I thought I posted this but I can't find it so if its a dupe.. sorry
I had previously paired my HTC M8 to my car and it was working great (better than my S4 ever worked). I had to take my car in for repairs and got a loaner for a few days. In an attempt to get my phone to pair to the loaner I accidentally deleted my cars profile on my phone. I can not get the my car and phone to pair back up. I put the car into pairing mode and tell the phone to search for devices. When the car pops up on the phone, I click it. Almost immediately the car says pairing failed and the phone says the pin number was incorrect. There is NO profile on the phone for the car, its almost like it didn't delete all of the data and is trying to use it to connect to the car. I remember a bug like this a few years back and it required you to root the phone and delete the list of devices the phone had discovered. I haven't rooted yet and I'm also not looking forward to a factory wipe.
Does anybody have and ideas on what can be done within the bounds of an unrooted phone?
Also and this might make my decision to root easier. Its been a while since I used sense, Is there still not a way to get the launcher to rotate into landscape when you hold the phone in landscape?? Is there a custom sense ROM that allows you to do this that keeps blink (I decided to force myself to use it )
Is there a profile for the phone on the car? If so, delete it and start from scratch. Also, try common pairing codes like 0000 or 1234.
kappen said:
I thought I posted this but I can't find it so if its a dupe.. sorry
I had previously paired my HTC M8 to my car and it was working great (better than my S4 ever worked). I had to take my car in for repairs and got a loaner for a few days. In an attempt to get my phone to pair to the loaner I accidentally deleted my cars profile on my phone. I can not get the my car and phone to pair back up. I put the car into pairing mode and tell the phone to search for devices. When the car pops up on the phone, I click it. Almost immediately the car says pairing failed and the phone says the pin number was incorrect. There is NO profile on the phone for the car, its almost like it didn't delete all of the data and is trying to use it to connect to the car. I remember a bug like this a few years back and it required you to root the phone and delete the list of devices the phone had discovered. I haven't rooted yet and I'm also not looking forward to a factory wipe.
Does anybody have and ideas on what can be done within the bounds of an unrooted phone?
Also and this might make my decision to root easier. Its been a while since I used sense, Is there still not a way to get the launcher to rotate into landscape when you hold the phone in landscape?? Is there a custom sense ROM that allows you to do this that keeps blink (I decided to force myself to use it )
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Make sure you have the advanced setting of "allow data transfer over bluetooth" or something enabled. Without this checked off I had the same problem as you. I think the setting is located in the bluetooth device listing when you try to pair the phone.
What car model, year, etc.? Assuming its a factory head unit, otherwise what brand/model head unit? And if its a factory head unit, do you happen to know who actually manufactures it?
Unfortunately, the Bluetooth standard is not nearly as "standard" as you would hope. The sheer number of different devices and accessories made by different manufacturers means compatibility issues are fairly common; and also makes it difficult to troubleshoot such connection issues.
Try to delete the device from the car head unit, as previously mentioned (if you haven't already). Otherwide, try to see if your head unit has a way to reset or re-initialize the system. Just deleting the profile for the phone may not be enough. Such is the case with my 2012 Subaru Impreza head unit (made by Kenwood, from what I understand). Just deleting the phone's profile and re-pairing causes issues (phone will not auto reconnect whenever the car is started, need to toggle Bluetooth off and on again to connect). But re-initializing the system on the head unit (then re-pairing the phone) fixes this. Unfortunately, this is completely in-obvious and not well documented. The only way I found out about this is from a XDA member that happens to work at a Subaru dealer and happens to be there "tech guy".
Related
I have two bluetooth devices that look like headsets to my (CDMA)Hero -- an AT&T cordless phone that pretends to be a headset and treats it like a second landline (ie, I can make outgoing calls, and answer incoming calls, using any of the cordless phone's handsets), and Ford SYNC (which also appears to be a bluetooth headset and integrates it with the car stereo for handsfree use while driving).
The problem is, SYNC doesn't "turn off" when the car is off -- not even when the car is off and the alarm is on. It's *always* active, and always trying to be the Hero's metaphorical object of desire. Worse, it seems to have a more powerful radio and/or better antenna than the AT&T cordless phone, and fights with it constantly for the phone's attention.
This isn't a new problem... it happened all the time with my Vogue/Touch/PPC6900, but back then I didn't know what the root of the problem was. I just knew that my phone seemed to flake out a few times a week, and I'd get incoming calls that couldn't be answered with the cordless phone handsets. Since the Hero helpfully "makes Toast" and alerts me every time there's a handoff, I quickly discovered the problem's root. Now, I'm just trying to find a solution to it.
Just to give you an idea of how bad it is, my car is about 25 feet from my kitchen (where the AT&T cordless phone's base is), on the other side of a concrete wall and two drywall walls... and it *still* occasionally manages to grab possession of the phone away from the AT&T cordless phone.
So... is there some way to tell the phone, "If you see both SYNC and the AT&T cordless phone, ignore SYNC and pair with the phone... in fact, just ignore SYNC entirely if you've seen the AT&T cordless phone within the past 30-60 seconds"? Or, failing that, is the Hero's bluetooth pairing behavior governed by something that can be overridden by a program of my own -- say, an event handler that wedges itself into the bluetooth event chain and prevents the Hero from ever hearing SYNC's mating call if it's currently connected to the AT&T base? Where in the API would I even *look* for something like this?
After the pairing procedure for the Galaxy SII to the Vehicle (uconnect), it works fine. Turning off the phone and back on, still remains paired. However, if we were to turn off the bluetooth and GPS for battery life on the phone and then turn it back on when I want to pair, the phone looses the memory of the pairing and we need to re-pair it. This wouldn't be a huge deal except that uconnect make you delete the pairing phone and resync it, a real pain in the @$$. Did you experience this and am I missing something that can be done in the phone setting to not loose the pairing when bluetooth is turn off/on on the phone.
Thanks
mcshame said:
After the pairing procedure for the Galaxy SII to the Vehicle (uconnect), it works fine. Turning off the phone and back on, still remains paired. However, if we were to turn off the bluetooth and GPS for battery life on the phone and then turn it back on when I want to pair, the phone looses the memory of the pairing and we need to re-pair it. This wouldn't be a huge deal except that uconnect make you delete the pairing phone and resync it, a real pain in the @$$. Did you experience this and am I missing something that can be done in the phone setting to not loose the pairing when bluetooth is turn off/on on the phone.
Thanks
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Never had a problem with mine losing pairing. Has another device been able to hold a pairing to it in the past?
What's a "uconnect"? It doesn't rely on remote power being hooked up correctly by any chance does it?
knightnz said:
Never had a problem with mine losing pairing. Has another device been able to hold a pairing to it in the past?
What's a "uconnect"? It doesn't rely on remote power being hooked up correctly by any chance does it?
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Sorry about that. Uconnect is the Bluetooth service installed on Dodge vehicles in North America.
The Uconnect holds 2 phones, in my case a Blackberry and the GSII. If I was to turn off Bluetooth on the blackberry and then later reactivate it, the blackberry does not forget the pairing and they pair with no problem. However, if I was to turn off the Bluetooth on the GSII, it seems to forget and I need to start the whole pairing process all over again.
EDIT: lol, I'm a product of French Canadian bilingualism, I can't spell for crap
I keep my BT on full time, but just out of curiosity i followed your steps and no such issue on my Nissan factory radio bluetooth. Probably some weird compatibility issue.
Does anyone have any experience/recommendations for an Android-based car stereo head unit? My old stereo has just died, so I am interested in what people think of the currently available ones. I have a double din space.
eBay seems to have several available that are similar to this: http://www.engadget.com/2011/09/15/ca-fi-is-an-aftermarket-android-car-stereo-that-wont-fit-in-you/
There are ones where the Android part is essentially a separate tablet (probably not what I'm after, judging by the videos) http://www.erisin.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=253
Parrot make this single-din stereo: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Parrot-Aste...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1343930713&sr=1-24
There are no doubt many others too. Prices seem to be in the £200 - £280 range which is about my limit.
Nobody has any experience of these or opinions at all?
I think I'm leaning towards the Parrot as it's rootable, and the single-din size is more likely to fit whatever car I get after my current one.
Bump for this thread. I just recently thought about getting into one of these units too, my only concern is how "locked down" they would be in terms of getting rid of their default launchers and crap they have. I basically want a way to just have android by itself running on the car - I can get apps for just about everything else. Ideally I want a clone of my phone on the car that would sync with my phone. Or better yet, simply a way to have a "remote display" for my phone. That way, anything I'm doing on the car side of things would be the same on my phone, like a received email, new internet bookmark, or something like that.
~T.J.
I just picked up a "Road Cyberman" from China Jiaho (actually they call it something else, but it's the same as Chinavasion's Road Cyberman, except $100 cheaper).
It's running Gingerbread 2.3.5 and proving difficult to root. No adb on the usb (even with debug option), no google apps (although I found some apks that sort of work) and no adb wireless available.
The devices works fine, but I would like to have a little bit more control over it.
I've tried Gingerbreak and the other get root apks, but no luck so far.
Yeah, I have seen a lot of those units, but I kind of changed my mind. I have recently been looking into doing something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Q-UXDi3dm3U
I have been following that company for a while, and they just recently released that video and are taking pre-orders for the new board. My biggest hold up at this point is that I would like to use a single DIN stereo for the "amp" by running the audio from their device into the aux input of my existing stereo. I need to find room to mount both the double DIN screen and a custom spot for the single DIN stereo I already have. I would then have the choice of using the stereo without plugging in the phone if I didn't want to for whatever reason. Alternatively, if I can find a good FM tuner app for my phone and a good customizable dock mode, I could eliminate the stock stereo and just run the inputs into a standard automotive 4 channel amp. This of course means you get nothing for a car stereo unless you connect the phone though, unlike the other plan.
Of course, another thought I had was getting a used double DIN touch screen DVD player and using their interface board to convert it to run the Android screen through it, then run the audio straight into the aux input of the touch screen DVD player. That way you have the ability to use the system "as is" out of the box, OR run the Android device through the screen. I think this is the best option, but it also takes the most money since you have the expense of the used double DIN touch screen unit first. I also wonder about picture quality and touch screen sensitivity with the built in touch screens on those units.
Anyway, just food for thought!
~T.J.
EDIT: One of the other hold ups is the calling. I would like to use an external mic and have audio come through the car speakers, currently using that board you are still calling through the device, thus you would need a Bluetooth headset from my understanding. I would like to avoid that if possible also. This is another good reason to go with the double DIN stereo since some of those support Bluetooth calling already and you could probably make/receive calls that way completely hands free.
EDIT #2: If you were into car monitoring and such also, you could easily get a bluetooth OBD interface and run the software on the phone (such as torque) so you could display live data from your car on your dash also. Something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay-ZvTn3fLo&t=45s
I picked up one of these after my buddy sent me this thread. It's got the power, but needs a root bad. Wish I knew how to find root for an Android device.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17228
This is a recurring problem i keep having across android phones and I'm trying to find some kind of solution ....
Ive got a few different car stereos, they all allow usb mass storage mounting to directly read/play songs from the phone.
They all require the same basic things: they expect to see a fat32 partition, they load the first and only the first partition that they can see, and they load every "media" file in the drive, including the nav turn by turn cache, etc.
Im hoping someone can write a program similar to "multi mount sd card" that basically allows you to choose a particular folder where you know all of your music, and only your music, is stored, and present that single folder to the car stereo as a good old fashioned mass storage device with a fat32 partition. Theoretically, id hope to leave the rest of the storage access able to the other programs on the phone, the only thing that would be affected maybe is the music player....which i wouldn't be using. I have different kinds of problems with getting this to work across different phones, an app like this could fix them all at once.
Ive got a lot of different tech experience e but im not a dev by any stretch. Ive tried a lot and my current issue is card order, stereo is seeing the internal card but my music is on external and it refuses to look past the first partition.
Anyone got any ideas? Ive got a razr (vzw) on the 215 leak.
Just wondering, I have a few decks in my cars and trucks also... Why do you plug your phone into the deck? I just recently got a Pioneer deh-6400bt for 149$ that allows me to seamlessly use Bluetooth to play music and also to talk with for hands free since its technically illegal to talk on the phone in Oregon....gr... anyways, And another point almost all decks that I have used, kenwood, alpine, pioneer, don't push enough power through the USB to make it worth your while to plug your phone in while using it. And all of those decks that had USB input also had a AUX input in the front.
he probably wants to use the deck to control the music, which can't be done with the aux cable
That is true... Have to tell you though.. BT is the shizzz though.. get in your rig and start it up... connects to phone and continues streaming where it left off and having the hands free is awesome
1. I actually have the pioneer deh-p6200bt in one of my cars - and it doesn't stream bluetooth audio, only phone functions. My other vehicle has a deck which can stream BT audio, and it's great for some things, like pandora, but with my internal music collection the audio quality is just not up to par, it's an obvious weak link.
2. The USB port charges at standard USB rates. It isn't a quick charge but it's certainly enough to make things worthwhile. I've found that on extended, 6-10 hour drives, running pandora, wifi tether, nav, torque and leaving the screen on constantly, yes, it can discharge to the point where it shuts off. I was running this configuration while driving for a touring band once. More often, however, I'm not using everything at once, and i turn the screen off just because I don't always need it. It seems that I can run pandora, nav, torque, and have the phone still actually charge, it was serving wifi tether to the rest of the van that caused the phone to go over the edge and actually pull more power than it wAas getting in. Moreover, the bigger problem I wind up having is that phones will actually stop charging themselves from overheating (sun heat through windshield, and/or just to much load on the phones systems at once), at which point the amperage is irrelevant. In fact this may have been the ONLY problem I was having, while driving I couldn't pay enough attention to the phone to figure out much other than "oh hell it shut off cause its cooking itself".
3. Yes, I want control over tracks from front of deck, and USB is THE most complete way to do that, especially in the one car I have where i have steering wheel controls. I can search for specific tracks from the wheel, as well as call up any phone functions, which is more than the BT side would be able to do - in BT audio mode my systems seem to only be able to start/pause and track forward/reverse. Having hardware buttons that handle both phone and music leaves the screen of the device free for torque or maps.
4. On the audio quality note, if you're playing digital files stored on the device, nothing beats using the stereo to play them via USB, because the deck itself is the actual computer doing the conversion and the D/A converters in the deck should theoretically be nicer than anything in a cell phone. Its the cleanest path one could have.
For things like pandora, this isn't always possible, and in that case the next best option would be a toss up between BT and the 3.5mm jack, based on your ears which is cleaner. in absolutely ideal scenarios, where BT on the deck supports the more recent high quality a2dp codecs, BT can sound as good or better than the cable. A2DP audio isn't exactly this clear cut though, as the blanket of A2DP doesn't specify which codecs are supported, and the better ones are a more recent thing. I'll say that the cell phones have been good about this, it's more that the decks themselves don't always have the newer codecs. And in addition to that, there's still the matter of settings within either device, such at bitpool on the phone, that can have an effect on the sound. Unfortunately, my setup is such that only one deck I have does actual BT streaming, and while nice for some things definitely doesn't sound as good as when it is cabled or using USB directly.
The cable has the disadvantage of running through multiple conversions - the phone goes from D to A through it's own, lower quality converter, the stereo gets that signal as A, changes it to D in order to apply EQ/etc, then back to A as it goes down to the amps. It's generally unnecessary to do something like this if one can avoid it.
There is a third option, but this is very rare and just sort of coming to market - if you happen to have an in car video system with an HDMI input, it will send the streaming audio info as a pure digital signal and as with USB the radios D/A converters will be the units making the actual sound and thus being just as clean. An example of a unit like this is the Pioneer SPh-da100 (I could be wrong on model number), AKA the "appradio2". These are rare, and the least expensive version of this I've found is around 300-350 bucks. One thing I don't like about the appradio is that it seems to have only 2 sets of preamp outs....other than that, it looks like an amazing solution for at least one of my problems!
Basically.... sorry about the confused ramblings. I'm still trying to figure this out. The funny thing is - the phone presents the two storages, internal and external, and both of my radios make the connection - however one radio, a Dual unit, actually sees the external partition first and works fine, while the pioneer radio actually sees the internal first and it gives me nothing! the third vehicle I have, I actually am just using the 3.5mm in for sheer simplicity, it's an old crappy car that has no use for such a nice setup and the moto car dock with the combo usb/audio cable is actually a perfect fit for it. For the other cars, the moto car dock actually sucks, because it won't pass USB data, but that's another issue for another thread. Most likely I'm gonna gut it's frame and insert a straight through USB data cable for it.......
But I still need some way to make the phone consistently present the right info, all the time, every time!
Bump......
Anyone? Theres got to be someone else out there as frustrated by this as I am.....
Well, you're not the only one. I've running a Kenwood deck, on my Razr prior to the ICS update, I got it to work every time, since then...it's like rolling a die and trying to get lucky 7. Something in the update must have disabled the order of recognition of partitions coming up. I was able to get it to work...*once*. I've read that leaving dev/debug mode on some devices cause enough of a timing delay to let the deck recognize the sdcard, but this didn't work for me. There's actually a kenwood app that's supposed to help with all this but of course for me it does nothing. You might want to try the debug mode thing - I've read for some people that worked. I just want a way to configure the phone to *only* mount the sdcard drive when setup as a usb mass storage device. I'm assuming this is the problem, the internal storage confusing the deck.
It's been very frustrating...
Hello.
The phone is stock, and runs on Android 11. The problem exists since month (so independent of most current updates).
Usually Bluetooth-Devices seem to work flawlessly. I however have one device, which even though it's been paired always promts for a pin on the phone when reconnected. Sure enough, pin was not changed, but for every reconnect, I have to type in the pin on the phone. Annoying, especially since it's a frequently reconnected connection in the car.
The car stereo is based on WinCE.
Questions:
Does anybody have any idea, why the phone always wants the pin again on reconnection?
Any suggestions in regards to solving the issue, besides throwing the car stereo away?
Thank you for taking your time and reading my issue
If this is the wrong place to ask, can somebody point me in the right direction please?