Heyyyy guys, it's been a while now since my one x+ died on me...
Some part on the motherboard probably got fried as it won't charge.
Can anyone tell me what the pins of the battery are, like what's the positive and negative pole?
There are 6 pins, 2 red, 1 white, 1 green and 2 black.
Which one can I use to charge the battery and on the phone, what pins should I use to get the current flowing through the phone?
I know it's just the charging circuit as it powers up when the battery is charged, and no it doesn't smoke or get any warm at all when I plug it in, thus, there definitely is a defect.
I just want to use this phone like on my desk or something because I can't sell it at this state anyway and the phone I use atm is an s3 mini
Hi
Unfortunately I haven't the answer to your question, but tomorrow or friday i'll give my HOX battery to a my colleague that is an electrical engeneer to check the real capacity of battery...and i'll try to give you an answer.
I think that the general rules "RED is POSITIVE" and "BLACK is NEGATIVE" is always valid, but maybe the two red wires have a different voltage....
However i'll let you know soon.
Could you do me a favor? I need a photo of HOX+ battery! Could you take a photo of your and reply to my post here?? http://forum.xda-developers.com/htc-one-x2/help/hox-battery-replacement-photo-t3026505
Thanks!
K-Skulz said:
Hi
Unfortunately I haven't the answer to your question, but tomorrow or friday i'll give my HOX battery to a my colleague that is an electrical engeneer to check the real capacity of battery...and i'll try to give you an answer.
I think that the general rules "RED is POSITIVE" and "BLACK is NEGATIVE" is always valid, but maybe the two red wires have a different voltage....
However i'll let you know soon.
Could you do me a favor? I need a photo of HOX+ battery! Could you take a photo of your and reply to my post here?? http://forum.xda-developers.com/htc-one-x2/help/hox-battery-replacement-photo-t3026505
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure! I'll upload it once I'm home.
And I don't seem to be able to hook up my voltmeter to measure the voltage of the battery since the pins are a little... Well... Too small, obviously
And I found out one of the red pins on the phone side don't make the 'beep' sound when hooked up to my multimeter, when touching the GND...
I confirm that you can charge the battery using the either of two red wires (that are POSITIVE pole) and either of two black wires (that are NEGATIVE pole)...They have the same voltage (3.8v but it depends by the charge of battery...it can vary from about 2.75v at 0% and about 4.1v at 100%)
The other two wires (green and white) are probably the internal temperature sensor.
The problem is that if you want to manually charge the battery with a "standard" phone charger you have to calculate the charging time!!!
Because without the charging circuit board integrated in the phone there aren't any overvoltage and overcharge controls on the battery and it will be damaged if you charge it too much!!! (With risk of FIRE and EXPLOSION of the battery!!!)
I suggest you to buy a "smart" 3.7v Li-ion battery charger to manually charge your battery...it's a really cheap accessories and it's the safety and easy way to charge li-ion batteries.
K-Skulz said:
I confirm that you can charge the battery using the either of two red wires (that are POSITIVE pole) and either of two black wires (that are NEGATIVE pole)...They have the same voltage (3.8v but it depends by the charge of battery...it can vary from about 2.75v at 0% and about 4.1v at 100%)
The other two wires (green and white) are probably the internal temperature sensor.
The problem is that if you want to manually charge the battery with a "standard" phone charger you have to calculate the charging time!!!
Because without the charging circuit board integrated in the phone there aren't any overvoltage and overcharge controls on the battery and it will be damaged if you charge it too much!!! (With risk of FIRE and EXPLOSION of the battery!!!)
I suggest you to buy a "smart" 3.7v Li-ion battery charger to manually charge your battery...it's a really cheap accessories and it's the safety and easy way to charge li-ion batteries.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, and yeah, I aknowledge the consequences when it's done wrong.
That's why I asked, and I do have a "smart" charger, you let the pins of it touch the battery's charging pins and it stops charging when full. It should be around 3.7V, gotta check that later.
Related
as i tire of hunting for hours for a thread i post. here goes...
for some unknown reason my g4 8125 wont charge. it went dead on the charger and i was thinking that my wall charger had freaked out. well after about a day of sitting i hit the power button and the lights came on! well it was a built up charge so i know the phone didn't brick. i put it on the usb cable to see if the red light would come on and no such luck.
any ideas? r they known for suddenly ignoring the charger??? any help is great!
oh and i haven't modded anything but the carrier unlock.
*i found on ebay a few that were selling with the charger port "broken" ... this a common thing? it able to be fixed if so?
rubledub said:
as i tire of hunting for hours for a thread i post. here goes...
for some unknown reason my g4 8125 wont charge. it went dead on the charger and i was thinking that my wall charger had freaked out. well after about a day of sitting i hit the power button and the lights came on! well it was a built up charge so i know the phone didn't brick. i put it on the usb cable to see if the red light would come on and no such luck.
any ideas? r they known for suddenly ignoring the charger??? any help is great!
oh and i haven't modded anything but the carrier unlock.
*i found on ebay a few that were selling with the charger port "broken" ... this a common thing? it able to be fixed if so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had a similar issue a few months back. It happens that the wizard needs a minimum charge on the battery in order to being able to charge. It´s like the charging connection is made by internal software.
Probably you drained too much the battery to a point that it no longer can sustain the cellphone on enough time so it recognizes the charger and it starts charging.
The workaround would be to jumpstart the battery.
There´s a post on thiss matter but in order to give you a straigth answer, you will need to find a low voltage source (better of 5volts or less, DC). Many users have used the usb port on their pcs, cutting out a cable.
Then you will need to remove the battery from the phone, and find the (+) and (-) sing. Probably you will find that there are more than 2 power connections on the battery. I assumed that the + and + were the most outer ones and it worked for me.
Then you would need to "connect" the power source cables to the battery. Beware of the polarity. keep the cables there for about 5-8 minutes so the battery would have a charge on it.
I personally used as a power source, a small 4 AA NiM rechargeable battery pack that gave me 1.2 volts x 4, meaning 4.8 volts. So even when the battery is only 3.7volts, a 5 volts power supply as the USB port, would do the trick. Just be carefull not to overcharge the battery. If you feel that the battery is getting hot, then probably something went wrong and you must stop and recheck the polarity. After 5 minutes the battery shouldn´t heat up too much on a 5volts surge.
To use the USB you just need to cut out an old usb cable that you don´t use (from an old mouse, or anything similar. Find the black and the red cables (the green and white are data cables, so don´t mess with those). and use them to connect to the battery with your fingers.
Tell us how it went.
thanks as always you guys are like the boy scouts...always prepared!
at least i think that's their motto...isn't it? anyway thanks a million
Hey
As a possible solution to the low battery life of the G1, I bought a solar panel charger. (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=229254) To test it, I went and sat in the sun for a while, with a multimeter. When charging an old Nokia, which has a 3.7v battery, the Nokia's battery was drawing about 200mA. Not a lot, but enough to extend the life of the battery if you're out on a walk.
However, when I plugged the solar panel into the G1 (also a 3.7v battery), it only drew 10-20mA. Now, presumably this is due to some sort of charging circuit in the G1. I know some battery chargers have a diode in to prevent back-flow, and they can have a hefty voltage drop on them. Perhaps the G1 has something similar.
My solution to this would be to have a separate connector that will fit between the G1s battery and the phone to supply current directly to the phone/battery. If the phone is using less current than the solar panel provides, presumably the battery will then charge. Otherwise, the phone will run off the solar panel & battery combined, meaning the battery will last longer. I'd not use the panel when the battery is full, so it wouldn't overcharge, and I would put a 10 ohm resistor in to make sure the charging current is fairly low.
Forgetting about the difficulty of creating the connections, does anyone know anything about the manner in which the G1 handles charging that might be damaged by what I'm proposing?
Why do you post in Development section? Becareful when you created new thread in a sub forum!
Thread Move to Dream accessories.
The battery is irrelevant, it's what the charging-circuitry takes as input that matters. (And, regular lithium-cells usually run at 3.7v, so there's no need to check that (Unless it's some special phosphate-based cell, or something fancy))
The G1 takes 5v.
If i recall correctly, Android handles the power-consumption of the charging circuitry when booted. I think it could be regulated from debugfs... But this is dangerous.
(imfloflo: If the above is true, this is indeed Android development...)
For the battery to charge, you need to supply a higher voltage, and i don't know the limits of the voltage-regulation in the device. This could potentially overload it, rendering the device useless (Unless you have the ability to solder smd components, and the regulator is not part of the SoC).
Also, DO NOT try to charge a lithium-based battery without the charging circuitry, you will end up overcharging/overheating it, and that's NOT something you want to happen (If you don't cool it fast enough after this has happened, it will explode, taking the phone, and whatever else is near (Your hand for example) with it.).
Joushou said:
DO NOT try to charge a lithium-based battery without the charging circuitry, you will end up overcharging/overheating it, and that's NOT something you want to happen (If you don't cool it fast enough after this has happened, it will explode, taking the phone, and whatever else is near (Your hand for example) with it.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most Li-Ion batteries have a small control circuit built in.. So unless you take the battery apart and try to charge the individual cells, that shouldn't be a problem.
After I broke the usb socket on my wizard, I used to charge the battery with a plain usb cable chopped down the middle with the wires taped onto the battery terminals.. never blew my hand off once.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damaged or destroyed limbs resulting from attempting idiotic things like this.
goldenarmZ said:
Most Li-Ion batteries have a small control circuit built in.. So unless you take the battery apart and try to charge the individual cells, that shouldn't be a problem.
After I broke the usb socket on my wizard, I used to charge the battery with a plain usb cable chopped down the middle with the wires taped onto the battery terminals.. never blew my hand off once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, as dubious as those "clip" usb chargers are, I have not heard of anyone's Li-Ion or Li-Po cellphone battery violently venting as a result of charging past 4.1v. Generally with lithium-based cells, if they have been packaged into a battery then there is probably a basic protection circuit against overvolt, undervolt and shorts.
That said, I would still recommend charging through the mini-usb rather than trying to jury rig together some kind of interface to go between the battery and the contacts.
jashsu said:
Yeah, as dubious as those "clip" usb chargers are, I have not heard of anyone's Li-Ion or Li-Po cellphone battery violently venting as a result of charging past 4.1v. Generally with lithium-based cells, if they have been packaged into a battery then there is probably a basic protection circuit against overvolt, undervolt and shorts.
That said, I would still recommend charging through the mini-usb rather than trying to jury rig together some kind of interface to go between the battery and the contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there's usually protection circuitry built-in, but i'm not going to tell someone i don't know, and therefore don't trust the persons knowledge, to put these circuits to the test...
I've been charging Lithium Ion (Both organic solvent and solid polymer) from my lab-supply several times, without blowing them up, but i have seen what happens when it goes wrong (And it's much scarier to see it in real life, than watch the videos...), and therefore i won't tell someone i don't fully trust to charge a cell without a charger.
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This below charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessoriesMy first transformer Prime had charging issues, ( would not charge intermittently) and I found the OEM charger that ships with the prime to be sub-par.. So:
After checking out NUMEROUS threads, I just purchased the following charger and USB adapter from Radio Shack to Use with my Prime:
This particular model has been confirmed to work on the original Transformer-
Enercell AC to DC power adapter 12vdc 1.5A
Radio Shack Model # 273-358
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807944
used together with this USB adapter:
Model #273-227
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3643549
Does anyone know if the above Enercell 12V 1.5A charger should work on the Prime?
see post #104 here in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321&page=11
Also, can someone confirm the Tip polarity I should use? (I believe the prime uses Positive tip polarity just like the original transformer did?)
http://www.12volt-travel.com/knowledgebase/universal-adapter-tip-polarity/
Thanks for any feedback!
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This above charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessories
********
UPDATE 1/10/2012
This above charger and USB adapter WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
Charged fast... from 20percent to 100 percent in 2 hours!!!!!
I can now STOP using the OEM charger which is crap!
The charger doesn't even get barely warm while it charges... much better than OEM for me!
Admin: Please add this to the list of working prime accessories
I thought I read somewhere that fast charges aren't good for the long term viability of lithium-based batteries.
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_increase_the_runtime_of_your_wireless_device
Simple Guidelines to Prolong Lithium-ion Batteries
Do not discharge Li-ion too low; charge more often.
A random or partial charge is fine. Li-ion does not need a full charge.
Limit the time the battery resides at 4.20/cell (full charge), especially if warm.
Moderate the charge current to between 0.5C and 0.8C for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Avoid ultra-fast charging and discharging.
If the charger allows, lower the charge voltage limit to prolong battery life.
Keep the battery cool. Move it away from heat-generating environments. Avoid hot cars and windowsills.
High heat and full state-of-charge, not cycling, cause short battery life in laptops.
Remove battery from laptop when used on the power grid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I would avoid third-party chargers. Have had a lot of problems with them for laptops.
clankfu said:
Moderate the charge current to between 0.5C and 0.8C for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Avoid ultra-fast charging and discharging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Taking 2 hours to charge implies a 0.5C charge rate.
What's the rated voltage, current and wattage of the stock charger anyway?
Please note that the above charger won't work overseas. It's only got 110V.
webbrowser said:
Taking 2 hours to charge implies a 0.5C charge rate.
What's the rated voltage, current and wattage of the stock charger anyway?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock charger is rated 15 volts DC @ 1.2 Amps
This radio Shack charger That is working for me is rated 12volts DC @ 1.5Amps.
I read the Transformer specs required to chagre are 11V to 15V DC @ 1A to 2A max
This charger fits within these specs, so that is why it works pretty well. The TP and the charger itself do not get hot at all, so I don't think this is causing any issues with the battery. Does anyone think a slightly quicker charge time will harm the battery long term?
Li-Ion Batteries are sensitive to fast charging. While it is within specs, your long term battery life could be affected. There is probably a reason that Asus decided to stay at the very bottom end of the spec.
nslayden said:
Li-Ion Batteries are sensitive to fast charging. While it is within specs, your long term battery life could be affected. There is probably a reason that Asus decided to stay at the very bottom end of the spec.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done additional research due to above feed back in regard to Li-Ion's sensitivity with faster chargers.
Apparently, you are correct in regard to long term battery life concerns. I have only done 3 charges so far with the Radio Shack charger. I will let it drain down and switch over to the stock for now and just keep this other one as a backup. Is charging at 300MA more than OEM that much more of significant concern?
Better safe than sorry. Hopefully the few charges I have done did not cause any harm.... If the stock charger goes bad again though, I don't know if I would buy another one....
What was interesting is how hot the stock charger becomes in comparison to the radio shack model, which barely gets even warm. I always was a believer that more heat means less efficiency, so I'm somewhat confused, but I don't want to risk shortening the battery life, so I will go back to OEM stock charger for now, but reluctantly.
I wonder How these "alternative" chargers have effected the batteries for others with the original transformer?
That's an expensive charging setup... nearly $40 eek
mazjohn said:
I have done additional research due to above feed back in regard to Li-Ion's sensitivity with faster chargers.
Apparently, you are correct in regard to long term battery life concerns. I have only done 3 charges so far with the Radio Shack charger. I will let it drain down and switch over to the stock for now and just keep this other one as a backup. Is charging at 300MA more than OEM that much more of significant concern?
Better safe than sorry. Hopefully the few charges I have done did not cause any harm.... If the stock charger goes bad again though, I don't know if I would buy another one....
What was interesting is how hot the stock charger becomes in comparison to the radio shack model, which barely gets even warm. I always was a believer that more heat means less efficiency, so I'm somewhat confused, but I don't want to risk shortening the battery life, so I will go back to OEM stock charger for now, but reluctantly.
I wonder How these "alternative" chargers have effected the batteries for others with the original transformer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't worry if I were you. What you bought is just an adapter with a USB socket. The part which decides how to charge the battery is inside the tablet. The requirement for the adapter is to have the same voltage as the original one and at least as much current ( meaning 1.2A or more). The tablet will only take what it needs.
Be careful http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&gl=US
susko said:
Be careful http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&gl=US
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's always easy to scare people. It does say in the description of the movie that he did it by removing the protection circuit. They are designed with protection, so of course they will blow up without one.
Dude why so serious?
It was a joke thus a smiley was implemented. It is quite difficult to do that to a battery. Although I have seen some insane people in the RC hobby community destroy expensive cars and helicopter this way.
Lipo+ignorance=Hollywood style explosions
I saw the smile, don't worry. It is just that most of people, especially when they do not have the knowledge about something, tend to see the bad part (I'm also guilty of this, not in this domain though ).
So, it was not anything against you, the video is entertaining. I just wanted to put people at ease.
Charging Issues
It does not matter the type of rechargeable battery, any "quick charge" will reduce the battery life. I personally don't think 300mA is that much of a difference, but am sure the battery life would be reduced somewhat over time. Nor would I worry much from just 3 charges.
However I don't think we should have to shell out an additional $40 just because Asus can't build quality components. Mine quit charging consistently yesterday (week and a half). I guess we can put it in the same category as GPS...non professional and spotty at best.
EatMy45 said:
However I don't think we should have to shell out an additional $40 just because Asus can't build quality components. Mine quit charging consistently yesterday (week and a half). I guess we can put it in the same category as GPS...non professional and spotty at best.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't worry, ASUS will remove the charger from the SPECs and say it is no longer supported, problem solved...
Well i cant program worth a lick but i can still contribute
Facts:
In order for current tablets to charge at full current the data lines need to be lifted above 1v from ground (xoom1v,TP2.75v,Ipad2.2v/2.75v).
The 2007 high current charge standard for usb devices is simply to have the data lines shorted together at the charger socket. But no one conforms to standards.
So here is my universal charge system based off of a tmobile charger you can get for $7 shipped if you hunt.
http://www.t-mobile.com/shop/AddOns...4316-b85a-3de2fcaa1aa4&inCart=True&catCode=22
Im about 75% certain that this Mod will allow any device to charge at full current draw.
All you have to do is pop the top off of the tmobile charger and solder 2 50-100k 603 sized resistors to the pads shown. This will give you a voltage divider of 2.5v on the data lines, and they are preshorted together since the tmobile conforms to the 2007 standard. ive tested this on several tablets and they all draw full current. its also safe for all devices since the charger does not go above 5.3v and usb data lines are 0-5v anyway (below 200mv is a zero and above 3.3v is a one).
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
As you can see the left resistors make 50k to ground, and the slightly lower right resistors make 50k to 5v.
If there is more interest for this i can make a more detailed post
Woah
Somehow I found this after many hours of searching lol, I want this EXACT charger with the exact same mod you did, Is there any way I could buy it of from you or anything? I don't think I'm capable in doing this lol (I don't exactly have a soldering iron, nor resistors) Reply here or PM me
olmos.lalo said:
Somehow I found this after many hours of searching lol, I want this EXACT charger with the exact same mod you did, Is there any way I could buy it of from you or anything? I don't think I'm capable in doing this lol (I don't exactly have a soldering iron, nor resistors) Reply here or PM me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you find the charger, and pay for shipping to and from me(ohio), ill do the mod for free. The mod only takes a few min, and the resistors only cost a penny.
nightanole said:
If you find the charger, and pay for shipping to and from me(ohio), ill do the mod for free. The mod only takes a few min, and the resistors only cost a penny.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey I'd be extremely interested in doing this, but just to clarify the charger in question is this one http://www.all4cellular.com/product/t-mobile-dual-usb-wall-charger-w-micro-usb-cable.html ? Also, will this be able to charge up my TouchPad and my phone at the same time?
olmos.lalo said:
Hey I'd be extremely interested in doing this, but just to clarify the charger in question is this one http://www.all4cellular.com/product/t-mobile-dual-usb-wall-charger-w-micro-usb-cable.html ? Also, will this be able to charge up my TouchPad and my phone at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the one. Ya you can charge 2 things at the same time, the charger is rated at 3 amps total. Dead any tablet would only draw 2 amps, and thats only until they are at 25%, then they start drawing less and less till full. Pm me for more info.
nightanole said:
Thats the one. Ya you can charge 2 things at the same time, the charger is rated at 3 amps total. Dead any tablet would only draw 2 amps, and thats only until they are at 25%, then they start drawing less and less till full. Pm me for more info.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would this be able to help jump start a touchpad that had it's battery discharge to low?
dc211 said:
Would this be able to help jump start a touchpad that had it's battery discharge to low?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The TP cant tell the diff between my mod charger and its official wall charger. Normally to bring it back from the dead, you need to plug it into its official wall charger, it will trickle charge till 2%, then auto boot. You then have to un plug the charger (android bug) before it gets to the desktop, and then plug the charger back in after it gets to the desktop and connects to wifi and stuff. If you download "current widget" it can tell you how much its drawing from the charger. If you just plug it into the wall and come back the next day it will still be dead, becuase once it auto boots, it wont charge, then it will die again.
Its really dumb hp made mandatory boot when plugged in.
Can you please post some more theory about the charging voltages?
I found a 5V 2A charger but it only supplies 100ma to the touchpad...
Ok now that I went through your post with a bit more attention, you say that the data lines need to be lifted above 1V, so I guess I'll have to re-think my charger since it only has two wires, but it should be enough if I use a resistor from 5V to the Data line?
I've gotten rusty with my electronic skills...
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
You need to make a voltage bridge. So a resistor between 5v and the data lines, and the same value resistor between the data lines and ground. That puts 2.5v on the data lines, that causes most tablets to start sucking 2 amps. I would use 50k-100k resistors.
Yup, after adding the voltage divider, the Touchpad draws 2000mA.
Except while its plugged in my modified charger the touchscreen goes nuts. There is a slight tremble happening with the original charger, but this is way too drastic.
Any idea how to stabilize the voltage? I'm just taking a stab in the dark, but it seems to me that this is the culprit.
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
If you can, check your voltage unplugged, at 1.5-2 amps, and charged. Alot of chargers dont regulate. Another thing you can try is putting a capacitor on the chargers output as a filter, from ground to 5v. You could start off with .1uf and work your way up. Remember the charger isnt charging, its only job is to put out 5v constant.
Also check your usb cable. Ill let you do the math, but figure the voltage drop of a 12ft loop of 30 gauge at 2 amps. too thin of a wire and the TB might be seeing 5v, goes to charge, line bogs to 3v, it stops charging, line goes back to 5v...
My tablet works fine with wall charger but does not charge the battery. The battery remains at 0% at all time. The tablet used to work as it should in the first week. Then suddenly the battery goes flat 0% and refuse to charge. From posts in various forums, the cause could be loose battery connections or under performing wall charger.
I cracked open the tablet and all its innards seems to be buttoned down tight. No loose connections or loose soldering. The battery wires connecting to the board seems to be fine and fitted tightly.
I used a multimeter to test the DC wall charger. Specs of the wall charger are Output: 5V 3.0A Input: 100-240V 50/60Hz 0.5A. I am not sure how to read the meter but I thought it showed 4.8v instead of at least 5.0v? Could this be the reason why my battery won't charge?
Can anyone with experience give some thoughts? Many thanks.
Update: SOLVED.
Same / similar problem
HI ,
I noticed your post a weeks back and have been waiting for some one to post a solution.
I too have a malfunctioning Captain and have like you pulled it apart, installed new software and scanned the net for months hoping for a solution.
I purchased a new 5V3A charger but that is barely getting the battery icon on.
I have read somewhere that a min. of 12V3A is required to charge the battery. Could you confirm?
I guess the easiest thing is to ask if you could post your solution.
Any advice is welcome and appreciated.
Thanks..
dreamerman said:
My tablet works fine with wall charger but does not charge the battery. The battery remains at 0% at all time. The tablet used to work as it should in the first week. Then suddenly the battery goes flat 0% and refuse to charge. From posts in various forums, the cause could be loose battery connections or under performing wall charger.
I cracked open the tablet and all its innards seems to be buttoned down tight. No loose connections or loose soldering. The battery wires connecting to the board seems to be fine and fitted tightly.
I used a multimeter to test the DC wall charger. Specs of the wall charger are Output: 5V 3.0A Input: 100-240V 50/60Hz 0.5A. I am not sure how to read the meter but I thought it showed 4.8v instead of at least 5.0v? Could this be the reason why my battery won't charge?
Can anyone with experience give some thoughts? Many thanks.
Update: SOLVED.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jyubai said:
I guess the easiest thing is to ask if you could post your solution
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I posted the solution at slatedroid. I did not get any response from this forum so did not post the solution here. BTW, there is nothing wrong with my wall charger.
http://www.slatedroid.com/topic/52722-ainol-actions-7029-roms/page-30
thanks
thankyou for that..
I will try when I get home.
Thanks again..