Phone blacklists bluetooth device connected to a car - Samsung Galaxy S9+ Questions & Answers

I am trying to find a solution for S9+ to stop blacklisting my bluetooth receiver when I start my car. The receiver is connected to the car's power socket and when I start the car, it takes a while for the phone to (re)connect to the receiver. This is a quote from Tunai Firefly's FAQ and I think it's exactly what is happening in my case:
Different car have different power circuit design. In some cars, power will shutdown for couple seconds when starting the engine, and resumes when engine started. In this case, when power is supplied initially, Firefly will reconnect to your device and you will see the Firefly LED light stop flashing. And then the power system goes down for couple seconds, and Firefly become disconnected again. Firefly will try to reconnect with smartphone device once the power is suppled again. However, your smartphone devices treat this as bad reception, and will not release the Bluetooth connection until after 30 to 45 seconds. Any connection attempt from Firefly will be rejected by the smartphone during this period. Firefly will stop reconnection attempt after being rejected by the smartphone, and enter pairing mode. If this situation happen to occur to you, just wait for 30 to 45 seconds, unplug and plug-in Firefly USB side again, and it will reconnect to smartphone automatically. You can also request the pairing with Firefly via smartphone after 30 to 45 seconds as well.​
The car is a 09 BMW 120d Coupe, the phone is the Galaxy S9+ (latest version, unmodified) and the receiver is a Nobsound BT 4.2 receiver (also tried others).
What's the best way to fix this? If any... Even if it implies rooting the phone to stop it "blacklisting" the receiver.

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These are the faults I have had so far with handsets.
All these handsets were new, on RBA24.
1st) clicking on calls, annoying.
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[Q] Bluetooth/Car connection issue

I just bought an Atrix to replace my Galaxy S and I have properly paired and coonected it to my Alpine KCE-400BT. Calls and A2DP work fine once connected. However, each time I get in the car I must reconnect the phone to the stereo which also requires me to input the pin as well. I always leave the bluetooth running on the phone and in the past with my Galaxy S I never had this issue. The phone would reconnect each time I got in and started the car. Anyone have any similar issue. It's a real pain to have to reconnect it and input the pin each time.
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New Wifi/Bluetooth interference

Hi,
For about a year I have used my GS2 with a Plantronics Savi Go bluetooth headset - I normally leave the phone in its desk cradle and use MyPhoneExplorer to make/answer all my calls and send text messages (I work in a small office with no wired phone at my desk and I sent at least 500 texts/day to coordinate teams working in the field.)
Recently - after returning from a trip - I noticed that the phone and headset would not work together at all if the wifi on the phone was enabled - the headset would connect to the phone and the first 10 seconds or so of every call would be OK, but the level of interference (as heard on the headset) would increase and increase and the headset would inevitably disconnect after about 20 seconds.
With wifi disabled on the phone this does not occur.
The headset works fine with another phone and also connects fine to its Plantronics USB adapter. This headset is designed to remain connected to two devices at once (intended to be the USB adapter and a phone) so you can make calls from either Skype/a voip app or your phone without having to change anything.
I have dropped the phone about a hundred times so I changed the aerial/loudspeaker module (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300715915473) but the interference still occurs.
Is there any way this could be a software issue? I hate updating as I have custom density and all sorts of other settings so my phone is still on the same android 2.3.3 stock ROM that it came with - I have also removed all the Samsung customisations and KIES etc so updating is a pain.
My opinion is that there is no way this could be a software issue and that, as the antenna replacement has not solved the problem, there's probably a hardware problem and I should just toss it and get a Note or another GS2.
However, thinking about it more - the bluetooth and wifi transmitters share the same antenna? Is there any software cooperation to make sure these devices don't try and transmit at the same time or is there hardware gating? Are there filters designed to stop the bluetooth transmitter transmitting directly 'into' the wifi receiver (as they both share the same aerial which is used both for transmit/receive) and are they software or hardware?
My thoughts are definitely hardware but I would welcome the opinions of anyone that really knows how the two transmitters/receivers are meant to work together.
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Tasker bluetooth timing help

Right, can someone help me out with Tasker. Please *I need to setup some profiles. *Basically, I've got 2 phones and my car will only connect to 1 at a time. Think of this as a logical puzzle
If both phones have bluetooth on when the car starts, which ever phone connects first will connect. If bluetooth is off on one then the other will connect.
My problem. I only want phone W to connect to the cars bluetooth between 8:30 – 18:00, Monday - Friday. Phone P should be connected to the car outside of these time frames, AND if phone W is not present in the time frames above.
So, any ideas how I can do this with minimal battery drain? I could use NFC however I'd like to avoid if possible
Nobody?
Evostance said:
Right, can someone help me out with Tasker. Please *I need to setup some profiles. *Basically, I've got 2 phones and my car will only connect to 1 at a time. Think of this as a logical puzzle
If both phones have bluetooth on when the car starts, which ever phone connects first will connect. If bluetooth is off on one then the other will connect.
My problem. I only want phone W to connect to the cars bluetooth between 8:30 – 18:00, Monday - Friday. Phone P should be connected to the car outside of these time frames, AND if phone W is not present in the time frames above.
So, any ideas how I can do this with minimal battery drain? I could use NFC however I'd like to avoid if possible
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have this issue, but here are my 2 cents, hopefully they are worth at least that.
For Phone W, create a profile that turns bluetooth on during the specified hours and days of the week.
Pair Phone P with Phone W. Then create a profile on P that will try to connect the two phones. If they connect, then Phone P turns bluetooth off. This should keep your work phone connected to your car when you need it. Have another profile to turn Phone P's bluetooth on everyday at 1800. That should prevent you from having to turn it on except when you don't need Phone W during specific hours. Unfortunately, it basically means Phone P will always have bluetooth off from 830-1800 and you'll have to turn off Phone W's bluetooth before Phone P's.comes on.
Or, buy a bluetooh speaker that can handle two phones simultaneously.

[Q] Experiencing temporary loss of one of the stereo channels?

I have a developer device from the Build conference and with a week of owning it (November 2012) I had one of the stereo channels cut out on me - for two days I thought it was my headphones but I had a chance to try someone else's and they were also non functional (on the right channel.) I then assumed it was the 3.5mm socket that was defective and I prepared to return it. In the meantime, I let the phone discharge and subsequently turn off. When I recharged it next, all was well - the stereo returned. Still thinking it might have been a connectivity issue, I soldiered on. However, it has continued to happen every couple of weeks, even after the Portico update. Each time, a power cycle fixes it. So it appears to be a software issue.
For what it's worth, I am listening to audio on the native WP8 audio app (podcasts) continually during the day.
Can anyone else confirm?
I have a regularly bought simfree device, and I have experienced this once, after listening to music in my car via AUX cable directly to my sound amplifier. After a single power cycle (just turned it off, then back on) everything was back to normal.

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