Here are some photos of Nexus 10 with backcover removed, you can see the screen is fused inside a frame along with digitiser and gorilla glass, the screws you see is for holding the battery and have no effect on the extent of light bleed.
awesome pictures!
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
davidmclaren said:
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still there
atg284 said:
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i guess they are glued together
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
I
263629749 said:
i guess they are glued together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect a thin strip of double sided foam tape. Glue aren't typically used on screens as they create fumes which can haze the screen. Atleast not when we install touchscreens for ATM machines. Double sided tapes are easier to apply also. Same process as screen protectors where you have 3 layers with the center being the actual film. In this case center is the double sided tape. Peel one side, put it on the screen then peel off the other side to expose the other sticky side then lay the screen down on the glass. When its not on perfectly is when I suspect light bleed happens.
The huge problem is trying to remove it once its on. You can use heat to try to separate them. With ATM screens they're thicker so somewhat easier to pull them apart as you heat them but with newer phones or tablets they're so thin that if you do this they'll easily crack.
IMO if the light bleed is bugging you just exchange it rather than risk cracking the screen. Then you'll end up completely voiding your warranty exchange
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Here's a complete tear down. There's no mention of any sketchiness in the way it's put together or components used.
Today we received and promptly disassembled the Google Nexus 10. In usual fashion we’ll release the take apart video next week, but wanted to go ahead and post the preliminary take apart steps and photos. The model we’ve taken apart is the 16GB Wi-FI model. Model # GT-P8110.
One thing that struck us about this disassembly was the complete ease of taking this tablet apart. Whereas Apple seems to be making it more and more difficult to repair devices by combining parts and using as much glue as possible, Google seems to be taking the complete opposite approach. The end result is a device that is extremely repairable. Go Google!
Another interesting note is how many of the components in the device are manufactured by Samsung. It appears that the battery, processor, and flash memory are all made by Samsung. Is this Google’s way of capitalizing on the drift between Apple and Samsung?
That’s it. The Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so that is where the take apart ends.
http://www.powerbookmedic.com/wordpress/2012/11/16/google-nexus-10-take-apart-first-look
that cable that says "GT-P8110" is very interesting. Might help with Samsung support reps in trying to identify what the device is
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/GT-P8110HAEXAR
Edit: Hmm, just looked at my N10 box and it has the number as well; not sure how I missed that before.
pg_ice said:
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its usually the back light led whose brightness is changed thats y u save battery life when u reduce brightness, what ur talking about is the contrast and thats fixed on the tablet, brightness being led light intensity and contrast being each pixel allowing amount of light through it
ok time to get this tablet perfect
i have some slight lightbleed at the bottom right corner as many has.
if i press at the back of the screen at the right corner i can clearly see that the lightbleed gets worse.
so the conclusion is that is has something to do with uneven pressure at the screen when you can affect it with pressure from the back.
i report back how it went and if i found some solution
A little bit off topic here, in regards to thermal throttling, do you think it would be possible to fit a small blower some where up top where the cpu/gpu is located?
Something like this (16mmx16mmx4.5mm):
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...ewproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV46=5197
It would need to be hooked up to 5V, some where like the USB or HDMI port connections on the inside or on the board.
It looks like there is a small hole underneath the camera in the lid that could act as an exhaust, a very restricted one, and the usb/hdmi/3.5mm ports may help intake and exhaust too.
Related
Does anyone know if there are any capacitive or oled screens that meet the design specs of the mogul's screen? my goal would be to make battery life longer with a more efficient screen but also to (hopefully) make the screen more responsive. Now here comes the crazy part (because this was not right?) I need a screen (and i include the whole back light plate in this) that is at least 0.2mm thinner than the original screen as I would put a flexible solar panel behind the screen to recuperate wasted light to trickle charge my battery (already working on a case mod that would do the same with ambient light).
Thanks!
lol....it's the only thing i can say after reading that post
lol I know that the capacitive screen is next to impossible due to drivers and such... but I am serious about the solar panel behind my screen. I read about the idea years ago and I have never seen it done... so I will do it myself!
Doing something like this is about as realistic as the concept of adding more RAM ... its not economically feasible. The amount of time/effort/cost you would incur would be far in excess of simply buying a better/newer phone.
Now if you're simply trying to do it for the "fun" part of messing around with a gizmo, without caring about the energy and cost spent, who knows.
Only thing about the solar panel behind the lcd is that most lcd have a mirrored plastic backing. You have to remove this from the lcd for sun light to get to the solar panel and in doing so would make your screen very dark. So not feasible.
I wanted to reuse the light that seeps in the back, but if a miror is used to intensify brightness then you are right, this would be useless... I do not know why I had not thought of that... I have dismantled a few lcd screens in the past, I had just never thought of the use of the reflective surface... ok well I guess thats the end of this crazy attempt.
If anyone has any ideas of hardware hack, let me know!
Hardware hacks attempted\contemplated to date:
-change lcd to a better\more efficient one : abandoned
-change backplate for a solar panel : ongoing
-add RFID mastecard chip : failed but looking for other solutions (chip keeps being wrecked when I try to remove it from the plastic using conventional methods such as acetone)
Mod Edit:
Comment removed
thanks for the productive comment.
So I just picked up the DNA today. Loving it! However, I just noticed that I'm seeing light bleed through on the bottom, just below the capacitive buttons when they're lit up. Anyone have this?? Really disliking this!
Yeah. Pretty common.
It is really easy to fix though and you can do it yourself. Unless you want to keep exchanging them and hoping you find one, this would be a better way.
Go to your local auto parts store and pick up this:
http://www.apmengineparts.com/82180.html?productid=82180&channelid=FROOG
Get the smallest one you can because you are only using a bit.
Take a toothpick and apply it to the bottom of the glass where it meets the plastic. Try to push it into the crack, if possible. Let it sit for a few seconds and then take a paper towel and wipe it off along the crack. DON'T get it into the usb port!
Let it dry for a few hours and you are good as gold. It also has the bonus of increasing water resistance and keeping dust out.
Mine didn't have that at all. I guess I got lucky. I do have a small spot almost dead center on the screen that looks like a bluish smudge though. You can only notice it on a white background. It's musky annoying but faint enough to live with.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
dmbfan13 said:
So I just picked up the DNA today. Loving it! However, I just noticed that I'm seeing light bleed through on the bottom, just below the capacitive buttons when they're lit up. Anyone have this?? Really disliking this!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine does, I hate too, at least I'm not the only one with it. Still debating if I should exchange it or not....
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
I have two spots on the botton too...never had this issue with LED screens. How likely is it not to have the light bleeds? If this is indeed a common problem for the DNA, I won't bother exchanging mine
another581 said:
I have two spots on the botton too...never had this issue with LED screens. How likely is it not to have the light bleeds? If this is indeed a common problem for the DNA, I won't bother exchanging mine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Common on Thunderbolt too. Never had Rezound to check.
adrynalyne said:
Common on Thunderbolt too. Never had Rezound to check.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm I guess it isn't something to be concerned about then.
I checked mine again right now in the office restroom with lights off and the phone screening an entirely black image; it does not have any light leakages at its full brightness, but there are two centered light spots triggered by the capacitive buttons that are only visible at the lowest brightness level.
Therefore presumably, turning off the capacitive button lights will eliminate the seemingly light leakages, as they do not seem to be defects caused by the LCD panel itself. But if such a leakage is glowed anywhere else but about the two centered areas just above the capacitive buttons, such as any corners or left/right/upper edges, then it would indeed be a sign of a defective unit.
another581 said:
Hmm I guess it isn't something to be concerned about then.
I checked mine again right now in the office restroom with lights off and the phone screening an entirely black image; it does not have any light leakages at its full brightness, but there are two centered light spots triggered by the capacitive buttons that are only visible at the lowest brightness level.
Therefore presumably, turning off the capacitive button lights will eliminate the seemingly light leakages, as they do not seem to be defects caused by the LCD panel itself. But if such a leakage is glowed anywhere else but about the two centered areas just above the capacitive buttons, such as any corners or left/right/upper edges, then it would indeed be a sign of a defective unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sealed mine to be safe.
Well in case nobody noticed when the lights are on and you are in a dark room and you tilt the top of the device away from you, when you get to a certain angle you can actually see the light from the buttons because of how the glass is curved. This will appear on every DNA because of the glass. so if you have light coming from BELOW the buttons make sure its not this that you are seeing.
I only have light bleeding through at a certain angle. I may pick up some of that stuff though.
Sent from my HTC DNA
.torrented said:
Well in case nobody noticed when the lights are on and you are in a dark room and you tilt the top of the device away from you, when you get to a certain angle you can actually see the light from the buttons because of how the glass is curved. This will appear on every DNA because of the glass. so if you have light coming from BELOW the buttons make sure its not this that you are seeing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case, its coming from the seam between the curved glass and the trim.
Mine too, I can see it from any angle. There's two spots where it bleeds, the gaps between the captive buttons
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
Well, at least I'm not the only one. Might just try to ignore it...we'll see how that goes...
Yeah I'm still torn about what to do. Kinda want to relock/ruu and exhange but what if the new one has something different wrong with it. This one works great, the bleeding is just visual and only in a very dark room so might just do what adryn did and seal it with some gasket maker
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
I just sealed mine. Took 5 minutes tops, and only because I was being precise.
No more light bleed and increased resistance to dust and water.
.torrented said:
Well in case nobody noticed when the lights are on and you are in a dark room and you tilt the top of the device away from you, when you get to a certain angle you can actually see the light from the buttons because of how the glass is curved. This will appear on every DNA because of the glass. so if you have light coming from BELOW the buttons make sure its not this that you are seeing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You think that's really what they're seeing? You can't physically stop that without changing the shape of the glass. i prefer the continuous curve over a slight refraction you can't ever see.
drumz0rz said:
You think that's really what they're seeing? You can't physically stop that without changing the shape of the glass. i prefer the continuous curve over a slight refraction you can't ever see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm certain (in my case) that its the glass and the trim.
Nothing a little black silicone doesn't fix. The shape of the glass is not the problem. The problem lies near the capcitive keys where the glass meets the glossy trim. They are two different pieces.
drumz0rz said:
You think that's really what they're seeing? You can't physically stop that without changing the shape of the glass. i prefer the continuous curve over a slight refraction you can't ever see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just pointing it out just in case... doesn't hurt
i just wonder why the **** some N10s has no lightbleed and others has it all over the screen.
WHY?
thats the big question.
has anyone opend their devices and found something that differ from others or found some loose/to tightend screws?
also i wonder why it is on some devices that the top half is brighter than the bottom screen?.
also i wonder why some people at samsung quality check havnt got fired yet?
its about time they do something.
I suggest we create a thread "Post photos of your Nexus 10 showing a black screen at XX% brightness". That would be a "wall of shame" to send to Google/Samsung. Not sure what the XX would be. 75%? 100%?
Doesn't really matter if its 75 or 100. The camera will auto expose and the images and exposure for every different picture will be different.
I dont care about light bleed, its minimal and I dont see on normal conditions.
pg_ice said:
i just wonder why the **** some N10s has no lightbleed and others has it all over the screen.
WHY?
thats the big question.
has anyone opend their devices and found something that differ from others or found some loose/to tightend screws?
also i wonder why it is on some devices that the top half is brighter than the bottom screen?.
also i wonder why some people at samsung quality check havnt got fired yet?
its about time they do something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only time I notice light bleed is when I boot up, and and I'm like wtf? I have then I quickly forget about it until I see a post on the forums about it.
Yeah you only notice it on screens with black background
Over the last few years I have haunted the Asus Transformer (through several versions) and now the Nexus tablet forums and ALL tablet products have various levels of light bleed which vary even between devices made on the same assembly line. It is like an echo that never dies.
If your device cannot be used due to excessive light bleed then RMA or sell it. If you are expecting no light bleed then, at this time, with this screen technology, tablets are not for you. From what I have read it does not matter which manufacturer, tablets have lightbleed.
This may sound harsh but see for yourself by reading other Tablet forums. You will read similar to identical complaints. Some perceived and some real (ASUS Transformer TF201 WiFi strength):
> Lightbleed
> WiFi poor signal strength to repeated dropped connections
> Poor build quality
> OTA releases that break something
> Poor video playback
> Interface stutter
> Reboots, poor battery life ... etc
I am not saying that you should put up with a poor product more that you should vote with your wallet and your consumer rights like RMAing a defective device.
The thing is about the N10, people might be able to deal with it if it was just some bright spots, but the thing that kills me is that they're bright yellow spots which can easily be seen in the bottom right menu bar thing at all times. This is by far the worst tablet I've ever seen in terms of lightbleed.
I never use my tablet completely in the dark at 100% brightness. I saw the light bleed when I tested it after reading these posts but then when i turn the brightness back down to 50% its gone. I don't even notice it in the dark parts of movies. I understand that there are probably some worse cases than mine, but sometimes I think people are too picky.
Shane_pcs said:
I never use my tablet completely in the dark at 100% brightness. I saw the light bleed when I tested it after reading these posts but then when i turn the brightness back down to 50% its gone. I don't even notice it in the dark parts of movies. I understand that there are probably some worse cases than mine, but sometimes I think people are too picky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not sure if it's a matter of being too picky. I think what kills is that the lightbleed on this table is yellow. If it was white I would tolerate it better.
Start two more threads just to be sure...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
Techie2012 said:
I am not sure if it's a matter of being too picky. I think what kills is that the lightbleed on this table is yellow. If it was white I would tolerate it better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My minor light bleed is pure white.
I don't have any issues with lightbleed on my N10. Is it there an I don't notice it? That may be the case, I guess I don't stare at a black screen and have unrealistic expectations... Great tablet and would recommend it to anyone!
pg_ice said:
i just wonder why the **** some N10s has no lightbleed and others has it all over the screen.
WHY?
thats the big question.
has anyone opend their devices and found something that differ from others or found some loose/to tightend screws?
also i wonder why it is on some devices that the top half is brighter than the bottom screen?.
also i wonder why some people at samsung quality check havnt got fired yet?
its about time they do something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You must not understand manufacturing at all
I opened my N10, the screen is sealed with the front glass inside a plastic frame. The only screws inside are on a metal frame that holds th battery in place, which have no effect on the extent of lightbleed.
With tablets nowadays even with the Asus (which I've tried myself), the screen is attached to the touch panel (digitizer) via strong double sided tape. The screen is really thin so any flex during installation will cause it to be uneven causing some of the light bleed. You can probably remedy it by using a blow dryer or heat gun in low setting to be able to lift up the screen from the touch panel where you have light bleed and even it back down. You have to be careful not to bend the screen too much or it will crack. Again this will probably be a very thin screen (about 2-3mm) and fragile screen. IMO dont even try it and just get it exchanged and hope you get a better one.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2
The screen is fused to the digitiser, ie no double sided tape, and it is impossible to separate screen and digigiser
Chluz said:
The screen is fused to the digitiser, ie no double sided tape, and it is impossible to separate screen and digigiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure youre right. I work for an ATM company and we have touchscreen machines and the touchpanel is sandwiched in between the LCD and front glass. But on tablets the screen is not fused but they use a double sided tape. Whats probably fused is the gorilla glass and the digitizer. Post edited
Also I know this because I've completely removed a dead screen from an asus prime before. Once you have both separated the glass has a thin film (digitizer) on it and on the bottom of the film is a ribbon cable. The screen itself has nothing on the front but a thin 1/4 foam tape around it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2
aznmode said:
Not sure youre right. I work for an ATM company and we have touchscreen machines and the touchpanel is sandwiched in between the LCD and front glass. But on tablets the screen is not fused but they use a double sided tape. Whats probably fused is the gorilla glass and the digitizer. Post edited
Also I know this because I've completely removed a dead screen from an asus prime before. Once you have both separated the glass has a thin film (digitizer) on it and on the bottom of the film is a ribbon cable. The screen itself has nothing on the front but a thin 1/4 foam tape around it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might have misread your post, but I was talking about the nexus 10, Sorry for the confusion
It used to be that there was a piece of double sided sticky tape (like I have on my old tab) between digitiser/ protective glass and LCD screen. For the nexus 10 howver,this website says its all fused together
"Everything else seems to come out just as easily, according to the write-up. But the Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so there's no chance of separating the two. " http://crave.cnet.co.uk/laptops/google-nexus-10-rated-extremely-repairable-after-teardown-50009785/
3DSammy said:
If you are expecting no light bleed then, at this time, with this screen technology, tablets are not for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a ridiculous statement ..there are plenty of tablets without light bleed and everyone should expect to not have light bleed. Now the bleed I'm talking about are the blotchy spot types where there is glow coming from one area that extends out from one/multiple areas. Which the N10 has very bad blotches. Totally unacceptable. Slight even "leak" around the edges is one thing but a yellow blob coming out of a corner when you watch videos is ridiculous.
My HP Touchpad made my 2 N10s look like crap in regards to light bleed. Yeah, a touchpad.
I hope they get it right soon... prob will give it another go in a month at a physical store if I hear good things
I've been suffering the dust issue on 2 lumias now, and have noticed something. If you go to a darkish room/area and tilt the phone, you can see the light from the backlight coming through on the sides of the screen and also at the top and bottom by the capacitive buttons.
e.g. http://discussions.nokia.com/discus...ith_Windows_Phone/30650/1/2012-12-15-1679.jpg
I'm just wondering if there's anyone here who can go to a dark area, and see whether they all have this or not? Kinda worried me because made me think there's a manufacturing defect here and the screen isn't secured properly on the handset - which could maybe account for dust getting in? It might also explain the 'rattle' on vibrate that some are getting.
The three lumias I've seen all seem to have this to a certain extent (the light on the sides is usually much thinner and normally on either the right or the left - not both).
ANyone?
I have two Lumia 920 and I got it there too
uiqjirka said:
I have two Lumia 920 and I got it there too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny enough, I had mine sent in for repairs due to scratches on the screen. After having the screen replaced I have NO light Issues and no more dust issues.
Seems during the initial build the screen is not fitted in or glued in properly ?
pencilcase said:
Funny enough, I had mine sent in for repairs due to scratches on the screen. After having the screen replaced I have NO light Issues and no more dust issues.
Seems during the initial build the screen is not fitted in or glued in properly ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh christ....don't know what to do now. Could either wait until a new batch comes along without this issue or buy one now and send it off to Nokia. I'm rather depressed about the prospect of sending a brand new product away to be opened again
First world problems
paddylaz said:
I've been suffering the dust issue on 2 lumias now, and have noticed something. If you go to a darkish room/area and tilt the phone, you can see the light from the backlight coming through on the sides of the screen and also at the top and bottom by the capacitive buttons.
e.g. http://discussions.nokia.com/discus...ith_Windows_Phone/30650/1/2012-12-15-1679.jpg
I'm just wondering if there's anyone here who can go to a dark area, and see whether they all have this or not? Kinda worried me because made me think there's a manufacturing defect here and the screen isn't secured properly on the handset - which could maybe account for dust getting in? It might also explain the 'rattle' on vibrate that some are getting.
The three lumias I've seen all seem to have this to a certain extent (the light on the sides is usually much thinner and normally on either the right or the left - not both).
ANyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No leak here
Donny1987 said:
No leak here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You GENUINELY have none? I.e. no thin strip of light running down the side(s), no light just above and to the right of the windows key? None above the search key? NONE?!
You must have been sent Elop's personal phone. I've looked at around 6...not that many admitedly, but all from different places so the maths of it all as coincidence is bleak.
Treasure it my friend.
No leaks here too.
Sent from my Lumia 920 using Board Express
paddylaz said:
You GENUINELY have none? I.e. no thin strip of light running down the side(s), no light just above and to the right of the windows key? None above the search key? NONE?!
You must have been sent Elop's personal phone. I've looked at around 6...not that many admitedly, but all from different places so the maths of it all as coincidence is bleak.
Treasure it my friend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no leaks here either... the only issue i have is the dust in the FFC.
No leaks (or dust) here either.
I really tried to find any kind of light leak, but found really nothing.
paddylaz said:
I've been suffering the dust issue on 2 lumias now, and have noticed something. If you go to a darkish room/area and tilt the phone, you can see the light from the backlight coming through on the sides of the screen and also at the top and bottom by the capacitive buttons.
e.g. http://discussions.nokia.com/discus...ith_Windows_Phone/30650/1/2012-12-15-1679.jpg
I'm just wondering if there's anyone here who can go to a dark area, and see whether they all have this or not? Kinda worried me because made me think there's a manufacturing defect here and the screen isn't secured properly on the handset - which could maybe account for dust getting in? It might also explain the 'rattle' on vibrate that some are getting.
The three lumias I've seen all seem to have this to a certain extent (the light on the sides is usually much thinner and normally on either the right or the left - not both).
ANyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Must be a lucky one here. No light leak...or dust. (Whew)
OK cheers guys....well I guess either I'm having a psychotic episode or the unlocked batches ive looked at in the UK are defective.
Thanks anyways x
How would you define the light leak, eg, if I look at the screen on a very extreme angle, I can see through a minute gap at the bottom and see light from those buttons through it through the screen, but in normal circumstances it isnt noticeable at all. like the light isnt uneven or anything like that
Telstra 920
Moylans said:
How would you define the light leak, eg, if I look at the screen on a very extreme angle, I can see through a minute gap at the bottom and see light from those buttons through it through the screen, but in normal circumstances it isnt noticeable at all. like the light isnt uneven or anything like that
Telstra 920
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it's like in the picture link that I put on the first page - Except as well as the top and bottom, there's also a small amount on the sides too that can be made to partly disappear if you push down hard on the screen there - I.e. the impression the glue holding the screen down is loose. It appears on all the ones I've seen, but I don't know, if you guys say you haven't seem it maybe I've just had extraordinary bad luck! It doesn't affect the screen when looking at it normally but it makes me worry for the future - loose things tend to become looser with time, and my theory is this, the dust and the vibrate rattle are interconnected.
I'm looking at my 920 and I think I see what you mean. On the top I see the light across almost the whole top but not at the sides or bottom. Is really a concern (I don't look at the phone at an extreme angle like that..)
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express
paddylaz said:
Well it's like in the picture link that I put on the first page - Except as well as the top and bottom, there's also a small amount on the sides too that can be made to partly disappear if you push down hard on the screen there - I.e. the impression the glue holding the screen down is loose. It appears on all the ones I've seen, but I don't know, if you guys say you haven't seem it maybe I've just had extraordinary bad luck! It doesn't affect the screen when looking at it normally but it makes me worry for the future - loose things tend to become looser with time, and my theory is this, the dust and the vibrate rattle are interconnected.
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Oh ok sorry, I didn't look at the pic. The vibration rattle (from what I've read) is just how it is because of the kind of vibrator (for lack of a better word I can think of) technology. Would have been good to have a nice clean vibration humm being a flagship phone...
Nothing seems to change for me when I compress the screen. Perhaps you really did just get a bit of a dodgy one?
Me either. I just did it again to make certain I wasn't lying to you. I cannot see anything from any angle. Now I'm starting to feel a little guilty.
I'm on my second 920 because the first one had a problem with switching back to handset mode after unplugging a headphone jack, but neither of them have any light leak! Maybe it is a manufacturing defect because of rushed batches due to the supply problems?
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NO light leak here either, but I have dust in the FFC.
No light leak, but there are dust under front camera and once in a while the proximity sensor activates all the time.
I'm experiencing either a defect or an unfortunate feature on this tablet. I just took delivery of a new one, and while viewing any solid colors besides grey on the screen everything is fine (also no dead pixels), but I'm noticing what appears to be slight backlight flickering/pulsing whenever grey or light blue is shown on the screen. It seems to be PWM (pulse width modulation) of the leds, but I can't be certain it's a defect or just the unfortunate way these tablets' led screens are designed. It's a very subtle but consistent and annoying pulse, but it's definitely there. Can anyone confirm that PWM is what's going on with these tablets or if this is a defective screen. The screen doesn't pulse at all on any other colors solid or only partially filling the screen or otherwise.
I haven't noticed anything on mine, though I tend to keep the backlight fairly low (17%).
One thought though which is why I'm saying anything, I remember on the nexus 7 there was an issue with one of the friction pins not connecting to the back of the case's antenna fully sometimes, which would cause the radio/wifi to suck extra power resulting in backlight pulses... have you tried turning on airplane mode (disable the cellular) with wifi off to see if that makes a difference? Though it would be odd if it only affected the one colour... I suppose it could be your ambient light source too, does it do it in sunlight?
joeblowma said:
I haven't noticed anything on mine, though I tend to keep the backlight fairly low (17%).
One thought though which is why I'm saying anything, I remember on the nexus 7 there was an issue with one of the friction pins not connecting to the back of the case's antenna fully sometimes, which would cause the radio/wifi to suck extra power resulting in backlight pulses... have you tried turning on airplane mode (disable the cellular) with wifi off to see if that makes a difference? Though it would be odd if it only affected the one colour... I suppose it could be your ambient light source too, does it do it in sunlight?
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Good idea! Unfortunately, killing the antennas doesn't affect it. And there's no ambient light sensor on the g pad x, so that's out as well I'm so disappointed because there are not dead pixels and only very little light bleed in the corners too.
I didn't mean ambient light sensor would be the cause, more that perhaps you have bulb/s that cycle at a specific rate at a certain colour range that would cause a subtle flicker, I always found those big long roof fixture fluorescent tube lights bad for this sort of thing... I notice some "out of the corner of my eye" subtle flickering on my PC LCD when I have the one CFL on, but not when I have the other LED lamp going instead for example. I just tried a LCD screen tester with various solid colours (cyan, blue) and the only 'flickering' I'm seeing is if I actually move the screen, this panel has some waviness in it that is visible when the screen is off and you angle it just right under a light which seems to pop out on these blues with the backlight turned up - but only when the screen is physically moving. Definitely not a perfect panel, but for me nothing like what you are talking about.
I'm outta ideas though, unless you are running a custom firmware and it does something different than what my stock does.
GL
edit:/ just read that RFD post from the other thread, and I definitely notice a flicker when in nova's app drawer. It seems to occur only right after I move the tablet and only noticeable at higher backlight settings, if I set it down flat and don't move it, it doesn't do it. Perhaps related to the gyro sensor? Something not isolated fully/properly would be my guess. With the wifi turned on, it also does it along with the activity up/down arrows on the logo... now that I've seen it I wonder if its going to bother me on lower brightness levels now :silly:
joeblowma said:
edit:/ just read that RFD post from the other thread, and I definitely notice a flicker when in nova's app drawer. It seems to occur only right after I move the tablet and only noticeable at higher backlight settings, if I set it down flat and don't move it, it doesn't do it. Perhaps related to the gyro sensor? Something not isolated fully/properly would be my guess. With the wifi turned on, it also does it along with the activity up/down arrows on the logo... now that I've seen it I wonder if its going to bother me on lower brightness levels now :silly:
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Thanks for checking. I tried the airplane mode setting, and I swear that fixed it. But then it came back after a few more toggles of data/wifi. Given that you're seeing it too and that others have reported seeing it as well in the RFD thread, I'm thinking it isn't a defect but rather poor design. There's little chance it would be this widespread and only on the exact same color combo for everyone. I think most people just never notice it since you're rarely just looking at a solid or mostly solid grey screen. I wonder if there's a way to disable the gyro on a stock/non-rooted gpad like mine? For me, it does it regardless of brightness level.
I've seen this on different devices too, so it's not just a G Pad X thing. I wanna say I've seen it on my Nexus 5 back in the day, but I've had many devices so it's hard to remember. But yep, noticed it happens on "grey" colors. It's much less noticeable with the brightness lowered. Never really bothered me so never posted about it.
emilyrugburn said:
I've seen this on different devices too, so it's not just a G Pad X thing. I wanna say I've seen it on my Nexus 5 back in the day, but I've had many devices so it's hard to remember. But yep, noticed it happens on "grey" colors. It's much less noticeable with the brightness lowered. Never really bothered me so never posted about it.
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My guess is it's the led pulse width modulation. It affects some screens more than others, but is an issue with led implementation on lcd screens in general. I'm leaning towards keeping the tablet as I'm 99% convinced that another unit would exhibit the exact same behavior. Glad to hear it isn't a defect, but sad that they did not manufacturer a better screen.
Jottle said:
My guess is it's the led pulse width modulation. It affects some screens more than others, but is an issue with led implementation on lcd screens in general. I'm leaning towards keeping the tablet as I'm 99% convinced that another unit would exhibit the exact same behavior. Glad to hear it isn't a defect, but sad that they did not manufacturer a better screen.
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I don't want to clutter this thread any further, but I'm going into a B&M t-mo store to see if I can test this out on a display device to confirm how widespread this issue is.
Quick update on the flicker issue. It's a problem with all the units, or perhaps just poor design. I did a warranty exchange, and the replacement unit had the exact same issue. Oh well. Just time wasted I guess.
I have the same exact issue with the one i got my mom. Fortunately it doesn't bother her too much but it definitely seems to be a design flaw as we also returned it with the return unit having the same issue
Welcome to the world of flicker.
What you are seeing is very common and an unfortunate side effect of cheap reference designs and a don't care attitude.
There are many new standards for flicker but I doubt they'll be implemented. Flicker pwm needs to be in the 10khz range to be indistinguishable to constant current drives.