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Hello all.
While I was taking my HD2 apart to replace a cracked screen (glass digitizer) I accidentally broke the connector off one of the wires. The wire is black and a few inches long with a silver and round press on connector on each end. It attaches to the board that houses the vibrator motor and runs down the right side of the phone (if you were looking at it face down and partially disassembled).
Unfortunately, I lost the metal piece that broke off the wire (the thing is tiny!), so I can't just solder it back on. Any idea on where I can buy a replacement? I've spent about 6 hours today on ebay and google to no avail. Searching for "HD2 black wire" and anything similar is hardly efficient, but that's all I know about it.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
Good question, I think I damaged the cable to the volume buttons so it would be cool if someone has an adress where we can get spare parts except LCD and Digitizer..
this guy on ebay seems to be selling an HD2 in parts. you might find what you need here:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Right-Click-Enterprises/_i.html?_nkw=hd2&submit=Search&_sid=131407386
Thanks, I sent that guy a message and hopefully it'll work out.
Anyone else have a source?
connector of my hd2 is also broken HTC says that the mainboard must be change and I have to pay € 230 because that is my responsibility
I think you have damaged your coaxial cable connector for wifi and bluetooth. Google will help you perhaps.
I believe that my wifi/bluetooth cable is broken, as I have no wifi or bluetooth signal since dropping my phone as reported in a previous post of mine. Can anybody advise me on the difficulty of undertaking this repair myself, does it involve complete disassembly of phone, any soldering etc. If this is the case I don't feel confident enough to do this so does anybody know of someone who does this sort of repair, I have found the cable on e bay for £7 and it looks like it has push on connectors ?
if the connectors on the boards are not broken then all you need is the coaxial cable with connectors on the two end. you need not disassemble the whole set, just open the back cover, connect one end of the cable to mother board and other end to the rigid flex board and that's it.
WiFi and Bluetooth not working
raincybercafe said:
if the connectors on the boards are not broken then all you need is the coaxial cable with connectors on the two end. you need not disassemble the whole set, just open the back cover, connect one end of the cable to mother board and other end to the rigid flex board and that's it.
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Click to collapse
Do you think that this is my problem as since I dropped my HD2 I have no wifi (unless sat ontop of router) or bluetooth or fm radio, is it easy to get to the coax cable by removing back cover, whereabouts is it ?
raincybercafe said:
if the connectors on the boards are not broken then all you need is the coaxial cable with connectors on the two end. you need not disassemble the whole set, just open the back cover, connect one end of the cable to mother board and other end to the rigid flex board and that's it.[/QUOTE
Fixed it, opened up phone and spotted that at one end of the black wire the connector was not pushed onto the motherboard securely, I pushed it home and hey presto, wifi and Bluetooth now working, phew, Thanks for your help !
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Hello All,
All of a sudden, the plug wasnt connecting into the port like it always did and after i looked online, I seen that it happened quite a few times to others. It simply will not charge now. its been dead for a week and iv been contemplating what to do so i figured is take it here before i make the final decision. If anyone could give me some advice I greatly appreciate it.
It seems there are a few options, call viewsonic and try to get them to semd me a new one since I got it in Feb but im rooted so thats out, plus I dont want the hassle. Take it apart and try to re-soder(sp) it back on to the mother board- although I hear it is somewhat easy, but I could never do it.
SO my last possible option from what iv read online, is to buy the Malata Zpad/Gtab dock. From how I understand it, I will set my gtab in the dock and it will charge, but I have a few questions/issues with that.
1) I heard it doesnt come with a power cord. Is this true? Do i need to use the cord that my gtab came with and will it work to power this dock?
2) If this dock will indeed charge my gtab, and fully fix my issue, where is the best place to buy it/fastest shipping? The only ones Ive found are around $50 with free shipping(which im good with), are shipping from China and take up to a month to finally receive.
Again I have not been able to charge my gtab for a week, and need to find an alternative way, due to a faulty Ac port, which iv found many others online have the same issues.
please community, any would be a huge help. thank you all for taking the time.
bump
Any replies would be very helpful, thanks
The charger that comes with your gTablet works with the dock. The dock doesn't come with a charging cable. Just switch the cable to the dock and you're good to go. It'll start charging as soon as you dock it.
About two weeks ago, electroniccrap.com had them in stock. Yes, it's around $50. I actually got mine through them (ordered via Amazon). It was sent priority mail, so it arrived in less than a week.
I had the same problem and I open the tablet and soldered the AC port again back to the board. And it has been working fine for the last couple of months.
Re-soldering the connector shouldn't be a problem for an experienced person with decent tools. Ask around among your friends, neighbors, acquaintances -- surely someone can do it.
You might stop in at some local computer stores that do in-store repairs -- look for a technician with gray (or very little) hair, he'll probably be excited about the prospect of actually using his old soldering iron again, just like 'back in the day'!
Right after I got my G Tab, it fell off the desk and broke the charge socket in the unit. I figured out how to open the unit up and found the metal strap had been pulled lose and also the solder connections [I think there were four (4) had been pulled lose. The metal strap wouldn't hold the socket down on the board so I bought a tube of the new Locktie GEL Super Glue. I carefully added some drops of that to hold it to the board while I did the solder job. It has worked fine now for over a year thanks to the super gel glue.
We have tile floors in our home and shortly after fixing the socket, I again dropped it from about waist high, the thing bounced back up and I caught it in mid air. Other than a little scratch where it hit the tile the tablet has worked just fine. TRY THAT WITH AN IPAD AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS. These G Tabs are really rugged as the above demonstrates. It was also interesting to see the inside of the unit. Looks pretty simple. Hope this helps you repair yours.
Oh! another imprtant thing to remember. Before you start to pop the back off, on each corner there are little plug covers, when you pop those out there are Four (4) screws at each corner. Make that your first step to remove them first.
OK so I have a Viewsonic Gtablet. It broke this weekend. Well the charging port broke, the little pin in the middle of the port where the AC adapter blogs is loose, it is still in there but even careful cord placement will not charge it. I have just enough battery left to wipe it clean. But I was going to try to repair it.
So one, where to find decent instructions to open it up. I figure a charging port is an easy fix and I am no stranger to a soldering iron. Secondly I was going to sell it as I just ordered a new tablet. So would anyone be interested in this for parts or repair themselves. I was going to sell it before it broke for like $120 OBO. Can't do that now.
It is right now I wish they added USB charging to the device. At least I would have a backup plan...
Ken
Get a dock - 50 bucks, problem solved.
Sent from my Droid using xda app-developers app
devilock76 said:
OK so I have a Viewsonic Gtablet. It broke this weekend. Well the charging port broke, the little pin in the middle of the port where the AC adapter blogs is loose, it is still in there but even careful cord placement will not charge it. I have just enough battery left to wipe it clean. But I was going to try to repair it.
So one, where to find decent instructions to open it up. I figure a charging port is an easy fix and I am no stranger to a soldering iron. Secondly I was going to sell it as I just ordered a new tablet. So would anyone be interested in this for parts or repair themselves. I was going to sell it before it broke for like $120 OBO. Can't do that now.
It is right now I wish they added USB charging to the device. At least I would have a backup plan...
Ken
Click to expand...
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It is easy to pop the cover off the back of the Gtab. Here is a link to a video on how to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9M7lxllGOyc
A google search will also direct you to another site where the topic has been discussed.
Same thing happened to me: knocked it off a table while charging
Anyway, after looking into fixing the barrel connector jack I decided that it was going to be hard enough finding the part - much less getting it properly soldered onto the board, so I went a different route:
After finding the pinouts for the docking connector on the web at [*** see Note #1 ***] I went to [*** see Note #2 ***] and bought 2 connectors (in case I messed one up - the pins ARE pretty small).
I then soldered 2 wires to pins 26 (g) and 27 (+12) of a connector and cut the barrel plug off my charger and soldered the wires to the cable.
Works great.
Hope this isn't too late, but I figure in any case it might be helpful to someone in the future.
-jim
NOTES: Forum rules prhibit me from posting links, so here's how a human can find the places I would have listed
Note#1: pinouts
Google "rootzwiki Viewsonic Gtablet Dock Pins Discovered And Listed"
Note #2: The Kineteka eStore
Google "kineteka viewsonic gtab connectors"
I bought SKU# GTAB-DOCK-M-1 but the breakout board looked like an option as well
Before I begin, if there is already a thread outlining this particular problem, I apologize in advance.
Yesterday my Truesmart was in the charging cradle sitting on my desk, not realizing it, I accidentally opened a draw which pulled on the USB cable, dragging my Truesmart off of the desk and onto the floor. My truesmart fell about 2 feet and is fine, but the charging cradle will no longer charge it. I would assume that something broke in the cradle when it fell, which justifies the pathetic quality of it, although there is no visual damage on the cradle and when shaken nothing rattles around inside of the cradle.
My question is what should I do now? I am almost certain that it is the cradle that is the problem and not the Truesmart or the USB as the watch will still turn on and the USB will charge other devices. I have tried different power sources and different USBs and I only have one cradle. Is there anything I should troubleshoot in order to try and get the cradle working? Or is is possible that the problem is with the watch?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The spring contacts in the cradle may have gotten smushed in a bit by the impact. Try prying them up gently with like a needle.
Otherwise, the solders connecting the microUSB connector inside the cradle might have failed. They have been reported to be of poor quality on another owner's cradle with cold solders. Try resoldering them if probing them shows them not good connections anymore.
Thirdly, maybe your USB cable itself was damaged in the drop. Test it too.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I tried what you suggested with the needle and it didn't make any difference, they seem to be at the right position anyway.
I have a feeling it might be the solders, as it is possible that the sudden shock of the microUSB inside of the port caused something to break. Unfortunately I do not have any knowledge of soldering nor the equipment to do it. I wouldn't know how to open up the cradle without breaking it anyway.
I already tested the USB cable, it charges anything else, and I have tried other USBs with the Truesmart to make sure that it is infact the cradle.
I have sent Magan (may or may not have spelt her name right) two emails and have received no response.
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
I've been thinking of replacing the spring contacts with actual pogo pins. It's silly that the charger doesn't utilize them to begin with.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
Asking omate for another cradle is useless. Omate is focusing on shipping units not cradles. I know this because my cradle stopped working also. The solder on the female USB plug had failed. I took it into a local electronic repair shop and they resoldered a new plug on. They also asked me what doll or store I pitched the charger at.
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I am aware but I figured it was worth a shot since my order was missing a keychain that I was told would ship "soon".
I might look into taking it into a shop, how much did it cost you to do that? And I didn't understand your last sentence.
He mistyped "dollar store".
Apparently they have such cheap budget shops up in Canada too. I get my colored USB cables from them, they say, " Made in China" on them and generally last a couple of weeks.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
rhineymac said:
Oops yes I ment dollar store. It didn't cost me much. $10 but the guy told me that it wouldn't last long, which it didn't, it stopped charging my ts today. He told me that its cheap, pure and simple. I was suppose to receive a spare that I paid for. When I asked about it I was told they won't ship it until after all KS and preorders were shipped. Omates way of telling me that I'm SOL
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I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
SkyHawkTech said:
Have you had the back of the watch off? If so loosen all 4 screws then tighten the 2 where the charge pins are first - then tighten the other end, where the buttons and camera is, last. I had an issue where the watch would not charge after reinstalling the back. I think the internal contact pins barley contact the flexible plastic copper pads. I originally crisscrossed tightened the screws and it wouldn't charge. If I have to install the back cover again I will most likely add a thin layer of something underneath the cable pad to help close the gap and provide a more solid contact for the internal pins. I could visibly see where there was maybe 2 out of the 4 pins making adequate contact.
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Click to collapse
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
Agent. said:
I realized you meant dollar store shortly after posting lol, unfortunately I have even seen nicer chargers at the dollar store. $10 isn't bad but I guess at that price it makes sense to get a new charger if possible. I love how I am fortunate to have a semi-working watch but can't even use it because I don't have a working charger. Thanks for all of your help Omate -.-
I had the back off of the watch once, after putting it back on it worked fine up until I dropped it. The watch will turn on, it just won't charge. I will try your suggestion anyway when I have my watch around though. The assembly of the watch is disgustingly poor, there is what looks like dried glue seeping out of the SIM slot of my watch. Very lucky to have no issues with buttons or pin contact and etc.
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the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
rhineymac said:
the problem ive had with the charger is the female usb port. its very loose. i wonder if we will ever see the xtra things we paid for, xtra chargers, tshirts sd cards. its bad enough that the watch is a mess, but to have a propriatiery charger is just icing on the cake. theres not way of fixing it. well there is,but it only lasted a week. the guy who fixed mine laughed at me and told me you get what u pay for. This is only partly true, the charger was $5 but isnt worth $1
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Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure mine is the female USB port too, as my watch was plugged in when it fell so I assume the shock of the male USB caused it to break. Your guess is as good as mine as to if they ever plan on actually fulfilling their promises, they have done a pretty crummy job thus far. The charger is absolute junk, at least if we had the charging cable they initially promised we might be able to work with it a bit more.
trent999 said:
You could make a charger with a dollar store USB charging cable you cut up to expose the +5 and gnd wires, then tape them to the right pins on the back of the watch, carefully.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
That isn't a bad idea for a temporary fix but the fact that it even comes down to doing something like that is absurd in my opinion, the charger should have been done and ready while they were dealing with all of the other BS issues.
Well, remember that for most owners the charging cradle they received works fine. It is not that poorly designed - mostly failures reported have been due to shoddy assembly. Similarly careless assembly has been reported on the watch itself in various areas.
I got my extra charger I ordered via Kickstarter, included in the package, but have never tested it nor needed to. I also figured out a way to charge the spare battery with an Anker universal charger, just in case. That charger came free with a couple of VGNexus batteries I bought from Amazon.
You might have better luck with the USB port repair staying fixed if you support its attachment to the board, such as it is, with an application of SuperGlue prior to resoldering the connections.
Holding a cable connector in place via only the contact solders would always be a bad design though.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Hi All,
I have a Nokia 7.1 that stopped charging. I cleaned out the charge port and tried different cables and adapters but nothing worked. I've since come to find out that it's a common enough problem that lots of people post about it on Nokia's support forum with no other option other than taking it to a service center. I'm in the USA and there's not a single service center in my state so I decided to try and replace the daughter board myself. I've done this kind of thing before on other phones, my Nexus 4 was a frankenstein's monster by the time I was done with it.
My problem is I can't find a reliable source for a quality part. There's tons of replacements on amazon, ebay, aliexpress and other random sites but all the ones I've read had issues for connectivity of cell service or wifi. Does anyone know where I can source a new daughter board for this phone?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
I went through the same issue.
Bought another type c charging port on Amazon, it still works.
Awesome! Thanks for the reply. Did you go with one of the ~$10 ones or one of the ~$20 ones?
My 7.1 developed the same problem. What is the root cause? Is it mechanical problem of the connector pins worn out/oxidized? It does seem to be a mechanical problem since I can still wiggle the cable to make it charge for a while. What puzzles me is that the USB-C has inherent redundancy with 4 power and 4 ground pins that it should not easily fail. I have a phone with the old micro-USB and the charging still works flawlessly.
lejaune said:
My 7.1 developed the same problem. What is the root cause? Is it mechanical problem of the connector pins worn out/oxidized? It does seem to be a mechanical problem since I can still wiggle the cable to make it charge for a while. What puzzles me is that the USB-C has inherent redundancy with 4 power and 4 ground pins that it should not easily fail. I have a phone with the old micro-USB and the charging still works flawlessly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure. It does seem to be a mechanical problem, but I've seen some repair videos where they open it up and just run a soldering iron over the connector pins on the board and it starts working again. I've ordered a daughter board and a replacement back glass panel in case I break it trying to get it off. I'll update after I get the parts and open it up to see if it works.
The board I ordered was this one from Amazon Smile:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08166DLDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It seems like the ~$10 boards are missing some chips that the ~$20 ones have, at least according to the pictures that were uploaded with the listing.
@bpowdhar, Thanks for the quick reply. I did order a connector board on Ebay, and it looks to be of the ~$10 variety. I'll see how it works when it gets here. I will also try the "melting the solder" trick without removing the connector first. If that works, I'll leave the old board in place just to minimize the risk.
So I received the USB-C charging board and replaced the bad one. Now, it seems to be charging normally. It took some work to open the back cover by heating to soften the glue/tape around the edge. I then used an a xacto knife to pry the corner open followed by dragging an old credit card to slowly separate the cover. Once it's open, everything went smoothly. Just watch one of several Youtube video clips to know what to expect. You do need a small Philips screwdriver and a #5 Torx driver. You need to lift a ribbon cable and a micro coax cable from the board. Just don't forget to put them back on to the new board. I didn't bother to fix the old board by re-solder the connector pins because they are way too small for my solder iron.
I rely on the existing glue/tape to glue the cover back, but I'm sure it's not as water/dust proof as before, so I may redo that part to clean the old tape out and use the new tape or glue when I have more time.
I do noticed a couple of parts missing on my $9 board. I don't know if they have anything to do with regulating the high voltage fast charging. I usually charge the phone with a 5V adapter, and I will stick to 5V, at least for now.
Thanks for the update! I'm still waiting for my board to arrive from Amazon. It was delayed with the new shipping date anywhere from Nov 5 - Nov 10 and it still hasn't arrived. It sucks because tracking info shows that it arrived at my area's sorting facility on Oct 29 and left it on Nov 4. So it should have only taken a day or two to get to my local post office and to my house. I'll update when it finally gets here.
I know it's been a couple of months, but I finally got the part and swapped it out yesterday. The battery was completely dead so I plugged it in to charge and left for the day. I came back to it this morning and it's at 100% battery! I'm so happy now! I've attached a couple of pictures showing the old board (with the red dot) and the new one. So far no connectivity issues, but I'll give it a couple of weeks to see if anything changes.
A couple other notes:
It was surprisingly easy to get the back glass off. I used a heat gun on low and ran it around the perimeter for a couple of minutes and a utility knife to cut the adhesive. This part was what I was most apprehensive about tackling.
The fingerprint sensor comes off the same way, apply heat and press / pry away from the glass to reuse.
If I had to do it again, I'd buy the tube of sealant. The replacement glass came with a set of narrow adhesive strips and those were a pain to deal with.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread. Hopefully this helps someone else.