From http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=44929981#post44929981
plaster said:
What lg could have done, was put an aluminum heatsink that had a thin fin that spread to all four sides of the phone that would dissipate the heat from the center. Then again, I haven't ripped my phone apart. It may have that already.
Sent from my Optimus G using Tapatalk 2
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[r.]GimP said:
I've ripped it apart a few times, no fin, but there is enough clearance to do so, I might give that a shot just because.
Not sure of the potential interference to cell signal though..
Good idea regardless, even aluminum foil at that close proximity with maybe thermal compound or a pad would do more than nothing, in theory.
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(edit - all that tape covers areas i didn't want to short, antenna connections mostly. )
View attachment 2220069
So I actually went for it. This is 8 layers of aluminum foil stacked, by folding on of the precut sheets on top of itself until it almost exactly matched the internal dimensions of the LGOG.
This picture is slightly dated, The red+blue borderd box indicates more material I had removed and is no longer present in the rear cover of the phone. The WiFi antenna is located in the backplate for our phone, I thought it wouldn't be affected by the foil but there were two seperate issues.
1.) The contacts themselves didn't always make contact, effectively leaving no antenna.
2.) wireless signal sucked
Also, directly under that area on the opposide side of our mainboard is the LTE antenna. Again *should* is the key work that in theory it would run with no issues, able to radiate out the front of the device.
1.) LTE signal was dramatically impacted. Disabling LTE and using 4g showed fantastic signal. So if you don't use LTE or have LTE in your area this foil can stay, maybe increase the cutout around the contacts so WIFI antenna reattaches correctly.
Also note the cutout area on the bottom. That is our main antenna block attached to the speaker.
1.) Every part of the antenna areas has to be taped to try and use this area.
2.) Foil by itself with no thermal interface material is very unlikely to be sponging or collecting any heat at this relative distance from the hotspots anyway.
3.) Overall signal sucked, not worth it.
Take note of the two metal shims on the top and right of the battery. There is an almost entirely metal "basket" that houses every bit of our phone on the front side.
1.) This is in place to transfer some of the heat that the foil picks up from the transceiver module (metallic thing that is NOT taped over above the top right corner of the battery)
2.) This yeilds a very nice increase in thermal "density" overall. It is a much increased area over which has to heat to reach thermal equilibrium.
In the end I've been running this for about a week now. Placebo effect over and done, testing here and there and I can report.
It makes a dramatic impact on overall temperature regulation of the phone. It does not completely eliminate the hotspot on the back but it does spread it very effectively.
The phone can still reach "thermal saturation" as it were, and will given enough time. There is a weird tradeoff now involved, and I'd have to go back and test this separate to draw any definite conclusions, thusly;
1. You now have more material that can eventually heat up to the point where the phone throttles, this naturally takes much longer to occur (which is good)
however, in theory, this added material still has to find a way to radiate its heat, which might take LONGER to do so.
However, however: ..You also have a greatly increased the surface area that this material can dissipate heat over, so it could take LESS time.
Needs to be tested, but subjectively I can say it is better overall.
Most dramatic increases I get for my personal use case that made this worth it,
repeated restarts from multiple flashes and validating startup tweaks, voltage settings, governer advanced settings properly all taking and setting, etc. Much cooler overall, verified by constantly checking CPU and Battery temps during and after.
Running the phone on LTE, with bluetooth and GPS on, while actively navigating with maps, while actively streaming audio to my car stereo via bluetooth, while hooked up to car charger.
Does NOT hit the point where the screen is impossibly dim and refuses to charge because of how hot the phone gets doing this.
If you've used your LGOG as navigation while docked to a stand on your dash you know exactly how hot this phone can get. It also cools itself insanely faster after this.
Ultimate tradeoff: I have slightly less signal for LTE overall, and it's very slight. I could continue customizing my cutout, and will eventually, but this is working very well for now. It's almost much cleaner than the picture indicates, as once I finalized what worked I trimmed all the edges and cutouts around the backplate fasteners, etc.
Good luck and have fun if you're feeling adventurous.
Much cooler overall, verified by constantly checking CPU and Battery temps during and after.
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Could you share a few sample temps for comparison?
2.) Foil by itself with no thermal interface material is very unlikely to be sponging or collecting any heat at this relative distance from the hotspots anyway.
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Did you end up using thermal compound, and if so, where?
Ultimate tradeoff: I have slightly less signal for LTE overall, and it's very slight.
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Could you share a decibel amount of what you're used to getting, with regards to LTE signal, and what you are getting after the mod?
It's almost much cleaner than the picture indicates, as once I finalized what worked I trimmed all the edges and cutouts around the backplate fasteners, etc.
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Would you mind sharing an updated picture?
Overall, this is awesome! Great idea and I would definitely love to give this a shot myself.
ousoonerchase said:
Could you share a few sample temps for comparison?
Did you end up using thermal compound, and if so, where?
Could you share a decibel amount of what you're used to getting, with regards to LTE signal, and what you are getting after the mod?
Would you mind sharing an updated picture?
Overall, this is awesome! Great idea and I would definitely love to give this a shot myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes to all these things, except thermal compount, not yet anyway. I wouldn't mind updating and trying to do with comparisons, but in my ADHD world right now I'm trying to get ubuntu booting under chroot on my phone to see if I can compile source, for the hell of it.
dont feel like opening my phone up at this exact moment but I will, eventually.
lol, awesome. I'm too poor to take my phone apart, but if it needs a battery replacement before 2015, I'll definitely try this out. If you could machine a solid piece of aluminum, or even better, copper, it would work even better. :good:
plaster said:
lol, awesome. I'm too poor to take my phone apart, but if it needs a battery replacement before 2015, I'll definitely try this out. If you could machine a solid piece of aluminum, or even better, copper, it would work even better. :good:
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I've humored the idea of taking the much cleaned up foil template i made out, tracing it on paper, and getting a copper shim machined to the same size and similar thickness, believe you me
Wish I had the balls to do this
Sent from my Optimus G using XDA Premium HD app
Definitely gonna do this if i need to swap the battery anytime soon.
I remember you mentioning his on the BeanStalk thread. Didn't think you'd make a post. Well as an update for you, I go my dad to re-solder the battery connector, so it's like new i'm thinking i'll give this a try. I keep LTE off due to battery drain anyway.
You must live with spotty lte service. I get plenty of battery on lte with excellent signal strength. Your drain likely stems from frequently switching between lte and hspa
Sent from my Optimus G using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
,
Tesy
Qq
Sent from my LG-E970 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Related
So, I've been spending the better part of an hour scouring over the Anandtech teardown gallery of the prime trying to get a decent understanding of the GPS/WiFi antennas and the underlying design flaws which contribute to these features messing up; namely the giant metal shield of a cover and the placement of the antennas. They're not exactly in a bad place, but I guess Asus assumed that if you were using WiFi/GPS with your tablet then you would always do so with the screen facing the AP/satellites. In reality, mine at least, it's the back of the device generally pointing to these things. Maybe I place my network hubs in strange places and enjoy astronomy apps too much?
Now on to the actual question, especially to any of you who have gotten the device and been brave enough to peek inside it yourself; would creating my own plastic windows/metal grates within the aluminum backing actually help anything? Do these antennas broadcast a 360 degree signal or are they directional? The motherboard itself would allow decent signal to get to the transmitter wouldn't it, so long as the case does?
My order isn't set to ship for another month, but I think I'll be getting this tablet regardless of the known issues, though the audio/video problems with the miniHDMI port make me a bit nervous. This thing will still be a power-house even as better spec'd tablets come out, just like my single-core Desire Z is still pretty relevant and decent. Just not top-of-the-line, and it wasn't for any real amount of time, but that's just how these things go.
Ideally, the antenna would couple to the whole backplate, making a big slot antenna (but then it starts to risk being too directional). It's just as probably that the issue is noise or feeble pogo-pin connectors.
If you do make a cut-out, it needs to be about 1 wavelength larger than the outline of the antenna (and you risk de-tuning the antenna if it was designed to operate in close proximity to a groundplane)
tshoulihane said:
Ideally, the antenna would couple to the whole backplate, making a big slot antenna (but then it starts to risk being too directional). It's just as probably that the issue is noise or feeble pogo-pin connectors.
If you do make a cut-out, it needs to be about 1 wavelength larger than the outline of the antenna (and you risk de-tuning the antenna if it was designed to operate in close proximity to a groundplane)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coupling to the backplate, though increasing power decreases accuracy doesn't it?
I hadn't thought of the pogo-pins as a possible culprit, that's certainly possible.
Couldn't I make a couple windows and retro-fit either some plastic or plexi-glass into the design? Would that help keep from de-tuning, especially if kept to a small size with accurate positioning?
Thank you for the response, I know nothing of the finer details on GPS and other wireless signals.
*Edit: After re-reading and thinking, I actually understand what you're saying. Plastic or no, any cutout would need to be a very specific size larger than the antenna itself which would take more than I would be able to do I'm sure. Oh well, I know I'll still love this thing, so long as the miniHDMI works properly, I'll be happy. Phone's GPS works like a dream.
And now I apologize. I found it odd not finding topics on this, but now I've found them and have a bit more of an understanding on the matter. Namely that the cpu seems to have a strong possibility of creating interference for the chip. The casing apparently just worsens the issue.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
buxtahuda said:
And now I apologize. I found it odd not finding topics on this, but now I've found them and have a bit more of an understanding on the matter. Namely that the cpu seems to have a strong possibility of creating interference for the chip. The casing apparently just worsens the issue.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
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How sure are we about this? I've read that Apple puts their WiFi antenna behind the black plastic logo on their WiFi-only models for exactly this reason. Not only that, but on the 3g models they simply have all the wireless modules placed on top of the device where they are covered with black plastic as well.
It seems to me that a stupid plastic apple cutout - a complex geometric shape - is not likely capable of being as "tuned" as a rectangular cutout. Yet, I think it's safe to say that the 3G and WiFi versions of the iPad have similar if not identical WiFi performance. That is to say, I don't think manufactures are using the aluminum back for anything other than looking pretty. I think it's safe to hack away at.
Thoughts?
JazzMac251 said:
I don't think manufactures are using the aluminum back for anything other than looking pretty.
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Maybe for some heat dispersion too?
I wish they would start selling the back plate only (like they do with ipods etc)
That way i'm sure someone could cutout a shape and try the antenna behind a plastic window etc, but youd always have the option to put the original back.
I wouldnt mind modding mine after the garantee has ran out.
I think Asus might consider making an after-market backplate that they would fit to your Prime after they have fully tested the issues.
Docaroo said:
I think Asus might consider making an after-market backplate that they would fit to your Prime after they have fully tested the issues.
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I've been thinking that even if Asus didn't some third party will. And I'm willing to get to cutting the day it arrives if I can determine it'll help. However, I don't want just an open grate for dust and junk to get into. Maybe just a thin fabric filter, or should I close it up with some plastic/plexiglass and epoxy?
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
buxtahuda said:
I've been thinking that even if Asus didn't some third party will. And I'm willing to get to cutting the day it arrives if I can determine it'll help. However, I don't want just an open grate for dust and junk to get into. Maybe just a thin fabric filter, or should I close it up with some plastic/plexiglass and epoxy?
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
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I don't see why plastic wouldn't work. It's what the iPad has and it seems to work out in that case.
You should consider cross-posting this in the "General" forum. It is a "question", but the General forum gets a LOT more eyeballs.
JazzMac251 said:
I don't see why plastic wouldn't work. It's what the iPad has and it seems to work out in that case.
You should consider cross-posting this in the "General" forum. It is a "question", but the General forum gets a LOT more eyeballs.
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i agree, this post should be on general... this would be a great solution, a homemade plastic ipad-like hole... we need it, and if third party doesnt do this, we will have to do it...
well, but anyone tested the device without the case to see the real power of the wifi-gps-bt ?
Yakandu said:
i agree, this post should be on general... this would be a great solution, a homemade plastic ipad-like hole... we need it, and if third party doesnt do this, we will have to do it...
well, but anyone tested the device without the case to see the real power of the wifi-gps-bt ?
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I will be, but it's still a good two-four weeks before I have mine. All mentions of it I've seen in general never get answered, I haven't seen anyone comment on whether or not they've tried without the backing. Probably because most aren't willing to try and heat up the glue to do so or damage the thing in the process...
Some expertise required
Does the aluminium back plate attenuate both wifi and gps signals? From what I have read it seems to be confirmed that this is the situation, although other factors such as internal interference have NOT been discounted, nor has the connection method (gold pogo pin) between motherboard and the antennae (blackened out pcb strip). I have noted on the TF101 Transformer teardown, a very similar placement of both WIFI and GPS antennae to that on the TF201 Transformer Prime - near the top edge and adjacent each other. Looking at similarities between models, an obvious and perhaps too simple explination would be the aluminium back plate. There does seem to be some interest in experimenting with making some holes (similar to the speaker grill), on the back plate in front of the antennae in the hope that it MAY improve reception. I have read numerous posts and was hoping that someone may have tried this. I don't want to hear about the merits of having or not having a GPS and how it matters to them personaly etc - lets focus people, but whether someone has had the ability and knowledge to try it. I am unsure given the wavelength of both GPS and WIFI (1.2 / 1.5 Ghz) whether mutliple small holes would do it. I feel that a transparent plastic window may be required. I do not believe the back plate is used a coupled ground plate etc. and it is used purely as the chasis. Come on - there has to be some smart engineering graduates/professionals who are willing to give this a go...it would have been nice if they were paid by ASUS but that seems unlikely. Point to note - that the GPS and WIFI antennas (there are two for the WIFI on the TF201) would be obtaining some reception through the front gorilla glass and plastic (on which the antennae are mounted). My question is - what and IF modifications are necessary to the back plate to obtain better reception. Any ideas?
I have not seen a single test where anyone proved it was the back plate. Anyone have a link to a test that shows the prime navigating successfully without the back plate?
Since it's the aluminum back that's supposedly blocking the signal, one could theoretically cutout or punch some small holes over the wireless device akin to the speaker port. Then since the back is so easily stretchable, get a protective skin and put it over top.
Thoughts?
Erusman removed the back of his Prime and then installed antennae that go through the back in order to improve WiFi and GPS performance. However most people haven't found any value with the idea of cutting up the back of their Prime since there is no guarantee that WiFi will improve by a significant amount, however it is 100% guaranteed that cutting a hole in the back of the Prime will void your warranty.
There are plenty of Prime's out there that have pretty good WiFi performance. My Prime's WiFi is nearly as good as my Windows laptop and more than good enough for everything I would ever need to do on my tablet.
If your WiFi isn't working well enough to meet your needs, return or exchange your Prime for one that is working better.
I've had 2 prime side to side and one gets better speed than the other connected to the same router and test ran separately. So IMO there's either faulty hardware or bad connection. Have you tried getting an exchange?
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
Cutting little holes will not help. A metal mesh or grid reflects radio waves as effectively as solid metal plate - this is even used in some radio telescopes. In order for the radio waves to come through you would have to cut a hole with size comparable to the length of the EM wave. WiFi wavelength is about 12 cm...
At last some real info in a sea of misinformation.
The only thing which will fix this and the gps issue is a good window with a non-conductive cover, or maybe a plug-in or screw-in antenna.
I am sure, though, that some of the preproduction models had some hardware issues relating to antennas, as well as the oft quoted "metal back" issue.
I, too am finding the WiFi performance acceptable, and the sheer flexibility and neatness of the rest of the UK package (tab +dock) has made me a firm fan of the ATP.
Shame about the GPS, though, as there are many google and Android apps which work with phones and GPS which could translate productively to the Prime.
FG (confirmed fan)
Ok thanks for the insight everyone. I now believe my original concept wouldn't work.
I'm curious if there's has been any confirmation of an improved signal by simply removing the back. Someone had said it could be as much a hardware issue as it is the back design.
My wifi is acceptable, it's about the same as it is on my Nexus One which I'd feel bad complaining about. Though it's not as good as my Macbook.
I was just trying to brainstorm some possible solutions. Maybe I'll look into the antennea.
Felisek said:
Cutting little holes will not help. A metal mesh or grid reflects radio waves as effectively as solid metal plate - this is even used in some radio telescopes. In order for the radio waves to come through you would have to cut a hole with size comparable to the length of the EM wave. WiFi wavelength is about 12 cm...
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Click to collapse
So the plastic apple on the back of the ipad where the wifi is mounted is a gimmick? I find that a little hard to believe.
no, the apple cut out is big enough to let some RF through.
compact antennas and some serious amplification will do the rest. Look at the size of some of the antenna modules in other threads to see how small they are.
In fact look at how small the ipad antenna which is stuck behind the apple logo is.
the poster was right that a few small holes in a grounded plate would not let through enough juice to work.
That would amount to a Farady cage, which is used to screen RF signals, not let them through.
FG
So I recently discovered that the Rezound (and other phones) receive signal through the battery door. I did not previously know this. I was wondering if anyone had any information on how this works. The reason I want to know is because I am in a VERY low service area, and if I stand in certain areas or at a certain angle in my house, I can get service enough to make calls and send texts, but just the slightest move can ruin it. I know all about the Network Extenders and Boosters and all the external hardware you can obtain to help this problem, but I was thinking of a more direct way that one might possibly increase their signal.
What I was thinking is that old cell phones have antennas, right? So if the Rezound (and other smartphones) use a similar or at least some kind of antenna system (such as through the door of the phone) then maybe one could use a wire and rig it to attach to the door to increase signal.
I wanted to try poking a hole big enough to fit a small wire through the top of the door, but small enough to not be noticed, and then try and attach the wire to one of the pieces of the door that grabs the signal. I want to be able to remove it if I want to, but I would figure out how to do that part on my own.
I basically just want to know what part of the door is giving my phone its signal. I see that the door has what look like metal plates on it and I am guessing those have something to do with it.
Can someone give me a little more info on how this works so I can try to figure something out for myself?
Thanks a ton!
Btw I realize doing something like this (even if it worked) will increase the signal very insignificantly, but I figure that it might be kind of fun to at least try and see what happens.
TyWillems19 said:
So I recently discovered that the Rezound (and other phones) receive signal through the battery door. I did not previously know this. I was wondering if anyone had any information on how this works. The reason I want to know is because I am in a VERY low service area, and if I stand in certain areas or at a certain angle in my house, I can get service enough to make calls and send texts, but just the slightest move can ruin it. I know all about the Network Extenders and Boosters and all the external hardware you can obtain to help this problem, but I was thinking of a more direct way that one might possibly increase their signal.
What I was thinking is that old cell phones have antennas, right? So if the Rezound (and other smartphones) use a similar or at least some kind of antenna system (such as through the door of the phone) then maybe one could use a wire and rig it to attach to the door to increase signal.
I wanted to try poking a hole big enough to fit a small wire through the top of the door, but small enough to not be noticed, and then try and attach the wire to one of the pieces of the door that grabs the signal. I want to be able to remove it if I want to, but I would figure out how to do that part on my own.
I basically just want to know what part of the door is giving my phone its signal. I see that the door has what look like metal plates on it and I am guessing those have something to do with it.
Can someone give me a little more info on how this works so I can try to figure something out for myself?
Thanks a ton!
Btw I realize doing something like this (even if it worked) will increase the signal very insignificantly, but I figure that it might be kind of fun to at least try and see what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Antennas are very complicated....a wire really wont help you....if you can pick some up id get paint with a hight metal content of gold or copper...prefferably gold...and go over where the copper paint already is...thats the antenna and a slight elongation of the paints design can cause alot of issues....ive tried aluminum tape and it really didnt do much justice in signal...i tried gold content paint as i had some laying around and had great sucess....although the cost would be just as much as building your own signal booster antenna....which i can dig up the guides for you on that as well
REV3NT3CH said:
Antennas are very complicated....a wire really wont help you....if you can pick some up id get paint with a hight metal content of gold or copper...prefferably gold...and go over where the copper paint already is...thats the antenna and a slight elongation of the paints design can cause alot of issues....ive tried aluminum tape and it really didnt do much justice in signal...i tried gold content paint as i had some laying around and had great sucess....although the cost would be just as much as building your own signal booster antenna....which i can dig up the guides for you on that as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey thank you for the reply!
I would love the guides to making a booster. That will probably help me out.
Do you think if I got a copper wire, like the copper side of a speaker wire, I could strip it and close the door down onto it with the top sticking out? I mean, like I said before, I don't think the signal would be increased drastically at all, but could this help?
The gold paint you mean, is there an alternative or a cheap method of doing something like that besides what you had mentioned?
Thanks again.
TyWillems19 said:
Hey thank you for the reply!
I would love the guides to making a booster. That will probably help me out.
Do you think if I got a copper wire, like the copper side of a speaker wire, I could strip it and close the door down onto it with the top sticking out? I mean, like I said before, I don't think the signal would be increased drastically at all, but could this help?
The gold paint you mean, is there an alternative or a cheap method of doing something like that besides what you had mentioned?
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no....they have to match the antenna design thats already there....like i said you can use a better copper paint which is cheaper than gold but gold is much better because of how well it can conduct...sticking a wire in it will proobably give you even worse signal than what you have...the signal booster will still run you a little bit of cash and requires a little bit of knowledge to do so...guides can only go so far sometimes...and unlike old school fliphones or old brick phones with antennas the ones is this phone are designed and programmed a very certain way and is complex...hence why your best bet would be a signal booster...let me google around for the right guide and ill get back to you
REV3NT3CH said:
no....they have to match the antenna design thats already there....like i said you can use a better copper paint which is cheaper than gold but gold is much better because of how well it can conduct...sticking a wire in it will proobably give you even worse signal than what you have...the signal booster will still run you a little bit of cash and requires a little bit of knowledge to do so...guides can only go so far sometimes...and unlike old school fliphones or old brick phones with antennas the ones is this phone are designed and programmed a very certain way and is complex...hence why your best bet would be a signal booster...let me google around for the right guide and ill get back to you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About how much would the booster cost, and it'd work with other phones in the house too? Service is spotty in our house too for some of the phones.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
jagrave said:
About how much would the booster cost, and it'd work with other phones in the house too? Service is spotty in our house too for some of the phones.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can buy one outright for around $150 or make one for about $50 to $75....also depends on if you want one band repeated or up to 3 bands...rezound on verizon only uses 2 though....and yes it will work for any phone that uses that band and or carrier...the cheaper alternative is the paint...which runs about $30 for the gold or $15 to $20 for the copper
Heck, I would really love a signal booster. I usually have one bar of signal, and I can't ever call or text out here
Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk
tmanschuette said:
Heck, I would really love a signal booster. I usually have one bar of signal, and I can't ever call or text out here
Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk
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when i lived in the woodland areas of massachussets i had to try whatever i could for better signal...im looking for a good thorough guide on building one but not having much luck....may just write my own as i know how and whats needed
Right? I have to drive to the end of the street to make a call. We live in a valley in the middle of Nm, so the mountains don't help.
Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk
So is this aero cooling fan really works? Or just another gimmick? Anyone can confirm that the temp is much better with the fan Acc on? Thanks
theoryzz said:
So is this aero cooling fan really works? Or just another gimmick? Anyone can confirm that the temp is much better with the fan Acc on? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have the phone yet, but all the reviews have said it does make a difference in long term performance. I think it's supposed to keep things about 5°C cooler and reduces/eliminates thermal throttling. Doesn't sound gimmicky to me.
In the reviews that I have seen, that showed the backside of the cooling fan, it doesn't look like there is actually any ports that directly interface with the unit itself. But rather, from what I have read, it keeps your hands cooler and not as sweaty. So, maybe that is where the 5 degree difference comes in. If your hands are cooler and not transferring heat to the unit, then that would make sense why it would help keep it cooler by 5 degrees.
ZeroKool76 said:
In the reviews that I have seen, that showed the backside of the cooling fan, it doesn't look like there is actually any ports that directly interface with the unit itself. But rather, from what I have read, it keeps your hands cooler and not as sweaty. So, maybe that is where the 5 degree difference comes in. If your hands are cooler and not transferring heat to the unit, then that would make sense why it would help keep it cooler by 5 degrees.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it's the surface temp that goes down 5°C, not internal. I haven't seen any tests on internal temps, but several reviews have shown a definite increase in the amount of time before thermal throttling kicked in, and not at all in some cases.
ZeroKool76 said:
In the reviews that I have seen, that showed the backside of the cooling fan, it doesn't look like there is actually any ports that directly interface with the unit itself. But rather, from what I have read, it keeps your hands cooler and not as sweaty. So, maybe that is where the 5 degree difference comes in. If your hands are cooler and not transferring heat to the unit, then that would make sense why it would help keep it cooler by 5 degrees.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mr_Mooncatt said:
Yeah, it's the surface temp that goes down 5°C, not internal. I haven't seen any tests on internal temps, but several reviews have shown a definite increase in the amount of time before thermal throttling kicked in, and not at all in some cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read somewhere the tested temp drop with the cooling fan was something like 5C to 10C on the back of the phone and 2C to 4C internal temp drop.
Allright thanks a lot guys. Maybe I'll be getting the Acc after all.
This Active cooling fan doesn't drain much battery, it's like you don't have it at all.
It's surprisingly lightweight, it doesn't make the phone heavier at all.
It comes with adhesive hard-rubber cushions you can put under it, to make the phone stand alone, just like having a pair of shoes on its feet.
The writing "Republic of gamers" on is is also RGB-backlighted, and it's really bright!
The cooling stand extends itself for half centimeter, so you can attach it easily on the phone.
And it does the job! Also, keeping your fingers refreshed, neither too much nor too little, so they won't sweat.
Above all, keeps the phone cooled enough. A must have accessory, for Asus ROG Phone 2!
I love the aero cooler, it works and cools your fingers at the same time.
cypherflowgamingnation said:
I love the aero cooler, it works and cools your fingers at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea my favorite thing is that it keeps your sweaty hands cool
Sent from my ASUS_I001DC using Tapatalk
Hello Android Radio friends,
I have thought a lot about how to solve the problem of overheating Android devices with PX5 and PX6 processors. Next summer will come for sure.
My specially designed passive heat sinks are probably known by some people.
This time, I'm going to focus on active cooling + heatsink.
It was important that as many people as possible can use this method. It should be as easy as possible to install, even by people who have no manual skills.
Therefore I created 3D models of different top covers which you can easily print out if you have a 3D printer.
In this lid there are already the drillings for mounting a fan. I make the whole project available for the community on Thingiverse. I also add number 1 - 22 to each 3D model. If someone doesn't find the 3D model for his own top cover. Tell me the dimensions. I will create the 3d model. Let's make a collection of compatible devices.
Because high temperatures can occur in a car in summer, I used ABS as material. This can withstand temperatures up to 100°C.
Of course you could also drill a big hole in the top cover. But it does not look so nice. ?
If someone doesn't have a 3D printer. There are many different websites that offer 3D printing at low prices.
In the video I also show some used fans and some methods of power supply.
German video on YouTube
https://youtu.be/U36MYCj7FfY
English video on Youtube
https://youtu.be/U36MYCj7FfY
The whole project on Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240690
What do you think of this project?
Alex
Update 10.07.2020
Meanwhile there are 22 different 3D models.
Nice ideas.
Had some thoughts about that first minute I unpacked radio upgrade for my car, PX6 unit. It has some perforations on the back but it is all closed underneath with plastic so I think almost no air circulation happens there. Yeah it is 2DIN with aluminium heatsink on the back, and yes in my car ventilation is right above it but - I don't like it. Maybe some holes could help.
I'm writing this because of an experience with completely different thing, had annoying fan noise on an instrument amplifier, which was at 100% all the time. No matter how it was used or maybe unused at the time, noise was unbearable. Manual control is too dangerous because I know sooner or later I would forget to turn it up when needed, but it can be automatic so quick and nice fix was temperature control board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886053224.html . I think it could work nice for projects like yours :good:
Is the fan mod really useful?
Does anyone else use a fan in his HU?
iMattmax said:
Is the fan mod really useful?
Does anyone else use a fan in his HU?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
simply useless. If you switch stock thermal pad with a better quality one and install a good heatsink all is done. I did it one year ago and nothing more is necessary.
Consider that PX5 is a 5W SoC so a passive cooling is more than sufficient to remove heat
giouncino said:
simply useless. If you switch stock thermal pad with a better quality one and install a good heatsink all is done. I did it one year ago and nothing more is necessary.
Consider that PX5 is a 5W SoC so a passive cooling is more than sufficient to remove heat
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely not useless. Did you see the temperatures in combination with a heatsink?
A fan in the top cover cooling down the whole device.
Ati_gangster said:
Definitely not useless. Did you see the temperatures in combination with a heatsink?
A fan in the top cover cooling down the whole device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I performed a torture test and SoC temperature during this test was between 70-80°C (never reached during normal use). So as I stated before: a 5W SoC can easily be cooled passively. If you want to increase noise, failure probability of the fan and dust inside the radio, you can but it's not necessary at all. I have experience in cooling CPUs (also with massive overclock) for decades, this is not my first experience.
Moreover my radio is working passively since last year and I've nevere experienced stuttering or problems due to heat.
Other parts of the radio are not hot at all.
Awesome job Alex, and great video. Comprehensive tests too. Thanks so much for your hard work
giouncino said:
Yes, I performed a torture test and SoC temperature during this test was between 70-80°C (never reached during normal use). So as I stated before: a 5W SoC can easily be cooled passively. If you want to increase noise, failure probability of the fan and dust inside the radio, you can but it's not necessary at all. I have experience in cooling CPUs (also with massive overclock) for decades, this is not my first experience.
Moreover my radio is working passively since last year and I've nevere experienced stuttering or problems due to heat.
Other parts of the radio are not hot at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
70 to 80°C under which conditions?
What outside temperature?
Device 1Din or 2Din?
Cover open or closed?
Air conditioning on?
The advantage of active cooling is that not only the CPU is cooled, but also all other components such as voltage regulators, capacitors, amplifier chip and other microchips.
And if the 5€ fan should break after years, it's still better than if a 300€+ device breaks down.
Ati_gangster said:
70 to 80°C under which conditions?
What outside temperature?
Device 1Din or 2Din?
Cover open or closed?
Air conditioning on?
The advantage of active cooling is that not only the CPU is cooled, but also all other components such as voltage regulators, capacitors, amplifier chip and other microchips.
And if the 5€ fan should break after years, it's still better than if a 300€+ device breaks down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tested a lot with and without heat sink and fan, same as you did.
By the way... Thanks a lot for providing the 3-D-images to print the top cover. :highfive:
I printed the top cover for my head units to be used with a 80mm "be quiet" fan, which is really not audible if the unit is mounted in the dash board. Even on bench test the fan is really quiet.
The CPU temperature of all my 2-DIN units got down from (in Throttling Test) ~95°C down to max 48°C. Throttling was a real an issue. Up to 55% throttling without cooling down.
With normal usage (navigation with active route guidance, some Tasker tasks in background working, audio decoding active) the CPU is cooled down from nearly 80°C to ~30°C at ~25°C outside temperature, which is much more comfortable for all the parts in the unit and resolved the throttling issues to less than 5-10%, dependent of the unit.
Tested on:
PX5 (RK3368)
CSN2 (RK3368) ...which was delivered with a complete closed top cover. I got temperatures without any running apps of something about 85°C, because no ventilation was possible.
RL7A (RK3399)
SC9853i
Guys I’m in search for heatsink that fits my 1din PX6 unit. Do you have the measurements for the module size I need to cover with the heatsink?
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I added this to mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYK3J41/ref=dp_prsubs_1
the temps on my px5 swap were 90c which is way too hot for my liking, with this it never went above 60c and you cant hear any noise.
Hi, great job. Congratulations. Anyway, where to buy Alex's android fan kit from?
Geox70 said:
Hi, great job. Congratulations. Anyway, where to buy Alex's android fan kit from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Directly from him. Search for his channel on YouTube, there is somewhere his WhatsApp number written. Just contact him over there and ask for fan kit.
Don't know if this is the right location to post this but I just purchased a Vanku px6 4/64 and had every intention of at least putting a heat sink on it and I was pleasantly surprised to find this.. and it was even secured with screws. Win win View attachment 5114453
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
View attachment 5114487
Sorry don't know why the picture isn't showing. It is a pretty robust heat sink.
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My solution is a low-noise 12v fan stuck on top of the heatsink with strong double-sided mounting tape. Works like a charm.
Attached is the picture I was trying to show earlier. This is the stock heatsink in the Vanku
Edit:
Sorry, I give up. I can't get the pic to show.
I simply put an old intel mobo southbridge chip heatsink on a px6, some of them are very large
It has very long fins (over 1 1/4 ") by chance i could mod it to put longer screws to hold the px6 in place with the added heat sink
Fully passive, never had any problems
I simply run my PX6 with no lid. Makes zero difference to induce RF noise etc and my temps are cut in half for free.
Kudos to Alex (Ati_gangster)!
Simply sent the width of the original cover and the position of the two side holes and the size of the favorite fan (not included in the scope of delivery) via WhatsApp and two days later I had my cover in the mailbox. The fit is great and my fan fits perfectly into the existing holes.
My fan:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08WHMP2CD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6X7857YXKXYD8QC9SYDB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(trial assembly, still without fan)