Related
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
j0hn0n1 said:
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same problem with my x10 but i have warranty but whilst i was waiting for them to collect it, i cut my usb lead up and stripped the black and red cables back obviously positive and negative and took the battery out and wedged each cable on the phone connector with the battery my battery had a plus and negative signs on it so was easy 2 work out, it charges the battery but it doesnt come up as charging on the phone it will still blind red lights but doesnt turn off, you have to keep and eye on the charging levels on the phone status do not let it go over 99% as this method dont tell the battery to stop charging, also this is not full proof and could break your x10 if not dont correctly,but as for your question the usb port does need to be soldered good luck
j0hn0n1 said:
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi John,
I fixed my friends USB port, you will need:
"helping hands" (a tool for holding small things with a magnifying glass)
0.5mm or 1mm Soldering iron
Hot glue
Under the magnifying glass, there you will see the 5 pins the usb port was solderded onto. You will need to put a little bit of solder onto each pin and onto the board.
Hold everything together with the helping hands, and just tick the soldering blobs with your iron. This will connect all the points. Do not solder for to long, or you will bridge pins or remove the solder.
Continue until all 5 is connected. Solder the 2 points on the side (holds the USB port, you could do this first if you don't have the helping hands)
plug in cable, use multimeter to see if there is current by you battery pins.
Voila.
If no power then you have to follow one of those fixes online where you have to bridge the doide and the V+ port.
Thanks for the info, like I said the phone is dead anyway, so I can't really make it any worse (That's what I keep telling myself anyway).
It the parts were a lot bigger, I probably wouldn't be bothered as much, but if I do get it wrong, I'm hoping I can take it off, remove the solder and just start again. (hopefully)
I think I have a good idea now of what I'm supposed to be doing, but I'll probably have to wait till I get a new soldering iron, as mine is a little bit too big.
Thanks ...John...
So my tablet stopped charging yesterday. I know a lot of people are having issues with their wall charger, but I think my problem is due to the 40 pin connector. It looks like two or three of the pins got bent (not sure how). Every time I plug it in, it has a light crunching feeling. The wire to tablet connection is not sturdy at all and tends to bend downwards due to a lack of support in the tablet. Asus is sending me info on how to return the device. The tablet has been amazing other than this poor design. Anyone else having this issue?
punkcitykid said:
So my tablet stopped charging yesterday. I know a lot of people are having issues with their wall charger, but I think my problem is due to the 40 pin connector. It looks like two or three of the pins got bent (not sure how). Every time I plug it in, it has a light crunching feeling. The wire to tablet connection is not sturdy at all and tends to bend downwards due to a lack of support in the tablet. Asus is sending me info on how to return the device. The tablet has been amazing other than this poor design. Anyone else having this issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine wouldn't charge/transfer data but that's because the connector fell apart. Not sure how your pins managed to get bent, but it should be easily rectified via RMA. Until you get your new charger you could probably snag an OG TF charger and use that. However, I would also check the socket on the Prime itself, see if there is anything "odd?" going on in there that could have bent the pins (and possibly do it again once you get another charger).
same problem here- I started another thread. the tablet will no longer charge. It was intermittent at first. sometimes it would stop charging without ever removing the charger or 40 pin connector from the device.
I don't know if it is just a bad charger/cable , or if there is something wrong internally on the tablet. I will be shipping mine back for full refund from where i purchased, unless there is something else to try?
Trying to find out if there is such a thing as going from extmicro usb that the evo and flyer have to a usb type A (or any other normal usb).
Need a right angle to plug into tablet for car install and found that I can fit a microb angled cable into the tablet, but now need to take the car charges extusb and get an adapter to hook it all together.
You can just buy a regular micro USB extended cable. It fits in the flyer/view charge port.
Proprietary cable is the one on the right. Regular micro USB on left.
I am installing the tablet in dash of a car.
I have the oem car charger because its only one with right voltage. But I need a angled usb for clearance issues. So im trying to figure a way to go from the charger EXTMICRO usb to the angled usb.
Searched around and have come up completely empty.
I'm working on the same project and found this thread searching (again) for more info on extusb. The solution I came up with for getting enough clearance to use the port requires disassembly and if you plan on keeping the warranty, it's probably not a good option for you.
Anyway, my solution was to make some small right-angle brackets for the pcb that contains the extusb port. It requires material for the angle brackets and two small screws with nuts. See attached for a better idea.
I actually got the tablet installed and fairly well, but have since removed it to come up with better designs for charging, access to the power button (and possibly volume buttons) for recovery actions, turning the screen on/off with ignition, and potentially microphone relocation.
You may want to check out http://www.dealextreme.com/ for right-angle and other adapters if you don't want to open up the tablet.
PS: Protect that screen. The plastic is very soft and will easily scratch.
I don't follow.
I thought the HTC car charger was a plug with a USB port in it just like all the others. I thought this might help, but I probably have no idea what you're really looking for
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Right-Angled-Micro/dp/B005EV2LAM
If you *need* to use the 12pin micro usb that the view has (which from my understanding was only there for the docking station utility), then you might be out of luck unless you can build something yourself.
Im looking for a cable like you linked to, but then I need a way to connect the flyers car charger special usb tip into it. Only way I can think of is to carefully grind the corners so that it will fit into a micro B female connection.
But the chargers are not cheap and if I F*** it up Im out $30
On a kia soul forum where others are planning on doing the same install with the flyer, one guy has come accross a company that makes custom cables. He said that if We send the car charger to them they will replace the usb tip with a micro B 90 degree angle for $25.
So A person is sending the charger to them to have it done and is going to let us know how it comes out.
jacobbones, can you provide a link to the kia soul flyer thread?
Yes, here it is.
http://www.soulhamsters.com/forum/i...ale-again-24feb-7-android-tablet-199-shipped/
Talk about the custom job is near the end of the posts
opening up the car charger and replacing the cable is incredibly simple. I have done it so many times, I can probably do it blindfolded. I actually had to go and replace the OEM chargers cable with the USB cable that it came with because my damn dog chewed threw the charger cable. Didn't come back very pretty, but it works, that charger has got the be the best charger built I have ever seen, incredibly difficult to open, but I'm sure the car charger is a lot easier to open, you just need a soldering gun and it should be easy.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
Before I begin, if there is already a thread outlining this particular problem, I apologize in advance.
Yesterday my Truesmart was in the charging cradle sitting on my desk, not realizing it, I accidentally opened a draw which pulled on the USB cable, dragging my Truesmart off of the desk and onto the floor. My truesmart fell about 2 feet and is fine, but the charging cradle will no longer charge it. I would assume that something broke in the cradle when it fell, which justifies the pathetic quality of it, although there is no visual damage on the cradle and when shaken nothing rattles around inside of the cradle.
My question is what should I do now? I am almost certain that it is the cradle that is the problem and not the Truesmart or the USB as the watch will still turn on and the USB will charge other devices. I have tried different power sources and different USBs and I only have one cradle. Is there anything I should troubleshoot in order to try and get the cradle working? Or is is possible that the problem is with the watch?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The spring contacts in the cradle may have gotten smushed in a bit by the impact. Try prying them up gently with like a needle.
Otherwise, the solders connecting the microUSB connector inside the cradle might have failed. They have been reported to be of poor quality on another owner's cradle with cold solders. Try resoldering them if probing them shows them not good connections anymore.
Thirdly, maybe your USB cable itself was damaged in the drop. Test it too.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I tried what you suggested with the needle and it didn't make any difference, they seem to be at the right position anyway.
I have a feeling it might be the solders, as it is possible that the sudden shock of the microUSB inside of the port caused something to break. Unfortunately I do not have any knowledge of soldering nor the equipment to do it. I wouldn't know how to open up the cradle without breaking it anyway.
I already tested the USB cable, it charges anything else, and I have tried other USBs with the Truesmart to make sure that it is infact the cradle.
I have sent Magan (may or may not have spelt her name right) two emails and have received no response.
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
I've been thinking of replacing the spring contacts with actual pogo pins. It's silly that the charger doesn't utilize them to begin with.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am aware but I figured it was worth a shot since my order was missing a keychain that I was told would ship "soon".
I might look into taking it into a shop, how much did it cost you to do that? And I didn't understand your last sentence.
He mistyped "dollar store".
Apparently they have such cheap budget shops up in Canada too. I get my colored USB cables from them, they say, " Made in China" on them and generally last a couple of weeks.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
rhineymac said:
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
SkyHawkTech said:
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Agent. said:
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure mine is the female USB port too, as my watch was plugged in when it fell so I assume the shock of the male USB caused it to break. Your guess is as good as mine as to if they ever plan on actually fulfilling their promises, they have done a pretty crummy job thus far. The charger is absolute junk, at least if we had the charging cable they initially promised we might be able to work with it a bit more.
trent999 said:
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That isn't a bad idea for a temporary fix but the fact that it even comes down to doing something like that is absurd in my opinion, the charger should have been done and ready while they were dealing with all of the other BS issues.
Well, remember that for most owners the charging cradle they received works fine. It is not that poorly designed - mostly failures reported have been due to shoddy assembly. Similarly careless assembly has been reported on the watch itself in various areas.
I got my extra charger I ordered via Kickstarter, included in the package, but have never tested it nor needed to. I also figured out a way to charge the spare battery with an Anker universal charger, just in case. That charger came free with a couple of VGNexus batteries I bought from Amazon.
You might have better luck with the USB port repair staying fixed if you support its attachment to the board, such as it is, with an application of SuperGlue prior to resoldering the connections.
Holding a cable connector in place via only the contact solders would always be a bad design though.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk