The intention of this thread is to come up with do it yourself steps to replace a cracked prime screen. Replacement screens are easily available on ebay and cost about $100 USD.
Also the replacing should not be so tricky (once we know how) because there is no soldering or heat gun involved.
There have been a lot of teardown of prime's, but unfortunately none of them contain information on how to take out the glass + digitizer successfully.
I think here is how the prime screen is layered. In the front is the Gorilla glass. The second layer is the digitizer which is glued to the glass. The last layer is the LCD screen.
Here is an image of LCD panel of prime (Image from Anandtech teardown)
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Here is an image of how a replacement screen looks like
I have been able to perform the following steps so far..
1) Open prime (easy)
2) Unscrew 4 screws that hold the LED panel (easy)
3) Take off a few tapes (esp the yellow tape that holds the digitizer ribbon.
Steps I could not complete so far (hence speculating)
4) Pull off the LCD panel
5) Take off the two ends of the digitizer ribbon from the motherboard on the other half of prime. (unlatch the connector, and pull ribbon gently)
(at this point the Screen + Digitizer should be completely seperate from the rest of the body)
6) Take off the WIFI & WIFI + GPS plates from the top of the frame
7) Take the replacement screen, and put in the WIFI & WIFI + GPS plates
8) Place the LCD panel on the new replacement screen. Tape and screw in all 4 screws.
9) Connect both ends of the connector ribbon from digitizer to the motherboard
10) Make sure nothing is loose.
11) Attach both halves of the prime again
12) Turn on the tablet, and if screen comes on and you can interact with touch screen then we are done!
Sounds easy... it should have been easy too... just that I have not been able to figure out how to easily complete step 4 above.
Has anyone else been able to get past this step?
I will update this thread with any feedback provided and will mention your name in credits as well for sure.
Hopefully, once we can solve this, it should be much cheaper to fix cracked screens compared to RMA or third-party fixes.
EDIT : August 2nd
Thanks to 'Two Dogs', he found a recent thread where someone successfully replaced his prime screen. You need to have a shattered screen (like mine ) for his steps to work.
Look at the third last post on this thread
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1857530&p=71
The user has put in a lot of images as well.
So it's very doable!
really like the idea of this thread and what your doing here. I havent needed to take apart my prime yet and hopefully wont ever need to. good luck!
Yeah I agree. I've had this thing for a month and a half, and the screen already has 2 scratches and a rub mark that goes across the entire screen where (I guess) it rubs along the lower edge of the keyboard. The ridge between the keyboard and the trackpad. I'd love to be ble to replace it when it gets unbearable.
You need suction cup an heat gun or hair dryer an you must slowly heat all four corners and then you can remove old digitizer or cracked pieces of it. Its tricky but put it all back together is hard, because digitizer glass is so thin and fragile. Do not push it hard or it will crack.
I saw a movie on youtube for the original Transformer TF101.
I assume this is very similar.
For the TF101, the digitizer/glass was adhered to the lcd panel with 2-sided tape. He used an exacto knife and just inserted it between the two layers and went around the entire perimeter of the screen (think he had a heated one, but said a regular would work too. The heated one just slid through the tape better).
He made a mark on the blade of the knife so he would not insert it too far to risk damaging the ribbon cable (though your new screen should have the cables on them, so probably doesn't matter if you damage the old ones). Using the new replacement screen as a template, you should be able to mark your blade to get deep enough without getting too deep to risk damaging any components.
Here is a link to the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brcZLrocBio
Start about 2 minutes into the video to see how he got the glass off (the first 2 minutes discuss dis-assembly, which you have already done).
ccrobin said:
I saw a movie on youtube for the original Transformer TF101.
I assume this is very similar.
For the TF101, the digitizer/glass was adhered to the lcd panel with 2-sided tape. He used an exacto knife and just inserted it between the two layers and went around the entire perimeter of the screen (think he had a heated one, but said a regular would work too. The heated one just slid through the tape better).
He made a mark on the blade of the knife so he would not insert it too far to risk damaging the ribbon cable (though your new screen should have the cables on them, so probably doesn't matter if you damage the old ones). Using the new replacement screen as a template, you should be able to mark your blade to get deep enough without getting too deep to risk damaging any components.
Here is a link to the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brcZLrocBio
Start about 2 minutes into the video to see how he got the glass off (the first 2 minutes discuss dis-assembly, which you have already done).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
will open my prime again to test this theory over the weekend. Wish there was a youtube video though for 201.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
I'm interested in this, how do you open the prime to begin with?
I think i'll just buy a total screen replacement, about AU$120 on ebay, and just plonk the new one in, but I want to find out if i can easily open up the prime before i buy.
e: oh wait, that $120 product is simply the glass + digitizer. where do i go to find it for $70??
ee: nvm, i replaced 'prime' in my ebay search with tf201 and it found the cheaper one!
Related
Hello all,
I've done a search in this forum and only found one thread, but it wasn't clear to me how difficult it would be to replace the glass on my Note 2. There's a couple of YouTube videos that make it look somewhat easy... I dropped it today, and the glass is shattered all around. All the phone functions, including touch sensitivity, still work just fine.
I have absolutely no experience in replacing screens; do you guys recommend I go through insurance ($99), or try and replace it myself ($17 for a screen on ebay)? Also, how do I know if the digitizer is also broken?
Thanks!
Wow we both don't have good luck!
I just dropped my phone today as well, it fell out of my hand as I was getting out of the car but I thought it would be fine since it actually landed down my leg and onto my shoe, then onto the ground. I thought to myself "I hope I didn't scratch the glass!", but when I flipped it over the screen was completely shattered, no idea how.
I went through insurance last time I dropped my phone for $99, but that's because the display itself and not the glass was cracked, so if I go through insurance this time it will be cancelled after because I've files a claim twice. I did buy an Urban Armor Gear case for it right now so hopefully it won't break again.
Same issue for me though, just the glass is cracked, the touch screen still works perfectly. If I can replace the glass myself for $17 I'll go that route, but I'd like to hear from people who have done it or tried to do it.
---------- Post added at 02:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 PM ----------
Check out this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qhd5KwgopZo
I actually wussed out and ended up paying $99 for a replacement. Though the online videos make the screen replacement look somewhat easy, I was reading reviews of screen replacements for the Note 2 on Amazon, and a couple people damaged their digitizers trying to pry the screen off.. and ended up not getting insurance or a new screen . I don't have that kind of money to gamble with at this point.
Let me know if you are able to do it and how difficult it is. Just in case this sad situation occurs again.
tbns said:
I actually wussed out and ended up paying $99 for a replacement. Though the online videos make the screen replacement look somewhat easy, I was reading reviews of screen replacements for the Note 2 on Amazon, and a couple people damaged their digitizers trying to pry the screen off.. and ended up not getting insurance or a new screen . I don't have that kind of money to gamble with at this point.
Let me know if you are able to do it and how difficult it is. Just in case this sad situation occurs again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably do the same thing. I'm waiting for my case to come in so when I get my second and last refurb through Asurion I can put it right in.
I read that when the screen is cracked it makes it really difficult to remove it as it will be in lots of pieces. This is what mine looks like after a small drop to pavement.
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This is a good Video by le55ons on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxgZeb5QytM
I had an epic failure when I tried to replace glass on gs3. I used a heat gun. And ended up burning the LCD trying to heat the glue.
You have to be really patient and skilled. So worst case.... You waste 17 dollars
barrackOBAMA said:
I had an epic failure when I tried to replace glass on gs3. I used a heat gun. And ended up burning the LCD trying to heat the glue.
You have to be really patient and skilled. So worst case.... You waste 17 dollars
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought about that, but decided that since I didn't have a heat gun I'd either try it in the oven heating it to around 180, or just give in and go through insurance.
In in the same situation. Contemplating paying a repair shop to do it as it would be my second insurance claim.
Don't have experience on my note 2 but just replaced my wife's s3 glass. It shattered when she threw it at me and missed... Enough on that. Anyways watched a couple YouTube and did it myself. Turned out pretty good for never doing it before. Her screen was shattered. Here is what I did.
Things needed: hairdryer, utility knife, tweezers, small flathead screwdriver like the ones you use to fix eyeglasses, wd40, wipe cloth, 2mm double sided tape, about 2-3 house depending on how bad your screen is.
1. Order glass from amazon... Approx 12 bucks
2. Removed battery and backing
3. Used hair dryer on low to melt glue. I propped the hairdryer so it would blow on the screen constantly and still have both my hands free to work on glass.
4. Started in the spot where it was most shattered and used a utility knife to get out one of the small pieces along the side as my starting point.
5. Once I got the first piece out, I used the small screwdriver to go along and pry up the other pieces, using tweezers as needed for the small pieces.
Slowly work your way around phone. The small pieces were actually easier to take off than the bigger ones. Actually broke some of the big pieces trying to get them off. Need to be very patient here and make sure glue is melted while prying up. Also be careful to not dig to hard with screwdriver to get under glass or you may scratch, mark the lcd screen itself.
6. Once you get most if not all glass off, use WD40 and a cloth to wipe off left over glue. This really helps get glue residue off phone.
7. Wipe clean and tape along side and place on new glass.
Tip: before taping and placing new screen, put battery back in and start up phone. Line up and tape back/menu buttons. Did not do this the first time and they did not light up properly... Got cut off because was not aligned properly.
Total cost was around 15 for new glass and tape online. Noticed some minor nick marks from my screwdriver but cannot tell when screen is on. 98% happy with it and saved alot of money.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Before and after
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
yeah fixing the screen is not for the faint of heart..they have some powerful adhesive thats connected to ribbon cables on the bottom around the capacitive buttons and if not done correctly youll tear those off or damage them. youll need proper tools and such to do it. A friend of mine felt very confident about it and tried fixing my screen and destroyed it. I got lucky and my sister let me use her eligibility to get a new one and now I have a (very expensive) external battery charger =)
koreankabachy said:
Before and after
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you had any sensitivity issues?
Nope... Wife has been using with no issues. One tip... Make sure you tape/glue all around. If it is not securely down, you may have sensor issues. First time didn't tape properly and a corner of the glass was slightly up. This caused the touch screen to be unresponsive in that corner.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
hey guys
well about 7 days ago, after leaving my htc on charge i came back to a buggy lock screen(digitizer) issue! screen seemed like it didn't want to respond
was gutted, after work i decided to twrp recover my system, change kernel etc still didnt work :/ then downloaded a drawing app. to find that a vertical middle section of the screen wasn't responding as my phone is now out of warranty! it was either to ebay to sell it as faulty or to ebay to source parts lol. so i started hunting around and found this can be a common problem, the ribbon cable for the digitzer(which is located near the head phone port on the pcb can come loose! so next step meant only one thing DISASSEMBLE (gulp)
found this handy tutorial on you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90og2HFQUHU (sorry if its been linked before)
so with a window sucker and a guitar pick i slowing persuaded the back off the device(its fiddly but not too much of a nightmare!
i located all the screws and after fighting the copper heat shielding its now in parts
my issues now though, which if anyone can guide me would be awesome
firstly, i am in the uk(european model) i am unsure what screen i need, is it s sharp or a sony?
secondly there are 2 antenna adhesive tabs located on the reverse on the screen housing, one i assume is for wifi, other is gsm etc
the antenna tab is near the capacitive buttons, this is slightly damaged! my question, it looks like it has antenna tracks(can i replace with an adhesive without tracks?
i have add some picture(sorry if my terminology is wrong guy)
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hey guys, quick update i ordered the SHARP lcd last night, will attempt to repair it in the next few days
ebay link below(frame and LCD) UK seller: seems a reasonable price at £31.30, worth the gamble i think
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291107539349&ssPageName=ADME:LC:GB:3160
anyone have any advice about the antenna adhesive issue?
hey guys, quick update screen turned up this morning, will attempt to fit tonight(excited and apprehensive to).
anyway i have purchased some adhesive conductive tape to repair the antenna areas(picture above with arrows). i believe the tape is thin enough to fit correctly, will cut down to match the size needed for gsm antenna and wifi antenna. but it will need folding correctly to allow the ribbons cable to contact correctly.....
i have also purchased some double sided tape to allow me to secure the battery and rear housing. also may use it to hold the volume rocker and power button in place on the chassis
so its fingers and toes crossed lol and a hair dyer at the ready lol
will keep you all updated
new screen fitted all seems good antennas signal is good phew
took about 2 hours all in all....
few tips beware of the power button it will only fit one way!
masking tap to hold the volume rocker and power in place defiantly will make your life easier
few things to note, the ribbon cable connectors on the logic board(s) are very very fiddly to position and lock into place! just take a few minutes on each(make sure its aligned to)
the hot key buttons need to be exactly lined up, there are two dots/guides on the frame(easy to miss), keep all contracts clean from finger grease to.....
i also checked all the contact springing(not sure if that's there tech name lol) i positioned them so they would contact correctly on the back cover when refitted(these are for wifi/gps/nfc). then moving onto removing any old adhesive from the battery and back cover(make note of where the adhesive is along with size, space is tight, fitting new adhesive over old would be too crammed. only fit new adhesive where the old was located now the two halves of the phone need to be fitted back together, this was very straight forward and it clicked into place without any issues then using a hair dyer to get the unit warm, just to allow the adhesive to mold inside
(******have to admit i didn't pre-test the screen, bit of a newbie error******) lucky for me it powered on, no dead pixels
i have ran the following sequence: *#*#3424#*#* in the phones dial-er to test everything(from the screen/WiFi/blue-tooth/sensors etc) just so i could check that its been rebuilt correctly after this i installed CPU z and stability test v2.7(which stresses CPU and GPU under-load) i did this to test temperatures! unit ran for 30 minutes very warm, no problems, allowed it to cool to the touch.
phone looks like new and is currently running perfect i will update this thread if i find any issues
but for anyone wanting to try a screen/digitizer repair its defiantly worth the time and the gamble
Well, it's finally happened. One of the kids managed to break the LCD screen on their Nabi 2.
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I was not there when it happened. I don't know the exact details. The kids were at their grandparents' house, and all I got was "one of the kids threw it!" The kids have thrown, dropped, kicked their Nabis in the past.... so no, I just don't know....
There is already a thread with some pictures of a tear down of the device (see just beneath this), but it does not include any details on replacing the LCD screen and glass.
byohaserd said:
Ok...So here we go...Got it fully apart..Took some pics. Maybe you guys can see something else that I didn't but it looks as if adding in wireless charging would be rather simple...Other than that I didn't really see anything of interest...what are your thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So first thing I did was remove the bumper, flip the device over, and remove the four screws in the corner of the tablet.
I then inserted a small screw driver (no place in particular) in between the two halves of the casing. If you look closely you can see the halves are held together with little clips. I unclipped the first few by working my way around with the screw driver and then was able to remove the rest by hand.
Working my way around, removing the clips I noticed that there are a couple of ribbon cables running from the LCD & digitizer to the board on the back half. Be careful not to yank on these cables as it can easily damage the connectors on the board.
The LCD panel is held in place from the rear by large plastic tabs.
I decided instead of cutting off one of the clips to remove the glass and pull the LCD panel out the front. In hindsight, it may have been a bad idea. I ended up shattering the glass into millions of tiny pieces (some of which ended up in my hand). It was then I decided to put on some protective gloves (Like these!).
The glass was held in place with double-sided tape. Not unlike many cell phones I have repaired screens on before. I used a heat gun to to make the tape more pliable and used a suction cup to pull up on the edges, but in the end no dice....
Amazon has replacement LCD panels listed for around $35 as well as Digitizer/Glass sets for the same price.... If I make the purchase and do the repair I'll be sure to update this thread,
Sorry to hear about your luck, nice thread to bookmark. Can you provide link to screen replacement?
Looking at ordering something like these.
NABI 2 Digitizer/Glass Set
NABI 2 LCD Panel
SMcC2 said:
Looking at ordering something like these.
NABI 2 Digitizer/Glass Set
NABI 2 LCD Panel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice find did not know they sold it seperately.
Ordered the parts from the links in the previous post. The LCD works great, but unfortunately the Glass/Digitizer was DOA. I even hooked up the old one just to try and do a little trouble shooting and was actually able to get swipe to unlock and hit a few icons, whereas on the new one I got nothing. I have already RMA'd the glass and gotten a refund, so no complaints there. I ordered a new Glass/Digitizer from a seller in China a week ago, last I checked it was in San Francisco. I still plan on letting every one know how it goes.
I feel for you man, pulling out the glass on this thing was quite an arduous task.
The right ride, and bottom completely disintegrated in my hands up until the glue finally started giving out on me. Although, i spent more time cleaning up the left over glue than anything else.
I bought the same digitizer a month ago from the same seller listed, but due to scheduling conflicts with the owner of the tablet, I was not able to install it until tonight. Lo and behold, the part was DOA, and it's looking like I might have to eat the cost because of return policies. Such is life, I guess. I hope you have better luck than I have so far.
rex.torres said:
I feel for you man, pulling out the glass on this thing was quite an arduous task.
The right ride, and bottom completely disintegrated in my hands up until the glue finally started giving out on me. Although, i spent more time cleaning up the left over glue than anything else.
I bought the same digitizer a month ago from the same seller listed, but due to scheduling conflicts with the owner of the tablet, I was not able to install it until tonight. Lo and behold, the part was DOA, and it's looking like I might have to eat the cost because of return policies. Such is life, I guess. I hope you have better luck than I have so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is an old thread, I tried the new digitizer with one of the other kid's NABIs and it worked just fine. I don't remember the details, but there are different sub-versions of this tablet apparently.
I wonder if anyone else ever had any success. One of these devices was left in the sun and now the LCD is bleached.
not much luck
I've tried remove the LCD glass twice from these Nabi's and they are tricky. I used a heat gun but the adhesive their using is pretty strong and just won't give up the glass like some of the other devices I've taken apart.
Has anyone found a decent way to pull the LCD Glass away from the frame?
If you only need to replace the LCD, and not the digitizer, then you can open the unit, cut some or all of the plastic tabs behind the LCD, and remove it from the rear. It's not pretty, but the build is so tight, it shouldn't move around at all anyway. If you do need to replace the digitizer, best of luck to you buddy. That glass is a pain in the rear.
Also...
rex.torres said:
If you only need to replace the LCD, and not the digitizer, then you can open the unit, cut some or all of the plastic tabs behind the LCD, and remove it from the rear. It's not pretty, but the build is so tight, it shouldn't move around at all anyway. If you do need to replace the digitizer, best of luck to you buddy. That glass is a pain in the rear.
Also...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. the LCD is fine. The digitizer glass is the PITA. I tried using packing tape to keep glass bits in, but the heat gun tends to melt the tape and shrink it lol.
Heat, and a very thin piece of plastic. Small gauge guitar pick comes to mind. Once you can get it wedged in there, you'll be fine. Patience. Also, if i remember correctly, the digitizer and front glass are one unit.
It may be more practical to break it on purpose. Unfortunately, my repair was a bad LCD that was made worse by a botched glass removal, and then further worsened by the digitizer being the wrong revision for that nabi.
If you do try to remove the LCD panel from the rear, that may make it easier to wedge something in the inner frame from the rear to try to remove the glass / digitizer assembly rather than trying to wedge something from the outside at an angle..
Hi guys, I need a link for a Z3v disassembly video. I've searched extensively but only Z3 videos come up. Thanks in advance.
Aphex33 said:
Hi guys, I need a link for a Z3v disassembly video. I've searched extensively but only Z3 videos come up. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps you could try to look into Z2 dissamebly videos, because the Z3v body very closely resembles to the Z2 instead of the Z3. May I ask though, what are your intents and purposes with dissembling?
GigaSPX said:
Perhaps you could try to look into Z2 dissamebly videos, because the Z3v body very closely resembles to the Z2 instead of the Z3. May I ask though, what are your intents and purposes with dissembling?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have watched the Z2 disassembly video but the phones lower components are a bit different. I have a Z3v that needs a screen replacement. I was also hoping to install some thermal pads for cooling efficiency.
Pretty Much the Z2
clearionr said:
Any luck?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WARNING This post is long
I just opened up mine. (Back glass was cracked and audiojack had major problems.) and It is pretty much exactly just like the z2. You'll be able to manage no problem. I shot straight for the Audio jack which is just under the motherboard. You'll have to remove that no matter what you replace. However, some pointers.
1. REMOVE THE SD & SIM CARD SLOTS
2. Very tricky with the back glass panel. The adhesive on the rims of the phone comes off with ease with the help of a common hair dryer. But... there's is some kind of tape gel that is attached to the middle bottom half of the screen, attached to the battery. I had to grab a looong piece of plastic to gently coax the tape off. Pushing down on the battery and lifting the screen at the same time, slipping the tool gently in between. (If you've ever skinned an animal, it's allot like this)
Sadly, some of the black from the back of the screen remained on the tape. (Figure A) Don't get frustrated is what i have to say. Pull firmly, NEVER yank.
3. Don't forget that the NFC module is attached to the back glass. (Figure B & C) It's basically a sticker. Just peel it off gently and try not to bend it too much. And try to make the sticker fit exactly where it was on the old glass. There are some copper pokers that come into contact with it.
4. When trying to remove the battery, the wireless charging coil can stay attached to the battery. I almost mistakenly removed it.
5. Before removing the motherboard unscrew everything that you need to and gently disconnect all the connections. I found the camera, battery, main flex cable, antenna and audio jack. If you have removed the SD card and such, it should be loose. To remove the motherboard, you need to lift the side opposite of the micro USB connector first, then slide it out. The USB connector makes it so that the mother board can't be pulled up directly like in the Z2 video.
6. When removing the audio jack, there is a hole on the jack frame that was obviously meant to help you pull it out. It is stuck to the frame with some very strong water-proof adhesive. I just used a small screw driver that fit into the hole.
Well, that's all I needed. I din't want to go any further, but sadly if your front screen is cracked you'll have to remove EVERYTHING. The z2 video should be able to help you alot. When finished, clean, assemble, apply more heat (to the adhesive), then reseal the back glass with new adhesive. (You can find it on ebay) Clamp it for a bit to allow the adhesive to set and viola done.
I attached photos. But it's pretty much the Z2. :laugh: :good:
Astoras said:
WARNING This post is long
I just opened up mine. (Back glass was cracked and audiojack had major problems.) and It is pretty much exactly just like the z2. You'll be able to manage no problem. I shot straight for the Audio jack which is just under the motherboard. You'll have to remove that no matter what you replace. However, some pointers.
1. REMOVE THE SD & SIM CARD SLOTS
2. Very tricky with the back glass panel. The adhesive on the rims of the phone comes off with ease with the help of a common hair dryer. But... there's is some kind of tape gel that is attached to the middle bottom half of the screen, attached to the battery. I had to grab a looong piece of plastic to gently coax the tape off. Pushing down on the battery and lifting the screen at the same time, slipping the tool gently in between. (If you've ever skinned an animal, it's allot like this)
Sadly, some of the black from the back of the screen remained on the tape. (Figure A) Don't get frustrated is what i have to say. Pull firmly, NEVER yank.
3. Don't forget that the NFC module is attached to the back glass. (Figure B & C) It's basically a sticker. Just peel it off gently and try not to bend it too much. And try to make the sticker fit exactly where it was on the old glass. There are some copper pokers that come into contact with it.
4. When trying to remove the battery, the wireless charging coil can stay attached to the battery. I almost mistakenly removed it.
5. Before removing the motherboard unscrew everything that you need to and gently disconnect all the connections. I found the camera, battery, main flex cable, antenna and audio jack. If you have removed the SD card and such, it should be loose. To remove the motherboard, you need to lift the side opposite of the micro USB connector first, then slide it out. The USB connector makes it so that the mother board can't be pulled up directly like in the Z2 video.
6. When removing the audio jack, there is a hole on the jack frame that was obviously meant to help you pull it out. It is stuck to the frame with some very strong water-proof adhesive. I just used a small screw driver that fit into the hole.
Well, that's all I needed. I din't want to go any further, but sadly if your front screen is cracked you'll have to remove EVERYTHING. The z2 video should be able to help you alot. When finished, clean, assemble, apply more heat (to the adhesive), then reseal the back glass with new adhesive. (You can find it on ebay) Clamp it for a bit to allow the adhesive to set and viola done.
I attached photos. But it's pretty much the Z2. :laugh: :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the touch screen soldered to the LCD ? i want to buy this touch screen replacement(attachment), but i dont know if this has to be soldered or glued in any way to the LCD, i hope you can help me with this.
thanks
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sipermanight said:
Is the touch screen soldered to the LCD ? i want to buy this touch screen replacement(attachment), but i dont know if this has to be soldered or glued in any way to the LCD, i hope you can help me with this.
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I didn't go deep enough to see it. But if it's like the rest of the phone I'm betting it's sealed up very tight. I don't see a reason why Sony would want to weld it, but it's a good possibility.
However, I broke my back screen again (don't put metal headphones with your phone in a tight pocket.) I'm getting my replacement parts in about a week. I can check then if you're feeling really patient.
I recommend looking at the Z2 videos. Our screen most likely will be the same.
So I made the mistake of buying the book cover without sufficient research. I bought it used online, and didnt even understand the "adhesive/suction" part, which I ignored for 1 some weeks and used the cover upside down (which actually works, but forces the part that covers the pen. Not viable long term). When I discovered my mistake, I had trouble attaching it, but after cleaning with a slightly wet towel, and pressure, made it stay well stuck. for a few weeks. It slowly got weak on the corners, and there on. Then fell out yesterday. Couldn't reattach it back, falls off in minutes. Tried heating it with a hair dryer, but nothing changed. I'm trying to think about solutions, but none great.
1-Trying cleaning the glue/suction part with something like alcohol. It could work, or completely damage it. I prefer asking first.
2-Thought on removing the glue/section part and glue it with double-sided tape. Like the one used below PopSockets. Dont know the name. But that would make it go past Idea 1.
3-Thought on getting a magnetic case for only the back part, that folds like a triangle. Couldnt find one, and probably would be expensive. Im still paying the tablet.
Anyone had any success with this cover? I really like the keyboard part, and even the back part when it is working, but not making it magnetic seems like a giant oversight.
i had issues with the cover not staying there for longer than a few weeks
a while ago i removed the addhesive from the cover (very easy to remove. it just peels off) and replaced it with doublesided tape. i had to adjust it a few times (protipress the tab and the coverwith the buttom side (the one without any buttons) against a flat surface).
1. there is no gap between the cover and the tab anymore (the old addhesive layer was way thicker)
2. its really secure
3. its still removeable with a bit of force.
Caffeineshock said:
i had issues with the cover not staying there for longer than a few weeks
a while ago i removed the addhesive from the cover (very easy to remove. it just peels off) and replaced it with doublesided tape. i had to adjust it a few times (protipress the tab and the coverwith the buttom side (the one without any buttons) against a flat surface).
1. there is no gap between the cover and the tab anymore (the old addhesive layer was way thicker)
2. its really secure
3. its still removeable with a bit of force.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am trying this. The first adhesive tape didnt stay good, maybe it was the heat. will try to reapply it. If it fails again I will find a better tape.
which heat? the 2 watts from the cpu
i used expensive from tesa (very common in here in germany). did place it over the entire lenght and cut it with a know cause it was a little to wide. my holds rocksolid. it requeres violence to tear them apart
Caffeineshock said:
which heat? the 2 watts from the cpu
i used expensive from tesa (very common in here in germany). did place it over the entire lenght and cut it with a know cause it was a little to wide. my holds rocksolid. it requeres violence to tear them apart
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got a better tape. Didnt find Tesa though. Will update in about a month on if it worked.
good that you didn't try the "magnetic" option, because magnetic cover tend to interfere with the S-Pen.
The best option is to get a TPU bumper case such as this
TPU Case
Cut off the left edge to allow the keyboard to connect to it and then stick the back onto the TPU case. It sticks extremely well. I have had the back on for literally months and it has never fallen off. See my setup below. Just make sure to do a cleaner cut than I did for the keyboard. Should've used a straight edge. Oh, well it works.
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cbb77 said:
The best option is to get a TPU bumper case such as this
TPU Case
Cut off the left edge to allow the keyboard to connect to it and then stick the back onto the TPU case. It sticks extremely well. I have had the back on for literally months and it has never fallen off. See my setup below. Just make sure to do a cleaner cut than I did for the keyboard. Should've used a straight edge. Oh, well it works.
View attachment 5572233
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Click to collapse
you mean the worst?
such cases are cancer and feel like garbage. i never seen the point of buying an expensive devices with great materials and nice design... JUST TO PUT IT INTO A 5€ CONDOM that looks and feels just awfull
Haha, to each it's own. To me this protects the tab for scratches and dings. 2 1/2 years now and Tab still looks brand new without a scratch. I travel quite a bit with mine, so for me, this gives me some piece of mind about not having to worry about it getting damaged.
I did something similar but I bought a cheap magnetic case, cut away the crap like the part that folds round to cover the screen (which was also blocking me from connecting the keyboard), and superglued the official case onto the magnet case. Now it magnetically attaches and easily comes off when I want, without keep falling apart.
oscar42 said:
Got a better tape. Didnt find Tesa though. Will update in about a month on if it worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked, 3 weeks and not a sign of unattaching. Hope the case doesnt malfunction, it would be hard to remove it now without damaging the tablet.
my is till holding. i used tesa doublesided tape ont he full width of the tab. this will never come off in one piece. never.
if you used a good tape, you will expirience the same. my is still holding. could probably hold my entire weight