Related
I have just been on the phone with an ASUS support Tech, and he has told me that one model of PSU has a known fault.
The model number is : 0B-LF.
Unfortunately my PSU is 0B-1LF, and as it does NOT have a known fault, it looks like I am going to be returning the whole tablet.
I had the option to return only the PSU, but if it turned out to be a tablet fault I would then be liable for any shipping costs for the second RMA.
As I have a few problems with case creek and speaker popping I will be returning the whole thing.
No Transformer for 7-10 days, and then all the hassle of reinstalling..
What a pain.
If you have the Charger with model number above,I Suggest you call ASUS asap.
You can get a cheaper call to the tech support by calling 01442202700 in the UK, and then requesting a transfer in the menus (saynoto0870.com ftw).
bbilko said:
I have just been on the phone with an ASUS support Tech, and he has told me that one model of PSU has a known fault
The model number is : 0B-LF
Unfortunately mine is 0B-1LF, so it looks like I am going to be returning the whole tablet.
As I have a few problems with case creek and speaker popping I will be doing this.
No Transformer for 7-10 days, and then all the hassle of reinstalling..
What a pain.
If you have the Charger with model number above,I Suggest you call ASUS asap.
You can get a cheaper call to the tech support by calling 01442202700 in the UK, and then requesting a transfer in the menus (saynoto0870.com ftw).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is OB-1LF, how is that the same as OB-LF and whats faulty about it? My TF isn't faulty, would they just replace the power supply
0B-LF has a KNOWN to asus fault and will probably just be swapped out (i have no confirmation of this)
0B-1LF dosen't have a known fault, so if you have no problem then no need to get it replaced.
jratzo said:
Mine is OB-1LF, how is that the same as OB-LF and whats faulty about it? My TF isn't faulty, would they just replace the power supply
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
Mine says 0B-1LF too, I bought my TF-101 yesterday brand new. I would suggest the OB-1LF is the new revision.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using XDA Premium App
where are people finding the number on the power plug..i can't see it.
never mind, i pulled out my magnifying glass....1LF
bbilko said:
0B-LF has a KNOWN to asus fault and will probably just be swapped out (i have no confirmation of this)
0B-1LF dosen't have a known fault, so if you have no problem then no need to get it replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I read what you said wrong I thought you were listing your model as equal to the faulty model, thanks for the info.
+1 on the confusing OP.
it seems like what you're saying is,
1) your tf has problems
2) a certain model# is know to asus to having problem
3) unforutately, you have a diff model #
4) therefore you gotta send yours back.
statements 1 and 4 doesn't seem to have anything to do with 2 and 3. it's quite confusing.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Perfectly clear and set out logically in first post. Don't see why people are having a hard time understanding it tbh. I would imagine that there aren't that many 0B-LF chargers circulating around. Usually anything to do with power adapter faults on a large-ish scale and it's an automatic recall required. The writing is ridiculously small on it though. Doesnt help that it has multiple languages on it either.
finalhit said:
+1 on the confusing OP.
it seems like what you're saying is,
1) your tf has problems
2) a certain model# is know to asus to having problem
3) unforutately, you have a diff model #
4) therefore you gotta send yours back.
statements 1 and 4 doesn't seem to have anything to do with 2 and 3. it's quite confusing.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apologies, I agree it wasn't 100% clear!
I say it is unfortunate that my charger isn't on the known fault list, because that means they won't just send me a new one, Instead I have to send back my entire TF so they can do the same fault finding I have already done.
I mainly opened this thread so that the faulty model number could be made public.
Fault Description Post?
Hi, can you briefly describe or point me to the post that talks about the PSU issue relating to the the faulty model discussed above? Thanks in advance.
AcidCool2K said:
Hi, can you briefly describe or point me to the post that talks about the PSU issue relating to the the faulty model discussed above? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Afraid not, I got the information from an ASUS tech when on the phone about my own faulty PSU.
There are several other threads on faulty PSU's, but no one was listing model numbers until now
Type of fault
So I guess what happened to your PSU was pretty much does not charge the tablet (battery level keep draining rather than increase) even though everything plugged in correctly?
Did it work previously and just suddenly when dead on the charging? Or this is first try of charging and not working?
Also, do you have dock unit and trying the PSU on it too? Just try to see if it was the dang PSU or the plug connector or the tablet connector itself.
AcidCool2K said:
So I guess what happened to your PSU was pretty much does not charge the tablet (battery level keep draining rather than increase) even though everything plugged in correctly?
Did it work previously and just suddenly when dead on the charging? Or this is first try of charging and not working?
Also, do you have dock unit and trying the PSU on it too? Just try to see if it was the dang PSU or the plug connector or the tablet connector itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is covered here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1079021
stuntdouble said:
Perfectly clear and set out logically in first post. Don't see why people are having a hard time understanding it tbh. I would imagine that there aren't that many 0B-LF chargers circulating around. Usually anything to do with power adapter faults on a large-ish scale and it's an automatic recall required. The writing is ridiculously small on it though. Doesnt help that it has multiple languages on it either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I disagree with your comment that the first post was perfectly clear and set out logically. It was very poorly punctuated, and if I read the first sentence literally, ending after the word tablet, I would conclude that he is returning the TF because of the OB-1LF. I was able to glean his actual meaning from his follow up posting.
bbilko would do future readers a favor if he could edit the original post, and clean it up, since that is the first thing they will read on the subject.
Agreed, if you read past the line breaks then you would come to the correct conclusion that I am returning the entire tablet.
I have however taken your point and amended the post to make things clearer.
I am afraid at the time I wrote it I was rather annoyed.
vicw said:
I disagree with your comment that the first post was perfectly clear and set out logically. It was very poorly punctuated, and if I read the first sentence literally, ending after the word tablet, I would conclude that he is returning the TF because of the OB-1LF. I was able to glean his actual meaning from his follow up posting.
bbilko would do future readers a favor if he could edit the original post, and clean it up, since that is the first thing they will read on the subject.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All right, it could have been clearer but it's not like it was cryptic.
He rang them >was told a certain model has a fault >he doesnt have that model >had to send whole lot back to be tested to make sure it wasnt anything else causing the problems, rather than just the charger on its own. =a logical progression.
Something that isnt logical is that I normally read threads backwards (newest posts first). Usually glean some handy info quicker that way. If everyone on these forums who started a post, added extra info from the rest of the thread (as time went on), to the original post, it would make things a lot easier to find/read up on, as you say for this post. But most the time it just doesnt happen unfortunately.
Anyways I'm still thankful he gave us some info, that no one else has reported on so far, in the first place.
stuntdouble said:
Something that isnt logical is that I normally read threads backwards (newest posts first). Usually glean some handy info quicker that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And I thought it was just me that did that! (On the larger threads).
My model number on my PSU is AD8-27M...does anyone else have something similar....or am I looking in the wrong place?
look the next line down, at the type.
the model number of mine is also AD827M
bbilko said:
look the next line down, at the type.
the model number of mine is also AD827M
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Mine is 0B-1LF, so I am guessing I am okay.
Hi,
I have a Galaxy S3 that does not switch on, or charge. Full disclosure; I bought it second hand in full cognisance of this fact*, but I really thought it was a software glitch or something I could fix with a hard reset. The reason for this is the guy I bought it from swears blind it's not water-damaged, which I've verified by checking the moisture sensors. So, I tried a hardware reset (volume up+power button+home button) but nothing. So, does anyone know what it could be other than water-damage**?
*Yes, I'm aware it was stupid. But it was really cheap, and I have very poor impulse control. I'm like a cat, you can't dangle something like that in front of me and not expect me to pounce on it ;p
**Screen appears to be in perfect condition.
Take the battery out and look at the model number....im worried your the victim of a chinese dud!
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Nope, it's got Samung logos and all that; it says the SSN is I9300GSMH, which as far as I'm aware is the real deal. I've also checked the IMEI, and it corresponds to a real SGS3. So what is wrong with it?
SillyQuestionTime said:
Nope, it's got Samung logos and all that; it says the SSN is I9300GSMH, which as far as I'm aware is the real deal. I've also checked the IMEI, and it corresponds to a real SGS3. So what is wrong with it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May seem silly, but have you tried another battery?
That is my next move. Ordered one, hasn't shown yet. Presuming it doesn't work, what are my other options?
SillyQuestionTime said:
That is my next move. Ordered one, hasn't shown yet. Presuming it doesn't work, what are my other options?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might try a usb JIG to force it into download mode
SillyQuestionTime said:
Nope, it's got Samung logos and all that; it says the SSN is I9300GSMH, which as far as I'm aware is the real deal. I've also checked the IMEI, and it corresponds to a real SGS3. So what is wrong with it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As previously discussed in another thread, the chinese fakes look the real deal, all branding, samsung logos, model numbers etc match up to actual s3 devices, but the hardware is fake 540x960 display, 512mb ram etc....seriously worth looking into buddy
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Impossible to tell unless it switches on though.
I've compared it to the (apparently) real S3 in this video, and while everything seems to match up with mine, one thing is the microSD card slot and SIM tray have weird blue windows in them, which looks a bit suspicious. Did anyone else's phone arrive with these? It looks like they're replacements.
I don't want to sound too depressing but some of us have had our phones completely die for no reason after a few months. Mine's currently at the service centre and others who have had theirs back say that the circuit board was replaced. Mine didn't get wet, or dropped, it just stopped working.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
That *is* mildly depressing but if it comes to that I suppose all I can do is return it or sell it on as spares, try to get the money back :/ (all while hoping it *is* genuine)
(The circuit boards are really expensive to replace, also.)
Update: (like anyone's interested, but anyway) got my USB jig today, plugged it in following the method on this forum, but nothing. Not really surprised tbh.
Going to try a new battery next, but seriously doubt it'll come back to life at this stage. Thanks for the suggestions and comments anyway, and if any users have anything not covered already, just post it below. Thnx
Thought I'd update this again to report the lack of success of a battery switch....again, not really surprising.
I also need to reiterate the point that mine arrived with what looks like a replacement SIM tray/sdcard slot rig, such as those you see on eBay. I'm not sure whether to take this as suspicious or...what, and am now just ready to give up entirely on the phone. Any advice before I do this would be welcome
Do you mean those translucent blue stickers on the sim and micro sd slots? My phone came back from the service centre with these too (which definitely weren't there when I took it in)
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
SillyQuestionTime said:
Hi,
I have a Galaxy S3 that does not switch on, or charge. Full disclosure; I bought it second hand in full cognisance of this fact*, but I really thought it was a software glitch or something I could fix with a hard reset. The reason for this is the guy I bought it from swears blind it's not water-damaged, which I've verified by checking the moisture sensors. So, I tried a hardware reset (volume up+power button+home button) but nothing. So, does anyone know what it could be other than water-damage**?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think your motherboard is fried.
Its happed a lot the last weeks.
Only thing you can do is go to a reparation serves center for a replacement.
Isadora said:
Do you mean those translucent blue stickers on the sim and micro sd slots? My phone came back from the service centre with these too (which definitely weren't there when I took it in)
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have bought a brand new unlock phone from a samsung store and have also the blue stickers.
It's normal.
Sometimes they are removed en sometimes thy leave them on.
hi guys while trying to change my charging port i damaged the single wire that connect from the charging port to the mother board (main board) can some one tell me or give me a link to where i can purchase another one. again it the only gray wire that connects from the charging port to the mother board. thanks
http://www.etradesupply.com/
Try these folks.....
I've used them for several parts ....and they are a fine company....
I was worried about buying overseas initially, but after a few purchases, no more anxiety....g
gregsarg said:
http://www.etradesupply.com/
Try these folks.....
I've used them for several parts ....and they are a fine company....
I was worried about buying overseas initially, but after a few purchases, no more anxiety....g
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i got all excited that they might have a mb for n7000. that stupid part is next to impossible to find LOL
JamieD81 said:
i got all excited that they might have a mb for n7000. that stupid part is next to impossible to find LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes .....the most guarded part on the planet it seems...LOL
Hello, I have problems with a u20i x10 mini pro.
I tried resetting with pccompanion, as well as flashing stock firmware (no error in flashtool log), but phone enters a sort of bootloop, without even arriving to SE logo. Only, display gets light, but nothing is displayed. Phone sometimes vibrates, when power button is pressed. No led light seen.
This is s1tool output:
Code:
18.01.2014 01:12:33 RUNNING S1_EROM VER "R8A027"
18.01.2014 01:12:33 SOFTWARE AID: 0001
18.01.2014 01:12:33 LOADER AID: 0001
18.01.2014 01:12:35 FLASH ID: "00EC/00BC"
18.01.2014 01:12:35 LOADER VERSION: "R4A045"
18.01.2014 01:12:35
18.01.2014 01:12:35 MODEL (from GDFS): U20i
18.01.2014 01:12:35 SOFTWARE VERSION: 1235-3411_2.0.A.0.504
18.01.2014 01:12:35 CUSTOM VERSION: 1238-0199_R3B
18.01.2014 01:12:35 FILESYSTEM VERSION: WORLD-1-8_2.0.A.0.504
18.01.2014 01:12:35 SERIAL NO: CB511KWV7E
18.01.2014 01:12:35
18.01.2014 01:12:35 SEMC SIMLOCK CERTIFICATE
18.01.2014 01:12:35 Elapsed:6 secs.
Is it possible to judge the state of the system from this log? Is it hard bricked, soft bricked or suffers some hardware damage?
Thanks
ostatit said:
Hello, I have problems with a u20i x10 mini pro.
I tried resetting with pccompanion, as well as flashing stock firmware (no error in flashtool log), but phone enters a sort of bootloop, without even arriving to SE logo. Only, display gets light, but nothing is displayed. Phone sometimes vibrates, when power button is pressed. No led light seen.
This is s1tool output:
...
Is it possible to judge the state of the system from this log? Is it hard bricked, soft bricked or suffers some hardware damage?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not hardbricked, in a hardbrick you don't get any responses from the phone. I think maybe your flex is broken, that's the ribbon cable that connects the screen to the rest of the phone. Other than that, i wouldn't know why it's not working properly.
SmG67 said:
It's not hardbricked, in a hardbrick you don't get any responses from the phone. I think maybe your flex is broken, that's the ribbon cable that connects the screen to the rest of the phone. Other than that, i wouldn't know why it's not working properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate, then I'm opening it tomorrow (I just don't have any tools with me right now).
Just another couple of questions before opening:
1) I would have expected the phone to turn on and without the display (and hence, be available via usb), instead of continuosly rebooting. Am I wrong?
2) does the ribbon cable brake, or sometimes just detach from the board?
thanks again (for the info as well as for the prompt answer)
ostatit said:
Thanks mate, then I'm opening it tomorrow (I just don't have any tools with me right now).
Just another couple of questions before opening:
1) I would have expected the phone to turn on and without the display (and hence, be available via usb), instead of continuosly rebooting. Am I wrong?
2) does the ribbon cable brake, or sometimes just detach from the board?
thanks again (for the info as well as for the prompt answer)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... as for nr.1, you do get a response from your phone in S1Tool, so that is ok, and if it was booted you would have to turn on usb-connection from the status-bar in order for it to connect as mass storage The screen not working prevents you from doing that. On the other hand, the drivers for the screen and the digitizer may give a fatal sort of error because they can't connect, resulting in the kernel stopping the boot. Both are sort of guesses on my part but may explain your problem.
As for nr. 2, It usually breaks It's the most common hardware failure on the U20.
SmG67 said:
Well... as for nr.1, you do get a response from your phone in S1Tool, so that is ok, and if it was booted you would have to turn on usb-connection from the status-bar in order for it to connect as mass storage The screen not working prevents you from doing that. On the other hand, the drivers for the screen and the digitizer may give a fatal sort of error because they can't connect, resulting in the kernel stopping the boot. Both are sort of guesses on my part but may explain your problem.
As for nr. 2, It usually breaks It's the most common hardware failure on the U20.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see... and, please correct me if I am wrong, a broken flex cable could explain the led off while charging and while flashing, right? but, isn't also the "back" key connected through the flex, in the end? just for my information, I don't mean to test your knowledge
another couple of questions:
3) do I need to disassmble both the lower (the one of the battery) and the upper (the "display" one ) parts, to check the flex, or can I just concentrate on the upper one?
4) I suppose there is no way to repair the flex, if is is broken....
thanks for the valuable information!
ostatit said:
I see... and, please correct me if I am wrong, a broken flex cable could explain the led off while charging and while flashing, right? but, isn't also the "back" key connected through the flex, in the end? just for my information, I don't mean to test your knowledge
another couple of questions:
3) do I need to disassmble both the lower (the one of the battery) and the upper (the "display" one ) parts, to check the flex, or can I just concentrate on the upper one?
4) I suppose there is no way to repair the flex, if is is broken....
thanks for the valuable information!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it would mean the led wouldn't get any power, but the flex is a parallel cable, with lots of wires connecting various parts, they may not all be broken, so you might still be able to use the keys, or with some people, half the screen sometimes.
As for the disassembly, there are tutorials and videos you can follow, just search them on google. And a new flex-cable is quite inexpensive, a few quid should buy you one.
SmG67 said:
Yes, it would mean the led wouldn't get any power, but the flex is a parallel cable, with lots of wires connecting various parts, they may not all be broken, so you might still be able to use the keys, or with some people, half the screen sometimes.
As for the disassembly, there are tutorials and videos you can follow, just search them on google. And a new flex-cable is quite inexpensive, a few quid should buy you one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
short (useless) update: I have not found a T6 torx yet....
ostatit said:
short (useless) update: I have not found a T6 torx yet....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
... it is definitely the ribbon. Half cut.
I'm considering buying a new one... but, before, another couple of questions
is the flex glued onto the metal plate? Do I have to destroy the old one? (and that would explain why all the video guides end without "disassembling" the flex do I need any special tool to attach the new one (assuming that I am really going to do the job )?
thanks!
ostatit said:
... it is definitely the ribbon. Half cut.
I'm considering buying a new one... but, before, another couple of questions
is the flex glued onto the metal plate? Do I have to destroy the old one? (and that would explain why all the video guides end without "disassembling" the flex do I need any special tool to attach the new one (assuming that I am really going to do the job )?
thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, I made it
I received the new ribbon and put it in operation
Actually, I need a couple of further suggestions:
1) how do I fix the ribbon in the right position? Do I need to glue it? When I open the keyboard, I have the feeling that it always "crashes" against the ribbon...
2) How do I solve the sim-lock?
Thanks
ostatit said:
Alright, I made it
I received the new ribbon and put it in operation
Actually, I need a couple of further suggestions:
1) how do I fix the ribbon in the right position? Do I need to glue it? When I open the keyboard, I have the feeling that it always "crashes" against the ribbon...
2) How do I solve the sim-lock?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if you need to glue it, maybe you could even use some tape to stick it, roughly in the same place where the old one was attached, if that was attached at all.
Secondly: What about the sim-lock? Do you mean it's locked to one particular provider, without accepting other sim-cards? Or do you mean the code you have to fill in before the phone is booted up?
SmG67 said:
I don't know if you need to glue it, maybe you could even use some tape to stick it, roughly in the same place where the old one was attached, if that was attached at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
alright, I will consider, thanks!
SmG67 said:
Secondly: What about the sim-lock? Do you mean it's locked to one particular provider, without accepting other sim-cards? Or do you mean the code you have to fill in before the phone is booted up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, it asks for a
"SIM network unlock PIN"...
ostatit said:
alright, I will consider, thanks!
well, it asks for a
"SIM network unlock PIN"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right... that is a sim-lock... either use a sim-card from the provider the phone is locked to, or ask that provider for an emma/imei code in order to unlock it. This is usually free after the initial contract period. The only other way is to use a paid service to unlock it.
SmG67 said:
Right... that is a sim-lock... either use a sim-card from the provider the phone is locked to, or ask that provider for an emma/imei code in order to unlock it. This is usually free after the initial contract period. The only other way is to use a paid service to unlock it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Verdammt, ok... Point is, I got the phone in a "flohmarkt", so I have really no idea of the provider.
Cheeky question: are the ones you mentioned the only possible solutions, or is it possible that there is some "grey zone" way to do the job, described around the internet, which I shall look for by myself?
ostatit said:
Verdammt, ok... Point is, I got the phone in a "flohmarkt", so I have really no idea of the provider.
Cheeky question: are the ones you mentioned the only possible solutions, or is it possible that there is some "grey zone" way to do the job, described around the internet, which I shall look for by myself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can be done over the internet, but everyone who offers that service will demand money for it. The only really free way ( and the safest way if you want to unlock the bootloader and play with custom kernels and roms ) is the code from the provider. There isn't some sort of logo or sticker inside that will identify the provider? Come to think of it, there should be a model-sticker inside with an SI number on it in the format of: 1238-2562 (that's my number, SE original Customised UK black ) One of those two numbers is usually a provider-code you can look up on the internet. I wish you good luck
(And flohmarkt is german for flee-market (usually american english), or car-bootsale (more commonly used in the UK)
SmG67 said:
It can be done over the internet, but everyone who offers that service will demand money for it. The only really free way ( and the safest way if you want to unlock the bootloader and play with custom kernels and roms ) is the code from the provider. There isn't some sort of logo or sticker inside that will identify the provider? Come to think of it, there should be a model-sticker inside with an SI number on it in the format of: 1238-2562 (that's my number, SE original Customised UK black ) One of those two numbers is usually a provider-code you can look up on the internet. I wish you good luck
(And flohmarkt is german for flee-market (usually american english), or car-bootsale (more commonly used in the UK)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well mate, again many thanks for all the pieces of valuable informations you provided... just found that my SI is 1238-8583, which is (googling not too far away from here ) Mobilkom A1 AT/Black. I am going to visit them ...
(ah, yeah, sure flohmarkt is german... I did not mean to hurt anybody with the germanism, I just thought it was used abroad too, like e.g. "doppelgaenger". Btw I am not german mother language )
ostatit said:
Well mate, again many thanks for all the pieces of valuable informations you provided... just found that my SI is 1238-8583, which is (googling not too far away from here ) Mobilkom A1 AT/Black. I am going to visit them ...
(ah, yeah, sure flohmarkt is german... I did not mean to hurt anybody with the germanism, I just thought it was used abroad too, like e.g. "doppelgaenger". Btw I am not german mother language )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
unbelievable... Here in Austria A1 demands 50 euros for unlocking a 2 years old mobile (with receipt), or 150 euros without receipt (indipendently from the age). this is unreasonable. Is this legal? Has anybody suggestions? Thanks
ostatit said:
unbelievable... Here in Austria A1 demands 50 euros for unlocking a 2 years old mobile (with receipt), or 150 euros without receipt (indipendently from the age). this is unreasonable. Is this legal? Has anybody suggestions? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no idea if that is legal, but since the Austrian government isn't reprimanding them I guess they are within the legal limits of doing so. The 'normal' thing to do though, is to do it for free after the initial contract period is over, since the phone is paid off by then, and there's really no need to keep it tied to your own network.
I can somewhat understand the difference between the receipt and non-receipt prices, they don't want to make it worth while for stolen phones to be used any longer. (Not that i'm saying your phone is stolen, but they can't know without the receipt).
I suggested doing it through them because it is usually free, but since you'll have to pay for it, You could try something like Omnius. They are a paid service, but they should be cheaper than the provider in this case.
SmG67 said:
The 'normal' thing to do though, is to do it for free after the initial contract period is over, since the phone is paid off by then, and there's really no need to keep it tied to your own network.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, that would have really made sense...
SmG67 said:
I suggested doing it through them because it is usually free,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually, it is like that in quite a lot of countries (after a couple of years): in a quick search I have read that also for Switzerland, Italy, ...
SmG67 said:
You could try something like Omnius. They are a paid service, but they should be cheaper than the provider in this case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, thanks again!
(Still, I think that 50 euros to let people use a 3-year old mobile phone is quite a nice present to phone makers...)
ostatit said:
(Still, I think that 50 euros to let people use a 3-year old mobile phone is quite a nice present to phone makers...)
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Not to the phone-makers, a nice present to themselves, making money of a phone that's already paid for, and the only thing they have to do in return is e-mail a code they've got stored in a database.
They are hoping you'll go for a new phone (and contract) which would make a nice present for them AND a phone-maker It's win-win for them, apart from the fact that you're now pissed off and will never go for them as a provider in your life
SmG67 said:
Not to the phone-makers, a nice present to themselves, making money of a phone that's already paid for, and the only thing they have to do in return is e-mail a code they've got stored in a database.
They are hoping you'll go for a new phone (and contract) which would make a nice present for them AND a phone-maker It's win-win for them, apart from the fact that you're now pissed off and will never go for them as a provider in your life
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very bad news from my small mobile phone
I had always had the feeling that I assemblied quite fast and not really well, so I decided to open it again and fix the ribbon with some glue... long story short, it does not work at all! No reaction at power on button, no reaction on linux (lsusb used to show a device, when the ribbon was broken), no reaction from s1tool... I fear I really broke something, this time... do you still have some suggestion for this case of "no response at all"? I actually don't think I ruined the ribbon with the glue (which was my first guess), but I don't know what to consider now...
I destroyed my lcd screen on a ntelos sch-r760, I tested switching my circuit board(not sure of the correct term) on a friends r760, powered up and looked exactly like mine(pin, icons, contacts, apps, texts) but I didnt try calling though, internet worked also. So, does that mean I can buy a used one even if the esn is bad, does it even matter which carrier as long as it's a r760 model? It seems the little circuit board that allows the sm card holds the brains of the phone? Thanks for any help/insight, let me know if you need more info.
As long as it's the same model it should be fine. Might take you a while to source a board though, very few people on here have this phone, I can't imagine spare parts would be as plentiful for, say, the I9100.
You could try looking on
parts4repair.com
You might get lucky......
Sent from my Markox/Gustavo_s powered KitKatted S2
As long as that little circuit board holds the brains, I'm thinking about finding a used r760 on ebay or cl, even if it has a bad meid/esn or different carrier, as long as it holds a charge and lcd works. Then just swap the circuit boards instead of repairing mine. MistahBungle, you're saying my thought process should work? Thanks again
'As long as it's the same model it should be fine' (don't make me post it in size 7 bold italic).
MistahBungle said:
'As long as it's the same model it should be fine' (don't make me post it in size 7 bold italic).
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