The Archos 101's speakers are overdriven, so many people are having speakers crap out, even after getting replacements. I replaced mine with higher wattage/sensitivity speakers, and now have no speaker failure, and much better sound quality and loudness. I used two Mouser.com Part # 253-CE221-RO.
I'm not going to bother with pictures, as it's quite simple:
1. Unscrew the Torx screws on back, 6 total. The two closest to the side buttons are longer, make sure you note this. A Torx 4 or 5 bit will be needed, though you could file a flatedge down in a pinch to make it work.
2. Slowly pry open the edges of the case with a plastic wedge. There are free ones included with lots of phone repair kits, or you can file something down in a pinch. Use a flatedge screwdriver if you don't care about scratching the case, but don't push it too far in if it's metal.
3. Once all the clips have popped, open the halves until you see the big flat cable, that's the screens connector. Disconnect it from the back of the screen. Slowly! It has adhesive behind it, let it slowly come apart so you don't rip the aluminum shield on the back of the screen.
4. The Power/Volume buttons will probably fall out, they are all attached together, just set it to the side. Lay the two sides open on a table. There are still 2 things connecting the halves to each other, but you don't need to remove them if you keep the halves close together.
5. Unsolder the old speakers and pry them out. There is a little strip of adhesive holding them in. If you can keep it in place, you can use it to affix the new speakers. Make sure you center the new ones in the hole, there will be a couple of millimeters space left over. Make sure the plastic cone of the speaker will not be touching any adhesive underneath it. If you make sure it's centered, you shouldn't have a problem. Use a couple dots of hot glue to firmly affix them in their holes. Don't overdo it, you don't want glue to seep under the speaker and touch the cones.
6. Reverse the takedown procedure to put everything back together, don't forget the Power/Volume button strip. Also, don't overtighten the screws, you will see a very slight depression on the front of the tablet where the screws are, if it's a noticeable depression, back the screws out a quarter turn.
7. Boot up and enjoy. Make sure you turn the volume down a bit before playing, these speakers are louder than the originals. At full blast it feels like it's going to vibrate the screen to pieces.
I also ripped off my micro usb port, so for anyone with very good soldering skills, or alot of solder braid(and balls), the part number for that is ZX62D-B-5P8. I had to use trace ribbon(Flexible Flat Cable) to remake the traces, as they were ripped off as well. Crack open an old CD-ROM or check the bottom of an old hard drive to find some with the correct pitch if needed.
I'm also adding front speakers on the right hand-hold, kind of like the A70(no room for one on the left on A101). Post a reply if you'd like a parts list and tutorial for that process.
Just finished the testing. I'm updating the OP with results and guide.
Thanks for posting the detailed instructions. Might have to give this a try, given that one of my speakers blew after a couple of weeks. Also intrigued by the front speaker....
How did you identify which speakers would be a suitable replacement?
Yes please, I'd love to have the part list and detailed tutorial for adding front speakers to the A101IT because I can go right down the street to Mouser Electronics because I live close to there and know where it is!
So how well do these new Kobitone Speakers from Mouser fit inside the A101IT; Is it a tight fit or loose one? Also, what is the difference in speaker size (if any difference) and are the stock A101IT speakers' shape circle like the Mouser ones or oval?
Thanks mate!
fisha21 said:
Thanks for posting the detailed instructions. Might have to give this a try, given that one of my speakers blew after a couple of weeks. Also intrigued by the front speaker....
How did you identify which speakers would be a suitable replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've built alot of custom electronics, so I measured the old ones and used a bit of experience to guess the rest. There is a couple of millimeters of space left around the speaker, but it's super close, and the original speakers actually have an extra plastic case on them because they couldn't find cheap enough speakers that fit exactly. You won't find a closer match in size to the originals, and they have the best sound of any speaker in this size range.
spicy_puerto_rican: The stock speakers are round, with a large plastic collar to make them slightly larger. My replacements are a few mils smaller, but even the originals needed adhesive to hold them in, so the size difference really isn't an issue. As I said, they have the best sound quality and volume of anything in the size range.
With the loudness of the new speakers, I've decided not to bother putting front speakers in, but if you open your archos, you'll see there is so much space in the right hand-hold you could do almost anything in there. Feel free to experiment.
Thank you! My speakers went bad. I followed your instructions and the new speakers work great. It was difficult, but it would have been even harder without your instructions.
Jason
Tesla74 said:
Thank you! My speakers went bad. I followed your instructions and the new speakers work great. It was difficult, but it would have been even harder without your instructions.
Jason
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. It's been a couple of months now and they still sound good...
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
So, I was never a believer when I heard of people cleaning the lint out of their headphone jacks and getting them to work again.
That is, until I found a quick and easy solution to fix it. I've read of people using compressed air, paper clips and electric parts cleaners. So I had some duct tape handy and an idea popped into my head. I took a small strip of tape and twirled it into a small enough stick shape, inserted it into the jack and turned it and pulled it out. I did this several times removing a tiny amount of lint each time. The amount of lint that I pulled out was so small that I didn't think it was going to make a difference. Then I plugged in my headphones and, bam, they worked like new!
As a side note, the jack on my phone is loose and wiggly, so naturally I thought that maybe the connections inside the phone were loose and I was going to have take the phone apart to try and fix it. My headphones would connect and disconnect whenever I would wiggle or even touch my headphone jack and it gradually got worse. Then one day it stopped working altogether.
This is not some gimmick. Give it a try. And never insert anything metal or sharp into the jack. You could damage the contacts.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Juice3250 said:
This is not some gimmick. Give it a try. And never insert anything metal or sharp into the jack. You could damage the contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm a diehard lurker, but I have to bump this. Just fixed the exact same issue on a heavily abused Razr Maxx that I'd received from a friend, after months of dealing without headphones.
If you shine a light into the headphone jack and can't see the contacts at the very bottom, it's definitely lint that's keeping the jack from working. Personally, I had to use a paperclip to loosen it up a bit, but I'm pretty sure mine was a special case. Don't attempt with anything metal/sharp unless you have a light touch, and the tape on its own isn't helping.
I just tried this method on my Xperia Sola and it worked , I just reverse wrapped a duct tape on a piece of tooth pick so that the sticky part is outside and I entered it through the hole and turned it and pulled it out multiple times till all the Lint(en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lint) were gone.
It cleaned the inner part and now it is working like new.
Simple but effective fix!
I was about to send my Xperia Z1 Compact for repair for this very reason, but I stumbled across this post. Thanks so much! Saved me a lot of hassle and embarrassment. A big ball of fluff came out of the headphone jack and now the sound is great. Cheers!
tahsnks for the idea, i finally used a standar pin with electrical tape around it and worked great!
Never had a problem with my DX2, but used this with both my Droid 3, and Droid 4
Problem solved
I was about to throw my nexus 5 out the window because of the issue with the headphones and i didnt want to i already had thrown out a previous cellphone because of this. I just turned off the phone ( paranoid paper clip or something could make contact with something and mess it up. And started to slowly pick and poke away. The amount of lint I pulled out was unbelievable! I didn't stop until i saw a shiny bottom. Now it's works perfectly fine . someone should invent something to either prevent this or an item to clean it. Just saying. Thanks!
Wooh! a big as$ thank you man! the way you worded your post was the only thing that made me give this charm a try. Now I'm the lucky owner of TWO working headphones haha
Mine does not have lint.I have cleaned it. But still it does not produce sound when I plug the earphone. I have to hold the earphone tightly to connect fully with the audio jack. Can you help me guys?
I tried this and I was able to clean out some lint, it helped some, but I still have to push it one way to get sound
I thank God that our phones can be opened. My speaker stopped working today, so did some homework and watched a few videos on how to take the phone apart. I cleaned the speaker connectors and any other connector pads I could find inside the inner case plate (top and bottom speaker panel) and on the mother board and my speaker came back to life! I thought I would have to buy a new speaker panel. Saved some cash! I cleaned it with alcohol and canned air.
Update.
Speaker stopped working again. Did more investigating and some guys (in the NEXUS phone group) noticed that if you pressed on the back of the phone near/below the camera lens , the the speaker would work again. I tried this and found that if I took off the back cover and pressed directly left of the button area (UP/DOWN VOL-Home button), the speaker would come back on. So I removed the inner back cover and placed six small layers of electrical tape in that area to provide pressure to that area when the inner cover is reattached and screwed in. Well it's going on day two and the speaker works every time. Don't know if this is a great solution but I got my phone working again and avoided buying another 600-700 dollar phone again. Hope this helps somebody.
texasjmzmd said:
Speaker stopped working again. Did more investigating and some guys (in the NEXUS phone group) noticed that if you pressed on the back of the phone near/below the camera lens , the the speaker would work again. I tried this and found that if I took off the back cover and pressed directly left of the button area (UP/DOWN VOL-Home button), the speaker would come back on. So I removed the inner back cover and placed six small layers of electrical tape in that area to provide pressure to that area when the inner cover is reattached and screwed in. Well it's going on day two and the speaker works every time. Don't know if this is a great solution but I got my phone working again and avoided buying another 600-700 dollar phone again. Hope this helps somebody.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey,i have the same issue, but i don't understand where i have to put the electrical tape
Hey everyone,
I bought a Frankenstein phone,but the audio jack plays only on the left side. There is no way to stick something in there to move the jack to the right a tiny bit. Also the blacked out frame has the paint wore out around the USB and audio jack. Is there a good paint to put on it to cover it up? I use black permanent marker ,but it wears out. I've been looking for a place to repair it locally here in Washington state,but I have not received any emails back. Thanks for your time...
lol what are the chances! I am in WA too lol and had same issue with one of my V30 i bought last week, mine also only played from one side. If i pushed the plug to one side or pulled the plug out very slightly it would play both sides neither was an ideal solution for me. I used a can of air to clean jack opening first, then i removed most cotton from a Q-tip and used the Q-tip to try clean the jack from inside, neither worked at first but then i pushed in the plug fast by placing the plug in jack (without pushing it all the way in) and hitting it with hand to fast-push it in couple of times, it probably dislodged the dirt or lint stuck in there and it started working. Sometimes a piece of lint or other stuff can get stuck in there or cover the connections and plug doesn't make full connection anymore. Just make sure that you don't use a pin or needle to try clean inside the jack as you will probably break or damage the connections inside.
In your case it could be same or something else entirely but I suggest you try fixing yourself first because getting it repaired will cost you $50-100 or even more. These phones are not easy to open or attempt DIY repairs on.
As far as the paint chipping off, you could buy paint from a hobby shop like one in Redmond (HobbyTown USA), they sell small spray paint cans, you could use tape or stickers to cover the rest of phone and spray the worn out area with matching paint. Or just use a nice case that covers most of the affected area.
Lol that is a coincidence.. I'll try cleaning it out and see. Did you happen to buy yours off of eBay from a seller in Texas? Thanks for the reply