Related
OK - this will be a relatively long post, but if you are interested in using more than the supplied watch faces when using your Android Wear watch with iOS, you will be (hopefully) rewarded at the end.
First, I have many Apple devices (phones, tablets, etc.), so I am comfortable in that environment. But for me buying an Apple Watch, especially a version 1 device, for over $350 didn't make sense to me, especially since I don't think I ever spent more than about $40 for a watch. Ever! Even for my Casio scientific watch back in the day. But I have always worn a watch and I use them for what they were originally intended - letting me know what time it is without having to pull out my phone. When the Apple watch did come out, I was intrigued, not about most of the functions, but because of the ability to design and change watch faces. But the Apple watch has very little flexibility here. So then I started to explore the other smart watch offerings, and found the Android Wear eco-system. And the customizations were and still are very open. With sites like WatchaWear and Facerepo, you can see that the sky is pretty much the limit. And with Facer and WatchMaker you can make extensive designs even if you can't develop Android Wear apps. But again, the early devices were almost as expensive as the Apple watch and also very large (I have moderate size wrists). That was the other thing I think Apple got right - two different sizes. But for round two of the Android Wear devices we see that the Moto 360 V2 and the ASUS Zenwatch 2 now come in two sizes. And both are quite reasonably priced, especially the ASUS offerings. I am not a fan of the flat tire on the MOTO's for aesthetic reasons. But for Black Friday the ASUS could be had for as little as $129, so I took the plunge. For a stainless steel Apple watch I would have paid over $550, plus I got a nice watch band for under $25 which would have cost me at least $50 on the Apple side, up to $149 for a nice metal band. So we are looking at $155 vs. up to $700 - quite a difference. Yes - I did spend an additional $40 as I had no other Android devices, but that was for the functionality of making beautiful watch faces. Since then I have learned about another option - AMIDuOS - an Android emulator. WatchMaker and Google Play work just fine in this emulator, and it is only $15 for the Lollipop (5.0.1) version.
I had done a reasonable amount of research and knew about some of the issues of working with the Android Wear offering while using iOS, so I purchased a cheap ($40) no contract phone (see tip above about AMIDuOS as another option) to set up the watch and run WatchMaker to design/modify watch faces. And with Android Wear now supporting connectivity over WiFi, I figured I could take the Android phone aroung to the places I visit most often just one (you need the phone to pair the watch to WiFi if it is protected and requires a passphrase), and then I could leave it home after that. And I really didn't care about most of the other functionality - I just wanted to be able to swap watch faces for different environments.
So I purchased WatchMaker premium from the Google Play store and away we went. I prepared may different watch faces and downloaded them to the watch and we were all set.
But there were a few functions that were nice to do from the watch when paired to the phone, and when I was in the car most of the time I would lose connectivity unless I bothered to set my iOS phone to tether, and even then I wouldn't get any notifications on the watch about my calendar events, messages or emails. And as it turns out some of those are quite nice to have on the watch.
So I looked around to see if there was any way to make WatchMkaer faces available by somehow allowing WatchMaker to run on the watch when paired to an iPhone. So after a couple of weeks and some hints and tips from the "Android Wear and iOS connectivity" thread, I have come up with a guide to allow you to run WatchMaker on the watch and select as many faces as you care to download. I will also explain how to get other watch faces that are available to run on the watch.
Kevin
The process
First, you will need a smartwatch with a USB interface running Android Wear 5.1 or later.
Next, download the Android Wear app from the App Store (requires at least iOS 8.4 or above). Then follow the setup process for pairing your watch and iPhone.
After that, try out a few of the supplied watch faces and make sure everything is working correctly.
Now, on the watch, get to the Settings app (right-to-left swipe at 3 o'clock) and tap on it to open. You need to scroll all the way down to the About entry. Tap on that, then scroll down until you see the Build Number. Tap on that 7 times and you will become a "developer". Now swipe right, and you will see a new option under About - Developer options. Tap on that, then scroll down to ADB debugging. It will probably be disabled. Tap on it and it will give you a confirmation prompt - click on the green checkmark to accept. Now you watch is ready to be connected to your computer.
My environment is Windows (7 and 10), but I understand this is very similar on OS/X.
Search the internet for and download the Android SDK.
Install it, making sure you select the USB drivers - especially for Windows 7 (Windows 10 seemed to find them automatically).
I highly recommend adding the ...sdk/tools and ...sdk/platform-tools to your system PATH environment variable (search the internet for examples on how to do this).
Now, with Device Manager open, attach your watch to your computer with your USB cable. If the device doesn't show any errors in device manager, you are all set. If you get the yellow triangle indicating the driver wasn't installed, you will need to search the internet for solutions to this problem. I don't think you need to do any of this stuff on OS/X.
At some point after you have everything connected properly, you will get a prompt on the watch for permission to connect to your computer. I would suggest the option which says to always trust this connection so you won't continue to get prompted.
OK - we now have everything we need (almost) to start installing WatchMaker and other watch faces.
The process (continued)
You will need an Android device to run WatchMaker on, and almost all other watch face apps. You can buy just about any Android phone that runs at least KitKat (4.4). I am not sure if it runs on Android tablets. You can also use the AMIDuOS emulator on Windows or the Andy emulator on Windows or Mac (I haven't actually tried the Windows version, but I have tested the Mac version and it works fine,). Make sure the Google Play Store app is installed on your device. Then purchase WatchMaker premium and install it. Then, if you want to control how long you watch face stays in the "bright" mode, purchase and install StayLit. (Note - I have no affiliation with any of these companies - just think their apps are what you need to make the most of using your watch as a watch).
Now apparently the apps that have companions that run on the watch automatically try to download the watch app (.apk files) that are included in their .apk file. So we need to extract those .apk's from the main app. I used a free program called AirDroid on the phone. You then open up a browser on your computer that's on the same network as your android phone and browse to the address listed in the AirDroid app. Then browse the Apps, and you should see both WatchMaker and StayLit. On your browser a down arrow will appear as you hover to the right of the app. Click on it - this will download the main .apk file. Save both of these to some folder on your PC. If you are using AMIDuOS, the process is just slightly different. You will need to put the emulator in Developer mode. You click on the Settings app, scroll down to the About Phone, and click on that. Then, as with the watch, click on the Build Number at the bottom 7 times until it says that you are a developer. This will add a new option to the settings - Developer options. Look for the USB debugging option in the Debugging section, and enable it. After that, you now need to open a command prompt. Make sure you have installed the Android SDK tools. Now, type ADB forward tcp:8888 tcp:8888. Do this until you don't get any errors. Now you can bring up AirDroid on the emulator. Then in a browser, you can open a session to http://localhost:8888. This will allow you to use AirDroid to download the .apk files from the emulator.
Now, open those .apk's with WinZip or 7Zip or equivalent. Inside each one, look inside sdk/raw. There will be another .apk with wear or wearable. Extract those files - you will be "sideloading" those into the watch.
Open a command prompt, and navigate to where you stored the wear .apk files.
First, type: ADB -d devices - you should get back a list with your watch serial number. If not, search the web for solutions.
To install WatchMaker, type: ADB -d install -i slide.watchFrenzy.premium android_wear_micro_apk.apk
And again, if you don't get Success - search the web for solutions.
If you purchased StayLit. install it with: ADB -d install -i com.phonephreak.extendedlight wearable_app.apk
At this point, if you check your Android Wear app on your iPhone, you should see WatchMaker Premium in gray available under watch faces. We're almost there. If you now go to the watch and press the middle of the face, you can select new faces - one of them should be the red WatchMaker Premium selection. If you select that, you should get the default Steel Blue face.
You can change how long the screen stays bright by swiping from right to left at 3 o'clock, then scroll down to the StayLit app. Tap on it and it will give you many choices - select the one you want by tapping on it and you're set (I like 30 seconds - you can always cover it with your hand if you want to manually dim it). But you need it to be longer than the default 5 seconds if you want to enjoy your selection of faces or for others to notice - after all, isn't that the reason we care about watch brands or faces? Otherwise, we could all wear an ugly cheapo and be done.
OK - now all that's left is to download our WatchMaker creations.
Process - last step
The simple version:
The WatchMaker folder structure on the watch is very close to the structure on the design (host Android phone or emulator) device. Here is the structure on the host:
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/,temp
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/export
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/featured
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/fonts
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/fonts_bm
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/gifs
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/images
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/maps
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/preview
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/preview_dim
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/preview_mini
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/preview_small
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/scripts
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/share
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/wallpaper_bg
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/watches
and on the watch:
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/,temp
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/featured
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/fonts
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/fonts_bm
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/gifs
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/images
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/maps
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/preview_mini
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/scripts
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/wallpaper_bg
/sdcard/BeautifulWatches/watches
Case and spelling is extremely important - if any on the watch are not correct WatchMaker on the watch will not work correctly.
The contents of all of the folders on the watch is the same as that on the host with one exception - the .../preview_mini on the watch are closest to preview_small on the host.
So the short version is after getting the .apk file loaded onto the watch, just replicate the host folder structure onto the watch, minus the export, preview, preview_dim, preview_mini and share folders and renaming preview_small to preview_mini.
The detailed version:
OK - now this is the complicated part. After loading and selecting WatchMaker on the watch, it will create a directory structure /sdcard/BeautifulWatches
First, using either an Android device or the AMIDuOS emulator, create/download/modify all the watch faces that you want to use. Scripts and the WatchMaker LUA's do work, but there are a few functions that can't be used on iOS - basically anything obtained from the phone; so no weather status, no phone battery status, no WiFi or Bluetooth status. Watch battery status and phase of the moon do work.
Next, it turns out that the directory structure on the editing device is very close to that on the watch. So all we need to do is extract the files from the editing device, change/delete a few, and then send the modified structure back to the watch.
So open a command prompt on your computer, then navigate to a folder where we are going to mirror our structure (I recommend having the final branch being BeautifulWatches). Empty it first. Then seed it by entering: ADB -e pull /sdcard/BeautifulWatches. (The -e flag says to direct the command to the emulator). If you are using an actual Android device either use AirDroid to obtain the files or enable Developer mode on the android device and use a USB cable. If you use the USB cable, only connect either the design device or the watch at one time. In this case, use the -d option instead of the -e option - it says to use the USB device.
This will copy all of the necessary files/folders that we will need to our PC. Leave this command prompt open as we need to push our files back when we are done.
Using Windows explorer, or command prompt commands, delete the following folders: export, preview, preview_dim and preview_mini. Then rename preview_small to preview_mini.
And now, all we need to do is put the files back. Connect the watch to the computer with the USB cable. Then, from the same command prompt (or at least from a command prompt whose current directory is the ...\BeautifulWatches shadow location), type:
ADB -d push . /sdcard/BeautifulWatches
It's probably a good idea to now restart your watch. You can do this with ADB -d reboot.
Now, after "changing" watch faces by pressing down for a second or two on the watch face, you will see WatchMaker Premium with a little settings icon. Press this icon briefly and you will see all of your WatchMaker faces. Scroll left or right and select the one you wish to use.
From time to time, especially after deleting a lot of watches or making major changes to your watch face collection, it is probably a good idea to purge your watch of all the files before loading them from the computer. You can do this with a few commands from a command prompt:
ADB -d shell
cd /sdcard/BeautifulWatches/
rm -rf *
rm -rf .*
exit
Then push back your shadow folder and reboot your watch..
Kevin
Other watch faces
If you wish to install other watch faces that come packaged as .apk files, if they are installed on the Android phone (such as the animated Mickey watch face app) you can use basically the same process as the WatchMaker or StayLit app extraction. Install the app on your phone, download the .apk file, look inside for res/raw and see if there's another wear .apk file in there. Then just use the ADB install example_wear_apk.apk command to load the watch portion into your watch (the -i option isn't required and I just included it before because I happened to know their names). If you care you can use the command ADB shell PM list packages to get a list of packages installed before installing a new one, look for the one that wasn't there before, ADB uninstall by that service name, and then re-install using the -i xxxxxxxxx option.
If the .apk is already the wear .apk, just use the ADB install command to install it directly.
Kevin
And one more thing...
Sorry for the title, but after being able to pair with my iPhone, it is really useful to get notifications right on the watch (you can turn them off if you wish). And you can use OK, Google for some things that aren't obvious, like "show me my agenda for next Tuesday", which will show up right on the watch. Also 4 days of weather are available locally. Most any other OK Google will end up on the phone. And I don't have to carry two phones to get this functionality.
Kevin
Thank you for all this, I will give it a go, one quick question, you say that if you have the APK file, say you purchased a face and downloaded the APK to your PC, you could then just install the APK file directly onto the watch?
Thanks
pauljmiddleton said:
Thank you for all this, I will give it a go, one quick question, you say that if you have the APK file, say you purchased a face and downloaded the APK to your PC, you could then just install the APK file directly onto the watch?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not an expert on .apk's, but I think they are normally signed with certificates. But yes, if it's a valid .apk file on the PC you can load it to the watch, if it's the wear .apk. Many of the watch face .apk's are intended for the phone, and the wear apk is embedded inside the phone apk (in /res/raw), so you would need to extract the wear apk first. Then you can load that one to the watch. I tested a few of these (free watch faces, such as Eagle Watch Face and Elegance Watch Face). Their wear .apk was embedded in the phone apk, so I had to extract it first before loading it. But they both worked fine.
Kevin
Thanks for the information. if you explain these steps with pictures,we can understand easily. Thanks
Awesome tutorial! Thank you for taking the time to write all this out. I haven't received my watch yet, but when I do I am eager to try this out. I'm in a similar situation to you - I prefer the Android Wear watches, but I like my iPhone, and I mostly use Windows. I've already purchased Watchmaker Premium so that I can tinker and be ready for my watch. I'm getting the Huawei Watch, btw. It's such a beautiful design compared to the ugly Apple Watch. To be honest, I will probably eventually switch entirely to Android - especially if jailbreaking ever becomes impossible. But for now, I like my jailbroken iPhone 6 so I will do what I can to make it work with my Android Wear device
thanks for this! I'm a bit confused but Are we able to load all the faces at once? Doing your guide will do that? I have dozens of faces on watchmaker so I want to be sure if I was to follow this guide all the faces will show up?
Or do I have to do this for each face?
Thank you
wkevinw said:
OK - now this is the complicated part. After loading and selecting WatchMaker on the watch, it will create a directory structure /sdcard/BeautifulWatches
First, we are going to extract that and make a copy of it on our PC's.
From the command prompt, navigate to a folder where we are going to mirror our structure (I recommend having the final branch being BeautifulWatches). Seed it by entering:
ABD pull /sdcard/BeautifulWatches
This will copy all of the necessary files/folders that we will be updating from our PC. Leave this command prompt open as we need to push our files back when we are done.
Next, design/modify your watch faces on your Android device. Scripts and the WatchMaker LUA's do work, but there are a few functions that can't be used on iOS - basically anything obtained from the phone; so no weather status, no phone battery status, no WiFi or Bluetooth status. Watch battery status and phase of the moon do work. After you are happy, go back to the lower left watch icon to get to the options screen for that watch face, and scroll down to the Export/Share and click on it. We need to get the .watch file(s) on our PC. After the export is done, it will ask you if you want to share the file now. Answer No as at this point the file we want has already been created and the only thing it is "sharing" is a .jpg of the watch face.
Now at this point we have the files we need to send to the watch. Again, using our browser connected to AirDroid, navigate to the files section and look in the BeautifulWatches folder on our Android phone. There will be a folder called export. Our .watch file is in here. Download this file to the PC. Also look in the preview folder and find the watch face you just exported and notice it's name (usually uxx.jpg where xx is a 1 or 2 or 3? digit number). Note the name as that's what we'll use below (nn) as it's name in the directory structure.
Open the .watch file with a zip extractor - you can associate .watch with your zip tool which will make things easier. Inside you will find the resources we need to transfer to the watch. Extract the watch.xml file to our shadow BeautifulWatches\watches folder, then rename it unn.xml. Extract any fonts or images into these same named shadow folders. Extract the watch.txt file into the scripts shadow folder and rename it to unn.txt. And finally, extract the Preview.jpg into the shadow preview-mini folder and rename it unn.jpg. When I looked at these when the watch was paired to an Android phone they were all 220x220 pixels, the Preview.jpg files are all 512x512. So for consistency I resize the unn.jpg to 220x220 pixels (you can use Microsoft Paint to do this easily).
And now, all we need to do is put the files back. From the same command prompt (or at least from a command prompt whose current directory is the ...\BeautifulWatches shadow location), type:
ADB push . /sdcard/BeautifulWatches
Now, after "changing" watch faces by pressing down for a second or two on the watch face, you will see WatchMaker Premium with a little settings icon. Press this icon briefly and you will see all of your WatchMaker faces. Scroll left or right and select the one you wish to use.
Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok Kevin, thanks for this and sorry for all the questions.
I got the watchmaker premium app installed on the watch and both default faces are there, this part is easy. Now I notice I will have to load each face once at a time - right? ok.
but you are killing me on the seed parrt when saying to enter ABD pull /sdcard/BeautifulWatches - I just notice the reason why it was not working is because you but "ABD" instead of "ADB" haha ok so now - where i stuck is when you say:
"Extract the watch.xml file to our shadow BeautifulWatches\watches folder, then rename it unn.xml. Extract any fonts or images into these same named shadow folders. Extract the watch.txt file into the scripts shadow folder and rename it to unn.txt. And finally, extract the Preview.jpg into the shadow preview-mini folder and rename it unn.jpg."
what do you mean by shadow folders? can you break this section down for me a bit more? I was able to export the face - see the name of the face in preview - rename the files but i dont understand the shadow folder part?
Thanks
SomeGuyInOz said:
Awesome tutorial! Thank you for taking the time to write all this out. I haven't received my watch yet, but when I do I am eager to try this out. I'm in a similar situation to you - I prefer the Android Wear watches, but I like my iPhone, and I mostly use Windows. I've already purchased Watchmaker Premium so that I can tinker and be ready for my watch. I'm getting the Huawei Watch, btw. It's such a beautiful design compared to the ugly Apple Watch. To be honest, I will probably eventually switch entirely to Android - especially if jailbreaking ever becomes impossible. But for now, I like my jailbroken iPhone 6 so I will do what I can to make it work with my Android Wear device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of curiosity, what Android device are you using to run WatchMaker?
Kevin
rkick07 said:
ok Kevin, thanks for this and sorry for all the questions.
I got the watchmaker premium app installed on the watch and both default faces are there, this part is easy. Now I notice I will have to load each face once at a time - right? ok.
but you are killing me on the seed parrt when saying to enter ABD pull /sdcard/BeautifulWatches - I just notice the reason why it was not working is because you but "ABD" instead of "ADB" haha ok so now - where i stuck is when you say:
"Extract the watch.xml file to our shadow BeautifulWatches\watches folder, then rename it unn.xml. Extract any fonts or images into these same named shadow folders. Extract the watch.txt file into the scripts shadow folder and rename it to unn.txt. And finally, extract the Preview.jpg into the shadow preview-mini folder and rename it unn.jpg."
what do you mean by shadow folders? can you break this section down for me a bit more? I was able to export the face - see the name of the face in preview - rename the files but i dont understand the shadow folder part?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, sorry about the typo - I have updated that section.
Second, I received this suggestion from davpel, and it makes things much, much easier. And you get all your faces in one fell swoop:
One additional question. Since I have an Android phone as well which is running Watchmaker, do you think I could simply load up the desired faces on the phone and then replace the entire "Beautiful Watches" folder on the watch with the one from my phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As it turns out, this is a wonderful idea/suggestion.
Let me start by explaining what I meant by "shadow folders". In order to transfer all of our faces to the watch we need a place on the PC to keep them. And in order to be able to send everything we need and put them in their proper place it's easier if our directory (folder) structure be exactly the same as what WatchMaker needs on the watch. So this is the concept of "shadow folders" - a shadow or mirror image of what the phone needs. This is not absolutely necessary - we could store the files all over our PC and then transfer (ADB push) them one folder or even one file at a time, but it would be a bear to keep organized and remembered. Of course, you could write a .cmd file so you don't have to remember, but I like to keep it as simple as I can.
Now, davpel noticed that the folder structure on the device with the WatchMaker design software is very similar to what ends up on the watch, and is, in fact, a superset of what we need. And then instead of extracting files one face at a time and trying to figure out where everything goes, we can just copy the BeautifulWatches folder(s) from the phone to our PC (I used the free AirDroid app to do this) and optionally delete any extraneous items. I don't know if the extra items actually need to be deleted, but I found that you don't need the .temp, export, preview, preview_dim, preview_small and share folders. So I just delete them first, then transfer all the rest with "ADB push . /sdcard/BeautifulWatches" from a command prompt with the current directory set to our PC's BeautifulWatches folder. So tomorrow I will update that section of the guide with this new, simpler method.
Hope this helps.
Kevin
wkevinw said:
Now, davpel noticed that the folder structure on the device with the WatchMaker design software is very similar to what ends up on the watch, and is, in fact, a superset of what we need. And then instead of extracting files one face at a time and trying to figure out where everything goes, we can just copy the BeautifulWatches folder(s) from the phone to our PC (I used the free AirDroid app to do this) and optionally delete any extraneous items. I don't know if the extra items actually need to be deleted, but I found that you don't need the .temp, export, preview, preview_dim, preview_small and share folders. So I just delete them first, then transfer all the rest with "ADB push . /sdcard/BeautifulWatches" from a command prompt with the current directory set to our PC's BeautifulWatches folder. So tomorrow I will update that section of the guide with this new, simpler method.
Hope this helps.
Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds awesome! That will indeed be ther perfect solution. Looking forward towards it.
Thanks!:good:
./adb pull /sdcard/BeautifulWatches
Huawei Watch - I'm stuck at this ./abd pull instructions and continue to get this:
pull: building file list...
0 files pulled. 0 files skipped.
Would appreciate some help.
wkevinw said:
Out of curiosity, what Android device are you using to run WatchMaker?
Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment I'm using an LG P769 which I bought 2 years ago. I'm running a custom rom on it (CM11), but it is pretty slow. I'm thinking of getting a new phone or even a tablet so that I can run this stuff a little faster with a newer version of Android. I used to use this as a secondary phone on trips to the USA (it's an unlocked T-Mobile phone), but don't use it as a phone any more; just a toy to tinker with
Now I am Enjoying Android watch
Now I am happy to buy this watch its prefect for me all and every time and place
Kevin where u at!? :cyclops:
Kevin, I did it! I loaded all the faces in one push!
I simply copied all the folders from watchmker using Airdroid to the PC in a Beautifulwatches folder I created on my desktop. then from that folder on the browser I ran the push code, ADB push . /sdcard/BeautifulWatches
and bam! they all loaded!
sorry a bit excited right now.
:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory:
Hello everyone
This is my first time to the forum
I recently got the 2016 honda civic and it comes with android auto and carplay (for iphone). The car is great however I noticed that there is an "apps" section in the IMID display. There's options to install apk files on a USB drive, browser/search when connected to WI-FI, and a downloader app to view progress of downloads. I've tried having the apk files on a USB and was able to see the apk files, but the "install" button was grayed out so I couldn't install it. I looked on the web for tutorials on getting around it. Since the IMID is linux / android based - I managed to find the android settings window, select "about", scrolled down to "build #", and tapped it 7 times to try and enter the developer mode. I get the countdown till I enter developer mode, but after the last tap, it asks to enter a "passcord" which I think is a typo for "password"? and no keyboard appears to do any sort of typing for the password. I wanted to see if anyone got further than I did.
Tried a lot of things to see if there was a way to access the developer mode or by pass the car system to be able to install apps. I've read it's futile but just wanted to give it a shot.
Thank you for any help / advice!
(i've attached the info of the version that's in the car. need to remove a couple spaces in the link below)
https: //www .anony.ws/image/JgJ1
Found This
Hello,
I was digging in some more and found this under System>Legal Information>Open source licenses
When I selected "Open Source Licenses," it discusses the open source software and provides a link that I posted below.
(remove the spaces in the links below)
http ://www .embedded-carmultimedia.jp/linux/oss/download/H_ADA_163400_00001
(this is a picture of what I found)
https ://www .anony.ws/image/Jgbl
I have some software background but this is beyond what I can understand for Linux/android coding language.
Has anyone heard of updates?
This code appears to just be for the Bluetooth protocol stack, BlueZ. I don't think it would be useful. Is there any other downloads in that text?
T3h Ub3r K1tten said:
This code appears to just be for the Bluetooth protocol stack, BlueZ. I don't think it would be useful. Is there any other downloads in that text?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, I've tried digging in more, but haven't found anything besides the open source download link. But thank you for taking a look into what is in the source code. :good: All I know was that it was in C/C++ which I do not have a lot of expertise in following.
We just need to figure out how to get passed the "enter passcord" issue :/ or other methods of cracking into the system. I greatly appreciate the help
Technically, it is supposed to be possible to unlock the radio and navigation system through this website :
https:// radio-navicode.honda.com/
Apparently, the code seems to be unique for each vehicles... Now I don't own a Honda, so I cannot verify it myself.
Enjoy!
Martarek said:
Technically, it is supposed to be possible to unlock the radio and navigation system through this website :
https:// radio-navicode.honda.com/
Apparently, the code seems to be unique for each vehicles... Now I don't own a Honda, so I cannot verify it myself.
Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I got my code, but now, how to type it in? It doesn't provide a keyboard.
Btw, the device has about 2G disc space.
Nice! Thanks for the info =) . For the keyboard entry, first thing I would try would be either trying to pair the radio with a bluetooth keyboard or simply plugging a USB keyboard in the USB connector inside the car. Chances are, it might be able to load the proper drivers by default if Android was not too much modified. Still, a long shot. Otherwise, I am rather surprise that there are no software keyboard on the device...
Martarek said:
Nice! Thanks for the info =) . For the keyboard entry, first thing I would try would be either trying to pair the radio with a bluetooth keyboard or simply plugging a USB keyboard in the USB connector inside the car. Chances are, it might be able to load the proper drivers by default if Android was not too much modified. Still, a long shot. Otherwise, I am rather surprise that there are no software keyboard on the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit has a software keyboard (it pops up in different places, like the browser for ex), it just doesn't pop up in this case. I guess it is disabled on purpose. I don't have a bluetooth or USB keyboard. Will have to search one. Actually, I'm thinking there should be some hidden USB port somewhere because the ones exposed are very limited.
Apparently if you
[...]enter the diagnostic menu press the green power button, menu button, and brightness setting button at the same time. Diagnostic menu will pop up in about 2 seconds. If it does work take your finger off the buttons and try again. To enter the developers menu select detail information & setting then hold the menu button. To enter the hidden android settings select android settings in the developer menu.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Source :
htt ps://youtu.be/y-C1odfr0vU
Maybe there is more to be done this way...?
The radio seems to be able to provide a lot of information about the car (a CANBus connection?). Let me know if it gets you any further =) . But still, the USB keyboard seems to me like one the most promising ways of inputing the code you obtained at the moment...
The radio code is only for theft protection. Normally the head unit stores the VIN for its original car and will lock if it gets put in a car with a different/inaccessible VIN. The code lets you unlock the head unit then. You can actually view it in one of the diagnostic menus.
I can confirm that a USB keyboard plugged into either of the two USB ports does not work. I have found out a few things, though. If you open the browser and go into Google or something so the on-display keyboard appears, you can then plug in the USB keyboard and the on screen keyboard will glitch. It will not allow you to type on the USB one. This to me seems like the device is purposefully recognizing the USB, then blocking it from being used. It would make sense to be that there may be a third, hidden USB somewhere that allows much more access.
I also have a 2016 Civic and went through all same things.
On another note, has anyone figured out how to do the brake bypass, how to ground it? I used the web browser by tethering my phone and youtube videos loaded fine, but it won't work if the car is not parked. Anyone know how to have functionality while the car is in motion?
me trying to figure things out earlier today https: //youtu.be/ ionETf7ZL30
johnleewins said:
I also have a 2016 Civic and went through all same things.
On another note, has anyone figured out how to do the brake bypass, how to ground it? I used the web browser by tethering my phone and youtube videos loaded fine, but it won't work if the car is not parked. Anyone know how to have functionality while the car is in motion?
me trying to figure things out earlier today https: //youtu.be/ ionETf7ZL30
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's more complicated than that I'm sure. I'm pretty sure it's getting speed sensor information. Also in the hidden diagnostic menu there are two entries that are something like VIDEO Moving or something like that and it's value is 0 meaning that it's off.
an1m3psycho said:
I've tried having the apk files on a USB and was able to see the apk files, but the "install" button was grayed out so I couldn't install it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you turn the power off then quickly back on, the button is no longer grayed out and you can select it but even still, the install still fails later on.
You guys are a lot smarter than me. Maybe this will help out?
civicx.com/threads/navi-on-non-navi-model-is-it-possible.3107
There is hidden usb port, when you open device. Search on forum, there sre threads where people are trying to root it
jdubau55 said:
It's more complicated than that I'm sure. I'm pretty sure it's getting speed sensor information. Also in the hidden diagnostic menu there are two entries that are something like VIDEO Moving or something like that and it's value is 0 meaning that it's off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where i can find those settings? can you point out ?
Developper mode asked password
My Honda Civic 2016 (Canadian version) asked me a password to activate the Developper mode. Any one here had the same issue, i have done a complete reset of the system to default and still the same things.
To be clear, after tapping 7 time on Build number, the popup appeared.
My Android Version is 4.2.2 Build: 1.F186.67 and Model number: MY16ADA
Pls help !!
zahurkho said:
My Honda Civic 2016 (Canadian version) asked me a password to activate the Developper mode. Any one here had the same issue, i have done a complete reset of the system to default and still the same things.
To be clear, after tapping 7 time on Build number, the popup appeared.
My Android Version is 4.2.2 Build: 1.F186.67 and Model number: MY16ADA
Pls help !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USA version is the same way it asks for a passcord I believe it is a USB cord for diagnostic that Honda has
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
So I came into possession of a commercial grade advertising kiosk (Nintendo Amiibo Display) that runs an Android OS 4.1.1. The device is setup to auto load the "AmiiboFrameWork.apk" package installed. The model of the system is DucoTech D185-ACA-720. I can access basic Android settings menus through a special key combination. Mainly system information, network setup, and volume controls. There is a menu that says App Install and gives the option of installing APKs from SD card or USB with a file structure of USB:\APKFiles\ or SD Card:\ApkFiles\. However no matter how I layout my file structure or name my APKs following that structure nothing appears in this menu to install. However There is a media tab for photos with a similar structure and photos I put on the card do show up. What I'm trying to figure out is how either install APKs, or access the base android system so I can customize the system to run custom apps I plan on making for it. However I want to retain the original AmiiboFrameWork APK or the whole OS so I can restore the system later if I want.
Now what I have tried is plugging it into my PC via the USB-OTG port while on, putting APKs in various file structures and naming conventions, booting it with my PC connected via OTG port, tried to trick my way into other menus through keyboard and settings menu tricks (similar to how people use to bypass lock screen security through menus).
Results:
1. OTG to PC while on: Device shows up as 2 USB 2.0 Flash drives in device manager. The drives appear in my computer but aren't accessible. ADB doesn't see it as an android device.
2. APKs on usb: Nothing shows up in the menu regardless of my naming convention or file structure.
3. Boot device while attached to PC via OTG port: My computer detects it as an NES Classic (previously installed the driver to mod my classic). This leads me to think its an Allwinner device or similar since that is what the driver was made for I believe? ADB still doesn't see it. This might be my best bet to get in.
4. Menus: Options are very limited and I wasn't able to access anything valuable aside from Install APK, Transfer Media, and Set startup APK.
5. Tapping build number: Tapping the build number in settings any number of times doesn't activate the developer mode options. The prompt doesn't even appear for it.
If anyone can assist in trying to gain access to this system, or even figure out the file structure so I can just install my own APKs like I want that would be great. Any ideas on where to look, what to try, and so on is greatly appreciated.
Here are some photos of the main board just in case
Any new updates to this? I made the mistake of uninstalling the Amiibo Framework APK so now all I can do is see the settings menu with no ability to install any APKS. Copying media files over does work though.
hedburnr said:
Any new updates to this? I made the mistake of uninstalling the Amiibo Framework APK so now all I can do is see the settings menu with no ability to install any APKS. Copying media files over does work though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IDK what to say man other than what in God's name made u think framework.res needed to be pulled. It's gone man barring the original firmware and itself install method
hedburnr said:
Any new updates to this? I made the mistake of uninstalling the Amiibo Framework APK so now all I can do is see the settings menu with no ability to install any APKS. Copying media files over does work though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I work with Ducos! In fact there's an Amiibo kiosk a few feet from me here in our offices
mojoswagger1980 said:
IDK what to say man other than what in God's name made u think framework.res needed to be pulled. It's gone man barring the original firmware and itself install method
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AmiiboFramework doesn't have anything to do with the "framework.res", Nintendo just called the app the "AmiiboFramework"
They only install APKs with a specific package name in a specific folder on your USB device / SD Card (com.general.mediaplayer.player). Unfortunately Nintendo used a different folder than us, and I don't recall what it was. You can go into a "normal" Android screen using a special procedure if the AmiiboFramework app is installed, but it should work without it too:
- Wait for the Loading screen to appear
- Begin to press the CSR and Setup buttons together, quickly alternating between them. Repeat until the CSR appears
- After the CSR appears, leaving the screen open for an extended period of time will cause the Amiibo Display Framework to re-appear
- If Alt+Tab is used, be sure to return to the CSR before returning to any other app, or the CSR will reboot the player
Alt+Tab refers to using a USB keyboard, after you have the CSR up you can exit with it.
They're really not great hardware for general usage.
selaliadobor said:
I work with Ducos! In fact there's an Amiibo kiosk a few feet from me here in our offices
AmiiboFramework doesn't have anything to do with the "framework.res", Nintendo just called the app the "AmiiboFramework"
They only install APKs with a specific package name in a specific folder on your USB device / SD Card (com.general.mediaplayer.player). Unfortunately Nintendo used a different folder than us, and I don't recall what it was. You can go into a "normal" Android screen using a special procedure if the AmiiboFramework app is installed, but it should work without it too:
- Wait for the Loading screen to appear
- Begin to press the CSR and Setup buttons together, quickly alternating between them. Repeat until the CSR appears
- After the CSR appears, leaving the screen open for an extended period of time will cause the Amiibo Display Framework to re-appear
- If Alt+Tab is used, be sure to return to the CSR before returning to any other app, or the CSR will reboot the player
Alt+Tab refers to using a USB keyboard, after you have the CSR up you can exit with it.
They're really not great hardware for general usage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ohh, I tried to call and they wouldn't answer any of my questions lol. Is it possible to get any documentation on it? I'm sure Nintendo did their own setup, but having original documentation is a good step forward for what we have now. I'd love to setup my own configuration on it even if the hardware is meh.
Enmity said:
Ohh, I tried to call and they wouldn't answer any of my questions lol. Is it possible to get any documentation on it? I'm sure Nintendo did their own setup, but having original documentation is a good step forward for what we have now. I'd love to setup my own configuration on it even if the hardware is meh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn't much more documentation than what I mentioned unfortunately. The people who you'd get in a call definitely don't know anything about them (I don't think Nintendo made the AmiiboFramework app in-house either). If you want to repurpose it, you can try getting into the CSR and going into the normal Android Launcher. Try connecting over ADB and force-stopping any process with the letters "csr" in it's name
---------- Post added at 11:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------
Enmity said:
Ohh, I tried to call and they wouldn't answer any of my questions lol. Is it possible to get any documentation on it? I'm sure Nintendo did their own setup, but having original documentation is a good step forward for what we have now. I'd love to setup my own configuration on it even if the hardware is meh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn't much more documentation than what I mentioned unfortunately. The people who you'd get in a call definitely don't know anything about them (I don't think Nintendo made the AmiiboFramework app in-house either). If you want to repurpose it, you can try getting into the CSR and going into the normal Android Launcher. Try connecting over ADB and force-stopping any process with the letters "csr" in it's name
To connect to ADB use a USB mini cable on the "USB OTG" port and ClockworkMod's Universal ADB Driver
I have a few devices similar to this. They are duco DT156-AS4-1080. I was wanting to repurpose them as video players. The devices are wiped of content and load into a main menu. There is an option to exit to administrator, though it asks for a password. I dumped the partitions and tried to look through the binaries, but am unable to come up with anything. I can get into superSU and then exit to playstore, but then some type of watchdog kicks me back to the duco menu. Any help appreciated.
er0ck said:
I have a few devices similar to this. They are duco DT156-AS4-1080. I was wanting to repurpose them as video players. The devices are wiped of content and load into a main menu. There is an option to exit to administrator, though it asks for a password. I dumped the partitions and tried to look through the binaries, but am unable to come up with anything. I can get into superSU and then exit to playstore, but then some type of watchdog kicks me back to the duco menu. Any help appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just uninstall com.general.mediaplayer.* (anything that starts with that package name) and you should have a normal device
I DID IT! Working tablet
So the story is yesterday I found an Amiibo display at my apartment dumpster where people put stuff they don't want that still works, I nabbed it with the intention of salvaging the "monitor." Judging by the hammer-marks on the acrylic enclosure, and pry marks on the metal cage that held the power supplies for the led strips and the tablet I assume somebody took it home, got frustrated by the locks and screws after some prying, and just busted in the acrylic window to get to the floor model Amiibos.
I cracked it open, and after some fun with a butane torch to melt the acrylic around the screws open (damn security hex) was surprised to find that the "monitor" had a usb dongle plugged into it. I plugged it into my station and found it was a 2.4/5 GHZ wifi dongle.
All code here is from Windows power shell since I don't like to dual boot my main gaming rig. Usually I just use the Bash on Ubuntu on Windows developer option for stuff like this, but I didn't know if the fact I was using Windows usb drivers to connect to this would cause problems and I wanted one fewer step to troubleshoot if I had issues. Forgive me penguin for I have sinned.
I found the item number on the back of it and after some googling found it was an android device. Score!
I plugged the tablet in and it went into an Amiibo advertisement kiosk mode.
After about 8 hours I now have a limited (but functional!) giant Android tablet.
To any future adventurers I am making a guide to get you up and running quickly.
I followed selaliadobor's instructions:
To connect to ADB use a USB mini cable on the "USB OTG" port and ClockworkMod's Universal ADB Driver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As well as pressing CSR and Setup to get into the settings screen. This was interesting, but ultimately didn't do much. However using
Code:
./adb shell logcat >> log.txt
and waiting for it to reboot from the csr menu led me to find (with some help from my engineer father) that /system/app/CSR_A003_20160304_BT.apk was the culprit of the restarts.
This was solved with
Code:
./adb shell rm /system/app/CSR_A003_20160304_BT.apk
From there I was stuck. But then I discovered: THE CSR SETTINGS MENU IS NOT THE REAL ANDROID SETTINGS MENU. To get to the real android settings menu use this:
Code:
./adb shell am start -a android.settings.SETTINGS
This allows you to do a factory reset!
However when it reboots the default launcher is stripped of important features like back/home/running apps, keyboard, a launcher etc. I sideloaded the following apps:
Chrome Browser
Microsoft Arrow Launcher (I originally used Nova but it was too much a ram hog to be useful)
Multiling Keyboard (I originally used Swiftkey, but it too was taking up too much ram)
WebTube (stripped down youTube frontend)
Soft Keys (so I had a home and back button, the running apps button still doesn't work :'( )
First post so no links ;(
imgur .com/dGAOmoM
This is what it looks like after boot. I may also have an affinity for Amiibos.
imgur .com/uQ8u7js
Classic.
Quick note: This device doesn't support google play services, so no hulu, official youtube, netflix unfortunately. Try as I might I haven't found a solution.
i bought a box of these units a while back from the carboot and wanted to use them in our coffee shop were opening, i too didnt have much luck with them then i saw this thread, i know abit about computers but never messed with android, we basically wanted to use them for what they are used for now for displaying changing menus and advertising etc, i downloaded the clockworkmods adb, now how to enter the "./adb shell logcat >> log.txt" etc, presumably i just connect the otg port to the pc (win10) run the clockworkmod program then i use commandpromt? i did try it but i couldnt get it to work, do i have to put the android device into a mode like csr? any help would be appreciated?
N/A
Additional help needed
i got to the settings menu but it is only temporary i am wanting it to be like a regular tablet where can i get a rom to do that? to flash it so it will function like a galaxy tab 3 or so, as i would love to use my DT101-ASA-800 like a normal tablet with a keyboard and mouse. any help would be welcomed. as the factory reset doesn't let it work any different it keeps going straight to CSR settings.
so stuck... my head hurts
so i can not get my Model DT185-ACA-720 to connect to my pc..... ok it connects and a K: and F: drive appear but I cant access them. I managed to get .apk files to show up and transfer to the 12gb storage on the tablet but i cant access the storage on the tablet... im so lost... I downloaded the universal driver and ADB but both changed nothing... If anyone has any advice or updates im all ears since I basically destroyed the Kiosk to get this tablet free
jaybanc said:
i bought a box of these units a while back from the carboot and wanted to use them in our coffee shop were opening, i too didnt have much luck with them then i saw this thread, i know abit about computers but never messed with android, we basically wanted to use them for what they are used for now for displaying changing menus and advertising etc, i downloaded the clockworkmods adb, now how to enter the "./adb shell logcat >> log.txt" etc, presumably i just connect the otg port to the pc (win10) run the clockworkmod program then i use commandpromt? i did try it but i couldnt get it to work, do i have to put the android device into a mode like csr? any help would be appreciated?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same issue here with the DT133-AC4-900 that I managed to pull out of a trashed google nest display from where I work. I managed to get the device to always load to the DUCO app by uninstalling the mediaplayer throught the DUCO app. However that is as far as I can get as the device will not communicate with ADB at all. Not sure if it's a win10 thing or if it's the device itself.
TheArcticGentoo said:
I DID IT! Working tablet
So the story is yesterday I found an Amiibo display at my apartment dumpster where people put stuff they don't want that still works, I nabbed it with the intention of salvaging the "monitor." Judging by the hammer-marks on the acrylic enclosure, and pry marks on the metal cage that held the power supplies for the led strips and the tablet I assume somebody took it home, got frustrated by the locks and screws after some prying, and just busted in the acrylic window to get to the floor model Amiibos.
I cracked it open, and after some fun with a butane torch to melt the acrylic around the screws open (damn security hex) was surprised to find that the "monitor" had a usb dongle plugged into it. I plugged it into my station and found it was a 2.4/5 GHZ wifi dongle.
All code here is from Windows power shell since I don't like to dual boot my main gaming rig. Usually I just use the Bash on Ubuntu on Windows developer option for stuff like this, but I didn't know if the fact I was using Windows usb drivers to connect to this would cause problems and I wanted one fewer step to troubleshoot if I had issues. Forgive me penguin for I have sinned.
I found the item number on the back of it and after some googling found it was an android device. Score!
I plugged the tablet in and it went into an Amiibo advertisement kiosk mode.
After about 8 hours I now have a limited (but functional!) giant Android tablet.
To any future adventurers I am making a guide to get you up and running quickly.
I followed selaliadobor's instructions:
As well as pressing CSR and Setup to get into the settings screen. This was interesting, but ultimately didn't do much. However using
Code:
./adb shell logcat >> log.txt
and waiting for it to reboot from the csr menu led me to find (with some help from my engineer father) that /system/app/CSR_A003_20160304_BT.apk was the culprit of the restarts.
This was solved with
Code:
./adb shell rm /system/app/CSR_A003_20160304_BT.apk
From there I was stuck. But then I discovered: THE CSR SETTINGS MENU IS NOT THE REAL ANDROID SETTINGS MENU. To get to the real android settings menu use this:
Code:
./adb shell am start -a android.settings.SETTINGS
This allows you to do a factory reset!
However when it reboots the default launcher is stripped of important features like back/home/running apps, keyboard, a launcher etc. I sideloaded the following apps:
Chrome Browser
Microsoft Arrow Launcher (I originally used Nova but it was too much a ram hog to be useful)
Multiling Keyboard (I originally used Swiftkey, but it too was taking up too much ram)
WebTube (stripped down youTube frontend)
Soft Keys (so I had a home and back button, the running apps button still doesn't work :'( )
First post so no links ;(
imgur .com/dGAOmoM
This is what it looks like after boot. I may also have an affinity for Amiibos.
imgur .com/uQ8u7js
Classic.
Quick note: This device doesn't support google play services, so no hulu, official youtube, netflix unfortunately. Try as I might I haven't found a solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This worked, but I couldn't get ADB to work in Windows, I had to go grab my laptop running Deepin Linux and set up ADB on that, but no USB drivers are needed in Linux, so once I set up ADB, it just worked. So I'm hoping that might be the solution for others who are having trouble, just use Linux, it just works. ADB works on the CSR level, so no need for security key. Got CPU-Z on there for any curious about the hardware specs, my model is a DT101-ASA-800
Hello everyone,
I've got an 'error: This device cannot start (Code 10) after manually installing Android ADB Device driver within Window's Device Manager. Android ADB Device is displayed with a yellow exclamation mark. This results in a blank answer after 'adb devices'. In other words: my laptop cannot connect to my watch and thereby I can't install Watch Droid Assistant on my watch.
I really need this app because of it's notification history feature, even after opening the notification (just like the amazfit Bip has)!
And secondly because of the possibility of increasing the font size.
Does anyone know the cause & the solution?
Thanks in advance!
Robert.
P.S. While being a newbie on 'tweaking' the Amazfit Stratos, I've some additional questions:
1. Will installing Watch Droid Assistant void warranty (unlocking the bootloader?)?
2. Are there risks of bricking my Amazfit Stratos (how high?)?
3. Is it (after installling WDA) possible to install additional apps such as a calculator or calendar etc. ? Or do I need Applist?
Used hardware, software and versions:
Watch Droid Assistant (27.03.2018 - version 6.1)
Amazfit Stratos (US version, FW: 2.3.4.0)
Windows 7 Home Premium (SP1 64-bit)
I've used "15 seconds ADB Installer v1.4.3.exe" from XDA website (ADB: yes, system-wide: no, device drivers: yes).
1. Installing WD won't void anything, as with any other APK. Unlocking bootloader will void watch's warranty as soon as you enter the code to unlock it.
2. Almost zero, unless you are very unlucky. Uninstall or a factory reset will remove any apps from watch.
3. You can add other apps, but be aware that the watch has only 512MB of RAM so you don't want to install anything that runs in the background, slowing it down.
As for the drivers, if removing the device and/or forcing a driver refresh doesn't work, you may need to disable driver signature on Win 64-bits (bcdedit /set TESTSIGNNING OFF), something like this:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us...est-mode-message-that-is-displayed-in-windows
theres an app for receiving messages and theres a thread in this forum about it. look for notifications for amazfit (with a red icon) on the google play store. its nice and simple, allows you to change text size and all. and its very cheap.
last watch and app updates kind of messed it up a little but the devs seem to be very caring and may be already looking for solutions. all in all, its usable now.
Thank lfom
xxxdiegoxxx said:
theres an app for receiving messages and theres a thread in this forum about it. look for notifications for amazfit (with a red icon) on the google play store. its nice and simple, allows you to change text size and all. and its very cheap.
last watch and app updates kind of messed it up a little but the devs seem to be very caring and may be already looking for solutions. all in all, its usable now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
watch droid assistant?
thanks
I had a problem with my usb connection on my Pace. Turns out the two pins for the usb connection were corroded. But I managed to install apks (especially Watch Droid assistant), through wifi and ADB commands.
Again, this has been done on an Amazfit Pace, through ADB commands on Linux, specifically on Kubuntu 18.04. I don't have the Stratos, so I don't know if this applies to that watch.
1. Go to Settings - Connection - WiFi and connect to your WiFi network. Now this is important. In order to maintain connection, you have to be in the WiFi tab AND keep the screen on at all times, until you finish the installation (look for an app called Pace-On, for later installations).
2. Find your watch's IP. I did that by looking on my router's connected devices.
3. Open terminal (or CMD) and type adb connect and put your watch's IP. Example:
adb connect 192.168.0.15
4. Type adb devices, to make sure and verify that your device is connected.
5. Type adb install /path/to/apk/application.apk
(Where /path/to/apk/application.apk is the path you downloaded or placed your app) If you get an error or failure of installation (it usually happens when you have an older version of the same app) try to type
adb install -r /path/to/apk/application.apk
Another way is to manually delete the old version app and install the new one. You'll figure it out.
6. Wait for it to finish. When it does, see if the app is installed on your watch. You don't (usually) have to restart the watch, but if you feel that there is a need to do so, then do so.
That's it! Hope it helps.
Hi guys, I figured this out last year and after finding a forum about bypassing securely on here about it I decided to make a post about it so enjoy
Step 1:
Go to https://cdome.comodo.com/shield/ click get it for free, and create an account
When you've finished signing up, go back to https://cdome.comodo.com/shield/# and login (Your username is your email).
Step 2:
When you first login a box should popup onto your screen with a bunch of green text at the bottom of it. If this doesn't happen, on the top right part of your screen there should be a button that says setup wizard in blue. Just click that.
Step 3:
For this step, you will have to be at whatever place you need it blocked at. Make sure your connected to your school or work wifi, then open a new tab and go to https://whatsmyip.com/ and copy the ip it tells you. Close that tab and now paste the numbers into where it says Ipv4 address/ FQDN. Name it whatever you want, then click save, next, and "start using dome shield".
Step 4:
Now in the top left of your screen you should see a button that says configure. Click it. On the left hand side of the screen now, you should see a menu with the option B/W lists under policy settings. Click that, and then click new B/W list in the top right. As usual, give it a name, and click next. For this part, first, make sure blacklist is ticked and not whitelist. Now what you need to do is in the domain name field, add securly.com, press the plus next to where you just typed that, and press create.
Step 5:
Now, using the menu on the right, click add new policy at the top.. Give it a name, and for object select the wifi you named in step three, and click next. What you need to do now it make sure that both switches at the top are moved to the right, and then under domain B/W list tick the one that you made in the last step and then click save. That's all you need to do on the website.
Step 6:
Now all you need to do is open your chromebook settings by clicking your icon on the far right of your shelf, and then clicking the gear icon on the menu that pops up. In the window that pops up, click on wifi, it should be the first option. Select the wifi that you used in the previous steps, and then expand the network tab. Scroll down, and you should see a section labeled name servers. Select custom name servers, and you should now see four lines for text input. In the first one, put 8.26.56.10 and in the second put 8.20.247.10 and you can leave the last two blank.
Step 7:
The last thing you need to do is pretty quick. Just go to chrome://net-internals/#dns and click clear host cache.
Afterward:
Now your done! It may take a few minutes to take effect so be patient. If it doesn't try disconnecting and reconnecting to the wifi and clearing the cache again. Soon though, you should notice that securely doesn't do anything anymore. Pretty much what you have done, is made it so when your Chromebook asks securely if a page needs blocked, securely doesn't respond and your Chromebook assumes its okay. The only problem with this method is that you have to setup each wifi you want things unblocked on, so for every new wifi you want unblocked you need to repeat steps 3 and 5-7. Overall though, I would say this is the best way because your only going to use the Chromebook at whatever place issued it to you and maybe your house so you only really need to do it at most twice. That's all, and if you have any questions or problems please ask and I'll do my best to help
securly blocked cdome.comodo.com any suggestions?
reee
lil chickenz said:
Step 5:
Now, using the menu on the right, click add new policy at the top.. Give it a name, and for object select the wifi you named in step three, and click next. What you need to do now it make sure that both switches at the top are moved to the right, and then under domain B/W list tick the one that you made in the last step and then click save. That's all you need to do on the website.
on step 5 what did you mean when you said both switches to the right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
disable securly
DeanGulBairy said:
securly blocked cdome.comodo.com any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its easy put in this in the search bar bit.ly/securlysucks
Then just keep the tab open and securly is no more!
P.S. if it isn't working search it up again.
I don't have smart device
Also, sorry for mis title, i changed it since i got through it. But for this i need a Business. I do not have a business since i am 13 and for this like Enterprise or MSP when it wants me to make me go and get one, but i don't have one. Also can you tell me where to go, like bottom of the screen or top for the step one? I have been on step one confused for like 30 minutes now. Can you help me?
help
dsfsd said:
Its easy put in this in the search bar bit.ly/securlysucks
Then just keep the tab open and securly is no more!
P.S. if it isn't working search it up again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did this and it actually worked. however i dont wanna get in trouble and i cant seem to turn it off. ive tried restarting my computer and its still unblocked. please help
Yikes, doesn't work at all
i put bit.ly/securlysucks in my browser and left it there for a little and nothing happend, everything is still blocked, any other things i can do to block securly?
This doesn't work lol
I don't like wanna watch innapropiate things I just want to watch YouTube
I reccomend if all this doesn't work just use your phone or regular computer. I also saw somebody like take apart the chromebook heres the link
This MIGHT work because you could unenroll and then disable the Securly or whatever.
You could also tell your school to stop using it but I doubt that will work.
The website is blocked.
DeanGulBairy said:
securly blocked cdome.comodo.com any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same
ArionSookdeo_2008 said:
I don't like wanna watch innapropiate things I just want to watch YouTube
I reccomend if all this doesn't work just use your phone or regular computer. I also saw somebody like take apart the chromebook heres the link
This MIGHT work because you could unenroll and then disable the Securly or whatever.
You could also tell your school to stop using it but I doubt that will work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am in wdmcs to
lil chickenz said:
Hi guys, I figured this out last year and after finding a forum about bypassing securely on here about it I decided to make a post about it so enjoy
Step 1:
Go to https://cdome.comodo.com/shield/ click get it for free, and create an account
When you've finished signing up, go back to https://cdome.comodo.com/shield/# and login (Your username is your email).
Step 2:
When you first login a box should popup onto your screen with a bunch of green text at the bottom of it. If this doesn't happen, on the top right part of your screen there should be a button that says setup wizard in blue. Just click that.
Step 3:
For this step, you will have to be at whatever place you need it blocked at. Make sure your connected to your school or work wifi, then open a new tab and go to https://whatsmyip.com/ and copy the ip it tells you. Close that tab and now paste the numbers into where it says Ipv4 address/ FQDN. Name it whatever you want, then click save, next, and "start using dome shield".
Step 4:
Now in the top left of your screen you should see a button that says configure. Click it. On the left hand side of the screen now, you should see a menu with the option B/W lists under policy settings. Click that, and then click new B/W list in the top right. As usual, give it a name, and click next. For this part, first, make sure blacklist is ticked and not whitelist. Now what you need to do is in the domain name field, add securly.com, press the plus next to where you just typed that, and press create.
Step 5:
Now, using the menu on the right, click add new policy at the top.. Give it a name, and for object select the wifi you named in step three, and click next. What you need to do now it make sure that both switches at the top are moved to the right, and then under domain B/W list tick the one that you made in the last step and then click save. That's all you need to do on the website.
Step 6:
Now all you need to do is open your chromebook settings by clicking your icon on the far right of your shelf, and then clicking the gear icon on the menu that pops up. In the window that pops up, click on wifi, it should be the first option. Select the wifi that you used in the previous steps, and then expand the network tab. Scroll down, and you should see a section labeled name servers. Select custom name servers, and you should now see four lines for text input. In the first one, put 8.26.56.10 and in the second put 8.20.247.10 and you can leave the last two blank.
Step 7:
The last thing you need to do is pretty quick. Just go to chrome://net-internals/#dns and click clear host cache.
Afterward:
Now your done! It may take a few minutes to take effect so be patient. If it doesn't try disconnecting and reconnecting to the wifi and clearing the cache again. Soon though, you should notice that securely doesn't do anything anymore. Pretty much what you have done, is made it so when your Chromebook asks securely if a page needs blocked, securely doesn't respond and your Chromebook assumes its okay. The only problem with this method is that you have to setup each wifi you want things unblocked on, so for every new wifi you want unblocked you need to repeat steps 3 and 5-7. Overall though, I would say this is the best way because your only going to use the Chromebook at whatever place issued it to you and maybe your house so you only really need to do it at most twice. That's all, and if you have any questions or problems please ask and I'll do my best to help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't do that. The two URLs in step one are blocked
this link might work for you for youtube https://jonahkc.github.io/youtube-unblcked/
wouldnt it be better for a coder to create a whole browser thing that cant get the school blocker through coding but you can access that browser through google and make it to where the school cannot block it
if you go to this link https://replit.com/@JonasFlynn/Bookmarklets?v=1 it tells you how to disable any extensions. But it stopped working for me a week ago with the new Chromebook update, but it might work for you
lucky10002 said:
if you go to this link https://replit.com/@JonasFlynn/Bookmarklets?v=1 it tells you how to disable any extensions. But it stopped working for me a week ago with the new Chromebook update, but it might work for you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thx i might be able actually get stuff done
for some reason https://www.unblockyoutube.co/ is not blocked, and this is a proxy that is not slow, but for some reason I get an error code 520 but for most of my classmates it works as a proxy that you can use to play anything. this link https://rmehy1.sse.codesandbox.io/ sometimes works sometimes it doesn't but it isn't blocked for me. you can change the tab title and icon whenever you are using your proxy, for example, you could change shell shockers title to classroom and the image to look like classroom but if the teachers have securely classroom if they look at your tabs they can still see what you are doing, It also has some built-in games. The bad thing about it though is that it is a bit slow and some of the proxies (since you can pick which proxy you want to use) don't even work. this might work for you but it doesn't work for me https://website-aio.jonasflynn.repl.co/
this link https://rmehy1.sse.codesandbox.io/ sometimes works sometimes it doesn't but it isn't blocked for me. you can change the tab title and icon whenever you are using your proxy, for example, you could change shell shockers title to classroom and the image to look like classroom but if the teachers have securely classroom if they look at your tabs they can still see what you are doing, It also has some built-in games. The bad thing about it though is that it is a bit slow and some of the proxies (since you can pick which proxy you want to use) don't even work