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Hey all, I was looking into getting a car power adapter for hte G-Tab. I looked on Electroniccrap.com, but everything is usually "out of stock." He sells the iGo systems, which Radio Shack also sells. So, I went to my local RS to see what I could find. They didn't have the iGo stuff, but did have enercell converters/adapters, etc.
As I was browsing, I found 2 12VDC car chargers (if you were curious, the "B" plug fits in the G-Tab). But then I noticed a "150W power inverter." It's a car plug that has 3 AC outlets and 1 USB outlet on it. This is ideal for me becuase I usually charge more than one thing when on long trips, GPS, Zune, NDSi, DVD player, and now the G-Tablet. The issue I'm having is that the back of the package said that it's output was 5VDC, typical of most car adapters. I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true? The charger device does have a fuse on it, and some reviews I read (after purchasing, I know) said that it's worked fine for laptops, DVD players, etc. The main complaint is the hum of the cooling fan that's built in.
I briefly tested it today, with my G-Tablet. The battery indicator said it was 100% charged (but we all know that isn't reliable) I didn't take it out of it's case ot see what color the charge light was, but the charge indicator idn't have the lightning bolt in it, indicating a charge.
Does anyone know if she was telling the truth, perhaps? It's a pretty sweet setup, being able ot use AC adapters for all of my devices in the car, if it works as advertised, anyway. I just couldn't imagine why they would create a charger that has 3 5VDC AC outlets on it...
TJEvans said:
I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true?
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of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
The 5VDC on the package is most probably the output of the USB port on the inverter.
The inverter should output 110 (or 220v) AC @ 50/60 hz, else you wont be able to use your wall plug adapters.
True the GTab adapter will output the proper voltage (12v DC 2A), but its input must be 110v (220v) AC.
My advice is not to use inverters for small hand helds : GTab, GPS, MP3 players .. etc.
Instead, use compatible car adapters, if you need more than one, get a splitter for your socket.
By the way, here is a compatible (and cheap) car adapter for the GTab: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Car-Charger-Koda...ccessories&hash=item51998a1f04#ht_1399wt_1341
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
aasoror said:
of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
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Thanks for the tip - bought one!
FWIW, I'm pretty sure the 'girl in the shop' was simply saying that if you plug your 115/220VAC adapter into the inverter, the adapter will produce whatever it produces when plugged into a wall receptacle, which indeed it should so long as the inverter can produce 24W - and she was just following standard retail practice: 'sell what ya got', and the store *had* an inverter.
Seems like an overly complex way to get 12VDC out of a (nominally) 12VDC system when all you probably need is a regulator.
Another option:
http://www.amazon.com/charger-adapt...OQLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307712365&sr=8-1
Only one review, but it's a positive one.
TJEvans said:
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
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When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
5V won't work. The power management chip is designed to handle 9 to 18V, but any car charger that is 12V out and fits will be fine.
Go to Radio Shack and buy the coiled Universal Accessory Charger. Its regulated 12V dc @ 2Mah.
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
Sent from my G Harmony v2.4 using XDA Premium App
Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
An inverter may be a good choice for occasional use but probably better to keep everthing DC otherwise.
Make sure the inverter shuts itself off if the cars vehicle voltage gets low(i.e.when it isn't running). You could end up with a dead battery or even a damaged one.
rbrainard said:
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
Kind of nitpicking but cars are not grounded. Ground is literally the electrical potential of the Earth. A bad connection on the power or common(chassis) can cause noise but a sqeal is unlikely. The squeal is almost definately the inverter.
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h3llphyre said:
When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
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It's an earlier XB (2006) and only has the one outlet. When the car is in park, the shifter handle is literally about 5 inches away from the outlet. Having the double outlet plugged in, and angled up (adjustable) will allow some room, but then you are unable to grab the shifter.
I'll be driving to DC next Thursday, and wanted a way to power the GPS, G-Tab, e-cig battery charger, and whatever else my son decides to bring with us (NDSi, DVD player, his iPod touch, etc.)
To JJJustmee: The device does shut off when the car is off, so I'm good there. Also, the inverter itself has a fuse on it, so I assume that if overloaded, then the fuse will give on it, before it effects anything on the car. I don't necessarily plan on running all devices at the same time, more like, run the G-Tablet unplugged until the battery decides to start draining really low. The GPS will be running the entire time. Everything else may be charged for a bit, while other devices are no plugged in. I liked the design of this, becuase the car lighter plug is rather short, since there is a 3 foot wire leading to the AC/USB outlets, like a surge protector. It takes up very little room near the car outlet area. The other options that people posted will not work becuase of the space limitations. I could, and have (in the element) use the outlet splitter, then one double USB outlet, to be able ot handle 3 devices at once, but then we're talking about at least 7-8 inches of plastic pluggs sticking out, and into my shift lever...
JJJustMee said:
Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
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What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
baenap said:
What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
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Said it for me.
If it turns off as soon as you turn the key off it means the outlet is switched. Will protect the battery but also means it can't be used for anythihng while the car is off. Good or bad depending on usage. What I was talking about is the device being able to shut off when battery voltage goes below, say, 11.6v. Fuse and circuit breakers only protect from too high of an amperage draw. If your system wasn't switched it could still dran the battery. Like if the inverter was left on overnight/weekend.
Sounds like what you're talking about could be ok for a trip. Use the USB as much as possible. Lots more effeceint than the inverter. If you actually mean fuse, get extra. If it's a circuit breaker you'll be good to see what does and doesn't work.
Found one on ebay
Found one here
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320690673489#ht_4544wt_937
Just ordered it about $12:00 US delivered. I will let you know how it goeswhen I get in about two weeks.
Igo told me a week ago, that they don't yet have a tip for the Gtab/Zpad but expect to do so by the end of the month
Spec
Here you are some pics of Malata official Car adapter. Maybe you can find some thing to help.
Car charger
Just ordered this from Amazon. (can't link yet - crap) so "30W DC/DC Regulated Adaptor for DVD" do your own search
13.34 shipped. Many more bucks directly from batteryspace
Will post again after I test it.
more info: it comes with two tips, neither of which fit the gtab. I had a proper size tip in our tool box so will check voltages tomorrow.
This has better 12V DC regulation than the oem ac charger.
Guys
YOU DO NOT NEED AN INVERTER TO CHARGE YOUR G_TAB IN THE CAR.
ANY 12VDC (output) charger will work. They are a dime a dozen if you know where to look. Just make sure the tip fits, and is tip positive (symbol will look something like this)
12VDC @1A
(-)-C-(+) with a dot INSIDE the "C" that is connected to the (+)
The power supply controller will work down to 9V and up to 18, which is fine for the 10 to 14V you'll get from a car adapter. Just make sure it isn't a step down.
They should be like $5. You might have to bust out the soldering skills though if you can't find the right tip.
Hello there,
I bought Samsung's MHL to HDMI Adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MHL-HDMI-Adapter-Packaging/dp/B005LGUDKK/ref=pd_cp_cps_1) for my at&t SGS2, video and audio worked on my HDTV without hassle, but it did not actually charge phone's battery. when it was hooked up it kept 'rising bar' on battery icon in notification area and I was under impression it's truly charging as well playing the video on my TV, but it showed 30% batter warning that's when I realized it's not charging but faking to show charging!
Is is normal or abnormal, but I read in wiki or somewhere when it's hooked on MHL to HDMI Adapter/dongle SSGS2's designed to charge the battery as well, I need to your help to determine if I have a faulty one or I should turn on/off anything on phone!
Thanks in advance!
It will only charge your phone if the TV is a MHL compliant TV. I don't think any TVs on the market are compliant yet.
There should be a spot on the adapter to plug your charger into. That is the solution for non-compliant TVs. Did you plug your charger into the adapter?
Sent from my Galaxy S II (i777)
Thanks quarlow for quick reply. Yes I indeed plugged the charger into Adapter in order for it to work, that worked flawlessly, but the question is why the battery icon on my phone was showing 'charging bar' while it was not actually charging, that's mysterious.
My TV may be not MHL complaint as it's 2 yrs old already, but MHL complaint TV's don't need the MHL adapter be powered by external chargers, if I am right.
Thanks!
I too have an MHL adapter but it isn't the official "Samsung" one, but it will charge the phone overnight, but I've never left the device plugged into a tv and the adapter for an extended period of time.
I imagine that the adapter needs to draw power to send an image out to the TV, and the phone simply assumes that a charger is plugged in but rather than actually getting a charge the power is being diverted into the MHL adapter, and maybe a little bit is going to the phone but not enough to offset the drain of displaying an image on an HDTV.
I'll give it a test drive tonight and see if I get any different results, but I bet I have the same result.
TXFLGO05 said:
I too have an MHL adapter but it isn't the official "Samsung" one, but it will charge the phone overnight, but I've never left the device plugged into a tv and the adapter for an extended period of time.
I imagine that the adapter needs to draw power to send an image out to the TV, and the phone simply assumes that a charger is plugged in but rather than actually getting a charge the power is being diverted into the MHL adapter, and maybe a little bit is going to the phone but not enough to offset the drain of displaying an image on an HDTV.
I'll give it a test drive tonight and see if I get any different results, but I bet I have the same result.
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Much appreciated !
From what I can tell the stock charger is only 700MA and will charge the phone slowly when not in use, however if it is inuse I am sure it will only be able to keep up with the power used.
I use an HTC charger most of the time it is a 1000MA charger and seems to be a bit faster. I have not tried this with the MHL connector tho.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk
xisruno said:
From what I can tell the stock charger is only 700MA and will charge the phone slowly when not in use, however if it is inuse I am sure it will only be able to keep up with the power used.
I use an HTC charger most of the time it is a 1000MA charger and seems to be a bit faster. I have not tried this with the MHL connector tho.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk
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I believe this is your answer as well. I did not have the opportunity to test drive the MHL adapter last night, but what I would suggest is turning off whatever you aren't using while streaming. Check out the link below, and the last review for a similar problem from another MHL adapter, although MHL allows charging I imagine if you read the spec on it (the tech spec), it probably only supports 500 mAh max. Although it costs $100 to read the draft spec (which is stupid).
I will find out if I experience the same drain as well but I imagine what is happening is the Wifi/Data connection is draining faster than the charge is going into the battery, which is probably why standard use doesn't cause a problem. However streaming coupled with whatever else is going on is probably the culprit. So I'd suggest if you are going to stream anything while connected to disable non essential services (Sync, other data connections, bluetooth) and clear RAM so only what you want is actually running.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p..._id=1083314&p_id=8675&seq=1&format=4#feedback
TXFLGO05 said:
I believe this is your answer as well. I did not have the opportunity to test drive the MHL adapter last night, but what I would suggest is turning off whatever you aren't using while streaming. Check out the link below, and the last review for a similar problem from another MHL adapter, although MHL allows charging I imagine if you read the spec on it (the tech spec), it probably only supports 500 mAh max. Although it costs $100 to read the draft spec (which is stupid).
I will find out if I experience the same drain as well but I imagine what is happening is the Wifi/Data connection is draining faster than the charge is going into the battery, which is probably why standard use doesn't cause a problem. However streaming coupled with whatever else is going on is probably the culprit. So I'd suggest if you are going to stream anything while connected to disable non essential services (Sync, other data connections, bluetooth) and clear RAM so only what you want is actually running.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p..._id=1083314&p_id=8675&seq=1&format=4#feedback
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Click to collapse
So you mean if phone is hooked up with MHL adapter while it's not actually streaming , the battery percentage should go up (meaning charging) like 8% ->to 9% -> 10% ? I can try this.
I know the MHL adapter will charge your phone if you aren't streaming, I had mine plugged in sent text message, watched a video clip I shot, looked through pictures, and left it plugged in. I also used to charge my phone via the MHL adapter (charger into MHL into phone) regularly but the charger kept popping out of my adapter if I checked my phone.
I'll look into it more this weekend and get back with you about it.
Can confirm this is indeed a problem. Would recommend under clocking the processor
Until it's unbearable and try again.
My processor is oc'd on demand but it drained it really fast. Probably a glitch in their version of GB.
Sorry I don't have better news!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using XDA App
Thanks Guys!
I did kinda experiment, MHL adapter is indeed charging the battery while streaming, but battery drains faster than being charged, this is the outcome.
1. I plugged the phone while it's not streaming ..battery percentage increased from 78 ->79->80% and so on.
2. I took the phone off the MHL adapter and played the same video (flash based) it drained 10% of battery in 20 minutes.
3. I hooked the MHL adapter/charger and streamed the same video (flash based) it drained 5% of battery in 20 minutes.
I would like to conclude, MHL adapter charged the battery, but flash based video streaming drained the battery faster than the rate in which the battery was being charged.
I first bought a monoprice MHL adapter when they became available at around $11. I was very happy with it, but started looking for another to throw in the car for when I visited my girlfriend, or otherwise wanted to share video on the go. So I went on EBAY and bought a $6 cheapie adapter - that surprisingly worked at least as well. Later, I decided to buy a bluetooth joystick for gaming and bought a kit which included yet another MHL adapter, this one with an HDMI cable built in which made it convenient. This one cost roughly $12 in the kit.
You'd think I'd be done buying MHL adapters, but a thread which I now believe had false data - cited that the official Samsung MHL adapter output 60 FPS from the evo 3D. When I noted that all of my adapters output at 30 FPS - and the thread maker did not respond, I decided that it might be worth buying the Samsung Adapter as a test. To be sure - I bought the adapter directly from Amazon (not a vendor) at a premium price of $25.
I will note that to date I've seen no difference in Video Quality. I'll follow up this thread with a post reviewing video and gaming - but for now, all 4 adapters report 30 FPS from a stock EVO 3D, and I can see no difference in video quality. Where they do differ is in charge rate, and compatibility with the HTC dock - because some have bulkier micro USB plugs than the others.
One note - my original EVO 3D gradually lost HDMI output. Though presumably the output was digital, I got snow which varied by jiggling the port - and on some TV's I could get no output or strange colors and lines. I figured the port was shot and got a refurb insurance replacement - that fixed the problem. Since then - I've tried to use the HTC dock wherever possible to prevent further damage to my USB port. The HTC dock works great - with push button HDMI output and costs $15 at Radio Shack. The drawback is that you can use NO cases.
The following charging tests were done with Battery Monitor Widget. Having tested A LOT of battery monitors from the market - this is the only one that consistently works well. To set up this test - I connected each adapter to the dock (where possible) and only left wifi, phone and 4G on. All used the same USB charger (2.1A - though we max out at 1) and since a portion of the charge goes to the adapter, I wanted to see how much actually went to charge the phone. I didn't actively run programs - I stayed on Battery Monitor Widget's screen and monitored charge rates for about a half hour each. I can tell you that charge rates playing videos have been pretty consistent with the results - some MHL adapters drain the phone playing videos, others don't.
First - the monoprice adapter ($11):
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10833&cs_id=1083314&p_id=8805&seq=1&format=2
This one works well - though it is NOT compatible with the HTC dock.
The best charge rate I got in a half hour: +179 MA
This result is better than on any of my previous tests, I'm a little surprised the result was so good for the monoprice. Using movies on my card through dice player - I believe I could play for at least 10 hours straight without running out of phone battery (stock). There's a little drain, though streaming would burn battery much faster.
Next - the EBAY adapter ($6):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-M...&otn=3&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7852517687946872680
It appears the price has gone up since I bought it - but this one works great and DOES fit the HTC dock perfectly well.
The Best Charge Rate was +209 MA
Which is great. I was first shocked to play movies on it - and see that my phone got fully charged.
Next - The Phonejoy Video Game adapter ($12.90):
http://www.phonejoy.us/shop/mhl-male-cable-microusb-to-hdmi/#tab-description
This one is a tight fit with the HTC dock, it makes me nervous to use it long term this way - because I think the dock port or the cable will fail.
However - it includes a full HDMI port (no cable needed) -and is designed such that the long micro USB cable puts little strain on your phone while gaming. It's a good design, but the only drawback is that at 3FT the cable is really too short to game on a big TV.
The best charge rate in a half hour: -9 MA
You read that right. It drains the phone while using it - I couldn't get it to charge for some reason. A definite negative.
Finally - the Samsung adapter ($25):
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MHL-H...UDKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334923643&sr=8-1
It fits the HTC dock. It's certainly the prettiest, it's smaller than the others, glossy and feels expensive. Which at double the price (at least) - it is. But who buys electronics for the looks? Not I.
The best charge rate in a half hour: 219 MA
So the Samsung did charge the best overall. But are the extra 10 MA worth paying $25 instead of my $6 eBAY special? I don't think so.
I'll try to be detailed with a post later in the weekend, but right now - I see no video output difference using the EVO 3D. If any of these adapters has 60FPS capability - it's not with a stock device. I've been playing 720P videos and 1080P videos at 30FPS using Diceplayer - and noticed no quality differences. I've tested 3D videos on almost all of them - and they work great on my passive 3D TV.
In short - right now, my $6 EBAY special is proving to be the best bang for the buck and unless I see better video quality in gaming or other content this weekend, the Amazon adapter is probably going back. It's possible that other adapters have lower quality - but the 4 above that I've personally tested seem to work equally well at video output, with the only differences being fit and charge rate.
Due to the lack of replies, I thought no one was interested in this thread, so I didn't return to it. I only just realized that some users thanked me for it.
I just spent about 3 hours going back and forth between the Samsung MHL adapter and the EBAY cheapie. I'd watch 2 minutes of 720P MKV on one, then repeat the process with the other adapter. I then played a level or portion of a level on Shadowgun and then switch cables.
The end result is that I still don't see a reason to pay extra for the Samsung adapter. Every time I thought I saw a defect with one cable, I'd swap cables and catch the same video defect or game artifact. I was watching 3 FT away from a 1080P 32" LED - and could spot no definite differences after a few hours of testing.
That's proof enough for me - though it's possible with another device that we might see a difference in these adapters, I see none with a stock EVO 3D. I'm going to be returning the Samsung MHL adapter to Amazon.
Thanks for the post! ...on another note, Maybe you should try a video player that utilizes hardware acceleration? Mx player?? Maybe the player is capping your fps? Just a guess
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Perhaps this has been asked before, but I've been looking at some cheapies on eBay. The ones that plug into the mhl port, have an HDMI adapter, and an additional adapter to plug your charger into. Will this charge the phone while it outputs to the TV? If not, what's the best solution to output and charge at the same time?
adeyo said:
Thanks for the post! ...on another note, Maybe you should try a video player that utilizes hardware acceleration? Mx player?? Maybe the player is capping your fps? Just a guess
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
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Umm, I'm already using Mx Player. But on our phones it's not as good as Diceplayer. My FPS is not being capped by the software, at all times - connected to my TV it reports 30FPS. That's whether you're on the main screen or actively playing a video.
bkertz said:
Perhaps this has been asked before, but I've been looking at some cheapies on eBay. The ones that plug into the mhl port, have an HDMI adapter, and an additional adapter to plug your charger into. Will this charge the phone while it outputs to the TV? If not, what's the best solution to output and charge at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it'll charge - but like I pointed out in my extensive review, not all adapters charge at the same rate. If you get an adapter that I didn't review - it'll be a matter of luck how fast it charges.
Also - if you're running intensive software, like streaming video - you may not charge at all, and may instead drain the device.
I'm using the stock Samsung MHL adapter, and I get a negative battery drain every time I output video via HDMI using MX Player... pretty disappointing. Using the stock power adapter. Have you been using an aftermarket power adapter that has a higher output to get the positive charge?
conradcbrown said:
I'm using the stock Samsung MHL adapter, and I get a negative battery drain every time I output video via HDMI using MX Player... pretty disappointing. Using the stock power adapter. Have you been using an aftermarket power adapter that has a higher output to get the positive charge?
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That's really odd. Even if I used a more powerful charger, our phones max out at charging with a 1A rate. In general, I can confirm that the stock charger would give you the same results as above.
The only way I can explain your poor charging, would be if you are streaming via WiFi, your phone is trying failed data connections repeatedly, or perhaps most likely - you bought a bootleg Samsung MHL adapter.
MHL User
Thank you for this info. I took your advice and bought two from Ebay for under $5 bucks each and no problems with playback or charging. Though i must confess I don't know how long it takes to completely charge the phone. The USB charger plus in the side of the adapter.
Just a fyi...
The length and quality of the cable between the charger and your phone will dramatically change the charge rate.
The longer the cable the less charge rate
The thinner the wires the less charge rate.
And as you can imagine a combination of length and crapy wire =
A lot of the cables on eBay are terrible as they are made as cheap as possible.
I have found that the coiled (spring looking) ones are almost always good as you can't make a decent 'coil' with crapy wire.
Hope this helps.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Just a question to those that tried: How is gaming with such a Cable? Can the Evo 3D handle games on the big screen, or is it a sluggish mess? Also, how well do them cables cope when you put the phone under the strain of gaming? It runs through my battery pretty quickly when playing Dead Trigger or the like (and pretty much doesn't charge with the charger connected); how well do them MHL-Cables do at keeping the phone running? 219mA in 30 minutes seems rather poor.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FS9XLS6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just got one of these, primarily for use with my Galaxy s4, but I tested it with the notepro 12.2 as well.
Works ok, but there are a few notes:
SD slot and USB slot are mutually exclusive; only one can be active at a time.
MHL will work at the same time the USB slot works. I tested with flash drives and a usb keyboard.
adapter doesn't seem to want to accept or pass on more than an amp. I have several chargers that I use, ranging from 500ma to 2.1a, and I initially thought that the problem with the USB/SD slot running at the same time was a matter of power. Turns out this isn't the case. The most I could get to pass through to the device was 700ma by suppliying 1000ma.
This does mean that you can power the device at the same time that you use the mhl output and the usb host, but with minimal amount of charging.
If you look at the adapter, you will see that the end that goes into the device is a micro-usb male adapter attached right to the bulky device. This is going to be a just for occasional usage only sort of thing, It is not very sturdy.
I suspected as much when I ordered it, but the other similar adapters with more sturdy configurations or pigtail cables plainly stated that they were mhl /or/ host mode not both at the same time.
I am on the lookout for a straight through 11-pin extension cable that will work. Any ideas?
I wish listed this thing as soon as I saw it!
I'm also looking for an 11 pin version of this same thing.
About the charging issue, if I were to run Netflix and charge at the same time, would it charge or just not drain as fast, also does the hdmi out handle audio?
Not exactly what I'm looking for but it's the closest thing I've seen yet!!!
I specifically tested running Netflix, July, and Dish anywhere access while outputting via HDMI. Depending on your charging rate from whatever cable youbare using for power, you should be OK, but probably it will charge a little slower. I have mine hooked up to a 1amp charger and it's registering +700ma pretty reliably. I've been using the phone as a thin client for the past few days outputting to HDMI and it's taken a charge OK.
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I just bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2ZS1B5/
It has HDMI, three USB 3 ports, Ethernet, and Power Delivery. At $40, it was the least expensive such item I could find. It appears to be well built. The housing is aluminum. The adapter is very small and slim.
The HDMI seemed to be a bit finicky with various HDMI cables, but once connected, screen mirroring and Dex worked fine on my TV. All three USB ports worked. I didn't test transfer speeds yet. Ethernet worked via DHCP upon plugging in a cable. No drivers were required for anything.
As for the Power Delivery, I also bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCFCRX6/
When using a good-quality USB-C to USB-C cable, the Anker supply charges the tablet at high speed. Using the USB-A to USB-C cable that came with the S4, both the Anker and the OEM charger charged at slow speed.
You don't need PD to use any of the ports, unless you plug something into the USB that takes a lot of current (like some hard drives).
The only port missing, for more versatility, is VGA. I looked at several adapters that included VGA, but both the size and price were significantly larger.
The attached USB-C cable is about 6 inches long, including the plug. There is enough length for the adapter to lay on the table in use. The adapter weighs very little, so the weight of the attached devices and cables are all that will hold it down.
I am pleased with both items that I purchased. The links I provided have no referrals. I bought these items with my own money, and get nothing by recommending them.
I haven't tried the adapter with my Note 9 yet, but see no reason it won't work just as well with the phone.
I just did a quick benchmark on the USB ports. Since I had previous results to compare against, I did the testing on my laptop.
Using Atto Benchmark and a Samsung 500 GB SSD in an external enclosure, I got maximum read/write speeds through the new hub of about 43 MB/s (344 Mb/s). The previous speeds with the SSD connected directly to the laptop were around 450 MB/S (3600 Mb/s). Quite a difference.
Although the hub presents a serious bottleneck, the obtained speeds are still not bad for USB 2. It's just not USB 3 speeds. For what I am likely to use this hub/adapter for, this shouldn't be much of an issue.
Hi! thanks for your suggestion. Did you find any better (although more expensive) product? A plus would be usb 3.0 and Dex hdmi support
There were several more expensive units listed on Amazon. I only purchased this one to try. This one does Dex over HDMI, as I mentioned.
This looks pretty slick! How does the ethernet connection work with the S4?
Does that charge work better than Samsung's? Because with my USB-C hub and Samsung charger the charge decreases with time.