Hi , I get tired of holding the device at reasonable level in front of me while watching episodes/movie during flight.
It seems possible to bend some plastic to fix the HTC to the raised eating tray (jam the "holder" between the closed tray..)
did you see something like this before ? - or any similar solution ?
AlCapone said:
Hi , I get tired of holding the device at reasonable level in front of me while watching episodes/movie during flight.
It seems possible to bend some plastic to fix the HTC to the raised eating tray (jam the "holder" between the closed tray..)
did you see something like this before ? - or any similar solution ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not seen one but sounds great!...sounds like you have the idea.
It isn't too difficult to make something like this from aluminium, or even perspex plastic just some considered bending.
I am a steel fabricator(amongst other things!) next time you are on the plane take some cardboard with you and make a dummy one with it, then you can use it later to make one from something more substantial.... and sell them all over the world to Iphone users!
yes, it would need to be a flexible material, yet hold a device without acting too much as a a spring.
I don't think "one size fits all" - it have to be adjustable in height/distance to the user.
Too bad a suction cup won't work.
I use one of these in my car. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Win...OR-INCLUDED/dp/B002BBS1AC/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_a
I found !
It's sold as accessory for a certin crappy, censorship, survelliance-device.
- but it works great for Touch Pro2 too !
it's called "in your face" viewbase
you can find it on Ebay
READ THIS POST AND POST 74 AND FURTHER
Have you ever seen such quality in the GPS signals and the fixes? (picture 1)
Ever since I got my TFP in early January I have been trying to find a way to enhance the GPS and the Wifi. I read just about all the threads on these subjects and tried every tweak. Even the crazy ones ;-) But because of the form factor I wasn't going to drill holes and put antennas on the back (respect guys, awesome work)
It started with a poster that got flamed straight away. He put a phone on the top right hand corner and got a better GPS. I felt sorry for him because everyone treated him like a retard. Just for the sake of being able to put the flamers in their spot I gave his idea a chance.
And it worked!!! But it was not practical. I can't walk around with a phone pressed against my TFP. But it was a start. Something started happening.
Next came the screwdriver trick. Even better result. Then I discovered the paperclip trick. Again improvement. But still not good enough and certainly not stable. It was difficult to reproduce. It became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
On the Wifi side people started enhancing their signal by placing foil the right Wifi antenna. Then they started using beer cans. It worked for some. But for others it didn't work. Theory was that somehow the Wifi signal got shielded forcing the other Wifi antenna to kick in. Tried it. Worked sometimes and at other moments didn't work. But there was something. And again it became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
Furthermore I started fooling around with grounding to the back plate. It had a dramatic effect on Wifi and GPS. As soon as something touches the back plate the signals die. I got the impression that the Wifi and GPS antenna were to close to each other and with all the RF signals they were screwing each other.
But all together there were things happening. I started documenting exact positions and sizes of the tweaks I was applying. Wifi was reasonable for me as long as I had a good base signal. GPS had my attention. I could get an external GPS, I could tether from my phone, I could buy a map, I could ask directions.
But NO!!!!
I wanted the GPS inside the Prime to get a reasonable fix.
It has cost me a lot of hours of trying, tweaking, adapting, and documenting.
But......
I FOUND THE 10 CENTS SOLUTION!!!
You only need to buy a 1 mm stainless steel cable.
Instructions (also see diagram):
1. First get yourself a beer. And drink it (this is the best part)
2. Then cut yourself a square 15x25 mm from the can (carefull)
3. Stick it in the right place onto the glass
4. Make sure it is isolated with electical tape on the topside
5. Place steel cable across the isolated square (I don’t know if this matters but I used 9,75 mm length = 0,5 x wavelength of GPS)
6. Fix it in place with electrical tape
And ......
ENJOY A GOOD GPS (better than my HTC Sensation)
Up to now this is the best result I can get.
Probably sizes and locations can be optimized.
However my experience is that the cable has to extend outside the plane of the TFP. Either vertical or horizontal. As long as it is inside the confines and flat on the glass of the TFP the signal dies instantly
And the electrical tape on top can be exchanged for something better looking.
Customize it like a sticker of a mouse with the tail being the steel cable.
Or a droid sticker with antenna ears upwards.
Outside and in the car I get a 4 second lock and after 10 seconds 15 sats and 10 locked. Inside has improved but not really good enough.
I have reset the prime before testing, cleared AGPS and Wifi off.
I hope you guys enjoy and appreciate my solution.
And if someone finds a better or more elegant solution please post.
Have fun
Oh I forgot to mention. The trick also works with the paperclip. Use a small paperclip. When straightened the length is 95 mm. Also works. I turned to the steel cable because I wanted something flexible.
very cool.
I currently have a beer can piece myself on my prime
-not as precise as yours, but it improves my wifi
not a beer, but after this j i shall try!
You guys are awesome....I've been looking for this all day..... a reason to drink beer tonight ^_^ oh and a possible gps solution without opening my TFP
Does yours maintain GPS lock while moving at highways speeds?
wynand32 said:
Does yours maintain GPS lock while moving at highways speeds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll test that. Drink beer and going high speed on the autobahn
wynand32 said:
Does yours maintain GPS lock while moving at highways speeds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YEP
Perfect turn by turn navigation.
On the highway about 10 locks and in urban area a minimum of 6 locks.
And all the time average 14 sats in sight.
I have not tried it yet in an area with very tall buildings.
I think the highest buildings during my tests were 6 floors.
If this can be independently verified (and sounds like it can be), then someone could definitely make a little money with this. Not enough to retire on, but a little spending money.
A question: could this be made into something that could clip onto the Prime and so be easily added/removed? While I wouldn't tape anything to my Prime, I'd clip something on it if I were to want GPS to work (which I don't actually, but being speculative here).
wynand32 said:
If this can be independently verified (and sounds like it can be), then someone could definitely make a little money with this. Not enough to retire on, but a little spending money.
A question: could this be made into something that could clip onto the Prime and so be easily added/removed? While I wouldn't tape anything to my Prime, I'd clip something on it if I were to want GPS to work (which I don't actually, but being speculative here).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes can be done.
I have been trying some solutions myself.
But the positioning turned out to be a critical factor.
Had to work that out first.
Wanted to share those results first.
But some sort of minimized and customisable clip on device would be nice.
Either pimped or just simple
I'm thinking you could use a simple clip like we use at home for potato chip bags. Line the inside of one part of the clip with the require metal, add in the wire, and then you could simply clip it on when you need GPS. Those clips aren't particularly strong, either, so no worries about damaging the Prime.
I might give this a shot myself this week, if I get some time.
The 12 Steps to ruin.... and a Hangover
My attempt (not really but could be fun)
1. Drink one can, cut open and place on screen.
Tape was too old. Can kept falling off.
2. Get another can and drink then place on screen again.
New tape stayed on but can didn't work.
3. Get yet another beer. Had a brainstorm idea to try doing the same for Wifi... got another beer.
Drank beers, needed a pee. Wife threw out the empties.
4. Got another two beers. Rang friend to ask if he had a beeter metal cutter....
5. Got two more beers then forgot what I was doing.
6. Glot two more bbers. Needed another pee.... Came back stood on berr cans. They were hiding on the floor.
7. Grot a new crate of beers in from the sheller hic! Drunk clan cut finger with can opener. Oh Eck...
8. Opened nudder bleer. Got drill out and dilled lotsh of oles on can.
Bol*x.... need a pee.
9. Sloped can wid whisky bottle... Poored whiskey on wire... Sh1t.. where da fcuk did wire come ffrommm???
10. Passt hammmmer to schreen. Bloke grass an spong at glue.
11. Glue noo worrrk. Need beeerr. hic!
12. Shud not put fingerss in live lectric shockket!
Fin............. Dont work.
zzzzZZzzZzzzzZzzzzzz
So I guess the prime as a glorified beer coaster wasnt too far off since it can improve signal strength.
hey guys come on.
I'm trying to start a serious thread and now you are turning it into something hilarious.
Well they always say 'keep on smiling'.
Had a great laugh.
Great story.
Let's see if thereś any beer left.
Cheers guys
Jesus.. you couldn't pay me to do this.
BTW, I got better than you without this nasty hack. I have screenshots of 18ft right in my backyard. No tin foil, no duct tape, not guitar/bike wire.
But none of it matters... AS YOU CANT DRIVE AND GET IT TO WORK
Lock-N-Load said:
Jesus.. you couldn't pay me to do this.
BTW, I got better than you without this nasty hack. I have screenshots of 18ft right in my backyard. No tin foil, no duct tape, not guitar/bike wire.
But none of it matters... AS YOU CANT DRIVE AND GET IT TO WORK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
VVVVVVVV
dingdonggggg said:
YEP
Perfect turn by turn navigation.
On the highway about 10 locks and in urban area a minimum of 6 locks.
And all the time average 14 sats in sight.
I have not tried it yet in an area with very tall buildings.
I think the highest buildings during my tests were 6 floors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually just got 18 ft in my brother's front yard Same place I kept getting nada for a couple weeks. No mods, but not stable either. Soon I'll have external antenna and be done with it
*EDIT: Obviously with data on, but I was getting 1 bird in and out of view with the same setup pre-.15. That is not to say .15 in any way helped this.
**EDIT:
PM'd you
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
Buxtahuda,
So what antenna will you be using?
dingdonggggg said:
Have you ever seen such quality in the GPS signals and the fixes? (picture 1)
Ever since I got my TFP in early January I have been trying to find a way to enhance the GPS and the Wifi. I read just about all the threads on these subjects and tried every tweak. Even the crazy ones ;-) But because of the form factor I wasn't going to drill holes and put antennas on the back (respect guys, awesome work)
It started with a poster that got flamed straight away. He put a phone on the top right hand corner and got a better GPS. I felt sorry for him because everyone treated him like a retard. Just for the sake of being able to put the flamers in their spot I gave his idea a chance.
And it worked!!! But it was not practical. I can't walk around with a phone pressed against my TFP. But it was a start. Something started happening.
Next came the screwdriver trick. Even better result. Then I discovered the paperclip trick. Again improvement. But still not good enough and certainly not stable. It was difficult to reproduce. It became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
On the Wifi side people started enhancing their signal by placing foil the right Wifi antenna. Then they started using beer cans. It worked for some. But for others it didn't work. Theory was that somehow the Wifi signal got shielded forcing the other Wifi antenna to kick in. Tried it. Worked sometimes and at other moments didn't work. But there was something. And again it became clear to me that positioning was very critical.
Furthermore I started fooling around with grounding to the back plate. It had a dramatic effect on Wifi and GPS. As soon as something touches the back plate the signals die. I got the impression that the Wifi and GPS antenna were to close to each other and with all the RF signals they were screwing each other.
But all together there were things happening. I started documenting exact positions and sizes of the tweaks I was applying. Wifi was reasonable for me as long as I had a good base signal. GPS had my attention. I could get an external GPS, I could tether from my phone, I could buy a map, I could ask directions.
But NO!!!!
I wanted the GPS inside the Prime to get a reasonable fix.
It has cost me a lot of hours of trying, tweaking, adapting, and documenting.
But......
I FOUND THE 10 CENTS SOLUTION!!!
You only need to buy a 1 mm stainless steel cable.
Instructions (also see diagram):
1. First get yourself a beer. And drink it (this is the best part)
2. Then cut yourself a square 15x25 mm from the can (carefull)
3. Stick it in the right place onto the glass
4. Make sure it is isolated with electical tape on the topside
5. Place steel cable across the isolated square (I don’t know if this matters but I used 9,75 mm length = 0,5 x wavelength of GPS)
6. Fix it in place with electrical tape
And ......
ENJOY A GOOD GPS (better than my HTC Sensation)
Up to now this is the best result I can get.
Probably sizes and locations can be optimized.
However my experience is that the cable has to extend outside the plane of the TFP. Either vertical or horizontal. As long as it is inside the confines and flat on the glass of the TFP the signal dies instantly
And the electrical tape on top can be exchanged for something better looking.
Customize it like a sticker of a mouse with the tail being the steel cable.
Or a droid sticker with antenna ears upwards.
Outside and in the car I get a 4 second lock and after 10 seconds 15 sats and 10 locked. Inside has improved but not really good enough.
I have reset the prime before testing, cleared AGPS and Wifi off.
I hope you guys enjoy and appreciate my solution.
And if someone finds a better or more elegant solution please post.
Have fun
Oh I forgot to mention. The trick also works with the paperclip. Use a small paperclip. When straightened the length is 95 mm. Also works. I turned to the steel cable because I wanted something flexible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like it close to the location for the Easy Wifi Improvement Mod only with the added wire.
PolishPoet said:
Looks like it close to the location for the Easy Wifi Improvement Mod only with the added wire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's the point.
Kill the primary WiFi (if that's what it does... and I think it does) with the aluminum, then use the wire as a conductor for the GPS signal, just kind of funneling it to the right area for the internal antenna to get a concentrated blast. Per RF theory I've seen around here, the signal then doesn't need a hard line to the antenna, it'll travel that little gap from covered wire to antenna easily.
hey! That crazy asian with the phone on the corner was me! I've been meaning to post my further investigation on this and this is what I did.
1. Bought a Moco case on Amazon for like $12.
2. Put Prime in case.
3. Cut a 5 inch speaker wire. The tiny ones, not monster cable but them average size wire about 22 gauge (?).
4. Place the wire under the case but above the Prime in same location as yours. It stuck out so I bent the end and tucked it into the headphone opening.
5. Went for a drive. I drive a bronco and with the case set up to stand the Prime up, I was able to watch GPS test as I drove. Kept very steady GPS lock with no less than 4 at a time. Tried Google maps with Bluetooth data tethering to my phone to draw map and now I have a 10.1 in screen gps !
I think getting a case (any case) is a good investment for your Prime. It can also very casually and discreetly hide any of these " additions" to your Prime to enhance certain features like those with the foil wifi "mod".
So I didn't get to drink any beer but I sure will not drink scotch out a can!
OMG beard, too funny ...lmao....
What are the best Google Cardboard sets in terms of features versus value you have found for the Nexus 6p?
Ideally, the phone would fit well and the set-up would include magnets, NFC, and a head strap. I am particularly interested in something that allows one to wear glasses at the same time as the set-up.
keever25 said:
What are the best Google Cardboard sets in terms of features versus value you have found for the Nexus 6p?
Ideally, the phone would fit well and the set-up would include magnets, NFC, and a head strap. I am particularly interested in something that allows one to wear glasses at the same time as the set-up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Following. I too am interested, and I wear glasses. Based on what I've read, the better units come with optical options for near and far sighted people. That would in theory negate the need for glasses? I have personally not used any of the VR units and have only recently become intrigued by them once I bought the 6P.
Hopefully someone will offer up some good options based on experience. While on the topic, what's the difference between Optimus Prime vs. using our phones? Or does the Optimus Prime use a phone? Have it's own screen? Do you have to buy "game/experience specific" titles? Or are there apps? Again, I'm new to the game.
I'm waiting for my Shinecone VR to come in, although it doesn't have a magnet. The advertised FOV is ~ 110*. I only have a Google cardboard at the moment, so my standards aren't exactly mind blowing. I'll be happy to post details when it arrives.
Bump
Also, interested in any recommendations.
530farm, cheers from across the bridge in the 650!
So my Shinecon VR headset came in yesterday. Had the opportunity to thoroughly try it out in short bursts of time. That means I haven't watched a movie on it.
Place of purchase: AliExpress (Amazon has it too but I purchased from AE because I knew my Nexus 6P was going to take a while to arrive anyways)
Price: $27 from AE (there's a range of prices)
Phone tested with headset: Nexus 6P
Comfort:
In comparison to the original Google Cardboard, it's obviously more luxurious and comfortable. The Shinecon has faux leather all around the areas that contact your face, except for the nose. The nose area is where a bit of light leaks in, but can easily be remedied with a bit of foam. However, I decided to leave this open as a port for ventilation because the phone can get warm depending on what type of VR content you're consuming.
The head straps are also made of good quality Velcro, so it's easily adjustable. The placement of the straps also seem pretty ideal, as the headset doesn't seem to be torquing my head downwards too much while in use.
Features:
The Shinecon has a few knobs to tweak the lens' position. There is a single knob on top that adjusts the distance between the lens. There's also knobs on either side of the headset that adjusts the fore/aft of the entire phone to bring the display into focus.
The phone loads into the headset with a spring/clamp mechanism. However, I found it difficult to load/unload my N6P mostly because the phone itself is pretty large for the mount. I wouldn't recommend any phone larger than the N6P for the Shinecon, but there's a tiny bit of wiggle room if you insist. The clamping mechanism also seems rather fragile, as the plastic bends pretty easily. The tabs for the clamp are also rather thin. If it does break, the clamp/tray can be removed with a few screws, and you could load the phone into the headset with some foam. Once the phone is loaded into the tray, all you do is fold the front "door" back into position and a magnet keeps things closed. The magnet seems sufficiently strong to hold my N6P without any problems. There is also an extra backplate that can be removed (attached via magnet) to allow better ventilation of your device, as well as exposing the camera for augmented reality, etc.
The front door also has a gap on either side of the headset, allowing for easy access to any ports on the phone that are on the top or bottom of the phone's edges. I could easily charge my N6P and use headphones while using the Shinecon.
Viewing Content:
Since this headset does not include any of its own software, I can only talk about the experience provided by 3rd party apps. I used Cardboard Theater to view my own content, and tested other VR videos with VRSE and Youtube. Everything was very simple to use, and the lens were of great quality. Picture was very clear, and the FOV was fantastic. Using Cardboard Theater, I was able to adjust "how far I am to the screen." In other words, it felt like I was on the front row of the theater with very good immersion. Not much black space on the edges of the field, which was a problem on the original Google Cardboard headset. I don't know if the advertised 110* FOV is accurate, but I'm pretty satisfied with what I'm seeing.
Build Quality:
Overall build quality was better than expected. Everything fit together very nicely. Nothing was squeaky. There were no loose threads on the leather. The hinges did not creak. The lenses weren't scratched or warped. I basically had no complaints. Especially given the very cheap price, I would definitely buy it again. This headset was slightly more pricey than a few other Chinese brand headsets, but the quality and FOV/immersion seemed to justify the slightly higher price tag.
TLDR:
I liked it. I would buy it again.
If you liked the review, a simple press of the "thanks" button will do! If you have questions, you can ask here or PM me. Keep in mind, I'm just a VR n00b, but this headset has served me well for the 2 days I've had it.
Is there a way to change the angle needed to activate tilt-to-wake? I've had a G Watch for a day now, and I'm already getting shoulder issues from trying to activate the screen. I just can't twist my wrist far enough. The watch seems to work best when I wear it on the side of my wrist, which is a really awkward way of wearing it. Right now I either have to wave around like a madman with the risk that I'll punch someone, or I have to rotate it with my other hand, which defeats the entire purpose of wrist gestures.
In short, this is just kind of ****. Is there a way to set the rotation needed to activate the watch?
I don't think it s possible. Even for me the angle of rotation is too high and I have to move the entire shoulder and arm to wake it .... I can tilt to wake it almost with no problem but gestures to scroll open and go back makes me look like a fool
open up your phone (check youtube on how to do that) and put some soft 1 millimeter thick sticky electrical tape on top of the round vibrating motor on the right side besides the USB-C connector.
I used this tape: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DUI4CF2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is 0,75mm thick self sealing electrical tape that is sticky on both sides.
The problem seems to be that the metal housing of the motor needs to be isolated from the metal back plate of the phone. metal on metal = rattling noise. No need to pull any cables. I left the fingerprint reader connection on while doing this fix.
Don't put to much tape on it though because it hardens with too much pressure on the back plate of the phone and the isolating properties are gone (rattles again)
Hope this helps someone who is looking for a solution for this. I could not find any real fix for this. The rattling noise was driving me nuts.
Thanks for this. I'll try it when I get the chance. It appears a small section of us have this problem, as I don't see many people complaining about it. The only fix I had ever used so far, was to flash a custom kernel with vibration intensity control and reducing it to around 70-ish strength.
KwesiJnr said:
Thanks for this. I'll try it when I get the chance. It appears a small section of us have this problem, as I don't see many people complaining about it. The only fix I had ever used so far, was to flash a custom kernel with vibration intensity control and reducing it to around 70-ish strength.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am totally happy with my very stable B10 + LOS15.1 and I really did not want to go through another clusterf--- of flashery again. It is differently a bad design choice. The vibration motor almost touches the "roof", the aluminum chassis. they placed a tiny round "sponge" on the roof where it touches with the motor. I bet it just looses it's elasticity over time and the motor starts slightly touching the roof.