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Hello,
I bought the XDA IIs from a friend of mine in the U.K a month ago.
Everything works fine except that the STYLUS DOES NOT LOCK on to the groove provided behind the phone.
No matter how hard I push in it just would lock!!!
It was locking fine just an hour ago!!
After I charged the XDA IIs through a hotsync cable this problem seems to have arised.
Is there anything I can do at home to rectify the problem.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!
P.S - I have tried with a new pair of styli though and even they wouldn't lock in.!!!
Same problem here
I have learned to use it without the "pen". Losed two already!
nannlp said:
Hello,
I bought the XDA IIs from a friend of mine in the U.K a month ago.
Everything works fine except that the STYLUS DOES NOT LOCK on to the groove provided behind the phone.
No matter how hard I push in it just would lock!!!
It was locking fine just an hour ago!!
After I charged the XDA IIs through a hotsync cable this problem seems to have arised.
Is there anything I can do at home to rectify the problem.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!
P.S - I have tried with a new pair of styli though and even they wouldn't lock in.!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES!!
:lol: Fingers work better than the PEN
AND leads to a form of exercise too... :wink:
The only drawback being while typing multiple letters get punched & b'comes a pain to delete them all :evil:
Re: YES!!
Could be VERY "handy" to have more "finger-optimized" options on the screen... I now really find the "stick" a ver slowww "extra". :roll:
nannlp said:
:lol: Fingers work better than the PEN
AND leads to a form of exercise too... :wink:
The only drawback being while typing multiple letters get punched & b'comes a pain to delete them all :evil:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
finger optimization
huh !!! you could do something like a more finger friendly usage with XDA IIs!??? :shock:
How do you do that?
HELP!!!1
THANK YOU
Pockpctechs.com I thought had a fix for this?
I have this same problem but I just bought more replacement syluses and also make sure the device is in the normal position when I am wearing it.
Check www.pocketpctechs.com
what i did is open the back housing, put rubber sticker inside the place where stylus stay. now is tighter than before.
Hello
same problem, but realy easy to fix.
You have to use insulating tape (sorry, i don't know if this is the correct english name. This tape is used for insulating two elettrical wires connected togheter.)
So, you have to cut about 4mm x 1.5cm of this tape and then you have to turn around it on the top of your stylus.
This will produce a little gain of soft thickness right in the place where the stylus is in contact with your PDA.
My stylus slot was broken about one year ago: i used this insulating tape, and i have never lost my stylus.
follow some pictures... i have used white insulating tape in order to produce cleat photos: of course, you have to use black tape, as you can see in the last picture
Please try this link posted in wiki. This has details of how to fix a loose stylus.
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=BA_Sty_stopper
Regards
Sethuram
O2XDAiis
May need to modify length of tape, so experiment
Thank you Ronzino for this idea . I am now trying it out and it seems very good and yes, we do call it insulating tape in English btw, (at least in UK English).
I think it depends on the thickness of the insulating tape used, but I have found that I needed to cut the tape a bit shorter, for the stylus to fit. So it is worth experimenting on this.
I am guessing that the glue might soften in very hot weather, causing the tape to slide a bit, and make a bit of a mess, but this seems a minor problem compared to having to open uo my Blue Angel, which I reluctant to try. One can always clean up and use a fresh bit of tape.
I dare say it might be handy if manufacturers could perhaps produce stylus' in a way that overcomes this problem. One stylus I have seen has a small, rear springed, ball bearing inset on one side of it which would solve this problem. Unfortunately they do not seem to do these with the Blue Angel pecs in mind though.
almunday said:
Thank you Ronzino for this idea . I am now trying it out and it seems very good and yes, we do call it insulating tape in English btw, (at least in UK English).
I think it depends on the thickness of the insulating tape used, but I have found that I needed to cut the tape a bit shorter, for the stylus to fit. So it is worth experimenting on this.
I am guessing that the glue might soften in very hot weather, causing the tape to slide a bit, and make a bit of a mess, but this seems a minor problem compared to having to open uo my Blue Angel, which I reluctant to try. One can always clean up and use a fresh bit of tape.
I dare say it might be handy if manufacturers could perhaps produce stylus' in a way that overcomes this problem. One stylus I have seen has a small, rear springed, ball bearing inset on one side of it which would solve this problem. Unfortunately they do not seem to do these with the Blue Angel pecs in mind though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was suggested a while back (in fact, there was something about this in the wiki). For the most part, the section of the casing in charge of holding the stylus in place gets warped/cracked from use. Making the body of the stylus thicker allows the center to be locked rather than the top. Not sure about the glue, but for this to go bad, temps have to be rather high...
Instead of wrapping tape around your stylus, you can also take a 4x6mm piece of soft rubber and stick it inside the housing just behind the hook which should hold the pen.
You need 1,5mm material, if the hook is still there and you just want to improve the tightnes of your clasp, and 3-4mm if it is gone.
edit: replaced the missing clasp by using some piece of nylon- attached pic shows where i've taken it from. Glued this tiny part into the bay of the broken clasp and placed some mossrubber behind it as described above.
Works really good, and no tape smearing around in your housing
(Note: don't use cyanacrylate, it's like cancer to our housing...)
Hey guys and girls. I have a 8525 and the tip of the stylus broke off my phone while I was trying to remove it. Now the stylus is stuck in the phone and I need assistance in removing it without opening the phone.
Remember only the plastc tip on the end broke off. I tried tweezers but they were too large. Suggestions please.
Try an unfolded paperclip. If you can see the tip but still can't get it out, I would try some superglue on the end of the paperclip and put it on the tip until it sets...
Rif_Luna said:
Try an unfolded paperclip. If you can see the tip but still can't get it out, I would try some superglue on the end of the paperclip and put it on the tip until it sets...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that a spot of superglue on the end of something is probably the way. Though personally I'd take the back off to remove it. I think a paperclip might be too thin and a bit hit or miss - but if you are not short of time then maybe you can spend the day fishing for it!!.
Just so we know where it is lodged - it is stuck in the white clip in these pictures (taken from another thread with a slightly different purpose).
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1206800&postcount=35
One thing you MUST avoid if you use a spot of superglue on a rod of some sort is hitting the rubber block on the way up the silo. If you touch that with superglue it will stick fast and will likely unstick the block if you try to pull it out again. If you use this technique it would be VITAL to keep the rod you are inserting against the back side of the slot to avoid hitting the rubber block.
Mike
Mike
Okay guys. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know my results. Also only the tip of the stylus broke so I don't have to worry about the rubber pad. In fact, the rubber pad is what is keeping the stylus in the phone because I could never get a good enough grip to get past it.
Success!
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
addicus said:
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done!
.... and I had misunderstood! I thought it was just the little greyish pointing tip that was stuck in the slot. Obviously the part that came off was at the opposite end. Not that it matters now
Mike
Mine broke like that on my old wizard, and the broken off plastic was still inside the stylus body, so there was nothing to grip. It was still in warranty, and I didnt want to have to send it off, so I had to drill into the stylus, and then stuck a small screwdriver through the hole and worked it out.
jez83uk said:
Mine broke like that on my old wizard, and the broken off plastic was still inside the stylus body, so there was nothing to grip. It was still in warranty, and I didnt want to have to send it off, so I had to drill into the stylus, and then stuck a small screwdriver through the hole and worked it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finding a drill long and skinny enough to accomplish that must have been difficult. Granted I also have a Wizard (8125) and the stylus opening is slightly more accessible. I think that is a great option if it occurs again.
this happened to me on the same exact phone.. I used a paperclip and a lighter.. I heated up the paperclip with the lighter then pushed it into the plastic that was left in the broken end in the phone.. waited a few moments for the paperclip to cool down then simply pulled it out.
worked great.
addicus said:
What's up fellas? I have finally went to work and got the stylus removed from my phone. I used a very small screwdriver to slowly pull it out and did not need crazy glue, a safety clip or to take the phone apart.
Thanks for all the assistance. I have included a picture of the stylus so you can see where it broke. The picture is with it extended, but remember it was compact when it was in the phone.
Peace, love and sex!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i guess it a issue ..8525 so i found easy way a toothpick fits righ in and conforms to the shape...
I replaced my screen after I broke it by following the instructions in this pdf guide: (New user, so I cant post links, sorry!) His site begins with rdtk, perhaps you have seen it.
The guide refers to a 'brown part that can flip up' when removing the digitizer cable connection but I couldn't see it. However his photos show it clearly:
(New user, cant post links, sorry!)
However I didn't find those photos until after I had reassembled it.
The Streak boots OK (so the on/off button works!) but gets to the screen where I have to enter a pin code and I then discovered that the screen is unresponsive to touch input. So I cant get past the pin code screen. The screen itself is working fine but is no longer touch responsive.
I have removed the case a couple of times, but the brown flip part is clearly missing and I wonder was it always missing or did I break it.
The cable seems a fairly loose fit so perhaps without the flip up part it is not making a good connection.
Any ideas how I can fix this predicament?
Thanks, Bernie.
Please use the Q&A Forum for questions Thanks
Moving to Q&A
Maybe try removing your new screen and comparing it with old make sure all connections are the same, also check all connections are secure just incase something aint slotted right
Sent from my Dell Streak using xda premium
The clip thing is defo there, Ive done it loads of times, the thing does go in quite tight, but maybe you ripped out the old screen without unclipping it, and in turn the old connector had broke off inside the clip, and its blocking the connection to he new screen?
No, the old cable is intact and there's nothing blocking the connector. I suspect I misunderstood the instructions I was following and ripped out the ribbon without unclamping the flip up brown clamp, I was trying to flip up what I thought he was referring to but now see it was just part of the cable. Thus I damaged the clamp and it's now gone. I suspect that my problem is that the ribbon cable is now not being held securely, so in a desperate bid to save this I think I will try and make a tiny wedge and wedge it on top of the cable to press it down securely onto the contacts in the connector.
If I could source a bricked Streak, I might be able to salvage the brown clips and re-use them but chances of getting one in Australia are low.
i had the same problem, just get a sturdy business card and cut it up into a little piece and use that to wedge it on top of the cable
Thanks illa, I will try that.
I am here to kneel before you.
I did the exact same thing due to following a guide that didn't really emphasize this very important point about the clamps.
At first I wasn't sure.I thought I had just screwed up or may be my replacement screen was bad.
Upon closer inspection I broke two of the clamps,and noticed that the one that attaches to the digitizer was just a little loose. Sure enough the biz card wedge did the trick.
Thank you !
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
HEXAHN said:
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
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Click to collapse
You can't fix this by yourself, unfortunately. It's glued on with some special adhesive, the contacts are to tiny to solder. The glue you buy on ebay (i assume), next problem is getting the flex cable on the right place and keep it their while glueing.....
You can look for a motherboard replacement, only last time i checked it's almost as expensive as a new phone.
Some manufacturers use small clamps for the flex cable, i assume glue is the trade off for this tiny device...
I've been to this hassle myself, i ended up on buying a new ultra
Has someone have any other suggestions? Have detached the main flex from the board. Had the main flex broken, wanted to fix, but know it's just disassembled. Had display problems before.
Can someone have some ideas? like those clamps you mentioned.
Bro your beating a dead horse, just buy a used one online
hot bar soldering attachment, anisotropic adhesive film/tape( apparently you can buy this for whole sale only. lucky for me the company I work with has spare trimmings of this), microscope or powerful magnifying glass and a lot of patience.
bump, i am in this boat, there must be a dozen lines on the cable, i cant imagine soldering it without shorting it out....
Why do they sell those toys that cannot be repaired by the way?
I'm in the same boat an all y'all being no help are no help so bump outta here already cuz everyone else in this boat looking for the answer doesn't wanna WASTE THEIR TIME on your helpless posts.
To recap we have the solder method which sounds like rubbish as flex cables melt.
Then there's that kind of adhesive glue and/or tape. Clamping is the reason phone companies profits dwindled until they switched to this new clampless method. I'm not gonna buy in bulk cuz I'm not about to start up a cell phone chop shop so maybe get a magnifying headset, some Walmart super glue that says mess free, and use a needle to dab the glue on in the right points but don't cover any contacts!
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
I also recently experienced, looking at google solution does not get the information.
Try YouTube? I'm sure it applies to other z models
jigzerx said:
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
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I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
lesterine said:
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
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Click to collapse
Can u explain me how u attached the flex cable back to its place. I didnt full understud this explanation. Have the same problem hoping u can help me.
using the soldering iron t shape tip, step 1 using the scraper to scrap away the glue then install the silicone strip to heat the flex cable on the board. hope this help.
Have same problem too! When I transferred the board with the power/volume button flex cable to a new housing, I accidentally lifted part of the flex cable causing my XZU C6833 not to boot up, no vibration and no screen image.
And can't seem to find any tutorial on how to properly attach the said cable onto the main board.
Will try lesterine's solution.