Hi, i'm running black-bean4 and cant get the sound through car dock. Tried the galaxy Audio redirector from play store which worked fine with ICS, but does not work with jelly bean. Please help!
Sent from my SGH-T959 using xda app-developers app
*Bump* JB dock audio
I have a similar issue, were you able to get yours working?
I have struggled with this on every ROM/Kernel I have run on my Vibrant. So much so that I feel like I'm the only one using it. I don't even care about GPS anymore since its so buggy. I recently moved from Fishmans BIONX v4 to paranoid android JB 2.54-360 (CM 10) on my Samsung Vibrant (t959). The stock semaphore kernel that came with that ROM didn't support dock audio. I loaded 3.0.55-semaphore_JB_2.6.5sv (thur dec 6 22:30:51 EET 2012, but this one doesn't seem to support it either. I even installed dock audio from xcaliburinhand to enable it, but no dice. I LOVE all the features I currently have in this ROM, just need to add dock audio and it would be perfect.
Anyone get this working on a JB rom?
Sent from my SGH-T959
I spent hours looking for a software solution to this problem. Eventually, I just gave up and did a hardware solution, which I am 'open-sourcing' for the benefit of the community It took me about thirty minutes.
Insert a razor blade in the long side of the back cover, and pry the back cover off:
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Work the back cover out, there are a bunch of those terrible plastic tab things:
You'll see five small screws in the back. Remove them. Grab a magnet off the refrigerator and stick the screws to it so they don't get lost.
Insert the razorblade at the top left corner, and work the front faceplate off. There are a bunch more of those plastic tab things along the bottom edge, it's the most challenging piece to remove:
If you break off the tabs on the bottom, don't sweat it. The screws will still hold everything together okay.
The USB connector is mounted on a plastic sled held on by two screws. Remove it, and pull it back and out of the way of where we'll be cutting.
(no picture of this step)
Cut away the top left corner of the dock, a square perhaps 5/16" on a side. If you want to prevent the plastic from getting marked up by errant saw cuts and the like, wrap the area around the cut in a few layers of masking tape, to give yourself a bit of warning before you start to cut into the dock. I didn't bother with that, you can see that the corner of the plastic got a bit marked up:
[Also, don't just grab your wood saw because it's nearby, use something more appropriate to the task like a dremel or hobby coping saw ]
Sand away the burrs and sharp edges. You can see that I didn't take my own advice about the refrigerator magnet, do as I say not as I do, I guess:
Reassemble. You still have all the parts, right?
The Result: You can now plug in the 1/8" jack directly to the phone, while still having the phone securely docked. Happily the phone and 1/8" audio connector tend to hide any damage you cause with the saw, so between that and the fact that it's all black plastic anyway, you wouldn't necessarily know a modification was made just by looking at it.
Additional remarks:
1. I brought this phone out of retirement in order to permanently put it on the dock and use it as a media player. If the phone is still your daily driver and you need to plug/unplug this getup several times a day, this probably isn't a good solution for you.
2. If you like to live dangerously, you can just cut away the corner without taking it apart and moving the electronics well out of the way. there's a screw that you would have to cut through before you cut into anything electronic, so there's a (very small) margin of error.
Hope it helps someone!
Related
Just a quick post to show the results of my first attempt at a smart cover-like 'case' for my grab using some 1/2" tubing, card stock, magnets and fabric. A more complete instructions will be posted on my blog later this week. I'll edit with a link when its up.
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Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Nice work. I will be anxious to see your write up on this one.
Wow! You must be good with a sewing machine. That looks almost good enough to be an OEM accessory. Are you going to provide plans/instructions or are you going to make these to sell?
Thanks guys. I will be providing instructions, dimensions, anything else I can to help. I think I can get the hinge side working with magnets like the clasp side is now. New revision and both write ups should come this weekend.
While I have it open I'm going to see if adding a magnetic on/off is feasible.
Looks nice. I may try to make one too. Check this app for auto sleep: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=978068
or
https://market.android.com/details?id=fahrbot.apps.killswitch
I have killswitch installed but even setting sensitivity to 1% I still get some false triggers which wouldnt be too bad if the 'delay before dialog' worked. It comes up immediately no matter what delay I select.
Maybe pm ftgg99 who started that other thread on it. Looked like some people had it working on gTab's.
I am thinking about ordering some small magnets to play around with making a cover like this. http_www_amazon_com/Disc-Package-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets/dp/B000LZIOZC/
Yup, small neodymiums. I tried putting metal shims inside and magnets in the cover but the metal had to be trimmed so narrow to fit with the case closed that the bond was weaker than what would be required. I am going to open it up again tonight and try to fit the magnets on the inside. That way I can use the entire width of the hinge to increase thee surface are of contact, should be plenty strong. It will also make for a cleaner appearance.
I haven't opened mine yet. Is there much space inside on that edge? The magnets i got are 1/8" x 1/16" or about 3mmx1.5mm
How does it attach to the G-Tab?
Will it stand up in the higher angle mode?
katmandu421 said:
Thanks guys. I will be providing instructions, dimensions, anything else I can to help. I think I can get the hinge side working with magnets like the clasp side is now. New revision and both write ups should come this weekend.
While I have it open I'm going to see if adding a magnetic on/off is feasible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was planning on doing this... now I'll let you do the research and see how it pans out. Great work!
Subscribed.
Looks great so far!
smalis said:
How does it attach to the G-Tab?
Will it stand up in the higher angle mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It attaches with the tubing. I cut it down the middle.
It should stand in the higher angle mode but I need to adjust the spacing of the cover panels.
Is there any update on this cover? It looks pretty sweet.
I was able to embed a 2 magnets in the case. I had to shave them down a bit and it was a tight fit, but it closed up pretty good. I tested placing metal strips in the cover but needed the strength of additional magnets in the cover (obviously paying attention to polarity with relation to the tablet magnets). If you plan it right it will only go on one way. It is pretty secure for most uses, but it still does not hold the entire weight of the tablet. I was hoping it could hang on a metal surface but there is no way I would trust it. Any bump and it would be on the ground.
Bump, come on, I would love something like this. Stop holding onto your secrets!
Have you considered using the dock connector instead of magnets to secure the cover to the tablet?
Progress?
Where are the instructions? I reeeeeeeeeeeealllllllllllllllllyyyyyyyyyyyyy want to do this.
Instructions??
When are the instructions coming??
Keen as to make it.
Hey, where are the instructions
So many people make these nice devices and promise us instrcutions but don't deliver
(hoping to get some sympathy lol)
Please post the isntructions.
Thanks,
Scott
Ok i have a quick question about the Galaxy 5.0. My question is how to take it apart if i ever have any issues (repairs)? I own alot of electronics so its just in my nature to know how to take things apart "IF THEY NEED TO BE". I am a proud galaxy owner but just like any other mp3 such as the ipod touch we may come across disassembling. So any info would be helpful but video would solve my question.
First, take out the SD card and unplug it from everything obviously.
There's 3 screws around the top and bottom. Two are under little white stickers, one is in the SD slot. If you carefully lift the stickers off with a razor blade you can put them back where they were.
Once you have the screws out, the back cover snaps off but it's pretty difficult. I usually work the plastic clips around the edge with my thumbnails. I start on the long sides of it, then move to the top, then the top corners. Once you pop the top end off, then work down to the bottom end while watching out for the headphone and usb ports.
The corners are pretty difficult to get undone, especially without a screwdriver.
Reinstalling the back cover is cake though, snap it together and 3 screws back in. Gotta pay attention to the headphone jack though, and there's a little chrome trim ring that goes around the headphone jack that sits in the back of the cover that you wanna make sure you don't lose.
It's really not difficult at all, just be patient with it.
I Can't tell if these are USA or International version. Hope it helps.
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More from here...
http://imgur.com/a/30Jjv
_______________________________________
- Sent from Mobile using Tapatalk
thanks for the help you guys very much appreciated
Have you noticed the little noises the cover makes? Mine has little popping sounds when I push on the back or just handle it.
Sent from my YP-G70 using XDA
How to take off the plastic casing surrounding the screen
No matter how much I look at the screen is cannot find a way to get the casing off the screen can any Please help my bottom touch screen buttons will not work I have not a clue how it happened I was using it playing a game and when I tried to exit the game and I couldn't I am running cyanogenmod 10.1 on my yp-g50 us variant out of options and if I can't get an answer anyone know where I can get a screen.
skcitzo said:
No matter how much I look at the screen is cannot find a way to get the casing off the screen can any Please help my bottom touch screen buttons will not work I have not a clue how it happened I was using it playing a game and when I tried to exit the game and I couldn't I am running cyanogenmod 10.1 on my yp-g50 us variant out of options and if I can't get an answer anyone know where I can get a screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is just to clarify, the screen is working, it is the capacitive buttons at the bottom (back home and menu) that are broken correct?
If yes then there are a few easy solutions
Use pacman rom/aokp/paranoid android rom and enable soft buttons (all three are variants of cyanogenmod with extra features.)
download from the play store a app that enables soft buttons
either way allows you to use software buttons instead of the capacitive ones, provided your touch screen works.
The idea was to have a more ergonomic experience while reading off the Nook by using a wire with two buttons on one end and some kind of plug at the other to connect it to the Nook. Since using the USB would mean battery drain and having to run/stop some applications (like the fantastic USB mode by Renate), I tried connecting the hardware buttons directly. Thanks to dkuku and his dead motherboard I was able to do that. Here's how:
1. Locating the connection points. My Nook motherboard has a label layer with all the test points numbered. The interesting ones are:
T314 - common for all four hardware buttons on the sides
T309 - bottom left button
T310 - top right
T311 - top left
T312 - bottom right
I always hold the Nook in my left hand, so I remapped the right hand side buttons to Menu and Back. Therefore I decided to extend just the two left buttons.
2. The plug. I could not find a proper socket/plug pair small enough to fit into the Nook so I built my own. To avoid mechanical damages I decided to use small neodymium magnets as contacts. You can buy them online. I found some small ones - 2mm in diameter, 1mm thick. To make a plug and socket for two buttons we need 6 of them. To arrange them into identical patterns on the Nook face and in the plug itself I used 3 spent ballpoint cartridges that happened to be exactly 2mm wide inside so that the magnets would fit and the body of an automatic pencil that was just big enough to hold them together:
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The spaces between the cartridges were filled with epoxy. Then the sausage was cut into slices - about 2mm thick for the plug and 3mm for the socket. Then the magnets were pushed inside so that they would stick out a fraction of a milimeter.
Magnets cannot be soldered - they will lose their magnetic properties above certain temperature. Conductive glue must be used. I bought a small set for fixing rear window defrosters - a mixture of glue and silver filings. A drop into each tube holding a magnet will do. Then I covered the back of the socket/plug with epoxy to protect the more fragile conductive glue.
I decided to put the socket in the bottom right corner of the Nook frame - partly because I hold it with my left hand so that seemed natural, partly because it would fit in a small air pocket on the reverse side (I had to remove some of the little plastic reinforcing "walls") :
The extension buttons are prototypes - I'm still looking for some that would have the proper feel:
They fit quite nice, although the plug still needs some filing and painting:
The trick was not to put all magnets facing the same poles up so you can only fit the plug one way. Everything works smooth. The lazy reading is best, hands down
That's pretty nice.
My Nook Touch doesn't have any test points labelled.
Interesting perversion. =) I'd take the slimmer wires for internal mounting.
hey guys
well about 7 days ago, after leaving my htc on charge i came back to a buggy lock screen(digitizer) issue! screen seemed like it didn't want to respond
was gutted, after work i decided to twrp recover my system, change kernel etc still didnt work :/ then downloaded a drawing app. to find that a vertical middle section of the screen wasn't responding as my phone is now out of warranty! it was either to ebay to sell it as faulty or to ebay to source parts lol. so i started hunting around and found this can be a common problem, the ribbon cable for the digitzer(which is located near the head phone port on the pcb can come loose! so next step meant only one thing DISASSEMBLE (gulp)
found this handy tutorial on you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90og2HFQUHU (sorry if its been linked before)
so with a window sucker and a guitar pick i slowing persuaded the back off the device(its fiddly but not too much of a nightmare!
i located all the screws and after fighting the copper heat shielding its now in parts
my issues now though, which if anyone can guide me would be awesome
firstly, i am in the uk(european model) i am unsure what screen i need, is it s sharp or a sony?
secondly there are 2 antenna adhesive tabs located on the reverse on the screen housing, one i assume is for wifi, other is gsm etc
the antenna tab is near the capacitive buttons, this is slightly damaged! my question, it looks like it has antenna tracks(can i replace with an adhesive without tracks?
i have add some picture(sorry if my terminology is wrong guy)
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hey guys, quick update i ordered the SHARP lcd last night, will attempt to repair it in the next few days
ebay link below(frame and LCD) UK seller: seems a reasonable price at £31.30, worth the gamble i think
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291107539349&ssPageName=ADME:LC:GB:3160
anyone have any advice about the antenna adhesive issue?
hey guys, quick update screen turned up this morning, will attempt to fit tonight(excited and apprehensive to).
anyway i have purchased some adhesive conductive tape to repair the antenna areas(picture above with arrows). i believe the tape is thin enough to fit correctly, will cut down to match the size needed for gsm antenna and wifi antenna. but it will need folding correctly to allow the ribbons cable to contact correctly.....
i have also purchased some double sided tape to allow me to secure the battery and rear housing. also may use it to hold the volume rocker and power button in place on the chassis
so its fingers and toes crossed lol and a hair dyer at the ready lol
will keep you all updated
new screen fitted all seems good antennas signal is good phew
took about 2 hours all in all....
few tips beware of the power button it will only fit one way!
masking tap to hold the volume rocker and power in place defiantly will make your life easier
few things to note, the ribbon cable connectors on the logic board(s) are very very fiddly to position and lock into place! just take a few minutes on each(make sure its aligned to)
the hot key buttons need to be exactly lined up, there are two dots/guides on the frame(easy to miss), keep all contracts clean from finger grease to.....
i also checked all the contact springing(not sure if that's there tech name lol) i positioned them so they would contact correctly on the back cover when refitted(these are for wifi/gps/nfc). then moving onto removing any old adhesive from the battery and back cover(make note of where the adhesive is along with size, space is tight, fitting new adhesive over old would be too crammed. only fit new adhesive where the old was located now the two halves of the phone need to be fitted back together, this was very straight forward and it clicked into place without any issues then using a hair dyer to get the unit warm, just to allow the adhesive to mold inside
(******have to admit i didn't pre-test the screen, bit of a newbie error******) lucky for me it powered on, no dead pixels
i have ran the following sequence: *#*#3424#*#* in the phones dial-er to test everything(from the screen/WiFi/blue-tooth/sensors etc) just so i could check that its been rebuilt correctly after this i installed CPU z and stability test v2.7(which stresses CPU and GPU under-load) i did this to test temperatures! unit ran for 30 minutes very warm, no problems, allowed it to cool to the touch.
phone looks like new and is currently running perfect i will update this thread if i find any issues
but for anyone wanting to try a screen/digitizer repair its defiantly worth the time and the gamble
I know I'm not the first to do this, but I don't think anyone has done any kind of step-by-step.
First thing I did was turn the Nabi off to be sure I didn't hit any buttons while I was working.
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After I made sure the device was off
I flipped the device over, removed the protective bumper, and found a small screwdriver.
Remove the six screws holding the grid square panel in place.
Select a material to use for the replacement rear cover. I chose a white lid from a RubberMaid container.
I then traced the grid square panel on the lid with an Xacto knife.
I made my first attempt with a cutting wheel on a Dremel, but it melted the plastic and made the edges too rough.
For the rest of my cutouts I just used the Xacto knife, tracing the lines over and over until it cut through.
I then placed the square grid panel on top of the cutout, marked the holes with a fine tip Sharpie, drilled the holes out with a small drill bit, and rounded out one side of the holes with a round tipped bit on my Dremel.
I then screwed the new rear panels on and decorated them for the kids with some paint markers. (Orange and Black were the only colors I had...)
Other users have used this method in the past to attach velcro straps to the back of their Nabis to use for children in the car.
katinatez said:
After purchasing multiple car seat dvd players to entertain my children on long trips, but only last 3-6 months because of lousy materials. The last straw was the RCA DVD player from Target lasted 2 months; every bump and pothole the DVD would skip or jump or all together stop playing.
I decided to find a permanent fix since we are heading on a 5 hour trip. I then looked toward the Nabi and since I have two of them and two kids I tried a few attempts to mount the Nabi to the car seat but found a better solution that turned out to be free. And here are some pictures.
I took a DVD case and cut it to dimensions and drilled 6 holes to screw back in with two slots for velcro straps I removed from previous car seat dvd player. The pictures are self explanatory.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Feel free to post your own rear panel mods in this thread!
New Rear Panel Mod!
Hey guys, was trying to think of something new/different to try with my Nabis last night while not working at work.... came up with this. I didn't pour my heart and soul in to it, it was more of a proof of concept.
I followed the same instructions for cutting out a new rear panel, but then cut out the middle (slightly less than half an inch inward on all sides).
Spray painted.
Cut a piece of plexiglass slightly larger than the hole in the new panel from an old plastic picture frame. (For this I found it was better to use the Dremel than a utility knife or Xacto knife. Using a knife caused the plastic to crack.)
Super glued the two together.
Printed a picture from the computer. (Dimensions for printed image were 5.25 side to side and 2.75 top to bottom, not that it matters how exact you are... the frame covers it up. )
Put back together. (Be careful not to scratch the plastic with your screwdriver)
TA-DA!!!
That's very creative. I like that. Now make the nabi look somewhat like a steering wheel and that would be cool for driving games.
New ideas!
Don't have the money to spend on random little things I'm just going to cut apart right now, although who doesn't love taking things apart?!
So I sketched these in paint really quick.
If anyone has any other ideas please share!
And if you like the ideas hit me with a thumbs up! :good: