Has anyone tried to mod this case so that the USB port could be used. I was maybe thinking about cutting the tab and trying to make it like the top fold only a little longer. I'm just check if anyone has done this already to make my process go a little smoother
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Hello,
I don't know if the subject was already discussed, but I never saw anything about that.
So, as we are a lucky to own a device with a removing keyboard, I thought we could plug something else like a real pad and some buttons to make our device looks and feels like a real portable console. Take a look at the pic, though it is just a draft.
I think we could get the pad and the buttons from a real little joystick (there's plenty of them for diferent consoles), mount them on the Athena and join them with micro wires to the 8 pins used to connect the keyboard.
We would need informations about how the keyboard work with the main unit.
This is just an idea but I think it could be a really good one. I'm not a good homemade genius nor an amator, though, if you are interested, we could maybe work together on this project.
The cursor pad does exactly what the Athens' own joystick does. You can skip that.
mahjong said:
The cursor pad does exactly what the Athens' own joystick does. You can skip that.
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Hello,
I noticed that the stick on the Athena's can't do up-right,up-left,down-right nor down-left. At first look and first use I thought the stick was well designed, but finaly this issue prevents playing most games. If people here can use the stick to do diagonal axis, please let me know.
Aynway, the main idea was to make the Athena looks and feels like a real portable console. Game buttons really lake for this purpose and the ones available just suck. The feel is not good and they are not well set.
Also I'm not talking about piercing holes in the athena but finding a way to fix a pad+buttons set on the surface of the machine.
luthor_70 said:
Hello,
I noticed that the stick on the Athena's can't do up-right,up-left,down-right nor down-left. At first look and first use I thought the stick was well designed, but finaly this issue prevents playing most games. If people here can use the stick to do diagonal axis, please let me know.
Aynway, the main idea was to make the Athena looks and feels like a real portable console. Game buttons really lake for this purpose and the ones available just suck. The feel is not good and they are not well set.
Also I'm not talking about piercing holes in the athena but finding a way to fix a pad+buttons set on the surface of the machine.
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When u say fix a pad+buttons set on the surface do you sorta like using a silicon skin over the device with the buttons built in on it and using either fiber optic wires or some kind of thin ribbon cable going back to the keyboard pads and all the necessary cutouts already in place on the skin so you can still access all the stuff (ie. reset, battery area, external gps conectors etc. etc...) Or was I way over my head on this one?
tootallk2000 said:
When u say fix a pad+buttons set on the surface do you sorta like using a silicon skin over the device with the buttons built in on it and using either fiber optic wires or some kind of thin ribbon cable going back to the keyboard pads and all the necessary cutouts already in place on the skin so you can still access all the stuff (ie. reset, battery area, external gps conectors etc. etc...) Or was I way over my head on this one?
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Well, there are many ways to bind a system like that on the device without damaging it and by keeping access to the functions you mentioned. I haven't thought about that yet because I think the 1st thing to figure out is how the Athena deals with the keyboard using the pins. Has anyone ever seen informations about that ?
A very good & interesting idea , in my opinion add more buttons is always better as u have more choices to activate these buttons if otherways failed to do so , and i don't think it will take up space in the ram / rom , anyway Htc should look into this page , always more buttons , more better i say
- thanks for reading - jimmunsw
Any idea as to whether these will work with our G Tablets?
http://androidcommunity.com/advent-vega-dock-now-on-sale-hdmi-and-usb-20110222/
thfoster said:
Any idea as to whether these will work with our G Tablets?
http://androidcommunity.com/advent-vega-dock-now-on-sale-hdmi-and-usb-20110222/
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dunno? I'm going to have someone look into it for me and get back. hmmm, interesting
Should work with the Gtab, seeing as the Vega is a nearly identical device. That dock looks sharp and I like the headphone/speaker and extra usb ports.
I like that more accessory options are starting to pop up.
Is the Vega's docking port really that far offset from center?
Considering the GTab's is dead center, this does not look like it would be a great support structure for our tab.
it may work
it may fit as far as the connection type but the connector is really off to the side. It would need to be tested but i would think the Gtab would sit to far off to the left. The weight may eventually screw up the connector if its not strong enough to hold the weight from the tab going to the side....
I have a refurbished Tab 10.1 (v1) and it seems the display connection is loose and the picture is very distorted. It wasn't always like this, just happened out of nowhere. I tapped the edge a few times, and it was back to normal, and done that several times. It's no longer working now I want to crack this thing open.
However, getting to prying open the edges, I encountered the triangular screws on the bottom. I would like for someone to point me to a screwdriver that can help me here.
ddpacino said:
I have a refurbished Tab 10.1 (v1) and it seems the display connection is loose and the picture is very distorted. It wasn't always like this, just happened out of nowhere. I tapped the edge a few times, and it was back to normal, and done that several times. It's no longer working now I want to crack this thing open.
However, getting to prying open the edges, I encountered the triangular screws on the bottom. I would like for someone to point me to a screwdriver that can help me here.
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The screw type is a called Tri-Wing. eBay brings up quite a few options.
dave106 said:
The screw type is a called Tri-Wing. Can I ask what you used to get the screw covers off the bottom? They seem a pretty tight fit to be able to get anything in there to prise them out!
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Thanks!! Any specific size? You know the likes of philips come in various sizes. I used my small philips driver from my pc tools kit and just popped them right out, with some force. I dug it in in a way that it pushed and popped the covers out instead of trying to dig into the crevices. Kinda of messed up one, but I couldn't care less lol. :good:
Here's a question for a hardware modification: Anyone know of anyone modifying the charging base to make it easier to charge when on the go? I use my watch while sleeping to wake me up thanks to Gohma's sup'd up vibration and sometimes don't have time in the morning to charge it while getting ready for the day.
I've ordered a second base to take with me and am thinking of taking it apart to get it set up to just connect to while at the computer without taking off the watch. Has anyone else done something similar so I don't have to fully reverse engineer this thing to get it working nicely?
Gotta say, Not a fan of having to take it off to charge it.
Findings and going forward
Ok, For future reference: the sticky backing can be peeled off to reveal five or six small screws. These hold the base together and removing them allows for fairly easy separation. I discovered this after a good long while of trying to separate the two pieces. I was working under the impression they were being held together by clips and had mangled the side pieces pretty well until I discovered the screws. Probably should have looked closer and removed the backing first but....
Inside are the following:
1 board with the pins on one side and usb port on the other. The majority of it looks to be straight through with a few places for diodes and such but unless they are situated inside the pcb, I don't see them and they just dead end at the marking points.
two layers of metal and another layer attached to the top of the base sufficient to hold the screws pretty well in place. I assume that at least one or two of them are there to help with any possible electromagnetic interference. I haven't had a chance to delve too deeply into testing it.
Really simple and could be done very cleanly with the right tools and enough time. I am working on getting a suitable setup to slim up the base. I'm thinking of a more oval shaped setup and will stop by a radio shack on the way home today to get some molding putty to play with.
The hardest part with running the card on its own is the placement of the pins. They won't stay in place with any sort of movement. I have a feeling I will still use some if not all of the original magnets/metal pieces just in a slimmer casing. Possibly include a battery pack strapped to my arm with a short length of usb cabling.
The original idea was to reverse engineer the card to fit a smaller placement but I have a feeling that would be beyond my skill set right now. For version 1.0 I'll just use the current card and make it fit in a smaller area.
Any thoughts on any of this would be greatly appreciated as I continue forward.
Protect your mod port "dots". Avoid those Super Stupid cases made for our phones.
I was unfortunate enough to wear down one of the pins/dots the battery mod uses, but the projector mod still works, so I know it is hardware because I was in stock and also tried the mod on another play device.
Also you can see the wear and the mod framework informed the mod is misaligned when I put it on.
>>>Oddly enough it still charges the phone when in TWRP, but not when the phone is off?
Can anyone explain how that is even possible? lol
I was lucky enough to score a new z2 play with gold back and just a broken screen for 30 bucks on eBay
Seeing I have already replaced the battery in my phone for 20 bucks by myself the screen on mine will come off fairly easy...
There are a few cases that can be found on ebay that do indeed cover up your mod port. Just gotta hunt.
ROM: Unofficial Bootleggers + KVT.