Adding a 47k ohms resistor between pin 4 and 5 on the micro usb connector on the cradle will make the dock mode activate automatically. If you have some soldering skills this is for you. The picture attached is for a fosmon brand. I also posted a video on youtube with the same title as this post.
Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B3ioX7oG3k&context=C358b7a4ADOEgsToPDskJh0S59K5qkSxEFpIO2RL_E
You should add the link of your video.
Sent by accident from my Amaze using Tapatalk
Not allowed to post links yet
Try searching for waldypl on youtube. For some reason is not showing searching for the original title.
The youtube video is finally showing, just search the post title on youtube.
Enjoy!
Followed the tip and did a similar mod for the GSI dock (on Amazon) and it works like a champ.
The GSI dock is considerably less well engineered than the dock wperez2 posted and relies on hot glue to hold the connector in place.
So if you have one, its a doable mod, but be prepared to scrape a boat load of hot glue out to get the connector free in order to connect the resistor.
Additionally, this dock has a rat-tail USB cable and a micro usb plug for a power cable. You cannot use the the plug to connect with USB since it only has the power and ground wires connected. While you're in there routing around, its pretty straight forward to connect up the connector to the plug if you want.
Alright, might be a noob-ish question, but how did you figure out the hack? What is the underlying principle?
Thanks!
sh
Related
I am looking for a permanent car charger cable to install into my car.
It needs to be a 15' to 20' long with a straight cord for a hidden cable run.
I would like to hook it up to the cars wiring under the dash, run it under the windshield pillar trim to between the headliner and roof then drop out above the rear view mirror. I would then plug it into my car dock this just makes a cleaner look.
I have searched around the net but no luck yet.
Any help would be appreciated.
I haven't seen that, but what you may need to do this this. I did something like it a few years ago with a radar detector
get this or something like it
http://cgi.ebay.com/Belkin-Mini-Uni...Accessories&hash=item3a66d9f61b#ht_643wt_1396
and then a usb cord for the length you want, and attach the power and ground to the cig lighter adapter you can take it apart if you need just make sure you get the + and - right and leave the fuse in there. then tape it up nice with electrical tape and wire it in to the fuse panel to turn on with the ignition. its really not as getto as it sounds.
i just use that adapter and plug it in my back seat lighter and run the cord up by the front seat
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
Why don't you just connect to the wiring that is connecting to the cigarette lighter adapter?
That way it would be 5V, and then you can connect that to a project box, and install a fuse in there, and then put the wiring from that to the usb cable.
I did this about 10 years ago, when I directly connected the radar detector, and lights under the seats controlled by buttons. Was fairly easy to do, depending on how much room you have to work with connecting the wiring.
nejohnson said:
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
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Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
KMac Tilt said:
Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
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Click to collapse
buy a 12v socket too, get something like this, should be cheap on ebay, then just snip off the male end and stripe the cable so you can tap your car's 12v socket wiring
http://www.google.com/products/cata...sa=X&ei=9Xg6ToTpGeuksQLKluEk&ved=0CI8BEPMCMAc
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
Lord Delmar said:
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
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Click to collapse
as far as I know USB cable can go up to 5m or about 16ft, this length has more to do with data transmission signal quality issue, for straight charging there's no signal at all, so shouldn't be a problem. When you get a chance please post your link, so i can study this some more
went google found this...
http://www.otdl.com/VDROOP.PDF
Here is the thread...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=844055
Here is my post within that thread, its post 23, but my question is answered around 25.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9402352&postcount=23
Have you checked with 12 Volt Designs, they offer a couple of options that may work for you.
I would post a link, but I am still new to this forum
This is such a good idea!
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Get a 2amp 2 usb car lighter charger from Amazon and 15 or 20' micro usb cable from monoprice.com... Exactly my setup with a exo gear Exomount for my evo to windshield mount.
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D
I got tired of multiple cigarette lighter adapters a while back. I bought a 5A 12V to 5V converter on eBay, and wired it to switched power. It powers my phone, GPS, and Bluetooth audio gateway all from the one little box.
I will be using my GT 7.7 allot in the car and likely in the landscape orientation. This puts the 30pin connector and cable sticking straight out the side.
Is there any 90 degree ("L" shaped) 30pin connectors available? (similar to a "L" shaped SATA connectors -see picture-)
If there is, this would point the cable towards the dashboard and and make the cable routing less messy looking.
I searched but didn't come up with anything.
Note: I know I could use the Samsung OEM car dock (which, I think, has the power cable connector in the back/bottom) but was looking for a lower cost option.
Thank
Any luck with finding one of these cables?
Neogrin said:
I will be using my GT 7.7 allot in the car and likely in the landscape orientation. This puts the 30pin connector and cable sticking straight out the side.
Is there any 90 degree ("L" shaped) 30pin connectors available? (similar to a "L" shaped SATA connectors -see picture-)
If there is, this would point the cable towards the dashboard and and make the cable routing less messy looking.
I searched but didn't come up with anything.
Note: I know I could use the Samsung OEM car dock (which, I think, has the power cable connector in the back/bottom) but was looking for a lower cost option.
Thank
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you had a look at my cheap solution for car a car dock and cable management yet?
I know this was posted awhile ago, but if you or anyone else is interested, the original samsung galaxy tab HDMI dock uses the same connector and works w/ the 7.7 (I know because i have a couple). You can get these on amazon for $15 right now. I believe this is the same dock for all the tabs and they just change the plastic piece that holds your tablet to accomodate the model (i have the original galaxy tab, the 7 Plus, and the 7.7 and they ALL work).
If you take it apart, the tablet connector looks exactly like what you are looking for - an L shaped 30-pin. The profile when plugged in is very thin and looks less like when you have the actual car charger cable plugged directly into the tablet.
I've attached a picture of what the cable end looks like. The nice thing is if you keep all the electronics intact, there is an area in the back that the car charger cable connects to pass power to this cable as well as a 3.5 jack for your auxiliary audio connector. Once you lop off the plastic tablet holder part, you have a bare ribbon cable that you can cover in black electrical tape and you just have to mount the pod onto the back of a hard tablet mount and plug your power and auxiliary audio cable into it.
Dear rEVOLVE
i liked your idea the most and i already ordered the dock, but i have a question, my ordered dock has HDMI output as well, so can i do some electronic modification Like this DIY USB OTG cable to connect USB hub to it in the same time as well, so finally i got i charging 30pin port, auxiliary 3.5 audio port, HDMI port, and USB port???
thank you
hi
I need some of help with power plug for galaxy tab
look at this http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1931227&p=-1&#bottom
anybody got any ideas?
Trying to find out if there is such a thing as going from extmicro usb that the evo and flyer have to a usb type A (or any other normal usb).
Need a right angle to plug into tablet for car install and found that I can fit a microb angled cable into the tablet, but now need to take the car charges extusb and get an adapter to hook it all together.
You can just buy a regular micro USB extended cable. It fits in the flyer/view charge port.
Proprietary cable is the one on the right. Regular micro USB on left.
I am installing the tablet in dash of a car.
I have the oem car charger because its only one with right voltage. But I need a angled usb for clearance issues. So im trying to figure a way to go from the charger EXTMICRO usb to the angled usb.
Searched around and have come up completely empty.
I'm working on the same project and found this thread searching (again) for more info on extusb. The solution I came up with for getting enough clearance to use the port requires disassembly and if you plan on keeping the warranty, it's probably not a good option for you.
Anyway, my solution was to make some small right-angle brackets for the pcb that contains the extusb port. It requires material for the angle brackets and two small screws with nuts. See attached for a better idea.
I actually got the tablet installed and fairly well, but have since removed it to come up with better designs for charging, access to the power button (and possibly volume buttons) for recovery actions, turning the screen on/off with ignition, and potentially microphone relocation.
You may want to check out http://www.dealextreme.com/ for right-angle and other adapters if you don't want to open up the tablet.
PS: Protect that screen. The plastic is very soft and will easily scratch.
I don't follow.
I thought the HTC car charger was a plug with a USB port in it just like all the others. I thought this might help, but I probably have no idea what you're really looking for
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Right-Angled-Micro/dp/B005EV2LAM
If you *need* to use the 12pin micro usb that the view has (which from my understanding was only there for the docking station utility), then you might be out of luck unless you can build something yourself.
Im looking for a cable like you linked to, but then I need a way to connect the flyers car charger special usb tip into it. Only way I can think of is to carefully grind the corners so that it will fit into a micro B female connection.
But the chargers are not cheap and if I F*** it up Im out $30
On a kia soul forum where others are planning on doing the same install with the flyer, one guy has come accross a company that makes custom cables. He said that if We send the car charger to them they will replace the usb tip with a micro B 90 degree angle for $25.
So A person is sending the charger to them to have it done and is going to let us know how it comes out.
jacobbones, can you provide a link to the kia soul flyer thread?
Yes, here it is.
http://www.soulhamsters.com/forum/i...ale-again-24feb-7-android-tablet-199-shipped/
Talk about the custom job is near the end of the posts
opening up the car charger and replacing the cable is incredibly simple. I have done it so many times, I can probably do it blindfolded. I actually had to go and replace the OEM chargers cable with the USB cable that it came with because my damn dog chewed threw the charger cable. Didn't come back very pretty, but it works, that charger has got the be the best charger built I have ever seen, incredibly difficult to open, but I'm sure the car charger is a lot easier to open, you just need a soldering gun and it should be easy.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
First off I'd to say hello from Alaska,
Ok this may sound strange but does anybody out there know where i might find or have one made, I'm looking for a cable with 2 40 pin connectors on both ends, 1 male and the other female. This is for my TF201 and dock, I would use it so I don't have to take off the case to the Prime just plug in to the prime and to the dock..
Thank you all Stan
Cables to Go should be able to do this for you. I've had them make custom cables for me before. It likely won't be cheap, but they should be able to do it.
www.cablestogo.com
Just in case anyone was curious, I thought I would try to get lucky and see if a female-female USB adapter with a standard ASUS 40-pin cable on either end would work. However, it was only a novel attempt and the tablet does not recognize the dock as I had hoped.
I am sure Cables-to-Go could get something to work, but I agree that it will be quite expensive. It would be nice if there was a jumper cable accessory to accomplish this same concept since I am in the same position as the OP and typically carry the tablet in its own case and only use the dock when I have alot of typing to do.
On a side note, I did confirm that my Logitech Anywhere Mouse with the Unifying Receiver does work 100% with my tablet and Dock!....I just may be able to leave the laptop at the office yet!
Does anyone have a mapping of the pins and wires? I would like to try and "splice" two cables together to try and make a jumper cable but would need to make sure that I make the right connections. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think that's going to work for several reasons.
First and foremost, if use two TP USB cables as the souce of the parts, you'll end up with a "jumper" cable with male connectors at both ends. You need male to female, remember?
Secondarily (and almost as important) is the number of contacts on the USB end of the cable. USB has four conductors plus shield and nine conductors plus shield in USB 3. Taking a cursory glance at USB plug on my TP cable, that's all there is. I don't see any additional conductors.
Following this, it's EXCEEDINGLY unlikely that the cable has 40 wires (one for each pin on the Prime end) running the full length. If it did, where would they connect to on the USB plug? Kinda silly to include extra copper to go nowhere.
Instead, if you were to pry open the 40 pin male plug, you'll see that most the pins aren't connected to anything. They're not needed for the USB cable.
Sorry to say, this just isn't going to work.
If you do choose to clip one of your cables just to have a look-see, cut the cable somewhere in the middle. If you cut right up next to the USB plug, you won't have ample wire there to repair what you're about to break.
I am aware that you will need a female adapter to make a true "jumper" cable. However, there may be a way of jerry-rigging a connection to the dock if a female connector can't be found (I have yet to find a part online).
My question is more in regards to whether or not anyone had a schematic of which of the pins are connected to which of the respective USB pins so that I could determine the best way of making a connection....short of having a cable for the ASUS TF201 like this: iPhone Extension Cable
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.