I am looking into an invention of mine that involves Tablets. I have a Galaxy 10.1, and I am using it to do a basic design.
I wanted to know if their are certain pins that you can connect resistors to to open a certain application. Of course the actual opening of the application would be in the coding of the app, but I know apple products use Resistor sizes in their docks that say its in a dock mode, or a charging mode, or a car charger etc. Is their anything like this with the galaxy tabs?
And if there is, could I simply install a completely unused resistor size, and write a program that opens when it see's that resistor size being connected?
Related
Alright, yes I know how to use the search function and I can launch the Car Dock application itself just fine with the previously mentioned shortcut, however I need to switch the mode itself apparently (i.e. with the steering wheel icon onscreen).
I own a Car Dock but I want to be able to use the included cable that supports both charging and audio output in one cord. THAT only works in Dock Mode (in fact it doesnt even charge when plugged directly in, let alone route the audio to the 3.5mm jack.
I have to say that so far the thought put into the Motorola accessories like this dock blow away the HTC options and this Micro-USB to combo USB/3.5mm is exactly what I need but sometimes I just want to be able to only plug in ONE cord.
Any thoughts?
Im not sure what you are asking -- I disabled the Car Dock application by telling Tasker to open by default when plugged in.. I get MEDIA audio through the audio plug from the car dock.
Like I said, along with the car dock there is a combo cord, Micro USB to plug into the phone and USB on the other end for power as well as a female headphone jack. This cord usually plugs into the back of the dock which just extends it to the Micro-USB plug in the cradle that you set the phone into. I want to use the cord only, plugged directly into the phone.
Unfortunately the phone only routes audio out through the Micro-USB port when its in car dock mode, this is separate from the car dock app running and is denoted by the steering wheel icon in the top bar of the screen. Its switched into this mode by the previously mentioned magnets in the car dock, I need a way to switch it on some other way.
The cord is convenient because you only have to plug ONE thing in and you have both power and audio. Make sense?
starcastic said:
The cord is convenient because you only have to plug ONE thing in and you have both power and audio. Make sense?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Believe me, convenience makes sense to me.. I took the HD dock, and modified it so that it could be mounted to a ProClip swivel mount.. Part of that involved opening up the actual dock.. There is an IC inside the dock mount, if I recall - and I suspect that may be doing some playing around with the USB/audio split function. I did not see any magnets in there. The phone knows the difference between the HD Dock and the Car Dock - so I suspect the IC is giving it some of its info to determine that. I am not sure if magnets are being used this time around.
Does anyone know if the remote that comes with the web-dock combo will work while the phone is in the car dock? It would be a great feature and a lot safer to change songs while you are driving.
When I first got my Photon I had a problem getting the phone to seat properly in the dock using the Sprint case with holster. The case was hitting the raised area around the connectors because the hole in the case wasn't big enough, so I took a small file and carefully enlarged the hole so it could seat properly. I said all of that to say this; The phone appeared to be seated enough to be docked but was off just enough to not get a good connection. If there was anything magnet related it would have been in the dock enough to have been activated. There is definitely something in the dock that is being monitored to put it in Car Mode. If I get a chance today I'll do some testing to try and determine what is going on.
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Been offline while doing some other things or I'd have replied earlier but yeah, the magnet idea was just a guess based on other reports here, I've not had a chance to disassemble mine to see whats goin' on in there.
I have to say I'm not a huge fan of the fit and finish on the dock as it relates to the way the integrated connector mates with the phone, it has an odd angle on it and even then doesnt seat all the way. Thats both with and without my slim case, both with and without the included. I dont have the bulky chrome Dell-looking Sprint case but its SUPPOSED to accept that one if you remove the spacer insert in the dock.
Hello all,
I wonder if anyone can tell me how I know if my phone is in a dock mode? I've just bought a desktop dock from MobileFun, and while it charges it, and I'm able to access the phone for file transfer, I don't think its in dock mode. I've got Profile Scheduler, and it doesn't seem to detect when I put the phone into the dock.
Am I overlooking something obvious here?
Thanks.
If you put the phone into the dock, it shows a special "desktop page", basically a lot of empty screen with a clock in the middle.and some small shortcut icons and buttons in the top.
(cant make a screenshot ATM, my dock is at home and I am not )
HellcatDroid said:
If you put the phone into the dock, it shows a special "desktop page", basically a lot of empty screen with a clock in the middle.and some small shortcut icons and buttons in the top.
(cant make a screenshot ATM, my dock is at home and I am not )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. So the dock I've got seems only to be charging it, and not docking it. Any ideas about the difference? How does the phone know its being docked / charged?
Sorry to bump - promise I'll only do it once.
I'm just wondering whether the desktop dock is faulty, or whether I'm not doing something right.
How does a S3 know the difference between a dock and just simply charging, which is what my dock seems to be doing.
Thanks.
I think the phone knows about being in the dock the same way it knows about an OTG being connected, AC being plugged, the JIG being inserted and all these things, by a certain resistor value between the usually unused 5th and the VCC (IIRC) PIN of the USB port.
Or in other words there's a resistor of a special "value" between two PINs of the USB connector, and via that the phone knows what's going on down there.
The original Sammy dock doesn't (to my disappointment) do much more than just charging and allowing for connecting external speakers.
It doesn't even pass the USB through, so connecting the dock to the PC and putting the phone into the dock will NOT give USB connection
Ohwell....
Hey folks, I did a search, but I can't seem to find anything. Does anybody know of a low-profile dock/charging cable, or where I might be able to get a connector to build a cable of my own? I've got a project in mind using the Tab2 7.0, and I need to have it always connected to power, but there are certain space constraints in effect, and I think the Tab2 + standard-sized connector will be much too large to fit.
Ah, if only Samsung had placed the charging connector on the left-hand side instead of the bottom...
Hello xda world.
I did a search, first of all.
Now, I have a need (car pc) to use my 12v-5v regulated dc converter (5a output) to drive a USB port. I would like to enable it with a 3-throw switch so I can switch the port to the proper output, according to what phone is plugged in.
I know this involves shorting the data pins for android devices (easy), but how do apple devices know what they are plugged into? is it a certain resistance across the data pins?
I want 1 selection to be data port (no pins shorted, easy), 2nd selection there will be a direct short across the data pins (easy), and 3rd position i want it to act like an ipod charger. (???)
I will supply 5a to the port at all times so current will never be an issue.
Any reason anyone sees why this might not work?
Thanks for the help!
resinis said:
Hello xda world.
I did a search, first of all.
Now, I have a need (car pc) to use my 12v-5v regulated dc converter (5a output) to drive a USB port. I would like to enable it with a 3-throw switch so I can switch the port to the proper output, according to what phone is plugged in.
I know this involves shorting the data pins for android devices (easy), but how do apple devices know what they are plugged into? is it a certain resistance across the data pins?
I want 1 selection to be data port (no pins shorted, easy), 2nd selection there will be a direct short across the data pins (easy), and 3rd position i want it to act like an ipod charger. (???)
I will supply 5a to the port at all times so current will never be an issue.
Any reason anyone sees why this might not work?
Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ugh, nevermind I found it- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1870586
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.