The v20 screen is pressure sensitive. This can be tested in developer options/show touch data. PRS value changes as you apply more pressure to screen. Tested value against noter and Moto x. Only note4 showed pressure sensitivity with stylus.
Not pressure sensitive, unfortunately . That value is showing you how much surface area your finger is covering. Try it again with a very small area of your finger, or using a stylus and the value won't change.
You read it wrong. There are two different value, one for surface area of area being touched and the other is how much much pressure of which I can only get values of .18 to .49. don't want to push my screen too hard. And I've tested this against other phones and had a couple of my buddies test other phones. This screen is definitely pressure sensitive. PRS and SIZE are two different measurements.
@elliwigy @Mentalmuso
Have y'all seen this?
Op is wrong, is not pressure sensitive.. Easy to comfirm lay your palm or all fingers on the screen?.. See how the PRS goes up all the way up...
Yes. It's adding the values. Try adding fingers. Max value is 1.0.
@rbiter said:
Yes. It's adding the values. Try adding fingers. Max value is 1.0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lay your pal with no pressure at all just barely rest.. Value goez all the way up to 1.. So pressure has nothing to do with it..
Related
Hi
There's allot of improvements, shells, skins..... that are finger-friendly...
I Really like it finger-friendly, it is more comfortable and usually looks good.
I've noticed that the TOUCH PAD of the IPhone is very sensitive for finger touch, while the Hermes needs a very hard touch (Relatively).
Is there a (hard) sensitive touchpad (Digitizer) for heremes ? (something more finger-touch friendly...)
I was looking in ebay, and noticed that there are 2 kinds of Digitizers, does someone knows the difference ?
Digitizer G1
Digitizer G2
Tnx.
I'm afraid neither of those will do what you might think they'd do. The term digitizer refers to a module that consists of a matrix to sense particular change of state in one (or more) given point(s) and translate that as coordinates data in digital form.
There are maybe 2 revisions of them in the ebay links you attached but I don't think they work differently, perhaps one has better sensitivity or responsiveness.
Digitizers activated by pressure works differently than ones activated by mere touch (capacitance). The first is noticable by the requirement of stylus or something to "press" a point to "short circuit" a tiny area in 2 thin layers that are stacked together, they know where the "short circuit" is and report that as the touch point. The latter is activated by the fact that the touch actually alters the "electrical charge" of that particular area.
Common portable devices nowadays still use the press-type, usually it is completely separated from and installed on top of the LCD (if you look closely to your screen when it's turned off you'll notice tiny dots which is the matrix), that's why sometimes they slide around and you have to recalibrate your touch screen. I hope this makes sense.
KaiserVideoDriver has it correct. That's why the iPhone has such a sensative touch screen. Also, I believe that the resistance based touch screens that our phones use are not capable of registering mulitple touch pionts, which is why Apple had to go the opposite route...in order to facilitate the multi touch interface.
From time to time I try and use my Hermes without the stylus, but I constantly find myself either tiring of the constant finger prints and smudges, or I get aggrevated over the touch screen seeming to have a fit from time to time and register touches wrong. It seems to be calibrated for the stylus (i.e. a small, firm touch point); the larger, spread out touch point of a meaty fingertip seems to drive the screen crazy and cause it to register the touch to either of the upper corners. Infuriating when it closes a program or tries to cancel an SMS on you.
Ok, probably not. There's gotta be a perfectly valid explanation, but I just noticed this:
When I open Albums on my Hero and look at a single photograph, I can zoom in and out by pinching. Same goes for web pages. We all know this.
But the thing is: if I put my phone down on the table and try to pinch with just one hand (thumb+index finger), it doesn't work!
I only need to touch the phone with one finger on my left hand and it starts working. I have to touch the back or the frame. The chin doesn't react.
I tried it on an iPhone and it works with only one hand. It must be some conductivity issue and the Hero simply has a touch screen that works differently from iPhones.
It isn't really a problem for me: I can hold the phone in both hands while pinching. I just found it slightly interesting...
Yeah I have noticed that as well. Although if you try to calibrate using the g-sensor calibration tool it sometime fixes the issue...
Clue is in the technology? Capacitative touch screen....hit the physics books guys
A good capacitive screen doesn't require the user to complete a circuit with the phone using another hand to hold it, or by touching the bezel with a finger. The problem is either in the circuitry driving the touchscreen or possibly with the algorithms used to establish finger gestures and position.
It's even feasible that the metal bezel interferes with the electrostatic field introduced when your finger is in proximity with the screen. This would explain why the sensitivity is reduced around the edges of the screen.
Spose you need to form a complete circuit for it to work. Interesting point though, I didn't know that capacitive screens needed a second 'plate' to work (i.e. more than just the screen alone).
Makes sense though if you think about it.
Q.I indeed
jayjay said:
Ok, probably not. There's gotta be a perfectly valid explanation, but I just noticed this:
When I open Albums on my Hero and look at a single photograph, I can zoom in and out by pinching. Same goes for web pages. We all know this.
But the thing is: if I put my phone down on the table and try to pinch with just one hand (thumb+index finger), it doesn't work!
I only need to touch the phone with one finger on my left hand and it starts working. I have to touch the back or the frame. The chin doesn't react.
I tried it on an iPhone and it works with only one hand. It must be some conductivity issue and the Hero simply has a touch screen that works differently from iPhones.
It isn't really a problem for me: I can hold the phone in both hands while pinching. I just found it slightly interesting...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The metal bezel actually acts like a ground point between the capacitive circuitry and your finger. When you are touching at the very edges of the capacitive area there simply isn't enough room to get a good grounding point so the driver/controller gets a hard time of locating what points are actually grounded. The bezel helps in this regard.
Switchbitch said:
A good capacitive screen doesn't require the user to complete a circuit with the phone using another hand to hold it, or by touching the bezel with a finger. The problem is either in the circuitry driving the touchscreen or possibly with the algorithms used to establish finger gestures and position.
It's even feasible that the metal bezel interferes with the electrostatic field introduced when your finger is in proximity with the screen. This would explain why the sensitivity is reduced around the edges of the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...perhaps not then lol
Yeah, well I hate to be the one to ask, but why does it work on the iPhone then? I realize it's a grounding / closed circuit issue, but if another similar phone can do it, then there's obviously a way around it.
And another question: Why doesn't pinching work, but normal one-fingered touching does?
Only place where I could see this becoming a problem is when you dock your device to some plastic holder in a car and want to pinch to zoom in some navigator software. Letting go of the steering wheel to use two hands on your phone isn't necessarily the safest thing in the world. One would assume though, that the interface in any navigator software wouldn't require complex gestures while operating it...
i confrim, using hero without touch the metal edge result in less responsivity and difficult on multitouch operation
hope new firmware can solve this, too many errors using it like a normal keyboard on a table!
What is the best stylus for the capacitive screen we have? I am looking for something with a fine point, let me know your opinions, thanks in advance!
Not how capacitive screens work
That's not how capacitive screens work. No matter how fine a stylus is, the screen will recognize the same thing. This is because a capacitive screen does not measure based on pressure, it measures based on current (At least, that's what I've been told).
If you wanted a finer tip to do finer things with,I'd go for an active digitizer display or resistive screen based phone (Which are basically obsolete now due to active digitizers and capacitive displays.
Hope that helps a bit.
paravorheim said:
That's not how capacitive screens work. No matter how fine a stylus is, the screen will recognize the same thing. This is because a capacitive screen does not measure based on pressure, it measures based on current (At least, that's what I've been told).
If you wanted a finer tip to do finer things with,I'd go for an active digitizer display or resistive screen based phone (Which are basically obsolete now due to active digitizers and capacitive displays.
Hope that helps a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is true that capacitive detects current instead of touch, that does not mean that it is less accurate when discussing location of touch. The underlying grid determines this, but in todays screens, I would think it is as accurate as a resistive screen.
paravorheim said:
That's not how capacitive screens work. No matter how fine a stylus is, the screen will recognize the same thing. This is because a capacitive screen does not measure based on pressure, it measures based on current (At least, that's what I've been told).
If you wanted a finer tip to do finer things with,I'd go for an active digitizer display or resistive screen based phone (Which are basically obsolete now due to active digitizers and capacitive displays.
Hope that helps a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you but i am not looking to exchange this phone for a resistive phone, so given this new information, what is the most accurate stylus that isn't too thick
I was looking for the exact same thing, and ended up going with the "Newest Generation Slim Capacitive Stylus" by A Young Life (AYL). Got it off Amazon, but it might be available elsewhere as well. Works great, slides with minor resistance, and has a much narrower tip than other pens I've used.
While point width doesn't make much of a technical difference, it certainly affects usability. All capacitive stylus models I've seen use a round tip, and the point of contact at the bottom of that little semispherical nub is what registers as a touch on the screen. No matter the size, a sphere is going to converge to a single contact point (with a little give due to material and pressure). But, since you can't see through the pen, you have to estimate the center of the nub when touching it to the screen. The smaller the blind spot created by the nub, the smaller the margin of error.
I bought one off Ebay for .99 delivered from China. It's a small cute collapsable pen with a thin point. I haven't tried it yet because while the tip is thin to allow precise pointing, it is also made from a hard material and I'm scared it may scratch the screen. Is that possible?
If the tip is made for capacitive screens, it should not harm the Atrix gorilla glass.
Could anything sold for under a buck from China possibly harm....Anything?
Youbetcha. As Bush and Mao both said "Trust but verify". Even a gen-you-whine Palm stylus could scrtach Palm screens, so why trust the cheapest stuff from a no-name vendor in China to be any better?
Put on a screen protector first, much cheaper than replacing the screen.
creiz said:
If the tip is made for capacitive screens, it should not harm the Atrix gorilla glass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just received the one armathrillo is describing a couple posts back and I've got to say this thing is nice. The tip is actually a soft hollow bubble. You couldn't scratch a screen if you tried. It's nice and heavy but not too heavy. It feels like a nice solid pen. The little lanyard attachment is a nice touch. It detaches from the stylus and plugs into a 3.5mm headphone jack for storage. when you're done with the stylus just clip it on and the pen stays with the phone/tab/pad.
i know this is old, but I just recently heard about the jot stylus which seems to be fine point...
Here are some photos of Nexus 10 with backcover removed, you can see the screen is fused inside a frame along with digitiser and gorilla glass, the screws you see is for holding the battery and have no effect on the extent of light bleed.
awesome pictures!
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
davidmclaren said:
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still there
atg284 said:
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i guess they are glued together
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
I
263629749 said:
i guess they are glued together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect a thin strip of double sided foam tape. Glue aren't typically used on screens as they create fumes which can haze the screen. Atleast not when we install touchscreens for ATM machines. Double sided tapes are easier to apply also. Same process as screen protectors where you have 3 layers with the center being the actual film. In this case center is the double sided tape. Peel one side, put it on the screen then peel off the other side to expose the other sticky side then lay the screen down on the glass. When its not on perfectly is when I suspect light bleed happens.
The huge problem is trying to remove it once its on. You can use heat to try to separate them. With ATM screens they're thicker so somewhat easier to pull them apart as you heat them but with newer phones or tablets they're so thin that if you do this they'll easily crack.
IMO if the light bleed is bugging you just exchange it rather than risk cracking the screen. Then you'll end up completely voiding your warranty exchange
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Here's a complete tear down. There's no mention of any sketchiness in the way it's put together or components used.
Today we received and promptly disassembled the Google Nexus 10. In usual fashion we’ll release the take apart video next week, but wanted to go ahead and post the preliminary take apart steps and photos. The model we’ve taken apart is the 16GB Wi-FI model. Model # GT-P8110.
One thing that struck us about this disassembly was the complete ease of taking this tablet apart. Whereas Apple seems to be making it more and more difficult to repair devices by combining parts and using as much glue as possible, Google seems to be taking the complete opposite approach. The end result is a device that is extremely repairable. Go Google!
Another interesting note is how many of the components in the device are manufactured by Samsung. It appears that the battery, processor, and flash memory are all made by Samsung. Is this Google’s way of capitalizing on the drift between Apple and Samsung?
That’s it. The Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so that is where the take apart ends.
http://www.powerbookmedic.com/wordpress/2012/11/16/google-nexus-10-take-apart-first-look
that cable that says "GT-P8110" is very interesting. Might help with Samsung support reps in trying to identify what the device is
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/GT-P8110HAEXAR
Edit: Hmm, just looked at my N10 box and it has the number as well; not sure how I missed that before.
pg_ice said:
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its usually the back light led whose brightness is changed thats y u save battery life when u reduce brightness, what ur talking about is the contrast and thats fixed on the tablet, brightness being led light intensity and contrast being each pixel allowing amount of light through it
ok time to get this tablet perfect
i have some slight lightbleed at the bottom right corner as many has.
if i press at the back of the screen at the right corner i can clearly see that the lightbleed gets worse.
so the conclusion is that is has something to do with uneven pressure at the screen when you can affect it with pressure from the back.
i report back how it went and if i found some solution
A little bit off topic here, in regards to thermal throttling, do you think it would be possible to fit a small blower some where up top where the cpu/gpu is located?
Something like this (16mmx16mmx4.5mm):
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...ewproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV46=5197
It would need to be hooked up to 5V, some where like the USB or HDMI port connections on the inside or on the board.
It looks like there is a small hole underneath the camera in the lid that could act as an exhaust, a very restricted one, and the usb/hdmi/3.5mm ports may help intake and exhaust too.
www . youtube . com/watch?v=0Jt1WKymqkM
(not allowed to post links yet)
Hello
I'm using the m5 pro for drawing, but run into an issue with
the pressure sensitivity. The pen doesn't seem to register pressure
below a certain threshold. Then as pressure is increased, suddenly it does. When
drawing, this results in a dotted line, as opposed to a line with continuously
varying opaqueness. See movie above for an example.
Hoping someone can try and replicate this, so I can find out if this is
a design flaw, or a fault in my tablet or pen. Brush settings are quoted in
the movie's description..
Dzjoss
in case anyone is interested: meantime I was able to test the same app on an ipad, and it basically shows the same behaviour, though the ipad is a bit more sensitive. There I also see a broken line. So I think its not an issue with the device itself, just a limitation of the software and technology. You cant seem to beat the sensitivity of a siple pencil (lead)...
I find it heavy but sensitive. Any contact with the screen will draw. Android registers even the distance of the pen from the screen and its angles in the MotionEvent traces so I'd say you just need to tweak your app to make it oversensitive.
emiliewgnr said:
I find it heavy but sensitive. Any contact with the screen will draw. Android registers even the distance of the pen from the screen and its angles in the MotionEvent traces so I'd say you just need to tweak your app to make it oversensitive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I also think its due to the app. Unfortunately in infinit painter I cant find a way to change the pressure curves or something. I'm gonna try some other ones..