hey guys
well about 7 days ago, after leaving my htc on charge i came back to a buggy lock screen(digitizer) issue! screen seemed like it didn't want to respond
was gutted, after work i decided to twrp recover my system, change kernel etc still didnt work :/ then downloaded a drawing app. to find that a vertical middle section of the screen wasn't responding as my phone is now out of warranty! it was either to ebay to sell it as faulty or to ebay to source parts lol. so i started hunting around and found this can be a common problem, the ribbon cable for the digitzer(which is located near the head phone port on the pcb can come loose! so next step meant only one thing DISASSEMBLE (gulp)
found this handy tutorial on you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90og2HFQUHU (sorry if its been linked before)
so with a window sucker and a guitar pick i slowing persuaded the back off the device(its fiddly but not too much of a nightmare!
i located all the screws and after fighting the copper heat shielding its now in parts
my issues now though, which if anyone can guide me would be awesome
firstly, i am in the uk(european model) i am unsure what screen i need, is it s sharp or a sony?
secondly there are 2 antenna adhesive tabs located on the reverse on the screen housing, one i assume is for wifi, other is gsm etc
the antenna tab is near the capacitive buttons, this is slightly damaged! my question, it looks like it has antenna tracks(can i replace with an adhesive without tracks?
i have add some picture(sorry if my terminology is wrong guy)
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hey guys, quick update i ordered the SHARP lcd last night, will attempt to repair it in the next few days
ebay link below(frame and LCD) UK seller: seems a reasonable price at £31.30, worth the gamble i think
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291107539349&ssPageName=ADME:LC:GB:3160
anyone have any advice about the antenna adhesive issue?
hey guys, quick update screen turned up this morning, will attempt to fit tonight(excited and apprehensive to).
anyway i have purchased some adhesive conductive tape to repair the antenna areas(picture above with arrows). i believe the tape is thin enough to fit correctly, will cut down to match the size needed for gsm antenna and wifi antenna. but it will need folding correctly to allow the ribbons cable to contact correctly.....
i have also purchased some double sided tape to allow me to secure the battery and rear housing. also may use it to hold the volume rocker and power button in place on the chassis
so its fingers and toes crossed lol and a hair dyer at the ready lol
will keep you all updated
new screen fitted all seems good antennas signal is good phew
took about 2 hours all in all....
few tips beware of the power button it will only fit one way!
masking tap to hold the volume rocker and power in place defiantly will make your life easier
few things to note, the ribbon cable connectors on the logic board(s) are very very fiddly to position and lock into place! just take a few minutes on each(make sure its aligned to)
the hot key buttons need to be exactly lined up, there are two dots/guides on the frame(easy to miss), keep all contracts clean from finger grease to.....
i also checked all the contact springing(not sure if that's there tech name lol) i positioned them so they would contact correctly on the back cover when refitted(these are for wifi/gps/nfc). then moving onto removing any old adhesive from the battery and back cover(make note of where the adhesive is along with size, space is tight, fitting new adhesive over old would be too crammed. only fit new adhesive where the old was located now the two halves of the phone need to be fitted back together, this was very straight forward and it clicked into place without any issues then using a hair dyer to get the unit warm, just to allow the adhesive to mold inside
(******have to admit i didn't pre-test the screen, bit of a newbie error******) lucky for me it powered on, no dead pixels
i have ran the following sequence: *#*#3424#*#* in the phones dial-er to test everything(from the screen/WiFi/blue-tooth/sensors etc) just so i could check that its been rebuilt correctly after this i installed CPU z and stability test v2.7(which stresses CPU and GPU under-load) i did this to test temperatures! unit ran for 30 minutes very warm, no problems, allowed it to cool to the touch.
phone looks like new and is currently running perfect i will update this thread if i find any issues
but for anyone wanting to try a screen/digitizer repair its defiantly worth the time and the gamble
Related
This detailed take apart repair guide will show you on how to disassemble your HTC Radar 4G phone quickly and safely. Repair a damaged screen or other internal parts using this step by step repair guide.
This guide will help you install the following HTC Radar 4G parts:
HTC Radar 4G Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe open pry tool
Torx T5 Screwdriver
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips
Hair Dryer/Heat Gun
HTC Radar 4G Screen Repair Take Apart Guide:
First, remove the lower back cover by simply apply pressure down and away from the device.
There will be four (4) Torx T5 screws that will need to be removed, as shown in Figure 1.
Gently pry the inner back cover from the device using a safe open pry tool.
With the inner back cover removed, you will now have access to two (2) more torx screws and one (1) flex cable. Release the back side of the jaw clip and remove the small flex cable.
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Figure 1
The back housing can now be gently pried away from the rest of the device. Use a safe open pry tool to assist with this process.
With the back cover removed, you can now remove the battery.
Remove the five (5) T5 screws as shown in Figure 2. Remove the lower bar that the two lower screws were holding in place. The top cover can also be released using a safe open pry tool.
Release the two (2) wire connections on the motherboard and the two (2) pop connectors from the motherboard flex cable. The button flex will also have to be released from the housing as shown in Figure 2.
Figure 2
The motherboard can now be gently folded down and the last jaw connector can be released. The motherboard can now be removed.
The upper board will also need to be removed. It will be lightly clipped into place.
The screen assembly now needs to be separated.
You can now heat the front of the touch screen using a heat gun or hair dryer on medium hate. Use quick movements around the outside edges for about 45-60 seconds. Now, using a safe open pry tool, pry between the front housing and touch screen to release the adhesive holding it in place. Reheat the touch screen if necessary.
The touch screen flex cable will need to be fed through the housing, so be careful of damaging this when separating the screens. The LCD screen will just need to be pried out using a safe open pry tool.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
Here is how it looks practically
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qs_kfqCbuxY
this guide also counts for the standard HTC Radar right?
EaterOfCorpses said:
this guide also counts for the standard HTC Radar right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Its for the Radar.
Does radar have some standard HTC battery? I need to replace battery and need to know exact type.
Thanks!
Help!
So, trying to help out a neighbor friend and I took apart the phone without ANY problem. I couldn't get the original LCD screen to light up again (figured I broke it prying it out) so I bought a new one on ebay. Now, that one won't work. Note: I notice there are a lot of contacts on the phone, and I'm testing it prior to putting all the screws back in and everything. Any idea what may be wrong. I know it didn't 'break' anything (other than possibly the LCD) taking it apart - it was quite easy. Let me know if anyone has a though of something I may be missing or what else I should attempt.! ...and soon!
Thanks
Mnorto3
Do you carry the LCD Screen replacement for this model?
jake.mcgee said:
Do you carry the LCD Screen replacement for this model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes we do. A link to our site can be found in our signature below.
Has anyone noticed how the metal right under the glass that is the case for the charging port bends mine was warped a bit but I noticed I bent it back straight. I check more and noticed its caused by plugging in the charger into the Asus prime and if you move it back and forth it will bend the metal casing and could crack the screen is anyone else having this problem? I'll post a picture when I get home to show what's happening and what others should look out for. This could be really bad.
Yes, mine is bent down but I can bend it back up to insert the charger. Very weak piece of metal there.
same here.
me too.
I caught myself holding the TFP one handed with my thumb right over the charging port. I figured that is what caused the warping.
Mine came bent brand new out of the box.
Add me to the list of a bent case. Scared me half to death because what made me realize that the case was bent was because my screen looked like it popped out. Which made me immediately think that I would have to add myself to the "cracked screen thread." However, I was able to snap the screen back into place except for the part near the power port....which is when I noticed that the metal was bent up and in causing the screen to to snap back into place. So I did the best I could to re-position the metal and the screen seemed to snap back in (not as tight as the rest of the tablet).
Not sure how the metal got bent since I have never dropped it (knock on wood). I do keep it in my brief case, and there may be a possibility that it got jammed somehow (even though I have it in a nice case).
I think it just gets bent frm doing the one handed holding thing like me and a few others that i have read about on here or it could be because of bending the charger. More and more stuff i keep finding out crap. I love this device but man seems that no one tested the damn thing.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1500554
Aluminum is just so soft, it shouldn't be a surprise when a piece less than 1 MM thick gets bent. As you can see in the thread, I've even purposefully bent it, several times. Nothing is hurt by it. I don't think it will ultimately hurt the screen or anything, I suppose if you tried breaking your power cord off into it or something.
I haven't noticed it on mine but I keep the little plastic piece in it when its not on the charger to protect it from dust/damaging the port. I have a case so I don't even notice it being there when in use.
That's what i think too .
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Mine didn't crack from the charger but it gradually began to get bent since i keep 90% of the tablet docked to the keyboard. Even the rubber/padding in the dock is rubbing/melting off and sticking to the tablet. Yeah, I'm guilty of opening and closing the tablet like it was a laptop so which is why im sure it became like that.
I thought the port was cracked due to the keyboard was more of the problem than it is but it turns out its just the tablets fault. Thanks for the post, at least im not the only one.
Mine has cracked through.
I almost got a hearth attack when i first saw mi prime like that haha.
Then I looked a bit closer, and found out that the whole Prime was bent like a bow! including the screen. I just bent it back with little force and it is back like new. I'm extra careful now when applying any kind of pressure to the tablet.
I guess that's the price for having a whole Alu case... but I think the border of the tablet should be made of something way more resistant than just Alu.
I've had it bent since the day I bought the prime. Always thought it was an esthetics thing.
roccodaone said:
I've had it bent since the day I bought the prime. Always thought it was an esthetics thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Me too. Came that way out of the box. Figured it was meant to be that way since it was shipped like that.
I work at the Asus RMA repair center in grapevine TX pretty much exclusively on the tf101, tf201, 300t and sl101. I see these things bent above and around the charging port all the time. Hell, we have techs that bend it themselves when they are servicing the tablet. It's a bad design flaw.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app
The intention of this thread is to come up with do it yourself steps to replace a cracked prime screen. Replacement screens are easily available on ebay and cost about $100 USD.
Also the replacing should not be so tricky (once we know how) because there is no soldering or heat gun involved.
There have been a lot of teardown of prime's, but unfortunately none of them contain information on how to take out the glass + digitizer successfully.
I think here is how the prime screen is layered. In the front is the Gorilla glass. The second layer is the digitizer which is glued to the glass. The last layer is the LCD screen.
Here is an image of LCD panel of prime (Image from Anandtech teardown)
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Here is an image of how a replacement screen looks like
I have been able to perform the following steps so far..
1) Open prime (easy)
2) Unscrew 4 screws that hold the LED panel (easy)
3) Take off a few tapes (esp the yellow tape that holds the digitizer ribbon.
Steps I could not complete so far (hence speculating)
4) Pull off the LCD panel
5) Take off the two ends of the digitizer ribbon from the motherboard on the other half of prime. (unlatch the connector, and pull ribbon gently)
(at this point the Screen + Digitizer should be completely seperate from the rest of the body)
6) Take off the WIFI & WIFI + GPS plates from the top of the frame
7) Take the replacement screen, and put in the WIFI & WIFI + GPS plates
8) Place the LCD panel on the new replacement screen. Tape and screw in all 4 screws.
9) Connect both ends of the connector ribbon from digitizer to the motherboard
10) Make sure nothing is loose.
11) Attach both halves of the prime again
12) Turn on the tablet, and if screen comes on and you can interact with touch screen then we are done!
Sounds easy... it should have been easy too... just that I have not been able to figure out how to easily complete step 4 above.
Has anyone else been able to get past this step?
I will update this thread with any feedback provided and will mention your name in credits as well for sure.
Hopefully, once we can solve this, it should be much cheaper to fix cracked screens compared to RMA or third-party fixes.
EDIT : August 2nd
Thanks to 'Two Dogs', he found a recent thread where someone successfully replaced his prime screen. You need to have a shattered screen (like mine ) for his steps to work.
Look at the third last post on this thread
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1857530&p=71
The user has put in a lot of images as well.
So it's very doable!
really like the idea of this thread and what your doing here. I havent needed to take apart my prime yet and hopefully wont ever need to. good luck!
Yeah I agree. I've had this thing for a month and a half, and the screen already has 2 scratches and a rub mark that goes across the entire screen where (I guess) it rubs along the lower edge of the keyboard. The ridge between the keyboard and the trackpad. I'd love to be ble to replace it when it gets unbearable.
You need suction cup an heat gun or hair dryer an you must slowly heat all four corners and then you can remove old digitizer or cracked pieces of it. Its tricky but put it all back together is hard, because digitizer glass is so thin and fragile. Do not push it hard or it will crack.
I saw a movie on youtube for the original Transformer TF101.
I assume this is very similar.
For the TF101, the digitizer/glass was adhered to the lcd panel with 2-sided tape. He used an exacto knife and just inserted it between the two layers and went around the entire perimeter of the screen (think he had a heated one, but said a regular would work too. The heated one just slid through the tape better).
He made a mark on the blade of the knife so he would not insert it too far to risk damaging the ribbon cable (though your new screen should have the cables on them, so probably doesn't matter if you damage the old ones). Using the new replacement screen as a template, you should be able to mark your blade to get deep enough without getting too deep to risk damaging any components.
Here is a link to the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brcZLrocBio
Start about 2 minutes into the video to see how he got the glass off (the first 2 minutes discuss dis-assembly, which you have already done).
ccrobin said:
I saw a movie on youtube for the original Transformer TF101.
I assume this is very similar.
For the TF101, the digitizer/glass was adhered to the lcd panel with 2-sided tape. He used an exacto knife and just inserted it between the two layers and went around the entire perimeter of the screen (think he had a heated one, but said a regular would work too. The heated one just slid through the tape better).
He made a mark on the blade of the knife so he would not insert it too far to risk damaging the ribbon cable (though your new screen should have the cables on them, so probably doesn't matter if you damage the old ones). Using the new replacement screen as a template, you should be able to mark your blade to get deep enough without getting too deep to risk damaging any components.
Here is a link to the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brcZLrocBio
Start about 2 minutes into the video to see how he got the glass off (the first 2 minutes discuss dis-assembly, which you have already done).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
will open my prime again to test this theory over the weekend. Wish there was a youtube video though for 201.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
I'm interested in this, how do you open the prime to begin with?
I think i'll just buy a total screen replacement, about AU$120 on ebay, and just plonk the new one in, but I want to find out if i can easily open up the prime before i buy.
e: oh wait, that $120 product is simply the glass + digitizer. where do i go to find it for $70??
ee: nvm, i replaced 'prime' in my ebay search with tf201 and it found the cheaper one!
Hi, i'm running black-bean4 and cant get the sound through car dock. Tried the galaxy Audio redirector from play store which worked fine with ICS, but does not work with jelly bean. Please help!
Sent from my SGH-T959 using xda app-developers app
*Bump* JB dock audio
I have a similar issue, were you able to get yours working?
I have struggled with this on every ROM/Kernel I have run on my Vibrant. So much so that I feel like I'm the only one using it. I don't even care about GPS anymore since its so buggy. I recently moved from Fishmans BIONX v4 to paranoid android JB 2.54-360 (CM 10) on my Samsung Vibrant (t959). The stock semaphore kernel that came with that ROM didn't support dock audio. I loaded 3.0.55-semaphore_JB_2.6.5sv (thur dec 6 22:30:51 EET 2012, but this one doesn't seem to support it either. I even installed dock audio from xcaliburinhand to enable it, but no dice. I LOVE all the features I currently have in this ROM, just need to add dock audio and it would be perfect.
Anyone get this working on a JB rom?
Sent from my SGH-T959
I spent hours looking for a software solution to this problem. Eventually, I just gave up and did a hardware solution, which I am 'open-sourcing' for the benefit of the community It took me about thirty minutes.
Insert a razor blade in the long side of the back cover, and pry the back cover off:
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Work the back cover out, there are a bunch of those terrible plastic tab things:
You'll see five small screws in the back. Remove them. Grab a magnet off the refrigerator and stick the screws to it so they don't get lost.
Insert the razorblade at the top left corner, and work the front faceplate off. There are a bunch more of those plastic tab things along the bottom edge, it's the most challenging piece to remove:
If you break off the tabs on the bottom, don't sweat it. The screws will still hold everything together okay.
The USB connector is mounted on a plastic sled held on by two screws. Remove it, and pull it back and out of the way of where we'll be cutting.
(no picture of this step)
Cut away the top left corner of the dock, a square perhaps 5/16" on a side. If you want to prevent the plastic from getting marked up by errant saw cuts and the like, wrap the area around the cut in a few layers of masking tape, to give yourself a bit of warning before you start to cut into the dock. I didn't bother with that, you can see that the corner of the plastic got a bit marked up:
[Also, don't just grab your wood saw because it's nearby, use something more appropriate to the task like a dremel or hobby coping saw ]
Sand away the burrs and sharp edges. You can see that I didn't take my own advice about the refrigerator magnet, do as I say not as I do, I guess:
Reassemble. You still have all the parts, right?
The Result: You can now plug in the 1/8" jack directly to the phone, while still having the phone securely docked. Happily the phone and 1/8" audio connector tend to hide any damage you cause with the saw, so between that and the fact that it's all black plastic anyway, you wouldn't necessarily know a modification was made just by looking at it.
Additional remarks:
1. I brought this phone out of retirement in order to permanently put it on the dock and use it as a media player. If the phone is still your daily driver and you need to plug/unplug this getup several times a day, this probably isn't a good solution for you.
2. If you like to live dangerously, you can just cut away the corner without taking it apart and moving the electronics well out of the way. there's a screw that you would have to cut through before you cut into anything electronic, so there's a (very small) margin of error.
Hope it helps someone!
Mod Edit links removed
Thx for sharing, it's a helpful tutorial.:good:
Asennal said:
If the screen on your Huawei Honor 7 is cracked and it’s not under warranty, what you can do about it is either to live with it, get a new phone or take it to a professional repair store. However, either way isn’t the best. To use a phone with a cracked screen is really annoying, the cost of a new Huawei Honor 7 is too high and to get it repaired in the store costs much as well. To solve this problem, we will show you how to fix it yourself, the most economic way. Firstly, you need to buy a new Huawei Honor 7 screen online, which costs just around $45. And then, do it according to the following steps.
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Before the teardown, you are several necessary tools, Heat gun or Hair dryer, Philip screwdriver, Utility knife and adhesive tape.
How to replace a cracked Huawei Honor 7 screen
Step 1
Remove the SIM card, Micro SD card and SIM card slot, put them in a box in case of missing.
Release the small screw in the slot that fixes the bezel and the rear cover.
Step 2
Use you fingernail or a card to insert into the joint of the rear cover and bezel to release the buckle and remove the rear cover.
Put the rear cover aside. Let’s look at the most important part of the phone. The screws and flex cables we labeled in the picture are the ones that need to be removed.
Step 3
Before remove other components and install the new display replacement, we need to test the new display to make sure the new display works fine. So, firstly take the old display flex cable and buckle the display flex cable of the new display. Power on the phone and test the display and touch panel.
Step 4
After making sure the new display is fine, the next step is to remove the components at the top and bottom of the phone.
Then, we need to release the mother board. Here, you need to pay much attention to the flex cable we highlighted with a red circle. There is a tiny cover, you need to use your fingernail to lift it and then take the flex cable.
Open the cover and the mother board is free to go. Now the main parts are all disassembled.
Step 5
Use the heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the edges of the screen to soften the adhesive.
Use your Fingernail or tool to remove the broken screen.
Please note that you need to remove the earpiece mesh from the broken screen and install in on the new screen.
Step 6
Remove the old adhesive on the frame and put on the new adhesive.
Now, tear off the white tape on the adhesive and put the new screen on.
Step 7
At last, put the components back in the phone and buckle all the flex cables. Before installing the rear cover, test the functions of the phone to make sure it can work properly.
Install all the components
Test the phone
Install the rear cover
Install the SIM card and Micro SD card
Congratulations! You successfully fixed your Huawei Honor 7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would the process be the same if all I need to replace is the lens/glass? Or would it be almost the same with a few steps slightly different? The actual screen and digitizer are working fine (I'm typing this message on them now). It is just the top glass layer I need to replace.
Squall88uk said:
Would the process be the same if all I need to replace is the lens/glass? Or would it be almost the same with a few steps slightly different? The actual screen and digitizer are working fine (I'm typing this message on them now). It is just the top glass layer I need to replace.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my opinion, it would be almost the same, just a few slightly different. just the last replacement part different.
JerryPaul said:
In my opinion, it would be almost the same, just a few slightly different. just the last replacement part different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I decided that I can't be bothered messing around trying to do it and I can't find anywhere near me that will do it either because they can't get the needed part (even though I said I know where to get it) and don't know how to do it for this particular model. I'm just gonna use it as my excuse to finally get myself the Nexus 6P :laugh:
Sent from my PLK-L01 using XDA Labs