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I am looking for a permanent car charger cable to install into my car.
It needs to be a 15' to 20' long with a straight cord for a hidden cable run.
I would like to hook it up to the cars wiring under the dash, run it under the windshield pillar trim to between the headliner and roof then drop out above the rear view mirror. I would then plug it into my car dock this just makes a cleaner look.
I have searched around the net but no luck yet.
Any help would be appreciated.
I haven't seen that, but what you may need to do this this. I did something like it a few years ago with a radar detector
get this or something like it
http://cgi.ebay.com/Belkin-Mini-Uni...Accessories&hash=item3a66d9f61b#ht_643wt_1396
and then a usb cord for the length you want, and attach the power and ground to the cig lighter adapter you can take it apart if you need just make sure you get the + and - right and leave the fuse in there. then tape it up nice with electrical tape and wire it in to the fuse panel to turn on with the ignition. its really not as getto as it sounds.
i just use that adapter and plug it in my back seat lighter and run the cord up by the front seat
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
Why don't you just connect to the wiring that is connecting to the cigarette lighter adapter?
That way it would be 5V, and then you can connect that to a project box, and install a fuse in there, and then put the wiring from that to the usb cable.
I did this about 10 years ago, when I directly connected the radar detector, and lights under the seats controlled by buttons. Was fairly easy to do, depending on how much room you have to work with connecting the wiring.
nejohnson said:
I Would just use a cigarette lighter adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...082602&p_id=6765&seq=1&format=3#specification
hidden under the dash, and then plug in one of these:http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5138&seq=1&format=2
Everything you need to put a 12v cigarette lighter socket under the dash is available at an auto-parts store for <$10.
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Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
KMac Tilt said:
Thank you very much this is close enough to what I was looking for, I will make it work!
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buy a 12v socket too, get something like this, should be cheap on ebay, then just snip off the male end and stripe the cable so you can tap your car's 12v socket wiring
http://www.google.com/products/cata...sa=X&ei=9Xg6ToTpGeuksQLKluEk&ved=0CI8BEPMCMAc
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
Lord Delmar said:
Just as an FYI, as I see what you are going to do and it is a far better alternative.
A 10'+ cable will not give you full charging voltage at the end of that run. The cable is too long for the small amount of voltage running through it. While it WILL still charge, it will be at a fairly slower rate.
There is a thread in the EVO forums where I was asking cause it was something I noticed and someone who seemed to know what they were talking about when it came to electricity, replied.
I would link it, but been up all night and am getting tired.
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as far as I know USB cable can go up to 5m or about 16ft, this length has more to do with data transmission signal quality issue, for straight charging there's no signal at all, so shouldn't be a problem. When you get a chance please post your link, so i can study this some more
went google found this...
http://www.otdl.com/VDROOP.PDF
Here is the thread...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=844055
Here is my post within that thread, its post 23, but my question is answered around 25.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9402352&postcount=23
Have you checked with 12 Volt Designs, they offer a couple of options that may work for you.
I would post a link, but I am still new to this forum
This is such a good idea!
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Get a 2amp 2 usb car lighter charger from Amazon and 15 or 20' micro usb cable from monoprice.com... Exactly my setup with a exo gear Exomount for my evo to windshield mount.
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D
I got tired of multiple cigarette lighter adapters a while back. I bought a 5A 12V to 5V converter on eBay, and wired it to switched power. It powers my phone, GPS, and Bluetooth audio gateway all from the one little box.
Has anyone else experienced bad audio distortion while using the car dock? I noticed that when I unplug the charging cord it sounds fine...
I have not experienced this, maybe a bad ground on your charging port?
sent straight from my brain....
is there any way to correct that?
add another ground. I would try another car adaptor first though or your set up in another car. That will help narrow it down to the car or the set up.
Another thing to note is it might be dirty power. The way i hooked up the radio in the saab i have a constant humm (raised ground floor) due to a small fan that always runs on the same circuit i pulled either accessory power or the switched light feed. Hence why I am saying to try it in another car.
rooder said:
Has anyone else experienced bad audio distortion while using the car dock? I noticed that when I unplug the charging cord it sounds fine...
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Are you using the USB charger that came with the dock?
At first I just used my own USB charger I all ready had in the car and got audio distortion ...
I switch to the one Motorola included with the car dock and audio was clear as a bell
Have any of you guys found the neck to be a bit short for windshield mounting? I was thinking of getting this one to replace an old bracketron bracket I have but I doing know if the neck is long enough to see and manipulate the screen properly.
I am going to try a ground loop isolator to see if that makes a difference!
I'm having an issue with the car dock and audio when a song first starts off. When the audio starts I hear a popping sound. It does it when I first open the stock music player or anytime a new song starts with Slacker radio. It also does it when I first open tune in radio or when it restarts music after losing a connection (buffering). It seems to only do it when I plug into the adaptor which attaches to the mini USB plug. If I plug it directly into the phone through the headphone jack, it plays fine without any popping sound. Is this a common problem, or do I have a bum car dock? If some others can try their docks out, this would be great so I know if it is a common issue or not. It seems to be more pronounced at high volumes.
I'm not having any distortion but mine won't charge. I thought that it might be the cord but it will charge my wife's EVO, so I then took the cord into the house and used a wall plug and tried to see if it would charge that way. No luck.
It seems to charge using everything else but that cord even though that same cord WILL charge other phones????
I'm going to return it and get a different one but was wondering if anyone has had this issue at all?
Just weird...
Update...
If I use another USB it will charge and all but not go into dock mode. I still don't understand why it would charge other phone models but not the MoPho itself...
Yeah if you unplug the usb cord from the dock it def. wont charge the MoPho. My girl tried to charge her droid 2 on it too and it wont work. I assume it was designed that way.. motorola.. go figure
rooder said:
Yeah if you unplug the usb cord from the dock it def. wont charge the MoPho. My girl tried to charge her droid 2 on it too and it wont work. I assume it was designed that way.. motorola.. go figure
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It's not charging it either way, whether its plugged into the dock or just having the cable plugged directly into the MoPho but it will charge the wife's 3VO plugging the cord directly into hers.
rooder said:
Has anyone else experienced bad audio distortion while using the car dock? I noticed that when I unplug the charging cord it sounds fine...
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Are you in a Honda by chance? Honda's are infamous for this... anything that's connected to both a 12V output and an audio line in is going to have feedback unless you do some hacking. This is based on experience with 4 vehicles and probably a dozen car chargers, 5-6 phones, mp3 adapators, ipods, 2-3 car decks, etc. over the years (and confirmed by others). The only luck I've had mitigating it was to use a ground loop isolator (at least, I think that's what I used - writing from memory) on the car stereo power feed itself. I tried a ground noise filter on the audio line once and that helped very little.
You'll have the same problem if you try an FM modulator, but not if you use bluetooth audio, so that's what I do now.
Not having any problems with sound or charge but Nav went wonky today.
Edit: Kia Rio 2009
I have had the car dock for about 3 weeks - in Mercedes - it is working fine, charging OK sound OK, I have it set up so the bottom of the base rests on the dash - works well.
So they can work -
Any one have suggestions for a protective case that will work with car dock? I want my phone to slide into car dock and table top dock without having to take case off.
i'd love an answer to this too!
ScottJColby said:
Any one have suggestions for a protective case that will work with car dock? I want my phone to slide into car dock and table top dock without having to take case off.
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I updated in the other main Seidio cases thread ... with some minor tweaking the Surface case definitely fits the car dock (can't confirm the other dock yet until I pick one up this week).
I have an Otterbox Commuter that works fine with a small modification. Remove the small plastic bridge over the ports and it fits the dock nicely.
not sure if this justifies a topic of its own but i have kind of wrecked my hp charger cable by using it to charge my phone
i can only assume that the socket on my htc incredible S is tighter or something because the micro usb end wiggles around so much in my touchpad now it doesnt maintain a connection unless i apply pressure in a certain direction!
so just to let you all know, its probably best to keep your hp cable for your touchpad!
Why would you put it in your phone in the first place? They require different amount of power (tl;dr: you could have fried it).
Varemenos said:
Why would you put it in your phone in the first place? They require different amount of power (tl;dr: you could have fried it).
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huh? the device only pulls as much as much power as it wants
and it only pulls 2amps when the touchpad detects the right amount of resistance
he is talking bout the cable and actually it might be the "teeth" on the micro usb being lower than it should, i basically have gone thru 4 cables because they wont stay in the right place not only because they are recessed (which i have pulled back into place but because there is a crack on the usb port..
darkassain said:
huh? the device only pulls as much as much power as it wants
and it only pulls 2amps when the touchpad detects the right amount of resistance
he is talking bout the cable and actually it might be the "teeth" on the micro usb being lower than it should, i basically have gone thru 4 cables because they wont stay in the right place not only because they are recessed (which i have pulled back into place but because there is a crack on the usb port..
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I hate micro USB, such a flimsy design.
Basically some of the male ends are a micrometer thicker, causing the female end to stretch.
At least with TouchPad, you can get an inductive charger.
wonshikee said:
I hate micro USB, such a flimsy design.
Basically some of the male ends are a micrometer thicker, causing the female end to stretch.
At least with TouchPad, you can get an inductive charger.
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cant argue with that totally agree with the touchstone, oh if the tp was able to pull 2 amps that way though..
Varemenos said:
Why would you put it in your phone in the first place? They require different amount of power (tl;dr: you could have fried it).
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A switching mode power supply (pretty much all newer chargers) will put out its rated voltage as long as the current draw is equal to or less than its max spec. There is a slight variation between chargers output voltage but a few tenths of a volt won't do any damage.
I have charged all sorts of devices using the TP charger without issue. My Sansa Clip using a miniUSB cord, my Droid 3 using the HP cord. The microUSB plug is a standard so ports should be the same on all devices, but I really like miniUSB better. It seems like a more robust connection than micro which feels too small and flimsy.
My charger has a usb socket so I was able to swap out the micro usb charger - can you not do that?
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
oh yea, obv i can just change the cable, and quite cheaply, but was just letting people know that the slot on the touchpad must be quite big relative to other devices (though i can only vouch for my incredible S).
i'll have to buy a new cable now, though - no biggy
Sand down those spiked nibs that are supposed to hold the cable in place, they are too big to be needed and cause extra wear and tear on the units usb socket.
Taking them down to about 50% size and making them not so sharp gives the cable a good fit where it wont come out easy but its not like pulling teeth.
I learned this with my N900 lots of users did it, and now I noticed the touchpad had the same kind of fit and cable, so I consider this a necessity if you want to prolong the life of your device and minimize the possibility of something happening like what happened to the OP, atleast for him it was the cable that gave out and not the micro sub port on his TP.
my cable stopped working a while ago so im just using my samsung and htc cable,samsung cable is a real nice fit better than the TP one.
The supplied TP cable is just a flimsy POS. I've bought dollar store cables that were higher quality.
I use the TP charger and the cable that came with my phone to charge both devices. I've been doing it for months with no ill effects to the phone.
Sent from my LG-P925 using Tapatalk
Micro USB is a horrid and fragile setup to begin with.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using XDA App
yup my usb cable doesnt work anymore. I accidentally tripped over it lol
LOL good thing i bought 3 HP touchpad chargers over the weekend.
I actually lost the stock one.. so i 'stocked' up... just in case
Just FYI, the default AC adapter that comes with the TP has two parts.
The front part rotates to separate it from the base, if it's rotated a bit - it won't charge, so double check that the front (where the prongs are) are tightened properly.
Mine's developed the same fault using it on my Galaxy S2, it's now loose on all devices and I had to throw it away. I just think the quality's poor.
The HP cable for my TP stopped charging the device too, got in touch with support and a day later I received a shiny new replacement cable which *isn't* loose
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
my usb cable stopped working too (yesterday).
Well, it works but i need to hold the cable in a particular way or it stops.
Did any of you buy a replacement? if ya which one.
Hmmm, I got the touchstone and haven't used the USB since, unless plugging in to the computer to move an update.zip over. Still tight fit, and with rom I'm running touchstone seems to charge the same as the actual charger that came with touchpad.
It is actually a fact that the stock USB cables are of poor quality. So ultimately its not your fault if it goes bad. Just use another micro USB cable (even cheap ones you find at the convenience stores works great) to charge your touchpad. I've been using my micro USB which came with my phone to charge my touchpad and I must say its a perfect fit for the touchpad.
Received my prime yesterday, but it won't charge. Neither will the dock. I'm able to transfer files with the cable though. Tried with several outputs like the charger that comes with, computers usb output and another usb output. I wouldn't charge in the beginning then it suddenly started charging after a while. After that I updated to ICS and now it won't charge again.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
From the sound of it either your cable or your wall charger might be defective. Might want to have it exchanged.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
try re-assembling your charger (wall plug pins to the transformer block.)
The connection between the two bits can be flakey .
(I had the same problem with mine but fine now.)
Find someone else with a prime and gradually substitute the components : pins, charger and cable.
FG
I wouldn't personally recommend mucking about with an electronic device that you plug into the mains socket if you've never done it before, OP.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
good advice
I think I might have been misunderstood here: I was referring to the transformer block and the pin unit, which in the UK come as two separate bits which you slide together: hardly mucking about with it.
The connectors on the transformer part are a bit poor, and in my case gave a poor contact.
FG
Sent from my ATP using my fingers
Chrono_Tata said:
I wouldn't personally recommend mucking about with an electronic device that you plug into the mains socket if you've never done it before, OP.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
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The prime won't charge from a normal USB socket (eg from your computer) - the wall socket puts out 15V when it sees the prime attached instead of the normal 5V.
What I'd do is plug the prime into the wall socket - check if it works. If not plug another usb device for example a phone, kindle etc. into the socket and see if that charges - if it does it's the cable/tablet at fault, if not then it's something to do with the transformer attached to the plug.
As someone's alread mentioned before, occasionally the pins between teh transformer and the prongs that go in the wall aren't quite touching - some people have had success in bending these out very slightly.
Thank you for all your help. I did some testing, and it seems to be that the wall charger is the problem (wouldn't charge my phone either). It starts charging for maybe about 5 minutes, and then it stops (and it's pretty hot). If I let it cool of for a minute it's able to charge again, and same procedure happens. Then my only problem is to get hold of a new wall charger..
Looks like I'm not the only one with this issue. I feel like a doctor making a diagnosis.
Have had my Prime for about 7 mos. Got the docking station about two months ago, been working like a charm. I did notice lately that the charger block got warm when plugged in and both tablet and dock were charging. I didn't have anything else plugged into the outlet.
Last night I noticed it was being temperamental, it made the battery connection noise and showed the connection pop-up on the screen. Then I noticed on and off last night it kept going on and off. Finally it stayed on. When I checked it hours later, the dock hadn't charged a bit.
I did the computer test for the tablet, it reads it on USB and from what I could tell, it did charge up the tablet. Figured it was maybe the block. I tried charging it from the wall with JUST the dock. It worked for a minute as I saw the red light, then it went off again.
Replaced the block itself, nothing. Tried bending the pins out a bit on old one, nothing. Won't even charge the tablet now.
What is baffling to me is how the tablet shows when it's connected to the comp, with the SAME wire...
I looked through some posts above trying out various things, nada.
I'm going to continue my minor surgery and see, otherwise, guess I need to go back and get a new charging wire.
As Bill Lumbergh would say, grrreeeeeeeeeeeeeaat.
chickswearhats said:
Looks like I'm not the only one with this issue. I feel like a doctor making a diagnosis.
Have had my Prime for about 7 mos. Got the docking station about two months ago, been working like a charm. I did notice lately that the charger block got warm when plugged in and both tablet and dock were charging. I didn't have anything else plugged into the outlet.
Last night I noticed it was being temperamental, it made the battery connection noise and showed the connection pop-up on the screen. Then I noticed on and off last night it kept going on and off. Finally it stayed on. When I checked it hours later, the dock hadn't charged a bit.
I did the computer test for the tablet, it reads it on USB and from what I could tell, it did charge up the tablet. Figured it was maybe the block. I tried charging it from the wall with JUST the dock. It worked for a minute as I saw the red light, then it went off again.
Replaced the block itself, nothing. Tried bending the pins out a bit on old one, nothing. Won't even charge the tablet now.
What is baffling to me is how the tablet shows when it's connected to the comp, with the SAME wire...
I looked through some posts above trying out various things, nada.
I'm going to continue my minor surgery and see, otherwise, guess I need to go back and get a new charging wire.
As Bill Lumbergh would say, grrreeeeeeeeeeeeeaat.
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The wires that connect power are not the same that transmit data. You could easily break one and not (yet) the other.
whycali said:
The wires that connect power are not the same that transmit data. You could easily break one and not (yet) the other.
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Yeah, true. This all is just a pain in the arse. It shouldn't, IMO, be doing this after only 7 mos.
chickswearhats said:
Yeah, true. This all is just a pain in the arse. It shouldn't, IMO, be doing this after only 7 mos.
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If it makes you feel any better my daughter goes through 2 power cords and 4 pair of headphones a year on her iphone.
whycali said:
If it makes you feel any better my daughter goes through 2 power cords and 4 pair of headphones a year on her iphone.
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Actually, that does make me feel a tiny bit better.
Sidenote: Guess I'm going to just take this block back to Best Buy and get a whole new cord. I could probably call Asus, but I'm not sure that would be of any help.
Before I begin, if there is already a thread outlining this particular problem, I apologize in advance.
Yesterday my Truesmart was in the charging cradle sitting on my desk, not realizing it, I accidentally opened a draw which pulled on the USB cable, dragging my Truesmart off of the desk and onto the floor. My truesmart fell about 2 feet and is fine, but the charging cradle will no longer charge it. I would assume that something broke in the cradle when it fell, which justifies the pathetic quality of it, although there is no visual damage on the cradle and when shaken nothing rattles around inside of the cradle.
My question is what should I do now? I am almost certain that it is the cradle that is the problem and not the Truesmart or the USB as the watch will still turn on and the USB will charge other devices. I have tried different power sources and different USBs and I only have one cradle. Is there anything I should troubleshoot in order to try and get the cradle working? Or is is possible that the problem is with the watch?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The spring contacts in the cradle may have gotten smushed in a bit by the impact. Try prying them up gently with like a needle.
Otherwise, the solders connecting the microUSB connector inside the cradle might have failed. They have been reported to be of poor quality on another owner's cradle with cold solders. Try resoldering them if probing them shows them not good connections anymore.
Thirdly, maybe your USB cable itself was damaged in the drop. Test it too.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I tried what you suggested with the needle and it didn't make any difference, they seem to be at the right position anyway.
I have a feeling it might be the solders, as it is possible that the sudden shock of the microUSB inside of the port caused something to break. Unfortunately I do not have any knowledge of soldering nor the equipment to do it. I wouldn't know how to open up the cradle without breaking it anyway.
I already tested the USB cable, it charges anything else, and I have tried other USBs with the Truesmart to make sure that it is infact the cradle.
I have sent Magan (may or may not have spelt her name right) two emails and have received no response.
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
I've been thinking of replacing the spring contacts with actual pogo pins. It's silly that the charger doesn't utilize them to begin with.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
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I am aware but I figured it was worth a shot since my order was missing a keychain that I was told would ship "soon".
I might look into taking it into a shop, how much did it cost you to do that? And I didn't understand your last sentence.
He mistyped "dollar store".
Apparently they have such cheap budget shops up in Canada too. I get my colored USB cables from them, they say, " Made in China" on them and generally last a couple of weeks.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
rhineymac said:
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
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I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
SkyHawkTech said:
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
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I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Agent. said:
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
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the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
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I'm pretty sure mine is the female USB port too, as my watch was plugged in when it fell so I assume the shock of the male USB caused it to break. Your guess is as good as mine as to if they ever plan on actually fulfilling their promises, they have done a pretty crummy job thus far. The charger is absolute junk, at least if we had the charging cable they initially promised we might be able to work with it a bit more.
trent999 said:
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
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That isn't a bad idea for a temporary fix but the fact that it even comes down to doing something like that is absurd in my opinion, the charger should have been done and ready while they were dealing with all of the other BS issues.
Well, remember that for most owners the charging cradle they received works fine. It is not that poorly designed - mostly failures reported have been due to shoddy assembly. Similarly careless assembly has been reported on the watch itself in various areas.
I got my extra charger I ordered via Kickstarter, included in the package, but have never tested it nor needed to. I also figured out a way to charge the spare battery with an Anker universal charger, just in case. That charger came free with a couple of VGNexus batteries I bought from Amazon.
You might have better luck with the USB port repair staying fixed if you support its attachment to the board, such as it is, with an application of SuperGlue prior to resoldering the connections.
Holding a cable connector in place via only the contact solders would always be a bad design though.
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