Related
I was testing out Skype with my Gtab and the mic is pretty terrible (no noise canceling). Is there any headset that would work with it?
I don't know the answer as far as a USB one. I use a Bluetooth headset and it works well.
My (admittedly not comprehensive) testing indicates that wired or bluetooth headsets do NOT use the microphone part. So while you are wearing your bluetooth headset record something and walk away from it while talking. When you play it back it is pretty clear (at least on my setup) that the audio is coming from the tablet's mic even though the playback is via bluetooth. Same for a Blackberry 3.5mm headset. Sound comes out, but does not come in.
I've often wondered also how hard it would be to get USB sound drivers going on Android so you could just plug in a cheapo USB sound dongle when you needed more sound umph. But I suspect that would be a big hassle. I have not really put in any effort to figure it out though.
Hi there. On my previous Galaxy S I simply had a holder for my car (no electronics) and used the phone's hands free capability whenever I wanted to speak to someone. It was fairly quiet though especially when driving around.
Now that I have a Galaxy S3 with an unlimited data plan I've started using Google Music for my music (instead of my iPod) through the headphone socket into the car stereo. This works fantastically!! I'm also able to get navigation instructions through there too. But when I try to speak to somebody (and I can hear them through the car stereo which is what I wanted), they can barely hear me, unless I pull the headphone jack out of the phone. At which point obviously I go back to using the phone's too-quiet speakerphone.
Is there anyway to have the phone's audio out through the headphone socket and have the mic work? Or maybe get an external mic somehow?
I've also recently bought an Infuse car dock as it's been reported that the S3 fits this perfectly. This provides usb charging and audio out through the dock, however it seems that it's for music/nav only... calls can't be routed through.
Any ways around this? How do you guys do your hands free in the car?
Thanks!
bumpity bump.
i have kind of the same issue....i got teh infuse dock and i have bluetooth handsfree in the car...seems i cant get the audio through the dock while connected to the bluetooth...and if i have it only on the dock sound the mic because it sits when the phone connects to the dock it muffles the sound pickup from us....be great if there was some way to have it all calls through bluetooth and music through the dock!!!
but dont know if thats possible...
also i downloaded "dock sound redirector" which puts calls&Music through the dock DarrenCarnall. if that helps you at all.
DarrenCarnall said:
Hi there. On my previous Galaxy S I simply had a holder for my car (no electronics) and used the phone's hands free capability whenever I wanted to speak to someone. It was fairly quiet though especially when driving around.
Now that I have a Galaxy S3 with an unlimited data plan I've started using Google Music for my music (instead of my iPod) through the headphone socket into the car stereo. This works fantastically!! I'm also able to get navigation instructions through there too. But when I try to speak to somebody (and I can hear them through the car stereo which is what I wanted), they can barely hear me, unless I pull the headphone jack out of the phone. At which point obviously I go back to using the phone's too-quiet speakerphone.
Is there anyway to have the phone's audio out through the headphone socket and have the mic work? Or maybe get an external mic somehow?
I've also recently bought an Infuse car dock as it's been reported that the S3 fits this perfectly. This provides usb charging and audio out through the dock, however it seems that it's for music/nav only... calls can't be routed through.
Any ways around this? How do you guys do your hands free in the car?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar problem.
Phone audio connected to hands free car system and media audio connected to the car radio using a2dp to aux converter.
When i use (stream) the media audio output (internet radio or navigation instructions) the hands free connection drops.
This means, hands free disconnection occurs when streaming music or voice trough the audio media output.
Before i had the HTC one x and there was no problem.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Regards from France
This seems to be a known problem, but after a day of research, I still don't see a solution, or really understand if this will eventually be fixed by (1) a developer update by someone here much smarter than me, (2) a Samsung update, or (3) will never be fixed.
Issue is:
When the SGS3 headphone is engaged (ie: a stereo phone cable from my SGS3 to my car AUX input), you cannot hear and calls in or out from the built in auto bluetooth (mine is an Audi A3). I've tested many alternatives seen on these forums including, TTY settings, call settings, grinding down the stub of the cable so it doesn't fully engage the headphone, etc.
All to no avail, as when the headphone is engaged (a notification of this pops up on the screen), the default sounds ALL go to the headphone source. Of course, the car mutes the audio mode when the bluetooth is enabled, so the sound is lost! What needs to happen is that the phone needs to allow the phone sounds to flow through the bluetooth. Why this doesn't happen by default confuses me. Never had a problem with my HTC Inc2.
Can a solution to this be developed by some of you talented guys out there working on fixes and mods?
[email protected] said:
This seems to be a known problem, but after a day of research, I still don't see a solution, or really understand if this will eventually be fixed by (1) a developer update by someone here much smarter than me, (2) a Samsung update, or (3) will never be fixed.
Issue is:
When the SGS3 headphone is engaged (ie: a stereo phone cable from my SGS3 to my car AUX input), you cannot hear and calls in or out from the built in auto bluetooth (mine is an Audi A3). I've tested many alternatives seen on these forums including, TTY settings, call settings, grinding down the stub of the cable so it doesn't fully engage the headphone, etc.
All to no avail, as when the headphone is engaged (a notification of this pops up on the screen), the default sounds ALL go to the headphone source. Of course, the car mutes the audio mode when the bluetooth is enabled, so the sound is lost! What needs to happen is that the phone needs to allow the phone sounds to flow through the bluetooth. Why this doesn't happen by default confuses me. Never had a problem with my HTC Inc2.
Can a solution to this be developed by some of you talented guys out there working on fixes and mods?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe if you go into the control panel of your car's built in computer and check the audio and Bluetooth settings it has, that might fix things.
Thread moved
This does not belong in Development.
So you have bluetooth for phone only and younlisten to your music with aux in? I would say if you had an aux in cable with the mic on it like the headphones, then the phone audio would go out over to the radio... But do they make those or how hard would it be to hack your free headphones you got into a double male aux cable
There are no options anywhere in the car settings.
Car mutes phone audio.
Juicy92 said:
So you have bluetooth for phone only and younlisten to your music with aux in? I would say if you had an aux in cable with the mic on it like the headphones, then the phone audio would go out over to the radio... But do they make those or how hard would it be to hack your free headphones you got into a double male aux cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sound does go through the phone audio already. But like almost all cars, when the car sees a bluetooth call in or out, it MUTES the audio coming in from the radio, the CD, or any AUX input. The phone should send call audio through bluetooth, but it does not.
Is it not possible to either play the music through the bluetooth or to turn off bluetooth all together. The phone mic would pick up wouldn't it
This is only possible if you have a newer car stereo with A2DP.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
So is this just a Samsung problem for me, or for all?
So I am correct that nobody with a bluetooth car phone setup (but no bluetooth streaming) is able to plug their headphones into their aux jacks and still make/receive calls?
Or is this related just to the SGS3? Or just to my Audi bluetooth options?
Would an eventual solution come from a xda brainiac update, from Samsung, or somewhere else?
Do some of you have built in car setups (no bluetooth streaming) that DO WORK with the headphones plugged in?
I can attempt to pair to my brothers car today or tomorrow if that will make you feel better. My bluetooth setup is aftermarket and streams both
I am also curious as to what happens if you don't have bluetooth enabled at all
What about car audio only. Wouldn't it automatically mute your music and then throw the call over bt or is the aux out overpowering the bluetooth signal. Let me look for a way to possibly disable the process that starts when you plug in headphones. Don't count on anything though
---------- Post added at 01:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 AM ----------
I was doing a little brainstorming here and even though I am quite a novice with tasker, you may be able to make a task that pauses music and transfers call to bluetooth when both bluetooth and headphones are connected. I am not sure if it is an input device problem or if the phone is just dumb or what, but it may be worth a shot
Juicy92 said:
I can attempt to pair to my brothers car today or tomorrow if that will make you feel better. My bluetooth setup is aftermarket and streams both
I am also curious as to what happens if you don't have bluetooth enabled at all
What about car audio only. Wouldn't it automatically mute your music and then throw the call over bt or is the aux out overpowering the bluetooth signal. Let me look for a way to possibly disable the process that starts when you plug in headphones. Don't count on anything though
---------- Post added at 01:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 AM ----------
I was doing a little brainstorming here and even though I am quite a novice with tasker, you may be able to make a task that pauses music and transfers call to bluetooth when both bluetooth and headphones are connected. I am not sure if it is an input device problem or if the phone is just dumb or what, but it may be worth a shot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your setup is not like mine, and should probably work, as you don't have to plug in the headphone jack. Yes, the problem is that IF the headphone jack is plugged in, ALL sound output goes through that and the bluetooth is disabled (even the symbol on the phone screen is grayed out.
With your bluetooth plugged in, just try putting the earbuds in the phone, then make a call to anyone, then see if your bluetooth icon on the phone call is not grayed out. Now unplug the ear buds and see if the icon doesn't come back on. This is the problem I have.
Never had any problems with either stereo worked fine in my altima and benz. I used aux + bluetooth no problem on my epic4g for the past 2 years and when I first got my s3 it was working until I did an update. Then it broke it.
Sick of having to unplug the aux cable everytime I get a call to allow it to switch to bluetooth
Need some people to test this, please...
I'd like to see if the problem is with the rooted phone image or if this problem also exists on stock, unrooted phones.
If you can:
1) pair your phone to your factory car bluetooth, or even a bluetooth headset that does not stream audio.
2) have any pair of headsets or an aux cable ready to plug in.
3) make a call using the bluetooth to anyone (ideally something that has an automatic answer phone cue like this 919-238-2000)
4) while the call is proceeding with the car bluetooth or bluetooth headset, plug in the headphones, or any cable into the headphone jack.
5) WHAT HAPPENS???
Is it (a) you still hear the phone call through the bluetooth, or
(b) you don't hear the call any more and the bluetooth headset icon on the phone pad goes out?
6) Please state what phone you have, what provider you have, and whether the phone is stock or rooted.
THANKS.
[email protected] said:
I'd like to see if the problem is with the rooted phone image or if this problem also exists on stock, unrooted phones.
If you can:
1) pair your phone to your factory car bluetooth, or even a bluetooth headset that does not stream audio.
2) have any pair of headsets or an aux cable ready to plug in.
3) make a call using the bluetooth to anyone (ideally something that has an automatic answer phone cue like this 919-238-2000)
4) while the call is proceeding with the car bluetooth or bluetooth headset, plug in the headphones, or any cable into the headphone jack.
5) WHAT HAPPENS???
Is it (a) you still hear the phone call through the bluetooth, or
(b) you don't hear the call any more and the bluetooth headset icon on the phone pad goes out?
6) Please state what phone you have, what provider you have, and whether the phone is stock or rooted.
THANKS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure I wasn't rooted the first time I tried it. In any case, I wrote to Samsung support on Facebook, and got this reply:
"Hi Chris, thanks for reaching out! You are correct, you cannot use both Bluetooth and Aux at the same time. A few of our customers found a work around by using an A2DP profile with hands free in the car. I apologize for the inconvenience."
So we know they are getting reports or they wouldn't push AD2P as a solution. I think if enough people write in, they will fix this in an update. We really need a critical mass of people to complain to Verizon and Samsung for this to happen. He did say when I replied asking about a fix, that he had passed my concerns on, etc., etc.
Mention "lawsuits from car accidents" when you write in...
sluzbenik said:
I'm pretty sure I wasn't rooted the first time I tried it. In any case, I wrote to Samsung support on Facebook, and got this reply:
"Hi Chris, thanks for reaching out! You are correct, you cannot use both Bluetooth and Aux at the same time. A few of our customers found a work around by using an A2DP profile with hands free in the car. I apologize for the inconvenience."
So we know they are getting reports or they wouldn't push AD2P as a solution. I think if enough people write in, they will fix this in an update. We really need a critical mass of people to complain to Verizon and Samsung for this to happen. He did say when I replied asking about a fix, that he had passed my concerns on, etc., etc.
Mention "lawsuits from car accidents" when you write in...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an issue when it's plugged in via Auxiliary there's a nasty echo the caller hears on the other end because of this headphone mode. Anyway to turn it off?
I will probably return it for this reason amongst others.
Belkin Y37 from Amazon will solve this issue, or provide an alternative.
I can fully confirm the functionality of the Belkin F8Z492TTP. It is now custom installed in my A3 with a direct power hookup and direct connection to the aux input. For power, I had to hook up a 12 volt car outlet behind the dash, insert a 12v to usb adapter, and splice the power cord from the factory transformer to a USB cable. Power is with a micro type H plug that Radio Shack does not have. They should give you a usb to type H cable with it.
Anyway, the Galaxy S3 will connect to two bluetooth devices at the same time...the Audi bluetooth and the Belkin Y37 Bluetooth. I put a shortcut button for bluetooth on my home screen which pulls up the options. You DO HAVE TO RECONNECT BLUETOOTH each time you get in the car, but you had to manually plug in the cable the other way.
When a call is made, the car bluetooth takes over with full steering wheel controls, and when it ends, the audio goes back on (I think automatically). Since I have constant power to the Belkin through the 12v, if you step away and then come back, you can automatically regain your connection, which is nice.
I did the modification to the Belkin where I broke it carefully open and pulled the metal innards that are purely designed to give it a feeling of mass. All that is inside is a teeny circuit board that must have cost $1 tops! Belkin lists this at $50, although it is half that on Amazon.
All in all, a decent solution to a frustrating problem. Sound is pretty decent.
Hi all. New here, so hopefully this will be concise enough.
T-mobile HTC Amaze 4g, no mods, all stock plus a few apps. Everything working fine on the phone. Purchased a Platronics BT headset, works OK; limited range, but passable. Just bought a Sony MEX-BT4100P car unit. Did the install myself (retired auto technician, so I know a little about doing it correctly). All working OK, BT pairs fine, functions all good (Phone book, redial, etc). Problem is a buzz noise during calls, only audible on the other end of the call, but it's pretty loud. Sound is similar to a slightly shorted mic cable. Voice is audible, just a loud background buzz. No noises with any other car stereo function. No noises with any other phone function.
Talked to car stereo vendor, they sent new unit and microphone. No change. Talked to HTC. They say that since the Plantroncs works fine, there's no problem with the phone.
I'm trying to find out if anyone else has experienced this specific issue and if so what had to happen to resolve it.
Any thoughts? I don't have another BT phone to try
Android 4.0.3, Sense 3.6. Don't know what other info might be helpful.
Thanks.
Charlie
Might be the headset
charlie.kaiser said:
Hi all. New here, so hopefully this will be concise enough.
T-mobile HTC Amaze 4g, no mods, all stock plus a few apps. Everything working fine on the phone. Purchased a Platronics BT headset, works OK; limited range, but passable. Just bought a Sony MEX-BT4100P car unit. Did the install myself (retired auto technician, so I know a little about doing it correctly). All working OK, BT pairs fine, functions all good (Phone book, redial, etc). Problem is a buzz noise during calls, only audible on the other end of the call, but it's pretty loud. Sound is similar to a slightly shorted mic cable. Voice is audible, just a loud background buzz. No noises with any other car stereo function. No noises with any other phone function.
Talked to car stereo vendor, they sent new unit and microphone. No change. Talked to HTC. They say that since the Plantroncs works fine, there's no problem with the phone.
I'm trying to find out if anyone else has experienced this specific issue and if so what had to happen to resolve it.
Any thoughts? I don't have another BT phone to try
Android 4.0.3, Sense 3.6. Don't know what other info might be helpful.
Thanks.
Charlie
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Charlie,
I remember having a plantonics headset. They were awful for me and they broke eventually. Did you try another headset? I think the headphones you're using could be the source of the problem. Hopefully someone else experienced in BT and headsets can assist you.
SuperAfnan said:
Hey Charlie,
I remember having a plantonics headset. They were awful for me and they broke eventually. Did you try another headset? I think the headphones you're using could be the source of the problem. Hopefully someone else experienced in BT and headsets can assist you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Plantronics headset is fine; it's the Sony car stereo BT function that's making the noise...
It's been a while since I've had the stock ROM on my phone, but try looking under the settings menu in dialer for 'noise suppression' and make sure it's ticked.
Does your head unit have a gain setting for the mic? I had a JVC unit that had one in the Bluetooth menu settings.
Actually, I just looked up your manual, you do have a mic gain.
It looks like you also have an echo canceller/noise canceller setting as well. See what playing with those do for you.
Failing those options, it sounds like you have interference in your mic. Try routing it away from any wires that carry current. You might try just holding it out in the open and making a test call.
Sent from my Amaze 4G using xda app-developers app
DarkMatter_74 said:
It's been a while since I've had the stock ROM on my phone, but try looking under the settings menu in dialer for 'noise suppression' and make sure it's ticked.
Does your head unit have a gain setting for the mic? I had a JVC unit that had one in the Bluetooth menu settings.
Actually, I just looked up your manual, you do have a mic gain.
It looks like you also have an echo canceller/noise canceller setting as well. See what playing with those do for you.
Failing those options, it sounds like you have interference in your mic. Try routing it away from any wires that carry current. You might try just holding it out in the open and making a test call.
Sent from my Amaze 4G using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Head unit - I've tried all settings on mic gain and noise cancellation with no changes at all to the noise, although voice quality changed as expected.
Microphone has been pulled out of the car, literally to the full extent of its cable, with no change. I've wrapped the mic and its cable in tin foil and jumpered that tin foil shield to chassis ground with no change.
It does indeed to me sound like microphone interference, but nothing I do, including a different mic, changes the noise. Head unit and mic have been changed out for new.
Does it happen even with the engine off?
Sent from my Amaze 4G using xda app-developers app
DarkMatter_74 said:
Does it happen even with the engine off?
Sent from my Amaze 4G using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. On, off, no difference. In garage, out of garage, no difference.
charlie.kaiser said:
Yes. On, off, no difference. In garage, out of garage, no difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This tells me it's not interference, at least not from the car's electrical system. Do you happen to live under high tension lines?
Ok, here's what we've got in an extremely simplified flowchart:
mic------>head unit------->bluetooth-------->phone-------->person called
Follow the path, eliminate as you go.
1. Unplug the mic completely. Make a test call, see if your caller hears the noise still. If not, it's either the mic (replaced already, but not unheard of to get multiple bad ones. Try a desktop computer microphone?) or poor shielding in the radio (not easy to fix, even harder to locate.) If it's still there....still might be shielding in the head unit. Unlikely though.
2. You've already messed around with the head unit's settings. Nothing to do here.
3. Bluetooth. My radio used a USB bluetooth adapter, yours is built in. Can't try a different BT.
4. Phone. You don't know someone with a phone with bluetooth? If pairing with a different device results in a clear call, it's the phone (you could try rooting/updating/replacing it. Maybe they just don't like each other?) If the noise is still there with a different phone, it's either the head unit (you got another bad one or they just don't make them very well) or it's outside your control. Maybe the tower itself. You could try driving quite some distance away, till you're on a different tower. See if it's clear then.
Beyond all this, I really don't know of anything else to try, apart from getting a different head unit.
DarkMatter_74 said:
This tells me it's not interference, at least not from the car's electrical system. Do you happen to live under high tension lines?
Ok, here's what we've got in an extremely simplified flowchart:
mic------>head unit------->bluetooth-------->phone-------->person called
Follow the path, eliminate as you go.
1. Unplug the mic completely. Make a test call, see if your caller hears the noise still. If not, it's either the mic (replaced already, but not unheard of to get multiple bad ones. Try a desktop computer microphone?) or poor shielding in the radio (not easy to fix, even harder to locate.) If it's still there....still might be shielding in the head unit. Unlikely though.
2. You've already messed around with the head unit's settings. Nothing to do here.
3. Bluetooth. My radio used a USB bluetooth adapter, yours is built in. Can't try a different BT.
4. Phone. You don't know someone with a phone with bluetooth? If pairing with a different device results in a clear call, it's the phone (you could try rooting/updating/replacing it. Maybe they just don't like each other?) If the noise is still there with a different phone, it's either the head unit (you got another bad one or they just don't make them very well) or it's outside your control. Maybe the tower itself. You could try driving quite some distance away, till you're on a different tower. See if it's clear then.
Beyond all this, I really don't know of anything else to try, apart from getting a different head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did try unplugging the mic and the noise goes away, but according to Sony and the vendor, if a mic isn't plugged in, the entire audio chain gets muted automatically, so it's not much of a test. I'm going to see if I can dig up another mic like a computer mic with a mute or on/off switch and see what that might do.
I'm in a rural area and not too many cell phones I can borrow here. Might be one I can find...
I'll try another tower too; that's something I have not tried. But this really sounds like audio input chain noise rather than post-processing noise. I was an audio engineer in a previous life and I am still leaning towards mic-related issues...
Thanks.
charlie.kaiser said:
I did try unplugging the mic and the noise goes away, but according to Sony and the vendor, if a mic isn't plugged in, the entire audio chain gets muted automatically, so it's not much of a test. I'm going to see if I can dig up another mic like a computer mic with a mute or on/off switch and see what that might do.
I'm in a rural area and not too many cell phones I can borrow here. Might be one I can find...
I'll try another tower too; that's something I have not tried. But this really sounds like audio input chain noise rather than post-processing noise. I was an audio engineer in a previous life and I am still leaning towards mic-related issues...
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update... Tried driving to another location, and voila! The noise disappeared. I'm now getting normal audio from the system. And what's really strange... back at the house the noise is gone as well...
Thanks to all for the suggestions and ideas! Glad it wasn't something more difficult to fix...
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
geetee360 said:
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recall having an issue with my samsung headphones. They didn't work at one point, I rebooted and they were fine. The phone didn't even detect them for some reason. I've had no issues with aux in my car (aside from needing a new cable), however I thought it would be worth mentioning that my Note 2 had an issue with aux when it is on any AOSP ROMs. Selecting any app, even swiping the notification window down, sometimes even just leaving the music app and going back will stop the music from playing. The only solution for this was to go to the home screen unplug the aux start music playing and plug the cable back in and touch no other app. Again, it never did this with stock. I even went back to stock briefly because of this. AOSP seems to throw a fit with the aux cables.
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
infernosoft said:
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just want my G3 to work as it should for such a simple function as the headphone jack/aux port.
I want to listen to music in my car without fannying around with different cables etc etc.
I had a Galaxy Note and S4, both played fine in the same car with the same cabling.
Shame on LG for releasing us a substandard product that cannot perform the most basic of tasks correctly.
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
R2DeeTard said:
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first feeling was confusion. I was also worried my headphones wouldn't work. But I was able to watch a beautiful high def video on my phone last night with my headphones on
Sent from my LGLS990
I just got this phone too, and although I love it, I was very sad to have this issue! I haven't had it on any other phone I have owned, so I certainly hope it is fixed in a future update. That and the video force close bug, but that is for another thread!
Guys, there is nothing wrong with the AUX port on your cars -- and they don't trigger via sound. They trigger via either conductive circuitry or via ohm load. Can you test if you are still seeing these problems when *not* charging? This issue is typically related to bad grounds. This happens to me at work when my phone is charging and I plug my headphones directly into my G3. If I pass the audio to my PC first (to the line-in,) and THEN to my headphones, the static is mostly gone.
So try unplugging the power source, and using different aux cables. Another factor is try plugging the power source into the same feed as the stereo. Sometimes this isn't that easy though.
What's happening on the back end with the sound changing between songs, etc, is that the audio codec, (the chipset,) is turning off to conserve battery. For me, when the chip turns on, it grounds the 3.5mm port just fine, and when it's off, AND I have power connected with headphones, I can get that whine -- depending on the scenario. So basically, this is by design -- an energy conservation tactic. I would be okay with them leaving the audio chip on the entire time headphones are connected.
Had this problem too and found that as long as I was charging the phone it would play like it should.
Yep, grounding issue. At work, routing the aux signal through my PC works just fine WHILE charging -- if I unplug, then I get all the machine noise.
In general, though, the headphone output is pretty crappy on this device. Even when it's "working great," there is still a faint amount of white noise that can be heard. Much higher than my HTC M7. The S5 had similar performance as the G3 though.
I just bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And plugged it into:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F474DVG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So when I get in my car, it connects to the dongle for music and the car's blue tooth for phone.
It's not perfect, but gets the job done.
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just purchased this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406313911&sr=8-1&keywords=kensington+noise+reducing+car+audio+aux+cable
Working pretty well. Mainly solves the connectivity issues.
Still have the pop between tracks but it's much better.
Still have the "computer talk" garbage noise related to the display coming through the left channel.
I can live with this until LG or Android comes up with a fix.
aux problem
I guess I lucked out with my phone but then again maybe not. First off I will describe my setup, I have a 05 Subaru WRX with stock 6cd changer head unit ( no aux port ) I installed a Harmon Kardon Drive + Play iPod dock. This allows me to remote control my iPod and comes with a display that shows tracks and such. It works by FM transmitter but has an optional wire which I have that connects directly between the antenna and the stereo so you get little to no loss of signal. Between the AUX and my phone I connected a PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise device. My previous phone was an LG Optimus G which I loved, when I hooked this phone up I could listen to Pandora/TuneinRadio through my car speakers and upon making/receiving a call I would hear the call through the car speakers and when I talked the phone mic. would pick up my voice. When I attempt this with the G3 I get no popping between tracks but the phone mutes the mic and when I say mute I don't mean the mute button comes on I mean the other person can't hear me. I found if I unplug and plug the phone in during the call eventually the mic works again, but to do this while driving defeats the purpose of hands free calling. Does anyone else have this problem? (or a solution).
Click to open expanded view
gorillaz1 said:
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Works for me, thank you.
Mines does not work at all, with headphones or aux Jack, now I have to get Bluetooth headphones and bluetooth radio for car
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Do we know if LG is working on this issue? Or if it is something that can even be fixed with an update? I'm getting tired of messing with the cable just to play music in my car, and I don't want to have to buy extra accessories to get the job done.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Srambo217 said:
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They fixed it with ZV6. If you're already on ZV6 then I have no idea.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app