Related
Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
keithgrobertson said:
Hi there,
I searched before posting this, but couldn't find anything for the Atrix...
Just wondering if anyone has seen/made a guide to replace the Glass/digitizer for the Motorola Atrix?
As to why I'm asking:
(If the image links don't work, you can find them as attachments to this post)
I've damaged the plastic around the glass (basically the housing, near the usb port) but I need to remove it from the digitizer...
I bought this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572442&stc=1&d=1303199913
But as the ifixit teardown guide shows...
(http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=572441&stc=1&d=1303199913),
...When you take the phone apart, the glass is one with the housing.. Has anyone done this replacement of the digitizer or housing, if so, can you offer any suggestions, and what you used as adhesive to reattach the digitizer?
I've repaired the iPhone 3Gs and iPhone 4 before, both ranking higher in difficulty on ifixit's site, so I'm guessing the ATRIX should be a lot easier...
Anyways, any helpful tips or any guides would be greatly appreciated. I've already checked Google but no luck...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
Or, this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbR56jSplRs
Broke my digitizer and did the job myself using the youtube guide above. Just used straight up superglue to glue digitizer to frame. I put a bunch on the top and bottom and very little on the sides.
Amazingly the phone worked when i put it back together... for a while until I screwed up one of the ribbons by opening it a bunch more times. Be extra careful with these, especially the volume/camera ribbon. You can bend it pretty easily trying to slide it back into its slot.
Good luck.
NB: Theres places that will do it for as little as $90 in case you don't want to take the risk.
http://www.ubreakifix.com/
Thanks for posting the youtube link. I can't even quote the post because it involves an external link. The video was vague on details and the quality is crap but it did the trick.
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from amazon and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Metacat said:
My Arix got under the tires of a car (please dont ask how ) and only the digitizer broke, then i replace it with an OEM digitizer from ebay and now the proximity sensor is malfunctioning (Turns off the screen when im not near it or doesnt turns off when im near it), and there is a line of the screen that doesn't respond to tact. could it be the digitizer that came defective, or maybe it was the installation? oh, the other digitizer was broken and all but the light sensor was working fine and also the other thing. Sorry for my bad grammar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replaced my digitizer, and had the EXACT same thing happen (not the light sensor but the line in the screen that doesnt respond to touch).
Get a new digitizer, but get it from someone else.
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Metacat said:
That's what i feared, did you changed it back again afther that, and did it worked? and thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. I sold it and let someone else deal with it. Didn't have the time to replace the digitizer again. Too much of a hassle.
I just replaced a digitizer on an atrix... i didnt put any adhesive on it because there was what i thought was adhesive strips on the digitizer... but there's strips on the screen that doesnt respond, i heated it n tried reattaching the digitizer a few times n sometimes the home and back button will work, sometimes they wont... any suggestions? could the lack of adhesive cause this?
Menu buttons problem
if menu buttons is freeze till I block and then unblock my phone is it digitizer problem ?
what do you mean by " block/unblock" ?
Sent from my HTC Desire CDMA using XDA
He means lock/unlock.
Go the ifixit route!
Just went through 3 digitizers in my repair, and wanted to share my experience/caveats
I bought one digitizer from All4Cellular for $25, and the others with a 20% discount a few days later, for $20.
I installed
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Got the idea to move the LCD screen from another RepairUniverse YouTube video and a previous post here, and tried installing the digitizer from the front face of the phone. It was still a delicate matter to bend the flex cable so that it fit through the slot, and then re-position the LCD and align the sticky strips of the digitizer on the LCD and casing. Part of the digitizer worked this time - a 1cm vertical strip on the left fowled any attempt to touch icons or use a keyboard, so I thought I had damaged things again (doh!).
Hoping third time was the charm, I completely disassembled the phone using the guide in the 'ifixit' link, since a digitizer/case assembly was suggested in another thread. The rear camera just needs to be raised above the casing so the thin plate can move upward, and the LCD pops out easily if the sides of the casing are delicately pulled. The digitizer can be positioned easily and with minimal bending/twisting of the flex cables.
When reconnecting everything the third time, I noticed that pressing down on the front camera / digitizer connection *with the rubber boot in place* didn't pass when pulling the connected assembly upward. So I pulled the rubber boot out of the way and snapped the camera / digitizer connection firmly, then re-inserted the boot. A loose connection might have been the culprit for the nonfunctioning part of the digitizer in the second test.
@MrSaba - I had the same issue with capacitive buttons - perhaps because the screen senses touch and disables those buttons. Replacing the digitizer solved the issue
trouble
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
drZeT said:
Hello friends,
Here's my story - broke a screen, as usual slipped from my pocket. though broken, digitizer worked fine. after replacement with new one (digitizer only) - no luck it didn't work. bought a new one, this time with a plastic part around it to avoid damage to it's cable. after careful repair no luck once again - does not work at all. downloaded a testing app (i was able to remote control the phone with a piece of soft called androidscreencast), everything is ok, except digitizer. checked and rechecked all ribbons and connectors 10 times, nothing seems to be broken or twisted.
what's your opinion, is it worth buying third one ? what part of my repair went wrong ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
jjwatmyself said:
Not all digitizers are created equal. The ones that ship with the red stripe on the backing are junk. Spend more money and yes buying with a frame is key. Did you try reinstalling the original screen or did that ship sail already?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The first one was with the red stripe indeed, from china. The one with a frame came from UK, "used but tested OK". original screen is gone - tore off flex cable while removing.
Well, update...
2 screens bought on eBay were BAD. Had to wait full month for authorised motorola service to change the digitizer. Must say though that both merchants on ebay refunded, no questions asked. Lessons learned - pay more, wait longer, never give up
DrJCFitz said:
the first using the RepairUniverse Youtube 'how-to' method, and had a heck of a time threading the flex cables through the slot. Bent/twisted it too much, and nothing responded on the touchscreen, so I read some forum posts on how fragile they were, and regarded that as user error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I noticed on their video was that their folded digitizer connector magically unseats itself during the disassembly transition. I had to pry mine off based purely on guesswork and think I might have broken the flip-chip that is stuck onto the frame with double-sided tape. Like yours, my touchscreen doesn't respond at all, despite there being no cable tears. I'm going to try and re-heat that flip chip and maybe get the connections to work again (doubtful).
To anyone else out there attempting this... when you go to remove the touchscreen, HEAT THE CONNECTOR so that you can gently pry it out!
Bad screen I got 3 before it worked its fine now if old one partially works new one doesn't screen is junk took mine apart several times to figure out screens were junk...guess they felt sorry for me give me my money back plus free working screen.from amazon
Also that lock clamp u mentioned first video I watched didn't show unlocking that I just pulled it out and pushed back in it was the 2 screen that I figured out it needed to be pryed loose by the white clamp but guess I didn't damage it..
Sent from my HTC One X+ using xda premium
I have just put in my second digitiser. The first was one had a red stripe, which was junk, the second on I bought had the plastic round the edge and the digitiser.
I put it in and it worked fine no dead spots at all. Then 12 hours in it started to stop working intermittently. Then 24 hours after that while on charge its dead again. I reflashed notattrix and still nothing. I've confirmed all the ribbon connectors are firmly in place and everything looks right.
Any ideas whats wrong?
thanks
Jonnym
Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
Got my prime, got it rooted, NVFlashed and all that good stuff, and was enjoying it until the digitizer and LCD broke. Can't seem to find a decent priced LCD/digitizer combo anywhere.
Should I hold onto it, or sell it? Anyone know where to find a cheapy combo for LCD and digitizer?
Nightpath said:
Got my prime, got it rooted, NVFlashed and all that good stuff, and was enjoying it until the digitizer and LCD broke. Can't seem to find a decent priced LCD/digitizer combo anywhere.
Should I hold onto it, or sell it? Anyone know where to find a cheapy combo for LCD and digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, we seem to have what's necessary to make 1 functional TF201.
You'll see this is only my second post. My other post here is regarding swapping a new LCD into my TF201 due to it getting cracked by a rack on a ship (digitizer survived oddly). Well, I got a new LCD, but now the damn thing won't turn on. It's been an 8 month project trying to source a new LCD and to meet this sort of obstacle at the final moment is utterly depressing, and I'm pretty much done with this tablet.
So, I have a TF201 64GB with (as far as I know) functional LCD and digitizer. I have no idea what's wrong the rest of the hardware though. It's completely non-responsive. I'm very angry as I just spent 8 months (as I said) and $125 on this new LCD and the damn thing still doesn't work.
If you want it we can work something out. Or, alternatively, if you want to sell yours, let me know. I'll PM you my email (provided I can PM here with 2 posts, lol).
Nightpath said:
Got my prime, got it rooted, NVFlashed and all that good stuff, and was enjoying it until the digitizer and LCD broke. Can't seem to find a decent priced LCD/digitizer combo anywhere.
Should I hold onto it, or sell it? Anyone know where to find a cheapy combo for LCD and digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
id suggest that the best thing to do is sell it for parts... ive not seen anyone get a good price and do well with replacing the digitizer..
Hawke84 said:
id suggest that the best thing to do is sell it for parts... ive not seen anyone get a good price and do well with replacing the digitizer..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While it's true that the digitizer and LCD are held together by double-sided foam, it's not terribly difficult to separate the two. I have heard of a lot of people having trouble with it, but using a xacto blade to cut the foam worked perfectly for me. Once the two were separated, I was able to test that they both worked, despite the LCD screen being cracked (meh...).
On reassembly, using 3mm double-sided foam (found it on amazon) worked pretty well too.
I've read about the inverted X-axis issues people are having with replacement digitizers, and that's terrible. I had a lot of trouble finding the correct LCD as well, as the HSD101PWW2 comes in at least 2 different versions. The common one found on ebay isn't compatible due to a different connector, and I was only able to find a new LCD from a broken TF201.
USNGoat said:
While it's true that the digitizer and LCD are held together by double-sided foam, it's not terribly difficult to separate the two. I have heard of a lot of people having trouble with it, but using a xacto blade to cut the foam worked perfectly for me. Once the two were separated, I was able to test that they both worked, despite the LCD screen being cracked (meh...).
On reassembly, using 3mm double-sided foam (found it on amazon) worked pretty well too.
I've read about the inverted X-axis issues people are having with replacement digitizers, and that's terrible. I had a lot of trouble finding the correct LCD as well, as the HSD101PWW2 comes in at least 2 different versions. The common one found on ebay isn't compatible due to a different connector, and I was only able to find a new LCD from a broken TF201.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's the rev of your LCD? Rev 0-A01? It's on the sticker that you got the HSD part number from.
I replaced my LCD with one (Rev 0-A01) that I bought from an eBay seller in the U.S. (seems like almost ALL of them are in China). It did not come with double-sided foam tape (thought that it *may* have come pre-attached with removable waxed strips covering the side that sticks to the digitizer). I went ahead and mounted the LCD using just the 4 philips screws. I thought that I might have light bleed doing this, but I didn't want to have to find tape. No light bleed. *BONUS* this LCD can now be easily removed if I need to in the future.
Do you have a Rev 0-A01?
I found a working replacement digitizer, it's when I looked closer when I was going to replace it I noticed that the LCD was cracked. Soon as I touched the back of it it went apesh*t.
So I'm returning the digitizer, and going to get rid of the Prime. Going to buy a laptop. Since the Prime has seen probably 30 hours of usage, it's still pretty new except for the screen. Even have the GPS dongle (never had many wifi issues like most people).
Since most of the busted ones sell on eBay for $250ish (that I've found when the bids end, that includes shipping) I'll probably ask for a bit lower than that, with shipping included.
Mine is the 32gig model, GPS dongle and cable, etc included. I'll burn off the NVFlash blob as well, in case you flash another android version on it and need recovery.
Jgrimoldy said:
What's the rev of your LCD? Rev 0-A01? It's on the sticker that you got the HSD part number from.
I replaced my LCD with one (Rev 0-A01) that I bought from an eBay seller in the U.S. (seems like almost ALL of them are in China). It did not come with double-sided foam tape (thought that it *may* have come pre-attached with removable waxed strips covering the side that sticks to the digitizer). I went ahead and mounted the LCD using just the 4 philips screws. I thought that I might have light bleed doing this, but I didn't want to have to find tape. No light bleed. *BONUS* this LCD can now be easily removed if I need to in the future.
Do you have a Rev 0-A01?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, Rev 0-A01. I found mine through a reputable LCD vendor's website. They initially sent me a screen compatible with the other version (I can't remember the model number) but it wasn't compatible with the TF201. So I sent it back, and 4 months later they seem to have found a cache of screens, which I received one of.
I would also like to point out that they still have some available, but I won't post the link as I don't want to infringe on any rules here. But if you need a screen they are out there, you've just got to look a little.
USNGoat said:
Yes, Rev 0-A01. I found mine through a reputable LCD vendor's website. They initially sent me a screen compatible with the other version (I can't remember the model number) but it wasn't compatible with the TF201. So I sent it back, and 4 months later they seem to have found a cache of screens, which I received one of.
I would also like to point out that they still have some available, but I won't post the link as I don't want to infringe on any rules here. But if you need a screen they are out there, you've just got to look a little.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, USNGoat. I'm good. Mine's repaired and functioning. I just had a tough time finding compatible parts from US sources. I had misunderstood your post, thinking that you still needed one.
-jg
Jgrimoldy said:
Thanks, USNGoat. I'm good. Mine's repaired and functioning. I just had a tough time finding compatible parts from US sources. I had misunderstood your post, thinking that you still needed one.
-jg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh no, yeah, I've got a good screen and digitizer. Just won't turn on now for some reason. Charges (with LED confirming charge level) but power button/power button and down volume/reset pin do nothing. Plugged it into my W7 box, and Windows throws a misconfiguration error when trying to mount it. Something happened to it, unfortunately, between the time when I took it apart and when I finally got a good LCD. There's not a whole lot of troubleshooting info either in terms of individual components because most people just send them in to Asus for repair.
---------- Post added at 08:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:36 PM ----------
Nightpath said:
I found a working replacement digitizer, it's when I looked closer when I was going to replace it I noticed that the LCD was cracked. Soon as I touched the back of it it went apesh*t.
So I'm returning the digitizer, and going to get rid of the Prime. Going to buy a laptop. Since the Prime has seen probably 30 hours of usage, it's still pretty new except for the screen. Even have the GPS dongle (never had many wifi issues like most people).
Since most of the busted ones sell on eBay for $250ish (that I've found when the bids end, that includes shipping) I'll probably ask for a bit lower than that, with shipping included.
Mine is the 32gig model, GPS dongle and cable, etc included. I'll burn off the NVFlash blob as well, in case you flash another android version on it and need recovery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, I'll watch the MP here assuming you're selling it here. I'm watching a few other places too, trying to find a donor.
There are some really nice ultrabooks out now days, I wish you luck.
Since it still works, and it's no hassle with bidding, already NVFlashed with blobs on disc, GPS dongle and about 30hrs use on it (if that) I think I'll ask about $200+, that includes the shipping to Canada/US.
Nightpath said:
Since it still works, and it's no hassle with bidding, already NVFlashed with blobs on disc, GPS dongle and about 30hrs use on it (if that) I think I'll ask about $200+, that includes the shipping to Canada/US.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But the buyer will still need to lay out around $200 for a new digitizer and LCD and then install, right? Sounds considerably high. Unless you're also including a keyboard/dock, it might be a hard sell. The less than 30 hours of use doesn't amount to much when you consider that it's substantially broken. I don't care (much) that a car has les than 15K if it's been totaled and I need to do the body work. The mileage is of substantially less conern than it would be.
'Just sayin'
Jgrimoldy said:
But the buyer will still need to lay out around $200 for a new digitizer and LCD and then install, right? Sounds considerably high. Unless you're also including a keyboard/dock, it might be a hard sell. The less than 30 hours of use doesn't amount to much when you consider that it's substantially broken. I don't care (much) that a car has les than 15K if it's been totaled and I need to do the body work. The mileage is of substantially less conern than it would be.
'Just sayin'
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If someone has a bricked prime it might be of interest. It's why I said PM me, prices aren't set in stone.
Nightpath said:
If someone has a bricked prime it might be of interest. It's why I said PM me, prices aren't set in stone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Selling it as is for $180, or best offer. Shipping can be negotiated. It's over on the marketplace boards.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=33551933#post33551933
Nightpath said:
Selling it as is for $180, or best offer. Shipping can be negotiated. It's over on the marketplace boards.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=33551933#post33551933
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck!
I got that used TF201 "shell" today and it's busted too. FFS, these things are finicky.
The replacement shell you got was busted? That sucks.
Mine is still around. Waiting to hear back from a few people on it.
USNGoat said:
Yes, Rev 0-A01. I found mine through a reputable LCD vendor's website. They initially sent me a screen compatible with the other version (I can't remember the model number) but it wasn't compatible with the TF201. So I sent it back, and 4 months later they seem to have found a cache of screens, which I received one of.
I would also like to point out that they still have some available, but I won't post the link as I don't want to infringe on any rules here. But if you need a screen they are out there, you've just got to look a little.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, I'm an idiot.
The replacement was a Rev 0-A00, and doesn't work with the TF201.
The "new" shell works, but I still have no display. At least I've got it narrowed down to the same old problem though.
Hello guys does anyone of you have bought in the past any replacement part from there???are there originals or made by them??
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
Is This An Oem Digitizer?
What is this blue thing next to the verizon logo on the right..is this an oem digitizer replacement??
http://www.etradesupply.com/oem-htc-droid-incredible-x-droid-dna-digitizer-touch-screen.html
Djmk4 said:
What is this blue thing next to the verizon logo on the right..is this an oem digitizer replacement??
http://www.etradesupply.com/oem-htc-droid-incredible-x-droid-dna-digitizer-touch-screen.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
anyone who knows what is that blue thing next to the verizon logo on the right?
blake chan said:
Seems like the proximity and light sensor hole... The reason why it's blue is that it is covered by a piece of protective film to protect it from the dust and finger print.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is an oem replacement??
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
blake chan said:
They claim to sell OEM parts, but I'm not sure... Compare the price with ebay, the digitizer they sold are much cheaper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If we mark anything as OEM in the title then it's OEM. Otherwise it won't be marked in the title, and on the product page it will say aftermarket next to "Condition". So no worries if you want to shop with us :good:
Feel free to have a look at our YouTube page just search etradesupply, we have over 6 million views.
It's a legit OEM replacement. I bought one. I wasn't successful in installing it because I fubar'd my disassembly, but it's legit. PM me if you want to see better pictures of it or buy the one I got, lol.
Stay well away from the likes of etradesupply, I gave them many chances to send me quality replacement parts, all failed. My guess is yes they may be OEM but I would say they are 2nds or refurbished parts. AVOID!
Hello,
one thing id like to say is that replacing just the digitizer is very very difficult. Basically, its not going to happen.
I've replaced my dna screen twice, battery once and my volume flex cable/buttons once.
i bought this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-HT.../370896928288?ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:US:3160
from gadgetfix on ebay and it was great. i already had the tools (you can pm me for more info if you need). the first screen assembly i bought was from repairsuniverse and i was not happy with the screen quality (colors were washed out due most likely to poor assembly of digitizer to lcd). The assembly is really a glass cover+digitizer+lcd and is worth it if you want to not run into problems
Not sure but their shipping is outrageous!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Free mobile app
It is too far from OEM. I have ordered "OEM" LCD+frame assembly for HTC One X (sharp version). Yes, it arrived without scratches. But the color of screen is going to yellow. Besides that, there is a tiny gap at the bottom between LCD and frame. But the worst thing that happened - after 3 days of using, LCD started to peel off from the frame (so I had to go to the repair shop and they re-peeled it). So NO, IT IS NOT OEM...
Original replacement parts
You want original original phone parts replacement? Here is a good one for you-HCQS. For more info you can visit: hcqs.com.cn
EtradeSupply sell 100% oem do not means originals
lol
---------- Post added at 03:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:29 AM ----------
Hellon said:
You want original original phone parts replacement? Here is a good one for you-HCQS. For more info you can visit: hcqs.com.cn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I buy an iphone 6 lcd screen at hcqs.cc .
Are they same website?
Just take a deep consider before buy it
They sends wrong/cheap items and don't agree this.
I've ordered my cracked Lumia 920 touch screen from this site. But they sent me cheap and not oem part. i asked for exchange or money back. But they still don't agree it's wrong item.
i've ordered GRADE S+ item (it means 100% OEM and original)
but they sent GRADE R item (Not original/ similar china made)
Think twice before buy items from this site.
OEM? What a joke!
I know this is an old post. However, if I can stumble on it in 2016, I assume others could still see it in the foreseeable future and hence my comment below.
These guys advertise their so called S+ grade as *OEM*. They do have other grades that are "OEM-Compatible". Thus, S+ is definitely advertised as genuine products. Unfortunately, I received an S+ grade Samsung S4 glass-digitizer module that is *NOT* even properly assembled! A working part would have the vertical flex cable on top of the horizontal one and connect to the white connector above. Their part has the vertical cable buried under the horizontal one and connects to nowhere! The touch function as a result is not working. I doubt this is an OEM product but likely a counterfeit!
Sorry I cannot post a photo here or insert a link to an external site since I'm new. If you want to see the photo, contact me plz.
I once bought a iPhone 7 LCD Screen and Digitizer Assembly with Frame Replacement - Black - Grade S+ in Etrade Supply online shop,the phone parts looks very like the OEM and it works well... There are four grades in their shop just like Grade A,Grade R,Grade S,Grade S+. Grade S+ is 100% original manufactured,so what you buy is correct....
Bought a Nexus 5 screen in S+ grade - so apparently everything should be like an original part. Luckily I have a second Nexus with the original screen and could compare the two. Brightness levels are different with the S+ one being noticeably dimmer at full brightness and brighter at low brightness. The screen also has slightly warmer color reproduction than the original one.
I am not sure if the quality was worth the effort of buying overseas and I will try to get a Paypal refund as the product is clearly not as described.
Someone with money to spare should test how the front glass actually compares to the gorilla glass on the original screen.
EtradeSupply OEM LCD screen replacement parts
There are no original replacement parts on the aftermarket but the S+ LCD screen on etradesuply is close to OEM, it also has a high quality than others.
Grade S+ parts are those with 100% original core components like LCD, IC chip, flex, while non-core component like frame can be original or original compliant (Up to the main market trend), which are assembled by the original factories.
One hour ago, I accidentally broke my moto e gorilla glass! The touch is working fine, but the glass is shattered, my phone is already out of warranty and is rooted! Is there any way to change the gorilla glass? How much it will cost me just to change the front panel? I saw the front panel on this site > https://www.parts4repair.com/front-glass-for-motorola-moto-e-xt1021-black/ is it good? Should I repair it from local shop or give it to service centre? I know they cost 2500+ for replacement of glass and display, but I have only my front glass broken, the display digitizer is working fine! Should I buy the above glass and fix it on my own? I think I can fix it as I'm a electronics engineering student lol! Or should I give it service centre, I really don't wanna pay 2500+ for my 2 year old 7,000rs phone!
lionking5202 said:
One hour ago, I accidentally broke my moto e gorilla glass! The touch is working fine, but the glass is shattered, my phone is already out of warranty and is rooted! Is there any way to change the gorilla glass? How much it will cost me just to change the front panel? I saw the front panel on this site > https://www.parts4repair.com/front-glass-for-motorola-moto-e-xt1021-black/ is it good? Should I repair it from local shop or give it to service centre? I know they cost 2500+ for replacement of glass and display, but I have only my front glass broken, the display digitizer is working fine! Should I buy the above glass and fix it on my own? I think I can fix it as I'm a electronics engineering student lol! Or should I give it service centre, I really don't wanna pay 2500+ for my 2 year old 7,000rs phone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not buy just the glass. I am 100% experienced regarding this thing. I have replaced my display assembly two times. I know very well about the structure of the display assembly. Firstly the glass, digitizer and the LCD are BONDED together. If you attempt separating them, you'll literally f**k up the LCD and digitizer. Even local shops won't be able to do it. It can only be done in the factory using automated machines which actually manufacture the display assembly.
Service center: NO. Don't go there. They will charge you nearly the price of a new phone!
Now you have two options. Either buy the display assembly (glass+digitizer+LCD) from here: http://www.ebay.in/itm/LCD-Display-...T1022-Black-/252415179667?hash=item3ac51dfb93
or
Buy the display assembly along with the side frame from here: http://www.ebay.in/itm/LCD-Display-...T1022-Black-/252415182326?hash=item3ac51e05f6
The display assembly is glued to the sideframe with a super strong adhesive. You can't separate the display from the frame without using a heat gun to melt the glue. If you do this, you'll also melt the sideframe and chrome grills partially, which will further f**k up the look of the phone. This is a really tough job so I would say don't do this or get this done (I already have got this done the first time I had to get a new display). Then you will have to fix the new display with special adhesive or double sided tape which is a very unclean job.
Now you are left with the option to buy display assembly along with frame. This is your best bet but the costliest option. You get the entire front half of your phone which is easy to replace. No need of gluing or ungluing anything. Just unscrew and screw in the new front half of the phone.
The links I gave above are from a highly trusted seller which sells 100% original product. I bought from them. They are selling 100% genuine product and the product I received is same as original.
When I had got the display replaced the 1st time, I got it done from a local shop (it was without frame) and the display was fine but not really as good as original and it was not gorilla glass. I used to miss the original so much.
Then 2nd time I bought from this seller, finally got back the original moto display! So buy without giving a second thought. Trust me.
I got it on 20% discount but that promotion has ended. You can use code EBAYHIKE06 for 6% discount.
I am from Mumbai. I am selling my Moto E parts -
Things which I am selling -
1. BATTERY
2. SCREEN
3. Everything Else except motherboard
Kailashk said:
I am from Mumbai. I am selling my Moto E parts -
Things which I am selling -
1. BATTERY
2. SCREEN
3. Everything Else except motherboard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm just curious. What would you do with the motherboard?
nilanko said:
Do not buy just the glass. I am 100% experienced regarding this thing. I have replaced my display assembly two times. I know very well about the structure of the display assembly. Firstly the glass, digitizer and the LCD are BONDED together. If you attempt separating them, you'll literally f**k up the LCD and digitizer. Even local shops won't be able to do it. It can only be done in the factory using automated machines which actually manufacture the display assembly.
Service center: NO. Don't go there. They will charge you nearly the price of a new phone!
Now you have two options. Either buy the display assembly (glass+digitizer+LCD) from here: http://www.ebay.in/itm/LCD-Display-...T1022-Black-/252415179667?hash=item3ac51dfb93
or
Buy the display assembly along with the side frame from here: http://www.ebay.in/itm/LCD-Display-...T1022-Black-/252415182326?hash=item3ac51e05f6
The display assembly is glued to the sideframe with a super strong adhesive. You can't separate the display from the frame without using a heat gun to melt the glue. If you do this, you'll also melt the sideframe and chrome grills partially, which will further f**k up the look of the phone. This is a really tough job so I would say don't do this or get this done (I already have got this done the first time I had to get a new display). Then you will have to fix the new display with special adhesive or double sided tape which is a very unclean job.
Now you are left with the option to buy display assembly along with frame. This is your best bet but the costliest option. You get the entire front half of your phone which is easy to replace. No need of gluing or ungluing anything. Just unscrew and screw in the new front half of the phone.
The links I gave above are from a highly trusted seller which sells 100% original product. I bought from them. They are selling 100% genuine product and the product I received is same as original.
When I had got the display replaced the 1st time, I got it done from a local shop (it was without frame) and the display was fine but not really as good as original and it was not gorilla glass. I used to miss the original so much.
Then 2nd time I bought from this seller, finally got back the original moto display! So buy without giving a second thought. Trust me.
I got it on 20% discount but that promotion has ended. You can use code EBAYHIKE06 for 6% discount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the share, but there aren"t any remaining pieces available in both of the links any other link bro??
Kailashk said:
I am from Mumbai. I am selling my Moto E parts -
Things which I am selling -
1. BATTERY
2. SCREEN
3. Everything Else except motherboard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how much you will cost for display and a headphone jack? are these components in fine condition?
lionking5202 said:
how much you will cost for display and a headphone jack? are these components in fine condition?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both components are working fine and are in good condition. If you are interested, Contact me on whatsapp : 8446515089
lionking5202 said:
thanks for the share, but there aren"t any remaining pieces available in both of the links any other link bro??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the seller's number: +919003890217
Contact him on whatsapp and ask him to relist the required item.