Hi, so i was removing the silicon on top of the Audio IC (U604) so i could get some flux under the chip to reflow the balls, to fix the mic and speaker problem on calls. Anyway, i accidentally knocked off a resistor in the process. I tried to get it back on by putting it in position, and hoping it would reflow at the same time as the Audio IC. But i was using a heat gun as part of the reflow process, and even though i put some tweezers on the resisitor to hold it down, it was still blown away by the heat gun air.
So, my question is, what problems will this cause to the function of the phone? What would the function of this resistor be?
Resistor details:
Name/Location: R616
Description: RC1005F364CS
See attached image for illustration of motherboard location.
I searched for this decription name, and found this place to purchase:
http://octopart.com/rc1005f364cs-samsung+electro-mechanics-22085952
Details: Res Thick Film 0402 360K Ohm 1% 1/16W ±100ppm/°C Molded SMD SMD T/R
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Hi there,
as i wrote in the Rainbow Mod for Lumia 800 thread, i'll try to restore DLOAD, update to latest FW, and restore Qualcomm (all with ATF Testpoint) again, that i can give you updated files on Partition 3 of the phone, that the latest rainbow mod build will be working on all phones...
But it seemed that i had a pretty shaky hand, when i was soldering my device, that i "destroyed" a component.
First, it was still fitting, but a little "twistet" as you can see on the pictures attached.
I checked if the phone is still working, and it did, except the "light sensor" which turns off the display when making a call... I can now cancel the call with my ear accidently
I realised an extreme heat and battery consumption when making a call... but maybe it just seems so, because i'm looking for "mistakes" because of the broken component...
Then, because of this, i disassembled my phone again, to check the component... and i just touched it a little bit, and now it fell off...
The component i'm talking about is called "L1605" in the schematics plan, so it should be a "coil" (hope this is correct, as English isn't my native lang...)
Of course, because it "fell off", i don't know how it was placed before. Does a coil have a "polarity", i mean "+" or "-" ? or can i just solder it back onto the mainboard?
i hope you can help me
cheers
hi there,
i searched again and found out, that the "L1605" is an "27nH_0402". In the schematics plan it's part of the "reciever", as you can see in the image attached.
Can you tell me if this coil is important? It "just" goes to GND, so maybe it would be enough to just connect the to pins (were the coil was placed) with some solder ?
It also seems to be part of "FM & GND", so maybe it's just important for FM Radio? I don't use this anyway...
pls help!
i guess it has no polarity...but if u could upload a more detailed picture maybe i can see it clearly..
or search for ( as u can see the black component which has a white sign near the two condensator - it has polarity ) signs, i mean +, or a little colored circle on the component, or some cut-off and if it has one of these it has polarity.
what kind of paste did u use for the soldering? leadless or pb? it does matter.
ps : L means Inductor
It's a simple inductor. You can just solder it back in. It has no polarity.
Do not shorten the contacts. The circuit will probably behave bad.
hi there,
can you recommend me any "special" hardware?
With links would be great!
I only have an ordinary soldering-iron, whrere the tip is 3 times larger then the component
cheers
Here is some of the equipment I use for such a fix:
* Weller WES51 soldering station
* Weller ETU soldering iron fine tip
* curved fine tip tweezers
* straight tip dissection probe
* 20x stereo microscope
* solder
The WES51 soldering iron is available for under US $100 online (Amazon and elsewhere) with a variety of replacement tips available for about US $5 each, and I recommend it if you will be doing much soldering. Otherwise, you can probably find a cheaper one with a fine tip, but without temperature control. When soldering and desoldering small two contact components such as your broken inductor, the best method I've found is to use a second soldering iron so you can melt the solder on both the pads at the same time. Small components are hard to handle, so tweezers and a long sharp needle / dissection tip are very helpful. It's hard to see what you are doing at that scale, so a stereo microscope is almost mandatory. AmScope has some cheap microscopes that are adequate for this purpose, or you can find a fancier used one on eBay. My only complaints with the AmScope microscope I have is that the depth of field is somewhat shallow and I need to get my face closer to the work area than I would like. You can use and lead/tin alloy or lead-free solder designed for electronics use to do a fix like this. Lead / tin alloy solder melts at a lower temperature and is much easier to work with than lead-free solder but may not be as easily available in some countries.
I can't tell for sure without a bill of materials for the phone, but based on what you've said it seems like the replacement part is a 27 nH air core inductor 0402 size such as Murata LQW15AN27NJ00D, which is easily available through Digi-Key and possibly other online electronics component vendors.
open up your phone (check youtube on how to do that) and put some soft 1 millimeter thick sticky electrical tape on top of the round vibrating motor on the right side besides the USB-C connector.
I used this tape: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DUI4CF2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is 0,75mm thick self sealing electrical tape that is sticky on both sides.
The problem seems to be that the metal housing of the motor needs to be isolated from the metal back plate of the phone. metal on metal = rattling noise. No need to pull any cables. I left the fingerprint reader connection on while doing this fix.
Don't put to much tape on it though because it hardens with too much pressure on the back plate of the phone and the isolating properties are gone (rattles again)
Hope this helps someone who is looking for a solution for this. I could not find any real fix for this. The rattling noise was driving me nuts.
Thanks for this. I'll try it when I get the chance. It appears a small section of us have this problem, as I don't see many people complaining about it. The only fix I had ever used so far, was to flash a custom kernel with vibration intensity control and reducing it to around 70-ish strength.
KwesiJnr said:
Thanks for this. I'll try it when I get the chance. It appears a small section of us have this problem, as I don't see many people complaining about it. The only fix I had ever used so far, was to flash a custom kernel with vibration intensity control and reducing it to around 70-ish strength.
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I am totally happy with my very stable B10 + LOS15.1 and I really did not want to go through another clusterf--- of flashery again. It is differently a bad design choice. The vibration motor almost touches the "roof", the aluminum chassis. they placed a tiny round "sponge" on the roof where it touches with the motor. I bet it just looses it's elasticity over time and the motor starts slightly touching the roof.
Posting this for reference, for folks who might have the same issue.
GPS mostly stopped working on my Xperia X Compact; would work intermittently only about 10% of the time. GPS tools confirmed no GPS reception. Various postings throughout the internet indicated this to generally be a hardware issue, and fixable only via Sony service.
In my case, it turned out the GPS antenna was simply not making contact with the GPS connector on the mainboard. Fix was relatively easy.
The GPS/Cellular/WiFi/BT antennas on this phone are all located on a removable "inner frame". These antennas all "connect" to the mainboard via "contact points". There are no actual "locking connectors" or anything like that. Just pressure between the contact point on the "inner frame" and the corresponding contact points on the main board. Over time, the connection between these contact points can degrade due to dirt, oxidation, belly button lint, pixie dust, whatever.
Fix is to remove back cover, remove 7 screws holding down "inner frame", pop out "inner frame", make sure contact points are all clean, reseat "inner frame", tighten screws. I'm leaving out some minor details here; just watch the youtube Xperia X Compact teardown video for specifics. Note you will need tape and/or glue to keep the back cover on after this procedure; if you use a case it probably isn't an issue.
See attachment. Contact points are circled in blue & red. I don't know which ones are actually for the GPS, vs cell/WiFi/BT.
Hi guys. I've been working on a RN2 for a while now and something has been bothering me.
BACKGROUND
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Basically, it was a side phone I kept in emergency but as you know siblings who can't keep stuff safe, I ended up lending it to him (after having it broken by my other sibling and having to change the screen) and he ALSO broke it, so I changed it again.
___
Now, my problem is the following:
When I was working on the screen, I noticed it wouldn't turn on again, so, after buying aforementioned screen, I placed it and it still didn't turn on. When I tried the heat measuring, I noticed it was heating around the area where you plug the flex cable (black cable with 2 identical plugs that connects the charge module (which I also changed) and the motherboard. The heat is on the side of the MB. I tried to switch the plug backwards but it doesn't work either (and doesn't fit as it is backwards). I bought another flex cable (Theseus' boat much) and it still heated up. So it finally comes to the fact that the issue is in the MB. (I guess ?) Thing is, I don't know what exactly. Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks in advance, I've been on this for a few months now (working it when I have time).
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
blackhawk said:
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
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Click to collapse
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
Iliassine said:
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
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Click to collapse
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
blackhawk said:
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
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Click to collapse
Oh no, you did great! You gave me probably more information than I found the last few months! I will try the eraser thing, maybe I'll have some luck. I didn't really touch the board unless the un clip removal of components bands. I will take it down and see if this is what is going on! Thank you. I will keep the thread up to see if someone else has ideas and keep you updated!
Examine the mobo under an excellent high lumen point light source and use optical aids. Stereoscopic ones are best for this. Examine at different angles to look for solder cracks. They tend to be difficult to spot.
Remember out of circuit assemblies like the mobo are sensitive to ESD damage. Use a bare wood surface if no ESD mat/wrist strap are available. Raise room humidity to at least 50%.
Wear cotton not wool or synthetics.
Discharging yourself directly to an earth ground immediately before handling it helps. Nearly every object can retain a static charge to one degree or another even paper. Humidity helps to dissipate it once present but almost any material movement/friction can generate it.
Hi.
Some days ago my phone dropped from about 2m/6ft high. It was wearing a carbon fiber shell. There was no physical damage on the outside.
Since then, the phone randomly powers-off. Sometime takes some minutes, some time it does not pass through the Mi logo screen on boot.
Another issue it shows is with the videos. Any video shows only a green screen (like a chroma) with big pixel artifacts from time to time (like there is a decompression error). This happens with every video (youtube, minimized-youtube, image-in-image, instagram...). It even happens with the charging animation when I connect the power: full green screen with the percentage on it.
I managed to keep it powered on, more or less stable, by setting a plastic clamp on the upper-left corner of the screen (like where the camera is placed, but on the other side). That pressure seems to keep whatever is broken in place. I've managed to replace the clamp with some paper layers in the shell, so when the shell is set they make pressure on the back-cover and keep the phone on.
Any one has had a similar experience? Is that a soldering point broken or something like that? how could I repair it? reballing? Any one knows any service center in France/Belgium/Spain which is reliable (and won't cost me more than the value of the phone)?
Thanks in advance!
It might be a dislodged ribbon cable connector.
Otherwise a damaged display an/or mobo.
The SOC and other BGS form factor chipsets are suspectable to damage by board flexing and high G impacts.
A high G impact can internally damage chipsets as well. 6 feet is a lot...
blackhawk said:
It might be a dislodged ribbon cable connector.
Otherwise a damaged display an/or mobo.
The SOC and other BGS form factor chipsets are suspectable to damage by board flexing and high G impacts.
A high G impact can internally damage chipsets as well. 6 feet is a lot...
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Click to collapse
Thanks @blackhawk !