I recently bought a part working but faulty S2 and have been using it for the things I wanted.
However the fault was that the volume up button wasn't working (volume down button was fine), as I used a bluetooth headset it wasn't a problem. However this stopped me from flashing custom ROMS.
I've taken the unit apart and can see that the top two of the four connectors on the flat ribbon cable connecting the volume buttons have broken at the solder points connecting the cable to the PCB..
I'm not a soldering expert and even after spending an hour looking on youtube for relevant videos (and not finding any) I need advice on how to solder the connectors back.
Would it be best to clean the existing solder and try to solder afresh (my concern here is that the plastic on the flat wire connector would surely melt?) or would I be better off using very fine wire and trying to make a patch?
If anyone could give me some guidance or point me at some vids I'd appreciate it.
Also if anyone in London is a soldering expert and would be willing to do it for me I'd appreciate the help.
Thanks
You can not solder the ribbon cable unless its at its contact ends. If the tracks are damage along the ribbon you may be able to use conductive paint to repair this, other wise and new ribbon cable part.
My advice is to look on ebay for a full housing most come with ribbon cables inside which for $20 or so must be a better option.
Post some hi-res photo If you can. To repair this yourself (if really only solder point is broken) You will need some equipment (preffered is soldering station with regulated power). Local electronics service might do it cheaper.
It's hard to post Hi-Res photo's without the risk of causing more damage.
This is the Volume Button sub assembly.
http://stellatech.com/article.php?lang=en&id=810429
If you look at the flex cable part you can clearly see the four connectors at the bottom of the photo.
If you imagine the two left hand most connectors soldered connection to the PCB are good and the two right hand most connectors solder has separated.
Hope this makes sense.
Not to stop you from fixing it, but if you haven't flashed custom roms because of being unable to do the 3 button combos, they aren't needed just use the command line to run "reboot download" or "reboot recovery" a Terminal app from the market or adb should be enough. Then most custom roms will even let you add shortcuts to each into the power menu.
shadowofdarkness said:
Not to stop you from fixing it, but if you haven't flashed custom roms because of being unable to do the 3 button combos, they aren't needed just use the command line to run "reboot download" or "reboot recovery" a Terminal app from the market or adb should be enough. Then most custom roms will even let you add shortcuts to each into the power menu.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that but I'd prefer to install CWM and install the ROMS via ODIN, this isn't possible without being able to use the Vol Up button.
OK so that's how i see it.
* Transformer soldering iron is not suitabe, could cause damage. You will need soldering station with very fine... ending (don't know the english word) and power output regulation (DO NOT BUY cheap ~20-30W integrated heater without regulation - it's worth nothing)
* Definitely you will need flux, in my opinion little pieces of solid-kind are better (than gel) but that's arguable.
* I would try to use existing remnants of solder and add some Pb-based tin (existing is Pb-less for sure so it requires higher temperature)
* Do dot try to remove existing solder - it will require long time of warming with solder iron and could cause much damage. Also special equipment is needed for that.
* Put some pieces of flux on desoldered part and warm it for the solder to melt but for as short time as possible. Do not touch any isolation (OR CASING !). Cable isolation do not melt easily but prolonged heating will surely damage it.
* Flux remnants should be removed afterwards using isopropyl alcohol.
* Practise on sth. similar as soldering requires some experience, electronic board is easy to damage by prolonged heating.
It's not very difficult, but if You didn't ever soldered anything, it would be cheaper, safer and probably wiser to find some workshop. There are people who can even replace chips on MB so this job will be piece of cake.
slig said:
OK so that's how i see it.
* Transformer soldering iron is not suitabe, could cause damage. You will need soldering station with very fine... ending (don't know the english word) and power output regulation (DO NOT BUY cheap ~20-30W integrated heater without regulation - it's worth nothing)
* Definitely you will need flux, in my opinion little pieces of solid-kind are better (than gel) but that's arguable.
* I would try to use existing remnants of solder and add some Pb-based tin (existing is Pb-less for sure so it requires higher temperature)
* Do dot try to remove existing solder - it will require long time of warming with solder iron and could cause much damage. Also special equipment is needed for that.
* Put some pieces of flux on desoldered part and warm it for the solder to melt but for as short time as possible. Do not touch any isolation (OR CASING !). Cable isolation do not melt easily but prolonged heating will surely damage it.
* Flux remnants should be removed afterwards using isopropyl alcohol.
* Practise on sth. similar as soldering requires some experience, electronic board is easy to damage by prolonged heating.
It's not very difficult, but if You didn't ever soldered anything, it would be cheaper, safer and probably wiser to find some workshop. There are people who can even replace chips on MB so this job will be piece of cake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this.
The fine ending is called a "tip" by the way.
While I have soldered things before nothing this fine to be honest, I think I'll try to find a workshop to do it for me.
Best Regards, thanks for the advice and have a good Holiday.
pinsb said:
Thanks for that but I'd prefer to install CWM and install the ROMS via ODIN, this isn't possible without being able to use the Vol Up button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just told you how to get into download mode to install with Odin. that was the reboot download command.
pinsb said:
Thanks for that but I'd prefer to install CWM and install the ROMS via ODIN, this isn't possible without being able to use the Vol Up button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And that's what he taught you to do.
Just use the command to reboot into download mode, flash in something like CF-Root kernel using Odin which then gives you root and CWM.
Then in the future, you can get the phone to reboot into download mode using the CWM app (it's called reboot download). Then you can keep flashing using Odin without needing the vol up button, especially if you are unsure if you are able to solder such a fine detail successfully.
With regards to soldering, you will need to keep the temperature low as possible so that you don't damage the multilayer PCB.
I should mention that will the commands to reboot into recovery or download mode work and could be all you ever need, they only work from a booted system.
If you get stuck in a boot loop you could be in more trouble and would need to fix the volume rocker to get into recovery and wipe OR get a jig and flash a full wipe rom to fix a boot loop.
shadowofdarkness said:
I should mention that will the commands to reboot into recovery or download mode work and could be all you ever need, they only work from a booted system.
If you get stuck in a boot loop you could be in more trouble and would need to fix the volume rocker to get into recovery and wipe OR get a jig and flash a full wipe rom to fix a boot loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which is why I want to fix the Vol button first.
At the moment I have a semi usable unit, if it boot loops I'm stuck.
Got it fixed today in 30 minutes for £10 including the cost of the replacement volume button part.
Worth every penny and have CM7 running happily now.
pinsb said:
Got it fixed today in 30 minutes for £10 including the cost of the replacement volume button part.
Worth every penny and have CM7 running happily now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how did you end up fixing it? i have a similar issue with my Galaxy Nexus with similar connections to the mainboard and i have snapped them off trying to take out the board to replace my ear speaker
please let me know the tools and procedure so i can try to fix mine aswell without messing anything up
many thanks
Just to let people know.....
I managed to contact a Samsung phone repair outlet that asked me to bring the phone in.
The sold me the replacement volume buttons connector and fitted it themselves for the price mentioned above.
In hindsight given these guys deal with this sort of stuff every day best take it to an expert and that's what I did.
Related
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
j0hn0n1 said:
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same problem with my x10 but i have warranty but whilst i was waiting for them to collect it, i cut my usb lead up and stripped the black and red cables back obviously positive and negative and took the battery out and wedged each cable on the phone connector with the battery my battery had a plus and negative signs on it so was easy 2 work out, it charges the battery but it doesnt come up as charging on the phone it will still blind red lights but doesnt turn off, you have to keep and eye on the charging levels on the phone status do not let it go over 99% as this method dont tell the battery to stop charging, also this is not full proof and could break your x10 if not dont correctly,but as for your question the usb port does need to be soldered good luck
j0hn0n1 said:
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi John,
I fixed my friends USB port, you will need:
"helping hands" (a tool for holding small things with a magnifying glass)
0.5mm or 1mm Soldering iron
Hot glue
Under the magnifying glass, there you will see the 5 pins the usb port was solderded onto. You will need to put a little bit of solder onto each pin and onto the board.
Hold everything together with the helping hands, and just tick the soldering blobs with your iron. This will connect all the points. Do not solder for to long, or you will bridge pins or remove the solder.
Continue until all 5 is connected. Solder the 2 points on the side (holds the USB port, you could do this first if you don't have the helping hands)
plug in cable, use multimeter to see if there is current by you battery pins.
Voila.
If no power then you have to follow one of those fixes online where you have to bridge the doide and the V+ port.
Thanks for the info, like I said the phone is dead anyway, so I can't really make it any worse (That's what I keep telling myself anyway).
It the parts were a lot bigger, I probably wouldn't be bothered as much, but if I do get it wrong, I'm hoping I can take it off, remove the solder and just start again. (hopefully)
I think I have a good idea now of what I'm supposed to be doing, but I'll probably have to wait till I get a new soldering iron, as mine is a little bit too big.
Thanks ...John...
I bought one of these phone's really cheap. The owner could not get it to boot. They had not tried a new battery. I opened it up and discovered a lot of corrosion on the USB part of the PCB, everything else "seems" O.K. I cleaned the corrosion from the USB PCB but it does not charge and the computer doesn't recognize it. I ordered a new battery, wall charge dock unit, USB pcb and a loudspeaker assembly about a week ago. Today I received the new OEM battery in the mail. I popped it in and the phone booted up. No real problems except it's locked to a provider I don't have any interest in using. Since USB is broken, I have to wait until the PCB part is delivered to replace it. I also noticed the home button (center plastic button) is not working. I have no problems keeping a stock ROM but I need to root to unlock it and this requires USB. My question is this, am I going to have any serious problems rooting and unlocking the phone if I can't get the Home button functioning?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXaBzHjnpqw USB PCB Damage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIlytcGx7wY The phone booting up
I think you need the home button to get into download mode. I might be mistaken though (need download mode to flash insecure kernel from Odin)
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
u should clean the corrosion with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a new tooth brush as for the home button sadly you need to remove the whole entire screen to get to it.. but once ur there just take the plastic off the click and use an eraser to clean it ,yes a pencil eraser..... this also works on blackberrys when there is water dmg on the buttons....
Also ... http://www.scribd.com/mobile/documents/56542824
george241312 said:
u should clean the corrosion with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a new tooth brush as for the home button sadly you need to remove the whole entire screen to get to it.. but once ur there just take the plastic off the click and use an eraser to clean it ,yes a pencil eraser..... this also works on blackberrys when there is water dmg on the buttons....
Also ... http://www.scribd.com/mobile/documents/56542824
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already done that, the damage is too extensive on the USB PCB. Going to wait for the new part. Thanks for the home button info though. Is there a USB jig that can auto root these phones?
It's rebooting after turning off because of the USB port/circuit damage. A new one will fix this easily. You can root it without the home button using DoomLord's root toolkit.
Yayah!!
Intratech said:
It's rebooting after turning off because of the USB port/circuit damage. A new one will fix this easily. You can root it without the home button using DoomLord's root toolkit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wanted to thank you again. I replaced the USB flex cable and used Doomlord's to root and used an App off the market to SIM unlock it. Sweet things, loving this phone! Just need to replace the home button. I am using button savior for the home button for now.
USB flex cable replacement:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aChzv3IzxsU
After root and unlock, phone and data testing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQTWZb5PHAc
Please help, I miss my tablet.I had the common problem with the power thingy inside the tablet going out so i opened it to solder but did not fix.So i ordered the charging dock and waited for a month and a half.I get it today and was so excited to only plug it it and got power and charging everything is perfect,i go to swipe over on my arrow to unlock the screen and nothing!I have no touch controls on screen what so ever.But the soft keys work,they do not do me any good but they work.The home key takes me to my home page and mag glass goes to the internet.Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
alcapone1130 said:
Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, check for disconnected or loose cables inside the gTab.
Next, if it isn't a HW fault like loose cables, then connect the USB cable to the gTab and run this ADB command (you will have to install and set up ADB if you haven't already done so):
Code:
C:\SOME\PATH> [B]adb shell "echo -n 1 > /sys/devices/platform/tegra_touch/calibration"[/B]
Digitizer Cable/Connection
alcapone1130 said:
Please help, I miss my tablet.I had the common problem with the power thingy inside the tablet going out so i opened it to solder but did not fix.So i ordered the charging dock and waited for a month and a half.I get it today and was so excited to only plug it it and got power and charging everything is perfect,i go to swipe over on my arrow to unlock the screen and nothing!I have no touch controls on screen what so ever.But the soft keys work,they do not do me any good but they work.The home key takes me to my home page and mag glass goes to the internet.Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The attached pdf contains photos of the digitizer/cables and their connections inside the gtab. Check for loose connection and/or broken wires on both ends.
Al
aabbondanza said:
The attached pdf contains photos of the digitizer/cables and their connections inside the gtab. Check for loose connection and/or broken wires on both ends.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok,First thank you so much for helping.Ok,One of the cables you shown does have two broken wires,it is the kind of short wire with black cloth like material over it that runs unde the shiny brown plastic piece.Is there a way to fix that or rig it to get me back up and touching again?Thank you again for helping me out,and you already pinpointed my problem,now i am hoping you can fix it,lol.
Where is the break?
alcapone1130 said:
Ok,First thank you so much for helping.Ok,One of the cables you shown does have two broken wires,it is the kind of short wire with black cloth like material over it that runs unde the shiny brown plastic piece.Is there a way to fix that or rig it to get me back up and touching again?Thank you again for helping me out,and you already pinpointed my problem,now i am hoping you can fix it,lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume since you didn't send in under warranty for the power connector that it's no longer under warrantly!
Exactly where is the break? Close to (or at) one of the connectors? Which end (motherboard end or digitizer end) of the cable? Obviously closness to the connector makes it more difficult. I have seen a post where another use had the break pretty close to the connector & fixed it though.
Al
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
aabbondanza said:
I assume since you didn't send in under warranty for the power connector that it's no longer under warrantly!
Exactly where is the break? Close to (or at) one of the connectors? Which end (motherboard end or digitizer end) of the cable? Obviously closness to the connector makes it more difficult. I have seen a post where another use had the break pretty close to the connector & fixed it though.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
alcapone1130 said:
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you magnify the digitizer circuit (lower photo in the pdf) you will see the label for each of the lines in the cable. Assuming the lines run straight thru, it looks like the ones that broke are the power & ground to the circuit (VSS & GND). That would explain the touch screen not working at all.
Hard to tell from the video where the breakis, but it looks real close to the connector.
Your best bet may be looking for someone who has a broken digitizer (outer glass) or gTab and is selling it for parts. I looked in the Marketplace forum here on XDA & there is one non working gtablet someone is asking $55 for. I also saw another one up for bid on ebay ($40 latest bid). You my have to ask if the cable is good on them.
Not a whole lot of options for repair. As you've already experienced, the cable is small & fragile.
If the connector has removable pins then you could remove the pins, solder the wire to it & reinsert the pins, BUT from the picture it doesn't look like they are removeable.
You could solder the 2 wires to the pins coming out the back of the socket but they look too small to easily solder to.
The last option would be to rigg the cable to work. There are a couple of possibilites but I would rather you consider the other options before suggesting a repair of the cable itself. If you can, see if you can take a closeup, high res photo of the back fo the connector where the wire broke. PM me & I'll send you my email address to send it too.
Al
aabbondanza said:
If you magnify the digitizer circuit (lower photo in the pdf) you will see the label for each of the lines in the cable. Assuming the lines run straight thru, it looks like the ones that broke are the power & ground to the circuit (VSS & GND). That would explain the touch screen not working at all.
Hard to tell from the video where the breakis, but it looks real close to the connector.
Your best bet may be looking for someone who has a broken digitizer (outer glass) or gTab and is selling it for parts. I looked in the Marketplace forum here on XDA & there is one non working gtablet someone is asking $55 for. I also saw another one up for bid on ebay ($40 latest bid). You my have to ask if the cable is good on them.
Not a whole lot of options for repair. As you've already experienced, the cable is small & fragile.
If the connector has removable pins then you could remove the pins, solder the wire to it & reinsert the pins, BUT from the picture it doesn't look like they are removeable.
You could solder the 2 wires to the pins coming out the back of the socket but they look too small to easily solder to.
The last option would be to rigg the cable to work. There are a couple of possibilites but I would rather you consider the other options before suggesting a repair of the cable itself. If you can, see if you can take a closeup, high res photo of the back fo the connector where the wire broke. PM me & I'll send you my email address to send it too.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow,Thank you so so much,Can you get me in contact with the guy with the gtab for $55.00,i will buy it and transfer the cash to him immediately,that sounds like the best bet.I will msg you a really good photo still,incase i can not get my hands on the one for sale,but if i can let him know or maybe you could let him know that i will buy it quick enough maybe i can end up with it.I would really feel better just swapping the cable out with another.I will talk back with you tomorrow and again thank you for your time and great help,i really owe you.
Marketplace & Non Working Tab Links
alcapone1130 said:
Wow,Thank you so so much,Can you get me in contact with the guy with the gtab for $55.00,i will buy it and transfer the cash to him immediately,that sounds like the best bet.I will msg you a really good photo still,incase i can not get my hands on the one for sale,but if i can let him know or maybe you could let him know that i will buy it quick enough maybe i can end up with it.I would really feel better just swapping the cable out with another.I will talk back with you tomorrow and again thank you for your time and great help,i really owe you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are several link for you
1. XDA Marketplace http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1321
2. Link to "Wanting to sell" subformum where I found the non working gtab (used forum search for gtablet) http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=476
3. Link to not working gTab http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1436549&highlight=gtablet.
Take a look at this post & email him to make sure you want it.
Al
aabbondanza said:
Here are several link for you
1. XDA Marketplace http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1321
2. Link to "Wanting to sell" subformum where I found the non working gtab (used forum search for gtablet) http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=476
3. Link to not working gTab http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1436549&highlight=gtablet.
Take a look at this post & email him to make sure you want it.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its amazing what a couple of stripped bread ties will doo,lol.I took a bread tie and stripped the paper off of it,cut it to the length I needed and wrapped the remaining wire to one end and pushed the other end of the tie inside the pin hole,lol.It worked like a champ! MY Grab has been up and running for over a month,I just knocked on my coffee table,lol.Thank you for helping me out I really appreciated you trying everything to help me.I am so happy to have it back,now if I can just figure out why I keep seeing black boxes on my games when I play them I will really be doing fine.Thank you again.
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
I'm at work and no access to a proper computer, so searching is a bit difficult at the moment. Would appreciate it if you guys could suggest some options for me
Basically my microUSB port has gone faulty, it won't stay connected to any of my 4 USB cables/chargers. It will charge for a bit, but then stop and make the disconnected sound, without being touched. Sometimes wiggling it can get it start charging again, but it needs to be repaired.
So, I need to unroot and put it back to stock. I'm concerned that trying to flash via Odin is going to end badly, if the port suddenly decides to disconnect itself from the computer in the middle of the process.
What should I do? I'm pretty new to Samsung, this is my first one, and I have heard about a mobile Odin - is this an option? If not, then what are my choices?
Thanks.
Bump.
Any ideas, guys/gals? I'm very reluctant to just try flashing a stock ROM through Odin, because I am almost 100% the USB will disconnect during the process. At the moment I have a working phone, and I don't want to change that to a bricked phone!
If there is no way to do this without a reliable USB connection, then does anyone know what Three UK are like when it comes to warranty repairs on modded phones? Do they even check if it's been flashed with custom firmware?
Use Mobile Odin
Glebun said:
Use Mobile Odin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I found Mobile Odin, I'm gonna buy the pro version. Any "watch out for this" advice? I've literally only used desktop Odin once before, other than that I've just flashed ROMs through recovery....
setspeed said:
OK, I found Mobile Odin, I'm gonna buy the pro version. Any "watch out for this" advice? I've literally only used desktop Odin once before, other than that I've just flashed ROMs through recovery....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same advice you get when you use the desktop Odin. I'd used it and no problems at all. GL
setspeed said:
OK, I found Mobile Odin, I'm gonna buy the pro version. Any "watch out for this" advice? I've literally only used desktop Odin once before, other than that I've just flashed ROMs through recovery....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh mobile Odin should be fine, just make sure it has enough charge and you have done all the triangle away etc. you need first. I guess try and follow this guide but with mobile odin - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1911726 The unroot guide at the bottom should help
I think the voltage is too low. If you use usb extension cords or other chargers the voltages could get too low and the phone reduces the charging power so charging gets very slow. With a loose contact this is also possible. Try to unplug and plug in the phone.
Whoa guys. Hold your horses. Turn into repair? Never do that until its your last option. This problem isn't uncommon tho, and often its an easy fix as well. What it sounds like is a loose connection. So here's how to fix:
1)Turn the phone off. Its not nessisary but its better safe than sorry right?
2) Get something thin, a pocket knife works great, maybe a saftey pin might do the trick?
3) Locate the microUSB port, and since we are on a i9300 forum, its going to be on the bottom, easy to find.
4) Inside that port, is a panel thatsticks out, this has the gold/ metalic panels that connect with the gold/ metalic pannels on the charger that you try to plug in. There is a very small space bellow it, get your tool (knife / saftey pin) and GENTALLY pry up that pannel. Be ohhhh so careful of it, you really dont need much for it to work again.
5) Once satasfied, test it! Turn on the phone and connect it up for a charge/to the computer. It should be working like new.
This is common when you continuesly use the port. This happened to my old nexus s and was an easy fix.
If this doesn't work for you, it might be worth checking inside the phone. There are some good dissasembly guides on Youtube that an assist you. All you would then need to check is the connections the the MicroUSB port. If one appears damaged (which is kinda unlikely) then you may need to solder. If you feel uncomfortable doing that, then by all means, send it to Samsung.
Hope I helped. Any further questions your better of sending me a PM. Cheers!
WoodenAnts said:
Whoa guys. Hold your horses. Turn into repair? Never do that until its your last option. This problem isn't uncommon tho, and often its an easy fix as well. What it sounds like is a loose connection. So here's how to fix:
1)Turn the phone off. Its not nessisary but its better safe than sorry right?
2) Get something thin, a pocket knife works great, maybe a saftey pin might do the trick?
3) Locate the microUSB port, and since we are on a i9300 forum, its going to be on the bottom, easy to find.
4) Inside that port, is a panel thatsticks out, this has the gold/ metalic panels that connect with the gold/ metalic pannels on the charger that you try to plug in. There is a very small space bellow it, get your tool (knife / saftey pin) and GENTALLY pry up that pannel. Be ohhhh so careful of it, you really dont need much for it to work again.
5) Once satasfied, test it! Turn on the phone and connect it up for a charge/to the computer. It should be working like new.
This is common when you continuesly use the port. This happened to my old nexus s and was an easy fix.
If this doesn't work for you, it might be worth checking inside the phone. There are some good dissasembly guides on Youtube that an assist you. All you would then need to check is the connections the the MicroUSB port. If one appears damaged (which is kinda unlikely) then you may need to solder. If you feel uncomfortable doing that, then by all means, send it to Samsung.
Hope I helped. Any further questions your better of sending me a PM. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but I don't think it's a good idea for me to start undertaking physical repairs on a six month old phone. I'll let Three Mobile do it or replace it.
By all means though check the first option in attempting to push the connectors up
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2