I have disassembled this mobile phone because I had a problem with the digitizer in one small area of the screen. I replaced the digitizer, but now I am not sure about how to connect the LCD… I should have taken pictures :-s.
Some pictures of the problem:
The connector is the zone with the red box, I do not remember if it goes on the grey plastic (it is not connected in this picture because it is difficult to keep it in).
Or under the grey plastic:
It is connected in this picture, but when I switch the phone on I can only hear the booting sound, no image on the screen…
Can any of you open your phone (just 4 screws) and take a picture of the LCD connector?? I cannot find any disassembly guide on the internet for this particular model…
Thank you very much in advance!
Regards!
PS: I cannot post pictures yet because I do not have enough messages on this forum... If you are interested I can send you this links in a pm...
EDIT: SOLVED!!
I finally solved it :victory:, the connector goes under the grey plastic
Regards
art24 said:
I have disassembled this mobile phone because I had a problem with the digitizer in one small area of the screen. I replaced the digitizer, but now I am not sure about how to connect the LCD… I should have taken pictures :-s.
Some pictures of the problem:
The connector is the zone with the red box, I do not remember if it goes on the grey plastic (it is not connected in this picture because it is difficult to keep it in).
Or under the grey plastic:
It is connected in this picture, but when I switch the phone on I can only hear the booting sound, no image on the screen…
Can any of you open your phone (just 4 screws) and take a picture of the LCD connector?? I cannot find any disassembly guide on the internet for this particular model…
Thank you very much in advance!
Regards!
PS: I cannot post pictures yet because I do not have enough messages on this forum... If you are interested I can send you this links in a pm...
EDIT: SOLVED!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Related
Hi cracks,
Just read somewhere in another thread that somebody was asking about the bad colors of WM6 and that it was much better under WM5.
But now it is even not possible with downgrading to WM5 to get the right settings back.
This is the same for me (S200 G4). All pictures and movies are looking bad just as you would have not enough colors anymore.
Any idea what it is or how to solve that?
Am I really the only one having this problem?
Is there perhaps a registry setting for adjusting that?
Thanks,
Boris
I would like to know the answer too
I also have the same problem. Anybody knows a solution?
My screen got fixed.
After resetting to WM5 I still had the problem. But after Hard resetting twice it's fixed. Boris03, Could you confirm this. I would like to upgrade again but not at the cost of busting my graphics, So I don't want to experiment again. Thanks
Problem back again
After a few minuts when I turned it on again, the problem was back. So I'm sorry for the wrong info, but it was fixed for a few miutes for sure.
are you guys talking about camera pictures & vidz ? if so, it's just that your device is overclocked while it shouldn't.... if not, describe your problem better so that someone can answer it... post screenshots... help yourself.
Screen shots
I am speaking of the windows screens actually. It is not noticable on all screens but ones with gradient shades show it and also where there are menu buttons. I took Lastnikita's advice and took screen shots.......... but on my PC the screens look perfect.
I'll try to explain what I see on my PPC. In terms of RGB, it looks like the blue has shifted from the rest of the colors a bit to the right. This is noticable in menu buttons where the left half looks pinkish while the blue overlaps the button boundary and sticks out the right. In gradient colors i.e. the contacts screen there is a blue column on the laft of the screen and a lot of pink around the middle. The effect looks like a low bitrate image. Maybe I can use a seperate camera to take a picture.
I have downgraded after using Touch X ROM and am now using 2.20.7.34 WWE ROM.
Thanks.
If you used a software screenshot, it would have taken an image of what was supposed to be shown. To me it sounds like a hardware fault rather than a driver related issue.
Yes. I just found this out and I was thinking the same thing. But the similarity of the problem looked strange. Maybe the problem is not the same either. Thanks.
Thanks for the advice. I just opened up my Neo and undid the ribon to the display then plugged the ribon back in. It's fixed. Thanks everybody.
Pretender9 said:
Thanks for the advice. I just opened up my Neo and undid the ribon to the display then plugged the ribon back in. It's fixed. Thanks everybody.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, very luckly, I have same problem. Can u guide in detail for me? What is the ribon? If have pics is better. Thanks!
I'd like to help. But are you willing to risk of opening up your PDA? I was desperate.
This will void your warranty.
I tried to write a description but it's too hard
The basic idea is to open up the back. 2 screws are visible under the battery cover the other two are under the Camera cover plate which is the only hard part to remove. It has catches on both sides near the bottom edges. If this is opened then you can see the other 2 screws. Once unscrewed you can take off the back panal. It also has some catches but they give in to a little pressure in the joining gap. I used my nails to liver it. The back has to be taken away carefully as the speaker is connected to this and you don't want to break the wire. Once this is open and you place the back cover beside the unit so the wire is not streached you can start working on the ribbon.
You'll see a copper ribbon just above the IR port connecting to the motherboard. It is locked with a clip. You can unlock the clip by ..................
I'm not sure you're interested anymore. . Let me know if you are.
It would be better with pictures or MSN maybe.
I don't know if this forum has a rule against giving out MSN IDs.
well, maybe I should bring my Neo to the store (still warranty more 6 months left ^-^). I only used PDA for more 1 month, so I don't know much about them. Concern to hardware maybe I can't do well as you ^-^.
Thank you very much for helping me!
I am from Vietnam, so my English is bad. I don't know the following is true or not? ^-^
God help you!
Bad colors since WM6
Hi all,
I cannot believe that this should be a cable problem. It was just since I was upgrading to WM6 and the downgrade is not solving the thing anymore.
It is just like you display a video or pictures with 16Mio Colors on a 16Color display. And before the same video and pictures looked brilliant.
On other thing is that e.g. the background pictures (theme) from Gullum are looking bad as well.
And also I can see the background colors flickering a little bit from time to time. Again this is since i upgraded the first time to WM6.
S200 G4, No overclocking.
Thanks,
Boris
The easy way to check out if its a cable problem is by taking screen shots. If they look good on the PC then chances are very high that it is a physical problem and just might be a cable problem. If they are the same on the PC as on the PPC then it obviously is not a similar problem to mine.
Thanks
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
please elaborate
speedman2202 said:
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello speedman and OP.
Speedman, can you please elaborate on your answer.
I am refering to this part of your answer ".... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... ".
The reason I am asking is that I had epiphany two days ago that didn't end well, but the journey was rewarding.
I was thinking, ok Kindle 3 (keyboard) has a better screen that nook ST (contrast). I really like my rooted nook. Both things are made in China, by same manufacturer.
I will make an uber device and fit a kindle 3 screen on nook. (I am not a technical person, but i do love my rooted nook, may he rest in peace).
I was really close, and was able to connect kindle screen to nook simple touch battery and motherboard. And it worked, it showed nook screen on my half opened kindle keyboard. Unfortunately, I got overzealous in attempt of removing screen from nook simple touch (bloody silicone), and screen broke. At this point all my confidence was gone. I reassembled kindle 3 fast, so at least i have one device safe.
So, my question is, if i actually try to do this again (30 gbp for nook st these days), will i have touch capabilities, that is: where is the bloody infrared, on the eink screen? haven't seen anything special there....
I was so happy when I sow OP question.....and than cold shower......
The infrared touch module is attached to the bezel of the Nook, has no connection to the e-ink screen. I think that the panels are identical as far as specs, not sure about the connections though. Any difference in contrast has to do with the software, not the panel itself.
OB
Sent from my Evo V 4G using Tapatalk 2
dkuku said:
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont do it - I have also ordered ED060SCE and the seller send me ED060SC7 - I put it in the device and it didn't work. I ordered later a second one and I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd - I ordered a second nook with broken lcd and in this unit the new lcd worked like charm
dkuku said:
I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
trurlo said:
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
dkuku said:
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
trurlo said:
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
dkuku said:
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
trurlo said:
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as I look close then I see they aren't connected to GND - I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
dkuku said:
I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, that helps a lot - while they might not be connected to GND, they seem to be organized in a simple 2x2 matrix - I can see a path connecting two outer rings in the upper part of the PCB - that would mean I can extend these 2 buttons easily with a 3-pin connector. That would be enough.
I will let you know if it works out.
The question of keyboard stuff is continued here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2434722
trurlo said:
I will let you know if it works out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the result. Thanks for your help. And thanks to Renate for confirmation of the pinouts.
I think maybe put a screen Kindle 3 in Nook. Datasheet are almost identical. Waveform is in firmware 1.2.1 for display...
I can confirm the e-ink screen for Kindle Keyboard can be put into Nook Simple Touch, working beautifully. Just be careful when taking NST apart, because the e-ink screen is VERY tightly glued to the back panel, using some kind of strong double sided tape. I ended up cracking it...
So my girlfriend dropped her s3 the other night , the screen stays off ( does not light up ) but the touch sensors still work, we can answer calls on it by knowing the approximate location of the answer button, any thoughts on what the issue is ? I would prefer to repair this at home rather than make her pay money through a shop, thanks in advance
Darknod66 said:
So my girlfriend dropped her s3 the other night , the screen stays off ( does not light up ) but the touch sensors still work, we can answer calls on it by knowing the approximate location of the answer button, any thoughts on what the issue is ? I would prefer to repair this at home rather than make her pay money through a shop, thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is easy to replace broken GLASS.
but i think you will need to replace screen.
If you purchase assembly of glass, digitizer and screen it will be very easy to replace by yourself.
quaker1985 said:
It is easy to replace broken GLASS.
but i think you will need to replace screen.
If you purchase assembly of glass, digitizer and screen it will be very easy to replace by yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The glass isnt broken, perfectly clean with no scratches cracks or nicks , it just wont light up;
i had the same problem once, had to be sent to samsung (or wherever) by the shop where i bought it
buying a display and metal frame (obviously you can't buy them seperatly) plus glass would have cost almost the same
i wanted to find out whether the screen still works and it's a problem with my motherboard or vice versa so i unscrewed all bolts to access where the screen is plugged in on the motherboard but i didn't have another s3 to do the same and check it :silly:
still don't know how amoled displays work so it might be possible that whatever's responsible for backlighting the display broke
w0rinal said:
i had the same problem once, had to be sent to samsung (or wherever) by the shop where i bought it
buying a display and metal frame (obviously you can't buy them seperatly) plus glass would have cost almost the same
i wanted to find out whether the screen still works and it's a problem with my motherboard or vice versa so i unscrewed all bolts to access where the screen is plugged in on the motherboard but i didn't have another s3 to do the same and check it :silly:
still don't know how amoled displays work so it might be possible that whatever's responsible for backlighting the display broke
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thought was that the backlight broke or maybe the entire display system is disconnected , I might just have to take it apart for an exploratory operation,
before it went completely black there was a purple stain which grew until two thirds of my display were purple, the lower part where it started was black.
then i managed to open this samsung hardware debugging menu where you can check for dead pixels by letting your display light up in red, green and blue. there i found out that only blue and green pixels very working correctly in the upper third. the next day every purple pixel was dead.
so 2 months after this little stain appeared my whole display was in the same state as your girlfriend's seem to be now.
so i don't think this plug (it sits in place pretty tight) got loose and that's why it doesn't work anymore.
and my sister had exactly your problem. she dropped her s2 and it immediately went black
she hat to sent it in as well ...
good luck
if you find out what's the problem and want to share it, i am curious about it as well
If possible, check for loose connectors first.
I don't know about replacing the screen. The sheer amount of LOCA makes it a messy job.
Probably the display is dead. You'd need to replace the screen+glass.
There is no back light on an oled screen.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
Does anybody have highres photos of the area around the connector for the screen?
Or experience with this kind of problem?
While replacing the screen of my SGP521, I attached the cable the wrong way around and some stuff got burned.
Attached a photo of what it looks for me.
The blue circle shows the broken/missing/burned thing.
I found the following image in an ebay auction.
In case anybody runs into this.
It looks like the burned area is connected to pins 6 and 7 on the connector and connected to ground through two capacitors.
Hey! We're you able to solve this?
My dad ran into the same problem and burned out capacitor...
Hi all,
I broke my screen and ordered a new one (without frame). Replacing it was easy (after waiting for it for more than a month... thanks COVID-19), except that I was dumb enough to miss it was using a ZIF connector, and forced-push the cable in (shame on me).
It broke some pins, at first I didn't even notice but when looking at some stuff I took a picture off, it clearly appeared some colors were... unusual (pink instead of green ). So I double checked and indeed, pins had been damaged.
Anyway, to my question: do you know by any chance where I could find a screen frame (which comes with the fcc cable the zif connector is soldered on)? I only found frames with the screen attached and of course I don't need another new screen...
I checked ebay, but the ones I found don't look at all like the original.
I'd also be interested by the cable alone, but it would be way harder to put back in place I guess (as it's also holding front sensors).
If someone has a dead Mi Mix 3, it could also be helpful...
Thanks!
EDIT: nevermind, Amaan at Cellspare.com did an awesome job finding the flex cable and adding it to their listing when I asked him for help! Everything's getting better now