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This may be such an unusual use case that it hasn't been an issue for anyone other than me, but here's to hoping for a solution...
I've just bought a new car (2015 Honda Fit) which has a decent size LCD panel in the dash (but I opted not to get the expensive navigation system) and which also has full bluetooth integration and, surprisingly, an HDMI port for the screen. HDMI is one of the "source" settings, and Bluetooth is a separate one.
I've paired my Nexus 5 to the car in order to take and make phone calls and get the other integration features such as music and podcast playback over the car's audio. I had this idea that if I were to run the Nexus 5 through the large screen using HDMI (via a Slimport adapter), I can have a much nicer Google Maps based navigation system that would give something close enough to the experience of the in-dash nav system minus the touchscreen -- which is fine, as I can set the route, put the phone in a cupholder, and not bother with it again.
Now, here's the fatal snag. While the phone is paired to bluetooth, it insists on sending 100% of its audio through Bluetooth and doesn't send it through HDMI. The car is either-or on the sources. If it's on HDMI, it only plays back HDMI. The screen displays exactly as I hoped -- but no audio at all (again, it's going to Bluetooth). Now, I can switch over to Bluetooth and hear the sound but not get the display. I could kill the pairing to get both through HDMI, but now I lose the ability to receive calls over bluetooth with the handy steering wheel call answering and all of the amenities associated with that.
I'm wondering if there is some kind of workaround -- Android configuration that I've somehow never noticed, or a third party app -- which will allow the Nexus 5 to remain paired and actively Bluetooth connected while still sending audio through the HDMI port (Slimport). I don't see that this would as likely be a car-side solution.
The Nexus 5 is rooted stock 4.3.3.
Thank you in advance for help toward a solution.
qaelith.2112 said:
This may be such an unusual use case that it hasn't been an issue for anyone other than me, but here's to hoping for a solution...
I've just bought a new car (2015 Honda Fit) which has a decent size LCD panel in the dash (but I opted not to get the expensive navigation system) and which also has full bluetooth integration and, surprisingly, an HDMI port for the screen. HDMI is one of the "source" settings, and Bluetooth is a separate one.
I've paired my Nexus 5 to the car in order to take and make phone calls and get the other integration features such as music and podcast playback over the car's audio. I had this idea that if I were to run the Nexus 5 through the large screen using HDMI (via a Slimport adapter), I can have a much nicer Google Maps based navigation system that would give something close enough to the experience of the in-dash nav system minus the touchscreen -- which is fine, as I can set the route, put the phone in a cupholder, and not bother with it again.
Now, here's the fatal snag. While the phone is paired to bluetooth, it insists on sending 100% of its audio through Bluetooth and doesn't send it through HDMI. The car is either-or on the sources. If it's on HDMI, it only plays back HDMI. The screen displays exactly as I hoped -- but no audio at all (again, it's going to Bluetooth). Now, I can switch over to Bluetooth and hear the sound but not get the display. I could kill the pairing to get both through HDMI, but now I lose the ability to receive calls over bluetooth with the handy steering wheel call answering and all of the amenities associated with that.
I'm wondering if there is some kind of workaround -- Android configuration that I've somehow never noticed, or a third party app -- which will allow the Nexus 5 to remain paired and actively Bluetooth connected while still sending audio through the HDMI port (Slimport). I don't see that this would as likely be a car-side solution.
The Nexus 5 is rooted stock 4.3.3.
Thank you in advance for help toward a solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't help ith your situation, but I'm wondering if you can help with mine. I also just bought the 2015 Honda Fit. What I want to be able to do is mirror my Galaxy S4 to the screen for navigation purposes. But from what I understand, it will only work in Park. I don't have the cable yet and did't want to buy it unless I knew it would work.
For a quick test, I plugged a roku stick in the HDMI port. As expected, it worked fine until I put the car in gear. Then the display gets disabled. Does this happen with phone mirroring? Would I be able to actually use google maps and see it while in motion or will the screen shut off? What does and doesnt work with mirroring?
samseed101 said:
I can't help ith your situation, but I'm wondering if you can help with mine. I also just bought the 2015 Honda Fit. What I want to be able to do is mirror my Galaxy S4 to the screen for navigation purposes. But from what I understand, it will only work in Park. I don't have the cable yet and did't want to buy it unless I knew it would work.
For a quick test, I plugged a roku stick in the HDMI port. As expected, it worked fine until I put the car in gear. Then the display gets disabled. Does this happen with phone mirroring? Would I be able to actually use google maps and see it while in motion or will the screen shut off? What does and doesnt work with mirroring?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This behavior of the HDMI port / display actually became a far bigger problem than how to route the sound. I had been doing all of my testing with the car sitting in the garage, and because I wasn't ever able to get the sound to do what I needed, I didn't bother to go drive around with HDMI display enabled. I confirmed through this and consulting the manual that for "safety reasons" they have entirely disabled the HDMI input while the car is not in park. Unfortunately, I'd guess this is coded in the system's firmware which most of us aren't going to have a way to tamper with, so this is a fatal problem for what we're both looking to do. I was confident that there was probably some sort of solution to making audio go over both channels, but that's irrelevant in light of this problem.
So to summarize, I'll suggest not bothering with the Slimport (or the other kind of interface, if that's what your phone uses) because it will certainly be utterly useless for this and I don't foresee a solution. It looks like this thread is therefore dead. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, though -- I'd have continued working toward an audio solution and then discovered this bigger problem once I solved that one. You just saved me from wasting a lot of time.
samseed101 said:
I can't help ith your situation, but I'm wondering if you can help with mine. I also just bought the 2015 Honda Fit. What I want to be able to do is mirror my Galaxy S4 to the screen for navigation purposes. But from what I understand, it will only work in Park. I don't have the cable yet and did't want to buy it unless I knew it would work.
For a quick test, I plugged a roku stick in the HDMI port. As expected, it worked fine until I put the car in gear. Then the display gets disabled. Does this happen with phone mirroring? Would I be able to actually use google maps and see it while in motion or will the screen shut off? What does and doesnt work with mirroring?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One more thought (stating the obvious, I suppose) -- We've been hamstrung by the assumption that everyone is going to be using the display to watch movies while driving, even though we have excellent reasons which would actually make it safer (an easier to see navigation display). I guess Honda is mitigating lawsuits from the would-be idiots who might actually be watching American Idol episodes while driving to work.
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
geetee360 said:
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recall having an issue with my samsung headphones. They didn't work at one point, I rebooted and they were fine. The phone didn't even detect them for some reason. I've had no issues with aux in my car (aside from needing a new cable), however I thought it would be worth mentioning that my Note 2 had an issue with aux when it is on any AOSP ROMs. Selecting any app, even swiping the notification window down, sometimes even just leaving the music app and going back will stop the music from playing. The only solution for this was to go to the home screen unplug the aux start music playing and plug the cable back in and touch no other app. Again, it never did this with stock. I even went back to stock briefly because of this. AOSP seems to throw a fit with the aux cables.
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
infernosoft said:
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just want my G3 to work as it should for such a simple function as the headphone jack/aux port.
I want to listen to music in my car without fannying around with different cables etc etc.
I had a Galaxy Note and S4, both played fine in the same car with the same cabling.
Shame on LG for releasing us a substandard product that cannot perform the most basic of tasks correctly.
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
R2DeeTard said:
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first feeling was confusion. I was also worried my headphones wouldn't work. But I was able to watch a beautiful high def video on my phone last night with my headphones on
Sent from my LGLS990
I just got this phone too, and although I love it, I was very sad to have this issue! I haven't had it on any other phone I have owned, so I certainly hope it is fixed in a future update. That and the video force close bug, but that is for another thread!
Guys, there is nothing wrong with the AUX port on your cars -- and they don't trigger via sound. They trigger via either conductive circuitry or via ohm load. Can you test if you are still seeing these problems when *not* charging? This issue is typically related to bad grounds. This happens to me at work when my phone is charging and I plug my headphones directly into my G3. If I pass the audio to my PC first (to the line-in,) and THEN to my headphones, the static is mostly gone.
So try unplugging the power source, and using different aux cables. Another factor is try plugging the power source into the same feed as the stereo. Sometimes this isn't that easy though.
What's happening on the back end with the sound changing between songs, etc, is that the audio codec, (the chipset,) is turning off to conserve battery. For me, when the chip turns on, it grounds the 3.5mm port just fine, and when it's off, AND I have power connected with headphones, I can get that whine -- depending on the scenario. So basically, this is by design -- an energy conservation tactic. I would be okay with them leaving the audio chip on the entire time headphones are connected.
Had this problem too and found that as long as I was charging the phone it would play like it should.
Yep, grounding issue. At work, routing the aux signal through my PC works just fine WHILE charging -- if I unplug, then I get all the machine noise.
In general, though, the headphone output is pretty crappy on this device. Even when it's "working great," there is still a faint amount of white noise that can be heard. Much higher than my HTC M7. The S5 had similar performance as the G3 though.
I just bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And plugged it into:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F474DVG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So when I get in my car, it connects to the dongle for music and the car's blue tooth for phone.
It's not perfect, but gets the job done.
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just purchased this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406313911&sr=8-1&keywords=kensington+noise+reducing+car+audio+aux+cable
Working pretty well. Mainly solves the connectivity issues.
Still have the pop between tracks but it's much better.
Still have the "computer talk" garbage noise related to the display coming through the left channel.
I can live with this until LG or Android comes up with a fix.
aux problem
I guess I lucked out with my phone but then again maybe not. First off I will describe my setup, I have a 05 Subaru WRX with stock 6cd changer head unit ( no aux port ) I installed a Harmon Kardon Drive + Play iPod dock. This allows me to remote control my iPod and comes with a display that shows tracks and such. It works by FM transmitter but has an optional wire which I have that connects directly between the antenna and the stereo so you get little to no loss of signal. Between the AUX and my phone I connected a PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise device. My previous phone was an LG Optimus G which I loved, when I hooked this phone up I could listen to Pandora/TuneinRadio through my car speakers and upon making/receiving a call I would hear the call through the car speakers and when I talked the phone mic. would pick up my voice. When I attempt this with the G3 I get no popping between tracks but the phone mutes the mic and when I say mute I don't mean the mute button comes on I mean the other person can't hear me. I found if I unplug and plug the phone in during the call eventually the mic works again, but to do this while driving defeats the purpose of hands free calling. Does anyone else have this problem? (or a solution).
Click to open expanded view
gorillaz1 said:
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Works for me, thank you.
Mines does not work at all, with headphones or aux Jack, now I have to get Bluetooth headphones and bluetooth radio for car
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Do we know if LG is working on this issue? Or if it is something that can even be fixed with an update? I'm getting tired of messing with the cable just to play music in my car, and I don't want to have to buy extra accessories to get the job done.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Srambo217 said:
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They fixed it with ZV6. If you're already on ZV6 then I have no idea.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Has anyone tried the Z3 in a Sony N1BT car stereo? I just installed my stereo yesterday and I can't get the magnetic charger in the cradle to charge. I thought it connected for a second and then it stopped. It's really hard to get it in the right spot. I called Sony and they are getting back to me. Not sure if my phone is the problem or if its just a really poor cradle.
Same problem
weebnuts said:
Has anyone tried the Z3 in a Sony N1BT car stereo? I just installed my stereo yesterday and I can't get the magnetic charger in the cradle to charge. I thought it connected for a second and then it stopped. It's really hard to get it in the right spot. I called Sony and they are getting back to me. Not sure if my phone is the problem or if its just a really poor cradle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem. When you change the application it works again, and sometimes it remains connected. I think that there is a software problem, the device(s) are ok.
pere88 said:
I have the same problem. When you change the application it works again, and sometimes it remains connected. I think that there is a software problem, the device(s) are ok.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't get the charger to work at all.
Mine works pretty well. Tricky to get it lined up with a case on it, but easy otherwise. And it charges very quickly.
weebnuts said:
Has anyone tried the Z3 in a Sony N1BT car stereo? I just installed my stereo yesterday and I can't get the magnetic charger in the cradle to charge. I thought it connected for a second and then it stopped. It's really hard to get it in the right spot. I called Sony and they are getting back to me. Not sure if my phone is the problem or if its just a really poor cradle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anyone have an update on this? I have this head unit and and I just bought the new experia Z3. It connects to the magnet because I can feel the pull but it does not charge.
X3NU01 said:
Does anyone have an update on this? I have this head unit and and I just bought the new experia Z3. It connects to the magnet because I can feel the pull but it does not charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. In my case it's the same, it you want to try, when I switch to the radio, or phone, or Bluetooth audio, it charges 5 or 10 s, and stop charging (landscape view affected too). I don't know how notify Sony the problem, it's possible than a firmware update on the radio would resolve the problem.
Please, tell us every advance.
Excuse my bad English
I have the xsp-n1bt as well but i have no issues charging it. I dont use a case though because even with the tpu cruzerlite it didnt sit low enough to make contact and charge. You will feel a firm click and it will lock in place when the phone is connected to the magnetic port. With the case i would feel the magnet pull the connector on the radio up but not click and lock in.
At first i would have to play with it to get it to line up easily as the bottom of the phone (the side with the magnetic connector) has to be spaced out a little from the face of the radio.
I did add 2 (attached photo) of these low on the face of the radio and it made it much easier to effortlessly set the phone in the radio dock with one hand while driving. It keeps the phone from sitting too far back and not making connection.
I got it to work a couple times, Sony told me to clean the contacts. But it's still hard to get it in the right place
I have this issue. I can get it lined up and when turning the stereo on or off, it will charge for a few seconds then stop. If I leave the phone in place and turn the car on and off the behaviour is the same so obviously not a problem with the physical connection.
Annoying
Just to add more detail. I have found that if I change source (using App Remote) it will start charging for a second then stop. I can change between CD, Tuner, or a smartphone app and this behaviour will manifest.
Could it be something on the phone messing about with power? I'll experiment with my girlfriend's Z3 Compact and see if that is the same.
I found that if you place the phone to the right of the dock and slowly slide it to the middle and hear the click of the magnetic mechanism, it will start charging. It happens to work much better for me like that.
Tried my girlfriend's Z3 compact and that worked fine so it seems to be either the z3 model or something about my phone.
It's obviously not a problem with the positioning because it is charging intermittently (when changing source).
Does anyone work consistently? Put in on and if it starts charging, does it stay on?
3Shirts said:
Tried my girlfriend's Z3 compact and that worked fine so it seems to be either the z3 model or something about my phone.
It's obviously not a problem with the positioning because it is charging intermittently (when changing source).
Does anyone work consistently? Put in on and if it starts charging, does it stay on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, I'm experiencing exactly the same problem with my Z3 (D6603)
- Charges for 5 seconds, then stops charging
- Pressing [SOURCE] on either the app remote or Head Unit allows it to charge again for 5 seconds, then stops charging on it's own.
Phoned up Sony support and they asked me to try things that were just written in the manual, which I already tried anyway. They then referred me to Xperia support, but not looking great there either.
They did confirm the Z3 is fully compatible.
Not sure where to try next!
EDIT: Just tried Xperia support. They said I need to test the magnetic charger on something else. Don't fancy buying a dock just to test it!
Hello everyone, its my first post here I hope it helps, sorry for my poor English.
No doubt my N1BT is working because my old Z2 still does the job. I'm having the same troubles charging and fitting the Z3 on place. After tricky precision I can manage to see the thunder icon but just for 10s like everyone else.
Once I got a message how says something like.... the phone consumes more power than the power provided by the charger. Or similar. And the thunder icon went off. I never got that message again, but I know is the same behaviour.
Once I made it work for a long time and all was fully functional changing the USB preferences. From MTP to MSC.
But while I was messing with my phone I decided to get a non branded sony stock version. All went fine and I started with a fresh system. I just installed the app remote and all google and sony updates. So I went to the car to fit it in the N1BT and it showed the thunder icon for 10s and off.
Now knowing that the USB preferences can solve it ...... No this time for me.
I tried another sony stock version for my country and same results.
The point where I get the thunder off is when THROW inside app remote changes to the car audio device. In the walkman app I can see a flick in the screen previous to get disconnected there's a small cut in the audio but keeps working from battery.
I have another error. Using the Z3 placed correctly on N1BT and obviously not charging I can use it running from the battery. If I press "Voice button on the N1BT" the app remote crash and the thunder icon is on again. If you don't press "accept " in the report window the app remote won´t restart and during all this time the phone charges. Once the Z3 restart the app remote the thunder icon goes off again.
I did another weird test. I have a Sony NFC BT sound bar and the Sony dock charger and also another magnet usb cord I bought. My test was to confirm the consumption, so I played audio to the sound bar while I was using GPS with with open aps in the background. I was connecting the normal USB for charge from wall socket an from PC, the sony dock charger and my magnetic cord. The Z3 did the job with any complain about energy.
About VOICE, every time I press it, I get a crash in app remote. And make me think about something related to Google voice and recognition. The error comes with the rounded window with a microphone but it never finish to complete the window or show the header with the supposed walkman or contact header on top. And this is changing form one app to another forget about searching for a song.
I hope we can find a solution, thank you for your time and patience.
Just to add some more findings. I put the phone in the stereo but powered completely off and it charged correctly. Clearly this is a software issue on the phone.
---------- Post added at 11:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:46 AM ----------
flintoff3 said:
EDIT: Just tried Xperia support. They said I need to test the magnetic charger on something else. Don't fancy buying a dock just to test it!
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I wouldn't bother. You have the exact same problem as me and I have a desktop dock too which works fine so I very much doubt it's that.
Danny_MAD said:
Once I made it work for a long time and all was fully functional changing the USB preferences. From MTP to MSC.
But while I was messing with my phone I decided to get a non branded sony stock version. All went fine and I started with a fresh system. I just installed the app remote and all google and sony updates. So I went to the car to fit it in the N1BT and it showed the thunder icon for 10s and off.
Now knowing that the USB preferences can solve it ...... No this time for me.
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Hi, I tried the MTP to MSC thing but it made no difference for me.
Can I assume from your changing roms that you are rooted? If so can you try using titanium backup to uninstall Throw? (Back it, and probably your rom, up first!)
I suspect that is the culprit but as a non-root user I can't do anything with it.
3Shirts said:
Hi, I tried the MTP to MSC thing but it made no difference for me.
Can I assume from your changing roms that you are rooted? If so can you try using titanium backup to uninstall Throw? (Back it, and probably your rom, up first!)
I suspect that is the culprit but as a non-root user I can't do anything with it.
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Click to collapse
Good news: It's now working for me
Bad news: Not sure what bit made it work!
I'll list what I did so someone can perhaps replicate my results.
Z3 non-rooted - Android v4.4.4
1) Enabled Developer Options
- Enabled USB debugging
2) Connected Z3 in head unit whilst Z3 and Head Unit was OFF. Waited for it to start charging for about 30s.
-Turned on Z3 whilst connected.
3) Secured the Z3 into the Head Unit
Pressed THROW on the Z3 quick settings to connect rather than normal Bluetooth connect. Selected Sony Xperia Z3 (Sony Car Audio) from THROW options.
Now it works! The connection needs to be a bit better as it is quite loose, but I can work on that. I think the key for me was the THROW bit. I've disconnected/reconnected several times and it charges without disconnecting now.
Good luck - and let everyone know if it works for you or not.
So Bluetooth was off until you chose Throw?
3Shirts said:
So Bluetooth was off until you chose Throw?
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That's correct, I turned off Bluetooth and then selected THROW. It then turns on Bluetooth for you anyway.
After that, it doesn't seem to matter if Bluetooth is on or off.
I'll give it a try later. Thanks
HI all, I have one of the most interesting bluetooth headsets designed by Sony and I absolutely love using it with my D6708, the Sony Xperia Z3v for Verizon. I love being able to swap out the headphones with any other ones to use with the headset for wireless listening and being able to make and receive calls even without a mic on the headphones itself.
My question is, how easily does OLED display breaks? This morning I found out my display doesn't light up anything but the headset still functions. I can listen to my music and listen to whatever channel I have on the FM radio mode. Without the display though, I can't see who's calling, what song I'm listening to, or what channel I'm listening to. I bought the device back in September of last year through ebay, so what options do I have with this?
Not the same issue but I have the same headset and it refused to turn off. No matter how many times I turned it off it just started back up again, thankfully I bought it off Amazon and had a replacement 2 days later. Not quite sure how you can solve your issue, could just be one of those things where it just stops working. I'm not too fond of the SBH50, the MW600 I had before was much more reliable and the range was superior as well as the power? of it, I use mine a lot at work and the MW600 could penetrate through walls, the SBH50 just stops working and looses connection.
Hellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllo XDA peeps.
so ages ago we all got the marshmallow update and i must say, issues have been a real thing. I did consider ROMS but too risky as i use this phone daily for business's and such.
Anyway so one problem I can not find across the whole internet is the AUX cord problem, now when i drive, I plus in the cord and this notification appears saying "Headset is connected" then disappears, then repeats almost 8 times and lags my phone which after this, goes to normal and finally works. However!
I found that in lollipop I had never had this issue, I just plug in and it works perfectly. As well as this, I found its not a hardware issue, reason being is that other headphones work, every set of headphones i plug in work like a charm.
I have cleared data and cache from smart connect, even disabled it and nothing. Ive booted in safe mode, nothing.
I really just want this sorted as I love this phone, I do. Im not sure if this is a Marshmallow update bug or something but if any fix can be found or advised to me; Id love you forever, because i miss being able to just plug in and play and not waiting for this bug to simply calm itself from this spasm.
Lag is an issue, I have no clue why but it seems the newest update caused things to get hot, lose alot of battery quick and just plain ol' lag. Any fixes on this to is perfect, at the moment though I iwsh to get the AUX cord fixed as a priority to lag.
Anyway, thanks guys and hope to hear something soon! After all, this is a 007 phone, bond never had these issues
Are you sure its not the physical connection on your phone? May it happened to get damaged when you upgraded MM.
Headphones work fine for me. I recently got a rental car with no bluetooth and bought a cheapo stereo cord to hook to the car's speakers and I saw this occur. No lag though. The major annoyance was that goggle play music would stop thinking the headset was unplugged. After some dangerous debugging while driving, it seemed like one end of the chord was defective. When I swapped the problem went away.
eng3 said:
Are you sure its not the physical connection on your phone? May it happened to get damaged when you upgraded MM.
Headphones work fine for me. I recently got a rental car with no bluetooth and bought a cheapo stereo cord to hook to the car's speakers and I saw this occur. No lag though. The major annoyance was that goggle play music would stop thinking the headset was unplugged. After some dangerous debugging while driving, it seemed like one end of the chord was defective. When I swapped the problem went away.
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Click to collapse
Literally nothing hardware related, the cord in my car works fine with other devices. It's very weird and as I say, I did a short test and found that lollipop on this device actually creates no problem, I then updated tonight and found it happens again.
I think it's more software related and I hope android N is just a pure wave ?
I have the same issue.
So so many problems with this phone ?
I have the same problem as well. What I do is plug the jack, wait for it to finally recognize it and then launch the app I need