Got my Moto 360 2015 today and quickly realized that the main block to us getting any development on this is that we don't have a way to access it with a computer. I did a partial [very partial] tear down and noticed several pins that could be a usb interface. My question is what would be the most logical way of figuring out what pins do what?
P.S. I know there is a lot of talk about if there is a hidden speaker or not, while I wasn't able to get the watch apart enough to answer definitively it does look like the slot on the side corresponds to a hole under the plastic back... hopefully we'll know more soon.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Posting this image for smartphone. Couldn't get it posted on his account.
I can't find the pins,,can you find it?
Hey,
Do you have some more information about the pinout? I have the same watch and I want to try connect it to USB, because I can't switch it on, and maybe with USB I can start some recovery mode or something like this.
I also found other "test pads" below the plastic cover with antenna. I found some pins, that I am sure about function. Below I wrote two links to images (I can't add attachment to post - just remove the spaces from the address below):
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout_back.png
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout.png
Here is description of pins on the images:
1-Power switch; 2-?; 3-?; 4-Battery; 5-?; 6-GND;
A1-?; A2-?; A3-Antenna; A4-?; A5-USB5V; A6-GND
Maybe you have some other info how to switch on this watch?
Best regards,
menuet
I know this is so old... but maybe someone that is passionate about electronics could find a way to connect usb cable...
There must be a way... The bootloader says this..
I was thinking that in @menuet pictures, A1, A2, A5, A6 could be the 4 wires that should connect to a usb cable
If you're looking to send adb commands to the watch why not use Bluetooth debugging?
https://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html
I know that... I was hoping to find a way to make a usb cable like for the first generation, and in this way to unlock the bootloader, root...etc...
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
stevemw said:
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, didn't checked yet... I don't want to disaasembly my watch yet.. I just added some comments, maybe someone has already an old/broken watch an can check the pins...
@icysea and @SmartphoneER and @menuet posted some pictures that might be helpful...
I don't know electronics. I am just a programmer. BUt I asked one of my colleagues that knows, and he told me that doesn't recognize the new look of the wires...
I think that they made a special cable to access the bootloader...
P.S. I attached, @menuet 's pictures...
Thank you....
UPDATE:
found the full disassembly process: http://it.sohu.com/20160126/n435898447.shtml. It has more technical details...
I remember the white latex-covered finger tips. I came across this teardown a while ago but couldn't find it again.
hei... let's work together and find those PINS... Maybe someone has a broken watch that can use to find out where are the pins for an USB cable...
Motorola did a great job with hiding the pins, but everything that is done by human can be hacked by human....
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
found one more disassembly:
http://www.btspeaker.cn/thread-7582-1-1.html
UPDATE:
Also, seems like swapping the D+ and D- from the USB scheme, doesn't do any harm. Maybe someone can try this. I would have tried on my watch, but I am from Romania and my watch was bought from US. So, no warranty. And it's still functional, and working great....
See here for more details:
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/73295/in-a-usb-cable-is-it-ok-to-swap-the-d-and-d-wires
This is going to sound weird but I have the second gen and it does appear to have an unlocked bootloader. I noticed because I bought this watch used and I couldn't update. The thing is the guy I bought it from didn't do it. The plastic ring is still on the watch so I don't understand how this was done unless they accessed the pins. Can you even do that over Bluetooth?
I'm posting here because I would need help in regards to this. Otherwise I'm screwed I guess.
You cannot enter fastboot commands through bluetooth... So, the only plausible reason will be that someone, somehow made an interface and unlocked the device..
P.S.
And this will be a very good information... I am waiting for so long for this to happen..
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am almost completely sure that the interface cable has to be built, upon those golden contacts.. If the original poster still has the watch or someone else, that has a broken watch., maybe can try to make an interface..
P.S. a link with another teardown, this time for Moto Sport http://imgur.com/a/yFb4s
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
stevemw said:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gosh, this is awkward. Well guys, i contacted Motorola and gave them pictures of my watch and they say I got a Prototype Watch.
My bootloader is already unlocked on this watch but there is very old user-build firmware installed. I would like to flash the latest one, but as i read this here, its not possible without an USB connection right?
Edit: my watch is also rooted! I debugged it with bluetooth and tried to shell it. I tried ls the /system dir which failed. But after i su'd it listed me the system directory and all files in it.
I removed the plastic ring from my watch so i am able to see the golden contacts now, and I am ready to try to create an interface if someone teaches me how to do that.
My aim is to flash a custom recovery to it like twrp. I noticed there is a moto 360 twrp recovery, so i guess it shouldnt be to hard to port this to the second edition right?
Edit: I am going to create an interface cable with that 4 pins..
Two pins I know, GND and 5V. The other two pins i will need to find out, but basically, if i found the correct ones and they are connected to the watch and the watch is in bootloader, and i do fastboot devices i should see the watch as fastboot device right? (To make sure the interface works ofc.)
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Yothri said:
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank for trying.. Now, can you, put a picture of the interface you built? And also, can you try to attach the watch through USB to a fresh system, that has no previously installed drivers?
Maybe you can look for drivers for the version one of the watch....
Related
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
InfX said:
The picture isn't very clear, it's hard to say if it's possible and how easy/hard is it. It should be possible, though, but is probably going to be a tedious task. What you need to do is disassemble the phone to the point you can access the USB connector, just like they did on this pic. Take a look where are those detached traces supposed to connect to. Mind the possibility of it also going under the connector, take a look if there are any damaged via points etc. After you did this, you know what you have to restore, from this point on you should also know if you are up to the task.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's put it up this way: If it was you, would you try fixing it yourself?
Yes. But i do have some hardware related experience
Note that the price of $540 is TOTALLY not worth it, you can probably get a new HD2 for this price.
Have you tried another/new cable ?
britoso said:
Have you tried another/new cable ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but you can clearly see some broken traces on the pic. If that's really is how it looks like, trying a new cable, or doing anything that applies any mechanical force to that connector, can only do more damage.
i had a very similar problem with my htc universal back in the days, and had a console chipper repair it for me but if you're experienced using a soldering iron, maybe you can fix it yourself.
a "console chipper" should have a lot of experience patching this kind of electronic stuff, indeed
I have just had this happen to me with an O2UK HD2.
Anovo have charged me £280 for the repair, claiming it needs a new pcb.
This isn't missuse, this is poor quality. I have never had this happen before and i am inclined to believe its a fault with poorly secured micro usb connectors.
It looks like i'll have to dig out my soldering iron too, lets hope i don't overheat the pads!!
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Throatchopper said:
I have an HD2 with a non working usb problem...I have yet to open it up to verify whether its a mechanical or software related issue...I'm betting looks like your pic on the inside
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup same problem here but i have to have the usb cable hanging down from the connector to have it work
i agree ****ty assembly process... and i know i used to solder motherboards and power supplies for work
I have the same problem with the usb connection. Can't connect it to the computer anymore. But my windows button also broke.................bad buildquality to bad.
And probobly no warranty cuase i have ozdroid 2.00 installed and can't flash it back anymore..............
Same problem here,
The connection is only made when the cable is pushed upside.
I thought maybe I just replace the mainboard, but that's not possible because these are not sold.. (Different IMEI etc..)
So I wan't to try to replace the micro USB connector.
The disassembly proces is not the problem, I have already replaced 3 LCM modules.. But I wan't to know how difficult it is to replace the connector.
They are sold on ebay for ~7 euros
Anybody already tried?
its doable
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
mikeyman2171 said:
I am a former console chipper, so I know its possible, and pretty easy if the traces are not ripped off the board. just use a LOW wattage iron with a thin tip and thin solder so that it melts quick. also use flux. another thing that can help is to either use a strong double sided tape or epoxy to hold the usb connector in place BEFORE soldering the usb connector to the board to keep the problem from happening again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was about to say the same thing, youre spot on there.
depending on the level of damage to solder pads and traces these should be quite repairable on most.
reinforcement with epoxy as suggested by mikeyman is an excellent idea.
anybody in the uk near the midlands with a bust usb port? id love to have a go at one of these as i have plenty of experience with console work, i do 0603 smd leds by hand with ease so sure i could do this.
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
mooooooa said:
Hello. The other day, I discovered that my HD2 had a loose connection on the micro USB entrance. When the cable was plugged in, the connection was only made when the cable was pushed upside.
So I got it for repair, but yesterday the workshop called and said it was my own fault, so they will only fix it for a prize of 540$. As a prove for saying it's my own fault, they send me this picture: http://app1.appserver.dk:8080/RepairPictures/servlet/getPic?id=51371.
They says that the pins from usb entrance is detached from the chip(motherboard), and that could only happen if I'd misused my HD2.
I declined the price offer for the repair, and they will ship my HD2 back.
My question is; Can I fix it myself? Maybe solder the pins to the chip? Is that possible? And how can I disassemble the HD2? Which tools do I need?
Please help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Mogkupopppo said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986268&page=2
well maybe I should have taken some picture when I was repairing mine. These comment may not help much. The one showed in the picture will be super hard to fix. First of all, the 3 pads are gone and leaving 2 with a little bit remain. To at least charge the phone you need to rewire the 1st and 5th pin in order to charge. and I think one of the pin is useless but the middle pins are for data. trace the pin and bridge them with copper wire or extreme small wires. the pins are always connected to the caps near the port so try to trace around there. and don't dig the pads its no use. you will only dig the ground or (-) out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My USB port is broken. The connector flexes and I can see that the part of the PCB that was soldered to the USB pins has stayed with the USB and broken away from the main PCB.
I can easily solder "flying leads" for pin 1 (+5V - seems to be a large "test pin" directly below) and pin 5 (GND - will solder to USB shell leg). This should restore charging via USB.
I am just unsure about where the data pins 2 and 3 should be soldered to. Do you know where you soldered them?
Thanks
Darren .)
broken usb port htc hd2
nutmegy said:
Just broke mine... I have to lift the cable up for it to charge... Any one near watford who can fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI,
I have a broken micro usb port on my htc hd2 and wondered if you managed to get yours fixed.I know yours was damaged some time ago but I also live near Watford so wondered if there is a reasonable place that could fix it for me.
Thankyou,
Jeevesta
Mine just broke, as well. All of a sudden, I now have to tilt the cable up to get it to charge, and tethering does NOT work at all anymore. Anyone in the US have this problem? If so, did you get it repaired, and if so, how did you do it? I have no idea about the soldering and other stuff the earlier posts mentioned, and T-Mobile told me I just need to get another phone. Please help!
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium
Updating with just the patched classes, instead of the update.zip due to complaints. Inside you will find the source to the app (yeah doing it in Settings.apk would be better, I'm being lazy) and the modified classes for services.jar. This is not working yet, it is being uploaded so other devs can tinker as well. We need kernel source before this will work, more than likely.
Issues known:
->breaks dock support.
Needs:
-> Drivers
-> ??
Cable Details:
GizmoDroid said:
From what I have gathered, there are three common types of cables most people might have hiding in their closet. There are multiple devices that use these types of cables, but most of them tend to follow those pinouts. If we definitively find out the right layout, you can mod a cable you already have, or get them for dirt cheap off of ebay/monoprice (fully recommended, they have nice cables for cheap).
[Size=+0]Common Cable Pinouts[/Size]
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
A) Samsung Galaxy S official cable, Nokia (cable #CA-75U), cables that come with most Media Players (Archos, Gigabeat, Creative, Zen Vision, Cowon iAudio, Apple iBook)
B) Standard Camcorder cable -This is the most likely kind that you'd find at a store if it doesn't specify what it is for.
C) Zune
D) iPod Video
[Size=+0]Quick Fix[/size]
Some cables you already have can be used without modding the cable, even if the pinout isn't the same.
Type B/C/D device with a different Type B/C/D cable
By plugging the video plug into one of the audio channels, and vice versa, you can swap the signal without cutting your cable. Refer to the chart to see which audio channel to plug the video into.
Type B device with a Type A cable
Plug the cable in all the way, then pull it out one notch. You will have only one working audio channel though, so this will sacrifice audio quality.
[Size=+0]What type do I have?[/Size]
If you have a multimeter, it is easy to find which type of cable you have. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms). Put one lead on an RCA signal pin, then touch the other to each of the 4 spots on 3.5mm jack. Whichever one shows ~0 ohms means that that RCA signal is connected to that spot on the jack. Some MM have a continuity mode that will beep whenever you make a closed circuit. This is easier since you don't have to look at the MM while you are doing this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jcase said:
Status:
I have no phone yet, this will improve once it gets here (this week? damn slow ebayers).
Patches Applied
Kernel /init.rc
->patch applied to run tvoutserver as a system service
services.jar /ServerThread.class
->patch applied to see the tvoutservice
services.jar /HeadsetObserver.class
->patch applied to properly detect rca cable
App
->applies needed setting, launches hidden tvout settings menu
Issues known:
->breaks dock support.
Our tests were inconclusive, as we only had one cable of an unknown pinout and one tester. We have gotten rid of all errors, the device sees the cable now, runs the service and communicates with the service.
Patch is for Superclean based on eb01 with voodoo. I am not responsible for any thing that happens due to this patch. Please don't apply unless you know what you are doing and can recover a "soft brick" on your own.
Patch
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8699733/apks/tvoutpatch001.zip
App
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8699733/apks/BallmerPeakTVOut.apk
Please report back any crashes, failures or for sure if it works.
Please report the type of cable you used, if it worked or not and if known the pinout.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the!!!??
Have you actually gotten to see anything on the screen yet?? I'm going to bust this out and try it now. I have my own cable that has been sitting in the packaging for weeks just waiting for someone to come out with this. I will test it out and report back shortly. I have no qualms about bringing my Fascinate back from the dead if I bork it ...
If this works, and something actually shows up on the TV, super big thanks!
Wait as in a micro usb to composite/component? HDMI?
Wait, wha? This would be awesome!
Before I blow $40 on cable ... do you know if this is supposed to only work for analog NTSC output or if HDMI output over the microUSB is one of the available options?
edit: sorry finakechi, you beat me to it.
Subscribed.
3.5mm to RCA, we haven't gotten output to the screen. I ordered a grip of cables and a fascinate, but it wont be til friday when I can test it.
Testing shows it seems to work, and nolonger errors. We just haven't gotten output. I posted here with hopes of someone having a working cable with the right pinout, or another dev picking up interest and joining us.
the usb to hdmi cable is to costly and I won't be looking into it unless someone sends me one. I think RCA is good enough.
I know we have two cables at work that are from two different digital cameras..they both work with their respective cameras but only one works with the fascinate and the vibrant phones we have here... the pinout looks the same though... so you may be getting output and you just don't know it yet.
Got an error report:
<fuzzhead> i do think your app/patch is kind of working or trying to work though. i opened gallery and video player and both fc'ed while i was playing with rcas. leads me to believe it was trying to output
If someone with experience using logcat can reproduce this, and get me the log it would greatly help.
kmalinich said:
I know we have two cables at work that are from two different digital cameras..they both work with their respective cameras but only one works with the fascinate and the vibrant phones we have here... the pinout looks the same though... so you may be getting output and you just don't know it yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean works on the fascinate?
I have this EXACT cable. Will test out in the next 24 hours. If this cable doesn't work, nothing will.
Syn Ack said:
I have this EXACT cable. Will test out in the next 24 hours. If this cable doesn't work, nothing will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the cable doesnt work, switch out the wires, it might not be yellow that is video out. Also if it doesnt work, then we just investigate further.
jcase said:
What do you mean works on the fascinate?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
damn, that was a hell of a typo. I meant captivate
kmalinich said:
damn, that was a hell of a typo. I meant captivate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha. That is a little bit of an "oopsie."
Edit: Well, this is weird. I installed the patch, and now it's doing the robotic female voice and taking forever to reboot. I wiped caches and such, but I don't remember changing any voodoo settings ... hmm. Yeah, it's still talking to me. Weird. We'll see what happens. I'm on EB01, but not a superclean. Suppose locking up a phone is as good a reason as any to try a new ROM.
Well, after a successful boot, the app indeed runs and lets me change settings without any apparent issues - no force closes, etc. I have the mini jack to the three RCA breakout cables. It's the Dynex brand from Best Buy (purchased when I still had employee discount, of course!) With TV Out enabled or disabled (I tested PAL and NTSC both just for fun) I couldn't get the TV to display any audio or video regardless of how I plugged each cable in - red, white, or yellow. I am going to have to find some cable clamps and do some individual circuit testing and see if it's send out any signal at all, and trace it. It should at least be sending out some kind of audio, because I tested regular stereo headphones, and they still work. I'm excited to monkey around with this a bit. If I can narrow down which signal is going where on the 3.5 to RCA adapter cable I have, I can at least detect, hopefully, that audio is still being sent properly, and even more hopefully, if there is a pos/neg combo that will magically be a video signal. No more time to work on this tonight though.
Thankyou, jcase. I am waited for it, will beta test it as soon as get my cable.
djp952 said:
Wait, wha? This would be awesome!
Before I blow $40 on cable ... do you know if this is supposed to only work for analog NTSC output or if HDMI output over the microUSB is one of the available options?
edit: sorry finakechi, you beat me to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before anyone overpays for a cable:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=3.5mm+to+RCA&x=0&y=0
O this would be awesome if it works! I'm following this.
I already have the cable, it's a generic from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1D0BW
Will test and report. I think I love you.
Not all cables will have the correct pinout (which we dont know what it is).
Damn, jcase. First you help me with my Droid and now that I got a Fascinate you help with that too!
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
imadork8317 said:
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It might... the only problem I can think of is that the dock connects its USB port to the tablet through this connector and I'm willing to be the GPS in the dongle does the same. I'm not sure what would happen if two devices connected to the USB port on the tablet at the same time...
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks demandarin, i will check those out.
I'm also working on this. Its kind of interesting.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But power and data isn't going to account for all 40 pins is it? I still think that some pins are arranged differently between the Prime's port and the dock's. All the extra pins are going to be info for the keyboard and USB and everything. I doubt all the pins even make a connection on the dock's port because the dock isn't about to have a dock plugged into it. The dongle probably uses some of the same information pathways that the keyboard requires and doesn't even have in it's female port.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
who said it was true? those were all possible reasons as to why it didn't work that was thrown out there by other people. then that eliminates that reason. more than likely a software issue. the software probably only points to prime tablet connector port only. developers would have to take a look at it.
So i tore my GPS apart anyways just for fun, the actually device is fairly small, probably only a quarter of the size of the housing. I assumed they made it large enough so they can add the lock feature to make it more durable rather than small and could easily break. And as everyone else has already confirmed it does not communicate through the keyboard.
Where does the 40-pin connector travel while in the keyboard and what pins does the GPS unit use?
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
TheWerewolf said:
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Somewhere I could have sworn I have some OG Transformer pinouts. I'll have to look around all my bookmarks, but I don't know if they'd actually be the same.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD via my tethered HTC Vision
This one?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
From http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=19566215&postcount=35
No, but now I have that one too
Lol, the one I had was much less detailed http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14937362
Would you like to see pictures of the gps dongle device itself?
I have also opened up the gps kit. I have several pictures of me measuring the pins with a volt/ohm meter. If you want I could upload them? Please give me a like, and I will
Also please see this picture of the inside of the 40-pin prime-dock-connector.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1114228&stc=1&d=1339111909
I guess that could be helpfull too.
So the transformer tablets have been out too long for us to not know what is and isn't incorporated in the 40 pin connector, I started to map to pins on the connector and i think we should all work and add to this. I was unsure which pin was #1 and which was #40 but i have the orientation. Below is what i have so far.
I found that only 2 of the USB 3.0 pins seem to be in use in the plug (SSTX+ and GND_DRAIN). Seriously lets start working on this, maybe make it a sticky or something.
UPDATE 5/24/12
I updated the order of the pins so its clearer since it was such a TERRIBLE representation. Also added some pins.
UPDATE 5/7/12
Still working on this, haven't found much more out but i want to keep the thread alive. Keep trying everyone!
UPDATE 5/2/12
Please take not that this is not an official thread from ASUS but the self proclaimed place to officially post Pinout information.
I added a picture and modified the Pin numbers. Everything currently on the pinout has been verified. I also did some work to see if/where the audio linout was but was not sucessful, i will try more soon.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Agian, please feel free to add to this and once pins have been confirmed i will add them to the diagram.
Great thread. I've been wondering about this...but one more item of clarification is necessary....To determine YOUR pin 1, with the ASUS logo side up, are the pins pointed up or down in your classification.
I also think that you should change the title a little....modify "OFFICIAL"...because you don't work for ASUS....or do you?
robertg9 said:
Great thread. I've been wondering about this...but one more item of clarification is necessary....To determine YOUR pin 1, with the ASUS logo side up, are the pins pointed up or down in your classification.
I also think that you should change the title a little....modify "OFFICIAL"...because you don't work for ASUS....or do you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont work for asus and im not sure how to change the title.
with the asus logo on the left with the plug vertical, looking at the plug my pin #1 is the bottom left.
bjohnston115 said:
i dont work for asus and im not sure how to change the title.
with the asus logo on the left with the plug vertical, looking at the plug my pin #1 is the bottom left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could change it "UNOfficial"....just a suggestion
I think I understand you, but consider the words:
With the pins facing you and the ASUS Logo on the Left....
(just a suggestion....it's your thread....and a great one....I hope we get ALL the pins filled in)
Bob
Or this could be the self acclaimed official thread discussing pinout, not the officially released information itself. I think the title works, will discourage a dozen other threads about this however OP is now charged with the duty of keeping it up to date
OP try finding out what pins are used by the keyboard dock itself, not just the tablet. I think several pins must be to pass through USB to the dock and some must be for the keyboard, others must be to pass power through the keyboard and theres gotta be a switch somewhere or a pin thats jumped just to tell the prime its connected to the dock.
Purely speculation of course. Good thread, keep it up!
Here is image I found on another thread:
From: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=19566215&postcount=35
awesome! however i believe the TF101 and TF201 connectors are slightly different, unfortunately those pics come from the TF101 forums... we need someone to do the same for the 201 connectors (high res macro pictures)
EDIT Scratch that, from what i can tell the 101 and 201 connectors are exactly the same. The docks are slightly different thats why i thought the connectors were different but the USB adapter works no problem. Perhaps someone with a GPS dongle can try removing it from the shell and try it on a 101 see if it works there? (maybe the software isnt there on the 101, who knows)
Anyways, the 101 and 201 connectors should be pretty much identical.
pileot said:
awesome! however i believe the TF101 and TF201 connectors are slightly different, unfortunately those pics come from the TF101 forums... we need someone to do the same for the 201 connectors (high res macro pictures)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The SD card and USB dongles work on both, so at least there is some compatibility.
Someone with a dock and an oscilloscope should have a look
Awesome Thread indeed!
PS. When taking up close pictures, try to set it up to MACRO.
babymatteo said:
Awesome Thread indeed!
PS. When taking up close pictures, try to set it up to MACRO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks. I took the picture with my prime and didnt see a macro setting when i looked.
Once we find out the pins that tell the dock/ tablet that it's docked, maybe I can finally keep my USB power on output even when it's not docked. So I can charge my phone when I tether.
Ok, few things.... Firstly, The photo in OP and the photo a few posts down from the TF101 are flipped 180, i suggest OP changes his pin numbers to match the 101, for continuity.
2nd
can anyone confirm or deny that the TF101 power cable works with the TF201? For another project i need to know which pins are for power from the USB charger.... can someone help shed some light on this?
UPDATE Ok so it looks to me anyways most of the accessories that are made for the 101 are saying they work for the 201 as well, chargers, USB adapters, etc. so it stands to reason they have the same pinout
..........
jaycustom said:
Once we find out the pins that tell the dock/ tablet that it's docked, maybe I can finally keep my USB power on output even when it's not docked. So I can charge my phone when I tether.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on a LOT of googling from what i can tell the prime doesnt indicate its charging until it reads over 11 volts coming in so i dont think you can merely jump a couple pins to trick it.
Sorry for the bad news. Sure wish there was better information out there :/
pileot said:
Based on a LOT of googling from what i can tell the prime doesnt indicate its charging until it reads over 11 volts coming in so i dont think you can merely jump a couple pins to trick it.
Sorry for the bad news. Sure wish there was better information out there :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually meant keep the usb power on, even if not docked. Right now I can charge my phone in the keyboard usb, as long as it's docked and the screen is on. As soon as the screen shuts off, or I undock, usb power cuts off. I basically wanna charge my phone even though I am not docked.
Unless that's what you meant and l didn't understand.
Ahh so basically use your dock as a backup battery... Idunno that would mean tearing apart the dock and messing with stuff, I'm not quite there yet. Lemme finish my work on the dongle then we can see about messing up the dock
jaycustom said:
I actually meant keep the usb power on, even if not docked. Right now I can charge my phone in the keyboard usb, as long as it's docked and the screen is on. As soon as the screen shuts off, or I undock, usb power cuts off. I basically wanna charge my phone even though I am not docked.
Unless that's what you meant and l didn't understand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dock has its own firmware, so im sure things can be modified. If only a dev could look into modifying the firmware we'd be laughing!
pileot said:
Ahh so basically use your dock as a backup battery... Idunno that would mean tearing apart the dock and messing with stuff, I'm not quite there yet. Lemme finish my work on the dongle then we can see about messing up the dock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly...charge anything thru the docks usb at anytime.
If someone was willing to send me a spare dock to meddle with then sure i'll have a go at it but i cant risk my only dock. Sorry!
Bump to keep the thread alive!
This is a Summary of how I managed to Brick my DualScreen case by Deleting the Firmware on the dual-screen chip. (and Possibly, How it can be fixed)
I was trying to make a Mod for the dual-screen case to be able to use it with other android or windows devices as a type-c display, Using a Type-C extension cable.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I did a lot of googling and found THIS, apart from that I found nothing useful about the dual-screen case and how it works, so I had to do some digging of my own.I started by extracting all the APKs on my LG G8X that were related to the dual screen case And found an MCU (Microcontroller unit) named “STM32” mentioned inside the “dualscreenfirmware.apk” .dex file, After doing some googling I found that this type of MCU is used in chips like Arduino and other development chips.
Now I had some Basic idea of how the dual-screen case worked, after that, I had to figure out why the dual screen only works with the LG8X and not with the other devices,( yes of course it's because of the software inside the G8X), Again doing some googling brought me to this TEARDOWN video of the dual screen case, in the video I noticed that LG has used a lot of Magnets in the case. Now I did some experiments on my device and found THIS. LG uses these Magnets as the Trigger for the dual-screen case, When you insert the phone inside the dual-screen case the PHONE’s magnet sensor detects the case and activates the USB-C PD (Power Delivery) mode, and starts the Second display function. It also uses a specific type of type-C connection with VCONN, so it does not work when the phone is flipped.
You can go to the Hidden menu on the LG G8X by typing this on the dialer app *#546368#*850# Here I found the Cover Display firmware update option and various other settings. The version of my Dual screen is PIC. There I found the Firmware file name ending with .dfu Again after doing some googling, I found that the STM32 MCU goes to DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode/protocol while updating or flashing the firmware.
I was sure that I can now download and edit or make a firmware file of my own to use the Dual screen case on any device. So I Installed this APP (StmDfuUsb) on my G8X from the play store hoping that I will be able to download/extract the firmware file from the Case itself. I was yet to figure out how the Dual-screen goes to DFU mode for it to be detected on this App. After a lot of Googling and trying to figure it out for a while, I accidentally found it, I went to the Hidden menu and pressed the update cover display option, but this time a pop-up comes up saying open with this app(StmDfuUsb), so I click on it and voila, Now my dual-screen was in DFU mode and it was connected to the app,(as excited as I was) without thinking I tried to download the firmware file to the phone, but I ended up pressing the Erase Flash option instead, Bam... the dual screen went off right in front of me. (Not realizing what I just did) dual-screen was still connected in DFU mode (but stupid me) I removed my phone from the case and Re-Inserted it, but this time it only Connected to my phone as a USB, and changing the USB configuration did nothing but it reattached the USB connection. I went back to the hidden menu to put the dual screen back on DFU mode, and to update the firmware, It showed THIS ERROR, as the dual screen was not detected by the phone as a USB Device the phone was not able to get control of it, also the Buttons on the Case did not work,(At this point I realize that I F**dup) I Started downloading different Apps for USB and STM devices but found it all useless. Also, it does not get detected in windows pc as a USB connection, tried both on a USB A 3.0 port and Type- C port with a USB C extension cable.
After trying for a couple of days, I decided to take the device to the Service Center. I explained the problem to the LG technician “I accidentally deleted the firmware while working on an Arduino chip via OTG”, (of course I’m not gonna tell him that I was trying to modify it.) He tries to diagnose the issue and he told me that the problem was with the USB port on the case and it needs to be replaced, (He thought there was no firmware inside the Dual-scree case, I was Infuriated) After a few minutes of arguing with him, I told him to order the part, as he told me that they won't charge me anything if it didn't work even after the replacement ( the Type-C port was ₹1600 approx), and there, I return after two days to get the port replaced, and as expected the Dual-screen still in the same condition after USB port replacement (I told you so moment), So the technician now believes me and calls his senior management on phone, and now he does not understand the problem, he told me that they do not have the firmware seperately for the Dual-screen and they do not have the authority to access the firmware, they just replace parts, he said they can replace the PCB inside the dual-Screen, Now I know that will solve my problem as the new PCB will come with the Firmware built in, but it was not the solution I was looking for, I told the technician to place the order for the part (which costs around ₹1500), then I return home.
Now, I did not want to spend ₹1500 for a thing that can be fixed with the software. Thinking about this problem got me to blame LG for hiding the information and resources about the Dual screen, so I Emailed LG Service India Head and LG CEO office from the LG India website. Meanwhile, I also asked for High res pics of the PCB/Motherboard, from the same guy who did the TEARDOWN video and got it HERE. I also got the .DFU Firmware file from a guy with a Rooted G8X (The file is stored inside the phone under system files).
Now I know this problem can be fixed easily if LG reveals the information about the Dual screen and provides the Repair guide and relevant resources (Still Emailing them to escalate this Issue #RightToRepair). Also, I’m relying on the LG community and its developers that can help me get my dual screen working again. I have provided all the Information and resources that I think can solve this issue, if I’ve missed something please let me know.
My guess for possible solutions are-
An App can detect the USB device and put it in a different connection mode. (Possibly to DFU mode)
These Pins/contact points on the PCB can be used to put the device on bootloader/ DFU mode like on an Arduino chip. (I need to find the right jumper pins.)
Using the 3 Buttons on the case to put it in Bootloader/DFU mode. (I have tried a few combinations, but No luck)
-SDK
Go look at this post also
[LG TOOLS] LG-KDZ-dll-Tool/LGUP_UI-fixer/LG-Kdz-downloader
Please, do not share elsewhere as I want to be able to update if necessary ! LG-KDZ-dll-Tool/KDZ dll extractor (=old version) : this message actually, scroll down a bit... LGUP_UI-fixer LG-Kdz-downloader Share this thread or my blog instead...
forum.xda-developers.com
Hi. I stepped upon this thread looking for disassembly method due to broken hinge. Case is using STM32F411 chip to create HID device (aka touchscreen and buttons support) along with power management. STM32 can enter FW download mode (aka DFU) with Boot0 pin connected to VCC before RCC performs initial reset sequence. That being said, procedure is:
1. Disconnect case from phone (or PC, as I believe it can be done using PC too)
2. Short 3.3V_MCU_VDD to BOOT_DOWNLOAD pin
3. With these pins shorted together, connect case to phone or pc
4. Verify connection in DFU app (or STM32CubeProg if you are using PC)
5. Upload firmware
@enkidu.eu
Hi. I tried your method and sucess upload the firmware for my bricked dualscreen.
My phone is LG V50s and my dual screen firmware version is LMV515N-V30a_00.dfu
Sadly my dual screen touch is ok, but nothing show up. I mean it's like screen brightness is set to zero. All other functionality is fine.
Do you have any idea why?
Is my dualscreen broken or the firmware problem.