Mod edit: As a violation of rule no. 5 of the forum rules THREAD CLOSED as duplicate of
Samsung Multimedia Dock - Pinout Guidance Required
Hello, So I have the following Samsung Multimedia Dock, which was working fine since a year or more. It was used pretty much regularly with Galaxy SIV (either with stock or extended battery ). I guess after prolong usage and atmosphere condition...
forum.xda-developers.com
Oswald Boelcke
Hello,
So I have the following Samsung Multimedia Dock, which was working fine since a year or more. It was used pretty much regularly with Galaxy SIV (either with stock or extended battery ). I guess after prolong usage and atmosphere condition the solder point on the micro USB connector internally got dry and got detached. Hence it stopped working.
Hence when opening it to have a look inside, I lost the sequence of 8 wires connected to the micro USB connector on both sides (4 on each side). The pins on the micro USB connector are marked numerically 1-8 , however I cannot see the same number on the main PCB, so I am at a loss to understand how to get them solded again , in which order and sequence.
It is I guess a 11 pin micro USB connector because the dock had HDMI, Audio Out, and USB in (OTG) connections and power charging all at the same time.
Case cracked open and the main PCB and micro USB connector are apart.
Close up of the PCB
PCB and microUSB
MicroUSB connector call it side A (4 small pin out number from 1-4)
MicroUSB connector call it side B (4 small pin out number from 5-8) (I was able to see which wires were connected on this side so I marked this side with a blue marker and did the same with the 4 wires loosely held on this side after detachment)
PCB wires close up. Total eight wires. Starting from right the order is Black->Yellow->Green->Red->Yellow->Black->Red->Green, each of the wire needs to go to a pin 1-8 on the micro USB connector.
I know there are no published schematics for this PCB and 11 pin Samsung connector, however I am relying on the electronic expertise of the gurus around to help and guide me.
Thanks for your guidance.
Related
First off I'd to say hello from Alaska,
Ok this may sound strange but does anybody out there know where i might find or have one made, I'm looking for a cable with 2 40 pin connectors on both ends, 1 male and the other female. This is for my TF201 and dock, I would use it so I don't have to take off the case to the Prime just plug in to the prime and to the dock..
Thank you all Stan
Cables to Go should be able to do this for you. I've had them make custom cables for me before. It likely won't be cheap, but they should be able to do it.
www.cablestogo.com
Just in case anyone was curious, I thought I would try to get lucky and see if a female-female USB adapter with a standard ASUS 40-pin cable on either end would work. However, it was only a novel attempt and the tablet does not recognize the dock as I had hoped.
I am sure Cables-to-Go could get something to work, but I agree that it will be quite expensive. It would be nice if there was a jumper cable accessory to accomplish this same concept since I am in the same position as the OP and typically carry the tablet in its own case and only use the dock when I have alot of typing to do.
On a side note, I did confirm that my Logitech Anywhere Mouse with the Unifying Receiver does work 100% with my tablet and Dock!....I just may be able to leave the laptop at the office yet!
Does anyone have a mapping of the pins and wires? I would like to try and "splice" two cables together to try and make a jumper cable but would need to make sure that I make the right connections. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think that's going to work for several reasons.
First and foremost, if use two TP USB cables as the souce of the parts, you'll end up with a "jumper" cable with male connectors at both ends. You need male to female, remember?
Secondarily (and almost as important) is the number of contacts on the USB end of the cable. USB has four conductors plus shield and nine conductors plus shield in USB 3. Taking a cursory glance at USB plug on my TP cable, that's all there is. I don't see any additional conductors.
Following this, it's EXCEEDINGLY unlikely that the cable has 40 wires (one for each pin on the Prime end) running the full length. If it did, where would they connect to on the USB plug? Kinda silly to include extra copper to go nowhere.
Instead, if you were to pry open the 40 pin male plug, you'll see that most the pins aren't connected to anything. They're not needed for the USB cable.
Sorry to say, this just isn't going to work.
If you do choose to clip one of your cables just to have a look-see, cut the cable somewhere in the middle. If you cut right up next to the USB plug, you won't have ample wire there to repair what you're about to break.
I am aware that you will need a female adapter to make a true "jumper" cable. However, there may be a way of jerry-rigging a connection to the dock if a female connector can't be found (I have yet to find a part online).
My question is more in regards to whether or not anyone had a schematic of which of the pins are connected to which of the respective USB pins so that I could determine the best way of making a connection....short of having a cable for the ASUS TF201 like this: iPhone Extension Cable
Hi folks,
I hope this helps someone out there. I didn't have a USB A female to USB micro A male On-The-Go (OTG) cable, they are rather rare. So I made my own. I have it plugged in right now and both my keyboard and mouse (Logitech K350) communicate to the bluetooth dongle, which is plugged into this cable, and into the Q and working fine.
This is how to make one:
Cut the female USB A female end off a USB extension cord
Cut the male USB micro A end off a USB micro extension cord (the micro A looks squarish, the micro B looks trapezoidal. Both will fit in the Q's receptacle. This should be possible to do with a micro B end too, but I didn't try it.
Solder the wires together, matching color to color. Tape up the wires so they don't touch.
Now you'll notice the "big" USB has four pins and the micro USB has five pins. And you soldered four wires. So what about that fifth pin? Open up the micro A connector. Most of them are fused shut but you can usually slit it on either side with a knife and open it like a clam shell. Find the fifth pin (it'll be the only one not connected to anything). Short that pin to the ground pin using a bit of wire or solder. You can figure out which one is the ground pin either by looking at the wire color (should be black) or consulting a micro USB pinout diagram.
Glue the clamshell back together again.
Plug in your keyboard and/or mouse (dongle or otherwise) and it should work! Does for me! Not only the basic keyboard/mouse functions but also many of the special keys, like the special "play" / "pause" / etc buttons at the top. Esc is back.
davidnhutch said:
Hi folks,
I hope this helps someone out there. I didn't have a USB A female to USB micro A male On-The-Go (OTG) cable, they are rather rare. So I made my own. I have it plugged in right now and both my keyboard and mouse (Logitech K350) communicate to the bluetooth dongle, which is plugged into this cable, and into the Q and working fine.
This is how to make one:
Cut the female USB A female end off a USB extension cord
Cut the male USB micro A end off a USB micro extension cord (the micro A looks squarish, the micro B looks trapezoidal. Both will fit in the Q's receptacle. This should be possible to do with a micro B end too, but I didn't try it.
Solder the wires together, matching color to color. Tape up the wires so they don't touch.
Now you'll notice the "big" USB has four pins and the micro USB has five pins. And you soldered four wires. So what about that fifth pin? Open up the micro A connector. Most of them are fused shut but you can usually slit it on either side with a knife and open it like a clam shell. Find the fifth pin (it'll be the only one not connected to anything). Short that pin to the ground pin using a bit of wire or solder. You can figure out which one is the ground pin either by looking at the wire color (should be black) or consulting a micro USB pinout diagram.
Glue the clamshell back together again.
Plug in your keyboard and/or mouse (dongle or otherwise) and it should work! Does for me! Not only the basic keyboard/mouse functions but also many of the special keys, like the special "play" / "pause" / etc buttons at the top. Esc is back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking for this? $2.50 per includes shipping on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005N55WHI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00
Well then...
Hi,
Does anyone has any idea why the micro-USB connectors which are used to connect a HDMI or VGA cable to the micro-USB port of the Samsung Galaxies are longer than let's say a data micro USB connector?
I've tried a micro-USB extension cable, and they don't work with these video-output connectors because they're too long. When I looked inside the connector I noticed that all the connection points are way down the connector, and that the upper part is just extra. So I've tried filing off the upper part. Now it charges the phone, but still no video output.
Thanks!
Never mind, just found an answer to my question
Apparently the dock / video out connectors are 11 pin micro USB connectors. The data and charging cable connectors are 5 pin.
Now to find an extension cable for that. I wonder if this excists.
It would be much easier to find HDMI/VGA extension cable rather then the 11 ping micro usb.
golalmo said:
It would be much easier to find HDMI/VGA extension cable rather then the 11 ping micro usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, but the problem is that I want to extend the dock connector so I can put my Note 3 next to my dock to put it in landscape.
I can confirm that the Lecco USB-A to USB-C cords are of good quality free from soldering defects etc.
My non-charging symptoms are that the phone starts to charge and then stops charging, The USB cord works fine for file transfer
End to end connectivity of the cable is fine, The USB-A end connectivity to the charger on the (+Ve, Gnd, D+ D-) is intact.
There is a inline Fuse which was intact
A IR1 designated diode or resistor ? in the USB-C end .. It was open circuit ? I will work up a diagram when my eyes recover
I cannot confirm the contacts that the USB-C makes with the phone BUT the fingers all look fine. !
Mine is marked with the "Le" logo on one side, so it's easy to remember the side which you mention about. I had no problems with the cable and I never cared about the side of USB-A that I plug in.
Still, a good point though.
valy_cta said:
Mine is marked with the "Le" logo on one side, so it's easy to remember the side which you mention about. I had no problems with the cable and I never cared about the side of USB-A that I plug in.
Still, a good point though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes mine has the logo as well, I concluded this possible cause for failure because its so easy to plug in reversed ? I will open the connector in the next few days to hopefully show where the failure occurs .
I've just compared the USB-A male from the OEM cable with another regular male port and I see that LeEco did a good job with it. The middle part is very thin and positioned very well. By plugging it into a female port and even reversing it, I haven't noticed any flexing of the middle part either way (I've watched it through the 2 small holes that keep the male port attached). There should be some movement, but I think it's too small to be noticed.
Anyhow, I'm looking forward to your disassembly of the connector.
valy_cta said:
I've just compared the USB-A male from the OEM cable with another regular male port and I see that LeEco did a good job with it. The middle part is very thin and positioned very well. By plugging it into a female port and even reversing it, I haven't noticed any flexing of the middle part either way (I've watched it through the 2 small holes that keep the male port attached). There should be some movement, but I think it's too small to be noticed.
Anyhow, I'm looking forward to your disassembly of the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scratch that theory ! Indeed the Lecco USB-A end is robust and NOT the problem ?! All wires to Pins test out ok.
I will need to investigate the USB-C end or the cable !
cheers
Thanks for the teardown.
I do agree that too many people were complaining about the cable that somehow it stopped charging, so there should be a weak point. Most of them reported failure within the first week or so, this makes me believe that it should be some bad soldering somewhere. It just needs few flexes and it's broken. I do suspect the junctions at the plugs either side.
Some safety precautions:
- Never remove the charger out of the socket by pulling the cable
- Never remove the cable out of the USB port (either side) by pulling the cable, pull it from the plug
- Whenever you are carrying the charger in a bag, remove the cable from the USB port
- When not in use, spin the cable to form a small coil of about 10cm in diameter (very subjective, the point is not to form an angle that might damage it; a 90 degree angle when caught between the drawers, etc)
PS: Was you cable broken or something?
valy_cta said:
Thanks for the teardown.
I do agree that too many people were complaining about the cable that somehow it stopped charging, so there should be a weak point. Most of them reported failure within the first week or so, this makes me believe that it should be some bad soldering somewhere. It just needs few flexes and it's broken. I do suspect the junctions at the plugs either side.
Some safety precautions:
- Never remove the charger out of the socket by pulling the cable
- Never remove the cable out of the USB port (either side) by pulling the cable, pull it from the plug
- Whenever you are carrying the charger in a bag, remove the cable from the USB port
- When not in use, spin the cable to form a small coil of about 10cm in diameter (very subjective, the point is not to form an angle that might damage it; a 90 degree angle when caught between the drawers, etc)
PS: Was you cable broken or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm that the soldering and the wire quality are top notch, End to end connectivity is good!
At the USB-C end there is a fuse inline with the +VE (Red wires) intact in my case, and a IR1 Zener diode (I think) , Or a resistor ?
Its open circuit ! (they normally go closed circuit ?) I have noticed sometimes plugging in the Power pack that the mains pins will give a little spark ?
So maybe that has blown the Diode ? IE Plugging in the powerpack with the cord attached might not be advisable ?
I have yet to work out the wiring .... of the IR1 diode / resistor ?
The only thing I cannot confirm is the contact made by the USB-C fingers onto the Phone connector..... I won't be doing any more.
Replacement cords are cheap
My cable is fine but I have a problem with my charger. It charges fine once, but having been disconnected (even midway through charging) it won't work again for at least a day. After about a day it generally works again, but again only one time. Very strange and annoying.
In Germany we have a couple of guys complaining about the Leeco OEM cable too. But if I remember correct these guys had a different kind of cable in their package.
USB-C to USB-C instead of the USB-A to USB-C variant.
That seems to be the case for people who had buying the phone from banggood with shipping from Europe direct.
Maybe there's another manufacturer of the cable with a bad soldering standard!?
My girlfriend and myself were both receiving our Max 2 with the USB-A to USB-C variant of the cable about nearly 5 Month ago and no issues so far!
USB-C to USB-C should be the way of the future for everything !
My cord had been working fine for 6 months, never unplugged from the charger, never rolled, never damaged.
It just went faulty after I had transferred files from my PC to the phone for a rom upgrade etc that the problem occurred.
Just coincidental ! ?
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.