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i bought two extra usb cables from amazon, i can't link to them since i don't have enough posts yet, but they're the "EMPIRE USB Data Cable for Verizon HTC ThunderBolt" from amazon
i intentionally looked for some that said for use with thunderbolt in case there was something different than just a micro-usb cable; however, it does not seem that these cables charge as well as the cable that ships. it takes several hours even when trying to charge with the original AC adapter using one of these cables vs the ~1.5-2 hours with the cable that comes with. When trying to use a computer or a car adapter it just holds the charge steady, if using navigation it actually drops battery while plugged in!
is there something i'm missing here? they should all be the same right? can anyone point me to some that actually work? (preferably from amazon since i have gift cards there)
I've had the same problem.
Make sure you are getting the correct voltage. I think my issues are that USB is a slower charge than outlets and the "extra" charger I had was for my bluetooth which had a lower voltage.
strobieone said:
I've had the same problem.
Make sure you are getting the correct voltage. I think my issues are that USB is a slower charge than outlets and the "extra" charger I had was for my bluetooth which had a lower voltage.
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yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
roppetty said:
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
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Click to collapse
You should never use any other cable than the one provided with your Thunderbolt. On the site it may say that it "Works" with the Thunderbolt but that doesn't mean you are going to get the performance you need out of it. I have had that problem plenty of times with older cables and sadly it keeps me buying the slightly overpriced cables from Verizon so I know that I get what I need.
roppetty said:
yeah, i understand that usb from the computer will be a lower voltage, which is what i thought the issue was at first. but then i tried using the original AC adapter with the replacement usb cable and it was slower than the original cable. i don't see why the cable would make a difference, but it definitely appears to.
i downloaded the current widget and can see that just swapping between the OEM cable and the aftermarket cable the charging current is quite different. ~+600ma with the OEM and -100ma to +300ma with the aftermarket (yes at times it was LOSING charge while plugged in using the aftermarket)
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Click to collapse
It sounds like a defective cable. Check to see how it's charging (AC or USB). If it says USB when connected to the HTC charger, the cable is bad.
I use micro-USB cables I got from Monoprice, no problems.
mike.s said:
It sounds like a defective cable. Check to see how it's charging (AC or USB). If it says USB when connected to the HTC charger, the cable is bad.
I use micro-USB cables I got from Monoprice, no problems.
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It's not defective, it's just not designed for charging. OP, always make sure it says it is a charger cable, not a data cable, when you buy one.
WeaselWeaz said:
It's not defective, it's just not designed for charging.
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BS. You have no clue what you're talking about. The TB follows the USB charging specification.
The thing about USB (Universal serial bus) cables is that they are UNIVERSAL. It doesn't matter where you get them from, what they say, or what they are branded. They have to meet certain specs (including materials and current capacity) in order to get the USB label.
If you're having a problem, I am 99% sure the cable is not the issue.
Try out monoprice.com. I've used them for years. You can get 3 wall chargers, 5 USB cables and 2 car chargers (all 1A) for like $25, shipped.
Edit: QFT
mike.s said:
BS. You have no clue what you're talking about. The TB follows the USB charging specification.
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necosino said:
The thing about USB (Universal serial bus) cables is that they are UNIVERSAL. It doesn't matter where you get them from, what they say, or what they are branded. They have to meet certain specs (including materials and current capacity) in order to get the USB label.
If you're having a problem, I am 99% sure the cable is not the issue.
Try out monoprice.com. I've used them for years. You can get 3 wall chargers, 5 USB cables and 2 car chargers (all 1A) for like $25, shipped.
Edit: QFT
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yeah, i'm with you, that's why i posed to see if there was something i'm missing and didn't know about. i'm a computer engineer so i know a cable is a cable is a cable, which is why i was like wtf when these didn't work the same.
thanks all, at least i know i didn't miss something and these should work the same.
ive had this problem on every phone. takes forever to charge through usb.
A USB cable is a USB cable is a USB cable is a USB cable.
If you are doing seat of your pants checks on charging, etc, they are never going to be accurate. CPU usage, network usage, etc while the phone is charging will affect how quickly it does charge. The stock charger provides 1000mA to charge the device, if you are using it, or another app is doing something (downloading data, using cpu, etc) it will not charge as quickly because power is being drained as it is being charged.
There is too much that would cause a slower charge state that you can't compensate for by a seat of the pants judgement on charging.
Its all about the mA.
No, thats not a storm. Its just my Thunderbolt layin down this post.
I have the same issue. I have tried four different usb cables with the oem charger and only two charge normally, the oem and one that I had with an old phone that I put a mini to micro adapter on to fit. The other two, one actually micro one mini to micro adapted, charge extremely slow. Yes a cable is a cable, but given I use the oem charger, the only differing things are the cables.
For what it's worth, I hate to burst your bubbles but not all USB cables are equal. And, in fact, not all phones are optimized for USB cables. Just because a cable looks like a USB cable and works as a USB cable doesn't mean that it is ONLY a USB cable. There are quite a few devices out there that can be charged (albeit slowly) with a USB cable but can be charged quickly with a cable that you only think is a USB cable. Take the Nook Color, for instance. The cable that it comes with looks like a USB cable on all accounts, but it's not. I forget which (both are techniques currently used) but either it has extra pins or has a data pin repurposed to provide additional power so it can charge faster. There are quite a few devices out there that are like this, and it seems like the number of these devices just keep growing and growing.
Now these "non-USB" devices still support USB standards, and can be charged via USB standard cables. However, they are optimized for non-USB standards and charge faster with these non-USB cables.
I'm honestly not sure if our Thunderbolts are such a device or not, and if the cables that they come with are such cables. They very well could be, and what the OP claims goes along with that theory. But honestly, I simply do not know.
EDIT:
Oh, and one more example. Go take a look at the custom "USB" cables that Team Blackhat had made that can power Motorola devices in CWM without a battery in the device. This is yet another example of where a USB cable isn't a USB cable.
Having the data pins connected to 5v sources is part of the charger itself; it has nothing to do with the cable.
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v- if the second + and - aren't connected to a source in the charger, you will only get a 0.5A charge, and it will go slow. If the charger DOES have them connected, you get the full 1A, and a much faster charge.
If the charger or cable is anything different then it is not USB. End of story. I know some phones have extra pins in the USB location for video out, for example, but those don't interfere with the standard USB pins.
Sent from my ThunderBolt using Tapatalk
necosino said:
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v-
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Wrong, kinda. Check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nook_Color#USB_port
The Nook Color uses a modified connector with two depths. The first depth is compatible with micro-usb (5-conductor), while the second depth has 12 conductors. This change was made to increase the amount of power available to charge the larger battery of the Nook Color when using the included cable.
Because of this, the USB cable included with the Nook Color is physically incompatible with other devices employing standard micro-usb connectors. However, the Nook Color itself is physically compatible with standard micro-usb cords.
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Now I realize that calling this a "USB Cable" might be stretching the definition of "USB Cable" (hence the "wrong, kinda" comment) but more than likely, most people have no clue that one cable is different than another, so the end result is that, for all practical purposes, we DO have different types of USB cables.
necosino said:
Every USB cable has 4 pins: two 5v+, a gnd and a 5v- if the second + and - aren't connected to a source in the charger, you will only get a 0.5A charge, and it will go slow. If the charger DOES have them connected, you get the full 1A, and a much faster charge.
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Click to collapse
Close, but not quite.
The pins are +5, Ground, +D and -D. All power is drawn through the +5 and Ground lines. The D lines are used for data transfer.
Per the USB specifications, a device can only draw 100 mA without enumerating (negotiating via USB, implies both ends have "intelligence"). If it can enumerate, it can negotiate for up to 500 mA (e.g. plugged into a PC which has a "driver" which recognizes the phone).
There are also specifications for DCPs (Dedicated Charging Ports). For these, the D+ and D- pins (the center two in a full sized USB connector) on the charger must be connected together with no more than 200 Ohms. These ports must provide at least 500 mA, but can provide more (micro-USB connectors are rated to 1.8 A). That's how the phone knows it can draw more than 100 mA from a "dumb" power adapter.
The TB follows the USB charging spec. Here are some things that can happen.
If it's plugged into a charger which doesn't follow the USB spec (D+ and D- not connected together, these are fairly common), it can only draw 100 mA. It doesn't matter if you bought a "2.5 Amp USB charger," if the charger doesn't follow the spec, a device which does isn't supposed to draw more than 100 mA. That's enough to charge it very slowly when the screen is off and it's idling. If the phone is doing anything, the battery will actually be discharging. This is a problem which seems to be common with many car chargers. A lot of device will ignore the 100 mA spec limit, and draw whatever they can, which is why they will charge from an improper adapter.
It's plugged into a PC with no driver - same thing.
It's plugged into a PC with a driver - it can negotiate and pull 500 mA. This is enough to charge while running in almost all cases (it might be on the edge if streaming video via 4G with GPS on, etc.) It will charge, but not as fast as it could.
For all of the above, a TB will show "USB" as the charging type.
It's plugged into a USB DCP. By spec, these must be able to deliver at least 500 mA. The AC adapter shipped with the TB is marked 1.0 A, and the phone won't draw more than 1.0 A (the most I've seen it use to charge the battery is ~800 mA). This will allows the fastest charging. With a DCP, the TB will show "AC" as the charging type.
Cables can have the same effect - all USB cables are supposed to be basically the same. But, some manufacturer's play loose with the spec. They may have "USB" cables with resistors or other changes inside which signal different things to a device. They may not have proper gauge wiring. It may just be a bad cable. Etc.
I've charged the TB with the stock AC charger using both the stock cable, and one I got from Monoprice. Works fine. I've also got a USB hub I converted to a charging station (follows the spec for USB dedicated charging ports), and that works fine with both the original and the Monoprice cables.
I have run into "flaky" cables, where they only work right if jiggled around a bit. Maybe they've been flexed too much, and have an intermittent connection. Maybe the contacts have gotten dirty. I don't worry about it, I just throw those away, you can get new ones from Monoprice for less than a buck.
Thanks Mike S (Also my initials, lol) That's what I get for posting after staying up a bit too late.
well i just ordered two micro usb cables from monoprice. we'll see if those fare any better.
the only thing i can guess is the power wires are a small gauge in the cables i bought from amazon. monoprice has two different kinds, some use 28awg for both data/power and then they have some that have 24awg for power and 28awg for data. i'm hoping that getting the bigger wire for the power will solve the issue.
also, i've been using juiceplotter and you can visibly see the slope of the charge change when switching just between these cables i bought vs the stock one when using the HTC charger so i'm pretty certain it's the cable.
roppetty said:
i've been using juiceplotter
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Battery Monitor Widget will do that, and more, including telling you whether it's charging AC or USB.
You can also check the charging type from Home Settings/About Phone/Battery/Battery Status.
Can anybody recommend an external power pack that works with the flyer/view? I was looking at this:
http://www.amazon.com/New-Trent-IMP...FO/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1324398340&sr=8-20
It will work with your Flyer, but it will charge much slower than the HTC power cord due to the USB connector. It may or may not keep your unit powered during normal use depending the way you use your device since the current supplied will be limited by the standard USB cable (~500ma) vs. the propriety HTC charging cable (1200 ma). I would test by powering your Flyer off a standard PC USB port and see, This should be roughly equal to what this device will supply.
Hmm, me thinks I just spotted hardware hack number 3.
globatron said:
Hmm, me thinks I just spotted hardware hack number 3.
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lol
This would be great please keep us updated
I picked up a Dreamgear iSound 8000 ma model on sale from expansys, seemed like a nice unit and was supposed to be able to push 2amp but it's no faster with the HTC cable than a regular generic microUSB cable hooked up to a usb port. The biggest drawback was the thing completely died on me before the first cycle, I mean DEAD, won't charge and the flashlight doesn't even work. So much for on sale, return shipping $$.
Neil
As I posted previously in this thread it does not matter what current the source supply can provide. The cable is the magic. Standard cable, standard charge rate of 500ma which is about 30% of what the HTC charger will give you
DigitalMD, reread his post. He clearly states that using both the HTC flyer cable, as well as a standard micro USB, gives him no difference. So while your conjecture that "it does not matter what current the source supply can provide. The cable is the magic." is interesting, it is not, in fact, entirely accurate. Perhaps the cable is "the magic" in certain environments, but clearly not all.
No conjecture at all, in this case it is a fact. The Flyer cable has extra pins and conductors that are not in a standard USB cable. This tells the Flyer when a power supply is connected vs. a standard USB and the Flyer then allows for higher charging rate. Whit out that special cable, it will only charge at 500ma or aprox. 30% of the HTC power supply rate.
Actually less than that even. The htc charger runs at ~9v > 1amp. A lithium battery can rapid charge in the range of 900mA to 1.2A depending on the cell(s) in the battery.
There are two cells or two packs (can't tell which on visual inspection) in the flyer battery running in parallel. A proper htc charger running at 1A provides approximately 10W of charging power, a 5 volt source running at 500mA provides 2.5W so the USB charging will be 4 times slower.
As discussed in another thread shorting USB D+ and D- will allow the flyer to recognise a wall charger and charge at 5v 900 mA, the same could be applied to a battery pack capable of providing 900 mA sustained. It wouldn't be as quick as the wall charger but it is probably enough to provide for charging while using the device, rather than just slowing discharge.
On the question of leads, using a htc cable or standard micro USB makes no difference by default. When connected to a USB socket the flyer/view cable behaves like any other USB cable, the wiring modification is done inside the charger for a wall charger, and would most safely be done the same way for a battery pack.
The flyer internally uses a threshold voltage plus the D+ and D- pins to determine if it is charging from 5v or the dedicated higher voltage wall charger.
yes your post is a more accurate explanation, thanks
Thanks for the input. I will give that one a try and take my View cable with me. I have long road trip coming up.
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
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Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
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Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
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Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
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you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
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This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
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I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...
can someone point me to some car chargers, that have dual input(able to charge 2 items at the same time),but i need that full 1amp power so i can keep my note charging WHILE using it
thanks in advance
OEM chargers preferred
SayWhat10 said:
can someone point me to some car chargers, that have dual input(able to charge 2 items at the same time),but i need that full 1amp power so i can keep my note charging WHILE using it
thanks in advance
OEM chargers preferred
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Click to collapse
I haven't come across a dual USB charger that will put 1A into an Android phone out of the box. If you don't mind buying a USB cable that has the data pins shorted (so the phone recognizes it as a dedicated charger), then the Griffin Powerjolt dual USB car charger (1A each port) is nice.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/16940656?adid=22222222227000891117&wmlspartner=wlpa&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=13695927550&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem
The Note will only charge at about 1/2A until you use cables with the data pins shorted together (I shorted the data pins inside the charger).
It looks nice (almost like in came with the car since it sits about flush with your dash). I can confirm it can put 1A into the Note (using Current Widget).
mtucker said:
I haven't come across a dual USB charger that will put 1A into an Android phone out of the box. If you don't mind buying a USB cable that has the data pins shorted (so the phone recognizes it as a dedicated charger), then the Griffin Powerjolt dual USB car charger (1A each port) is nice.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/16940656?adid=22222222227000891117&wmlspartner=wlpa&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=13695927550&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem
The Note will only charge at about 1/2A until you use cables with the data pins shorted together (I shorted the data pins inside the charger).
It looks nice (almost like in came with the car since it sits about flush with your dash). I can confirm it can put 1A into the Note (using Current Widget).
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Click to collapse
So it's not the car adapter that's not putting out 1A, it's the USB cable? If I were to use any car adapter + charging USB cable, my GNote would charge at full rate?
Also: how do I know if my USB cable is strictly charging or charging + data?
tizzy said:
So it's not the car adapter that's not putting out 1A, it's the USB cable? If I were to use any car adapter + charging USB cable, my GNote would charge at full rate?
Also: how do I know if my USB cable is strictly charging or charging + data?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger has to be capable of putting out 1A or more for our Notes. If the voltage regulator inside the charger can't put out >=1A, then having the data pins shorted won't do any good. But if it can put out 1A+ and you don't have the data pins shorted, then the Note won't draw the full 1A. A lot of car chargers capable of 1A+ don't have the data pins shorted. I have read some people have luck with a OEM Motorola (1A out of the box) and I believe there is at least one Rocketfish charger (sold at Bestbuy) that gives 1A out of the box (although it only has one USB output). The problem is most chargers are meant to be compatible with iDevices and don't try to comply with the USB spec.
Most likely the data pins aren't shorted on any cable you have. Even if you have a charge only cable, it is probably just missing the data wires (not shorted). A few guys at work were buying cables off Ebay that were purposely made to have the data pins shorted. There are a few threads here on XDA (in the Note sections) that discuss various chargers and the need to short the data pins together.
Here is a discussion about a dual USB charger and charging Notes in general. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1720992
To the OP:
I just bought this off ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170834845305&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:3160
It's a dual port, 2.1A and 1A output, I guess the device draws current as needed?
---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:37 PM ----------
mtucker said:
The charger has to be capable of putting out 1A or more for our Notes. If the voltage regulator inside the charger can't put out >=1A, then having the data pins shorted won't do any good. But if it can put out 1A+ and you don't have the data pins shorted, then the Note won't draw the full 1A. A lot of car chargers capable of 1A+ don't have the data pins shorted. I have read some people have luck with a OEM Motorola (1A out of the box) and I believe there is at least one Rocketfish charger (sold at Bestbuy) that gives 1A out of the box (although it only has one USB output). The problem is most chargers are meant to be compatible with iDevices and don't try to comply with the USB spec.
Most likely the data pins aren't shorted on any cable you have. Even if you have a charge only cable, it is probably just missing the data wires (not shorted). A few guys at work were buying cables off Ebay that were purposely made to have the data pins shorted. There are a few threads here on XDA (in the Note sections) that discuss various chargers and the need to short the data pins together.
Here is a discussion about a dual USB charger and charging Notes in general. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1720992
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a bluetooth FM transmitter, and it came with charging cables. I know they are charging cables because it doesn't work as data transfer. Do you think the pins are shorted, or the wires are absent? Any way I can check?
mtucker said:
I haven't come across a dual USB charger that will put 1A into an Android phone out of the box. If you don't mind buying a USB cable that has the data pins shorted (so the phone recognizes it as a dedicated charger), then the Griffin Powerjolt dual USB car charger (1A each port) is nice.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/16940656?adid=22222222227000891117&wmlspartner=wlpa&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=13695927550&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem
The Note will only charge at about 1/2A until you use cables with the data pins shorted together (I shorted the data pins inside the charger).
It looks nice (almost like in came with the car since it sits about flush with your dash). I can confirm it can put 1A into the Note (using Current Widget).
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thanks for the info,im going to buy but found it a lil cheaper on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Power...UTF8&qid=1342386999&sr=8-1&keywords=powerjolt
but can you point me to where to find data cables (power cables) that are already shorted though?
tizzy said:
To the OP:
I just bought this off ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170834845305&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:3160
It's a dual port, 2.1A and 1A output, I guess the device draws current as needed?
---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:37 PM ----------
I bought a bluetooth FM transmitter, and it came with charging cables. I know they are charging cables because it doesn't work as data transfer. Do you think the pins are shorted, or the wires are absent? Any way I can check?
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i used the voltage widget(as he mentioned) to check and see if it puts out 1am
just download/install the widget,plug into phone, and see what the widget says
if its 5,000 or less, then its running at only .5 amp
i see at least 9,000 (though it should be 10,000 or so) when 1amp is running
If you don't want to cut into a cable and solder, you can use:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Adapter...UTF8&colid=7NRVJS6JI4DY&coliid=I3TYTQBSNKZ4GK
With shipping, its kind of expensive. I ordered a few (shipping costs the same as for 1) and put one in the car because, without it, the cable I was using only charged at 500 ma.
Jim Dead said:
If you don't want to cut into a cable and solder, you can use:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Adapter...UTF8&colid=7NRVJS6JI4DY&coliid=I3TYTQBSNKZ4GK
With shipping, its kind of expensive. I ordered a few (shipping costs the same as for 1) and put one in the car because, without it, the cable I was using only charged at 500 ma.
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thanks but i already tried that
it worked great for about a month (full 1amp) but now its conked out on me
so i was trying to go the shorted charger route this time, instead of an adapter
is there an instruction book somewhere that shows how to short cable?
I cant post a link...AT&T stores sell these, At&T website has info on them as well.
They are 30.00
Scosche reVOLT c2 Low Profile Car Charger- Dual 2.1A USB
Low-Profile Dual USB Car Charger. Dual 10 Watt (2.1A) USB ports can charge two iPads at once. Ultra low-profile design fits flush in most power sockets. This dual USB port car charger packs colossal power into a modest frame.
Car charger allows you to charge 2 devices at once - even 2 iPads simultaneously.
Each USB port has been designed to supply 10 Watts (2.1A) of power.
Dual 10 Watt (2.1A) USB ports can charge two iPads at once
Use your existing USB cables to charge your favorite devices
Ultra low-profile car adapter fits flush in most power sockets
RocketManOO7 said:
I cant post a link...AT&T stores sell these, At&T website has info on them as well.
They are 30.00
Scosche reVOLT c2 Low Profile Car Charger- Dual 2.1A USB
Low-Profile Dual USB Car Charger. Dual 10 Watt (2.1A) USB ports can charge two iPads at once. Ultra low-profile design fits flush in most power sockets. This dual USB port car charger packs colossal power into a modest frame.
Car charger allows you to charge 2 devices at once - even 2 iPads simultaneously.
Each USB port has been designed to supply 10 Watts (2.1A) of power.
Dual 10 Watt (2.1A) USB ports can charge two iPads at once
Use your existing USB cables to charge your favorite devices
Ultra low-profile car adapter fits flush in most power sockets
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeh but this requires you to use your own USB cables
the USB cables that are shorted is what i dont have
thats what im looking for.........
Best buy sells a rocket fish micro usb premium car charger that works great and it has a extra usb port up top. It's what I use.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
SayWhat10 said:
yeh but this requires you to use your own USB cables
the USB cables that are shorted is what i dont have
thats what im looking for.........
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I've bought several of different lengths on eBay. That's what I use.
RocketManOO7 said:
I've bought several of different lengths on eBay. That's what I use.
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shorted
not short cables
pussyliquor said:
Best buy sells a rocket fish micro usb premium car charger that works great and it has a extra usb port up top. It's what I use.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
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is it 1amp tho?
Ok, So I figured USB cables were pretty straight forward, but apparently i'm wrong, so maybe some of you can shed some light on this?
I have purchased several of those external battery type things to carry around when I need extra juice and am away from power for an extended time and I have found the following regarding cables very odd..
With the stock samsung wall charger/cable I get around 1000ma charge rate. Good...
If I take the above cable and use it with an external battery device I get 500ma.. Bad...
If I use the coiled cable that comes with the external battery I get 800ma charge rate.. Huh?
If I use the short straight cable that comes with the external battery I get 900ma charge rate.. Double Huh?
The external battery has a 1000ma charging port that I am using. (as well as a 2A)
When traveling around i'd like to bring just 1 cable instead of many cables each for a different device as these are all Micro USB and supposed to be standard, and I realized that some cables have the data pins shorted for extra power above an beyond the "standard" 500ma charge from a computer USB port.
What I don't get is how some of the cables deliver more than the normal 500ma from one device but not the other? Either the extra pins are shorted or not?
I know some of you will say who cares about 500ma or 1000ma, but I am using a 5400mah battery in my Note, and 5 hours vs 10 hours recharge time is a pretty big difference.
I just want one long cable that will charge at close to 1000ma from anything
While I don't know a great deal about USB cables, I do know that even our stock cables are cheap at best.
A year or so ago, I had an HTC cable go bad and decided to buy a high capacity cable.
I went online , to monstercable.com and found a 6 foot long brute..
It was nearly double the wire strand size, and used gold plated connections.
I could charge my phone in just under an hour ...using my stock HTC adapter.
I'm convinced that the resistance in the cable is your main issue. And a quality cable will solve it.
I paid $29.00 for the cable plus shipping, and I still use it today ....g