Does anyone know if there are any capacitive or oled screens that meet the design specs of the mogul's screen? my goal would be to make battery life longer with a more efficient screen but also to (hopefully) make the screen more responsive. Now here comes the crazy part (because this was not right?) I need a screen (and i include the whole back light plate in this) that is at least 0.2mm thinner than the original screen as I would put a flexible solar panel behind the screen to recuperate wasted light to trickle charge my battery (already working on a case mod that would do the same with ambient light).
Thanks!
lol....it's the only thing i can say after reading that post
lol I know that the capacitive screen is next to impossible due to drivers and such... but I am serious about the solar panel behind my screen. I read about the idea years ago and I have never seen it done... so I will do it myself!
Doing something like this is about as realistic as the concept of adding more RAM ... its not economically feasible. The amount of time/effort/cost you would incur would be far in excess of simply buying a better/newer phone.
Now if you're simply trying to do it for the "fun" part of messing around with a gizmo, without caring about the energy and cost spent, who knows.
Only thing about the solar panel behind the lcd is that most lcd have a mirrored plastic backing. You have to remove this from the lcd for sun light to get to the solar panel and in doing so would make your screen very dark. So not feasible.
I wanted to reuse the light that seeps in the back, but if a miror is used to intensify brightness then you are right, this would be useless... I do not know why I had not thought of that... I have dismantled a few lcd screens in the past, I had just never thought of the use of the reflective surface... ok well I guess thats the end of this crazy attempt.
If anyone has any ideas of hardware hack, let me know!
Hardware hacks attempted\contemplated to date:
-change lcd to a better\more efficient one : abandoned
-change backplate for a solar panel : ongoing
-add RFID mastecard chip : failed but looking for other solutions (chip keeps being wrecked when I try to remove it from the plastic using conventional methods such as acetone)
Mod Edit:
Comment removed
thanks for the productive comment.
Related
I just wanted to let you know NOT to buy the new Touch HD privacy screen protectors.
They seem very good "on paper", however in reality it's a major disappointment. The privacy screen protector should reduce the viewing angle of your screen, making sure that people sitting next to you can't see the screen. This feature does in fact work up to a certain point, but the problem is that this screen protector reduces display quality so badly I consider it unusable.
Basically, the entire screen get's a very harsh rainbow color effect and some strange wavy lines that make your screen look like a 1995. CRT screen.
So, in short - avoid it.
I had a mirror screen protector turn up with a case I bought.
Applied it fine, then got the green and pink lines when looking through it, it actually became more clear the larger the angle I looked at it from!
The protector scratched really easily too, tried changing backlight brightness by dragging and I got a nice scratch. I wasn't pushing hard.
Nice idea, poor implementation.
I was thinking about getting something like that. How about some pictures? lol.
If it looks alright, I might swing for it from some other manufacturer because my friend has one on his iPhone and it's perfect.
I threw the protector away 5 minutes after trying it out. It's THAT bad.
As far as the iPhone goes, it's possible that it's not the same manufacturer. Also, it would seem that extremely high pixel density of Touch HD's screen could be linked to the way display get's messed up with rainbow effect.
What is the best stylus for the capacitive screen we have? I am looking for something with a fine point, let me know your opinions, thanks in advance!
Not how capacitive screens work
That's not how capacitive screens work. No matter how fine a stylus is, the screen will recognize the same thing. This is because a capacitive screen does not measure based on pressure, it measures based on current (At least, that's what I've been told).
If you wanted a finer tip to do finer things with,I'd go for an active digitizer display or resistive screen based phone (Which are basically obsolete now due to active digitizers and capacitive displays.
Hope that helps a bit.
paravorheim said:
That's not how capacitive screens work. No matter how fine a stylus is, the screen will recognize the same thing. This is because a capacitive screen does not measure based on pressure, it measures based on current (At least, that's what I've been told).
If you wanted a finer tip to do finer things with,I'd go for an active digitizer display or resistive screen based phone (Which are basically obsolete now due to active digitizers and capacitive displays.
Hope that helps a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is true that capacitive detects current instead of touch, that does not mean that it is less accurate when discussing location of touch. The underlying grid determines this, but in todays screens, I would think it is as accurate as a resistive screen.
paravorheim said:
That's not how capacitive screens work. No matter how fine a stylus is, the screen will recognize the same thing. This is because a capacitive screen does not measure based on pressure, it measures based on current (At least, that's what I've been told).
If you wanted a finer tip to do finer things with,I'd go for an active digitizer display or resistive screen based phone (Which are basically obsolete now due to active digitizers and capacitive displays.
Hope that helps a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you but i am not looking to exchange this phone for a resistive phone, so given this new information, what is the most accurate stylus that isn't too thick
I was looking for the exact same thing, and ended up going with the "Newest Generation Slim Capacitive Stylus" by A Young Life (AYL). Got it off Amazon, but it might be available elsewhere as well. Works great, slides with minor resistance, and has a much narrower tip than other pens I've used.
While point width doesn't make much of a technical difference, it certainly affects usability. All capacitive stylus models I've seen use a round tip, and the point of contact at the bottom of that little semispherical nub is what registers as a touch on the screen. No matter the size, a sphere is going to converge to a single contact point (with a little give due to material and pressure). But, since you can't see through the pen, you have to estimate the center of the nub when touching it to the screen. The smaller the blind spot created by the nub, the smaller the margin of error.
I bought one off Ebay for .99 delivered from China. It's a small cute collapsable pen with a thin point. I haven't tried it yet because while the tip is thin to allow precise pointing, it is also made from a hard material and I'm scared it may scratch the screen. Is that possible?
If the tip is made for capacitive screens, it should not harm the Atrix gorilla glass.
Could anything sold for under a buck from China possibly harm....Anything?
Youbetcha. As Bush and Mao both said "Trust but verify". Even a gen-you-whine Palm stylus could scrtach Palm screens, so why trust the cheapest stuff from a no-name vendor in China to be any better?
Put on a screen protector first, much cheaper than replacing the screen.
creiz said:
If the tip is made for capacitive screens, it should not harm the Atrix gorilla glass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just received the one armathrillo is describing a couple posts back and I've got to say this thing is nice. The tip is actually a soft hollow bubble. You couldn't scratch a screen if you tried. It's nice and heavy but not too heavy. It feels like a nice solid pen. The little lanyard attachment is a nice touch. It detaches from the stylus and plugs into a 3.5mm headphone jack for storage. when you're done with the stylus just clip it on and the pen stays with the phone/tab/pad.
i know this is old, but I just recently heard about the jot stylus which seems to be fine point...
Here are some photos of Nexus 10 with backcover removed, you can see the screen is fused inside a frame along with digitiser and gorilla glass, the screws you see is for holding the battery and have no effect on the extent of light bleed.
awesome pictures!
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
davidmclaren said:
Hm.. Have you tried to turn on the tablet with open cover just to see of the light bleed is still there ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still there
atg284 said:
So I wonder...does it just all snap together during the manufacturing process? If the only screws are for the battery then what is holding the screen assembly to the frame? I hope its not the frame itself causing all the problems...that could take Samsung while to fix if at all :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i guess they are glued together
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
I
263629749 said:
i guess they are glued together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect a thin strip of double sided foam tape. Glue aren't typically used on screens as they create fumes which can haze the screen. Atleast not when we install touchscreens for ATM machines. Double sided tapes are easier to apply also. Same process as screen protectors where you have 3 layers with the center being the actual film. In this case center is the double sided tape. Peel one side, put it on the screen then peel off the other side to expose the other sticky side then lay the screen down on the glass. When its not on perfectly is when I suspect light bleed happens.
The huge problem is trying to remove it once its on. You can use heat to try to separate them. With ATM screens they're thicker so somewhat easier to pull them apart as you heat them but with newer phones or tablets they're so thin that if you do this they'll easily crack.
IMO if the light bleed is bugging you just exchange it rather than risk cracking the screen. Then you'll end up completely voiding your warranty exchange
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Here's a complete tear down. There's no mention of any sketchiness in the way it's put together or components used.
Today we received and promptly disassembled the Google Nexus 10. In usual fashion we’ll release the take apart video next week, but wanted to go ahead and post the preliminary take apart steps and photos. The model we’ve taken apart is the 16GB Wi-FI model. Model # GT-P8110.
One thing that struck us about this disassembly was the complete ease of taking this tablet apart. Whereas Apple seems to be making it more and more difficult to repair devices by combining parts and using as much glue as possible, Google seems to be taking the complete opposite approach. The end result is a device that is extremely repairable. Go Google!
Another interesting note is how many of the components in the device are manufactured by Samsung. It appears that the battery, processor, and flash memory are all made by Samsung. Is this Google’s way of capitalizing on the drift between Apple and Samsung?
That’s it. The Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so that is where the take apart ends.
http://www.powerbookmedic.com/wordpress/2012/11/16/google-nexus-10-take-apart-first-look
that cable that says "GT-P8110" is very interesting. Might help with Samsung support reps in trying to identify what the device is
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/GT-P8110HAEXAR
Edit: Hmm, just looked at my N10 box and it has the number as well; not sure how I missed that before.
pg_ice said:
great photos
have you tried to press at some points to see if the lightbleed changes?
after some speculation i think the backlight on the N10s is set to high
i know that my old Samsung TV looked terrible when using max backlight.
as i dont have any N10 yet (picking it up on friday) im not sure if the brightness slider changes the backlight or the brightness(black level)?
my teory is that the backlight is set at max all the time and you only change the brightness.
thats plain WRONG!
thats why colors looks washed out when increasing the brightness
what you want is also a slider for the backlight
the brightness(black level) should ALLWAYS be the same
if you want a brighter display you should only change the backlight as the backlight doesnt affect colors/black level or gamma.
backlight only increase the white level.
you dont want to change your gamma right?
so hackers and kernel experts
find a way to change the backlight and most of the problems should be gone
i think
also you need to replace or add a slider with backlight setting instead of the brightness slider
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its usually the back light led whose brightness is changed thats y u save battery life when u reduce brightness, what ur talking about is the contrast and thats fixed on the tablet, brightness being led light intensity and contrast being each pixel allowing amount of light through it
ok time to get this tablet perfect
i have some slight lightbleed at the bottom right corner as many has.
if i press at the back of the screen at the right corner i can clearly see that the lightbleed gets worse.
so the conclusion is that is has something to do with uneven pressure at the screen when you can affect it with pressure from the back.
i report back how it went and if i found some solution
A little bit off topic here, in regards to thermal throttling, do you think it would be possible to fit a small blower some where up top where the cpu/gpu is located?
Something like this (16mmx16mmx4.5mm):
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...ewproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV46=5197
It would need to be hooked up to 5V, some where like the USB or HDMI port connections on the inside or on the board.
It looks like there is a small hole underneath the camera in the lid that could act as an exhaust, a very restricted one, and the usb/hdmi/3.5mm ports may help intake and exhaust too.
Hey guys, today I dropped my HOX+ (International), not for the first time, but this time the glass shattered.
Ofcourse I don't want to spend buckets for some professionals, I will try to do it on my own.
Only the glass broke, touch is still fine. Only thing I noticed are 2 little holes in the glass where
the colors seem a little bit orange. Now my questions are:
1.Is it possible to only swap the digitizer (glass) or is it too hard glued together with the LCD panel?
2.Are the orange spots (you can barely see them) a problem or the LCD panel or will they
be fixed with a new digitizer?
3.Which HOX models have the same screen as the X+, I heard the international HOX has the same,
is that true?
4.Are the LEDs of the HOX+ menu buttons red or is it just the digitizer? White buttons would look great, too.
5.Do I really need replacementkits for like 60 euro with tools and all that stuff or can I do it with my own tools
at home? My father is not a professional but he already fixed all kinds of electronic things, I got his help.
6.If replacing only the digitizer is possible should I do it or would u recommend to replace the whole screen,
that would also prevent dust in the screen.
7.In many videos they didn't shut down the phone so they could test whether it worked, is that recommended or can I break smth?
That's all I had to ask, tell me which mistakes you did or some tips etc.
Hope I get some fast responses, so I know which things to order, thanks in advance
Tazmaniiac said:
Hey guys, today I dropped my HOX+ (International), not for the first time, but this time the glass shattered.
Ofcourse I don't want to spend buckets for some professionals, I will try to do it on my own.
Only the glass broke, touch is still fine. Only thing I noticed are 2 little holes in the glass where
the colors seem a little bit orange. Now my questions are:
1.Is it possible to only swap the digitizer (glass) or is it too hard glued together with the LCD panel?
2.Are the orange spots (you can barely see them) a problem or the LCD panel or will they
be fixed with a new digitizer?
3.Which HOX models have the same screen as the X+, I heard the international HOX has the same,
is that true?
4.Are the LEDs of the HOX+ menu buttons red or is it just the digitizer? White buttons would look great, too.
5.Do I really need replacementkits for like 60 euro with tools and all that stuff or can I do it with my own tools
at home? My father is not a professional but he already fixed all kinds of electronic things, I got his help.
6.If replacing only the digitizer is possible should I do it or would u recommend to replace the whole screen,
that would also prevent dust in the screen.
7.In many videos they didn't shut down the phone so they could test whether it worked, is that recommended or can I break smth?
That's all I had to ask, tell me which mistakes you did or some tips etc.
Hope I get some fast responses, so I know which things to order, thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
first of all sorry for the screen.
1 . you can't change the glass only because its one part at all. like the glass,touch panel and the LCD are the same piece its too hard to separate them unless you have a IR Oven. so try the whole screen replacement. the international HOX screen is ok but the capacitive buttons will be white not red.
ps:don't try to open the chase with your own unless you know what you are doing . cuz i opened mine for like 20 times and every time i was breaking something in it. Mostly the power switch flex is real easy to be broken. good luck with that.
ps2: im suggesting you to buy the original spare of the hox+ screen and replace with that. you can do it with the box one but I'm not very sure the screen voltages are the same or compatible totally..
peace :angel:
So I am back again:
I took a new One X Plus Screen and built it in the phone..
I can turn it on, my PC detects the device, menu buttons are glowing. Now 4 problems:
-LCD is not working (digitizer works fine, I tested it with swipe to wake)
-vibrator thing is not working
-speakers not working
-menu button LEDs are glowing, but u can't see the buttons itself glow, only the LEDs are glowing
I am pretty sure that everything is plugged in how it should be done, any ideas?
Don't have a phone right now so fast help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
Edit:
-vibrator thing is actually working, it was just blocked by something
-Menu buttons can't glow because there is something between LEDs and the screen, gonna fix that later
-speakers can't work because they are in the housing, sry for that mistake
Now the only problem left is the lcd, i am going to check again whether the lcd cable
is connected or not. If you have any ideas for other reasons why the lcd could not wok
please tell me.
Another question: under the menu buttons of my old screen were 3 transparent plastic pieces,
at first I thought it were the leds, but they are actually nothing electrical, just plastic pieces
glued on the screen. What are they for, do I have to keep them?
So, long story short, my phone's battery had a sudden death. After I had it serviced by a 3rd party company, it came back with the screen somewhat damaged.
Here are some pictures for example, using the display service test:
I can't prove they did it because I simply couldn't turn the phone up until they replaced the battery. The battery might have leaked or something. They obviously didn't take the blame for it, but they also messed up the usb port so they are definitely a potential suspect. But, if they did it, what could be it? Looks like it got stained or wet or something... Definitely weird.
That kind of display issue is typically caused by a polarizer that is warped, usually caused by applying pressure to the display when it is hot. It's an all too easy thing for an inexperienced or careless repair person to do while the phone is face down on the bench, especially if they heat the entire device to loosen the seals, not just the back, or if they cool it down too quickly. It's even more common if the LCD itself is removed, but they should not have needed to do that to replace your battery. You may be able to improve it some by putting if face up, using a hair dryer to slowly heat the display a bit (not too close and moving continuously), and then letting it slowly cool down. If you have a screen saver installed, remove it first. You may be tempted to try and "work out" the warping. You are much more likely to make it worse if you try, so I don't recommend it. If you do nothing, it may slowly reduce on it's own as well.
Tiger Shark said:
That kind of display issue is typically caused by a polarizer that is warped, usually caused by applying pressure to the display when it is hot. It's an all too easy thing for an inexperienced or careless repair person to do while the phone is face down on the bench, especially if they heat the entire device to loosen the seals, not just the back, or if they cool it down too quickly. It's even more common if the LCD itself is removed, but they should not have needed to do that to replace your battery. You may be able to improve it some by putting if face up, using a hair dryer to slowly heat the display a bit (not too close and moving continuously), and then letting it slowly cool down. If you have a screen saver installed, remove it first. You may be tempted to try and "work out" the warping. You are much more likely to make it worse if you try, so I don't recommend it. If you do nothing, it may slowly reduce on it's own as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That might be the case. I can see the patterns shift a bit when I apply pressure to the screen. What is a way to confirm this? Could I do something with polarized sunglasses or something? If that is correct, the areas affected should darken/brighten differently from the rest of the screen.
I didn't try to mess with heating the screen up. Like you said, I might make it worse and I'm already really pissed about it. But I kinda want to try anyways. Where have you seen this before? Is it possible to fix it without opening the phone?
It's more common on tablets than phones, just because of size. I've seen it on screens that have been sat on but didn't break, but heat in combination with pressure is the more typical culprit. The sun or a hot car might do it if the heat was uneven, but I've not seen that. I'm not sure how you could confirm it. Maybe some sections will darken faster as a polarizer is rotated toward perpendicular to the polarized axis of the screen. Essentially, the glue layer between the polarizer and LCD panel is thinner in some places than others, so the polarizer is on a slight angle. In those areas, there is more polarization, and you see a darkness. The only real fix is to replace the screen assembly. The steps I gave will typically just help reduce, but never fully eliminate, the issue.
Unless they did a full, written inspection of the phone before you left it for repairs and you did a full inspection before walking out with it and noted the discrepancy then (which is always a good idea), your repair person is likely to continue to claim they did not do it.
The phone wasn't like that when the battery died. For obvious reasons, the screen couldn't be inspected before the company made the repairs. So I can't say it was their fault, although I'm pretty positive that it was. The suspicion is big because they also messed up the USB port pretty good. But, again, I can't prove it. It sucks because I wanted to sell the phone, and it was in pristine condition.