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Hey I have a questoin, I dont know if anyone can find the awsner, but here it goes. The eris has a nice 5 mega pixel camera; if you take off the back of your eris case and you see next to the camera on the right side a rubber stopper. This rubber stopper I have taken off to find 2 small what look to be mounts for led lights. I dont know what they are. I was wondering if anyone knows what these two small cylindar looking things are behind the rubber stopper. My ultimate goal is to eventually take apart the eris, mount a small led light on the right side of the camera were the rubber stopper is. The point I want to make is that if i dont need to do any soldering, by adding a small wire to the power and a small switch that i plan to add on the side so i can esily push the button like the volume up or down and the light will turn on and off.
And if these two little cylindar things are led mounts then it would be alot less work. Please someone tell me what I am looking at, behind the rubber stopper on my eris
Pretty sure those are factory calibration/test ports. That's what someone once told me.
Sent from my DINC using XDA Premium
Here to save you some time I did this when we were looking for a Root solution.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris%20Inside/
morphius2036 said:
Here to save you some time I did this when we were looking for a Root solution.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris Inside/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool! 10 char.....
wildstang83 said:
Pretty sure those are factory calibration/test ports. That's what someone once told me.
Sent from my DINC using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I prolly gonna have to do some minor soldering wonder if I can use the ports as the power charge?
mjgdroid said:
Ok so I prolly gonna have to do some minor soldering wonder if I can use the ports as the power charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty excited te see this work. I don't have any led just laying around but I'm gonna test my old Eris for voltage at those points your talking about. Some questions I have though. Are you trying to make a flash for the camera or just something decorative like a light mod? What type of led are you trying to use and what is the required voltage to light them?
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Ok I just tested those ports and there is not any voltage there. I did test a few other spots on the board and had good 4v readings on all of them. So a micro switch setup would for sure work.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
wildstang83 said:
Ok I just tested those ports and there is not any voltage there. I did test a few other spots on the board and had good 4v readings on all of them. So a micro switch setup would for sure work.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as whatever LED you use doesn't try to pull more amperage than the particular circuits you use can handle. Then those circuits would burn up and incapacitate the phone.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
As long as whatever LED you use doesn't try to pull more amperage than the particular circuits you use can handle. Then those circuits would burn up and incapacitate the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sort of understand that. I'm a mech not an electrician though. So is there a way to measure the max effective amp draw on the board? As far as led goes I'm thinking about the bright flash type led that's found in most flash capable phones. I understand we wouldn't be able to scale brightness like on my DINC. But to atleast push a mini toggle and have it light up would be cool.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
wildstang83 said:
I sort of understand that. I'm a mech not an electrician though. So is there a way to measure the max effective amp draw on the board? As far as led goes I'm thinking about the bright flash type led that's found in most flash capable phones. I understand we wouldn't be able to scale brightness like on my DINC. But to atleast push a mini toggle and have it light up would be cool.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No there isn't a way, at least not realistically. It would probably be safest, and possibly easiest to just wire the toggle switch and LED directly to the contacts that touch the battery instead of taking a chance hosing the phone by 1) trying to attach wires to circuitry in the middle of the phone and 2) possibly burning out the circuitry by drawing too much amperage.
DO NOT HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS BLOWING UP ANYONE'S PHONE!
But I can't think of a reason that would have any problem. Straight to the source!
Or you could just duct-tape a made-for-camera battery to the back of the phone with wires sticking out.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
No there isn't a way, at least not realistically. It would probably be safest, and possibly easiest to just wire the toggle switch and LED directly to the contacts that touch the battery instead of taking a chance hosing the phone by 1) trying to attach wires to circuitry in the middle of the phone and 2) possibly burning out the circuitry by drawing too much amperage.
DO NOT HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS BLOWING UP ANYONE'S PHONE!
But I can't think of a reason that would have any problem. Straight to the source!
Or you could just duct-tape a made-for-camera battery to the back of the phone with wires sticking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All this info These Are GREATE POSTS!!! I am working slowly won't see my mod done for a while, But With everything you guys have posted I am going to cut out a small 3x2 cm oval in back of eris case, then cut A small opening on right side directly across from volume up down.
1.
Each hole will have respectively, Back hole next to camera Just a led light source mod, Not worring about flash while camera takes shot, just a light mod that will always turn on
2.
A small push button on and off switch like you see on many routers, and other small electronics. I mean very small the size of the search icon or so.
With the button solderd to the battery, or another power producing source maybe even a speacial battery mod placed inside eris housing
3.Connect all led mounted next to camera in back, and power button so when I push small button on right site of phone led turns on.
I am doing this slowely so it looks professional. and you won't be able to tell the led or button were not made for the eris stock phone.
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE HELP, information and IDEAS!!!!!
Keep up the work GENTlEMEN
mjgdroid said:
All this info These Are GREATE POSTS!!! I am working slowly won't see my mod done for a while, But With everything you guys have posted I am going to cut out a small 3x2 cm oval in back of eris case, then cut A small opening on right side directly across from volume up down.
1.
Each hole will have respectively, Back hole next to camera Just a led light source mod, Not worring about flash while camera takes shot, just a light mod that will always turn on
2.
A small push button on and off switch like you see on many routers, and other small electronics. I mean very small the size of the search icon or so.
With the button solderd to the battery, or another power producing source maybe even a speacial battery mod placed inside eris housing
3.Connect all led mounted next to camera in back, and power button so when I push small button on right site of phone led turns on.
I am doing this slowely so it looks professional. and you won't be able to tell the led or button were not made for the eris stock phone.
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE HELP, information and IDEAS!!!!!
Keep up the work GENTlEMEN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would be cool to see screenshots of both your work in progress plus your finished product!
Hey mjgdroid, So I've been sitting here thinking and staring this little Eris down... Was trying to think to myself the best way to do this mod and have it look "stock". A few brain farts later and I have effectivly led my self to believe that the only realistic location for the leds to be mounted would be in the diagnostic port. I think two leds would fit there just fine. After staring at the Eris even more I was pondering where the switch would go. After being inside the Eris a couple of times before I remembered that on the inside of the Eris on the right there is the speaker and a very small cavity beside it. I think this would be the location for the mini push switch. This spot would be good because it woudnt be effected by the frame screws or the board. As far as wiring, I think the best bet would be either stripped headphone wire or ribbon wire soldered directly to the inside part of the battery terminals inside the phone case.*not the part you see when you remove the battery cover and battery.
I was also tinkering with the thought of a 3 or 5 led "strip" light mounted to the inside of the battery cover itself. Holes ported of course so the leds could be seen from the outside. Refer to the picture for an idea of what I was thinking
Sorry about my grammer and spelling. To tired to care enough to fix it
wildstang83 said:
Hey mjgdroid, So I've been sitting here thinking and staring this little Eris down... Was trying to think to myself the best way to do this mod and have it look "stock". A few brain farts later and I have effectivly led my self to believe that the only realistic location for the leds to be mounted would be in the diagnostic port. I think two leds would fit there just fine. After staring at the Eris even more I was pondering where the switch would go. After being inside the Eris a couple of times before I remembered that on the inside of the Eris on the right there is the speaker and a very small cavity beside it. I think this would be the location for the mini push switch. This spot would be good because it woudnt be effected by the frame screws or the board. As far as wiring, I think the best bet would be either stripped headphone wire or ribbon wire soldered directly to the inside part of the battery terminals inside the phone case.*not the part you see when you remove the battery cover and battery.
I was also tinkering with the thought of a 3 or 5 led "strip" light mounted to the inside of the battery cover itself. Holes ported of course so the leds could be seen from the outside. Refer to the picture for an idea of what I was thinking
Sorry about my grammer and spelling. To tired to care enough to fix it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that an Eris in your pocket or are you just landing a plane? (landing strip)
Actually, that's a great idea. Wonder how much room would be needed, if there's a pre-made strip of LEDs mounted to something thin enough to fit between the battery and the back of the case.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
Is that an Eris in your pocket or are you just landing a plane? (landing strip)
Actually, that's a great idea. Wonder how much room would be needed, if there's a pre-made strip of LEDs mounted to something thin enough to fit between the battery and the back of the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL, your funny. But hey, I actually had this idea because a friend of mine had a few of these led "Strips" that he was wiring into his Scion for accent lighting. They were bright enough that at night they could actually light up his engine bay. The ones he had were red so the wern't extremely bright. Before he put them in he showed them to me. The neat thing about these led strips are that they are paper thin. Well maybe as thick as a credit card. The leds were probably no more thicker than the raised letters of a credit card. So I don't think thickness would be an issue. Excpecially once each tiny hole is ported for the leds. The thing that I also remember was when he showed them to me before he put them in they were powered by a demo power pack like you would see them attached to so you could try them before you buy them. That power pack was only two aa batteries. So to power these leds off the phone battery I don't think would be an issue. Now the next issue is to find out where to get them because he got his from a swap meet.
I've posted a picture of these things. Its not the exact ones he had but this will give you a good idea what they look like.
wildstang83 said:
LOL, your funny. But hey, I actually had this idea because a friend of mine had a few of these led "Strips" that he was wiring into his Scion for accent lighting. They were bright enough that at night they could actually light up his engine bay. The ones he had were red so the wern't extremely bright. Before he put them in he showed them to me. The neat thing about these led strips are that they are paper thin. Well maybe as thick as a credit card. The leds were probably no more thicker than the raised letters of a credit card. So I don't think thickness would be an issue. Excpecially once each tiny hole is ported for the leds. The thing that I also remember was when he showed them to me before he put them in they were powered by a demo power pack like you would see them attached to so you could try them before you buy them. That power pack was only two aa batteries. So to power these leds off the phone battery I don't think would be an issue. Now the next issue is to find out where to get them because he got his from a swap meet.
I've posted a picture of these things. Its not the exact ones he had but this will give you a good idea what they look like.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's me. Funny Kevin!
Just beware, the LEDs have a voltage rating, and I don't feel like looking at the voltage of my battery right now. 9.6V sounds familiar. 12V LEDs would probably be more adviseable in that case. Check first.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
That's me. Funny Kevin!
Just beware, the LEDs have a voltage rating, and I don't feel like looking at the voltage of my battery right now. 9.6V sounds familiar. 12V LEDs would probably be more adviseable in that case. Check first.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the battery I have in my Eris right now is the stock battery out of my DINC(I upgraded the DINC to the 2150mAh bat) and its a 3.7vdc 1300mAh battery. I'm thinking that should work.
[DINC]|[CM7]|[SLAYHER#27]
wildstang83 said:
Well the battery I have in my Eris right now is the stock battery out of my DINC(I upgraded the DINC to the 2150mAh bat) and its a 3.7vdc 1300mAh battery. I'm thinking that should work.
[DINC]|[CM7]|[SLAYHER#27]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know what I was thinking! That's good.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
Hi all,
I had to replace the power button flex board of my i9100, but I made a mistake when soldering, and something shorted and a SMD in the board exploded with a *BANG* and went flying like a bright shooting star. Then came the smell of fried electronics, oh boy, that was horrible! Strangely, I couldn't locate which SMD component exploded, the boards looks fine, even if carefully examined with a 10x magnifier.
I thought the board was completely destroyed. But I fixed the power flex cable soldering, assembled the phone, connected it to the USB charger, and guess what?? The recovery menu appeared, some message appeared and quickly disappeared, and the phone booted normally! Everythting worked: network, wifi, bluetooth, camera, etc. However, the power button didn't work anymore, even now it's properly soldered.
I removed the battery to turn off the phone, but now it doesn't turn on with the button. If I plug it to USB, now it shows the charging battery screen, animated and all, but I can't turn on the phone anymore!
So I ask: does anyone know which SMD components take part in turning the phone on by pressing the power button? I can't find this info in the service manual, but I'm sure it's just a matter of replacing a burnt SMD resistor, capacitor or inductor, since the phone works, I saw it working!
So, does anyone have any info for me, or at least a detailed diagram of the circuitry, so I can find my way into that?
Thank you all in advance!!!
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
Hi all,
I had to replace the power button flex board of my i9100, but I made a mistake when soldering, and something shorted and a SMD in the board exploded with a *BANG* and went flying like a bright shooting star. Then came the smell of fried electronics, oh boy, that was horrible! Strangely, I couldn't locate which SMD component exploded, the boards looks fine, even if carefully examined with a 10x magnifier.
I thought the board was completely destroyed. But I fixed the power flex cable soldering, assembled the phone, connected it to the USB charger, and guess what?? The recovery menu appeared, some message appeared and quickly disappeared, and the phone booted normally! Everythting worked: network, wifi, bluetooth, camera, etc. However, the power button didn't work anymore, even now it's properly soldered.
I removed the battery to turn off the phone, but now it doesn't turn on with the button. If I plug it to USB, now it shows the charging battery screen, animated and all, but I can't turn on the phone anymore!
So I ask: does anyone know which SMD components take part in turning the phone on by pressing the power button? I can't find this info in the service manual, but I'm sure it's just a matter of replacing a burnt SMD resistor, capacitor or inductor, since the phone works, I saw it working!
So, does anyone have any info for me, or at least a detailed diagram of the circuitry, so I can find my way into that?
Thank you all in advance!!!
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hola Eduardo,
you probably used a too high temperature in the soldering iron.
Google for "56542824-Samsung-GT-i9100-service-manual.pdf" and you will find a good service manual that will guide you on a series of problem.
I doubt that there's a procedure for your specific problem, but you may be able to know what SMD you have to replace.
I wish you luck, and next time make sure that the temperature is low (and eventually use a solder paste!)
robdpi said:
Hola Eduardo,
you probably used a too high temperature in the soldering iron.
Google for "56542824-Samsung-GT-i9100-service-manual.pdf" and you will find a good service manual that will guide you on a series of problem.
I doubt that there's a procedure for your specific problem, but you may be able to know what SMD you have to replace.
I wish you luck, and next time make sure that the temperature is low (and eventually use a solder paste!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply, robdpi!
The soldering iron temperature was ok, I used a 12W Weller micro soldering iron, temperature was not more than 550F / 300C, and I never leave the iron on the work for more than 3 continuous seconds. The problem was a short between two of the 3 pins in the connector. I noticed it only after the accident occurred, testing with my multimeter.
About the service manual, this is the one I have, and the testing procedures (voltages, frequencies) are all OK when plugged to the USB, but they all fail when I try to turn it on with the power button. And you're right, there's no procedure in the manual regarding this specific problem.
Anyway, I will keep trying, thanks again,
Eduardo
Well, after almost an year, I fixed the phone! I'll write about the solution here, to serve as a reference to anyone who needs help.
I managed to find the electrical schematics of the whole phone. With the information given in it, I noticed the connection between the positive battery pin and the flex power button connector was interrupted. Probably the short circuit I did overheated and blew some thin trace on the PCB and it kind of exploded. So I soldered a thin wire between the battery connector and the power button to replace the lost connection, and the phone is now working again! If anyone needs the schematics, just PM me and I will send it over.
But now, I'm back to another issue the phone already had, even before I did the short circuit: the screen shows horizontal lines, blurring the image. It started after I replaced a cracked screen. Does anyone have any idea if it's software or hardware related? May it be a driver issue? I'm from Brazil, and the screen came from Korea (bought at eBay). Should a korean screen work in my phone? Is it possible to confirm or not if it's hardware or software related?
Any help will be great, thanks in advance!
Eduardo
Post a screen.
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
Post a screen.
Sent from the little guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I attached 8 pictures showing how the thing looks like. Please note the banding can't be seen on black background, and it's only horizontal. I used red arrows to show the banding. Vertical and curve artifacts are distortions caused by the camera.
If you pay attention to the file names (which have the time each picture was taken) it's possible to see how the thing gets worse with time. In the last pictures, screen goes completely unreadable, it degrades to an almost uniform bluish white.
I already tried flashing a custom kernel as suggested on another thread, but it didn't help. Already tried stock 4.0.4, that didn't work also.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
I attached 8 pictures showing how the thing looks like. Please note the banding can't be seen on black background, and it's only horizontal. I used red arrows to show the banding. Vertical and curve artifacts are distortions caused by the camera.
If you pay attention to the file names (which have the time each picture was taken) it's possible to see how the thing gets worse with time. In the last pictures, screen goes completely unreadable, it degrades to an almost uniform bluish white.
I already tried flashing a custom kernel as suggested on another thread, but it didn't help. Already tried stock 4.0.4, that didn't work also.
Thanks a lot for any help.
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same isue with my phone and i have another motherboard , but it didn't work....
ps: my screen is a genuine one
kozimcfly said:
i have the same isue with my phone and i have another motherboard , but it didn't work....
ps: my screen is a genuine one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you tried the screen on two motherboards, and it shows the same problem on both? Could you please tell the country of origin of your motherboards and screen? I suspect it may be a hardware incompatibility issue.
In other words: motherboards sold in country X may not "talk" correctly to screens from country Y. My i9100 is from Brazil, but the screen came from a Korean seller at eBay.
By the way, does anyone know if the official firmwares come with low level hardware drivers? Is it possible to "transplant" the video driver from an asian firmware, to a south america firmware, for example?
I know about android phones which changed the wi-fi chip during their life cicle and this transplant used to be made, and worked. I would like to try the same for video.
Thanks!
Eduardo
Marcovecchio said:
You mean you tried the screen on two motherboards, and it shows the same problem on both? Could you please tell the country of origin of your motherboards and screen? I suspect it may be a hardware incompatibility issue.
In other words: motherboards sold in country X may not "talk" correctly to screens from country Y. My i9100 is from Brazil, but the screen came from a Korean seller at eBay.
By the way, does anyone know if the official firmwares come with low level hardware drivers? Is it possible to "transplant" the video driver from an asian firmware, to a south america firmware, for example?
I know about android phones which changed the wi-fi chip during their life cicle and this transplant used to be made, and worked. I would like to try the same for video.
Thanks!
Eduardo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
both of them from belgium
This is either a screen problem or a battery problem.
What happens when you swap batteries?
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
This is either a screen problem or a battery problem.
What happens when you swap batteries?
Sent from the little guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have only one battery, so can't swap to test. But could you explain how could the battery cause this problem?
I just measured the battery voltage with a digital multimeter, and it's 4.15 V, fully charged. This is almost a half volt above the 3.7 V it should be. Do you think this may be the cause for all the problem?
Many tthanks!
Yeah, screen might not getting enough juice.
Sent from the little guy
gastonw said:
Yeah, screen might not getting enough juice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did another test: measured the battery voltage with the phone turned on, to check the voltage drop caused by phone load, but it seemed normal. With phone on, battery measured 3.8V approximately, which is a little less than the 4.15V I got without load. The battery indicator shows 75% battery charge. It looks like the battery is behaving well under load.
Anyway, I will try another battery as soon as I can.
Thanks again,
Eduardo
Well, I did test with another battery and the problem persists. Should I give up and consider it's really a screen hardware problem?
Thanks,
Eduardo
My guess was on the battery, I guess I'll take the screen problem then.
You should have it checked it out with a tech guy.
Sent from the little guy
Well, I think I went as far as I could. I replaced all 20 tiny SMD components from the display flex PCB with the ones from the old display, which cracked.
But it didn't work, the problem remains. Now I think the problem lies in the AMOLED screen itself, or perhaps in the main phone board. Who knows if the main board is sending dirty electrical signals to the display?
Anyway, I think I will just sell the phone the way it is, I can't afford spending even more money on this phone.
Thanks for the help, gastonw!
You got it Eduardo.
Sent from the little guy
Hey guys,
I went out on a limb and bought the OWL car charger+dock for my DNA.
There is a bunch of discussion on the item here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2029734 along with plenty of pictures.
I wanted to let you guys know some specifics for the DNA:
1. The phone fits perfectly into the clip. I don't have any cases, so I can't test that, but naked the phone fits like a glove and is very secure, even upside down.
2. Even the "second generation" of charger still does not put out enough juice for the DNA, even with the phone at idle.
I have emailed Moon and will update this thread when I hear back from him. I am thinking the problem might have something to do with the controller inside the charger. It switches to red (charging) momentarily when the phone is inserted, but then switches back to green (full).
bmyton said:
I have emailed Moon and will update this thread when I hear back from him.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update 1: Moon has emailed back already to assure me that if the charger doesn't work, he will do what it takes to make it right.
I am hoping we can figure out a way to make the phone work in the charger, since I love the design and the convenience of Qi...
awesome! I have been wondering if it works for our phone since I saw the post you linked above about a week ago. I emailed moon about it, but he was unsure. I'm glad that someone confirmed what I have been wondering. Thanks again
I'm also looking forward to more info on this. Going through the website I couldn't quite follow if it worked or not.
Update 2:
The Qi charging coil built into the CarPad does work to charge the HTC DNA, unfortunately the coil is positioned about 0.5" too low for the phone.
Moon is working on an adjustment to the circuit board to re-position the charging coil.
Tonight I am going to take a look at temperatures during charging. With the screen turned on the battery did get 3-4°C warmer than normal on the Nokia Qi charger, but it was a pretty short charge. I am going to try leaving the screen turned on and the phone charging on the CarPad tonight for a couple of hours to see the charge rate and temperature change.
Other news:
There does not seem to be any scuffing, scratching, or denting of the phone's finish caused by inserting and removing from the clip. I had worried that the spring arms on the side might hurt the matte finish on the back of the phone, but so far I don't see any changes.
Thanks guys,
Ben
thanks for the update, keep us posted. in car qi charging is very interesting.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
Thanks, I got a reply from Moon that he thinks the "autopad" will be the option for the DNA and he'll let me know when it is available. I will post info here if I hear back.
http://owlpad.net/owl-autopad/
Update 3:
Good news tonight. First, I've done a temperature test using the phone at room temperature. With navigation, LTE, and the screen constantly on the CarPad provides moderage charge (+200mAh) and does not cause excessively high heat (under 45°C). This is comparable with the 43°C I saw with the Nokia Qi charger while watching a Netflix Stream.
With the screen off the temperature is also pretty normal (35°C) so I think the coil is good.
Moon at Owl Chargers tells me that he may add a little to the coil to make it more consistent on the charging, and he is going to create a new PCB that has the coil positioned 1/2" higher so that it will line up properly with the DNA.
It sounds like this change could happen pretty quickly, but I will let you know when I have the test board in hand.
Thanks guys,
Ben
Please keep the updates coming, thanks!
Hey everyone, sorry for a few days of delay.
I talked to Moon this morning and he thinks they should have the test board created by the beginning of next week. He is moving the charging coil up to line up better with both the DNA and the Galaxy S3, and he is upgrading to a bigger charging coil to presumably give better charging efficiency.
I have removed the standard charging coil from the phone holding base and have been using it as a standard desktop charger for the last few days (with the Owl-Pad supplied AC Adapter). It has been working well for that as long as I position the phone properly, so with any luck the new board should fix the problem in the car mount.
I will let you guys know when the new part ships, and will be sure to take pictures of the new versus old board.
Thanks,
Ben
Thanks for the updates.
Sudo make me a sandwich.
Good news from Moon at OWL Pad today, the new circuit board is complete, his testing looks good, and he is shipping it out to me to test on the DNA tomorrow.
I will update everyone here with pictures once I have the new board and have been able to try it out, but Moon posted some initial tests on the Galaxy S3 and Note 2 which both charge at the higher position. Those tests looked good so I have to think it will work on the DNA as well.
Thanks all,
Ben
(You can see my pictures and charging screenshots on the OwlPad site)
http://owlpad.net/2013/02/24/owl-carpad-for-htc-droid-dn/
AWESOME! thanks again. for the final product, he will make a new charger right? we wont have to buy the old one and replace the circuit board i hope.
thanks again.
bigjew92 said:
AWESOME! thanks again. for the final product, he will make a new charger right? we wont have to buy the old one and replace the circuit board i hope.
thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure how he would do that. I'm sure he has a bunch of the units already boxed up from the last production run. It might be that he has to ship the old unit and the new board separate. Honestly, changing the board was incredibly easy. There are four screws and then the old board just lifts out and the new one drops in.
When the new one comes in I had planned on putting up pictures showing how to remove the old one and install the new one.
bmyton said:
I'm not sure how he would do that. I'm sure he has a bunch of the units already boxed up from the last production run. It might be that he has to ship the old unit and the new board separate. Honestly, changing the board was incredibly easy. There are four screws and then the old board just lifts out and the new one drops in.
When the new one comes in I had planned on putting up pictures showing how to remove the old one and install the new one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'd love to get both boards since then I'd be prepared if my next phone requires the "other" position.
breeze94 said:
I think I'd love to get both boards since then I'd be prepared if my next phone requires the "other" position.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
f
Looks like the set is for sale for the DNA on the web page now. Still sounds like he's waiting for test results but you go through with an order now if you want.
Hey Guys,
I got the unit in the mail when I got home from work (30 minutes ago).
So far everything looks GREAT!
I am running temperature and charging tests now, but the new coil position looks perfect, and I'm getting as much or possibly more current out of the OWL charger than I was getting out of the Nokia.
Tonight I should have pictures and screen shots available from my early tests, but I have to say that everything looks great so far.
I also want to add that the level of customer service and responsiveness from Moon at OWL charging was incredible. If I got service half as good from the companies I do business with in the US I would be amazed, and these folks are having to deal with me from the other side of the world. I have absolutely no ties with their company, and hadn't even spoken to them to ask if the charger worked for my phone before I ordered, but they went above and beyond any expectations in getting this charger working.
Once I have a few hours charging I can fill in the remaining details (temperatures, approximate charge time, etc), but right now I would say the newest version is a huge success!
-Ben
bmyton said:
So far everything looks GREAT!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I forgot to mention, the +300 mah charging rate was with the screen locked on, LTE, GPS, Navigation, and Pandora all running.
Ben
bmyton said:
Hey Guys,
I got the unit in the mail when I got home from work (30 minutes ago).
So far everything looks GREAT!
I am running temperature and charging tests now, but the new coil position looks perfect, and I'm getting as much or possibly more current out of the OWL charger than I was getting out of the Nokia.
Tonight I should have pictures and screen shots available from my early tests, but I have to say that everything looks great so far.
I also want to add that the level of customer service and responsiveness from Moon at OWL charging was incredible. If I got service half as good from the companies I do business with in the US I would be amazed, and these folks are having to deal with me from the other side of the world. I have absolutely no ties with their company, and hadn't even spoken to them to ask if the charger worked for my phone before I ordered, but they went above and beyond any expectations in getting this charger working.
Once I have a few hours charging I can fill in the remaining details (temperatures, approximate charge time, etc), but right now I would say the newest version is a huge success!
-Ben
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
awesome! thanks for the feedback and being a Guinea pig for us all... i really appreciate it. so to make sure, you are now using the carpad/N2 right? if so, i'm gunna go ahead and place my order.
Thanks again
bmyton said:
I forgot to mention, the +300 mah charging rate was with the screen locked on, LTE, GPS, Navigation, and Pandora all running.
Ben
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Placed my order. I'm willing to give it a shot at this point!
So after my daily workout (watching "Breaking Bad" on the tablet) I managed to let my trusty 201 slip from my hands while taking it off the thin little ledge on my exercise bike console.
BAM, landed right on its corner on the bike's steel support bar.
Now it appears to be functional - except for the small point that the screen don't come on anymore.
Since I cleverly just put a "pattern" lock on it before maiming the poor thing, I can't get it unlocked reliably, but when I press the screenshot button on the keyboard it makes the shutter-click sound.
And I am getting notification bleeps when new mail comes in.
But I'm blind.
I have taken some steps in the past to open it, I did the Wifi antenna thing and tried to get the GPS working (bahahaha what a waste of time THAT was!)... and I've repaired a number of other phones and crap... so I'm not unskilled in this arena.
And I'm sort of optimistically hoping it's just a loose cable or something. There's only the smallest dent in the casing in the corner. No cracks in the screen or anything.
But has anyone gone down this road and maybe has some pointers as to what to look out for? Is there a backlight module that might have popped and just needs replacing?
I'm very sad, this little guy has been my stalwart companion for many, many moons...
Thanks for any input.
R
rprussell said:
So after my daily workout (watching "Breaking Bad" on the tablet) I managed to let my trusty 201 slip from my hands while taking it off the thin little ledge on my exercise bike console.
BAM, landed right on its corner on the bike's steel support bar.
Now it appears to be functional - except for the small point that the screen don't come on anymore.
Since I cleverly just put a "pattern" lock on it before maiming the poor thing, I can't get it unlocked reliably, but when I press the screenshot button on the keyboard it makes the shutter-click sound.
And I am getting notification bleeps when new mail comes in.
But I'm blind.
I have taken some steps in the past to open it, I did the Wifi antenna thing and tried to get the GPS working (bahahaha what a waste of time THAT was!)... and I've repaired a number of other phones and crap... so I'm not unskilled in this arena.
And I'm sort of optimistically hoping it's just a loose cable or something. There's only the smallest dent in the casing in the corner. No cracks in the screen or anything.
But has anyone gone down this road and maybe has some pointers as to what to look out for? Is there a backlight module that might have popped and just needs replacing?
I'm very sad, this little guy has been my stalwart companion for many, many moons...
Thanks for any input.
R
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
flumpster said:
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aha! The hdmi cable. Hadn't occurred to me.
I love this forum.
(Also been using androwook for quite some time, with Data2SD... big fan - very smooth. would hate to lose and/or have to reinstall from scratch though!)
flumpster said:
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well - this was a fantastic suggestion, since the HDMI gave me a perfect picture and the thing is (as thought) fully functional.
It was interesting trying to judge where to tap on the tablet to hit certain things on the screen, though.
This is actually quite a load off, since worst case I can get a new screen from ebay.
Thanks again, flumpster - I am much relieved, and you are a god among men!
rprussell said:
Well - this was a fantastic suggestion, since the HDMI gave me a perfect picture and the thing is (as thought) fully functional.
It was interesting trying to judge where to tap on the tablet to hit certain things on the screen, though.
This is actually quite a load off, since worst case I can get a new screen from ebay.
Thanks again, flumpster - I am much relieved, and you are a god among men!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you go mate. I knew I had seen it before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLcxI2JddQ#t=411
This is for the original transformer but they should be nearly the same.
flumpster said:
Here you go mate. I knew I had seen it before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLcxI2JddQ#t=411
This is for the original transformer but they should be nearly the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice!
I have my fingers crossed.
So do my kids, who are going into "Minecraft PE" withdrawal at the moment.
Well, after popping the case, I've disconnected and reconnected everything available - no change in behavior.
I'll try unsticking the LCD and see what else is in there, but it's looking like a more aggressive repair will be in order.
V.sad
PS there's also this vid I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpJs_OI8joA
Arright. Here's my logic. Tell me where I'm wrong.
The video works - the HDMI proved that.
The tablet works - ditto.
Being able to touch and use the tablet shows me that the digitizer is ok, too.
I've reseated all the connectors, but I still can't get a picture.
Therefore, it's the LCD that's gone bad.
Therefore I should order a new LCD.
Right?
rprussell said:
Arright. Here's my logic. Tell me where I'm wrong.
The video works - the HDMI proved that.
The tablet works - ditto.
Being able to touch and use the tablet shows me that the digitizer is ok, too.
I've reseated all the connectors, but I still can't get a picture.
Therefore, it's the LCD that's gone bad.
Therefore I should order a new LCD.
Right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm.. Sounds logical but it could be the power going to the screen or something else that connects the screen. Or does the power etc control the digitizer also ?
flumpster said:
Hmmm.. Sounds logical but it could be the power going to the screen or something else that connects the screen. Or does the power etc control the digitizer also ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, there's one (and only one) ribbon cable feeding the LCD - and two going to the digitizer.
News, though - I pulled out the battery and found another ribbon cable tucked underneath to reseat.
After that, I put it back in and hooked up the LCD - and it came up!!
Sort of, anyway. It lit up enough to show me the spiderweb of cracks all along the bottom edge.
(I think I found my problem.)
Now off to eBay to shop for a replacement... I hope I didn't munge up anything else in there while I was mucking around!
rprussell said:
Well, there's one (and only one) ribbon cable feeding the LCD - and two going to the digitizer.
News, though - I pulled out the battery and found another ribbon cable tucked underneath to reseat.
After that, I put it back in and hooked up the LCD - and it came up!!
Sort of, anyway. It lit up enough to show me the spiderweb of cracks all along the bottom edge.
(I think I found my problem.)
Now off to eBay to shop for a replacement... I hope I didn't munge up anything else in there while I was mucking around!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See if someone is selling a bricked Tf201 of TF300 that you can get the screen out of.
Dear all,
Firstly, I tried to clean the ports as usual, as they gets dirty after one month us continous usage and sporting - but not helped this time.
Looks my watch did not survived after only washing my hands ( never swimmed with them ).
They are still 100% operating, but can not be charged. Even when pluged to PC, now it shows message as unrecognized device (before windows normaly recognized them)
And I can see, battery is getting faster to reach zero %.
Did someone (with bricked watch) tried to open them, or you got some clue HOW TO?
I can then pass them to our engineers in foxconn, to study and find possible solution.
Thanks for any advice.
dodes19 said:
Dear all,
Firstly, I tried to clean the ports as usual, as they gets dirty after one month us continous usage and sporting - but not helped this time.
Looks my watch did not survived after only washing my hands ( never swimmed with them ).
They are still 100% operating, but can not be charged. Even when pluged to PC, now it shows message as unrecognized device (before windows normaly recognized them)
And I can see, battery is getting faster to reach zero %.
Did someone (with bricked watch) tried to open them, or you got some clue HOW TO?
I can then pass them to our engineers in foxconn, to study and find possible solution.
Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn it off, wrap in a thin cloth and put it under the sun for a few days, maybe it'll help
malimukk said:
Turn it off, wrap in a thin cloth and put it under the sun for a few days, maybe it'll help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thanks, I´ll give a try...
First day on direct sunlight passed (shiny +31 degrees all day) - no change, still not charging, error message after connecting to PC, remaining 14 percent battery
tomorrow I will continue...
If anybody have some suggestion, please let me know
THANKS
dodes19 said:
If anybody have some suggestion, please let me know
THANKS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the small spring connectors on the docking has the same height. (in case some of them are somewhat stuck)
I usually also clean the ports on the watch with a wooden toothpick.
nogge69 said:
Check that the small spring connectors on the docking has the same height. (in case some of them are somewhat stuck)
I usually also clean the ports on the watch with a wooden toothpick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
as I wrote, I was cleaning them usually (written in the topic) and as PC can detect watch after connection, means docking connectors are OK - anyway thanks
Finally, I managed to open the watch and found root cause of charging issue.
Touching pin from inside of plastic cover was stacked somehow and not reaching properly to FFC charging poitns (no idea how this damage is possible to happen from inside of watch).
No water leak as it was expected, so at least this point is fine to realize - waterproof OK
I made some pictures, how the watch look like from inside - if somebody is interested in.
Please post pictures, they'd be useful. You're referring to the pins in picture #1 not making contact with the internal pads of the PCB in picture #2 ?
VAXXi said:
Please post pictures, they'd be useful. You're referring to the pins in picture #1 not making contact with the internal pads of the PCB in picture #2 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, exactly...one on the right side of cover is stacked. When I directly put 5V onto +/- pad on the watch, it started to charge...so i only need to fix pin.
Oh, I understand now. Thank you for the pictures, looks to be kind of difficult to fix without opening the watch; perhaps some light, directed tapping on the pad would work.
VAXXi said:
Oh, I understand now. Thank you for the pictures, looks to be kind of difficult to fix without opening the watch; perhaps some light, directed tapping on the pad would work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm...in this case, I think only possibility to fix is to open. Realy depends how it is stacked...mine is pretty solid and hard to release even now when I opened it and got room to touch. Opening of watch itself was pretty hard, well sticked , protected against dust, water and aligned...nice job from xiaomi I must say.
dodes19 said:
hmm...in this case, I think only possibility to fix is to open. Realy depends how it is stacked...mine is pretty solid and hard to release even now when I opened it and got room to touch. Opening of watch itself was pretty hard, well sticked , protected against dust, water and aligned...nice job from xiaomi I must say.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the pictures, interesting.
So for the big question, have you managed to get it back together again, without issues?
(i guess you have to clean and reapply glue/silicone)
nogge69 said:
Thanks for the pictures, interesting.
So for the big question, have you managed to get it back together again, without issues?
(i guess you have to clean and reapply glue/silicone)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now back cover is only freely pushed to watch and placed into docking station - wrapped all around by tape to hold position.
15 minutes ago fully charged, so from this point of view working.
Just to update: pin was not stacked, but finally I found out, that spring inside of this pin was broken.
Now, I will paste transparent contact glue (water resistant) and stick together - it is supposed to have same resistance as before, even I did not tested it so much under water
So I believe for my purposes of usage (only runing and biking) I will handle all my needs.
Anyone knows if there are spare pins somewhere?
Mine has 2 pins which are pretty corroded and now I cannot connect the watch to the PC.
Lucky I can still charge it
zangaby said:
Anyone knows if there are spare pins somewhere?
Mine has 2 pins which are pretty corroded and now I cannot connect the watch to the PC.
Lucky I can still charge it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simple workaround: graphite (temporary) or conductive/silver paste (glue).
Thank you for your advice.
I was hoping to replace them to have a cleaner look.
I found the pins here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20-...1d-4765-bdec-d8632028f24c&transAbTest=ae803_5
But I don't know the size.