So there's been a lot of questions on how to properly replace the LCD and/or Digitizer.
I bought my digitizer (v0.3) from www.all4cellular.com . The SKU for the digitizer I got was 440002396. If you order, call AND email their support to ensure you get a V0.3. I can not guarantee that they have them now. I bought my LCD ( still waiting) from eBay, a Chinese reseller. I've been waiting over a month for it now.
First off, you have to determine if the LCD or digitzer is busted.
1 - If you can't see anything on the screen, everything is full of lines and colorful you have a busted LCD, OR the cable may have come loose. Keep reading.
2 - If you can view the tablet and all it's goods, still use some touch stuff then your digitizer is busted.
3 - If you can't turn see anything on the LCD, the screen is full of cracks then chances are they are both busted.
4 - If you turn on the Prime, the screen is black, or anything else, either it's bricked or the LCD died. Get a mini-HDMI cable, hook to a TV and check it out.
So, you've determined that you have a busted ass screen. Yay
[COLOR=RoyalBlue)"]Disassembling : [/COLOR]
To remove the LCD/Digitizer from the backing you have to look at the 2 tabs that have rubber in them on the bottom of the tablet. There is a thread here on how to do it so I won't go further : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1479664
OK! Now you have that apart. Set your TF201 half with all the goods in a safe place. Might not hurt to use the internal switch to power it off. Post #2 in the above link shows how to do it. It's a small switch. Be careful from here on out. Disconnect the LCD and digitizer ribbons from the rear case. The digitizer ribbon comes off the backing, and the LCD will come off of the LCD screen itself (you have to reuse it, one does not come with any replacement LCD screens).
So now you have your TF201 in 2 pieces. Great
Lay the screen on a flat surface. DO NOT BEND THIS. The LCD will easily crack and bust. I was in a rush to do this and cracked my LCD. If I was to do it over again, I'd find a hardcover book of the same size, place it on the LCD to minimize any bending.
First, unscrew the screen from the digitizer frame (keep these somewhere safe), bend the tabs up out of the way. Take a plastic tool, if you have on, and take it and slip it between the 2 sided tape on the LCD. Here is a picture so you can see just how little you need to pry off.
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I would 100% recommend doing this with a space heater blowing on it to soften the tape, using a guitar pick or other hard slim piece of plastic to go around the edges. DO NOT flex the LCD up to see if it's cutting, do not put pressure on the back of the LCD. If you feel comfortable, you can use a Exacto knife (or scalpel) to cut it off.
When I was taking my busted LCD off after I realized my screen was broken I used a scalpel for part of it. I didn't give a crap as both LCD+digitizer were broken. If both are broke on yours, don't worry about being careful.
Here is a meh video showing a bit of it :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRU3AIWvXGY
Alright! So now you have the LCD and digitizer separated, w00t. If your LCD was broken, put the new one on. If it's still good, and the digitizer need replacing keep going. The hard part is over, now it's just the picky part.
I can not stress this enough : Any digitizer you buy will NOT come with the frame. The frame has the wifi + GPS antennas on them, as well as the screw holes for the LCD screen. If you've thrown out your digitizer without separating them, good luck in finding another.
So now you have the Digitizer and frame to separate. This was indeed a hassle as both are paper thin. Here is a picture showing how they are assembled (Although mine aren't yet, I have them laying together). This shows them separated so it gives a really good idea of what needs to be done :
Front view :
Rear view :
OK, if the tablet were together, pic 1 would be the screen facing up towards you, pic 2 shows the rear. The digitizer glass sits on the frame, held by glue. If your digitizer is broken (shattered) or just cracked, having it sitting in front of a heat source helps TREMENDOUSLY. The glue on the tape heats up and separates nicely.
Important to remember when doing this step : If you crack the frame it does NOT matter. If you break it it does NOT matter.
Why do I say this? Simple...the frame sits behind the digitizer. When you get the double sided tape to put on it to hold the digitzer in place it will also keep the frame held together without fear of anything happening. If it breaks in 2-3 pieces just tape them back up, this is not an issue as the digitizer and LCD are what gives the front it's strength. This is the reason why the front flexes and parts break. It's a design issue (imo) and should have been made much firmer, not flexible.
When I was separating the frame and digitizer, I went in from the back first to create an opening on the outside of the frame. I held the whole thing in front of my trusted space heater, let the tape warm up then slid my exacto knife between the 2 close to a corner, and twisted the knife a bit to get them to lift off eachother. Once I had a small gap, I pulled the knife out from the back and went in from the front around the edge. The reason I did this was the seam that you have to go into is a ***** to find, going in from the rear negates busting the frame and marking it up, plus it's a crapload easier to start this way.
Note : When doing this, it helps to keep a few pieces of paper the same length of the sides you're cutting (or cards). The tape glue resticks, sticking the paper or cards in keeps it separated nicely.
Here is what you'll be left with :
So now you have the LCD off the back of the digitizer, the digitizer and frame separated. It's at this point where you have to decide : Do I want this to be stuck back together like it was when I got it, or shall I use something a little more workable in case it decides to pull the same breaking stunt?
Pick your tape to re-assemble accordingly. I myself am using double sided permanent scotch tape. It's nice and sticky, but if necessary I can remove it easily in the future to fix any problems. Jgrimoldy suggested this because when you put it back together dust might slide in between the digitizer and LCD, and I 100% agree.
Putting back together :
Easy enough. Lay the frame down, apply the tape where it needs to be. Trim as necessary. Don't worry about having to touch the tape while trmming it, or it sticking out a bit. As you can see in the Rear View photo up there, you have plenty of lee-way. I would suggest leaving the plastic on the digitizer backing right up until you are ready to seat the LCD back on.
When you get to placing the LCD back on, a can of air might help a bit, or a cloth use to wipe off glasses. The LCD on the digitizer appears to have a foam type tape on it, it's your discretion if you peel it all off to clean it up nice (meh) or leave a layer of foam on it, place 2 sided tape over it and reassemble it. Personally, I'd leave the old foam tape on it (peel off any glossy layer showing) and put 2 sided back on it. Screws hold it in place and tighten it down anyways. The foam closes any gaps that let in particles.
If it's a new LCD and has plastic on it, hold the LCD upside down above the digitizer, remove the plastic off of it then off of the digitizer. Any dust in the air should be blocked off from falling on the digitizer. Have a quick peek at both, then stick them together. I am not totally sure on this step yet as I do not have a LCD to try with (yet). Most eBay LCD's I find appear to have some sort of trim around the edges, so I imagine all that's needs is a bit of tape placed around it, remove the plastic and slap it on.
So there you have it, how to take it apart and put back together.
I came to post a new topic but this might be what im after.
I
Maybe yoy could suggest if its the digitiser or not?
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
shoutman said:
I came to post a new topic but this might be what im after.
Maybe yoy could suggest if its the digitiser or not?
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The digitizer cracks could be seen easily and do not affect the LCD display. Looks like the LCD ribbon is loose on that. Open it up and try to see if playing with the ribbon fixes it. Usually if the LCD is cracked the whole screen is gone bonkers.
shoutman said:
I came to post a new topic but this might be what im after.
I
Maybe yoy could suggest if its the digitiser or not?
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It apprears that your LCD got damaged. It's definitely NOT your digitizer. Your digitizer would be visibly cracked and it would not affect the image.
Most likely, your LCD got cracked. In my experience, and I've been a professional tech for decades, it's not a connection issue. Usually when you have a bad connection, your screen will have a substantial tint (red, green, or blue) or it would not work at all. When you have an isolated issue like you have shown in your picture where the whole screen isn't affected, it's a damaged LCD. Depending on where the LCD gets damaged, it can affect all or part of the screen (and it's often much more likely to be just a part of the screen).
Sorry to say.
Jgrimoldy said:
It apprears that your LCD got damaged. It's definitely NOT your digitizer. Your digitizer would be visibly cracked and it would not affect the image.
Most likely, your LCD got cracked. In my experience, and I've been a professional tech for decades, it's not a connection issue. Usually when you have a bad connection, your screen will have a substantial tint (red, green, or blue) or it would not work at all. When you have an isolated issue like you have shown in your picture where the whole screen isn't affected, it's a damaged LCD. Depending on where the LCD gets damaged, it can affect all or part of the screen (and it's often much more likely to be just a part of the screen).
Sorry to say.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had that happen to mine with the ribbon loose Jgrimoldy (what you see in the pic), then it'd turn green randomly. Pushed the cable back in and problem solved.
Nightpath said:
I had that happen to mine with the ribbon loose Jgrimoldy (what you see in the pic), then it'd turn green randomly. Pushed the cable back in and problem solved.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd, of course, check the cable first. And definitely before ordering a replacment LCD. I have strong doubts and hope for the best.
Thanks for tge reply. How much is a replacement lcd going to cost?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
shoutman said:
Thanks for tge reply. How much is a replacement lcd going to cost?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the neighborhood of $100. If your order from China, significantly less, but the delivery delay will be measured using the geologic time scale. If you order from the U.S. (assuming you're in the U.S.), prolly a bit more, but you'll likely have it the same week.
If it turns out that the LCD is broken (which I hope is not the case), the MUCH harder part will be dis-assembling your Prime and removing the current LCD while not breaking your current digitizer.
If you have patience, reasonable dexterity, and are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult job. Let's put it this way: If you can change a tire, replace a light switch (safely), or put RAM in a desktop PC, this should not be a big deal. If you usually find friend/neighbor/relative to do these things for you, well...
Jgrimoldy said:
In the neighborhood of $100. If your order from China, significantly less, but the delivery delay will be measured using the geologic time scale. If you order from the U.S. (assuming you're in the U.S.), prolly a bit more, but you'll likely have it the same week.
If it turns out that the LCD is broken (which I hope is not the case), the MUCH harder part will be dis-assembling your Prime and removing the current LCD while not breaking your current digitizer.
If you have patience, reasonable dexterity, and are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult job. Let's put it this way: If you can change a tire, replace a light switch (safely), or put RAM in a desktop PC, this should not be a big deal. If you usually find friend/neighbor/relative to do these things for you, well...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im from ireland... and think I'll try find someone to fix it for me as I have a history of making things worse when trying to fix them.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
I ordered one from China well over a month ago, still have yet to see it but that's no surprise seeing as I'm in Canada. The bad thing about ordering from China is that they never want to give your money back. If you do go this route, order from eBay, then after the shipping time is over demand your money back on the first day that way they know you mean business.
I can't figure out whether my lcd or digitizer (or both) are broken. The screen is fully responsive, the colors are perfect, but if you look closely you can see the crack. You can also feel it with your fingers. The crack arised after clashing against a wall.
Atm it's not very disturbing, but i fear the crack might grow...
ozer86 said:
I can't figure out whether my lcd or digitizer (or both) are broken. The screen is fully responsive, the colors are perfect, but if you look closely you can see the crack. You can also feel it with your fingers. The crack arised after clashing against a wall.
Atm it's not very disturbing, but i fear the crack might grow...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the digitizer. If you can feel it with your fingers, it's definitely the digitizer. It's impossible to crack the LCD without having a significant effect on the image. Sorry to say that the crack will likely spread. Unless you're unrealistically careful with your TFP, it's almost guraranteed to spread.
The saddest thing happened today.
Took my TFP out today, had it sitting in the back of my car. My brother got in, his snowshoes TOUCHED my ****ing TFP and the digitizer broke. Again.
I'm replacing it 1 last time, going to sell the PoS once the case gets to me and get a different tablet. The weakness of that asshole digitizer just astounds me.
There's a nice tough looking Acer Iconia tablet with a Tegra 3 in it, it's 7" though but I'm through with this tablet.
Related
Do anyone has video or pdf or wtever guide to give the instruction how to disassemble the flyer?(i am thinking to repair the flyer myself) Thank you
Here you go:
www.techrepublic.com/photos/crackin...3?seq=2&tag=content;siu-container#photo-frame
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
athris said:
thx, but i have 1 more question, do u know how to remove the digitizer? is it the same way as other smartphone?(use hot gun and remove the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there is a note in the techrepublic teardown about it being bonded like a smartphone. You should however be vary careful given the size of the screen more heat (not temperature) is required, and the risk of thermally cracking the underlying LCD panel is correspondingly higher.
Beware! Learn from my adventures.
So, I took apart my wife's HTC Flyer this past week to replace the screen. While the Techrepublic teardown shots are helpful, it's missing about ten steps at the end that involve actually removing the screen. I've messed around with tabletpc's and laptops before but not cell phones so wasn't really prepared for the fact that you have to pretty much take the whole Flyer apart in order to be able to get the screen off. As far as I can tell, no one else has documented taking one of these apart to replace the screen. I will write up something more involved when I get a chance but here's a couple things that I found out about the screen.
1. The part of the screen that you touch with your finger and stylus is not glass! It is a heavy plastic layer that is adhered to the glass digitizer. It is clear with the black around the edge and cutout for the HTC logo. This was the part of my screen that had chips in it. I tried to use a screen repair kit to repair the chips (which I did) but it took off the outer, darker finish in the process. So I moved to the next step, replacing the screen. I didn't know about the outer layer, otherwise that would have been much easier to replace. But, I don't think you can get that part unless you have connections with HTC.
2. The outer layer/digitizer glass comes as one part (along with the n-trig connector). I ordered mine for around $50 on ebay.
3. You will need to take the back off and much of the motherboard to be able to disconnect the n-trig connector.
4. Taking the screen off will take heat. I used a hair dryer but more heat could be better although you have to be careful of the lcd underneath. My digitizer broke while removing and ending up putting a small gouge in the lcd. I was able to fix the lcd well enough, just be careful.
5. HTC used a buttload of sticky tape to secure the glass to the lcd and case. My cheap blue pry tool quickly broke so I ended up using a plastic butter knife to separate digitizer from the case. Once off, I used Goo Be Gone to get rid of all the sticky tape from it. I'm ready to put new tape on but I'm not sure exactly what they used. Anyone have any ideas? It's a black, closed cell sticky tape that is really stringy when it comes to taking off. Most of the stuff I see for sale online seems to be really thin stuff. I picked up some Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape by 3M that looks to be similar that I am going to experiment with. Anyone know for sure what they used?
6. I put the new digitizer on temporarily to check to see if it worked and it did (yay)! But I still need need to cut all of the tape and put it in the right spot. There are also these little plastic tabs that go on the backside of the screen. They are used to refract light from the led's to light up the outside navigation buttons. Be careful not to lose these. I did, and had to make one. We'll see how I did once I get it back together.
7. I found that there's not a lot of parts out there for these things. At least not compared to cell phones. Now that they're being discontinued, I don't know if that is going to help.
Anyway, I took a few pics along the way and will try to write something up when I get more time. I just wanted to give folks a heads-up on the screen and how it's put together. I can't imagine the View's screen is any different. So whatever they're using for the outer layer isn't Gorilla Glass. Or is it?
UPDATE:
Here are the promised photos of this disaster. I'll add the commentary tomorrow (I'm tired).
Two more comments and I can finally upload my photos.
I need to replace my LCD and Glass...anyone know where I can order these parts...I cant find them anywhere.
Hard to find parts for the Flyer/View which could be a problem. Looks like some is selling an LCD, though on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PH-LCD-HT-2...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bf8f0390 from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
I purchased mine here and it works great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260906551668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Much better price. What kind of tape did you use? Also did you have to replace any of the light reflacting plastic tabs that are used to light the buttons around the outside of the digitizer?
Sent from my PG41200 using Tapatalk
Will a replacement screen for the Flyer work well on a View?
I don't see why not. Except for some of the internals, they are pretty much identical hardware wise.
This take apart written guide shows how to replace various parts on your HTC Amaze 4G. You will learn on this guide the steps on how to properly take your HTC smartphone apart safely and repair nearly any internal parts of your phone.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Amaze 4G part(s):
HTC Amaze 4G Touch Screen Digitizer Replacements
Other HTC Amaze 4G Parts
Tools:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Torx T5 Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Repairs)
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
HTC Amaze 4G Take Apart Repair Guide:
To begin, remove the back battery cover, battery, sim card, and memory card.
Remove the seven (7) Torx T5 screws as located in Figure 1.
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Figure 1
You can now remove the back housing from the rest of the smartphone. Do this by carefully using a safe open pry tool to lift the outer edges, unclipping each clip holding the housing in place.
With the back cover removed, you now have access to the motherboard. The upper portion of the motherboard will have one connection located on the back side of the motherboard. Carefully lift the motherboard away from the rest of the screen assembly and carefully release this connection. It will be a "jaw" connector, so you will need to carefully lift the back flap of the connector and slide the flex cable out of the connection.
Gently fold the motherboard towards the bottom of the phone. There are two (2) flex cables that will need to be released. Both will be covered by mylar tape. Remove the tape and release both jawbone connectors. With these flex cables released, you can remove the motherboard from the rest of the phone.
Figure 2
Now, heat the front of the screen using a hair dryer or heat gun. Use quick movements, not staying in one area for too long. Medium - high heat will be required to properly warm the adhesive holding the screen assembly in place. Take your time and reheat as required. Also be aware of the 2 flex cables that are located under the screen assembly (touch screen and LCD screen flex cables).
Figure 3
Once the screen assembly has been removed from the housing, you can now use a small flat head screwdriver or similar to carefully separate the LCD screen from the touch screen digitizer. Heat may be required.
You can now replace either the touch screen digitizer or the LCD screen.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
Nice write up
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using xda premium
excellent thread
Thanks guys!
Appreciate the support!! Hope it helps!!
Added this to The HTC amaze all you need to know thread
Sticky Glue
Just a quick q, the digitizer is glued to the lcd screen. When separating the digitizer from the lcd there's a lot of glue residue left on the lcd. So of course the question is how to remove the glue and what do you use to glue the new digitizer to the LCD? Any detail would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
The best way to remove the adhesive is to heat it. You can use a hot blow dryer, this will loosen the adhesive bond. You can purchase adhesive strips from our website when sealing it back together.
Thanks
repairsuniverse said:
The best way to remove the adhesive is to heat it. You can use a hot blow dryer, this will loosen the adhesive bond. You can purchase adhesive strips from our website when sealing it back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your help!
Test Lcd
Paul, I'm interested in purchasing Digitizer and Sticky Strip but am also considering LCD/Digitizer already assembled. Is there any way to test lcd screen once taken apart to ensure I haven't damaged it while taking apart.
Thanks
hooutoo said:
Paul, I'm interested in purchasing Digitizer and Sticky Strip but am also considering LCD/Digitizer already assembled. Is there any way to test lcd screen once taken apart to ensure I haven't damaged it while taking apart.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can do a visual check if you are worried that you have physically damaged, however the easiest way would be to have it installed in the phone and power on. If it works as normal it is fine.
just got an amaze with a cracked screen, gona take the digitizer apart first before ordering any parts, but i'll post some pics. and i'll connect the lcd to test and make sure that i didn't damage it lol and for the one who wanted to test maybe that will help you
EDIT: Can't change just the digitizer, i did my vivid and sensation (as well as every htc phone i've had) but this one is different, it's done iphone 4 style, can't separate the glass from the lcd. gota get the assembly. i'll post pictures later
Screen / Digitizer
So you can't replace just the screen / digitizer?
You can replace the LCD and the touch screen digitizer as one fused part or you can replace the LCD and the touch screen digitizer separately.
Power button connection?
The repair has gone well so far however i have run into a problem when putting it back together. the cable leading from the power button was just glued to the motherboard and i just peeled it off to remove the motherboard. Now how do i reattach this connector?
parth515 said:
The repair has gone well so far however i have run into a problem when putting it back together. the cable leading from the power button was just glued to the motherboard and i just peeled it off to remove the motherboard. Now how do i reattach this connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually you will find it still has enough "Stick" to simply put back into place. If however it doesn't you will need adhesive strips. These can be found here - Adhesive Strips
repairsuniverse said:
Usually you will find it still has enough "Stick" to simply put back into place. If however it doesn't you will need adhesive strips. These can be found here - Adhesive Strips
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just ordered parts from your site, including adhesive strips, i might be pestering you when they arrive if i run into any snags. Thanks for the write up though ,
Replaced Screen - Stuck in Boot Loop (I think)
So, I followed the instructions, was as careful as possible and didn't tear or break anything that I can see or feel. But when I try to turn the phone on, it just vibrates once like it does at normal start up.... then continue to vibrate once at about 15 second intervals and the screen remains black. The LED lights up when I plug it in to power, so that bit seems to be ok. Both pressing the power button and plugging into power starts the vibrating loop. If I attach it to computer, the device does not show up. Any tips or suggestions or where I might be running into an issue?
Edit: The phone software is stock - this is my first foray into doing anything besides popping the back cover off and taking the battery out. Just to double check, I took the new screen out and reassembled with the old one and get the same issue, so it's not the new screen that's defective. The old screen was working just find despite the many cracks from screen-planting on pavement.
[*]Once the screen assembly has been removed from the housing, you can now use a small flat head screwdriver or similar to carefully separate the LCD screen from the touch screen digitizer. Heat may be required.
[*]You can now replace either the touch screen digitizer or the LCD screen.
[/LIST]
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.[/QUOTE]
Tenar13 said:
So, I followed the instructions, was as careful as possible and didn't tear or break anything that I can see or feel. But when I try to turn the phone on, it just vibrates once like it does at normal start up.... then continue to vibrate once at about 15 second intervals and the screen remains black. The LED lights up when I plug it in to power, so that bit seems to be ok. Both pressing the power button and plugging into power starts the vibrating loop. If I attach it to computer, the device does not show up. Any tips or suggestions or where I might be running into an issue?
Edit: The phone software is stock - this is my first foray into doing anything besides popping the back cover off and taking the battery out. Just to double check, I took the new screen out and reassembled with the old one and get the same issue, so it's not the new screen that's defective. The old screen was working just find despite the many cracks from screen-planting on pavement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
It's hard to say exactly what is causing the issue without seeing the phone but it's sounds like everything hasn't been re-installed correctly. Check over the installation and make sure everything is fully connected.
repairsuniverse said:
Hi,
It's hard to say exactly what is causing the issue without seeing the phone but it's sounds like everything hasn't been re-installed correctly. Check over the installation and make sure everything is fully connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When plugging the three connectors back into the motherboard, how far in should they be? I tried to push them in as far as possible, but I was afraid of jamming something or tearing the tabs on the side. If I check and everything is fully connected, what could other possible issues be? Thanks very much for your time.
Tenar13 said:
When plugging the three connectors back into the motherboard, how far in should they be? I tried to push them in as far as possible, but I was afraid of jamming something or tearing the tabs on the side. If I check and everything is fully connected, what could other possible issues be? Thanks very much for your time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to force the connection, just press in as far as it will go (with the jaw unlocked). The side tabs should be close to connector itself, but will not make contact. Once fitted, lock it in place with the jaw and try testing again.
So I dropped my phone today, and it must have fell on the corner good enough that it cracked the screen from the top-left to the middle-right.
Going to replace the digitizer/LCD as a combo since it's a bit easier than replacing just the digitizer.
Ordered this today:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350582267363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Watched a couple of the repair videos (specifically this one: http://blog.repairsuniverse.net/how-to-fix-htc-rezound-screen/), and they say that there's adhesive on the back of this assembly as well that you need to pry away from (in the previously linked video, they push the assembly away from the housing from the backside and pry away from the housing/adhesive). My question is... am I going to have to replace this adhesive once I pry the assembly away from the housing? Or should the adhesive that's there be good enough to secure it as long as I don't rip it away very badly?
If I do need to get new adhesive, anybody have any links as to what to get?
Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!
I never replace a screen before. good luck
Bump.
Still haven't done this, as I haven't had time on the weekends yet. Got a GNexus to get me by, but I'm missing my Rezound.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
agentofchaos said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069YNZV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
doing all this is very tedious work... make sure you get the soft button hinges in correctly or the screen wont sit flat..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should be less tedious since I got the LCD/Digitizer assembly together, so I don't have to replace just the digitizer.
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
OpAckTool said:
I replaced the digitizer on mine last year. The process was just a disaster for me (ended up cracking my LCD)...but since yours is coming with the LCD and digitizer already glued together...perhaps you should have some better luck. It won't be necessarily difficult to do...it could just become a pain.
For one...there are clear tabs attached to the digitizer that essentially "draw" the red LED lights from the board down to the buttons on the bottom. These tabs are literally sandwiched between the digitizer and LCD...you'll see what I mean when you separate the broken digitizer/LCD from the housing...there will be 4 clear tabs sticking out from the bottom of the LCD. I did not find any seller that was selling those tabs, and it's quite possible the one you bought won't have them. What this means is...the 4 capacitive buttons along the bottom will still work, they just won't light up anymore. Not a big deal to some. I tried peeling them off my old digitizer and gluing them to the new one...but that didn't come out right at all. And your new LCD/digitizer will already be glued together and you're probably not going to want to separate them just to try and save the buttons.
Secondly, I've used the 3m double-sided roll of tape (like the one linked to above). It'll probably be your best bet...but know that, you could possibly need to redo it after a while of use. I could push on the top of my screen with my thumb, and I would see it kinda "flex" a bit, so the tape wasn't holding all too well. I'd also get fuzz and dirt on the screen of the front camera over time. So do a good, thorough job taping the digitizer/LCD down to the housing.
I lucked out (sort of) because my wife decided to give her Rez a bath and killed it. So I essentially took her digitizer, LCD and housing and use it on my phone.
OH, and don't overtighten the 6 screws for the red back housing! The bottom two screws especially. I did that and it cracked. And be gentle removing the red housing from the camera..sometimes the camera likes to get stuck inside of the camera housing and prying it apart will destroy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up.
Swapped out the screen (didn't get any 3M tape yet, but I wanted to make sure the screen worked properly / multi-touch was recognized everywhere).
Swapped the screens, re-assembled (managed to leave some adhesive where the lcd/digitizer assembly pulls out of on there, so it sticks, but like what happens with you it flexes just a bit. Will probably order some 3M tape one of these days and take off all of the old adhesive and replace it. Glad you mentioned the issue with the camera getting stuck in the housing; that did happen to me, and I had to work it out of there. The tiny LED board did pop out of it's connector, but I popped it back in easily and it still works fine.
I also didn't put the soft-key light tabs in the new LCD/digitizer (like you said, didn't want to pry the new one apart). Doesn't bother me much anyway, as I had them turned off in my ROM anyway lol.
So far it works well. Won't be my daily again yet until I have some 3M tape to put on there so the assembly is secured in the housing.
Just an update. Got some double-sided tape, and scraped off the old, remnants of the previous tape that was there. Cut new strips to fit where the old ones were, and it fits much more securely now. No screen flex or wiggle anymore. Charging it back up, and thinking about flashing a different ROM now that I have it fixed.
All-in-all, it was a pretty easy fix.
OK, i have a question but it needs some background first:
i bought a DNA from the local Craigslist, the ad plainly said that the screen was cracked AND that they already had the replacement digitizer (i had not done enough research at this time, obviously or i wouldn't be here). So i love the phone, read all sorts of awesome reviews etc. I get home, i proceed to take the DNA apart (i have done this with multiple iPhones, and a couple other phones as well for various fixes, so it's not foreign to me)
so, i finally reach the screen, and come to realize that the LCD is FACTORY GLUED to the Digitizer.
so, my question is this, can i:
1. Order JUST an LCD and install it WITH the Digitizer/Glass that i have already (from the Craigslist seller) or
2. do i HAVE to order the WHOLE ASSEMBLY, and somehow FIND a way to sell this Digitizer? (and of course, as any good forum needs, WHY?)
hmm, seems like more than one question, but you get the idea... if i left any pertinent information out, just let me know.
EDIT: ok, since it's sunday i'm holding out on ordering anything, but before i go to bed tonight, imma order the LCD, to use with the Digitizer i already have... (do i need to glue them together or something?) unless someone has a good reason to do otherwise...
xeonight said:
OK, i have a question but it needs some background first:
i bought a DNA from the local Craigslist, the ad plainly said that the screen was cracked AND that they already had the replacement digitizer (i had not done enough research at this time, obviously or i wouldn't be here). So i love the phone, read all sorts of awesome reviews etc. I get home, i proceed to take the DNA apart (i have done this with multiple iPhones, and a couple other phones as well for various fixes, so it's not foreign to me)
so, i finally reach the screen, and come to realize that the LCD is FACTORY GLUED to the Digitizer.
so, my question is this, can i:
1. Order JUST an LCD and install it WITH the Digitizer/Glass that i have already (from the Craigslist seller) or
2. do i HAVE to order the WHOLE ASSEMBLY, and somehow FIND a way to sell this Digitizer? (and of course, as any good forum needs, WHY?)
hmm, seems like more than one question, but you get the idea... if i left any pertinent information out, just let me know.
EDIT: ok, since it's sunday i'm holding out on ordering anything, but before i go to bed tonight, imma order the LCD, to use with the Digitizer i already have... (do i need to glue them together or something?) unless someone has a good reason to do otherwise...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just broke my screen
Was wondering what you came up with on this. I ordered the glass, and im assuming mine is glued too.
What did you end up doing?
Same boat here too. Just broke my screen earlier this afternoon. I called one place (ubreakifix.com) and they won't touch a DNA due to the glue issue. Anyone gotten one repaired?
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
yearn2burn said:
Same boat here too. Just broke my screen earlier this afternoon. I called one place (ubreakifix.com) and they won't touch a DNA due to the glue issue. Anyone gotten one repaired?
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FIRST: i HIGHLY recommend you get the LCD AND Digitizer assembly to avoid all this headache I describe below.
i wrote a HUGE reply last night, around midnight Mountain time, only to press 'preview post' and a page come up saying the website is down temporarily or something... and it was all lost... anyway...
i have my phone in a usable state, but only after 3 tries, and am still planning to open it up again to put more 'finishing touches' in there;
first time i opened it up: removed broken screen/LCD, at this point i didn't know that the LCD was glued (original post). So i ordered the LCD like i said i was gonna do, and the first time i put it in, i tried to hot glue it into the frame, this didn't work for a couple reasons; it was allowing light in on the sides of the LCD and it was allowing particles in on top of the lcd under the glass (very irritating).
EDIT: just wanted to add, that the screen is stuck to the frame, it SEEMS to be glue, but once you get it apart, you see that it's just really strong double sided tape, and you have to heat it up to get the glass off of the frame.
second time i opened it up: i decided to super glue the LCD to the digitizer (only used 4 spots of glue), this caused a pressure problem, still not sure why, but it was like the LCD pressure when you put your finger on a non-glass laptop screen (similar anyway).
Third time i opened it up, i figured i would follow a similar process of the HTC Evo 4g that i fixed for a friend, and i had a roll of REALLY THIN double sided tape left over (you can find the tape on amazon, just search for "2mm 3m adhesive sticker tape"); my first try i just put a strip of tape on the top of the glass, at the lowest i could without it going into the 'viewable area' and the same on the bottom, i stuck the lcd on here lightly, didn't push it down yet so i could see if there were any problems, and there were. The LCD likes to flex slightly, so i needed some tape on the sides to keep it from bowing up against the glass, and causing another 'pressure spot', so i added one small strip of tape on both sides to help with that, and it's working really well right now
THIS is where my phone stands as of this writing.
I'm still planning on opening it up yet again (getting good at it lol) to add more tape around the sides AND (this is important if your annoyed by little things) CUT THE EXCESS TAPE that is sticking out past the LCD as this holds the glass up from the frame by a small amount, but it's enough to be annoying. I also want to say DO NOT simply run a razor blade down the side of the LCD to cut the excess tape off as you'll cut the TINY Digitizer connections underneath the tape, and then you would have to get a whole 'nother digitizer and nobody wants to do that.
as always, this is just my opinion and what i've found ON MY PHONE, so if anything here causes damage to your phone, i'm not responsible.
Your superglue mention caught my eye. I made that mistake several years ago with a device that wasn't touch screen. what I didn't plan for was the fumes. As the gasses evaporated they sort of melted/etched the glass or plastic around them. The pressure you mentioned could it be from the superglue or fumes breaking the material down?
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
I have also tried seperating the digitizer from the LCD and phone itself. There seems to be the double sided tape only on the LCD. Then there is a different adhesive on the top around the camera. These pics may show it a little better.
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I have yet to find a digitizer with the adhesive already on it. I'm waiting on adhesive for a note 2 which I should be able to trim to fit. Replacing the whole digitizer assembly is easier but a lot more expensive.
krazya said:
I have also tried seperating the digitizer from the LCD and phone itself. There seems to be the double sided tape only on the LCD. Then there is a different adhesive on the top around the camera. These pics may show it a little better.
View attachment 1946508
View attachment 1946509
I have yet to find a digitizer with the adhesive already on it. I'm waiting on adhesive for a note 2 which I should be able to trim to fit. Replacing the whole digitizer assembly is easier but a lot more expensive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should have my glass in tomorrow or friday. Will report back.
CharliesTheMan said:
Your superglue mention caught my eye. I made that mistake several years ago with a device that wasn't touch screen. what I didn't plan for was the fumes. As the gasses evaporated they sort of melted/etched the glass or plastic around them. The pressure you mentioned could it be from the superglue or fumes breaking the material down?
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i used really old superglue, so it took like an hour or some-such to dry, but i think the pressure was from glueing it in the wrong place, and the frame putting pressure on it somewhere. But you could be right too, either way, superglue is NOT a good idea
So the digitizer and LCD can be pulled from each other? Just got to be careful?
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2
sorry about the half off topic question
if i will order LCD that already come with digitzier attached to him.
there is a problem to replace the old lcd & digitizer ?
cuz as i read here, there big problem is to replace only the digitizer..
incident said:
if i will order LCD that already come with digitzier attached to him.
there is a problem to replace the old lcd & digitizer ?
cuz as i read here, there big problem is to replace only the digitizer..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
correct, the only problem is if they're separate, if you order the whole assembly, Digitizer and LCD already glued together (recommended), then the only issue you'll have is getting the broken glass off of the frame's adhesive, just be careful, use heat, but not too much because the frame is NOT metal, it actually doesn't take much to soften that frame's adhesive, i used the heat off my little desk lamp, worked great, could only do one 'section' of the phone at a time, but that's all you need.
xeonight said:
correct, the only problem is if they're separate, if you order the whole assembly, Digitizer and LCD already glued together (recommended), then the only issue you'll have is getting the broken glass off of the frame's adhesive, just be careful, use heat, but not too much because the frame is NOT metal, it actually doesn't take much to soften that frame's adhesive, i used the heat off my little desk lamp, worked great, could only do one 'section' of the phone at a time, but that's all you need.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer, one more question please..
The screen himself - that i will pull out of the phone, isnt glued to the body of the phone?
incident said:
Thanks for your answer, one more question please..
The screen himself - that i will pull out of the phone, isnt glued to the body of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it it stuck to the body, but no, it's not glue, it's just really strong double sided tape, and needs heat to help it let go of the pieces
hey,
I know this thread is over a month old but I recently just shattered the digitizer on my DNA as well and haven't really seen one of the most important questions answered.
For those of you that replaced the the entire assembly, is the quality of the OEM LCDs as good as the original? I know it's extremely time consuming to melt the adhesive and have everything back in one piece, but if the quality of the S-LCD3 on the original is better than the OEM replacement ones I would spend the extra time to do it.
Shinkenshi said:
hey,
I know this thread is over a month old but I recently just shattered the digitizer on my DNA as well and haven't really seen one of the most important questions answered.
For those of you that replaced the the entire assembly, is the quality of the OEM LCDs as good as the original? I know it's extremely time consuming to melt the adhesive and have everything back in one piece, but if the quality of the S-LCD3 on the original is better than the OEM replacement ones I would spend the extra time to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe there's a difference, OEM stands for 'Original Equipment Manufacturing', so that SHOULD mean it's the same as original.
I'm no expert tho, just a guy with a phone trying to get by on a budget.
GOOD NEWS!
the whole 'assembly' (the digitizer AND LCD glued together as it was from factory) is now down to under 100$ US on eBay!
on a side note, i dropped my phone a couple weeks ago and broke the top right corner, nothing else is wrong, just a crack in the top right corner, going from the ear-speaker to the right edge
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
The likelihood the digitizer isn't cracked is very low.
NABI2 touchscreen layering:
front glass..............thick (glue around outer most edges to frame)
airgap......................very thin (glue around edges)
digitizer glass........thin
lcd............................thick
I tried the same thing but the actual digitizer glass is like 1/10 the thickness of the front panel glass and glued to it on the edges. If the digitizer glass is not cracked, it will probably crack on attempted removal from the front panel. If the digitizer is fully working in-spite of the front glass cracking it may be possible to heat the front assembly up to the point the adhesive allows the glass to just fall out.... but as far as how close the glue melting point is to the melting point of the plastic frame is not something I know. The entire assembly is put together with some super strong double-sided sticky tape. If you can source just the digitizer and glass assembly I'd like to know.
Once one attempts a replacement and it doesn't work is it still possible to get Fuhu/Nabi to replace the screen (at reasonable cost)?
( If not you could just plug in a keyboard/mouse and use the hdmi out... would make a great XBMC server... once the port exists... )
.
Pictures?
oranrene7 said:
Okay, so my Terminator...errr, my son, managed to crack the heck out of his Nabi 2 digitizer screen. The LCD screen is fine and he can still use the Nabi, but I've noticed more and more cracks so I'm sure it's bound to break the LCD.
So, I went on eBay and ordered a piece of glass, but I'm not thinking it's not going to work. It was only like 13 bucks. I had a model number given to me after the fact (at070tn90), and I just looked and I didn't get that one. I'm just hoping it will work.
At any rate, I finally got the Nabi apart, but I've been fearful of removing the connectors for the screen. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the screen apart so I can try to replace it when I get the correct glass for it? PLEASE! There are NO Youtube vids for this...tons for the Nexus 7, but nada for Nabi.
Please help...I'm desperate! Thanks so much!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
manx_73 said:
Do you have any pictures of the digitizer and ribbon cable? Also location of the cable and size measurements.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already put it back together because he was taking everyone's iPhones to play games on. lol The glass anatomizer (or whatever it's called), had a long thin strip and the LCD had a thicker one. Either way, the glass nowhere near fit. I had a feeling it was going to be too hard to replace anyway; hence the reason I can't seem to find a tutorial on fixing a Nabi.
And yes, Fuhu will fix it for like 85 bucks plus shipping...I only paid 90 for the tablet just recently (Craigslist). Oh well. I guess we'll just let him play till he cuts his finger.
Thank you both so much for your input. I appreciate it
Help replacing Nabi2 digitizer screen...
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
ChipStewart said:
Any luck on this?
I have a Nabi 2 on which I've removed the broken digitizer. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated. I had to keep the heat gun on the glass and avoid heat-damage to the plastic. I used a small knife between the digitizer and the plastic frame. Next time, I may heat and bend a cheap knife into a Z shape to get under the glass without lifting it too much. I did get it out in some large pieces, but am not sure if I could do it intact if it hadn't been cracked.
Anyhow, the LCD looks great, but I can't seem to find the digitizer anywhere. The ribbon cable has a sticker with the following:
EP0700MLM1
12073*A1G.
272
View attachment 2625405
and on the back side above the chip, is:
40-90121-0
EDT REV.C
View attachment 2625413
on the inside glass is:
85701165
View attachment 2625417
The tiny text in the upper-right corner and written in mirror-image is:
XT2DA5A0118-EP0700 B1
I tried running the text through Google and aliexpress.com / alibaba.com, but to no avail. Anyone else have any luck?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
brianbri6 said:
I am also looking for the same digitizer model any luck? Anyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
rex.torres said:
I am sorry for bringing back an old thread, but has anyone found a source for a proper replacement part for this? I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement part for the digitizer in my nabi2. It's as if nobody makes a replacement for the digitizers with EP0700MLM1 on the ribbon cable. About the only choice I have now is to find a used part, and pray that it also has the same kind of LCD screen within the housing.
--Rex
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am looking at a few on Fleabay now. You need to take yours apart and compare model numbers with the ones on Ebay. Just search ebay for Nabi 2 digitizer. about 20 results for it, ranging from $25 -65. The $65 one is a complete front panel minus the LCD. just unscrew the top panel and replace, it looks like.
Wow...I'm the original poster...and here I am years later still bothering with Nabi! lol In 2014, I went on Nabi's site and paid $60 to have the digitizer replaced. I never sent the Nabi in because a friend of mine gave me his kid's Nabi to use for parts (he couldn't get it to charge any longer). I took the entire front panel with LCD and digitizer and replaced it with mine. Worked like a charm...until my younger son stepped on it...on purpose! Lil turd! So, here I am again trying to fix the screen, BUT, this time I noted that I needed the LCD and the digitizer (the ribbon on the LCD was breaking off - not sure how that could have happened). At any rate, I ordered both the digitizer and LCD. I replaced them both and it's a no-go...not working. I still have it apart, but I have the cables plugged in, so when I move the screen around, the Nabi screen will come up, but the touchscreen isn't working. I may be sending the digitizer back, but I'm wondering if it's because of how they are lying on one another. Does anyone know if maybe the touchscreen doesn't work if it's too close or too far from the LCD screen. I don't mean by an obvious amount - I mean is there a "specific" amount of space. I am trying to get it in the casing exactly like it was before, but I don't want to do anything permanent until I know it's working 100%.
Also, you can easily and cheaply get the LCD and digitizer for the Nabi now - just stinks you have to order it from China and it takes forever to get here! I can only imagine how long a return/replacement is going to take. Ugh!
Oh, and Nabi has yet to return my $60 bucks...I have spent way too much on this tablet!
I ended up having to match my part number to a used but good part off of ebay. I had ordered several "new" digitizers and they never worked. There seemed to have been a design change somewhere along the line, or some missing information that made mine not work with the "new" parts available at the time.
However, to answer your question, the digitizer will work completely separated from the LCD as long as the ribbon cable is attached (of course). Rather than reassembling everything, I would only connect the digitizer to see if it worked. When I finally found one that worked, I then committed to doing the full repair.
It was a very painful process.
Is it an easy thing to take apart and put bk together if you have never done this before my daughter stood on her Nabi accident it was under her comfort blankie opps screen cracked but works fine she's only 2 ( well advanced for her age) soI dnt want her to use it incase she cuts her tiny fingers doesn't feel sharp but dnt want to risk it can't find any view on u tube still many years on be nice if someone would do one haha
Honestly...
It was a pain in the ass to remove the glass / digitizer from the nabi. If you're not careful--as I was--it is real easy to deform the plastic bezel that the glass / digitizer and LCD reside in. I ended up having to buy a replacement bezel that already had a digitizer and LCD attached to it. The LCD was DOA, but the one from my original was fine, so I begrudgingly transplanted that too.
Test the digitizer FIRST before committing to installing it on the plastic bezel.