How do I attach a new ribbon to the motherboard? - Sony Xperia Z Ultra

Tried to replace my broken ultra screen but damaged the main ribbon that connects to the motherboard. Have bought a new ribbon but not sure how i should attach it. Anyone know?
The original ribbon looked like it was just glued on.

Ukbondraider said:
Tried to replace my broken ultra screen but damaged the main ribbon that connects to the motherboard. Have bought a new ribbon but not sure how i should attach it. Anyone know?
The original ribbon looked like it was just glued on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Made by robot...to small for human eye and precision. It requires you to have a facility to have it mounted again or a solder oven if you are able to handle the parts with this kind of precision needed.
Toss it in the bin or sell it...you can buy a new device for less than the cost of attaching it/send for repair and get a new motherboard.
If you know some old school gaming console modder you might have some luck. Not many have these precise skills these days.

Ok thanks for the info. Do you know if there is a way to boot the phone without using the power button. It appears that the new screen works as when I plug in a charger the Sony logo on the screens turns on as too does the pic of the battery. I just cant get the power button to work. It looks like this maybe the area affected from the small damaged part of the ribbon.
If only I could boot it. Pity its not like an iphone that boots upon charging.

Ukbondraider said:
Ok thanks for the info. Do you know if there is a way to boot the phone without using the power button. It appears that the new screen works as when I plug in a charger the Sony logo on the screens turns on as too does the pic of the battery. I just cant get the power button to work. It looks like this maybe the area affected from the small damaged part of the ribbon.
If only I could boot it. Pity its not like an iphone that boots upon charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can get the volume button to work you can boot the phone with fastboot reboot

anisotropic adhisive film/tape
the adhisive that attaches the flex cable to pcb is anistropic adhisive film. its fairly easy to attach the cable but the materials is very expensive and hard to handle. I have replace my ZU flex cable using a strip of this film and a spatula soldering iron or t-type soldering iron(because its T shaped). clamp the board firmly, applied the ADF, pre-heat it to 50°c, align the flex and apply heat 150°c with 3 kilos of force for 25 seconds and your done. I got my ADF form work.

Ive spent more than I wanted to, to fix my Ultra. £50 for screen and £20 for other bits and bobs including new ribbon and back glass.
Just annoyed that the rubbish youtube videos showing how to replace the screen did not make clear how to remove the motherboard from the phone without damaging the ribbon.
Anyway I will see if anyone can glue the the new ribbon to the motherboard for me but will only pay around £10. Some of the folks I emailed want £20 to just to diagnose the issue which was already clearly stated to them. Therefore it looks like this may not happen.
Otyerwise I will wait for a broken Ultra to sell on ebay for around £10.
Love this phone for its size but have the Z3 and Z3 tablet as my two daily phones to keep me going till the Z5 premium.

Ukbondraider said:
Ive spent more than I wanted to, to fix my Ultra. £50 for screen and £20 for other bits and bobs including new ribbon and back glass.
Just annoyed that the rubbish youtube videos showing how to replace the screen did not make clear how to remove the motherboard from the phone without damaging the ribbon.
Anyway I will see if anyone can glue the the new ribbon to the motherboard for me but will only pay around £10. Some of the folks I emailed want £20 to just to diagnose the issue which was already clearly stated to them. Therefore it looks like this may not happen.
Otyerwise I will wait for a broken Ultra to sell on ebay for around £10.
Love this phone for its size but have the Z3 and Z3 tablet as my two daily phones to keep me going till the Z5 premium.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is possible to reuse the adhesive if the adhesive on the connectors are not lifted or removed.

Related

Some help for a newbie... [broken screen]

First of I would like to say thanks to this forum.
I try not to post any problems that have already been answered and this forum was a big help in getting my xda unlocked.
However I had only had my phone in working condition for 2 weeks, enough time to start to like it, when it fell and cracked.
I ordered a new glass screen (no bleeding ink) and had it overnighted. I sucessfully swapped out the broken scree, but in the process I screwed up the phone. So here is whats going on with it, if anyone can help me out it would be awesome.
When taking it apart I accidently broke 2 of the connectors for the ribbon cables on the back of the pcb. Now the phone wont turn on. The screen comes up but its just white and I cant tell if the os is loading.
Sorry for the long winded post
Thanks for the help
Chris
Also if this cant be fixed whats my best option, selling it broken or parting it out? How much could i get?
Re: Some help for a newbie... [borken screen]
beggy said:
When taking it apart I accidently broke 2 of the connectors for the ribbon cables on the back of the pcb. Now the phone wont turn on. The screen comes up but its just white and I cant tell if the os is loading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I guess it depends on how broken the connectors are, but this definitely doesn't sound good...
If you post a few close-up pictures, I'll tell you if there's any hope for fixing it.
Well..
One of those 3 connectors lead to the screen.
My wild guess would be that it's not porperly connected since it's borken.
In that case, I would have done one of two things:
1. Buy a connector through an electronics component vendor, then ,manually replace the broken one or have a electronics lab do it for me.
2. Solder the wires to the connector's base manually (or in a lab) to over-ride it. (I hope you understand what I mean).
At any case, my guess would be a broken connection somewhere in the connectors (one of the 3). This can probably be fixed that way or another.
BTW - I have a lot of dust between the glass and the screen. How do you remove the glass from the screen (it seems to be attached firmly somehow)??
To take the glass apart from the lcd, there are 4 metal tabs (2 at the top and 2 on the bottom) you can pry a thin flat-head screwdriver between the metal tabs (you will see what I am talking about, when you look closer). It will sound bad but its just the glue coming apart.
I tried to get the connectors but had no luck finding a match.
So I am going to part out the phone.
Ill be posting the ebay auctions for the lcd screen, the new glass piece, the motherboard, the battery/case and whatever misc accesories I have lying around.
Before I put all the parts on ebay, I figured I would give the people on here a crack at it. I will entertain all reasonable offers. Send me a PM.
Here is what I have for sale
Case in good condition w/ battery
Motherboard - in good condition just missing the two plastic pieces where the lcd connects.
Brand new glass touchscreen/digitizer
Lcd Screen
Also for sale the in-wall charger, the sync cradle with an extra 3 stylus (styli?).

[Q] Guide on Replacing the Digitizer

Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
keithgrobertson said:
Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
Or, this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbR56jSplRs
Broke my digitizer and did the job myself using the youtube guide above. Just used straight up superglue to glue digitizer to frame. I put a bunch on the top and bottom and very little on the sides.
Amazingly the phone worked when i put it back together... for a while until I screwed up one of the ribbons by opening it a bunch more times. Be extra careful with these, especially the volume/camera ribbon. You can bend it pretty easily trying to slide it back into its slot.
Good luck.
NB: Theres places that will do it for as little as $90 in case you don't want to take the risk.
http://www.ubreakifix.com/
Thanks for posting the youtube link. I can't even quote the post because it involves an external link. The video was vague on details and the quality is crap but it did the trick.
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from amazon and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Metacat said:
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from ebay and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replaced my digitizer, and had the EXACT same thing happen (not the light sensor but the line in the screen that doesnt respond to touch).
Get a new digitizer, but get it from someone else.
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Metacat said:
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. I sold it and let someone else deal with it. Didn't have the time to replace the digitizer again. Too much of a hassle.
I just replaced a digitizer on an atrix... i didnt put any adhesive on it because there was what i thought was adhesive strips on the digitizer... but there's strips on the screen that doesnt respond, i heated it n tried reattaching the digitizer a few times n sometimes the home and back button will work, sometimes they wont... any suggestions? could the lack of adhesive cause this?
Menu buttons problem
if menu buttons is freeze till I block and then unblock my phone is it digitizer problem ?
what do you mean by " block/unblock" ?
Sent from my HTC Desire CDMA using XDA
He means lock/unlock.
Go the ifixit route!
Just went through 3 digitizers in my repair, and wanted to share my experience/caveats
I bought one digitizer from All4Cellular for $25, and the others with a 20% discount a few days later, for $20.
I installed
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Got the idea to move the LCD screen from another RepairUniverse YouTube video and a previous post here, and tried installing the digitizer from the front face of the phone. It was still a delicate matter to bend the flex cable so that it fit through the slot, and then re-position the LCD and align the sticky strips of the digitizer on the LCD and casing. Part of the digitizer worked this time - a 1cm vertical strip on the left fowled any attempt to touch icons or use a keyboard, so I thought I had damaged things again (doh!).
Hoping third time was the charm, I completely disassembled the phone using the guide in the 'ifixit' link, since a digitizer/case assembly was suggested in another thread. The rear camera just needs to be raised above the casing so the thin plate can move upward, and the LCD pops out easily if the sides of the casing are delicately pulled. The digitizer can be positioned easily and with minimal bending/twisting of the flex cables.
When reconnecting everything the third time, I noticed that pressing down on the front camera / digitizer connection *with the rubber boot in place* didn't pass when pulling the connected assembly upward. So I pulled the rubber boot out of the way and snapped the camera / digitizer connection firmly, then re-inserted the boot. A loose connection might have been the culprit for the nonfunctioning part of the digitizer in the second test.
@MrSaba - I had the same issue with capacitive buttons - perhaps because the screen senses touch and disables those buttons. Replacing the digitizer solved the issue
trouble
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
drZeT said:
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
jjwatmyself said:
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The first one was with the red stripe indeed, from china. The one with a frame came from UK, "used but tested OK". original screen is gone - tore off flex cable while removing.
Well, update...
2 screens bought on eBay were BAD. Had to wait full month for authorised motorola service to change the digitizer. Must say though that both merchants on ebay refunded, no questions asked. Lessons learned - pay more, wait longer, never give up
DrJCFitz said:
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I noticed on their video was that their folded digitizer connector magically unseats itself during the disassembly transition. I had to pry mine off based purely on guesswork and think I might have broken the flip-chip that is stuck onto the frame with double-sided tape. Like yours, my touchscreen doesn't respond at all, despite there being no cable tears. I'm going to try and re-heat that flip chip and maybe get the connections to work again (doubtful).
To anyone else out there attempting this... when you go to remove the touchscreen, HEAT THE CONNECTOR so that you can gently pry it out!
Bad screen I got 3 before it worked its fine now if old one partially works new one doesn't screen is junk took mine apart several times to figure out screens were junk...guess they felt sorry for me give me my money back plus free working screen.from amazon
Also that lock clamp u mentioned first video I watched didn't show unlocking that I just pulled it out and pushed back in it was the 2 screen that I figured out it needed to be pryed loose by the white clamp but guess I didn't damage it..
Sent from my HTC One X+ using xda premium
I have just put in my second digitiser. The first was one had a red stripe, which was junk, the second on I bought had the plastic round the edge and the digitiser.
I put it in and it worked fine no dead spots at all. Then 12 hours in it started to stop working intermittently. Then 24 hours after that while on charge its dead again. I reflashed notattrix and still nothing. I've confirmed all the ribbon connectors are firmly in place and everything looks right.
Any ideas whats wrong?
thanks
Jonnym

TF201 DIY screen replacement

Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ

Help me fix flex cable !!!

MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
HEXAHN said:
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't fix this by yourself, unfortunately. It's glued on with some special adhesive, the contacts are to tiny to solder. The glue you buy on ebay (i assume), next problem is getting the flex cable on the right place and keep it their while glueing.....
You can look for a motherboard replacement, only last time i checked it's almost as expensive as a new phone.
Some manufacturers use small clamps for the flex cable, i assume glue is the trade off for this tiny device...
I've been to this hassle myself, i ended up on buying a new ultra
Has someone have any other suggestions? Have detached the main flex from the board. Had the main flex broken, wanted to fix, but know it's just disassembled. Had display problems before.
Can someone have some ideas? like those clamps you mentioned.
Bro your beating a dead horse, just buy a used one online
hot bar soldering attachment, anisotropic adhesive film/tape( apparently you can buy this for whole sale only. lucky for me the company I work with has spare trimmings of this), microscope or powerful magnifying glass and a lot of patience.
bump, i am in this boat, there must be a dozen lines on the cable, i cant imagine soldering it without shorting it out....
Why do they sell those toys that cannot be repaired by the way?
I'm in the same boat an all y'all being no help are no help so bump outta here already cuz everyone else in this boat looking for the answer doesn't wanna WASTE THEIR TIME on your helpless posts.
To recap we have the solder method which sounds like rubbish as flex cables melt.
Then there's that kind of adhesive glue and/or tape. Clamping is the reason phone companies profits dwindled until they switched to this new clampless method. I'm not gonna buy in bulk cuz I'm not about to start up a cell phone chop shop so maybe get a magnifying headset, some Walmart super glue that says mess free, and use a needle to dab the glue on in the right points but don't cover any contacts!
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
I also recently experienced, looking at google solution does not get the information.
Try YouTube? I'm sure it applies to other z models
jigzerx said:
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
lesterine said:
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can u explain me how u attached the flex cable back to its place. I didnt full understud this explanation. Have the same problem hoping u can help me.
using the soldering iron t shape tip, step 1 using the scraper to scrap away the glue then install the silicone strip to heat the flex cable on the board. hope this help.
Have same problem too! When I transferred the board with the power/volume button flex cable to a new housing, I accidentally lifted part of the flex cable causing my XZU C6833 not to boot up, no vibration and no screen image.
And can't seem to find any tutorial on how to properly attach the said cable onto the main board.
Will try lesterine's solution.

Xperia X Ultra Screen not working due to slight crack

Hey guys.. I know this z ultra thread is almost dead and i might not get help, but i am gonna give it a try anyway.
So the story is.. last year i kept my xperia z ultra in my laptop bag and after half an hour when i checked the screen had a little line(crack) in the middle of the screen from one end to the other.
The phone turns on. I can see the display but it doesnt recognise my touches. and it randomly keeps on launching apps and touching screen here and there.
I would like to ask what exactly went wrong here.
some of my friends had this phone and their's were working even after cracked screens.
Can i replace the screen? and is it worth spending on this phone now?
iamvashisht said:
Hey guys.. I know this z ultra thread is almost dead and i might not get help, but i am gonna give it a try anyway.
So the story is.. last year i kept my xperia z ultra in my laptop bag and after half an hour when i checked the screen had a little line(crack) in the middle of the screen from one end to the other.
The phone turns on. I can see the display but it doesnt recognise my touches. and it randomly keeps on launching apps and touching screen here and there.
I would like to ask what exactly went wrong here.
some of my friends had this phone and their's were working even after cracked screens.
Can i replace the screen? and is it worth spending on this phone now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same thing happen to me over 2 years ago. I finally got around to fixing it, because I was weary of bad LCD screens and I wanted to do it on the cheap.
I bought one from AliExpress and can confirm it is an OEM LCD panel. Only $36. Arrived in 3 weeks and it works like it did before, minus the waterproofing of course. In fact, this seller is all about OEM, good place for other devices as well.
Here is the link (I can't post links right now so it needs to be copied): goo.gl/et1vd6
I'd say it's worth it. It makes for a good backup phone and mini tablet for when you don't want to bring a tablet.
lilracerboi said:
I had the same thing happen to me over 2 years ago. I finally got around to fixing it, because I was weary of bad LCD screens and I wanted to do it on the cheap.
I bought one from AliExpress and can confirm it is an OEM LCD panel. Only $36. Arrived in 3 weeks and it works like it did before, minus the waterproofing of course. In fact, this seller is all about OEM, good place for other devices as well.
Here is the link (I can't post links right now so it needs to be copied): goo.gl/et1vd6
I'd say it's worth it. It makes for a good backup phone and mini tablet for when you don't want to bring a tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WOW that is cheap! To bad its not available anymore..
If I buy a new phone and this is no longer my primary phone I might change the screen and frame!
My chassis is cracked in half both at the sim slot due to its being so thin there and at the ear plug.
And my usb port is is not working cause of pin 1 that came loose that I soldered once but it came loose again so I ordered a new connector to be replaced completely.
The pins has started to move around due to wear in the plastic inside the connector so when I connect a usb cable it will tweak the pin back and forth until it breaks loose of the solder point.
And my earplug needs to be replaced due to 3.5mm plug comes out to easy but thats easy.
I have a question. How did you remove the battery?
I probably need to flip the motherboard upside down for the usb port that requires the battery to come out first.
I tried to break the glue underneath but the battery started to deform and bend just slightly and I'm worried the battery might burst into flames.
SUPERUSER said:
WOW that is cheap! To bad its not available anymore..
If I buy a new phone and this is no longer my primary phone I might change the screen and frame!
My chassis is cracked in half both at the sim slot due to its being so thin there and at the ear plug.
And my usb port is is not working cause of pin 1 that came loose that I soldered once but it came loose again so I ordered a new connector to be replaced completely.
The pins has started to move around due to wear in the plastic inside the connector so when I connect a usb cable it will tweak the pin back and forth until it breaks loose of the solder point.
And my earplug needs to be replaced due to 3.5mm plug comes out to easy but thats easy.
I have a question. How did you remove the battery?
I probably need to flip the motherboard upside down for the usb port that requires the battery to come out first.
I tried to break the glue underneath but the battery started to deform and bend just slightly and I'm worried the battery might burst into flames.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Man, your Ultra has gone through a lot!
Dang, didn't think they'd go out of stock. Pretty much the only online seller I trusted, because they compare OEM displays with fakes.
As for the battery, I don't remember how I got it out. I took it apart over a year ago when I bought a non-OEM display, so the adhesive was already loose. If you're in a situation where the screen is not working, you could just heat up the front to take the screen off and heat the body where the battery is, that way you're not putting heat directly on the battery.
Just be careful about the connector, especially if it's still plugged in.
SUPERUSER said:
WOW that is cheap! To bad its not available anymore..
I have a question. How did you remove the battery?
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's Z Ultra we are talking about - you unscrew 4 screws on each corner and pry battery from the right side with a plastic tool. It has two adhesive strips on both left and right side.
Though you don't need to take the battery out if you want to replace the screen, the connectors are at the bottom and accesible with just the metal cover removal.
By the way the reason why touch stops working the moment your screen cracks is because the capacitive layer is integrated into the glass, and when it breaks the connection is severed and no longer working. It is a shame, and the glass on this particular phone is very fragile, I suggest putting a tempered glass protector on it, so far mine holds up fine with it.
If you don't want to go thru hassle of repairing it and looking for a new device: the Z5 or XZ premium I think are best options of the sony side as the XA Ultra gives midrange experience at best.
On the same screen size id give S8+ or Note 8 a shot, they look promising.
IGnoTon said:
If it's Z Ultra we are talking about - you unscrew 4 screws on each corner and pry battery from the right side with a plastic tool. It has two adhesive strips on both left and right side.
Though you don't need to take the battery out if you want to replace the screen, the connectors are at the bottom and accesible with just the metal cover removal.
By the way the reason why touch stops working the moment your screen cracks is because the capacitive layer is integrated into the glass, and when it breaks the connection is severed and no longer working. It is a shame, and the glass on this particular phone is very fragile, I suggest putting a tempered glass protector on it, so far mine holds up fine with it.
If you don't want to go thru hassle of repairing it and looking for a new device: the Z5 or XZ premium I think are best options of the sony side as the XA Ultra gives midrange experience at best.
On the same screen size id give S8+ or Note 8 a shot, they look promising.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I had trouble locating where the glue strips are so I kind of felt my way where there was something sticky but didn't make much progress.
I got one corner out but then I gave up.
Since a few years I use tempered glass back and front. They are a lifesaver! Not very cheap but worth every penny.
I'm not sure if I'm going to take my phone apart for the tenth time or so..its very fiddly to solder this tiny usb connector.
Atm i'm using the magnetic cable and a phone case so it stays in place but I'm working on a "workaround" with my old battery case with two 18awg cables soldered to the dock pins (cause I hit current limit with thinner awg) and ordered a dip to micro usb board to solder these cables onto.
So the case only contains a strait path from the usb port to the dock connector on the battery case.
The idea is If the port brakes I ware out the dip board instead of the internal usb port when charging.
Easy maintance and low cost of replacement parts. Ten dip boards for 1 usd vs 2 usd for three internal usb ports.
And I don't have to worry about the magnetic dock cable coming loose all the time.
I started to look for a new device a month ago. Its showing its age.
I'll continue writing in the other thread..so we don't go too off topic.
Fck
Sadly an extreme issue with Sony phones for many years. Along with the dreaded sudden death that effects so many models its more widespread then LG bootloop and Apple bendgate combined.... And somehow denied as a defect by Sony and unknown and disbelieve by many....
Both issues I think however are rectified since 2017 I believe though.... Finally

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