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Hello, my atrix 4g has a problem currently with the audio jack. I find that when I plug my headphone in the audio jack, only the left side is working. It needs a little tap on the jack to the right side to make both work.
It can play okay when I'm not moving, but if I'm moving, it again moves and it goes left ear only. Is there any way to fix this?
EDIT: I think this belongs to the Q/A subforum, could mods please move it? Sorry for inconveniences.
Okay, I think I fixed it, the metal connectors within the audio socket were not making proper contact. I used stapler pins (http://i.imgur.com/uX1FF4s.jpg), straightened on end completely leaving the other end slightly crooked, (like a hook) then tried to pull the connectors up a little bit.
The staple pins provided damage control as they themselves got straighten out if I pull too hard, hence preventing damage to the connectors. I used several stapler pins to get the job done, now works perfectly.
I used two stapler pins, still stuck together for more rigidity and better grip for myself.
Leaving this here incase another user has a similar problem to mine!
Hi guys,
I've been looking for a couple of weeks now how to solve the problem with both the microphones not working on my Xperia U st25i.
After trying everything I've read about this topic (disabling the live wallpapers, Live Manager, soft reset, repair with PCCompanion, etc) I haven't been able to find a solution. So I ask a friend of mine, that has the same model, if I could disassembly his phone and try to connect the bottom part (where the primary microphone is allocated) to my phone to see if at least my primary mic would work. When I was at the point of disassembling the bottom part of his phone I saw that the ribbon connected to the phone could break so I decided not to go any further. So I reassembled his phone and the result was that now his primary mic isn't working. So now I have one phone with both microphones not working and another one with the primary microphone not working.
Anyone knows what could I have done disassembling my friend's phone to break the primary microphone?
Thanks
Ok guys, I've finally figured out. Turns out usually the zif connector has a black plate that holds the connector in place, but for some reason this two phones didn't have it. So the solution was to bend a little downwards the little pins above the ribbon so they can make contact to the ribbon itself. Now the mics are working.
SOLVED.
purchased 2 of those devices specifically to use for tethering, need a device with wm6.5 and unfortunately can't use it since it can't pick up any signal from my routers or iphone or bluetooth tethering.
i can have this thing sitting on top of wifi ap and still get no signal. does anyone have any sort of a fix for it? thanks !
tried updating to RUU_Leo_1_5_TMOUS_3.14.531.1_Radio_15.42.50.11U_2.15.50.14_LEO_1.5_Ship but it error out
my rom is 3.14.405.2
vnikulin said:
purchased 2 of those devices specifically to use for tethering, need a device with wm6.5 and unfortunately can't use it since it can't pick up any signal from my routers or iphone or bluetooth tethering.
i can have this thing sitting on top of wifi ap and still get no signal. does anyone have any sort of a fix for it? thanks !
tried updating to RUU_Leo_1_5_TMOUS_3.14.531.1_Radio_15.42.50.11U_2.15.50.14_LEO_1.5_Ship but it error out
my rom is 3.14.405.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would assume they have been opened for repair & not assembled correctly.
Usual issue for wifi/BT is coax cable not clipped into brass connectors correctly.
ideally you need pull back cover off & check the cables that rundown side near volume button.
also check all spring fingers on mainboard that contact on arial tabs of rear housing are present & correct position to contact.
Many people snap the spring fingers off the mainboard with rough handling & don't clip the coax cables in properly.
Also worth noting you have a power setting for wifi so that needs setting to max to help maximise range.
Use over 20 HD'2 in my work enviroment & wifi is perfectly good enough & they make a great wifi router/tetherer with wmwifirouter
thanks !
to pull back cover i need to use heatgun? i used setting for max power w/o any result
To remove rear cover you don't use heatgun.
Pull battery, sim & memory card, remove all screws.
Use a plastic pry tool to loosen edges top & sides
*do not push any tools in around volume button area*
Main trick is to start at top as top has 2 good clips either side of speaker grill
once top showing signs of release work round side without volume key & once this shows signs of coming off it very easy.
Do not use metal tools, screwdriver as cause horrendous damage
Take care as many things are easily broken with poor handling.
Cover clips back very easily.
Specific to KGL
I've had the KGL variant for a couple of weeks. Since I've had my share of Chinese Android devices of all sorts - I kind of knew what to expect in terms of software.. so I wasn't really disappointed BUT... the hands free in this unit was simply unusable... After getting my wife totally upset and my friends pissed at me for calling them using the unit I knew something had to be done.
So I took it apart.
Being that I'm skilled in electronics and pretty much hands-on, I figured out the problem pretty fast. Or should I say "problems" in plural?
Let me start by saying that if you have the KGL variant and suffer from extreme noise bleeding into the mic - there is no software workaround. You either need to send it back and get something else or open and modify it like I did.
Second - the hardware in this thing is of such low quality, and the design is so bad, it makes me cry. I estimate the production cost of this unit is under $50. Pretty pretty low... even for Chinese stuff.
So.. what's the story with the mic noise, you ask? very simple. The mic signal from the front panel is routed unshielded from a small PCB attached to the panel, via 3 PCBs and 2 ribbon cables, for over 15" until it arrives at the Bluetooth module MIC input. On the way, it picks up so much electrical noise and interference it's almost a miracle that you hear anything but static noise. When an external mic is plugged it, the front panel mic is NOT disconnected. Both are electrically connected in parallel which is unheard of (very bad practice). The Bluetooth module is thus responsible for MIC bias and preamp. The BT module is of unknown source and it's hard to tell what quality to expect there (not much, as we all know). Noise cancellation? echo cancellation? forget it!
Now - we know android needs an audio input - we can have some voice activation on the unit, right? so how is it done? simple! the signal from the BT mic input line is run back to the front panel and into a Wolfson CODEC. Just like that... so that the Android audio in would also suffer from the above issues.
This also explains the exact nature of the unit's BT implementation - the handsfree is not done by the Android - it's completely handled by the BT module. BT module has MIC in, AUDIO out (that goes to the BD37534 audio mixer chip) and RS232 control signals that communicate with the Android BT application for User Interface (probably via AT commands).
When you run an Android app that uses audio input - it comes from the Wolfson CODEC but it's essentialy the same lousy MIC signal that the BT also gets.
BUT!!!
I've made some modifications and lo and behold - I can make a good quality phone conversation now! and the google apps have somewhat better performance too... but it did require me to completely mess up the internal wiring and obviously void the priceless warranty
So after I've figured it out - I decided I needed to do the following:
- Give up the option to work with two mics at the same time and opt for the external mic only for voice calls
- Cut and bypass the original traces since they pick up so much noise
- Add a separate input jack for the external microphone since it was not feasible to cut the lines going into the original one
I started by installing the extra jack on the rear panel. Then I removed a jumper 0ohm resistor at the MIC input to the BT module, disconnecting the MIC input from the circuit. I ran a piece of shielded wire from the new jack to the MIC input signal pin ON the BT board. That completed the hands-free modification.
In order for the Android to have some audio input, I then moved to the front panel, and first installed a 0Ohm jumper that was missing by the WM8731 CODEC. This resistor connects the MIC BIAS pin to the MIC input - it is required when using an electret microphone. I then made a cut in the trace from the front panel microphone to the small PCB connector, and ran a piece of shielded wire from the mic terminals to the WM8731 MIC input.
Now the front mic is only for Android (voice commands etc) and the external mic serves hands free.. I could have probably added some smarter electronics but I don't think it would have added anything to the usage experience.
Let me know if anyone is interested in some pictures I've taken and I will upload.
Crappy piece of equipment but at least now it works.
All the best,
Nir
...
Moderation note form dark alex:
these are pictures which belong to dnts' tutorial and research
harlequin69 said:
Great work and thank you for sharing. I can follow most of what you did there except for adding the jumper to the CODEC due to electret mic use, do you have any pics of this? also why did you choose to use both mics in the end? would it not be better to use the external mic for both BT and android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding external mic for both BT and Android - here is the catch - you need to add a buffer (amplifier circuit) to the mic signal before sending it to two destinations (BT and CODEC) otherwise you will get that awful noise back. The microphones have a high output impedance which makes them prone to electrical noise. Even if you run them using shielded wire to two locations - you will be picking up noise via the ground signal due to the high impedance.
So to keep things simple (for now) I opted for separate mics, with the higher quality one for calls.
As for the required jumper, I attached a pic. The red circle around the empty pads shows where you need to put a short. The green line shows where you would connect the internal mic. Either pad works (they are shorted on the PCB).
Nir
Specific for KGL
From the top of my head.. sorry for that.. Please use pics in my previous posts.
1. Remove unit. Remove screws holding front panel to the chassis (this varies from one car model to another - mine is KIA Sportage).
2. Carefully lay down front panel. Take notice of the two ribbon cables and don't pull them
3. Remove chassis top cover (2 side screws and one screw on the back).
4. Remove optical drive - 4 screws hold it in place. Carefully disconnect ribbon cable.
5. Install 3.5mm mono jack on the rear panel - 2 holes are available for that (those reserved for DTV antenna). Wire a piece of shielded conductor to the jack, shield going to the part touching the chassis (sleeve) and internal conductor going to the "tip" contact.
6. Locate BT module. It will be at the right side of the chassis (eyeing from front), close to the front end of the PCB.
7. Near the BT module, on the main PCB, locate the component marked "C32". It should be marked "0". Remove it. This is a jumper connecting the BT MIC input to the microphones.
8. Connect the other end of the shielded conductor to the BT module to the pin labeled "MIC+". Do if from the back size of the module. Secure the shielded wire in several places so it doesn't loose up over time.
At this point, the external mic will be the only source for BT audio in. It should (obviously) connected to the new jack we installed.
9. Locate the PCB holding the microphone to the front panel. Locate the PCB trace from the lower microphone terminal (the other terminal is connected to the ground plane of the PCB). make a cut to that trace.
10. Prepare another shielded conductor. connect shied to the mic terminal that is grounded (top one) and the internal conductor to the terminal connected to the trace we just cut. (please see picture titled "front mic").
11. Locate WM8731 CODEC chip. Identify missing "R45" pads (only vacant pads near the WM8731 chip). Make a jumper using some solder and a piece of wire. This calls for delicate soldering.
12. Connect other end of mic conductor to the pad of R42 and R45 further away from WM8731 (please see picture titled "CODEC connection")
13. Put everything back together - start with ribbon for the optical drive, 4 screws for the drive, top cover of chassis and front panel. Make sure, before securing the front panel, that the two ribbon cables are well connected and have not moved or shifted inside their connectors.
14. Cross fingers and connect back to power.
You're done.
Nir
Relax, don't do it!
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Specific for JY
tomc99 said:
I did find a capacitor linking the BT module on my JY unit, but removing it didn't give me the results I needed, so that's when I moved to cutting the leg on the BT module.
I seem to get some bias at the microphone socket - maybe a little low, from memory around 1.7 volts, but no audio whatsoever.
A little bit of a mystery to me is that after cutting the leg on the module the internal mic is now virtually clear of all buzzing that was evident beforehand.
I may spend a few hours this weekend and set it up on my bench power supply and have a better play with it.
Tom.
Sent from my GT-N5100 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
dgcruzing said:
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm with you pal. This is pretty confusing, especially when you take into account the different models of the head units. I want to improve my mic, but I don't want to mess up and make it worse.
If anyone with a joying unit wants to put together an idiots guide to this mod, I would send a huge thank you your way. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tdopko said:
Specific for JY
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I did my soldering too. I found that my microphone is on pin connection infront of BT module and it is connected through c102 jumper. So i cut that microphone and solder it on back of BT module on mic+ and mic-. Problem is that when I call the internal mic is on and external is not working or is off. I am not sure if the external mic was ever on and I did talk thorough internal mic. Can you just tell me what did you solder to what?
Thank you
dsa8310 said:
I have followed the microphone recipe in post #3964, and here is my experience:
Separation between the Android internal mic and the hands-free external mic is definitely a great solution. With the external mic connected directly to the BT module (and capacitor C32 removed) people tell me that they cannot say that I am using hands-free - the call quality has become that good.
Connecting the internal mic directly to the CODEC chip - not a good idea, unless you have proper tools and you know what you are doing. In fact, Skype and Google Search, both work beautifully with no need for any further change.
Beware, the image in post #3971 , detailing where to connect the mic IS WRONG! The mic should be connected where the strap between the two empty pads is made (in order to have the mic powered with chip's bias voltage). Only the pad at the left end of the green line is OK for mic connection.
I had to redo the soldering, after looking up the chip's pin-out, and this was the end of my empty pads... (overheating with improper tools). With no bias voltage, I could no longer connect the mic directly.
And since I had already cut the mic trace on board, I couldn't reconnect my internal mic, other than using a shielded wire which went outside the unit and into the available external mic socket. Thanks Huifei for your thoughtful design!
And now, my internal mic, even wired through the external mic socket, works perfectly for Android. I got lucky...
So, my advice, stick to the first part of the recipe, it's a must for phone quality hands-free calls, but relax, don't do it - the second part calls for trouble and seems unnecessary, really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you all for the very useful information that you give us every day,
I am owner of a KLD. Specifically a Witson A7047.
I ask you please to be able to summarize in detail the operations to be done in order to make the modification of the microphone.
As I understand, I should find the capacitor C32 and remove it.
I miss, however, the passage for connecting external microphone.
Excuse my trivial question, but understand little of electronics and I have to carry the equipment by the technician. Obviously I will have to explain what to do.
Thanks for the answer
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Aender84 said:
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The external mic is better than the internal, but it is still not great. It makes a lot of electrical noise on the other end if the phone call. There are some instructions for mic mod here, but I have also read that the joying units are a little different than those details here. I haven't tried it yet, so I can't help any more than that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Aender84 said:
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I am aware of. It would have to be routed through the Android unit somehow. Otherwise it wouldn't switch automatically when you receive a call. That is if it can even be done at all. I suspect that the Bluetooth module was in the stock radio unit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Aender84 said:
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure about that? Maybe yours is different than mine. I have the jbl, non-nav unit. I can't access anything to do with the Bluetooth now that I've removed the head unit.
If you're only saying that he can wire the original microphone into the Android unit, that may be possible. It's the same as wiring any external microphone I guess.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have not possibility to hardware mod.
No software mod can help me?if i buy a bt mic?or bt handfree kit?
Inviato dal mio SM-G920F utilizzando Tapatalk
Hello i have a eonon car stereo running android 444 fuse rom i can only pick up 3 stations and they sometimes loose reception ive tried an amplifier and new eariel but with no luck any suggestions would be great.
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
Geekybiker said:
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a Renault Megane and is just a standard connector.
Im now beginning to think its the components on the motherboard as the closer i get to the sauce eg: im from Wigan were Wish FM is broadcast if i drive past the studio its crystal clear same with Key 103 in Manchester. I think the radio chip on these is crap.
I think you need a power injector, because the antenna is active and needs power to work correctly. Just put the power injector between the radio and the antenna and connect the blue cable with the AMP or ANT cable of the radio harness...
Gesendet von meinem D6503 mit Tapatalk
I've had the same issue and solved it fortunately.
My Unit is a Joying RK3188 and came with a defect dual input power injector.
Easy steps to identify: At the output of these injectors (called 'phantomspeisung' in german) you sould measue 12V DC. These 12VDC sent over the 2pol antenna cable are for the antenna built in amplifier.
1st: I replaced the power injector with a diversity injector. Google for "Diversity Adapter 204.086-0) www.rta-online.com
2nd: Additionally to my amplified roof antenna I bought a second amplified antenna at amazon
http://www.amazon.de/Baseline-Conne...enne+AM,FM,+inkl.+Verstärker,+FAKRA-Stecker+F
Both together I've a really good reception now.
The diversity adapater really makes it's job. I is a littel high in price but worth at all.
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
pounce said:
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
markusmuster said:
...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If putting insulating tape just around the plug where it would touch the housing (and not where the actual plug needs to mate up) gave you worse reception... you did something wrong.
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
dazza007 said:
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
pounce said:
Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
dazza007 said:
When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Joying units. One of the 10.1" universal units with 3188 and a 7" universal unit with 3188. No idea about the specifics of the chips.
If you have a specific hardware unit that people are complaining about then you may have a problem with that unit from that manufacturer. That's realistic, but try the other tests first before performing surgery.
Problem is most likely a internal problem with the ground of the antenna input. This was the problem with my unit.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=55279871&postcount=3266
...
This is great. It really helps illustrate how people are interpret things differently.
You have put too much tape on the connector. You have essentially broken the connection by entirely covering the outer connector. It may not be been obvious to you that a motorola antenna connector needs contact on the pointy post and the outer shell.
What you wanted to do I carefully put just a little tape on the plug where is could touch the case of the unit in a circumstance where the alignment of the female connector inside the case attached to the PCB isn't perfectly centered for the case hole. When things are out of alignment there tends to be a connection between between case and the outer shell of the connector. When these things touch it can negatively impact reception.
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate. I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
I also read several threads about that "put some tape on it" thing and heard dozens of interpretations.
A picture tells more than some thousand words.
To clarify that to all of us: Please be so kind and make some photos !
Thanks in advance!
markusmuster said:
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To illustrate how you did it?
I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
pounce said:
To illustrate how you did it?
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
jakejm79 said:
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may have read up thread.
1) Check the connections like power for the antenna if you have that
2) check the plug to see if its contacting the case. Tape as needed.
3) Open the case and validate the connection to the female socket on the PCB.
4) Check your MCU firmware
5) Try another unit
This whole tape thing has me so confused. The outer shell of the Motorola plug has to touch the casing for earthing doesn't it? Yet you are saying to tape up only the bits that are touching the casing.
Totally confused.
Can someone put up a picture of what is the right way to tape it please.
I would have done exactly the same as markusmuster has in the pics.
Thanks