I had previously made a wireless charging car dock by combining the internals from the LG wcp-700 with an iBolt Alumina ProDock, it worked well for me but wasn't pretty and required 120v power. I had 120v power in my work truck, but I needed a solution for the wife's car, which doesn't.
So, I was finally able to pick up a couple of the Nokia dt-900 charging pads. They were out of stock everywhere around me so eBay was kind enough to provide some for me.
To start, I popped open the nokia charger and it looks like this. The board and charging coils are all one unit that is fastened with screws to the base of the pad.
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I needed to lose the base to save the thickness, so I removed the screws and used 3m mounting tape to hold the board/coils to the face of the pad.
Then I removed the small cover plate from the car dock, again to save thickness. Never mind all the holes cut in the car dock, that was for the previous version.
Then I just used more 3m mounting tape to hold the charging par to the dock, and this is what we have. All that's left is to wire it up to 12v power, it only takes .75a so you won't need anything special. I wired off of the constant power for the stereo with an inline fuse. I wanted constant power so the phone could charge with the key off.
Not exactly elegant, but it's much better than my last version. The reason for all the thickness reduction was so that the arms of the car dock would be long enough to hold the phone with a case on it, an Otterbox Commuter case to be exact. And it works quite well, here a video of me testing with the wife's phone in the case. It's a little awkward to get in the dock because with the case, it's a very snug fit in this dock, definitely wouldn't hold anything larger.
http://youtu.be/Wl3ZFquNqJE
So, I think it worked out okay and was pretty simple to do. It's a little costly with the dock being $30 and the charger being $50, but it's worth it to me to save plugging the phone in 10 or more times a day. I have had more than a couple phones usb ports get broken from abuse over the years, so if I can reduce that risk and add some usefulness, I certainly will.
Really nice job:good: I'm curious how it does on charging? I guess what i want to know is does it actually charge well when streaming music using nav and say making a call heavy load i guess ????
Looks awesome! Nice work. Two questions though -- what brand of dock is that and where did you get it?
I'm currently using the Nokia charger in my car with a power inverter. That works fine enough for me and I intend to stick with it rather than hard wiring. However, my mounting solution leaves something to be desired. I'm using an Exomount right now. I just put the Nokia pad in between the clamps and then set the phone over it. It works okay when driving, but each time I take the phone out, the Nokia falls out as well. Would love to pick up the same mount you have.
Thanks for the kind words, as far as charging speed goes, it's about equal to the cheap car chargers. I have no problem streaming Pandora all day and taking 20-30 bluetooth calls through the stereo. I don't use navigation much, but I think if you were running nav while streaming with the screen on high brightness, you would be lucky to hold power.
The dock is from iBolt, called the Prodock Alumina. It's about $30 on Amazon right now, that and a little mounting tape is all you'll need.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
I too cracked open my nokia charger just to see what the insides were like(we all do this right?). Its basically the same insides as the palm touchstones, but just much larger, in the palm charger it was a small coil, maybe 1" in diameter. So it got me thinking, as they were both basically the same coil, just exactly how hard would it be to create your own coil. Like say you use that charger, find whatever wire you would use for this application, remove the existing coils and splice in your own. I need to research a little more, mainly what type of wire is needed, but it looks like you could maybe splice into the existing wires from the nokia board and just make your own, larger coil. I would try, but I don't want to mess around too much with my $50 charger lol.
From my understanding the tech isn't too complicated, its just an alternating magnetic field between the charger and phone that is what does the actual charging. Its not some magical stuff, just a current running through a wire. Maybe the larger the coil the bigger the current need, I don't know, anyone else want to try this
rhettnis said:
I too cracked open my nokia charger just to see what the insides were like(we all do this right?). Its basically the same insides as the palm touchstones, but just much larger, in the palm charger it was a small coil, maybe 1" in diameter. So it got me thinking, as they were both basically the same coil, just exactly how hard would it be to create your own coil. Like say you use that charger, find whatever wire you would use for this application, remove the existing coils and splice in your own. I need to research a little more, mainly what type of wire is needed, but it looks like you could maybe splice into the existing wires from the nokia board and just make your own, larger coil. I would try, but I don't want to mess around too much with my $50 charger lol.
From my understanding the tech isn't too complicated, its just an alternating magnetic field between the charger and phone that is what does the actual charging. Its not some magical stuff, just a current running through a wire. Maybe the larger the coil the bigger the current need, I don't know, anyone else want to try this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
JTNiggle said:
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed the nokia charger has decent amount of give when it comes to placement. For future reference, the size of the sweet spot on my wooden nightstand is 6.5"x3.5", and keep in my that's all while going through what id say is probably 1/8" of wood, and the fit isn't exactly flush with the bottom of the board. The size of the spot is great for easy placement considering the DNA is just a little over 5.5"x2.5", so I have nearly 1" of space to play with.
Id like to see someone find how large the "sweet spot" is for a single coil while going through different materials too. That way we can find out how much area a single coil can cover or see if overlapping them(like the nokia) can make a difference in terms of area coverage. So that way if we ever want to create something like an entire charging surface on a desk we can know if a single large coil would be need, or just a few well placed small coils would be suffice.
I might post a picture stand, but its not pretty lol. It was just something is just decided to do on a whim, and is still a little rough, but it works really well.
Comparing the Nokia 3 coils to the LG 1 coil, it's obvious that the LG sucks.
The LG pad is probably .75" larger than the phone in each direction, but I only have about .25" of forgiveness from center. It's a pretty small sweet spot. This is with a commuter case on though, I'm sure it's better naked. Because of this, I switched to the Nokia dt-910 for the night stand, plus it holds the phone up so I can see my alarm to hit the snooze.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
Curious how you are powering this JTNiggle?
I know the pad gets 12v from the included charging brick. Do you have a regulated 12v source? Or does the charging pad seem to deal with the 14+V you get while your car is running? If it can deal with the extra voltage, that'd be pretty awesome. Just a straight wire to either a CIG plug for portability or even to a fused source for permanent install.
I really want to make something like this. I never use the charging pad for many of the reasons listed around the net. Esp for end of the day things when my battery is pretty low and I want to keep using. I have found some regulated DC-DC set ups. The ones that come with multiple tips...but I havent checked to see if one will fit the charging pad.
Oh..one other question... When you assembled the charging pad, is the 3M tape between the cover and the coils? Or is it between the cover and the back of the board. If its between the cover and coils, do you think you could get it back apart again if you wanted or would it destroy the coils?
J.
ghettocruiser said:
Curious how you are powering this JTNiggle?
I know the pad gets 12v from the included charging brick. Do you have a regulated 12v source? Or does the charging pad seem to deal with the 14+V you get while your car is running? If it can deal with the extra voltage, that'd be pretty awesome. Just a straight wire to either a CIG plug for portability or even to a fused source for permanent install.
I really want to make something like this. I never use the charging pad for many of the reasons listed around the net. Esp for end of the day things when my battery is pretty low and I want to keep using. I have found some regulated DC-DC set ups. The ones that come with multiple tips...but I havent checked to see if one will fit the charging pad.
Oh..one other question... When you assembled the charging pad, is the 3M tape between the cover and the coils? Or is it between the cover and the back of the board. If its between the cover and coils, do you think you could get it back apart again if you wanted or would it destroy the coils?
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's wired direct, in line with the stereo constant power. I only see 12.6 to 13.1 volts there, the pad has had zero trouble.
The mounting tape is between the coils and the face as well as between the board and the car dock. The tape isn't that strong, it's rated for about 2lbs with a 4" strip and only used 1.5". I was able to disassemble the first version vairly easy.
Sent from the Home Depot toilet
JTNiggle said:
I had previously made a wireless charging car dock by combining the internals from the LG wcp-700 with an iBolt Alumina ProDock, it worked well for me but wasn't pretty and required 120v power. I had 120v power in my work truck, but I needed a solution for the wife's car, which doesn't.
So, I was finally able to pick up a couple of the Nokia dt-900 charging pads. They were out of stock everywhere around me so eBay was kind enough to provide some for me.
To start, I popped open the nokia charger and it looks like this. The board and charging coils are all one unit that is fastened with screws to the base of the pad.
I needed to lose the base to save the thickness, so I removed the screws and used 3m mounting tape to hold the board/coils to the face of the pad.
Then I removed the small cover plate from the car dock, again to save thickness. Never mind all the holes cut in the car dock, that was for the previous version.
Then I just used more 3m mounting tape to hold the charging par to the dock, and this is what we have. All that's left is to wire it up to 12v power, it only takes .75a so you won't need anything special. I wired off of the constant power for the stereo with an inline fuse. I wanted constant power so the phone could charge with the key off.
Not exactly elegant, but it's much better than my last version. The reason for all the thickness reduction was so that the arms of the car dock would be long enough to hold the phone with a case on it, an Otterbox Commuter case to be exact. And it works quite well, here a video of me testing with the wife's phone in the case. It's a little awkward to get in the dock because with the case, it's a very snug fit in this dock, definitely wouldn't hold anything larger.
http://youtu.be/Wl3ZFquNqJE
So, I think it worked out okay and was pretty simple to do. It's a little costly with the dock being $30 and the charger being $50, but it's worth it to me to save plugging the phone in 10 or more times a day. I have had more than a couple phones usb ports get broken from abuse over the years, so if I can reduce that risk and add some usefulness, I certainly will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great Job...Glad to see more interested in expanding the wireless charging spots. have a question about you running power to constant power, did you put a power switch between that connection? The pads etc do draw power even when not in use, they just use less then say a a/c wall adapter for old way of charging.
It's like any electronic that can be controlled by a remote, even though the unit is off, it stills draws power to be on standby to be able to receive the remote command. As these pads are always looking for that Handshake to start sending power to receiver of the Wireless Charger. This is the only way it would be able to activate itself....Eventually draining your vehicle battery....
Thanks and good luck...
---------- Post added at 01:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
JTNiggle said:
I'd be interested to try something like this, trying to create a bigger "sweet spot" for the phone to rest. The Nokia version, as you all can see has 3 coils and it is pretty forgiving as to placement. The LG version on the other hand only has one coil, and in my experience was a bit temperamental about phone placement, especially with a case on it. You'd have to find out what the exact spec is for the wire, then you could freely experiment with different sized coils. I have no idea if this wire is special so someone smarter would need to figure that out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the only units that would be able to have a larger area to accept charging is the multi coiled pads. The simple basics for Induction Power is that the Receiving Coil is of Exact Size of the Transmitting Coil. This was proven by Tesla over 100 years ago and hasn't changed that Basic need since then.
The Palm Touchstone coil in battery cover is just under the size of the Charger Disc you put the phone on. The Touchstones don't have a circuit board in the design as do other Designs which is needed to do the Handshake between the receiver and Transmitter parts so that charging begins in order to make this safe and not activate by something metal etc coming in contact with the charger.
Like placing a induction abled phone on a Induction Cooktop, it will detect that it is induction and metal parts inside the phone and it may start up but then shut down which is a Good thing for your phone not becoming a melted hunk of junk...LOL...
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
ghettocruiser said:
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, Sorry their are people out there that refuse to listen or believe Tested Facts and push their own Opinions as Facts...lol...Below I got the info for you from the Qi standard Group and other Groups also supply the Technical Specs on this Technology...Enjoy..
*********************************************************************
Wireless Power Efficiency
The energy consumption of battery chargers has two main contributors: charging efficiency and standby power consumption.
STANDBY POWER CONSUMPTION
Unfortunately, many people leave the chargers and cradles connected to mains power when the charger is not used. The standby power consumption (also called “no-load power consumption”) is significant. A simple calculation shows that power consumed in standby mode is about the same as the energy consumed when loading the battery.
We assume that many people will also keep their wireless battery chargers continuously plugged into the mains. One of our main design goals was, therefore, minimize standby power. Go low!
We did go low. In the mean time we have demonstrated a system with only 0.0001 Watt (100 µW) standby power consumption. And that is probably not the bottom.
An estimate of power consumption by wireless chargers.
WHAT ABOUT WIRELESS CHARGERS?
Our wireless chargers also contain an AC-DC power adapter. Let’s assume that is has the same efficiency (72%). Let’s also assumes that it has the same standby power (0.12 W). [footnote: Wireless chargers can have a much lower standby power, but this keeps the comparison easier.] The transfer efficiency of the wireless power link is typically 70%. And assume that the wireless charger replaces 2 wired chargers. The total energy consumption is:
•charging: 1 hours * 4 W / 72% / 70% = 7.9 Wh (we are now charging 2 devices simultaneously)
•standby (no load): 23 hours * 0.12 W = 2.8 Wh
http://www.wirelesspowerconsortium.com/technology/total-energy-consumption.html
---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ----------
http://www.a4wp.org/Business White Paper - A4WP.pdf
http://www.a4wp.org/IEEE IMS2012 LC WPT Technical Paper.pdf
http://www.a4wp.org
Here is a Company I have done Business with for years with My Business, they have The modules for Auto, Furniture and My Favorite I've been using, Wireless charging for Drill Cases and tools on the Shelves in my Company Vans....
http://www.leggettecoupled.com/
ghettocruiser said:
Someone put a kila-watt device on a charging pad, and said that it drew 0 across the board until the phone was placed on it. Here's the link.
http://forums.wpcentral.com/nokia-l...ing-plate-not-power-vampire-thanks-nokia.html
Hoping that is true, because I wasnt going to put a switch on mine in the car. I still think I might just install a cig plug on mine in case I take my wifes car and want the mount. But maybe Ill get a cig plug with a switch built in so I dont have to unplug. I have a jetta...so it has all sorts of power feeds that act in different ways (always on, on with key, on for a timed period, etc).
I was just concerned about seeing the close to or over 14 volts when running. But its sounding like that might not be an issue. I measured the output of the wireless pad's power brick and it was a pretty constant 12.19 volts. I cant wait to tinker with this.
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
easiest way to check if it's still receiving power while the car is off is simply place the phone on the dock and see if it charges with the engine off. if it's wired with the stereo's negative wire as well (you only stated wired to the constant power) than it wont receive power until the car is on acc. or on anyways. that should calm down anyone's fears about it draining the car's battery while you're gone.
ML417 said:
easiest way to check if it's still receiving power while the car is off is simply place the phone on the dock and see if it charges with the engine off. if it's wired with the stereo's negative wire as well (you only stated wired to the constant power) than it wont receive power until the car is on acc. or on anyways. that should calm down anyone's fears about it draining the car's battery while you're gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He wanted to have power always, that's why he chose the constant-on on the head unit which is always hot to keep clock and/or memory or Like My Jeep's Infotainment that has to have a constant on so the Hard drive can shut down properly etc.
But that Kill-a-watt post he read, the guy tested it and it shows 0.00...
***************************************************
The Manual for the Kill-a-Watt ez:
Kilowatt-Hour display:
1. To display the total consumed power in Kilowatt-Hours, press the MENU key until “KWH” is indicated in the display.
2. Consumption will be displayed in Kilowatt-Hours (from 0.01 KWH to 9999 KWH). As KWH accumulate, the decimal point in the display will shift to accommodate a full reading.
*****************************************************
The problem is the reader only reads to a 0.01 kwh which this unit is for Home meter testing of kwh usage times Power company rates...
And the tester needs to read down to: From the test site and results from the lowest possible/available from their design tests:
(we have demonstrated a system with only 0.0001 Watt (100 µW) standby power consumption)
I DEF wont be wiring it to constant on power. It'll be switched. My little insert about my jetta was just me brainstorming...that car has some power circuits that are on timers. So without the keys, you can turn on the stereo for a pre-determinted time, etc. A few more options if I decided to hardwire. Having a switch on the power plug would be nice if I use my wife's car, as both her cig lighters are constant on.
In the end...Ill be wiring mine to a plug so I can move it from car to car easily. Just like a GPS. I just picked up a regulated DC-DC adapter that Im going to test. Says it holds 12 via IC control, and it comes with a tip that SHOULD plug right into the power pad. We'll see. I can always fall back on wiring it straight.
And the link I posted...That guy's test is still pretty useful. Its showing that its not exactly sapping energy when not in use. I guess some other charger power bricks pull some measurable power when left plugged in..? I think .0001 watts is pretty insignificant dont you? Even if wired straight to the battery it would take quite a while to drain it any significant amount. Unless Im misunderstanding things...which happens more than I like to admit
Regardless, it wont be wired to any constant source, at least in my car. So it should be good. I cant wait to get my mount and try to fit everything together. Little projects like this are fun!
J.
ghettocruiser said:
I DEF wont be wiring it to constant on power. It'll be switched. My little insert about my jetta was just me brainstorming...that car has some power circuits that are on timers. So without the keys, you can turn on the stereo for a pre-determinted time, etc. A few more options if I decided to hardwire. Having a switch on the power plug would be nice if I use my wife's car, as both her cig lighters are constant on.
In the end...Ill be wiring mine to a plug so I can move it from car to car easily. Just like a GPS. I just picked up a regulated DC-DC adapter that Im going to test. Says it holds 12 via IC control, and it comes with a tip that SHOULD plug right into the power pad. We'll see. I can always fall back on wiring it straight.
And the link I posted...That guy's test is still pretty useful. Its showing that its not exactly sapping energy when not in use. I guess some other charger power bricks pull some measurable power when left plugged in..? I think .0001 watts is pretty insignificant dont you? Even if wired straight to the battery it would take quite a while to drain it any significant amount. Unless Im misunderstanding things...which happens more than I like to admit
Regardless, it wont be wired to any constant source, at least in my car. So it should be good. I cant wait to get my mount and try to fit everything together. Little projects like this are fun!
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah just find the RAP Fuse etc, (Retain Accessory Power) and connect their...It works great. You may even have the Option like My Jeep does and change the Time-out minutes to suit your needs.....Yeah what he did was Great, and I did give him a Compliment on his work, problem is just that the Kill-a-Watt is for A/C power meter tests/results and the device being tested is D/C power...kWh is a measure of energy, whilst kW is a measure of power...
•a kW is 1000 W and a W is 0.001 kW;
•a kWh is 1000 Wh and a Wh is 0.001 kWh;
•a MW (megawatt) is 1000 kW and a kW is 0.001 MW;
•a MWh (megawatt hour) is 1000 kWh and a kWh is 0.001 MWh
Yeah this is Fun Stuff isn't it???/ LOL...right now I'm doing custom install of a double charger and a single charger, wireless chargers, in my jeep. I'm Hiding the double charger to the underside of the tray inside the center Console and single charger underside of the Tray on Driver's side. You won't be able to see that their is a charger in each location....
Like to see what you do when you get it up and going....
sircody said:
Great Job...Glad to see more interested in expanding the wireless charging spots. have a question about you running power to constant power, did you put a power switch between that connection? The pads etc do draw power even when not in use, they just use less then say a a/c wall adapter for old way of charging.
It's like any electronic that can be controlled by a remote, even though the unit is off, it stills draws power to be on standby to be able to receive the remote command. As these pads are always looking for that Handshake to start sending power to receiver of the Wireless Charger. This is the only way it would be able to activate itself....Eventually draining your vehicle battery....
Thanks and good luck...
---------- Post added at 01:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------
Yeah the only units that would be able to have a larger area to accept charging is the multi coiled pads. The simple basics for Induction Power is that the Receiving Coil is of Exact Size of the Transmitting Coil. This was proven by Tesla over 100 years ago and hasn't changed that Basic need since then.
The Palm Touchstone coil in battery cover is just under the size of the Charger Disc you put the phone on. The Touchstones don't have a circuit board in the design as do other Designs which is needed to do the Handshake between the receiver and Transmitter parts so that charging begins in order to make this safe and not activate by something metal etc coming in contact with the charger.
Like placing a induction abled phone on a Induction Cooktop, it will detect that it is induction and metal parts inside the phone and it may start up but then shut down which is a Good thing for your phone not becoming a melted hunk of junk...LOL...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not have a switch for this charger wired in, I did not see the need. The amount of power that this unit draws while not charging is very minimal and the vehicle is driven daily, so we have not had any trouble. I need to make a second one now to put back in my work truck, where I will just wire in line with the existing 12v accessory outlets as they are on 100% of the time. I just like being able to park the car and leave the phone charging if I need for a few minutes or an hour if necessary. If you have to leave the key on then you have a whole bunch of extra accessories trying to run at the same time and then you may kill your car battery trying to boost your cell battery,
For multi coil wireless chargers, I thing we will eventually see them built into all kinds of things, at least I hope so. We have that JBL charging speaker, which is way overpriced, but a more basic clock radio with charging coils on top would be nice. Not just one spot, but say the whole top had coils in it and you could set the phone anywhere. Laptops could have an area below the number pad with a coil or 3 in it, that would be great too. It seems to be useful enough that a few people here have cut wireless charger into their desk or night stands, obviously there is a desire for the tech to grow, so I'm sure it will only keep growing in the near future. I think I may end up building one into the kitchen counter for the wife, she likes to use the phone for recipes and music, so it would be great if I can find a neutral spot that isn't too likely to get wet.
JTNiggle said:
I do not have a switch for this charger wired in, I did not see the need. The amount of power that this unit draws while not charging is very minimal and the vehicle is driven daily, so we have not had any trouble. I need to make a second one now to put back in my work truck, where I will just wire in line with the existing 12v accessory outlets as they are on 100% of the time. I just like being able to park the car and leave the phone charging if I need for a few minutes or an hour if necessary. If you have to leave the key on then you have a whole bunch of extra accessories trying to run at the same time and then you may kill your car battery trying to boost your cell battery,
For multi coil wireless chargers, I thing we will eventually see them built into all kinds of things, at least I hope so. We have that JBL charging speaker, which is way overpriced, but a more basic clock radio with charging coils on top would be nice. Not just one spot, but say the whole top had coils in it and you could set the phone anywhere. Laptops could have an area below the number pad with a coil or 3 in it, that would be great too. It seems to be useful enough that a few people here have cut wireless charger into their desk or night stands, obviously there is a desire for the tech to grow, so I'm sure it will only keep growing in the near future. I think I may end up building one into the kitchen counter for the wife, she likes to use the phone for recipes and music, so it would be great if I can find a neutral spot that isn't too likely to get wet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check these out...I did this in my remodel about 4 years ago, these units have been available for a few years now...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDAY0GgVDWo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpVl9nHQcnw
Here is the guys that sell it....I was lucky that it's here in Atlanta and My business allowed me to get in on the early stuff...lol
http://ecoupled.com/partners-products/products
Related
Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Good news - you can plug just about anything into it from 9V up to 18V and it should charge it. Theoretically, it should also support step up charging from USB (trickle charge) but I've yet to prove that. (The power management processor supports it, but it might not be in the hardware.)
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
So, if you find a connector that fits it, plug it in. Don't worry about the current draw - as long as it's 1A or GREATER it should work fine (the device won't pull more than an 1A, even though our chargers are spec'd for 2)
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
sunglint said:
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
From Wikipedia:
A second problem is that nominally "Twelve-Volt" power in cars fluctuates widely. The actual voltage will be approximately 12.5 volts when dormant, (less when cold) approximately 14.5 volts when the engine and the alternator/generator are operating, (more when cold) and may briefly drop as low as 5-6 volts during engine start.[7] DC/DC converters will usually compensate for these small fluctuations.[citation needed]
Rarely, more extreme cases of voltage fluctuation can occur when the car battery is disconnected while the engine is running, or when the car receives a jump start. When the battery is disconnected, a load dump transient can produce very high voltages. A car receiving a jump start from a truck will be subject to its 24 V electrical system.[8] A "double battery jump-start" is performed by some tow truck drivers in cold climates.[9]
Design wise one has to take into account intermittent contact, and voltages outside the nominal 12 V DC like top voltage 9-16 V continuously, top voltage at 20 V during 1 hour, 24 V during 1 minute, 40 V during 400 ms.[10] Protection component tolerance example ratings are +50 to -60 V DC[11] Besides this there's also varying temperatures between -40 till +85 °C to contend with that can affect humidity and condensation.[10] Equipment connected this way must tolerate large variations in electrical- and climate environment.
For more, look at table 20-1 in http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/EMC_CS_2009rev1.pdf which is reference [10] in the Wikipedia article. Granted, that's very conservative, but a 1A 12V low drop out regulator is cheap insurance for a piece of kit like our tablets.
Interesting. If you plug in tablet and that part number into Google you get lots of familiar looking pictures:
http://www.kitarm.com/news/205-cortex-a9-nvidia-tegra2-tablet-pc-with-10.html (and the photos are marked with this site: http://www.okpbw.com/).
bnovak said:
Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aasoror said:
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you read the same post I did? His suggestion is that 19V is too high and still needs to be converted.
wd5gnr said:
While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, and thanks for the info. I do ham radio and already know to not plug things in until the car is running, actually learned that from xda years back from cell phone charging. I also use Anderson Powerpoles for the connections, very highly recommend these. This does mean that given the same precautions I already follow I can make up a nice charging cable pretty easily. And I'll certainly look in to the low voltage protection, just in case.
edit:just saw the call sign, 73s!
well unfortunately I can say that this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MYLLCC
doesnt work
actually it might
it just doenst fit......
sigh
My husband just remembered that we bought a power converter years ago to charge a laptop while traveling in Europe.
Would this work without any problems with the Gtab?
Found the model here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jg9JaV...er-Pocket-Inverter-175.html?tab=detailed_info
You mean by plugging in the AC charger to it? Should work fine. The output of the stock charger is about 24W so even if it is grossly inefficient, a 140W power inverter should be fine.
Naturally, I assume no risk, yada yada yada, your mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law.
Hey, if it helps anyone at all, I bought this car adapter from the radio shack and it works well. None of the included tips worked with my Gtab, so I cut the tip off my included wall charger and using two of the adapt-a-plug connectors also available at the shack, I made it so I can use the tip on either my wall charger or my car charger. Just gotta remember to take it with me, and of course get the polarity right. Its a regulated 12 volt charger, so it reduces some of the spikes and drops from the car battery, the amperage is correct, and the on/off switch means you can wait to turn it on until after the car is started. Reduces the amount of plugging and unplugging nicely.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3889594
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
LoganFive said:
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GTab can't be charged via USB
Power Brick
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
greymane98 said:
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another member reported earlier that he has researched the power management chip on the GTab and it will apparently run up 18v, this justify why many has been using the iGO Asus netbook tip successfully for so long.
Now for the woot deal, I wouldn't bother with a "refurbished" item when you can get the tried and working travel adapter for $18 (shipped) and $20 (for the version with the auto and airplane adapter) there is a confirmed tip that fits the gtab included.
http://www.buy.com/listing/sellerlistings.asp?sku=211343528&buy=0
http://www.buy.com/prod/-igo-40w-un...usb-4-power-tips-for/q/loc/101/219613586.html
Best of luck,
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
I've been using an iGo netbook charger for 3 weeks without any problem. I found it on sale at Office Depot for $8 the week before they dropped the GTab price to $300. Three weeks is probably only 7 or 8 charge cycles, but I've paid attention looking for hot spots, etc. and haven't noticed anything. I don't love the stiffness of the cable, but it was $8. I'm not complaining.
My only charging "problem" is that the silly thing wakes up when it hits 100% (VEGAn-TAB Ginger). Having the screen come on at full brightness just when I'm falling asleep was funny the first time, but it's getting annoying that I keep forgetting to power it off.
Dan
wd5gnr said:
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My mistake, I stand corrected, its 18v.
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
hopbros said:
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the end in the tablet itself, or the end with the wire that goes to the wall?
if it's the wire end, you can get new plugs at radioshack. But requires some soldering skill to get them on there.
or you can get a universal 12-18V / 1amp charger with multiple tips.
Hey all, I was looking into getting a car power adapter for hte G-Tab. I looked on Electroniccrap.com, but everything is usually "out of stock." He sells the iGo systems, which Radio Shack also sells. So, I went to my local RS to see what I could find. They didn't have the iGo stuff, but did have enercell converters/adapters, etc.
As I was browsing, I found 2 12VDC car chargers (if you were curious, the "B" plug fits in the G-Tab). But then I noticed a "150W power inverter." It's a car plug that has 3 AC outlets and 1 USB outlet on it. This is ideal for me becuase I usually charge more than one thing when on long trips, GPS, Zune, NDSi, DVD player, and now the G-Tablet. The issue I'm having is that the back of the package said that it's output was 5VDC, typical of most car adapters. I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true? The charger device does have a fuse on it, and some reviews I read (after purchasing, I know) said that it's worked fine for laptops, DVD players, etc. The main complaint is the hum of the cooling fan that's built in.
I briefly tested it today, with my G-Tablet. The battery indicator said it was 100% charged (but we all know that isn't reliable) I didn't take it out of it's case ot see what color the charge light was, but the charge indicator idn't have the lightning bolt in it, indicating a charge.
Does anyone know if she was telling the truth, perhaps? It's a pretty sweet setup, being able ot use AC adapters for all of my devices in the car, if it works as advertised, anyway. I just couldn't imagine why they would create a charger that has 3 5VDC AC outlets on it...
TJEvans said:
I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
The 5VDC on the package is most probably the output of the USB port on the inverter.
The inverter should output 110 (or 220v) AC @ 50/60 hz, else you wont be able to use your wall plug adapters.
True the GTab adapter will output the proper voltage (12v DC 2A), but its input must be 110v (220v) AC.
My advice is not to use inverters for small hand helds : GTab, GPS, MP3 players .. etc.
Instead, use compatible car adapters, if you need more than one, get a splitter for your socket.
By the way, here is a compatible (and cheap) car adapter for the GTab: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Car-Charger-Koda...ccessories&hash=item51998a1f04#ht_1399wt_1341
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
aasoror said:
of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip - bought one!
FWIW, I'm pretty sure the 'girl in the shop' was simply saying that if you plug your 115/220VAC adapter into the inverter, the adapter will produce whatever it produces when plugged into a wall receptacle, which indeed it should so long as the inverter can produce 24W - and she was just following standard retail practice: 'sell what ya got', and the store *had* an inverter.
Seems like an overly complex way to get 12VDC out of a (nominally) 12VDC system when all you probably need is a regulator.
Another option:
http://www.amazon.com/charger-adapt...OQLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307712365&sr=8-1
Only one review, but it's a positive one.
TJEvans said:
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
5V won't work. The power management chip is designed to handle 9 to 18V, but any car charger that is 12V out and fits will be fine.
Go to Radio Shack and buy the coiled Universal Accessory Charger. Its regulated 12V dc @ 2Mah.
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
Sent from my G Harmony v2.4 using XDA Premium App
Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
An inverter may be a good choice for occasional use but probably better to keep everthing DC otherwise.
Make sure the inverter shuts itself off if the cars vehicle voltage gets low(i.e.when it isn't running). You could end up with a dead battery or even a damaged one.
rbrainard said:
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
Kind of nitpicking but cars are not grounded. Ground is literally the electrical potential of the Earth. A bad connection on the power or common(chassis) can cause noise but a sqeal is unlikely. The squeal is almost definately the inverter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
h3llphyre said:
When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's an earlier XB (2006) and only has the one outlet. When the car is in park, the shifter handle is literally about 5 inches away from the outlet. Having the double outlet plugged in, and angled up (adjustable) will allow some room, but then you are unable to grab the shifter.
I'll be driving to DC next Thursday, and wanted a way to power the GPS, G-Tab, e-cig battery charger, and whatever else my son decides to bring with us (NDSi, DVD player, his iPod touch, etc.)
To JJJustmee: The device does shut off when the car is off, so I'm good there. Also, the inverter itself has a fuse on it, so I assume that if overloaded, then the fuse will give on it, before it effects anything on the car. I don't necessarily plan on running all devices at the same time, more like, run the G-Tablet unplugged until the battery decides to start draining really low. The GPS will be running the entire time. Everything else may be charged for a bit, while other devices are no plugged in. I liked the design of this, becuase the car lighter plug is rather short, since there is a 3 foot wire leading to the AC/USB outlets, like a surge protector. It takes up very little room near the car outlet area. The other options that people posted will not work becuase of the space limitations. I could, and have (in the element) use the outlet splitter, then one double USB outlet, to be able ot handle 3 devices at once, but then we're talking about at least 7-8 inches of plastic pluggs sticking out, and into my shift lever...
JJJustMee said:
Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
baenap said:
What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Said it for me.
If it turns off as soon as you turn the key off it means the outlet is switched. Will protect the battery but also means it can't be used for anythihng while the car is off. Good or bad depending on usage. What I was talking about is the device being able to shut off when battery voltage goes below, say, 11.6v. Fuse and circuit breakers only protect from too high of an amperage draw. If your system wasn't switched it could still dran the battery. Like if the inverter was left on overnight/weekend.
Sounds like what you're talking about could be ok for a trip. Use the USB as much as possible. Lots more effeceint than the inverter. If you actually mean fuse, get extra. If it's a circuit breaker you'll be good to see what does and doesn't work.
Found one on ebay
Found one here
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320690673489#ht_4544wt_937
Just ordered it about $12:00 US delivered. I will let you know how it goeswhen I get in about two weeks.
Igo told me a week ago, that they don't yet have a tip for the Gtab/Zpad but expect to do so by the end of the month
Spec
Here you are some pics of Malata official Car adapter. Maybe you can find some thing to help.
Car charger
Just ordered this from Amazon. (can't link yet - crap) so "30W DC/DC Regulated Adaptor for DVD" do your own search
13.34 shipped. Many more bucks directly from batteryspace
Will post again after I test it.
more info: it comes with two tips, neither of which fit the gtab. I had a proper size tip in our tool box so will check voltages tomorrow.
This has better 12V DC regulation than the oem ac charger.
Guys
YOU DO NOT NEED AN INVERTER TO CHARGE YOUR G_TAB IN THE CAR.
ANY 12VDC (output) charger will work. They are a dime a dozen if you know where to look. Just make sure the tip fits, and is tip positive (symbol will look something like this)
12VDC @1A
(-)-C-(+) with a dot INSIDE the "C" that is connected to the (+)
The power supply controller will work down to 9V and up to 18, which is fine for the 10 to 14V you'll get from a car adapter. Just make sure it isn't a step down.
They should be like $5. You might have to bust out the soldering skills though if you can't find the right tip.
Has anyone seen this car dock for the Rezound?
http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12860&accessoryId=48053
It appears to block the audio jack but it says it will charge the device. Does it somehow do audio out from the USB/MHL port?
Thanks.
I just bought this for $22 (25% corporate discount) at the Verizon corporate store here. It actually does not cover the headphone port, and leaves about 3mm, plenty for my fat cassette audio jack.
In fact, it also comes with 3 inserts: 1 for std batt cover, 1 for extended battery cover, and 1 for std w/case (!).
The USB is simply micro-usb that connects on the back, and doesn't come with USB cable or charger.
For reference, I bought the extended battery for $30 on sale, and it fits great in the mount.
Jakewill
Car mount with inductive charging.
I have so far been unable to find a car mount that has inductive charging built in. Anyone know where to get one?
Alongside a Bluetooth setup, this would be sick. No cables to worry about when you get in the car.
HTGamingPC said:
I have so far been unable to find a car mount that has inductive charging built in. Anyone know where to get one?
Alongside a Bluetooth setup, this would be sick. No cables to worry about when you get in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed... I will say that there are no cables to "worry about" with this mount, as it plugs in when you mount it.
On another note, it immediately launches the car panel app when mounted in this dock.
Jakewill
jakewill said:
Agreed... I will say that there are no cables to "worry about" with this mount, as it plugs in when you mount it.
On another note, it immediately launches the car panel app when mounted in this dock.
Jakewill
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You still have to make sure the plug goes into the jack. To me, that's not quite the same as mindlessly dropping it in; I usually have to look for at least half a second to make sure its lined up. Also, you can't have it in different orientations, you can get into trouble with 3rd party cases and it won't work with your wife's phone or your next upgrade, etc.
I was thinking to maybe make one out of a generic mount and the guts for an existing inductive mat but haven't really looked into the specifics.
I'd love to hear from anyone that can attest as to whether either of the Otterbox cases work with the inserts, and what material the inserts are made from (for possible modding).
etjrowe said:
I'd love to hear from anyone that can attest as to whether either of the Otterbox cases work with the inserts, and what material the inserts are made from (for possible modding).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
QFT. The revelation that the OEM car mount comes with different inserts for different variations of the phone's cover really surprised me. I'm hoping that it works with the Otterbox Commuter at the very least.
Post #12 here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1367241
Can anyone collaborate or refute this review.
Anyone tried to use this with a usb input on their car deck? My deck has a usb input for iPod/mp3 player, my ipod works fine if you plug it in directly to the deck with just a usb cable but will not work if you use an ipod dock, just wanna know if this is the same way.
H3Dude said:
Post #12 here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1367241
Can anyone collaborate or refute this review.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm. The car dock will not charge your phone atleast not with the screen on and nothing else running but battery monitor widget.
I bought one and tested it extensively yesterday. I used a Verizon 1a charger and a generic 1a charger. With the dock and both chargerz the phone DIScharged(as in LOST battery power) at between 100ma and 200ma. Without the dock using the same chargers and changing nothing on the phone the phone charged at between 50a and 300ma.
I did the test several times to eliminate any random things the phone may have been doing in the background.
After doing that controlled test I played with it some more and no matter what I did I could not get a positive charge with the dock attached even in airplane mode with the screen backlight at minimum. Without the dock using the same chargers i ran Pandora and a police scanner both outputting through the phone speaker, gps, wifi, mobile all on, and screen on auto and still had a very small positive charge.
Moral of the story DO NOT BUY THIS DOCK unless you dont mind it just being a piece of plastic that holds your phone in place.
4 Screws and you can open it up, small circuit board with a few resistors and LED let. Could be modded with a few wirejumpers to bypass the board.
etjrowe said:
I'd love to hear from anyone that can attest as to whether either of the Otterbox cases work with the inserts, and what material the inserts are made from (for possible modding).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my Otterbox Commuter today and tried it with the "iBolt" car dock, but as I should have guessed, they don't work together because the USB cover on the case gets in the way. The inserts for the car dock are made from polystyrene or ABS, I'm not totally sure. Probably PS because they are pretty stiff. It might be possible to chop a piece out to accommodate the case flap, but I'm returning mine and picking up a universal phone/camera mount instead. A little over-kill perhaps, but it's inexpensive and can mount my cameras too, if I feel the need lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexcope-Roadtrip-PlaySport-Panasonic-Recorder/dp/B004E7GF2M/ref=pd_cp_cps_2
Kane5581 said:
I can confirm. The car dock will not charge your phone atleast not with the screen on and nothing else running but battery monitor widget.
I bought one and tested it extensively yesterday. I used a Verizon 1a charger and a generic 1a charger. With the dock and both chargerz the phone DIScharged(as in LOST battery power) at between 100ma and 200ma. Without the dock using the same chargers and changing nothing on the phone the phone charged at between 50a and 300ma.
I did the test several times to eliminate any random things the phone may have been doing in the background.
After doing that controlled test I played with it some more and no matter what I did I could not get a positive charge with the dock attached even in airplane mode with the screen backlight at minimum. Without the dock using the same chargers i ran Pandora and a police scanner both outputting through the phone speaker, gps, wifi, mobile all on, and screen on auto and still had a very small positive charge.
Moral of the story DO NOT BUY THIS DOCK unless you dont mind it just being a piece of plastic that holds your phone in place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too can confirm the iBolt dock does not properly charge the phone. Noticed it the first time I use it on a 2 hour trip using navigation with the screen on only for half the time. Before I left the battery was at 75%. When I finally got to my destination the battery was at 10%.
Does anyone know of any other dock or a fix for this one?
---------- Post added at 05:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:47 PM ----------
MastricX said:
4 Screws and you can open it up, small circuit board with a few resistors and LED let. Could be modded with a few wirejumpers to bypass the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you refering to the iBolt car dock? Have you modded it yourself? If so, can you explain how?
http://www.craigsdocks.com/htc-rezound-car-dock-swivel-style/
I ordered one of these. I had the verizon one but returned it when I realized it was a piece of crap and wouldn't charge. I will review this one when I get it.
I received one of the VZW car docks in the mail yesterday and the first thing I did was to install it and test the charging capability. I was relieved to find that it is charging my phone. The caveat here is that I was using a charger with dual USB ports, not a regular one-piece car charger, and the USB cable I had in the truck from my old Droid X. Might that make some difference?
das0527 said:
I received one of the VZW car docks in the mail yesterday and the first thing I did was to install it and test the charging capability. I was relieved to find that it is charging my phone. The caveat here is that I was using a charger with dual USB ports, not a regular one-piece car charger, and the USB cable I had in the truck from my old Droid X. Might that make some difference?
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Does the charger have a output rating on it? The phone will charge with a good 1a charger if you don't use it AT All, and it will charge very slow, if even the screen is on it will drain the battery. The one I got blows this thing out of the water some people say its ugly, I don't see it, but it works out of the box. http://www.craigsdocks.com/htc-rezound-car-dock-swivel-style/
Kane, I'll check the output. I know it's charging by AC versus USB. The charger is a Scoche dual USB charger.
MastricX said:
4 Screws and you can open it up, small circuit board with a few resistors and LED let. Could be modded with a few wirejumpers to bypass the board.
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One of my Engineer friends helped look into this a little. We are still investigating but for those that cannot STAND the constant car dock mode, if you DE-SOLDER the small chip (remove completely and do NOT bridge) labeled "R1" from the backside of the board, car dock is no longer turned on. Its an 10k resister that id's the car charger. Removing that will stop car dock from launching period. This does not affect anything else other than Car Dock Mode.
We are still testing and trying to figuring it out this. But as it stands now, there is nothing else on this board that would cause power loss. It has to be a combination of GPS (large power draw alone) + Data (Pandora) + Car Dock automatically turning on WiFi (another large power draw). WHY WiFi is turned ON in Car Dock mode, I have NO idea. Last thing I want ON when driving. :? But having those all on is drawing more currant than is being provided with a full 1A being supplied.
As one last note, most off the shelf (generic) car charges only provide 500mA's, which is absolutely NOT enough power to charge while GPS + Data + WiFe searching to charge the phone. Make sure when you purchase a charger/adapter, make sure you see the output = 5v - 1A.
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Someone at Android forums has already done the research on this and came up with the best fix for the official dock as far as the charging goes. Also, he tests different car chargers and gives an opinion on which one charges the best. A very well done thread. Worth the read.
http://androidforums.com/3754610-post104.html
http://androidforums.com/3725965-post67.html
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
I used that thread to move forward on modding my dock. I failed shorting the pins after a drip of solder shorted ALL the pins together (whoops), but I went with another poster's method of drilling a hole for the cord to go straight to the phone. It ended up clean and simple. It was a pain in the ass to plug in the micro to the back of the dock anyway.
FYI, my experience has been that the phone overheats pretty quick (120F) with screen on, navi running, and a 1A charger providing juice. The good news is that it clears a good 400mA which provides a solid positive charge. Screen off and navi running gets rid of the heat issue for me.
I'm looking for an aftermarket charging dock similar to the Samsung but without the ridiculous price tag. Does anyone have any advice? I also was thinking of an idea for a charging adapter that I think should either exist already or be easy to make from existing designs.
I want to wirelessly charge my phone when in my car by simply dropping it into my cupholder in the center console. I was thinking, if there was a way to take an existing wireless Fast Charge adapter, and turning it into a ring or band (similar in size and shape to a Slap Bracelet). It would only need to be inserted into the cupholder, expand to the shape of the round opening, and when you drop your phone into the cupholder, it would begin to charge. If this product doesn't exist, is there a way to make it with current products already on the market?
I'm interested in something similar to this. My car has a little cubby that my phone fits in perfectly and I'd like to install a wireless charger directly under the panel that my phone sits on. My concern is the difference between AC and DC current which could be avoided by using an actual car wireless charger but I'm also skeptical about most of the wireless chargers out there.
The high power ones have fans. Under the cubby might not be enough air circulation to keep it cool, and could cause it to overheat or even catch fire. I'd avoid that.
I just bought a 3A charger from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Charge-Anker-...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Look for Quick Charge 3.0 and make sure and get a compatable cable.
...now available at Fasttech
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10061022/9691452-authentic-huawei-cp60-qi-inductive-wireless
No power supply included.
Pantaloonie said:
...now available at Fasttech
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10061022/9691452-authentic-huawei-cp60-qi-inductive-wireless
No power supply included.
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Thanks - but we can use any Qi charging pad right?
kaibosh99 said:
Thanks - but we can use any Qi charging pad right?
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Yes you can. But only Huawei has the 15w option. Others are limited to 5w-10w. At least I believe that's the case.
I just received my wireless charger yesterday.
I know some alternatives exist, but at least in Canada, 15W Qi charging options are as expensive as this charger was, so I chose the Huawei proprietary tech for the same price.
I am loving this wireless charger. I finally have quick wireless charging, and the pad feels premium.
steadly2004 said:
Yes you can. But only Huawei has the 15w option. Others are limited to 5w-10w. At least I believe that's the case.
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I'm quite sure Xiaomi has 20w
Well, I ordered one of these from FastTech, and it arrived about a week ago. Amazingly quick shipping considering I bought about a dozen little el cheapo goodies and paid about $2 for the postage. The charging pad is genuine Huawei, in general anything on FastTech that outright claims to be genuine is. It came in a very nondescript tough plastic bag that held a white sealed box. Inside there is a meaningless tiny little pamphlet in Chinese, but why would you need any information anyway? As was mentioned, it doesn't come with a power supply - again, why would it? I crammed my official charging cable into it, works fine. The charging pad is quite a bit smaller than I expected, I guess it doesn't need to be anything more than it is - I would say about 2.75" in diameter and about half an inch thick. The surface is very 'grippy', I wish the TPU case that came with the phone was this sticky. Speaking of which, I throw my phone on the pad with the TPU case and it works fine. In fact, just in the name of science I just tried seeing how thick of material the charger would still work through, and it easily triggers through even 1/8" of paper - so this will work with *any* case that isn't made out of metal.
At first I thought that the placement was *extremely* finicky, because sometimes it seemed like it wouldn't trigger. I've learned since that it just takes a second or two sometimes no matter where you put it, so you just learn to trust it. The phone does have to be somewhat 'centered', but it isn't crazy specific. So, you plop your phone down and the nice green bubbly animation pops up with a pleasant sound, and the icon in the center shows that it is charging via lethal levels of radiation rather than safely through a wire. There is a very small LED under the lip of the pad, that lights up when it is charging. Obviously the LED on the phone will either be green or strobing for a notification while this is going on too. As far as charging speed goes, I haven't done any rigorous testing of any kind but it is most definitely not 'slow'. You put it down, and when you pick it up it has charged up enough that I have never thought "hmm, this is slow". Yeah, I know - real scientific. Oh, and the phone gets 'barely warm' when charging, and I do mean 'barely warm'. This is good, I've heard some combos out there result in a cooking hot phone - and that isn't good for anything.
Otherwise, not much to say. It is very, very nice not to have to plug my phone in - wearing out a charging port is an actual worry, and this way the bottom speaker isn't muffled to nothingness (a strange move, but when you take aggressive hyper efficient space and waterproofing into account it makes sense). One thing to mention, you obviously can't use your phone while it is charging. I mean you *could*, but you won't. If I had to gripe about anything, it is that the pad is a little thicker than I would like. It doesn't hurt anything, but if you have it teetering up on a high spot or something you will need to be a little wary about how you place your phone.
On a side note, not that anyone really 'needs' it in the real world, but don't forget we do have wireless charging in reverse. From reading up on it, the placement between two phones is *extremely* picky, and I would say that if both phones had a case it probably wouldn't work. The other thing they mentioned is that once you initiate a reverse charge, any movement between the two phones of any kind will break the connection - and it is a pain to get going again. Did you know we also have the option to charge something else via the Type C port? It is listed in the settings, I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere. That would be crazy useful - especially since we have SO much battery to spare. Think about it, you could charge wireless earbuds, bluetooth speakers, whatever. No idea at what rate it would charge (theoretically it could be fairly substantial) and of course the kind of cable you would need to do anything with this doesn't really exist... I am going to patch together a Type C to one of those 'multi-pronged charging ends', just to try this out. I have a very neat cable with one end that with one fixed end can fit both Micro-USB and Lightning ports - no one believes me, and honestly I didn't believe it myself at first either. When you eyeball it you think "now why aren't there more of these out there?"
Anyway, for the $20 this charging pad is a no brainer. It is legit, authentic, and works like a charm. One last thing - I swear I can feel the thing radiating from a foot away. I know that is 'impossible' given the inverse square law, but I'm not kidding.
@kaibosh99
Excellent and very helpful review, thank you very much !!!
@kaibosh99
Did the LED and cooling fan switch off automatically when the M20P was fully charged?
So does it show on the screen that it's fast changing?
Sent from my Mate 20 Pro
29 € with power supply included
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07JD35YS6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1