I've only had my v30 for a week and I dropped it in the back glass shattered the worst shatter is in the corner and it's small but it looks pretty deep so I was wondering if it's okay if I filled it witg super glue to try to make my phone waterproof again
use some elastic glue which do not melt plastic or a strong dual side adhesive tape
A 2-part epoxy would fill in the gaps and give you plenty of time to spread it evenly before it sets. Super Glue sets really quickly, isn't flexible and can make a mess.
ED2O9 said:
A 2-part epoxy would fill in the gaps and give you plenty of time to spread it evenly before it sets. Super Glue sets really quickly, isn't flexible and can make a mess.
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Click to collapse
in case you need to open the phone again will you be able to remove the cover if you will use epoxy?
Really, your best option is to just replace the back glass. Kits sell for less than $20 on Ebay and Amazon, and they include the adhesive. The toughest part is of the replacement procedure is not cracking the original glass, but yours is already shattered so that's not a concern. It would look good as new and retain water resistance (assuming you do a good job with the installation).
Related
Howdy all,
What size double sided tape should I use to stick my Asus TF201 digitizer and LCD back together? I have 3 options, a 1mm, 2mm and 3mm double sided tape. Not sure whats on it now, but if anyone has an idea I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
Nightpath said:
Howdy all,
What size double sided tape should I use to stick my Asus TF201 digitizer and LCD back together? I have 3 options, a 1mm, 2mm and 3mm double sided tape. Not sure whats on it now, but if anyone has an idea I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recommend not using any foam tape at all to stick the digitizer to the LCD. I thought there'd be light leaks if I didn't. There were no light leaks. I used double-sided scotch tape to stick the digizer to the front bezel. It worked very well.
If you *do* use foam tape to stick the LCD to the digitizer, you'll go ape-**** crazy if you notice any fingerprints or particles on the inside of the digizer. Without sticking the two together, you can easily separate the two if you need to.
So double sided scotch tape eh? Whats the difference, just easier to take apart if you have to?
Might be an idea, seems to be more of it around here and waaayyy cheaper
Would this be it (put in b0p 1n0 if it asks for a postal code)? : http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/c...191,4,6&name=CA_SK_SCOTCH+-+Double-Sided+Tape
here's another, says it's removeable tape so I don't think that's a great idea : http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/cat_sku.asp?CatIds=3,3191,4,6&webid=33734&affixedcode=WW
Here's mounting tape, would this work too you think? http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/cat_skuset.asp?CatIds=3,3191,4,6&name=CA_SK_3M+-+Mounting+Tape
And here's a tape of MC Hammer : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otCpCn0l4Wo
LOL on the MC Hammer!
On the mounting tape, keep in mind that the Prime's display has two types of mounting tape. The digitizer glass is affixed to the plastic bezel with very thin (and very sticky) double-sided celophane type adhesive. Then, the LCD is affixed with black foam tape (and screws). i used the Scotch tape to stick my digitizer to the bezel. This had the advantage of being very easy to trim with an exacto. I chose not to use any foam tape at all with the LCD and just rely on the screws to hold it in place. I was needlessly worried about light bleed. It did not. It was fine.
By not using foam tape, I had the HUGE advantage of being able to later remove a tiny speck of debris that got sandwiched between the LCD and digitizer. It was very small, but drove me nuts. If I had used foam tape to mount the LCD, the risk of breaking the damned thing again would have been too great to try removing the speck. It'd still be there.
I highly recommend not using any foam tape. At least try without first. You can always add it later if your heart is set on it. I've read other threads where folks ended up breaking the digitizer or LCD when having a foam-tape malfunction (stuck to the wrong spot, wasn't lined up right, etc.).
I don't use cheap tape or scotch tape (3m) as generally it's not sticky enough for most jobs like this.
I highly recommend mammoth tape for this job. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=m...AW81oG4Bg&sqi=2&ved=0CFoQrQQ&biw=1067&bih=693 don't get the one with the cloth membrane (labeled as Heavy duty double sided tape) as its too thick and very hard to cut, the one you need is labeled "multi purpose double sided tape".
I get it from a builders merchants but you can get it online. I have tried many brands and alternatives but mammoth is the best stuff I have found.
Ultimately folks can do whatever they want and feel comfortable with. I would council any close friends to just go with the double-sided Scotch tape to stick the digitizer glass to the bezel. It's plenty sticky enough and there's enough (around 1m total perimeter) that you get a good stick. BONUS: It's good and cheap.
With as fragile as the digitizer glass is, you really don't want to screw around with ridiculously sticky adhesives. On the likely chance (unless you're a pro) that you don't set the glass in the bezel just right, highly sticky adhesive is going to make repositioning much harder and you may very well break the new glass trying to reposition.
I highly recommend not using any adhesive at all to hold the LCD to the digitizer for the reasons I've already mentioned. You'll really wish you hadn't.
Jgrimoldy said:
Ultimately folks can do whatever they want and feel comfortable with. I would council any close friends to just go with the double-sided Scotch tape to stick the digitizer glass to the bezel. It's plenty sticky enough and there's enough (around 1m total perimeter) that you get a good stick. BONUS: It's good and cheap.
With as fragile as the digitizer glass is, you really don't want to screw around with ridiculously sticky adhesives. On the likely chance (unless you're a pro) that you don't set the glass in the bezel just right, highly sticky adhesive is going to make repositioning much harder and you may very well break the new glass trying to reposition.
I highly recommend not using any adhesive at all to hold the LCD to the digitizer for the reasons I've already mentioned. You'll really wish you hadn't.
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Click to collapse
That's what I was thinking. My LCD was slightly cracked on the edge, but not noticeable. With the 2 sided Scotch tape ($5 here) if it breaks again I can replace it without totally busting the LCD. And if it's sitting in a decent case the screen is going to be reinforced anyway.
Nightpath said:
That's what I was thinking. My LCD was slightly cracked on the edge, but not noticeable. With the 2 sided Scotch tape ($5 here) if it breaks again I can replace it without totally busting the LCD. And if it's sitting in a decent case the screen is going to be reinforced anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure going without the foam is the right thing in all instances. I'm working on a Casio G'Zone Commando, replacing the digitizer, and noticed that the digitizer will only work accurately if it is elevated slightly more than if it just sits on the frame where the foam tape was at. I can't tell if the digitizer is just wonky or if the slight elevation caused by the foam tape is needed with this phone.
So after much thought i considered the pros and the cons of removing the film and decided to remove it as the oleophobic had worn away in less than 2 months. This will give you the information you need to remove it if you wish and how to do it properly without damage to your device or at least help you to not damage it.
1st. The tools you will need are as follows
1. razor blade thinner and or flat at one end
2. nail polish remover ( to remove the glue after)
3. cloth of some kind microfiber preferred 2 works best
4. "Recommended if no screen protector replacement"
Rain-x or some kind of wax or an oleophobic coating apply several coats
5. band aids or tape for your fingers as they will be put through alot of pushing and will be raw afterward
so know that this won't come in 1 sheet it will be coming off in chips and if your lucky it will come in larger chips and small sheets. when you start pick a corner that you can get at easlily. once you get a little up know that your going for a large enough area that you can get the entire blade under so you can slide it forward under the sheet as this will provide the least amount of damage if any the screen won't scratch this way but if you take the blade sliding up or down it will leave scratches so alway push the blade forward and leave it at a tilt just enough to get the sheet there is a layer of glue just as thick under. if you can see the glue when it comes up your doing well.
==warning== while you scrap this blade across your device be cautious not to get the sides of it as they are just high enough they will get scraped and nicked
after you have removed all the film you will need to use the nail polish remover to get the glue off it will come off slowly and there will be alot of small balls as it is moved off some will desolve the rest will come off in small balls. dont be afraid to use plenty it will make it will make it easier.
after all this wash with water only scrub clean and dry then apply a coating or screen protector whichever you wish .
==Important== know if you use wax some will get into the sides if your not careful with enough water and and cloth you can get access out. best to use waxes that are clear or liquid ones work well.
if you have any questions or if i have left anything out pls ask
Once you've peeled up 1 corner, you can use a credit card instead of a blade to slide it forward. It's safer that way.
If you're a single man and don't have nail polish remover, you can use concentrated alcohol instead. Cloth, Q-tips and rubbing alcohol worked really well for me.
I do not know if this has been mentioned or brought up before, but I just wanted to let the G2 crowd know that if they want to go the cheaper route and replace just the digitizer on their G2, it is possible with patience! You will be separating the glass from the LCD with a little bit of heat and a lot of caution, so as not to bust that beautiful LCD that these things are packin'. As you all may already know, the front glass is the digitizer so it'll all be replaced and your touch will work again, without busting the bank! This should only be considered if you're a very handy person with some superfine motor skills.
All you really need is a steady heat source of around 200F. I use a griddle, similar to this
http://www.walmart.com/ip/16451315?...56276670&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=34449323470&veh=sem
Most people have one of these laying around in a cabinet.
Get on eBay and find the digitizer for the phone and some LOCA UV Adhesive. 10ML is way more than enough.
Take the phone apart, then lay the LCD/Digitizer face down on that griddle and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Use a razor blade to VERY CAREFULLY and slowly peel the glass back. You should see the glass separating from the LCD. Continue this and take your time until all of the glass is removed. Then clean the LCD. It takes some work, this glue is extremely sticky and the only thing I've found to completely remove it is Clorox Surface wipes. They're the kind that come presoaked with some kind of cleaner. Even those take a little elbow grease to completely remove the glue from the LCD surface. It should be shiny. A couple specs wont matter, the LOCA has proven to be great at hiding imperfections. Next you will remove the LCD from the frame of the phone. There will be some connectors following through the bottom half of the phone to the PCB that has the charging port on it. Once the LCD is removed, add a line of LOCA glue to the LCD about as wide as a cigarette. Lay your new glass down on that glue, being careful not to trap too many bubbles. If you have a couple, no problem. You can leave them if it doesn't bother you, or you can push them to the edges. Next, align the LCD with the handy little lines that are printed on the back of the glass. Get something to hold it together, clothespins or hair clamps will do fine. After clamping, once again ensure the glass is aligned properly with the LCD. Then all you have to do is take it outside, let it cure in the sun for about 5 minutes, clean the extra glue up and reassemble the phone!!! I've got one waiting for a glass to come in so as soon as I get that I'll try to post some pics. Enjoy the savings, and the adventure!
add video replace touch screen.
VirtueToVice said:
I do not know if this has been mentioned or brought up before, but I just wanted to let the G2 crowd know that if they want to go the cheaper route and replace just the digitizer on their G2, it is possible with patience! You will be separating the glass from the LCD with a little bit of heat and a lot of caution, so as not to bust that beautiful LCD that these things are packin'. As you all may already know, the front glass is the digitizer so it'll all be replaced and your touch will work again, without busting the bank! This should only be considered if you're a very handy person with some superfine motor skills.
All you really need is a steady heat source of around 200F. I use a griddle, similar to this
http://www.walmart.com/ip/16451315?...56276670&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=34449323470&veh=sem
Most people have one of these laying around in a cabinet.
Get on eBay and find the digitizer for the phone and some LOCA UV Adhesive. 10ML is way more than enough.
Take the phone apart, then lay the LCD/Digitizer face down on that griddle and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Use a razor blade to VERY CAREFULLY and slowly peel the glass back. You should see the glass separating from the LCD. Continue this and take your time until all of the glass is removed. Then clean the LCD. It takes some work, this glue is extremely sticky and the only thing I've found to completely remove it is Clorox Surface wipes. They're the kind that come presoaked with some kind of cleaner. Even those take a little elbow grease to completely remove the glue from the LCD surface. It should be shiny. A couple specs wont matter, the LOCA has proven to be great at hiding imperfections. Next you will remove the LCD from the frame of the phone. There will be some connectors following through the bottom half of the phone to the PCB that has the charging port on it. Once the LCD is removed, add a line of LOCA glue to the LCD about as wide as a cigarette. Lay your new glass down on that glue, being careful not to trap too many bubbles. If you have a couple, no problem. You can leave them if it doesn't bother you, or you can push them to the edges. Next, align the LCD with the handy little lines that are printed on the back of the glass. Get something to hold it together, clothespins or hair clamps will do fine. After clamping, once again ensure the glass is aligned properly with the LCD. Then all you have to do is take it outside, let it cure in the sun for about 5 minutes, clean the extra glue up and reassemble the phone!!! I've got one waiting for a glass to come in so as soon as I get that I'll try to post some pics. Enjoy the savings, and the adventure!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please post updates....with pics etc.
Have a perfectly good LCD at home now with damaged digitizer and frame I'd rather use vs playing around with these crappy Ebay replacement parts I've gotten in the past month
It is not easy to replace but it is very easy to damage LCD, it's not so expensive to buy new screen with digitizer and frames (90-100$) so i prefer to buy full lcd and dont try to replace digitizer.
My display was broken so I had to buy a new display and bought it along with the side frame. It's perfect but there's one problem-- the screw holes are kinda not in perfect size so none of the 16 screws fit in tightly. They are just somehow screwed in, holding the inner back cover with the sideframe. I'm afraid that if the phone falls, the inner back cover might rip off the sideframe and display assembly and totally rip apart damaging the motherboard, etc.
Since the screws aren't holding the phone tightly in place, I wanna take some measures so as to prevent it from ripping off incase of a fall. I applied very little amount of super glue (fewikwik, popular in India) at two places. But I DO NOT want to use super glue further around the frame because it'll become impossible to remove the inner back cover in future.
My question is, is there any sort of "super glue" available that stick things (plastic here) very firmly but can be removed as well when needed? You can say I am looking for something stronger that typical fevicol but less stronger (and not permanent) than super glue (fewikwik).
you're looking for glue on XDA.
-z3r0- said:
you're looking for glue on XDA.
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Click to collapse
It's related to phone repair and I didn't wanna sign up at a new place for asking this.
With all the complaints of just glue around the edges of glass screen protectors, especially the curved edge to edge ones, has anybody though about trying to find and apply their own? I did a quick search for glue or adhesives for screen protectors, but all I could find was glue to replace actual screens, which were permanent bonding type. I'm thinking if you could just buy the adhesive yourself, apply to the whole protector, then pretty much all the pitfalls of current crop of tgsp for the op5 go away. Thoughts?
From what i understand it's a very thin layer of silicon.
Applying it in a way that keeps it invisible is the trick.
I've had similar thoughts btw
---------- Post added at 09:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:34 AM ----------
Tesa make the tapes for this btw.
https://www.tesa.com/industry/electronics/applications/screen-mounting
Trying to source the right one of those might be the best bet.
I haven't been through them all, but a transparent under 200um would be best.
tesa 61360 is 100um thick.
Tbh I wonder if a 5mm wide tape would be better than full screen. But I guess there's tapes wide enough to do all the screen
This is a really bad idea, these protectors are manufactured in a factory, if you go looking for some kind of adhesive and try apply it yourself it's just gonna look terrible, it'll probably be too thick, the screen won't be responsive enough and it'll be uneven. Forget it.
djsubterrain said:
This is a really bad idea, these protectors are manufactured in a factory, if you go looking for some kind of adhesive and try apply it yourself it's just gonna look terrible, it'll probably be too thick, the screen won't be responsive enough and it'll be uneven. Forget it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And if it doesn't work you take it of again.
Nice to see the spirit that made xda great is still alive and kicking..
Where's your spirit of adventure?
djsubterrain said:
This is a really bad idea, these protectors are manufactured in a factory, if you go looking for some kind of adhesive and try apply it yourself it's just gonna look terrible, it'll probably be too thick, the screen won't be responsive enough and it'll be uneven. Forget it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't realize it was a strip of silicon. I was thinking more along the lines of some sort of spray adhesive. Low strength, optically clear of course would be ideal. Applying a strip would indeed be a bad idea.
fards said:
From what i understand it's a very thin layer of silicon.
[/COLOR]Tesa make the tapes for this btw.
https://www.tesa.com/industry/electronics/applications/screen-mounting
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Click to collapse
Those are the very strips that come on screen protectors that people don't like though, the full face adhesive protectors are best as they don't let dust under the edges as much and don't have the rainbow effect, the protector only being adhered round the edges is the reason people get that rainbow effect.
djsubterrain said:
Those are the very strips that come on screen protectors that people don't like though, the full face adhesive protectors are best as they don't let dust under the edges as much and don't have the rainbow effect, the protector only being adhered round the edges is the reason people get that rainbow effect.
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Click to collapse
Unless you get a sheet of that tape to cover all the screen..
My initial thoughts were just a slightly wider strip than the usual. That should give a better deal than what we've had so far..
I've seen something like this for the S8. whitestonedome.com protectors that fit perfectly.
They use a uv adhesive. From what I can research, the type of glue is called LOCA - Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive and needs a UV light to set. Now, I found one type called TP2500 that is somewhat cheap. But it's supoosedly used to bond the LCD screen to the glass during repair. I have no clue about the bond strengths involved and I wouldn't want a TSP permernantly bonded.
But then, heres what I'm thinking. I've seen Chinese TSP that overhang the curve sides slightly, but they offer a sealing liquid to "patch" that. And that sort of works. But from what I see on the reviews. It fails after a while. Weeks to months later the gap reappears. Rinse and repeat. Could we use a LOCA with a sensible bond strength to patch the gap until the time we want to remove it? Pretty much a poor man's version of whitestonedome.
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Glass camera lens assemblies are glued together with a UV set adhesive. It is not a trivial task to separate these elements after bonding but it does make a bubble free bond and remains workable until hit with the UV. a search for camera lens cement should find several choices. Before high tech the lens elements were bonded with a balsam adhesive which also works.
deadsea said:
I've seen something like this for the S8. whitestonedome.com protectors that fit perfectly.
They use a uv adhesive. From what I can research, the type of glue is called LOCA - Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive and needs a UV light to set. Now, I found one type called TP2500 that is somewhat cheap. But it's supoosedly used to bond the LCD screen to the glass during repair. I have no clue about the bond strengths involved and I wouldn't want a TSP permernantly bonded.
But then, heres what I'm thinking. I've seen Chinese TSP that overhang the curve sides slightly, but they offer a sealing liquid to "patch" that. And that sort of works. But from what I see on the reviews. It fails after a while. Weeks to months later the gap reappears. Rinse and repeat. Could we use a LOCA with a sensible bond strength to patch the gap until the time we want to remove it? Pretty much a poor man's version of whitestonedome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw the loca glue, but from what I understand is that it is more of a permanent bond. I'm sure it would work well, but would probably be more trouble than it's work to remove it.
This might be worth looking into. From what I can tell, it's a a sheet of double sided optically clear adhesive. I can't find a listing for oneplus 5 and I haven't taken the time to see if any other phone models have a similar sized screen. Maybe something like iPhone 6 plus and then trim to fit?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/262545719984
stubey said:
This might be worth looking into. From what I can tell, it's a a sheet of double sided optically clear adhesive. I can't find a listing for oneplus 5 and I haven't taken the time to see if any other phone models have a similar sized screen. Maybe something like iPhone 6 plus and then trim to fit?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/262545719984
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Click to collapse
The OCA tape is supposedly the more convenient cousin of the LOCA that's also used to bond lcd to glass. I would assume the bond strengths to be similar. Just less equipment required.
stubey said:
I saw the loca glue, but from what I understand is that it is more of a permanent bond. I'm sure it would work well, but would probably be more trouble than it's work to remove it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://youtu.be/8EBOs_Fntjs
The videos available for the whitestone protector show that its possible to just peel it off. Considering that they also use a UV curing glue, I would suspect there is a low bond version LOCA. Or the lcd is just that fragile during repair that the special tools are required. More Google work might get some answers on that.
I did find the bond strength for the TP2500 though. 0.3 N per mm2. About 3kg per cm2. No clue if that is strong though since I have no frame of reference.
Moar digging.... There has to be a way to get the TSP to work on our phone...
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