Hey I have a questoin, I dont know if anyone can find the awsner, but here it goes. The eris has a nice 5 mega pixel camera; if you take off the back of your eris case and you see next to the camera on the right side a rubber stopper. This rubber stopper I have taken off to find 2 small what look to be mounts for led lights. I dont know what they are. I was wondering if anyone knows what these two small cylindar looking things are behind the rubber stopper. My ultimate goal is to eventually take apart the eris, mount a small led light on the right side of the camera were the rubber stopper is. The point I want to make is that if i dont need to do any soldering, by adding a small wire to the power and a small switch that i plan to add on the side so i can esily push the button like the volume up or down and the light will turn on and off.
And if these two little cylindar things are led mounts then it would be alot less work. Please someone tell me what I am looking at, behind the rubber stopper on my eris
Pretty sure those are factory calibration/test ports. That's what someone once told me.
Sent from my DINC using XDA Premium
Here to save you some time I did this when we were looking for a Root solution.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris%20Inside/
morphius2036 said:
Here to save you some time I did this when we were looking for a Root solution.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris Inside/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool! 10 char.....
wildstang83 said:
Pretty sure those are factory calibration/test ports. That's what someone once told me.
Sent from my DINC using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I prolly gonna have to do some minor soldering wonder if I can use the ports as the power charge?
mjgdroid said:
Ok so I prolly gonna have to do some minor soldering wonder if I can use the ports as the power charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty excited te see this work. I don't have any led just laying around but I'm gonna test my old Eris for voltage at those points your talking about. Some questions I have though. Are you trying to make a flash for the camera or just something decorative like a light mod? What type of led are you trying to use and what is the required voltage to light them?
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Ok I just tested those ports and there is not any voltage there. I did test a few other spots on the board and had good 4v readings on all of them. So a micro switch setup would for sure work.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
wildstang83 said:
Ok I just tested those ports and there is not any voltage there. I did test a few other spots on the board and had good 4v readings on all of them. So a micro switch setup would for sure work.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as whatever LED you use doesn't try to pull more amperage than the particular circuits you use can handle. Then those circuits would burn up and incapacitate the phone.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
As long as whatever LED you use doesn't try to pull more amperage than the particular circuits you use can handle. Then those circuits would burn up and incapacitate the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sort of understand that. I'm a mech not an electrician though. So is there a way to measure the max effective amp draw on the board? As far as led goes I'm thinking about the bright flash type led that's found in most flash capable phones. I understand we wouldn't be able to scale brightness like on my DINC. But to atleast push a mini toggle and have it light up would be cool.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
wildstang83 said:
I sort of understand that. I'm a mech not an electrician though. So is there a way to measure the max effective amp draw on the board? As far as led goes I'm thinking about the bright flash type led that's found in most flash capable phones. I understand we wouldn't be able to scale brightness like on my DINC. But to atleast push a mini toggle and have it light up would be cool.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No there isn't a way, at least not realistically. It would probably be safest, and possibly easiest to just wire the toggle switch and LED directly to the contacts that touch the battery instead of taking a chance hosing the phone by 1) trying to attach wires to circuitry in the middle of the phone and 2) possibly burning out the circuitry by drawing too much amperage.
DO NOT HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS BLOWING UP ANYONE'S PHONE!
But I can't think of a reason that would have any problem. Straight to the source!
Or you could just duct-tape a made-for-camera battery to the back of the phone with wires sticking out.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
No there isn't a way, at least not realistically. It would probably be safest, and possibly easiest to just wire the toggle switch and LED directly to the contacts that touch the battery instead of taking a chance hosing the phone by 1) trying to attach wires to circuitry in the middle of the phone and 2) possibly burning out the circuitry by drawing too much amperage.
DO NOT HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS BLOWING UP ANYONE'S PHONE!
But I can't think of a reason that would have any problem. Straight to the source!
Or you could just duct-tape a made-for-camera battery to the back of the phone with wires sticking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All this info These Are GREATE POSTS!!! I am working slowly won't see my mod done for a while, But With everything you guys have posted I am going to cut out a small 3x2 cm oval in back of eris case, then cut A small opening on right side directly across from volume up down.
1.
Each hole will have respectively, Back hole next to camera Just a led light source mod, Not worring about flash while camera takes shot, just a light mod that will always turn on
2.
A small push button on and off switch like you see on many routers, and other small electronics. I mean very small the size of the search icon or so.
With the button solderd to the battery, or another power producing source maybe even a speacial battery mod placed inside eris housing
3.Connect all led mounted next to camera in back, and power button so when I push small button on right site of phone led turns on.
I am doing this slowely so it looks professional. and you won't be able to tell the led or button were not made for the eris stock phone.
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE HELP, information and IDEAS!!!!!
Keep up the work GENTlEMEN
mjgdroid said:
All this info These Are GREATE POSTS!!! I am working slowly won't see my mod done for a while, But With everything you guys have posted I am going to cut out a small 3x2 cm oval in back of eris case, then cut A small opening on right side directly across from volume up down.
1.
Each hole will have respectively, Back hole next to camera Just a led light source mod, Not worring about flash while camera takes shot, just a light mod that will always turn on
2.
A small push button on and off switch like you see on many routers, and other small electronics. I mean very small the size of the search icon or so.
With the button solderd to the battery, or another power producing source maybe even a speacial battery mod placed inside eris housing
3.Connect all led mounted next to camera in back, and power button so when I push small button on right site of phone led turns on.
I am doing this slowely so it looks professional. and you won't be able to tell the led or button were not made for the eris stock phone.
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE HELP, information and IDEAS!!!!!
Keep up the work GENTlEMEN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would be cool to see screenshots of both your work in progress plus your finished product!
Hey mjgdroid, So I've been sitting here thinking and staring this little Eris down... Was trying to think to myself the best way to do this mod and have it look "stock". A few brain farts later and I have effectivly led my self to believe that the only realistic location for the leds to be mounted would be in the diagnostic port. I think two leds would fit there just fine. After staring at the Eris even more I was pondering where the switch would go. After being inside the Eris a couple of times before I remembered that on the inside of the Eris on the right there is the speaker and a very small cavity beside it. I think this would be the location for the mini push switch. This spot would be good because it woudnt be effected by the frame screws or the board. As far as wiring, I think the best bet would be either stripped headphone wire or ribbon wire soldered directly to the inside part of the battery terminals inside the phone case.*not the part you see when you remove the battery cover and battery.
I was also tinkering with the thought of a 3 or 5 led "strip" light mounted to the inside of the battery cover itself. Holes ported of course so the leds could be seen from the outside. Refer to the picture for an idea of what I was thinking
Sorry about my grammer and spelling. To tired to care enough to fix it
wildstang83 said:
Hey mjgdroid, So I've been sitting here thinking and staring this little Eris down... Was trying to think to myself the best way to do this mod and have it look "stock". A few brain farts later and I have effectivly led my self to believe that the only realistic location for the leds to be mounted would be in the diagnostic port. I think two leds would fit there just fine. After staring at the Eris even more I was pondering where the switch would go. After being inside the Eris a couple of times before I remembered that on the inside of the Eris on the right there is the speaker and a very small cavity beside it. I think this would be the location for the mini push switch. This spot would be good because it woudnt be effected by the frame screws or the board. As far as wiring, I think the best bet would be either stripped headphone wire or ribbon wire soldered directly to the inside part of the battery terminals inside the phone case.*not the part you see when you remove the battery cover and battery.
I was also tinkering with the thought of a 3 or 5 led "strip" light mounted to the inside of the battery cover itself. Holes ported of course so the leds could be seen from the outside. Refer to the picture for an idea of what I was thinking
Sorry about my grammer and spelling. To tired to care enough to fix it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that an Eris in your pocket or are you just landing a plane? (landing strip)
Actually, that's a great idea. Wonder how much room would be needed, if there's a pre-made strip of LEDs mounted to something thin enough to fit between the battery and the back of the case.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
Is that an Eris in your pocket or are you just landing a plane? (landing strip)
Actually, that's a great idea. Wonder how much room would be needed, if there's a pre-made strip of LEDs mounted to something thin enough to fit between the battery and the back of the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL, your funny. But hey, I actually had this idea because a friend of mine had a few of these led "Strips" that he was wiring into his Scion for accent lighting. They were bright enough that at night they could actually light up his engine bay. The ones he had were red so the wern't extremely bright. Before he put them in he showed them to me. The neat thing about these led strips are that they are paper thin. Well maybe as thick as a credit card. The leds were probably no more thicker than the raised letters of a credit card. So I don't think thickness would be an issue. Excpecially once each tiny hole is ported for the leds. The thing that I also remember was when he showed them to me before he put them in they were powered by a demo power pack like you would see them attached to so you could try them before you buy them. That power pack was only two aa batteries. So to power these leds off the phone battery I don't think would be an issue. Now the next issue is to find out where to get them because he got his from a swap meet.
I've posted a picture of these things. Its not the exact ones he had but this will give you a good idea what they look like.
wildstang83 said:
LOL, your funny. But hey, I actually had this idea because a friend of mine had a few of these led "Strips" that he was wiring into his Scion for accent lighting. They were bright enough that at night they could actually light up his engine bay. The ones he had were red so the wern't extremely bright. Before he put them in he showed them to me. The neat thing about these led strips are that they are paper thin. Well maybe as thick as a credit card. The leds were probably no more thicker than the raised letters of a credit card. So I don't think thickness would be an issue. Excpecially once each tiny hole is ported for the leds. The thing that I also remember was when he showed them to me before he put them in they were powered by a demo power pack like you would see them attached to so you could try them before you buy them. That power pack was only two aa batteries. So to power these leds off the phone battery I don't think would be an issue. Now the next issue is to find out where to get them because he got his from a swap meet.
I've posted a picture of these things. Its not the exact ones he had but this will give you a good idea what they look like.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's me. Funny Kevin!
Just beware, the LEDs have a voltage rating, and I don't feel like looking at the voltage of my battery right now. 9.6V sounds familiar. 12V LEDs would probably be more adviseable in that case. Check first.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
That's me. Funny Kevin!
Just beware, the LEDs have a voltage rating, and I don't feel like looking at the voltage of my battery right now. 9.6V sounds familiar. 12V LEDs would probably be more adviseable in that case. Check first.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the battery I have in my Eris right now is the stock battery out of my DINC(I upgraded the DINC to the 2150mAh bat) and its a 3.7vdc 1300mAh battery. I'm thinking that should work.
[DINC]|[CM7]|[SLAYHER#27]
wildstang83 said:
Well the battery I have in my Eris right now is the stock battery out of my DINC(I upgraded the DINC to the 2150mAh bat) and its a 3.7vdc 1300mAh battery. I'm thinking that should work.
[DINC]|[CM7]|[SLAYHER#27]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know what I was thinking! That's good.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
Related
Is it possible to power an HTC HD2 without a battery or the back cover? I found one about an hour ago in my downtown area, missing a SIM card and missing the microSD card. As noted it doesn't have a back cover or a battery, so my intention was to attach a "standard" 5V/1A cell phone battery charger. I figured out from a picture of the battery that if I've got the HD2 flat on the display and I'm looking at the back, the positive terminal will be the one on the left but, when I attach the power supply (which I tested before this attempt, it works) leads using micro-alligator clips and push the power button (front of display, button furthest on the right, I think, never used one of these HD2's before) I get no response.
Now, the question is either a) am I not getting any response at all because the HD2 can't be powered up in this manner because there's no back cover or b) it's more likely to be completely toast because of the damage it apparently suffered in the drop that shattered the glass. The only damage (aside from the glass) is a very tiny scrape/scuff mark on the top right corner of the bezel - obviously that's where it hit the ground.
I don't own any of these apparently micro-USB style connectors (or is it mini-USB, I can't figure out which is which I suppose). Bleh, I just looked at a pic I found with Google Images, apparently it IS a micro-USB connector.
All blabbering aside, even if I had such a connector or a power supply using such a connector, is the phone going to even power up without a back cover on it or battery inside? I know a lot of devices become totally disabled when the back cover is removed (as my Dell Axim X51v does; as soon as I even throw the lock switch to unlock the back cover that disables the device totally.
Anyone able to provide some tips or suggestions? I have no way of knowing who it belongs to so I'm claiming it, and if I can verify it might work or does still function I might be willing to put some money into getting the glass/digitizer replaced, a new battery, power adapter, etc.
Anything at all would probably be quite helpful.
Thanks...
The HD2 works without back cover!
The HD2 doesnt work without battery...!! I've never heard of a mod to enable switching it on through micro-usb.
Be carefull you could be scammed...buying a phone in that state, because of the hit some other components may be damaged!! It depends on the price and money you're willing to risk!
no problem with powering on without the backcover. did that many times before.
but i guess its not possible without a battery...
DN41
Ah, ok, so the fact that there's the two metal 'dots' on the HD2 that apparently become a connection when the metal battery cover is in place don't affect powering it up, but no battery keeps it dead? Hrmmm...
Ok, if someone that owns an HD2 can confirm that it becomes very useful info. Take the back cover off, take the battery out, and tell me if plugging in a micro-USB cable (either from a computer USB port or from the AC adapter) allows it to function at all, and then try the same thing with the cover on (don't put the battery in, however).
So there's 3 possibilities:
1) It'll work off the micro-USB power with no battery and no cover
2) It'll work off the micro-USB power with just the cover installed but no battery
3) It'll work off the micro-USB power with no cover but with a battery installed
and actually the fourth possibility which doesn't matter in my case:
4) It'll work off the micro-USB power with the cover and the battery installed
Dammit I hate it when I find stuff like this and can't get it functional.
Again, thanks for any suggestions - and I didn't buy this phone, I found it a few hours ago, on the ground as I was walking home. I wouldn't buy something in this cosmetic condition unless I knew it was working even in spite of the cracked glass. I've owned iPhones with horribly shattered glass on them but they still function, even all the multitouch functionality is still working - that's my hope here, that this device will still work just fine and if it does then I'll pay to replace the glass/digitizer.
Thanks
Edit:
I think I just realized that the metal contacts on the inside of the back cover and those 'dots' could be because the HD2 is using that battery cover as a Wi-Fi antenna, plate-style antenna.
I just tested it for you. Without the battery in there is no starting it, period.
Might I suggest though that you ask around and find a mate with a microUSB, (you must have someone that has one), and plug it in when the battery contacts are jumped. It will probably work that way. I'm not going to try it because I have a perfectly good phone and have always mistrusted elec-trickery...
those spring loaded studs have been the subject of much discussion, with no definitive answer,, stop the cover rattling, grounding plate for the antenna, remnants of an unreleased car kit,,, who knows. certainly signal doesn't appear diminished with the cover off, and on the inside of the cover there is no coating on the metal where they connect, indicating a signal being passed so who knows.
i suspect simply attaching power to two contacts isn't enough because the third contact is expecting a signal of some kind? perhaps a connection from the battery charge protection circuits?
you could always buy a cheap copy battery from ebay, and just resell it if it doesn't work, or run a scam on your insurance with it? (did i just say that out loud??)
I'll say this again: I found the phone on the ground on the side of the street while walking home a few hours ago.
I don't use T-Mobile service and I have no intentions of using it as a phone; I already have a phone so I was going to use it as a portable media player sorta like an iPod touch if I can verify it works 100% and just needs a battery/back cover/replacement glass and digitizer. That's my intention at this point.
And I was thinking that yes it won't work at all without a battery so, thanks again for the info. I'll head out this morning to a T-Mobile store (actual T-Mobile and not a reseller) and see what they can tell me. Surely they'll have a battery/back cover and potentially an AC adapter to verify if it's 100% dead of somewhat functional even in spite of the busted glass.
Let's hope it works...
what about searching the owner?
DN41
Well, let's see:
- I can't power it up
- It has no SIM card
- It has no microSD card
- The only way to track the owner would be using the IMEI and I'd have to go to a T-Mobile store to do that, when that's done and they get the number, if the phone was stolen and then dumped in the trash/on the street where I found it, they call the police and I get in a bit of trouble for no good reason
That pretty much covers it.
okay, you're right...
i cant imagine how it landed there...
who would throw it just away?
sure that its a real phone and not a dummy?
DN41
DN41 said:
okay, you're right...
i cant imagine how it landed there...
who would throw it just away?
sure that its a real phone and not a dummy?
DN41
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was in a thread yesterday where some guy talked about how he dropped his phone by accident whilst 'driving along with it in his hand, with his arm out of teh window', so yea, some people are , , well, insert your own noun here
oh no...how can you hold your arm out of the windows with a 500€ phone in your hand?
i just cant understand some people...that doestn go in my mind...
DN41
samsamuel said:
i was in a thread yesterday where some guy talked about how he dropped his phone by accident whilst 'driving along with it in his hand, with his arm out of teh window', so yea, some people are , , well, insert your own noun here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought the same!
br0adband said:
they call the police and I get in a bit of trouble for no good reason
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really mate. I found an iphone 4 yesterday and managed to get it back to its rightful owner. Took a couple of hours out of my day but what else could i do?
sike222 said:
Not really mate. I found an iphone 4 yesterday and managed to get it back to its rightful owner. Took a couple of hours out of my day but what else could i do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, Yeah, with an iPhone 4 what else WOULD you do if you don't want the surgery to be able to use it! LOL
Also think if it was your phone! I'd be absolutely gutted, and very glad to get it back. But maybe it's unregistered (through the IMEI) or not been reported as missing.
In the UK (don't know about elsewhere) if you report that you found something to the police (I found a £50 note) and no one can show that they own it then it's yours after about 28 days.
Unless you have really dumb cops then you shouldn't get into trouble if you take it in!
On the other hand you may find the battery and/or cover if you look carefully in the area where you found the phone.
Sam.
br0adband said:
Ah, ok, so the fact that there's the two metal 'dots' on the HD2 that apparently become a connection when the metal battery cover is in place don't affect powering it up, but no battery keeps it dead? Hrmmm...
Ok, if someone that owns an HD2 can confirm that it becomes very useful info. Take the back cover off, take the battery out, and tell me if plugging in a micro-USB cable (either from a computer USB port or from the AC adapter) allows it to function at all, and then try the same thing with the cover on (don't put the battery in, however).
So there's 3 possibilities:
1) It'll work off the micro-USB power with no battery and no cover
2) It'll work off the micro-USB power with just the cover installed but no battery
3) It'll work off the micro-USB power with no cover but with a battery installed
[snip]
Thanks
Edit:
I think I just realized that the metal contacts on the inside of the back cover and those 'dots' could be because the HD2 is using that battery cover as a Wi-Fi antenna, plate-style antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think those contacts are just to ground the back cover to stop it causing interference. It doesn't seem to affect the phone if I don't have it on or am using the plastic cover with my big battery.
On a similar theme, does anyone know if it is possible to power the HD2 from the micro USB supply while I swap batteries. I don't want to have to do a soft reset which loses what you are doing. But I'm worried that without the battery to absorb the power there is a risk of damaging the circuits?
I don't want to just try it because I already blew my main board by powering the USB through a cheep adapter and a Nokia charger that supplied too much power and had I to get it repaired/replaced. I'm hoping someone already knows
Sam
samsamuel said:
i was in a thread yesterday where some guy talked about how he dropped his phone by accident whilst 'driving along with it in his hand, with his arm out of teh window', so yea, some people are , , well, insert your own noun here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did we ever get an answer as to why that, im going to select the noun "twat" was dangling his hd2 out of the window @ 40mph??
I need closure on that one.....
I recently flashed Mysteryemotionz v4.1 kernel and about an hour through bench-marking I came back to find my phone rebooting. I assumed it overheated or bugged out during testing and didn't think much of it until it went through the LG logo 3 times.
I noticed it would not turn on at all without the USB plugged in, my first instinct was that the battery became disconnected somehow. I could get to the fast boot and download screens, but any attempt to vol down into CWM was met with failure, and a fresh LG screen over again.
Any combination of buttons that included pressing power would result in the notification LED eventually flashing, approx 10 times. Sometimes slowly for 10x then slightly faster.
It is worth noting the phone would not charge while doing this, but the battery was full prior.
I tried leaving it unplugged overnight, same problem in the morning. Tried leaving it looping all day while at work, no dice. Finally figured I would attempt to see what was with the battery itself. I suppose if you were very patient, you could wait until your battery discharged completely, thus performing a "soft" battery pull, but this will take 4+ weeks at a full charge.
As the other battery pull thread is Sprint specific, here is a refresh for AT&T's LG E970.
I HIGHLY recommend you take a look at nericus' original thread in the Sprint LG Optimus G forum as this is only supplementary.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2108154
The tools I used: {{Picture 0}}View attachment 1931288
T-6 Torx bit - Your mileage may vary, 4's and 5's may also work, start big and do not strip your screws.
P00 Phillips screwdriver to remove the battery plate / connector.
Fingernails
Sewing needle or similar
Optional:
Business Cards (the phone has a tendency to re-engage the plastic clips when removing the back, these were used as shims to place in between the case and the phone while working the other sides)
Magnet (not only to hold the screws but you can magnetize your screwdriver / bits which will help when removing and inserting)
Also, for a little preview of what to expect, user Xiutehcuhtli has made a YouTube video, this is also Sprint specific but a good visual reference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3DPxzH3l2c
One of the main differences is that your power and volume buttons will NOT fall out, so you won't need to tape them in place.
Be sure to clear them with the back cover when re-installing it.
Also, you will notice that I did not include a spudger as you most likely will not need it.
Our phone is somewhat "inside out" compared to the original article, our back plate is very shallow and our phone is the cradle compared to the Sprint version. This also means there is different risk areas, and pry methods.
{{Picture 1}}View attachment 1931289
Once you have removed the Torx screws, my initial plan of attack was through the SD Card / SIM card cover. You will notice there is a hairline slit toward the volume buttons on the bottom side of the phone, you can very easily trace this with your fingernail and pop the first tab.
Alternatively, you can spread the phone apart gently from the two surfaces revealed by opening the SD/SIM cover and then work your fingernail or a flat object gently into the gap you created.
View attachment 1931290
Patience is key, the last thing you want is to apply too much force to the back cover in any one spot, it is deceptively thin and you risk cracking the glass.
In my personal experience, once I had a few tabs good on the side I simply traced the outline of the back cover toward the top of the phone, across and back down the opposite side, saving the bottom for last. I noticed after two traces around the perimeter of the phone that the back was still very snug and in random spots, as our tabs tend to re-engage themselves much more readily than the Sprint LG.
View attachment 1931291
My solution was to place business cards under the most exposed tabs and gently work it to cover as many tabs as possible and moving along. You shouldn't need more than two, as this can cover an entire side as well as the top and bottom simultaneously, allowing you to focus on the last side. Again, patience and determination will get you there after some time.
{{Picture 4}}View attachment 1931292
I cannot stress enough to come through at the shallowest angle possible when prying the battery cover with the sewing needle or similar tool.
I have highlighted the points of attack in green, be sure to get in between the two plastic pieces, and gently pry them apart.
Do not get under the entire assembly on accident or try to remove with your finger, it will pop the bottom connector off of the motherboard at the solder points leaving you in a bad situation.
After leaving the battery disconnected for about a minute, and then holding power for a good 10 seconds, I reconnected it and attempted to power on. SUCCESS!! - You can test this with the cover off, so don't make double work for yourself by closing it first.
I hope this helps for a few AT&T LG Optimus G specifics.
Attached should be a zip with a few very large originals if you need a better view.
View attachment 1931327
v/r
Christopher Hurley
SGT, USA
a.k.a [r.]GimP (R - Dot as in Red Dot Society)
YOU SIR ARE A SAINT> i had the exact problem you detailed here with my at&t LGOG, i LGNPST flashed multiple e970 stock roms, and after pulling my hair straight from the follicle, i went out and grabbed the tools, followed your method here and it worked PERFECTLY! THANK YOU GOOD SIR.
So if I pull the battery, wait a minute or two, hold the power down for ten seconds, and then reconnect and nothing happens, and plugging it into a wall charger shows a red flash, does that mean my battery is actually literally dead?
Edit: Also I would recommend following this dude's guide for his plan of attack: http://bit.ly/10VlQWK
I snapped the little bits along the power button and volume. Not a big deal, only aesthetic.. but its something that is avoidable.
Nice. Any idea what caused the boot loop?
i was struggling with ME kernel and rom for about a month. No matter how i wipe and reflash always had reboot/kernel crash/bootloop issues. ME kernel wouldnt even work with the stock rom for me. Now i just run stock rom and kernel, not many issues so far.
swashy said:
So if I pull the battery, wait a minute or two, hold the power down for ten seconds, and then reconnect and nothing happens, and plugging it into a wall charger shows a red flash, does that mean my battery is actually literally dead?
Edit: Also I would recommend following this dude's guide for his plan of attack: http://bit.ly/10VlQWK
I snapped the little bits along the power button and volume. Not a big deal, only aesthetic.. but its something that is avoidable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would disregard 90% of that video because our back comes straight off, this video is not an AT&T Optimus G.
Especially the part where he is prying by the screen. Someone is going to take that literally and destroy their stuff lol.
Anyway. My guess for your question is that you might have ripped the connector off of the board. Check continuity of those pins in the connector and make sure they didn't come off.
Sent from my Optimus G using xda app-developers app
So after my daily workout (watching "Breaking Bad" on the tablet) I managed to let my trusty 201 slip from my hands while taking it off the thin little ledge on my exercise bike console.
BAM, landed right on its corner on the bike's steel support bar.
Now it appears to be functional - except for the small point that the screen don't come on anymore.
Since I cleverly just put a "pattern" lock on it before maiming the poor thing, I can't get it unlocked reliably, but when I press the screenshot button on the keyboard it makes the shutter-click sound.
And I am getting notification bleeps when new mail comes in.
But I'm blind.
I have taken some steps in the past to open it, I did the Wifi antenna thing and tried to get the GPS working (bahahaha what a waste of time THAT was!)... and I've repaired a number of other phones and crap... so I'm not unskilled in this arena.
And I'm sort of optimistically hoping it's just a loose cable or something. There's only the smallest dent in the casing in the corner. No cracks in the screen or anything.
But has anyone gone down this road and maybe has some pointers as to what to look out for? Is there a backlight module that might have popped and just needs replacing?
I'm very sad, this little guy has been my stalwart companion for many, many moons...
Thanks for any input.
R
rprussell said:
So after my daily workout (watching "Breaking Bad" on the tablet) I managed to let my trusty 201 slip from my hands while taking it off the thin little ledge on my exercise bike console.
BAM, landed right on its corner on the bike's steel support bar.
Now it appears to be functional - except for the small point that the screen don't come on anymore.
Since I cleverly just put a "pattern" lock on it before maiming the poor thing, I can't get it unlocked reliably, but when I press the screenshot button on the keyboard it makes the shutter-click sound.
And I am getting notification bleeps when new mail comes in.
But I'm blind.
I have taken some steps in the past to open it, I did the Wifi antenna thing and tried to get the GPS working (bahahaha what a waste of time THAT was!)... and I've repaired a number of other phones and crap... so I'm not unskilled in this arena.
And I'm sort of optimistically hoping it's just a loose cable or something. There's only the smallest dent in the casing in the corner. No cracks in the screen or anything.
But has anyone gone down this road and maybe has some pointers as to what to look out for? Is there a backlight module that might have popped and just needs replacing?
I'm very sad, this little guy has been my stalwart companion for many, many moons...
Thanks for any input.
R
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
flumpster said:
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aha! The hdmi cable. Hadn't occurred to me.
I love this forum.
(Also been using androwook for quite some time, with Data2SD... big fan - very smooth. would hate to lose and/or have to reinstall from scratch though!)
flumpster said:
I have read some similar stories in the past and some times it has just been a cable that has dislodged inside.. Obviously this can vary but I would first try plugging in a hdmi cable to your TV and making sure that the graphics chip is still working.
I'd imagine it would be and your next step would be to open it up and start unplugging and replugging everything you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well - this was a fantastic suggestion, since the HDMI gave me a perfect picture and the thing is (as thought) fully functional.
It was interesting trying to judge where to tap on the tablet to hit certain things on the screen, though.
This is actually quite a load off, since worst case I can get a new screen from ebay.
Thanks again, flumpster - I am much relieved, and you are a god among men!
rprussell said:
Well - this was a fantastic suggestion, since the HDMI gave me a perfect picture and the thing is (as thought) fully functional.
It was interesting trying to judge where to tap on the tablet to hit certain things on the screen, though.
This is actually quite a load off, since worst case I can get a new screen from ebay.
Thanks again, flumpster - I am much relieved, and you are a god among men!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you go mate. I knew I had seen it before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLcxI2JddQ#t=411
This is for the original transformer but they should be nearly the same.
flumpster said:
Here you go mate. I knew I had seen it before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLcxI2JddQ#t=411
This is for the original transformer but they should be nearly the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice!
I have my fingers crossed.
So do my kids, who are going into "Minecraft PE" withdrawal at the moment.
Well, after popping the case, I've disconnected and reconnected everything available - no change in behavior.
I'll try unsticking the LCD and see what else is in there, but it's looking like a more aggressive repair will be in order.
V.sad
PS there's also this vid I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpJs_OI8joA
Arright. Here's my logic. Tell me where I'm wrong.
The video works - the HDMI proved that.
The tablet works - ditto.
Being able to touch and use the tablet shows me that the digitizer is ok, too.
I've reseated all the connectors, but I still can't get a picture.
Therefore, it's the LCD that's gone bad.
Therefore I should order a new LCD.
Right?
rprussell said:
Arright. Here's my logic. Tell me where I'm wrong.
The video works - the HDMI proved that.
The tablet works - ditto.
Being able to touch and use the tablet shows me that the digitizer is ok, too.
I've reseated all the connectors, but I still can't get a picture.
Therefore, it's the LCD that's gone bad.
Therefore I should order a new LCD.
Right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm.. Sounds logical but it could be the power going to the screen or something else that connects the screen. Or does the power etc control the digitizer also ?
flumpster said:
Hmmm.. Sounds logical but it could be the power going to the screen or something else that connects the screen. Or does the power etc control the digitizer also ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, there's one (and only one) ribbon cable feeding the LCD - and two going to the digitizer.
News, though - I pulled out the battery and found another ribbon cable tucked underneath to reseat.
After that, I put it back in and hooked up the LCD - and it came up!!
Sort of, anyway. It lit up enough to show me the spiderweb of cracks all along the bottom edge.
(I think I found my problem.)
Now off to eBay to shop for a replacement... I hope I didn't munge up anything else in there while I was mucking around!
rprussell said:
Well, there's one (and only one) ribbon cable feeding the LCD - and two going to the digitizer.
News, though - I pulled out the battery and found another ribbon cable tucked underneath to reseat.
After that, I put it back in and hooked up the LCD - and it came up!!
Sort of, anyway. It lit up enough to show me the spiderweb of cracks all along the bottom edge.
(I think I found my problem.)
Now off to eBay to shop for a replacement... I hope I didn't munge up anything else in there while I was mucking around!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See if someone is selling a bricked Tf201 of TF300 that you can get the screen out of.
My z2 tablet is working in background, i also see pictures when i use mhl to hdmi cable on tv..but not working in original lcd, no backlight and no picture at all.
I really appreciate if someone know where is located fuze for lcd picture and for backlight in z2 tablet motherboard
Just fixed mine with a little help from your pic, I managed to knock off a component removing shield, your pic confirmed this. the fuse is under the metal shield above the connector in your pic, near the top Right corner. It has a Z marked on it. Mine had tiny burn mark in middle of fuse. I shorted it out using powerful microscope and tiny soldering iron tip, not easy, now got working backlight again. popped mine changing lcd and forgot to disconnect battery. would send pic but its all back together now. hope this helps.
Just noticed date you posted this, Better late than never... lol
Same here.
No Backlight.
Tried to follow @Floydy69 ..... SUCCESS!
The Fuse is very small and hard to find, but I used a very good Microscope and Light.
Where did you get the Information about the Location for the Fuse?
Thank you so much!
My good old Tab is back again, very nice.
Actrapit said:
Same here.
No Backlight.
Tried to follow @Floydy69 ..... SUCCESS!
The Fuse is very small and hard to find, but I used a very good Microscope and Light.
Where did you get the Information about the Location for the Fuse?
Thank you so much!
My good old Tab is back again, very nice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad it helped somebody, i was stuck at taking an educated guess without Dadovvv's picture, thanks again. No info, much experience, patience, testing and probing and as you said, a "very good microscope" i finally found a slight discoloration on it, no signs of it blowing like your pic shows. it measured about 500 ohms, though I did have back light voltage, just not enough volts to light up the screen. Had mine since new, its had 2 lcd's, a few touch panels and a battery but still lives... just
Very fine!
Did you glue your Digitizers yourself?
I think you must have a very big Heatplate to do so!?
I just have a 10x10cm, quite too small for 10" Screens.....
And yes, my "Z" Fuse had 1megaOhm and sometimes less than 1kOhm.
I was frightend to short it, but you helped me a lot with that! Thanks again!
My Tab was out of Order for more than a year, but now i am going to put LOS 18.1 on it and see how it goes!
An other thing happend on my Other Z2Tab:
I Had problems with Charging for a long Time, but not too bad. So reason to dismantle it was not really given. But days ago suddenly it shuts of with a Temperatur Warning.
Here on XDA for Z2 PHONES i found the Solution:
Just resolder the Battery Connector for the 3 Negative Wires. It is just the white cable from negative that was loose. It theems to be the Battery Temp-Sensor.
After that it charges like new and Batt. Temp is mosty under 36degree.
Now my very old Battery lasts much longer than bevore.
I alwasy used the 2Pin Magnetic Charger Cable with 2amps wallsocket charger.
Easy to do, and really worth it!
Did you ever try LOS on a Z2Tab without 4G!
Dear all,
Firstly, I tried to clean the ports as usual, as they gets dirty after one month us continous usage and sporting - but not helped this time.
Looks my watch did not survived after only washing my hands ( never swimmed with them ).
They are still 100% operating, but can not be charged. Even when pluged to PC, now it shows message as unrecognized device (before windows normaly recognized them)
And I can see, battery is getting faster to reach zero %.
Did someone (with bricked watch) tried to open them, or you got some clue HOW TO?
I can then pass them to our engineers in foxconn, to study and find possible solution.
Thanks for any advice.
dodes19 said:
Dear all,
Firstly, I tried to clean the ports as usual, as they gets dirty after one month us continous usage and sporting - but not helped this time.
Looks my watch did not survived after only washing my hands ( never swimmed with them ).
They are still 100% operating, but can not be charged. Even when pluged to PC, now it shows message as unrecognized device (before windows normaly recognized them)
And I can see, battery is getting faster to reach zero %.
Did someone (with bricked watch) tried to open them, or you got some clue HOW TO?
I can then pass them to our engineers in foxconn, to study and find possible solution.
Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn it off, wrap in a thin cloth and put it under the sun for a few days, maybe it'll help
malimukk said:
Turn it off, wrap in a thin cloth and put it under the sun for a few days, maybe it'll help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thanks, I´ll give a try...
First day on direct sunlight passed (shiny +31 degrees all day) - no change, still not charging, error message after connecting to PC, remaining 14 percent battery
tomorrow I will continue...
If anybody have some suggestion, please let me know
THANKS
dodes19 said:
If anybody have some suggestion, please let me know
THANKS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the small spring connectors on the docking has the same height. (in case some of them are somewhat stuck)
I usually also clean the ports on the watch with a wooden toothpick.
nogge69 said:
Check that the small spring connectors on the docking has the same height. (in case some of them are somewhat stuck)
I usually also clean the ports on the watch with a wooden toothpick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
as I wrote, I was cleaning them usually (written in the topic) and as PC can detect watch after connection, means docking connectors are OK - anyway thanks
Finally, I managed to open the watch and found root cause of charging issue.
Touching pin from inside of plastic cover was stacked somehow and not reaching properly to FFC charging poitns (no idea how this damage is possible to happen from inside of watch).
No water leak as it was expected, so at least this point is fine to realize - waterproof OK
I made some pictures, how the watch look like from inside - if somebody is interested in.
Please post pictures, they'd be useful. You're referring to the pins in picture #1 not making contact with the internal pads of the PCB in picture #2 ?
VAXXi said:
Please post pictures, they'd be useful. You're referring to the pins in picture #1 not making contact with the internal pads of the PCB in picture #2 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, exactly...one on the right side of cover is stacked. When I directly put 5V onto +/- pad on the watch, it started to charge...so i only need to fix pin.
Oh, I understand now. Thank you for the pictures, looks to be kind of difficult to fix without opening the watch; perhaps some light, directed tapping on the pad would work.
VAXXi said:
Oh, I understand now. Thank you for the pictures, looks to be kind of difficult to fix without opening the watch; perhaps some light, directed tapping on the pad would work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm...in this case, I think only possibility to fix is to open. Realy depends how it is stacked...mine is pretty solid and hard to release even now when I opened it and got room to touch. Opening of watch itself was pretty hard, well sticked , protected against dust, water and aligned...nice job from xiaomi I must say.
dodes19 said:
hmm...in this case, I think only possibility to fix is to open. Realy depends how it is stacked...mine is pretty solid and hard to release even now when I opened it and got room to touch. Opening of watch itself was pretty hard, well sticked , protected against dust, water and aligned...nice job from xiaomi I must say.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the pictures, interesting.
So for the big question, have you managed to get it back together again, without issues?
(i guess you have to clean and reapply glue/silicone)
nogge69 said:
Thanks for the pictures, interesting.
So for the big question, have you managed to get it back together again, without issues?
(i guess you have to clean and reapply glue/silicone)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now back cover is only freely pushed to watch and placed into docking station - wrapped all around by tape to hold position.
15 minutes ago fully charged, so from this point of view working.
Just to update: pin was not stacked, but finally I found out, that spring inside of this pin was broken.
Now, I will paste transparent contact glue (water resistant) and stick together - it is supposed to have same resistance as before, even I did not tested it so much under water
So I believe for my purposes of usage (only runing and biking) I will handle all my needs.
Anyone knows if there are spare pins somewhere?
Mine has 2 pins which are pretty corroded and now I cannot connect the watch to the PC.
Lucky I can still charge it
zangaby said:
Anyone knows if there are spare pins somewhere?
Mine has 2 pins which are pretty corroded and now I cannot connect the watch to the PC.
Lucky I can still charge it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simple workaround: graphite (temporary) or conductive/silver paste (glue).
Thank you for your advice.
I was hoping to replace them to have a cleaner look.
I found the pins here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20-...1d-4765-bdec-d8632028f24c&transAbTest=ae803_5
But I don't know the size.