Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Given the Gear S w/ cradle only has 300mah + 300mah battery to charge, any cell phone charger with microUSB will work. Even a PC USB port should work. I didn't even bother take the original AC charger out of the box. Using my alarm clock's USB port for charging every day even when it is totally dead without problem. So, anything with a USB port will work. You don't need to buy the original AC adapter.
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
You guys got a charging cord and adapter?
BAD ASS NOTE 4 + BAD ASS GEAR S
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
alanshortt said:
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. USB chargers output the same voltage (5V) and varies in current output capability. The adapter won't/can't output more current than the other end (your cradle) requested for. The only time it won't work is if your device need more amperage for charging and the adapter can't supply that much, e.g. a lot of cell phones requires 1000+ ma of amperage for charging but a lot of generic USB chargers can only output 500ma. This results in not able to charge when battery is almost dead.
As mentioned above, the watch has a tiny battery and only requires very little current for charging.
The official AC adapter for watch is labeled 5V 700ma.
Foxbat thx to the answers!
psicolizzard said:
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wall wart for the Gear S says 5vdc at 0.7 amps. I have used other chargers though, computer usb comes to mind, just use a usb to micro usb cable.
I have a meter, and can check the pins for power on the cradle, if that would help.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using XDA Free mobile app
drjosephkim said:
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
chemman said:
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
calinormy said:
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As this thread helped me when I missed my cradle for charging, I uploaded a photo for clarification.
The pads at the back of the watch are counted 12345 from left to rigth when holding the watch with SAMSUNG bottom side and SIM card slot on top. See attached jpg.
To avoid electrical damage to the watch, I put some transparent tape over the pads first. Then I carefully scratched little holes through the tape for pad 2 and 5.
Then I was able to charge the Gear S just with holding red and black wires from an old cutted USB cable on these pads (black 2 and red 5).
Next step would be to find a clever way for fixing the tiny wires on these micro pad spots while charging.
I tried with a clothespin and it took ages until it finally stayed fixed. Had to take watch out of the wrist band for this.
Fixing with tape didn't work at all.
Chears, Ulle
You guys mention "mini USB" on the charger cable. My Gear Fit2 came with the cradle hard wired and USB plug in. Are there various charge cradle options for the Fit2?
Pins pictures.
Calinormy you saved my gear S thanks.
Related
I have read somewhere (been searching for hrs but can't find) that the charge current via the mains is higher than via USB. I have the Genuine Samsung car charger and that works fine even with GPS running but I would like to wire a charging cable into the car so the cables are hidden.
I have a 12v cigarette lighter to USB (2amp) but using a standard USB to micro USB cable it only charges at the lower rate and on long trips the S2 goes flat!!!
Is there a resistor between pins or pins to short to make the S2 believe it is on mains charging and thus charge at the higher current?
Thanks for any help you can give.
What you need is a charge-only cable (usb to micro usb). Most cables out there are data cables. You can get the charge-only cables at your local radio Shack or equivalent. These cables have two of the pins shorted to provide that extra current required.
Also, the charge current limit is coded as part of the kernel. You can flash Siyahkernel and it provides a script where you can change this limit. I've tried this myself but the charging rate didn't have any real improvement but it's supposed to. Ymmv
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
dikai_yang said:
Also, the charge current limit is coded as part of the kernel. You can flash Siyahkernel and it provides a script where you can change this limit. I've tried this myself but the charging rate didn't have any real improvement but it's supposed to. Ymmv
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I increased the usb charge current to 800mA and now my phone charges in 3 hours compared to 4 hours from a dead battery.
Btw this is with a regular data cable connected to the pc and not to the charger.
Thanks very much for the replies.
The charge-only cables don't seem to be in the UK for some reason?
Any ideas which pins to short?
Thanks
On the 4-pin rectangular USB connector, it's the two data pins in the middle of the connector (2 and 3). You want a resistance of 200 ohms or less. I would do the mod on the charger itself -- that way any USB cable will work with that charger, and you don't have to keep track of a charge-only cable.
Please use the Q&A Forum for questions Thanks
Moving to Q&A
That's great. I will solder the pins on the charger. Thanks very much.
This post is not meant to ask a question, but to answer some. Hopefully it will help someone. It might get lengthy, so if you're not into reading it all, scroll to the bottom for the cliff notes.
Like many others I've seen here and around the web, I was having trouble with my Note charging really slow. It only seemed to charge at a reasonable rate with the stock charger that shipped with it (~3 hours 0 to 100). I didn't expect much out of my PC USB ports because they are only 500mA max (as are most), but I have several 1A USB chargers that I used to use with my iphone without a noticeable problem. Being that they are 1A just as the samsung stock charger is, I was baffled as to why they would not charge at the same rate. I even tried my wife's ipad charger which is 2A and that did not make any difference, it was just as slow as my (non samsung) 1A chargers. It did not matter which cable I used, from the stock samsung one that shipped with the Note to a number of other ones I have.
I finally had had it and after searching all over and not finding any answers other than people's anecdotal stories about what works for them, and deciding that way too much of that was just placebo (ie people saying the ipad charger charged faster, and I know it does not). I cut one of my charger cables (USB type A male to micro USB male) open, and did a few experiments with my multimeter to determine the current levels for my various chargers under various scenarios.
I tested 4 different chargers. The black samsung charger that came with the phone, a white iphone one that is a cube like the samsung one, also 1A max, a stock 2A ipad charger, and an external 5000mAh USB charging battery pack that puts out 750mA max.
I had heard that the data+ and data- pins needed to be shorted on samsung phones in order to charge properly, so I tested the charging current with these pins shorted, with these pins connected straight through (as is a normal charging cable), and with these pins open (5V power and ground only).
Here are the results:
Black stock samsung charger (1A):
-Data lines connected straight through, which is essentially just a completely normal data/charge USB type A to USB micro cable = 960mA.
-Data lines not connected, open on both ends, only USB power 5V and ground connected = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that the data lines on the micro USB side (phone side) shorted = 960mA.
White iphone 1A charger:
-Data lines connected straight through (stock cable) = 440mA.
-Data lines open, not connected on either end = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that data lines on the micro USB side shorted = 900-910mA with phone screen on, 850mA with phone screen off. I assume that what might have been happening here is that the charge current was just going up when the phone was drawing more current because the screen was lit up. I don't think it was actually affecting charge speed, it was just maintaining the same charge but providing more power so that the screen could stay lit without affecting the charging rate. I don't know why it was doing this though because the stock samsung charger did not do this.
-iPad 2A charger:
-Data lines connected straight through (stock cable) = 440mA.
-Data lines open on both ends = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that data lines shorted on phone micro USB side = 860mA whent he screen was on, 780mA screen off. Note that I'm surprised this did not go up to the same as the samsung stock charger or even as high as the 1A iphone charger. I don't know why? It is a genuine apple iPad charger that claims 10W which is 2A at 5V. As far as why it might have different currents for screen off and on, read my comments above for the white iphone charger that did the same thing.
External 5000mAh battery USB charger (750mA max claimed output):
-Data lines connected straight through (stock cable) = 440mA.
-Data lines open on both ends = 440mA.
-*Modified cable* so that data lines shorted on phone micro USB side = 760mA phone screen on, 700mA phone screen off.
So that's all the data. As you can see, it is very important that the USB data+ and data- lines are shorted together in order to charge at a fast rate. The problem is that all normal usb data/charge cables, including the stock samsung cable that came with the Note, do not have these pins shorted, so it is up to the charger itself to short these pins if it is to put out its max current to charge the Note. Obviously the stock samsung charger has them shorted, because it charges at a fast rate with a normal cable. But none of my other chargers, including the iphone and ipad charger, have these pins shorted, so the only way these other chargers I have will charge at their max current capability is by using a modified cable (which I made) that shorts the data+ and data- pins. Using this modified cable allows me to use any charger, and charge at its max output. Note that if you also make a cable that has these pins shorted, don't mistake it for a normal cable and try to plug it in to a computer or anything that plans to use the data lines as this could potentially damage that device.
Unfortunately at this time I do not have any recommendations for cables to buy that have the data+ and data- pins shorted, but I can recommend buying one from amazon for $1.50 and doing it yourself if you're capable, but again, be careful not to use it for anything but charging from a "dumb" AC (or car) charger. I do not take responsibility for any damage you might do to your charger or other equipment!!!!
Also unfortunately, I do not have any recommendations for chargers which definitely have the data lines shorted in order to charge quickly. I have another charger or two that I can test, but don't have them with me now. I would imagine that all samsung chargers will have the appropriate pins shorted and will charge at their max capacity. I doubt the Note (without modifications) can charge any faster than ~960mA, though, so you're spinning your wheels using a 2A charger, and in the case of something like the iPad charger, at least the genuine apple one I have, with a normal cable, it actually does not charge even half as fast as the stock samsung charger, and even with a modified cable that shorts the data lines, it's still not as fast as the stock charger, although it's pretty close (probably wouldn't notice much difference in real usage unless you really measured your charge time). I'm hoping to order a few more chargers to test, in hopes of finding a cheap aftermarket one that we can use with our Notes that already has the pins shorted.
*Cliff notes* -- I physically measured the output current during charging of my SGH-I717 AT&T Note for a few different USB chargers I have, and discovered that all of them (that I personally have) except the stock samsung charger do not have the data+ and data- lines shorted, which means that you'll be charging at 440mA of current, regardless of the rating of your USB charger. This is less than half the current of the stock samsung charger, meaning it will take more than twice as long to charge your phone. In fact, if you're using you're phone during charging, there's a good chance that not only will it not charge, but it will actually drain the battery a little bit, because 440mA is barely enough to run the phone (depending on what you're doing). So while you think you're charging with the same charger because it's rated at 1A or even 2A, chances are you actually are only charging at 440mA, the same as from a USB computer port, and it is going to take a realllly long time to charge compared to your stock samsung charger. Bottom line, use the stock samsung charger until we can test a few different chargers and compile a list of ones that have the data lines shorted so that they can charge your Note at their full current capability.
Hopefully this is helpful to answer some of the questions about why the Note seems to be charging slow for some people and not for others. I imagine that there are some USB chargers out there that have the data lines shorted and others that do not. Until I can get my hands on a few more (I'm going to order a couple different ones from amazon) and test them, I don't have any recommendations for now other than to use your stock charger, and most likely any genuine samsung replacement charger rated at 1A or more (though it probably will not use more).
wow! Thanks for investigating this!
This wad good info bruh.....thanks for the time u took man.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Wow that is pure science....
As I'be been posting everywhere, fast chargers short the middle 2 pins. The phone sees this and determines it's a "wall charger". I always recommend the Motorola car charger as it's confirmed to have shorted data pins, or short them yourself with a dab of solder within the cable. Don't use it for data though. Won't hurt, but won't work!
Edit: fantastic work though, thanks for taking the time!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Thanks for the tip on the motorola charger having the pins shorted. Is this the one you're talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846
Here's my dilemma. I used the stock Samsung cable with a 2.1A rated adapter from TomTom (rapid charge) as it was said it might be the pin configuration and lost more charge than using the same adapter with a universal Belkin mini USB cable with a micro adapter. My issue is that while using the GPS and streaming music, the phone loses charge while on the charger!
This is not acceptable.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Yes. Thats the one they elude to. Ebay has them for $7.59 with free shipping.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Thanks for all that - very helpful. I was planning to try the iPad charger (mentioned it in another thread) but time got away from me. This is great information to have.
dakleenupman said:
Here's my dilemma. I used the stock Samsung cable with a 2.1A rated adapter from TomTom (rapid charge) as it was said it might be the pin configuration and lost more charge than using the same adapter with a universal Belkin mini USB cable with a micro adapter. My issue is that while using the GPS and streaming music, the phone loses charge while on the charger!
This is not acceptable.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stock cable does not have the data pins shorted, the actual AC wall adapter does.
Sent from my SAMSUNG Galaxy Note
Thanks pj_rage.
I'm pretty good electrically, but a bit less so with google. I searched, and likely didn't use the right string (happens pretty often with me). Got a diagram or a link to a diagram so I can see which two pins need shorting?
Makes more sense to me to go and modify all my car chargers rather than modify cables. I'll never use a car charger to transfer data to a computer, but might use a cable in a car in a pinch if I needed to.
So if I were to use the home adapter with stock cable hooked up to a power inverter While in my car, I should expect the 960mAh output then?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
dakleenupman said:
So if I were to use the home adapter with stock cable hooked up to a power inverter While in my car, I should expect the 960mAh output then?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That should work, but kinda overkill. It's less cumbersome to either modify a dedicated cable or the car charger itself. Just short circuit the two middle pins.
Thanks for the research OP. Btw are you on AVS?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
pj_rage said:
Thanks for the tip on the motorola charger having the pins shorted. Is this the one you're talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the one
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Think the problem is people are not allowing their phones to drain before placing back on charger. My first out of box battery was about 40% didn't charge it till it was about 5-7% left. 2nd day I charged it to 100% which took about 3.5 hrs and than let it drain to about 20% before I put it back on the charger. 3rd day let it drop to 15% battery and placed on charger again. I've had my phone for almost 4 days and so far no problems, battery last 18-20 hrs on avg. Just my input I guess.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
dakleenupman said:
So if I were to use the home adapter with stock cable hooked up to a power inverter While in my car, I should expect the 960mAh output then?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've also seen issues with other phones when charging off a inverters with random reboots, some charge, some don't etc.
Envy Diz said:
Think the problem is people are not allowing their phones to drain before placing back on charger. My first out of box battery was about 40% didn't charge it till it was about 5-7% left. 2nd day I charged it to 100% which took about 3.5 hrs and than let it drain to about 20% before I put it back on the charger. 3rd day let it drop to 15% battery and placed on charger again. I've had my phone for almost 4 days and so far no problems, battery last 18-20 hrs on avg. Just my input I guess.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lithium ion batteries don't work that way, and actually, they prefer short, fast charges. Android, on the other hand, seems to like a full cycle or two to calibrate its battery stats, but that might just be a myth.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
slow charge
I too have been troubled with poor battery life and slow charge. Here is what I have experienced:
I charge mine overnight for 9 hours. Every day I take the phone off the charger and I notice it is at 98%. Then I struggle to get through the day.
One day I switched phones in the evening, so the Note was left on the charger for 12 hours. When I took it off next morning, it said 100%. Low and behold... I was left with about 20% more at the end of a typical use day. Does this meen that the 2% extra charge makes that much difference?
I too have tried all of the different high amp chargers with all of the same results.
I guess I was just trying to understand with the OEM charger where the "shorting takes place.
nm3th said:
That should work, but kinda overkill. It's less cumbersome to either modify a dedicated cable or the car charger itself. Just short circuit the two middle pins.
Thanks for the research OP. Btw are you on AVS?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
over2land said:
Thanks pj_rage.
I'm pretty good electrically, but a bit less so with google. I searched, and likely didn't use the right string (happens pretty often with me). Got a diagram or a link to a diagram so I can see which two pins need shorting?
Makes more sense to me to go and modify all my car chargers rather than modify cables. I'll never use a car charger to transfer data to a computer, but might use a cable in a car in a pinch if I needed to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a link to a diagram (you can just Google USB pinout if you want it). I can try to find one later if you still need it. You want the two data lines shorted together. If you cut the cable in half as I did, you only need to short them on the phone side. The other side you can leave open if you want.
But you're absolutely right it would probably be a better idea to short the pins on the charger side. My issue is that my chargers are not easily opened. The cable on the other hand is a quick mod.
If I did it again I would just shave off some insulation from the cable to access the wires without cutting them, leave the power connected, and just cut and short the two data lines on the phone side and tape or heat shrink it up. Fwiw the power lines on my cable were red and black, black being ground, and the data lines were yellow and green. I believe this is standard but I should advise you that it would be prudent to beep it out to the connectors to be certain.
Regarding using an inverter and your home charger in your car, yes this would give you the best charge rate. Supposedly the linked Motorola charger has the pins shorted which would be a less cumbersome setup to provide the same or very similar charging rate. I've ordered one, so I'll report back.
And yeah I'm on AVS as well, same username.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA App
Hi,
I've recently bought on eBay a bullet-style car charger that claims to give 1-2 amps to two USB ports. I've checked middle pins on both ports - shorted, so it must do a fast mode.
However, with my Note running navigation and media player, I saw it not charging but slowly draining! I used before the charger from my old Dell Streak - it worked fine.
Hard way to check is to solder a converter USB male to female, and measure the current.
Is there an easy way, like opening some engineering menu, and checking the mode (slow/fast) and the current?
This may help.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=746089
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
Current widget will show the amperage during charge.
Tx Redneck said:
Current widget will show the amperage during charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, that was very helpful! Saved me trouble with soldering iron.
Although it has a bug and shows amp value 10 times more (like 5000 mA instead of 500), it does the job for me.
esokolov said:
Hi,
I've recently bought on eBay a bullet-style car charger that claims to give 1-2 amps to two USB ports. I've checked middle pins on both ports - shorted, so it must do a fast mode.
However, with my Note running navigation and media player, I saw it not charging but slowly draining! I used before the charger from my old Dell Streak - it worked fine.
Hard way to check is to solder a converter USB male to female, and measure the current.
Is there an easy way, like opening some engineering menu, and checking the mode (slow/fast) and the current?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find a solution for monitoring fast charging?
Should I only monitor the Voltage and Amps? In case, how must they be??
Ps: so Fast Charging is a matter of having a charger with middle pins shorted??
Tnx.
PIRATA! said:
Did you find a solution for monitoring fast charging?
Should I only monitor the Voltage and Amps? In case, how must they be??
Ps: so Fast Charging is a matter of having a charger with middle pins shorted??
Tnx.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I did! Sold Samsung and bought the Nexus 5.
On Nexus, the CurrentWidget app just does the job. It never works on Samsungs properly though.
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
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Click to collapse
you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
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Click to collapse
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
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Click to collapse
I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...
so got tired of not finding a fast charge mod so I mod the cable.
took a realy thin cheap USB cable and cut it in two. on the phone side chortsircut the data cables (white and grean) then connected the vcc+ and ground- normal.
the only reason I cut it in two was to be able to tread a shrink tube on the cable.
now I get fast charge from car and power pack and. and it works perfect.
now stop saying u need a special or expensive cable.
u need a knife and shrink tube and a heat gun (a cigaret lighter works)
and no u can't use this cable for datacynk only charge
maydayind said:
so got tired of not finding a fast charge mod so I mod the cable.
took a realy thin cheap USB cable and cut it in two. on the phone side chortsircut the data cables (white and grean) then connected the vcc+ and ground- normal.
the only reason I cut it in two was to be able to tread a shrink tube on the cable.
now I get fast charge from car and power pack and. and it works perfect.
now stop saying u need a special or expensive cable.
u need a knife and shrink tube and a heat gun (a cigaret lighter works)
and no u can't use this cable for datacynk only charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks man, I'm gonna do that.
Why blow data when you can just get a cheap 4$ cable from newegg with 22 awg power leads. I linked it in confirmed usb cable thread. You destroyed a cable and made it special, hence using a special one instead of standard. The base is pre shorted. You increased AWG technically. Get it? You made a charge only cable, when these are special and can be had cheap anywhere. Buy a nice 4$ standard one with the right power lead awg and you can use it for anything.
...or.. Crazy idea here. Get an Android charger?
Cutting up USB cables is a bad idea, especially shorting them out. The data pins are not supposed to be shorted, generally 200Ohms is expected.
They are suppose to be shorted with fast charge... the base normally does this on plug in on AC switch. A USB3 port also does this... all he did was make a charge only cable. With fast charge 2 though, you won't make it much past 1A this way, just like USB3. Why our stock cable has thick power lead AWG and the phone can reach 1.8A.
Steamer86 said:
They are suppose to be shorted with fast charge... the base normally does this on plug in on AC switch. A USB3 port also does this... all he did was make a charge only cable. With fast charge 2 though, you won't make it much past 1A this way, just like USB3. Why our stock cable has thick power lead AWG and the phone can reach 1.8A.
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Click to collapse
As I said, 200ohm, not shorted... Anyway.
unless the plugg that u connect the USB cable in i sent chortcircut it won't fast charge whatever cable u use. this is for making a charge cable to use with carcharger ore power packs. of u use a wallcharger it's 99% certain it is already chotend and u don't need this. but if u use the original cable (fastcharge) it won't fast charge in a power pack or car charger.
and I charge att same speed with this cable then original charger cable that came with the phone. measured 1.8a with this cable that's all my Powerpack can output. can probably go higher depending on how mutch the phone can use.
it's li-po so should be able to charge 0-100% in 20min but whill shorten battery life and don't think oer phones can handle it
I fast charge with 3 different cables. Again, it's the AWG. Facts don't lie. My power pack and car charger are pre shorted, so all good. If not pre shorted though, you are correct sir.
my wasn't that's why I made this. so no matter what cable used it won't fast charge. Som people also say u have to by a expensive cable with is bull####
if someone can provide a link with a preshortens cable... well then show it. unable to find any
It is legit. I did this with a car USB cable when I had my One X. It would only charge at USB rate (500ma) even though it was a 1A charger. Using navigation the battery would discharge faster than it charged. Tried various cables, and only got it to work by shorting the data pair. After that it charged AC at full 1A.
maydayind said:
my wasn't that's why I made this. so no matter what cable used it won't fast charge. Som people also say u have to by a expensive cable with is bull####
if someone can provide a link with a preshortens cable... well then show it. unable to find any
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Several available on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=usb+charging+only+cable
Not always. My car cigarette adapter is modded to short data pins. It fast charges all my other devices and even my tablets, but doesn't even charge my G2. It says its charging, no slow charging messages, but still depletes battery. Only way toncharge in my car is to use the second USB port that is unmodded, which slow charges. Annoying.
I still think there is a software bug limiting the charging speeds because you can get different speeds by plugging in the same cable mulitple times.
-sent from my LG G2 using XDA Premium 4
We aren't saying you are wrong, you are just doing something different. It's not about expensive, its about thickness for the combo usb cable. Just the awg. What your solution does is increase awg. They are called charge only cables (pre-post short). What people were searching for are COMBO cables. You are using/doing something different. Why titles are called "working USB" cables, not charge only. We already knew this. There is bugs. That was apparent in the voltage testing. Something in the kernel isn't playing right at all times. I have seen this on my car charger. With no change in conditions, I can sometimes charge 200mA's higher with a replug.
player911 said:
Not always. My car cigarette adapter is modded to short data pins. It fast charges all my other devices and even my tablets, but doesn't even charge my G2. It says its charging, no slow charging messages, but still depletes battery. Only way toncharge in my car is to use the second USB port that is unmodded, which slow charges. Annoying.
I still think there is a software bug limiting the charging speeds because you can get different speeds by plugging in the same cable mulitple times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The included home charger for the G2 is rated at 1.8A -- use anything smaller, and you'll see the pop up warning on the phone that charging will be slow and that you should use the "official" charger.
My guess -- if you can find a car charger that actually will put out as much as the phone wants to draw (e.g., 1.8A), and THEN use your shorted data lines, you'll see fast charging of the G2 in your car.
jonstrong said:
The included home charger for the G2 is rated at 1.8A -- use anything smaller, and you'll see the pop up warning on the phone that charging will be slow and that you should use the "official" charger.
My guess -- if you can find a car charger that actually will put out as much as the phone wants to draw (e.g., 1.8A), and THEN use your shorted data lines, you'll see fast charging of the G2 in your car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 3SIXT micro USB charger I have is rated to 1A not modded, just bog standard. When charging I checked the battery stats and it says AC charging. Now I don't know if it has the data pins pre-shorted, but it managed to boost my battery by 10% in under 20 minutes. The phone was idle, but that's not bad going for a 1A $10 charger.
seems like the moderators did a god job deleting som posts.
just want to say I'm a sorry for my bad manur/attitude/language.
keep the input comming
here is another thread about the topic on another device
* *http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2292373
maydayind said:
so got tired of not finding a fast charge mod so I mod the cable.
took a realy thin cheap USB cable and cut it in two. on the phone side chortsircut the data cables (white and grean) then connected the vcc+ and ground- normal.
the only reason I cut it in two was to be able to tread a shrink tube on the cable.
now I get fast charge from car and power pack and. and it works perfect.
now stop saying u need a special or expensive cable.
u need a knife and shrink tube and a heat gun (a cigaret lighter works)
and no u can't use this cable for datacynk only charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks man
jonstrong said:
The included home charger for the G2 is rated at 1.8A -- use anything smaller, and you'll see the pop up warning on the phone that charging will be slow and that you should use the "official" charger.
My guess -- if you can find a car charger that actually will put out as much as the phone wants to draw (e.g., 1.8A), and THEN use your shorted data lines, you'll see fast charging of the G2 in your car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not true have tried 3 other chargers 1.2 1.0 and 0.8 all say fastcharge (ac) with my modes cable. as long as it's over 500ma and with a cable with data pins shortend the slow charge warning is removed an the phone thinks it's charging from ac
charging my phone now with a Powerpack with 1a output and it says fastcharge (ac)
if I use the original cable it goes to slowcharging 500ma iv meshurd befor I put on the shrinking tube for isolation
and a car charger can output in theory 5-20a depending on your fuse in the car
the charging current is controlled by kernels in so phone. my old sensation u culd mod with a fastcharge Kernel so it never limited to 500ma always use max.
Samsung even has the ability to do a full charge in 30min but disabled in Kernel.
lg - g2 uses lipo battery's and culd actually be charged in less then 20min but if we do that u have to replace the battery every 6month at the best.
and lipo are extremely sensitive to over charge and the cells have to be charged with precision balans not to explode or swell.