Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Killer95Stang said:
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
chamberc said:
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any way to actually test this? Can use a voltmeter type tester to check continuity from one side of each pin to the other? They are hair like in size, so not sure the standard tests are the same.
Thanks..
My DIY experience...
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
ThomasKJ said:
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Killer95Stang said:
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure that your LCD is broken. It might just be the connection to the motherboard that is bad as chamberc said. I had the same problem with my broken screen. I had to wiggle the cable to get a partial correct picture on my screen. I tried to clean the pads without getting a 100% stable connection so I might have broken the flex cable as well, but normally these are relatively good at flexing without braking (they are made to do that) so I tend to think that it is the connection in the connector.
Until I figure out what to do with the touch screen I have not spend more time on root casuing it, but I suggest that you try to take the flex out of the connector and clean it with either a erasor or a cloth with alcohol and then gently put it back into the connector. Also ensure that you put it in the right way and close the hatch properly.
Good luck.
On the touch screen issue, my touch screen is working fine it JUST has a reverted x-axis, so it would still cause your colors to change, so I'm very curious if yours is working. Could you also share the touch screen part number (printed on the flex cable) and TF201 hardware version (TF201-1B or TF201-1I or???) This should be written on the label of the box and on the warrenty card.
The background for me asking about this, is that asusparts.eu has different spare parts depending on if is for TF201-1B or TF201-1I so there might be two versions of the hardware out there. Mine is a TF201-1B.
I recently replaced the screen and lcd on my rezound, however after doing so it seems that the nav buttons no longer light up, also my screen within 3-4 days now accumulates excessive dust under the screen. I'm not sure whether the nav buttons normally do not light up after the lcd get replaced because the same thing happened when changing it on my droid incredible.
However the real question is how to stop this dust. I have opened and cleaned it multiple times and even made sure everything was nice and tight (i.e. no missing screws and stuff) Any ideas on how to fix these problems?
Do you have the adhesive layer between the digitizer and LCD?
I have the same issue with my phone, I really miss the lights. I'm about to open it up and see if I can see why...
And about the screen, you got the digitizer + glass combo right? I have the same thing. Try taking the glass off, use compressed air to get everything off the screen then make sure it's a tight fit with the adhesive when you put it back on lol.
In the general section there's a thread from a while ago about replacing the digitizer. You might get some tips from that if you can find it.
Here's a few:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2046140&highlight=replace+digitizer
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1698329&highlight=replace+digitizer
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1938836&highlight=replace+digitizer
Hey!
A few months ago I dropped my SK17 and the screen cracked. Despite being cracked and with pieces falling apart, the screen worked perfectly. Yesterday I dropped my phone again and it stopped responding to touch. The screen looks exactly as before falling but it stopped responding to touch. The soft keys still work. Will replacing the screen solve the problem? I already flashed my phone to an original firmware but it solved nothing. I don't mind replacing the screen and spending a few bucks to get my phone working but I'd like to be sure if the problem's in the lcd.
Well, yeah, your touch digitizer might have hit it's stress breakpoint. Replacing the screen assembly will do the trick.
In case you didn't know, the display and touch glass are glued on the xmp, which makes replacements more expensive than expected. But whatever the cost is, it's better to spend ~35 bucks and restore your phone's full functionality than to keep using it like a brackberry haha.
Be extremely careful if you plan on replacing it yourself. Look around for the best/most trusted repair shop/center if you plan on sending it to someone else for repair. You really don't want to deal with wonky touch response or bad color reproduction because of a cheap replacement part, I know, I've been there.
Thanks, I was thinking in replacing the screen myself. I've already disassembled the phone up to the screen but I didn't took it off. Is it hard to take it off and put the new screen on? Do I have to glue it to the front cover?
Ok, if you have dissasembled the phone and assembled it back successfully, you already know the basic structure, so that's good.
The screen assembly is glued to the plastic + metal frame, and it's pretty hard to pry it apart. Make sure to use non-metallic prying tools and a heat gun (a hair drier will do fine). Using a heat gun gives you a chance to reuse the original double-sided tape, which is strong enough to keep the screen from lifting. Replacing this tape is not a good idea because aftermarket tape is not nearly as strong as the one that came with the phone (unless you manage to get 3M VHB tape).
Once you stuck the screen assembly to the frame, be extra careful when putting everything back in place. The frame has tiny clips which need to be PERFECTLY aligned, otherwise... you'll know it when you get there haha. You can leave the frame in place without the screws, it'll be easier to open it again in case something goes wrong (you wont need to open the phone from the back to access the display)
So i replaced the front glass on my s4. everything went pretty smoothly for the 3+ hours I was at it. Until this morning, now the touch is acting up. I'v been using the "yet another multitouch" app to test. It'l register additional "ghost" touches say like when I touch screen with two fingers it registers 3 separate touches. Also when I touch in one spot it will register for a only a second or two.
I hate life at this point, I'm at a loss. I'm going mental.
There's no dust/water/gunk under the screen I know this for I cleaned it dry it hasnt been near any source of liquid.
I don't know if there is something I missed? a specific part of the phone that needs to be entirely clean for the glass to register with the digitizer? I'm still amazed at how it just registers through the glass....
thanks ?
Bump....
I'm having the same problem...
something isn't aliened/sitting right or there is dirt(even if you can't see it)
what did you use to clean it ? 90% rubbing alcohol is the only option anything else will leave residue, do no use acetone(nail-polish remover) you will permanently damage the LCD and or digitizer
or the replacement front-glass is warped which if you bought from some random "china seller" is very likely
These past few days, I've been noticing unresponsiveness to touch in a certain part of my screen. This screenshot shows what I mean. I never lifted my finger while drawing, and I swiped up and down continuously. The middle band of unmarked screen seems to be failing and only works when pressed harder. Am I going to have to get it repaired? I'm tempted to use this as an excuse to jump to the G4 when it comes out but I'd rather get this fixed if there's any way I can do it
marky310 said:
These past few days, I've been noticing unresponsiveness to touch in a certain part of my screen. This screenshot shows what I mean. I never lifted my finger while drawing, and I swiped up and down continuously. The middle band of unmarked screen seems to be failing and only works when pressed harder. Am I going to have to get it repaired? I'm tempted to use this as an excuse to jump to the G4 when it comes out but I'd rather get this fixed if there's any way I can do it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recently broke my screen glass and digitizer. I had a region that was vertically oriented that didn't work over the rest of the screen. It is possible that the digitizer or maybe connections to the digitizer are broken. I ended up buying a new screen, as it comes with the digitizer and glass. Reading about it sounded like a huge pain to even think about just replacing the digitizer and glass. The new screen was around $70-80 on Amazon. Process was well documented on iFixit and youtube. The only problem I had was that I didn't receive my order of adhesive tape and didn't want to wait. Now I have a 1 inch area that leaks light. I can live with it until I decide it is worth cracking open again to properly seal it up.