Does there exist any sort of range extender or repeater?
When I am on the opposite side of the house, or outside mowing the lawn with phone charging, I miss notifications.
Cheetohz said:
Does there exist any sort of range extender or repeater?
When I am on the opposite side of the house, or outside mowing the lawn with phone charging, I miss notifications.
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If your device has WiFi and cloud syncing is enabled, any WiFi you can connect with your phone will work. Of course, if you do need an WiFi extender, there are many: WDS usually only work reliably if all routers are the same brand and the best one would be extenders that use the electrical wires (common power plugs in house) to extend the WiFi range but they are more expensive.
WiFi
Make use of the WiFi feature on the watch. While the phone is near, configure WiFi using your phone.
After configuration, if the watch is near phone you can turn off the WiFi on watch as it consumes more battery and notifications come directly from phone via bluetooth.
While you are far from watch, turn on the WiFi so that notifications come for the apps you have installed on your watch. This may not include notification while you get calls or text messages. Hope this helps.
Related
Right, can someone help me out with Tasker. Please *I need to setup some profiles. *Basically, I've got 2 phones and my car will only connect to 1 at a time. Think of this as a logical puzzle
If both phones have bluetooth on when the car starts, which ever phone connects first will connect. If bluetooth is off on one then the other will connect.
My problem. I only want phone W to connect to the cars bluetooth between 8:30 – 18:00, Monday - Friday. Phone P should be connected to the car outside of these time frames, AND if phone W is not present in the time frames above.
So, any ideas how I can do this with minimal battery drain? I could use NFC however I'd like to avoid if possible
Nobody?
Evostance said:
Right, can someone help me out with Tasker. Please *I need to setup some profiles. *Basically, I've got 2 phones and my car will only connect to 1 at a time. Think of this as a logical puzzle
If both phones have bluetooth on when the car starts, which ever phone connects first will connect. If bluetooth is off on one then the other will connect.
My problem. I only want phone W to connect to the cars bluetooth between 8:30 – 18:00, Monday - Friday. Phone P should be connected to the car outside of these time frames, AND if phone W is not present in the time frames above.
So, any ideas how I can do this with minimal battery drain? I could use NFC however I'd like to avoid if possible
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I don't have this issue, but here are my 2 cents, hopefully they are worth at least that.
For Phone W, create a profile that turns bluetooth on during the specified hours and days of the week.
Pair Phone P with Phone W. Then create a profile on P that will try to connect the two phones. If they connect, then Phone P turns bluetooth off. This should keep your work phone connected to your car when you need it. Have another profile to turn Phone P's bluetooth on everyday at 1800. That should prevent you from having to turn it on except when you don't need Phone W during specific hours. Unfortunately, it basically means Phone P will always have bluetooth off from 830-1800 and you'll have to turn off Phone W's bluetooth before Phone P's.comes on.
Or, buy a bluetooh speaker that can handle two phones simultaneously.
I have Jaybird Freedom Sprint Bluetooth headsets that I use to workout with. I tried pairing with them on my Omate. It will pair but the sound still comes out of the speaker on the watch. Is there something I can do to fix that as the headset works great. Thanks for any help!
I have have a pair of Jaybirds, and mine did the same thing. What worked was the Omate ran out of juice and after recharging and Turing back on it has worked perfectly every since. You may also need to to set the Jaybirds as default for miix and phone calls under Bluetooth settings.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where the heck are the bluetooth settings, not quite in your face if you know what I mean.
Yeah, so I don't see in the watch where those Bluetooth settings are to set the Jaybird up as default. Maybe you can help guide me to where that is. Not sure if it matters but it is stock. I also drained the battery but it didn't do anything. If you have a speific process maybe you could lay it out for me and see what happens. Thanks again for the help!
Go to settings. Then wireless and networks. Then Bluetooth. Select Jaybird make sure phone and media audio are selected.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I found the options and it was set as you stated above. Still didn't connect. But, I did a hard reset and tried again and it wored fine, now the issue is that when I turn the headsets on they should connect to the watch but doesnt automatically and I have to re-pair each time.
Glad you got it to work. Not sure why you have to repair each time.
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I have a bluetooth problem too. My 1/8 2100 (stock firmware) Truesmart pairs with my LogiLink BT0026 headset but i can play music only within a distance of about 10cm. It disconnects on a higher range. Same with the connection to my PC. The headset connects normally to my other devices. Any ideas???
gabbadoo said:
I have a bluetooth problem too. My 1/8 2100 (stock firmware) Truesmart pairs with my LogiLink BT0026 headset but i can play music only within a distance of about 10cm. It disconnects on a higher range. Same with the connection to my PC. The headset connects normally to my other devices. Any ideas???
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I have the earlier 1/8 US firmware. I use the Altec Lansing Backbeat 903 Bluetooth(Also sold as Plantronics under same model name and number) headset that I picked up from a garage sale today. Great Bluetooth stereo sound! I absolutely get no sound cuts when worn on my wrist(Which is 2ft away when arm extended) no matter how I move my arms. Have you tried disabling the quickboot feature in Settings >> System >> Accessibility? That feature is causing problems with wifi and bluetooth due to the firmware from what I've been told before.
Thx for your reply! :good:
I tried disabling the quickboot feature and also flashed Loki's EnSec-firmware, but the problem is still the same. :crying:
I have come to the conclusion that we can't always blame the truesmart with the bluetooth issues. I have a bluetooth audio receiver plugged into my hifi system but I can only stream to it in very close contact i.e. about 10cm maxiumum. However same setup on watch connected to my August EP60 headphones (which are amazing btw) yielded very different results. After connectin established I started music streaming and took off my watch and leaving it downstairs went for a walk round my house including upstairs. No loss of connection with several meters distance and no dropouts at all. Happy because I bought the August EP60's specifically to use with Truesmart.
:good:
Hi,
I'm listening to music from my TS through my bluetooth earphones right now... apart from the occasional split second stutter, I'm very impressed.... I can see how this would be a killer device for the gym or joggers etc, I'm so impressed im going to try and find a smaller pair than my backbeats!
movieifx said:
I have come to the conclusion that we can't always blame the truesmart with the bluetooth issues. I have a bluetooth audio receiver plugged into my hifi system but I can only stream to it in very close contact i.e. about 10cm maxiumum. However same setup on watch connected to my August EP60 headphones (which are amazing btw) yielded very different results. After connectin established I started music streaming and took off my watch and leaving it downstairs went for a walk round my house including upstairs. No loss of connection with several meters distance and no dropouts at all. Happy because I bought the August EP60's specifically to use with Truesmart.
:good:
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Good to hear this, so i still have hope.
What's about your WiFi connection... my maximum range is 3 to 5 meters away from the router (same room, no walls between).
With my stock TrueSmart I get Bluetooth solid from 3 rooms, 32 ft min before blittiness starts. WiFi is even farther.
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Bluetooth and WiFi range problem solved!
My problem is finally solved.! I removed the pin of the wristband in which the antenna is located and found that both black wires were scratched. I isolated them with a small peace of tape and now it works great for me.
gabbadoo said:
My problem is finally solved.! I removed the pin of the wristband in which the antenna is located and found that both black wires were scratched. I isolated them with a small peace of tape and now it works great for me.
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Just took mine apart for the second time and found the same connector lose again, hopefully sorted properly this time. How did you get the wristband pins out, mine don't seem to have screw heads.
I hope I'm posting this in the right sub-forum, since I think this is not a device-specific problem.
So, I recently bought a Parrot AR.Drone 2.0 and as you probably know, the Drone can be controlled via an Android App (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.parrot.freeflight). First I simply tried the app with the default touch controls, but it was not precise enough and I missed the tactile feedback. Then I had the idea of connecting my PS3 controller with the Sixaxis app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dancingpixelstudios.sixaxiscontroller) to my phone (Moto G 2nd Gen., 2014, Dual SIM variant) and controlling the Drone with that. And here comes my problem:
If I have only Wifi enabled on my phone I can fly about 25-30m with the Drone
If I enable Bluetooth (to use the PS3 controller) and Wifi the distance drops to about 10m and I get a lot of connectivity issues to the drone.
I also tried my ASUS Transformer Prime (TF201), that's even worse. As soon as I turn on Bluetooth the Wifi signal drops to almost nothing.
I have found others with similar problems (for example: http://android.stackexchange.com/qu...wifi-reception-severely-affected-by-bluetooth or here: http://forums.androidcentral.com/sa...-samsung-galaxy-tab-s-10-5-wifi-problems.html).
Can anybody explain why the Wifi quality drops (massively) when Bluetooth is turned on?
I was experimenting a little more this weekend and the issue is definitely there. I was outside of the city, where there was no other Wifi or anything. Looked at the networks with Wifi Analyzer before and after turning Bluetooth on. Without BT all channels had max. rating, with BT on they all dropped to 1-2 stars...
I ordered my very first smartwatch from the UK Motorola website and thought I would jump on the bandwagon of the new mobile technology. I settled with the Moto 360 2 after the LG Urban 2 came off for hardware issues but I'm not totally satisfied how it works and whether I'm benefiting much. Now I don't know if this is a bug or whether this is how it connects but, when I turn the Bluetooth off on my phone it switches to WiFi as expected. However, as soon as I turn the WiFi off on the phone, the SmartWatch shows a cloud icon with a line going through it saying disconnected. What's weird is the in the watch's settings the Wi-Fi is clearly connected, but as soon as I cut the connection off from my phone whether it's Bluetooth or WiFi the watch can't work independently. Is this normal? I know its primarily a device to push notifications to your wrist but surely I can get more use our of this watch that that?
Will
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I think you're right, it should work without WiFi and Bluetooth on your phone enabled. I also have a new watch and have tried the steps you describe and it connects just fine.
not sure why this is happening but i noticed my mi box is not working
then when i go into setting i see that the wifi is turned off in wifi setting i have to switch it back on
it is getting really annoying since i use this box to run some smarthome bridge apps
not sure why this keeps happening ,the box is right next to my router and is connected to the 5ghz band
so it should not be dropping the connection
but lets say it is dropping the connection ,then why if the wifi turned OFF ? if it drops won;t it just reconnect automatically?
are there any hidden setting i can check or change to correct this or is there some app i can sideload to fix it?
gdroid666 said:
not sure why this keeps happening ,the box is right next to my router and is connected to the 5ghz band
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Signal overload? Try moving them at least a few feet apart? Only SWAG I got. Other than have you tried a factory reset on the MiBox?
jseymour said:
Signal overload? Try moving them at least a few feet apart? Only SWAG I got. Other than have you tried a factory reset on the MiBox?
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no don't want to factory reset it
it took days to get anymote setup on it was the biggest hassle ever
no way i am going through that again
yeah it is like a foot from the router
but the thing is if it dropped wifi then isn't it supposed to reconnect on it's own or at the very least not switch the wifi to off on the settings?
Signal overload can sometimes have odd effects on hardware and the software that drives it. E.g.: Got a guy over in the Silicon Dust forums had a HDHomeRun device crashing on tuning a particular channel. He put a splitter in-line to allow him to do A:B comparisons with another device on the same antenna and the problem went away. (Splitters introduce a >1/N signal strength loss.)
jseymour said:
Signal overload can sometimes have odd effects on hardware and the software that drives it. E.g.: Got a guy over in the Silicon Dust forums had a HDHomeRun device crashing on tuning a particular channel. He put a splitter in-line to allow him to do A:B comparisons with another device on the same antenna and the problem went away. (Splitters introduce a >1/N signal strength loss.)
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but HDMI is a wired connection
wifi is wireless can
and does android really turn the wifi off if signal overload?
it did it again today i am thinking of just looking for a workaround
like maybe an automation app that i can set that if wifi turns off it turns back on again
maybe i can do it with macrodroid ,i have not used it ia long time but think it may have the right options
do you hav eany other app suggestion that might work?
other is option is that i could use a UBS to ethernet but will it slow my connection since it is USB 2.0 ?
i have a USB to ethernet adapter but i'm not sure if it will even work and it is not gigabit
not sure if it could even make us of a gigabit USB ethernet because of USB being 2.0
gdroid666 said:
but HDMI is a wired connection
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HDMI? The Silicon Dust HDHomeRuns are OTA (broadcast) and cable network tuners. They take OTA or cable channels and put them on a LAN. They have no HDMI connections.
The guy in question put a cable splitter on the cable from his OTA antenna so he could feed the HDHR network tuner and a Hauppague card at the same time. This results in a greater than 3dB (50%) signal reduction to each receiving device.
gdroid666 said:
wifi is wireless can
and does android really turn the wifi off if signal overload?
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I did not suggest it does. Please read more carefully. I wrote "Signal overload can sometimes have odd effects on hardware and the software that drives it. " The implication being the hardware and/or software misbehaves.
Btw: That MiBox is unshielded. Being as it has internal antennas, it would have to be. That means that when you locate it right next to a transmitter you're bombarding the entire PC board with RF from that transmitter. (Coincidentally: You're doing your WiFi router's performance no favours by locating it directly next to another strong source of RF, either.)
All this is a Scientific Wild-Ass Guess based on nothing more than five decades of experience with a wide range of all kinds of hardware and, later, software, and seeing some of the most unexpected things happen. (See below for recent example.)
It's either that or the thing's simply broken.
How hard could it possibly be just to move the two apart by a few feet to test my hypothesis? N.B.: Signal strength decreases at the square of the distance (inverse square law). Thus, if you move it four feet away, as opposed to two, that second move doesn't halve the signal over the two foot move, but quarters it.
gdroid666 said:
i am thinking of just looking for a workaround
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It's always better to fix it than patch it, if possible.
From the Department of Well, That Was Unexpected
I recently obtained a Silicon Dust HDHomeRun Connect Quatro network tuner. First thing I did was go to one of our traditionally most problematical channels to see how it'd perform. It was horrible. I assumed it was due to poor tuner performance. Boxed everything up to send it back. But I was persuaded to look more closely. I discovered it was actually performing better than my other tuners, and the problem appeared to be with just the one station. That station, it turned out, had a mere 60Hz carrier deviation. Insignificant. (0.000009%) They corrected it, anyway. Station reception cleaned right up. I would never have expected that in a million years.