Hi everyone, I came across a mod on a russian forum and decided to give it a try myself.
My unit:
Eonon GA2171S - MTCE KLD PX5 with 4GB RAM, DSP built in.
The original amplifier chip is a TDA7851A and I have successfully replaced it with a Pioneer MOSFET PA2030A
There isn't a decent datasheet of the PA2030A but from what I have read it has a higher power output of approx 35W RMS and 60W MAX at 4 ohms. The TDA7851A is 28W RMS and 48W MAX at 4 ohms.
Replacement wasn't easy!
1) Disassemble the unit to remove the main board. My unit was especially bad because they used an adhesive silicon glue on every connector which I had to cut to free the parts.
2) Identify the amp chip - it is between the rear headers
3) Remove the old amp chip - I bent the amp chip to snap off the pins so that I could de-solder it easier. I tried with solder wick, but it wasn't working well. In the end I melted each pin and removed with pliers, and then went along each hole and used a solder sucker.
4) Fit the new amplifier chip - ensure it sits in the correct position to attach to the chassis. I found this was easiest by holding the chassis in place while I made the first few solder joints on the board
5) Solder all the pins carefully - You will want to use a fair bit of heat to ensure you don't get dry joints. Visually inspect when done to make sure you don't have any shorts.
6) Reassemble the unit
7) Test!
At this stage I would say the sound quality has improved noticeably but it isn't a huge change. The highs seem a little clearer and there does seem to be a bit more punch when pushing the bass too. I'm still trying to find the ideal DSP and EQ settings. With Flat EQ it sounds terrible as always so make sure you tune it well!
I sourced the part from WWW.UTSOURCE.NET
This mod is aviable Ford px3 mtcd eonon Ga8161 7.1? I have a tda7851a chip on mb and wadzio mcu mod but my mb not have a dsp.. Thanks.. Best work
Hi! Yes if you have the same chip I did then it is a direct replacement. It isn't dependent on the DSP
Thank you very much .. Do I have to remove the mcu patch of widzio in your opinion? I've been looking around for a while now on the internet and talk about adding or changing a capacitor, I currently do not get half of the maximum volume level with mods from wadzio and viper4android
An92 said:
This mod is aviable Ford px3 mtcd eonon Ga8161 7.1? I have a tda7851a chip on mb and wadzio mcu mod but my mb not have a dsp.. Thanks.. Best work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
An92 said:
Thank you very much .. Do I have to remove the mcu patch of widzio in your opinion? I've been looking around for a while now on the internet and talk about adding or changing a capacitor, I currently do not get half of the maximum volume level with mods from wadzio and viper4android
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No you won't need to remove any mod as this just replaces the output stage. Volume probably won't improve, but have you tried the following things?
Factory settings > Voice > System (set to 20)
Factory settings > other > Amp volume (set to 0db)
Oh sorry and yes it is compatible with any unit running the TDA 7851A chip
@millab
Thanks for the information, I explained myself badly .. The volume is fine, it is set to 0 in the factory settings. First I wanted to say that already at half of the maximum power of the volume bar the audio is powerful. In the internet I read that in addition to changing it seems the amplifier chip with a pioneer must change the capacitor, but only if you use the volume as much as possible (professional audio tuning systems) in my case at 50% I already have to close my ears
I have a sound process BD375XX
Oh ok I understand. I didn't change my capacitor, the standard is 3300uf and from my reading it is a good match for this amplifier. I do not detect any distortion or lack of power at higher volumes.
What rating capacitor is recommended from your reading?
@millab
I have a 3300uf condensator on my mb KLD MTCD
Like yours .. So I know it's okay.. I have now ordered the pioneer chip, I wait for it to improve the audio quality, even if with the widzio mod it is viper4android and it has become much better .. Thanks for the advice my friend .. I'll let you know soon
millab said:
Hi everyone, I came across a mod on a russian forum and decided to give it a try myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, because if you see something on a Russian forum, you absolutely must do!!!!
The original amplifier chip is a TDA7851A and I have successfully replaced it with a Pioneer MOSFET PA2030A
There isn't a decent datasheet of the PA2030A but from what I have read it has a higher power output of approx 35W RMS and 60W MAX at 4 ohms. The TDA7851A is 28W RMS and 48W MAX at 4 ohms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So here is the problem with what you did.
The PA2030A is **NOT** 60W. Its 50W.
The reason you can't find a "decent datasheet" is because it is NOT manufactured by pioneer. It is, in fact, manufactured by STMicroelectronics. It is, in fact, a TDA7850A that has been "rebadged" -- just like they do with cars where, for example, Nissan Frontier was (for a while) being sold as "Suzuki Equator". They even go so far as to use the same "A" suffix. PA2030 = TDA7850, PA2030A = TDA7850A. This is its datasheet: https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/tda7850a.pdf
So here is the thing..... TDA7388.
42 or 45 x4. People have been replacing THOSE with either TDA7850/1 or PA2030. Reason? Give you an extra 5W. Enough to make a difference? Heck no, but more watts!!!
I'm really sorry to tell you that any difference in sound quality is purely a figment of your imagination and nothing more. You have, in fact, replaced your amplifier chip with one that is very nearly identical.
96carboard said:
Yeah, because if you see something on a Russian forum, you absolutely must do!!!!
So here is the problem with what you did.
The PA2030A is **NOT** 60W. Its 50W.
The reason you can't find a "decent datasheet" is because it is NOT manufactured by pioneer. It is, in fact, manufactured by STMicroelectronics. It is, in fact, a TDA7850A that has been "rebadged" -- just like they do with cars where, for example, Nissan Frontier was (for a while) being sold as "Suzuki Equator". They even go so far as to use the same "A" suffix. PA2030 = TDA7850, PA2030A = TDA7850A. This is its datasheet: https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/tda7850a.pdf
So here is the thing..... TDA7388.
42 or 45 x4. People have been replacing THOSE with either TDA7850/1 or PA2030. Reason? Give you an extra 5W. Enough to make a difference? Heck no, but more watts!!!
I'm really sorry to tell you that any difference in sound quality is purely a figment of your imagination and nothing more. You have, in fact, replaced your amplifier chip with one that is very nearly identical.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, quite right, has been discussed in other threads. Also what you are referring to is component 'binning' by the manufacturer. Note that the amp IC, unless obtained from Pioneer, it is likely to be a Chinese counterfeit part.
For those wanting an improvement, connect external amp(s).
For the OP, a very well detailed post, which would be very helpful to those wanting to replace a failed AMP.
@marchnz @96carboard
@millab
hi, I just replaced my Tda7851L with this so-called pionieer pa2030a, ok the sound seems slightly better, but if you're right I'll tell you something.
I always had a problem on my unit eonon px3 (KLYDE) 7.1 GA8161.
the problem is in the use of USB ports, as a memory, but above all with a USB dvr, which when I use it emits from the unit an annoying and audible noise.
after the replacement with the pa2030a this background noise with usb dvr and almost disappeared (there is but much lower), it is not my idea, he also noticed my friend. now, how do you explain ?? I'm banging for a year to remove this problem but I have not succeeded in any way, the manufacturer sent me a new MB and when I replaced the noise was always the. now it's gone ...
say that it is not original, the chip could ruin or be dangerous? can it catch fire??
---------- Post added at 21:48 ---------- Previous post was at 21:07 ----------
I have this
Tda on net
While the pioneers on the net are like that
Or
Apart this, look at the codes on the chip that I purchased (image 1) are the same as those on the chip tda (image 2) but different from all the images of the pa2030a that you find on the network (image 3) that the. Mio is a true pa2030a or tda .. If it was a copy that makes sense to put codes of a tda on a copy pioneer?
If you look at the pioneer for sale ripped off by the mb are like those sold on the network even from China for $ 3 4. It does not mean anything but I took from France for 11..that you say .. Are there any dangers of fire or damage?
One last question .. Reply @millab at the beginning I was wrong .. My is not a Tda7851a but a Tda7851L .. And anyway the tda7851l has 25 pins like the pa2030a and then I could do Plug and play while the tda7851a has 27 pins .. Did you isolate the external pins ??. You can kindly answer all my questions .. Above all the risks ??
I’ve done some research and I’ve found this comparison table from ST site, what do you think about this little guy? STPA003
Seems like pin to pin compatible
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa003.pdf
ciccimatt said:
I’ve done some research and I’ve found this comparison table from ST site, what do you think about this little guy? STPA003
Seems like pin to pin compatible
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa003.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Miss the posts outlining there is nothing to gain?
Tda7851L have 25 pin
Pa2030a have a 25pin
Tda7850a have a 27 pin
How does pa2030a be the tda7850a?
Sorry I was mistaken, the original chip was a TDA7851L with 25 pins.
An92 said:
Tda7851L have 25 pin
Pa2030a have a 25pin
Tda7850a have a 27 pin
How does pa2030a be the tda7850a?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm it does look like yours is a copy (rebadged TDA clone?) but due to different internal resistances that have been reported in TDA clones, maybe that is enough to lower the noise you used to hear? You shouldn't worry about fire, at worst it may fail prematurely in which case you know how to replace it.
The chip I purchased does look to be a genuine Pioneer chip. It is manufactured differently to the TDA chips. It has a heavier ceramic casing and has the correct codes and 'Japan' marked on the front. The sound is definitely improved, and it is not just a placebo I assure you - I'm a live audio engineer and there is definitely more power coming from this amplifier. When you are dealing with stock car stereo components, the difference of a few watts RMS and a stable power supply can make a huge difference in how your system can sound.
Should I stay with my tda7851L or do I put pioneer pa2030a?
An92 said:
Should I stay with my tda7851L or do I put pioneer pa2030a?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Missed the items suggesting there's no major benefit, use an external amp.
An92 said:
@marchnz @96carboard
@millab
hi, I just replaced my Tda7851L with this so-called pionieer pa2030a, ok the sound seems slightly better, but if you're right I'll tell you something.
I always had a problem on my unit eonon px3 (KLYDE) 7.1 GA8161.
the problem is in the use of USB ports, as a memory, but above all with a USB dvr, which when I use it emits from the unit an annoying and audible noise.
after the replacement with the pa2030a this background noise with usb dvr and almost disappeared (there is but much lower), it is not my idea, he also noticed my friend. now, how do you explain ?? I'm banging for a year to remove this problem but I have not succeeded in any way, the manufacturer sent me a new MB and when I replaced the noise was always the. now it's gone ...
say that it is not original, the chip could ruin or be dangerous? can it catch fire??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the thing... your radio isn't a big western or japanese brand. Its a nobody-ever-heard-of chinese brand. There is actually a very good chance that the chip it came with was actually counterfit or binned as "not good enough to sell".
---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:57 PM ----------
ciccimatt said:
I’ve done some research and I’ve found this comparison table from ST site, what do you think about this little guy? STPA003
Seems like pin to pin compatible
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa003.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For a custom board I've developed, I selected that stpa003 as the amplifier. Its a wonderful chip, and is stable all the way down to 6 volts. This morning it was so damned cold out that my engine would barely crank, but the sound never skipped a beat.
SO you are BOTH wrong.. The ST TDA7850A is a 27 PIN package as the Pioneer and those other variants are all 25 pin and are NOT compatible. The pioneer could very well be the TDA7850 as it IS pin compatible with the other package the OP listed. NOW lets look at the situation at hand and see what we COULD benefit from a swap of our Flexiwatt25 Amplifier IC.
ST was kind enough to provide us a database of pin capatible ICs. We are going to want to look at ONLY the 'Y' designation.
LINK- ST SITE, SEARC,H, sgaudiopow0315.pdf
NOW looking at this document provided by ST they have a few new variants that we could take advantage of. They have the lowest THD 0.15 IIR down to .007 TYP.
Also a higher output and GSM blocking internally. They are available in the 25 pin configuration and will work down to 6V (designed for automanufactures that are stopping engine cylinders for fuel mileage)
In this list here is the ICs that I would look at as the highest quality and PIN compatible.
STPA001,2,3,8 as they are all a little different. you want 25 pin VERTICAL. they have much better THD and a little boost in output. 2 Ohms capable also
sticking with the TDA line of ICs I would look at the MOSFET series and the following again with much better THD.
TDA7560, TDA7850
Hope this clears the air. DO NOT use the suffix A ICs as what I see they are all the 27 PIN Flexiwatt package
---------- Post added 7th March 2019 at 12:01 AM ---------- Previous post was 6th March 2019 at 11:58 PM ----------
the noise as you say could be GSM noise that ST targetted to reject in these later chips FYI
Related
So I've been through this entire accessories forum and I'm pretty sure this hasn't been posted yet
What about pulling out the speaker in the droid and replacing ours with that one? I hear it's quiet a bit better... Honestly I don't remember much about speakers from electrotec but it can't be all that incompatible can it?
It depends. Also, you'll need to find out how much power the droid speaker needs, it might drain the battery even faster. I tried this with 2 wires and a SE k750i speaker and it didn't work. might have another go though
yes but thats where a larger battery comes into play =P i think the main problem would be getting the extra power to it? i should have payed attention more in electrotech haha
calgore said:
yes but thats where a larger battery comes into play =P i think the main problem would be getting the extra power to it? i should have payed attention more in electrotech haha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what i meant. Regardless of battery size, you'd need to get the battery to deliver more power to use bigger speakers. dunno how the hell you'd do that
well as long as the speaker you put in has the same Voltage but Higher Ohm rating to get louder "volume". It would over drive the speaker tho, and probably kill it faster. But on the other hand, finding a 10 ohm replacement would probably sound better, but u would need to up the gain on the device.
I didnt know if u guys knew this, im 75% sure its correct. I don't believe u need to change batteries.
wattage is also a factor, It all depends on what we can find out about the speaker inside.
I thought, that a lower ohm rating would result in higher wattage and so it is louder.
If you put 4 volt to a 10 ohm speaker it would do 0,4 ampere. So you've got 1,6 watt. If you take a 1 ohm, you get 4 ampere and 16 watt.
As long as you take the "URI".
So i think, you will have to take one with lower resistance.
The resistance doesn't depend on the voltage. Because 10 ohm's are allways 10 ohm's. It's a question of the imprinted wattage.
Take a speaker with 10 ohm's and 16 watt on a circuit of 4 volt, you would hear nearly nothing.
On a circuit with 40 volt it play very loud.
If you take 400V, you would end up with a bomb.
Yes voltage will be specific to the speaker + amp setup you have. In the commercial speaker world, theres speakers that are 8ohm, but have a transformer on them to accept different voltages.. Ie. 100, 70, 25 volt systems.
I thought a smaller Ohm, Like 1 ohm, has less Resistance,(all most a short) then a 10 ohm would be more resistant.
But with meltus Modifying the amp output of a g1, i thought that u would want a speaker to sound better, not get distorted like the current one in there.
Over diving a speaker with voltage could throw the cone out of the spider,(Overextends). so yea 400v on any speaker, would outcome in projectiles.
I think ohm is not the problem, but the quality of the speaker. When you pay some more bucks for a speaker, then it hasn't more ohm, but ist better produced. Earphones are very similar to this. Buy some for 1$ and some for 50$. The difference could be as big as the difference in price. So the speakers for your car hifi.
I've looked http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC Dream SM (A04).pdf <-- there on the service guide thingy to see what its got on it about the speaker... only things i spotted was that its directly attached too the back casing... (see page 59) and some such about 36H00720-00M speaker, KDIC (page 101) dosn't really seem to say much else that i noticed =/
Hey guys, thought I'd post up the pinouts. They match the Iphone ones in case anyone is wondering/wanting to make a breakout cable so that you can use headphones and an external mic.
Going from the center outward, i.e. tip to ring1 to ring2 to sleeve:
Tip = Left Channel Output
Ring 1 = Right Channel Output
Ring 2 = Ground (Shared with Microphone)
Sleeve = Microphone
Verified working with my old Logitech PC microphone. I have not checked if there is "phantom power" on the Mic lines (for electret mics).
Thanks!
verkion
if this is the case, i wonder why square readers do not work. Maybe honeycomb?
So there are no combined mic/headphones headsets on the market that would work with transformer (skype, gtalk, etc.)?
Tried to google it with no luck
dcmtnbkr: what are square readers? I managed to get the external microphone working with no problem yesterday.
s_life: any "made for iPhone" mic/headset should work. Same pinouts as them. I just wanted to make a breakout cable for more flexibility.
verkion
pretty typical 4 pole TRRS plug.... common knowledge really.
True...except that R2 and Sleeve are often reversed. Thought I'd do others a favor in case they wanted to make a breakout cable. *shrug* you don't need to know, then good for you.
verkion
dcmtnbkr said:
if this is the case, i wonder why square readers do not work. Maybe honeycomb?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine works just fine...
Sent from my Bolt using XDA Premium App
verkion said:
True...except that R2 and Sleeve are often reversed. Thought I'd do others a favor in case they wanted to make a breakout cable. *shrug* you don't need to know, then good for you.
verkion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well the standard is r2/sleeve reversed, but ever since apple decided to swap them, they became the new standard... anyone would be crazy to release a product that didn't follow that... 99% of products are now compatible with the apple standard, if they want any sales.
i know why you posted it though.
Thanks for the info!
I'm trying with several headsets, from Nokia (WH-205)and from "for iphone"(iFrogz Luxe with mic)
the result was weird tho....
If I plug in the jack fully, 1) Nokia headset's mic don't work, but R/L output is OK
2) "For iPhone" headset's mic is working, but only give me right channel.
but if I plug in the jack only the TRR parts with out the S, 1) Nokia headset work perfectly with both R/L channel output and mic input, but 2) "For iPhone" one still only give me right channel with mic.
Any thought?
Thanks
verkion said:
Hey guys, thought I'd post up the pinouts. They match the Iphone ones in case anyone is wondering/wanting to make a breakout cable so that you can use headphones and an external mic.
Going from the center outward, i.e. tip to ring1 to ring2 to sleeve:
Tip = Left Channel Output
Ring 1 = Right Channel Output
Ring 2 = Ground (Shared with Microphone)
Sleeve = Microphone
Verified working with my old Logitech PC microphone. I have not checked if there is "phantom power" on the Mic lines (for electret mics).
Thanks!
verkion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting what hardware worked and this pinout.
However, with previous hardware, I have found even the spacing of a quad plug is important.
If you have a micrometer, could you please post some measurements?
If you have a decent macro camera, could you please post a picture?
Hi verkion, I am looking for the same thing here; to record from the internal mic and use the headphones simultaneously with my Asus Transformer. I am wanting to achieve this to turn my Transformer into a multi-track recorder, so I have been using the J4T and FourTracks apps.
Not being too handy with a soldering iron, I brought a pre-made breakout cable which states that it works with iPods (as this post indicates that they are wired the same - amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ).
However, I am having problems getting this working. I cannot verify that the cable is at fault as I don't have any other devices to test this with, so I was wondering what app you used to record audio and listen at the same time?
Strangely, J4T doesn't recognise the mic and headphone simultaneously, and only picks up the mic alone after this is inserted after it is launched. FourTracks does recognise both, but only after pulling the jack out a little so the tip doesn't contact (and this results in a far lower level signal).
Do you have any advise that you could throw my way? Am I using a cable with the non-iPod wiring, or are the apps simply not up to the task? Cheers in advance!
So long story short, when attempting to replace the caps for the radio circuit (for the 2nd time since the first time I used ones that weren't quite right) I screwed things up, the headunit still works I just have no radio audio.
Any thoughts on a fix?
I could replace the main board, but I've already done the Audio Mod and then I'd still have to swap the caps on the new one (or live with the lack of treble).
What about a USB FM tuner, maybe something that even has HD radio?
Contact the factory and buy a new radio IC ?
typos1 said:
Contact the factory and buy a new radio IC ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was plan B, tho it would have to be a whole new main board, was wondering if there was a cheaper and easier solution that might also improve radio reception, seems like maybe one of the DAB/DAB+ adapters would work but there doesn't seem to be a decent software solution for those, at least not one that would be good enough to compete with the standard radio app.
jakejm79 said:
That was plan B, tho it would have to be a whole new main board, was wondering if there was a cheaper and easier solution that might also improve radio reception, seems like maybe one of the DAB/DAB+ adapters would work but there doesn't seem to be a decent software solution for those, at least not one that would be good enough to compete with the standard radio app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why cant you remove the original tuner and solder on a new one, whats wrong with the 10 DAB solutions in th DAB thread ?
typos1 said:
Why cant you remove the original tuner and solder on a new one, whats wrong with the 10 DAB solutions in th DAB thread ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the tuner that is bad, its circuitry on the main board, long story short, I had done the radio audio frequency with caps that werent quite the right value, upon trying to redo it with the correct ones, one of the traces got damaged, so while the tuner part works the circuitry that feeds it via the radio input selection doesn't.
I looked at the DAB solutions, but we don't have DAB or DAB+ here (our digitial/HD radio is a completely different spec for which there are no USB modules). I could use a DAB/DAB+ module for just the FM, but from what I have seen none of the software parts of the solutions look very attractive compared to the stock radio app especially considering I wont have the added features of DAB/DAB+ like the artwork, song titles (the stations over here are really poor in terms of their RDS data), etc.
jakejm79 said:
It's not the tuner that is bad, its circuitry on the main board, long story short, I had done the radio audio frequency with caps that werent quite the right value, upon trying to redo it with the correct ones, one of the traces got damaged, so while the tuner part works the circuitry that feeds it via the radio input selection doesn't.
I looked at the DAB solutions, but we don't have DAB or DAB+ here (our digitial/HD radio is a completely different spec for which there are no USB modules). I could use a DAB/DAB+ module for just the FM, but from what I have seen none of the software parts of the solutions look very attractive compared to the stock radio app especially considering I wont have the added features of DAB/DAB+ like the artwork, song titles (the stations over here are really poor in terms of their RDS data), etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see, what part of the world are you in ?
The app could eaily be altered, but you cant just tune into the FM signal, it only works if the DAB signal drops out.
Get a new motherboard then, I dont think theyre expensive.
typos1 said:
I see, what part of the world are you in ?
The app could eaily be altered, but you cant just tune into the FM signal, it only works if the DAB signal drops out.
Get a new motherboard then, I dont think theyre expensive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
US, in that case it seems like a DAB solution wouldn't work for my need, if it only switches to FM has a fall back and needs a DAB signal initially.
I ordered one, but I believe it's defective so I am now waiting to hear back from them, would have loved a standalone option that would have improved on the appalling reception the standard tuner gets.
jakejm79 said:
US, in that case it seems like a DAB solution wouldn't work for my need, if it only switches to FM has a fall back and needs a DAB signal initially.
I ordered one, but I believe it's defective so I am now waiting to hear back from them, would have loved a standalone option that would have improved on the appalling reception the standard tuner gets.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No DAB in US, no HD radio solution by any MTCB manufacturers ? No USB HD radio solution ?
Theres something wrong if your tuner gets bad reception, do you have an OEM antenna booster in your car ?
typos1 said:
No DAB in US, no HD radio solution by any MTCB manufacturers ? No USB HD radio solution ?
Theres something wrong if your tuner gets bad reception, do you have an OEM antenna booster in your car ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah it sucks, I would have even settled for a satellite radio option, not that I can find a USB solution for US HD radio spec, I think its a really limited market, plus the phone carriers (main android market) aren't particularly found of FM/HD radio being available on android (or other) devices.
No the car is old (1999) so just the standard antenna, on the previous board it worked (wasn't has good as OEM radio, but acceptable, I tried some of the aftermarket boosters and they made things worse). With the new main board all I get is static and it wont auto tune to even the most local stations.
jakejm79 said:
Yeah it sucks, I would have even settled for a satellite radio option, not that I can find a USB solution for US HD radio spec, I think its a really limited market, plus the phone carriers (main android market) aren't particularly found of FM/HD radio being available on android (or other) devices.
No the car is old (1999) so just the standard antenna, on the previous board it worked (wasn't has good as OEM radio, but acceptable, I tried some of the aftermarket boosters and they made things worse). With the new main board all I get is static and it wont auto tune to even the most local stations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The age of your car isnt that relevant - have you actually checked the base of your antenna for a power lead ?
Can you post links to the "boosters" youve tried or similar ?
typos1 said:
The age of your car isnt that relevant - have you actually checked the base of your antenna for a power lead ?
Can you post links to the "boosters" youve tried or similar ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The antenna is a standard antenna, I've had numerous other aftermarket radios with no issues before including my Ouku unit and my previous JY unit worked it just wasn't as good as OEM.
I used one off ebay and then another direct from Joying.
jakejm79 said:
The antenna is a standard antenna, I've had numerous other aftermarket radios with no issues before including my Ouku unit and my previous JY unit worked it just wasn't as good as OEM.
I used one off ebay and then another direct from Joying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you actually checked the base for a power lead ? What type of booster did you try ?
typos1 said:
Have you actually checked the base for a power lead ? What type of booster did you try ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think we are getting off topic here, I'm not looking for a way to improve radio reception, the unit wasn't great (compared to the OEM radio) but it was acceptable. Just looking for another option for FM radio reception, seems like there isn't one if you aren't in a DAB/DAB+ market area.
jakejm79 said:
I think we are getting off topic here, I'm not looking for a way to improve radio reception, the unit wasn't great (compared to the OEM radio) but it was acceptable. Just looking for another option for FM radio reception, seems like there isn't one if you aren't in a DAB/DAB+ market area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are several solutions to having a poor FM reception with these units and many people buy boosters that are not actually boosters, I was just simply asking a few questions to see if any of the solutions would help you, not interested ? Then I ll shut up.
jakejm79 said:
So long story short, when attempting to replace the caps for the radio circuit (for the 2nd time since the first time I used ones that weren't quite right) I screwed things up, the headunit still works I just have no radio audio.
Any thoughts on a fix?
I could replace the main board, but I've already done the Audio Mod and then I'd still have to swap the caps on the new one (or live with the lack of treble).
What about a USB FM tuner, maybe something that even has HD radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If installing an external HD Radio add-on is something you have interest in, consider checking out the Directed Electronics HD Car Connect Radio DMHD10001. These add on units can be had for $30 US or less on ebay and connect to your head unit via the AUX in RCA audio connections or via FM modulation. That said, I recommend using the RCA connections to anyone, as the FM modulation will usually have lessor overall audio quality. Please note that these specific Directed Electronics HD Radio Units need to have a ground jumper wire soldered from one or both of the tops of the gold RCA jacks to the black DC Ground in order to fix the over-modulation (distortion) issue. To do this jumper cleanly, remove the case cover and solder the jumper to the 90 degree ground pin at the plug connector. I also recommend drilling some vent holes in the upper case cover to help cool the unit as it does heat up.
Please note that these HD Radio units are only for use in the US (as far as I know), and are best used in areas of the Country that have more than a few HD channels available like here in So Cal. They do work with non HD AM/FM channels too. Some of the pluses are the additionally available music and news content in HD with no monthly fees, somewhat higher sound quality, as well as the overall better sound quality when compared to the built in FM tuners in the current Chinese android head units.
Attached is a pic of the grounding needed to fix the factory over-modulation flaw when using the RCA audio connections.
Moreover, you should be able to find an external satellite radio add-on unit that ties in via the RCA audio in connections if no usb version is available.
Hope this helps...
Your mileage may vary.
Best to all,
R
rhacy said:
If installing an external HD Radio add-on is something you have interest in, consider checking out the Directed Electronics HD Car Connect Radio DMHD10001. These add on units can be had for $30 US or less on ebay and connect to your head unit via the AUX in RCA audio connections or via FM modulation. That said, I recommend using the RCA connections to anyone, as the FM modulation will usually have lessor overall audio quality. Please note that these specific Directed Electronics HD Radio Units need to have a ground jumper wire soldered from one or both of the tops of the gold RCA jacks to the black DC Ground in order to fix the over-modulation (distortion) issue. To do this jumper cleanly, remove the case cover and solder the jumper to the 90 degree ground pin at the plug connector. I also recommend drilling some vent holes in the upper case cover to help cool the unit as it does heat up.
Please note that these HD Radio units are only for use in the US (as far as I know), and are best used in areas of the Country that have more than a few HD channels available like here in So Cal. They do work with non HD AM/FM channels too. Some of the pluses are the additionally available music and news content in HD with no monthly fees, somewhat higher sound quality, as well as the overall better sound quality when compared to the built in FM tuners in the current Chinese android head units.
Attached is a pic of the grounding needed to fix the factory over-modulation flaw when using the RCA audio connections.
Moreover, you should be able to find an external satellite radio add-on unit that ties in via the RCA audio in connections if no usb version is available.
Hope this helps...
Your mileage may vary.
Best to all,
R
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I was thinking about something like that (obviously via aux in and not FM modulation, since my FM doesn't work). What I would love would be something like this that then had an Android app that could be used to remotely control the unit.
I had an HD radio add on box for a Clarion NX501 years ago, I don't live in a part of the country that has a ton of HD stations and depending on where I drive I don't always have the best coverage, but it is a possibility.
typos1 said:
There are several solutions to having a poor FM reception with these units and many people buy boosters that are not actually boosters, I was just simply asking a few questions to see if any of the solutions would help you, not interested ? Then I ll shut up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate the input, but I think there is some confusion over my needs.
I need an external FM tuner (i.e. something USB or the like with an android software solution for tuning). I have two motherboards, one has damaged traces for the radio circuitry so there is no radio audio (BT, streaming apps, etc are fine) the other that was bought has a replacement seems to have a defective tuner or something, I get nothing but static. This isn't an issue with the antenna or anything since prior to the damage on the original motherboard I had acceptable reception.
So to recap, I don't need to improve reception (tho if the replacement tuner offered better SQ or reception that wouldn't be a bad thing). I just need to find a way of getting an FM signal to the unit via USB or Aux in. Something like Rhacy would be good, but I was hoping for something a little more integrated and controllable through an android interface.
jakejm79 said:
I appreciate the input, but I think there is some confusion over my needs.
I need an external FM tuner (i.e. something USB or the like with an android software solution for tuning). I have two motherboards, one has damaged traces for the radio circuitry so there is no radio audio (BT, streaming apps, etc are fine) the other that was bought has a replacement seems to have a defective tuner or something, I get nothing but static. This isn't an issue with the antenna or anything since prior to the damage on the original motherboard I had acceptable reception.
So to recap, I don't need to improve reception (tho if the replacement tuner offered better SQ or reception that wouldn't be a bad thing). I just need to find a way of getting an FM signal to the unit via USB or Aux in. Something like Rhacy would be good, but I was hoping for something a little more integrated and controllable through an android interface.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I know what you need, we touched on a new motherboard to fix your problem, I was advising for when you fit your new motherbaord, basically, the FM reception on these units is pretty good, once you have done a few basic things.
But I didnt realise you actually had the motherboard already and your problem is static.
In that case its HIGHLY likely that you simply need to flash the MCU to solve your problem - what device do you have and what MCU version ?
I recently had a similar problem (no radio, just static) and all that was needed was an MCU update, its very common after updating.
It could also be the wrong tuner type is set in factory settings, have you tried playing around with them ?
typos1 said:
Yes, I know what you need, we touched on a new motherboard to fix your problem, I was advising for when you fit your new motherbaord, basically, the FM reception on these units is pretty good, once you have done a few basic things.
But I didnt realise you actually had the motherboard already and your problem is static.
In that case its HIGHLY likely that you simply need to flash the MCU to solve your problem - what device do you have and what MCU version ?
I recently had a similar problem (no radio, just static) and all that was needed was an MCU update, its very common after updating.
It could also be the wrong tuner type is set in factory settings, have you tried playing around with them ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the MCU mentioning, you could be onto something, the new mobo didn't behave exactly like my old one, I had issues trying to get my phone to pair with BT (though that could be due to new MAC address but same BT device name, I didn't work too hard on it since the radio issue was more pressing). But also the buttons on the front acted a little weird, like normally when I have one of the MTC apps open (radio, their music player, etc) if I hit the home button on the front of the unit it would keep that app playing but return me to the home screen, with the new mobo it closes the app like I pressed the back button, have to press the soft home button in the top left of the screen to keep it playing music.
I have the old mobo back in now, I will try and see what the MCU version is on that and then install the new mobo and see if its the same or different and try upgrading it.
I did try all the different options for the radio device under the factory settings menu, but all but one (the original one selected) resulted in just silence rather than static.
jakejm79 said:
Thank you for the MCU mentioning, you could be onto something, the new mobo didn't behave exactly like my old one, I had issues trying to get my phone to pair with BT (though that could be due to new MAC address but same BT device name, I didn't work too hard on it since the radio issue was more pressing). But also the buttons on the front acted a little weird, like normally when I have one of the MTC apps open (radio, their music player, etc) if I hit the home button on the front of the unit it would keep that app playing but return me to the home screen, with the new mobo it closes the app like I pressed the back button, have to press the soft home button in the top left of the screen to keep it playing music.
I have the old mobo back in now, I will try and see what the MCU version is on that and then install the new mobo and see if its the same or different and try upgrading it.
I did try all the different options for the radio device under the factory settings menu, but all but one (the original one selected) resulted in just silence rather than static.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will probably have to try different BT devices in factory settings as well. What MCU version is your new mobo ?
probably too early to ask but does anybody know kind of dongle you need to access audio through headphones since oneplus is being dumb and doing away with the headphone jack? on a T version no less. i don't know if i will be buying this but asking anyways as i am sure there might be day i agonize over this.
no headphone jack 3.5, no deal !!
period, no need to debate it !!
The type c to 3.5mm dongle will be provided in the box and launch offers may also include the new type c earphones yet to be announced :good:
x111 said:
no headphone jack 3.5, no deal !!
period, no need to debate it !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you never plan on buying a phone again? They all will remove the jack. Even Samsung. Technology is advancing.
GloomySVT said:
So you never plan on buying a phone again? They all will remove the jack. Even Samsung. Technology is advancing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
removing normal audio connector is NOT an advance technology.
I'm pretty sure some companies will continue supply demand on keeping useful features.
Also, I regret that I got oneplus6 instead of note9.
in the end oneplus is a trash company with trash product.
cannot wait sams galaxy s10plus.
will see if sams will go retarded too.
another point, I'm paying high dollar and expect to get every possible feature in my phone !!
To get back on topic, does anyone know if the dongle is digital or analog?
Correction: better wording is active or passive.
I would say passive, but couldn't find the info
And there are type C black earphones with mic included too
pkadavid said:
To get back on topic, does anyone know if the dongle is digital or analog?
Correction: better wording is active or passive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Digital with a DAC built into the cable/connector.
FWIW,HTC's USonic USB-C earbuds work just fine with the OP6T:
https://www.htc.com/us/accessories-b/#!pid=htc-u12-plus&acc=htc-adaptive-earphones-type-c-htc-u11
They're available at Amazon/eBay,don't pay full retail if you're interested,just an inexpensive alternative to OP's buds.
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Usonic-USB-Type-Headset/dp/B079NQLR9S
They're very basic,no in-line volume control,& none of the fine-tuning capabilities as when used w/an HTC phone,but,they get the job done.
To answer your question;
Analog (one without a built in DAC, aftermarket ones, you know, the adapters that don't work on Pixel's, HTC, Razer, Essential, Samsung, LG, ZTE) works fine, but you might see a loss in audio, maybe by like 10% (hard to hear, but I can kinda tell the difference between this aftermarket adapter and the DAC one.)
Digital (one with built in DAC) obviously works fine with the phone, and gives you the button options on the headphones, unlike the analog one. Might drain the battery faster though, because the DAC one did get a little warm.
Motorola and OnePlus are the only phones in my testing that actually work, regardless if it's an adapter without a DAC or not, which I think it pretty cool (but I mean you can go to Apple and buy a USB-C to 3.5mm [which probably has a built in DAC] for $9 USD plus tax.)
I have a eunavi PX5 4G/32G with an inbuilt VW Quadlock. The unit has following sound related issues (when in a Skoda Superb 2011);
- when no media is being played, significant background noise can be heard (white noise + clicks, etc). in particular, when downloading over wifi, the noise varies as the load on the CPU varies.
- visible engine noise in the rearview camera
- high level of background noise can be heard when media played from the USB, microsd and less noticeable with the radio.
when on the desk power supply,
- the is persistent low level white noise, but without the clicks, etc and no downloading induced noise.
- the low level white noise is persistent across radio, media, etc.
decided to bite the bullet, and open the unit up, hoping to install the DSP mod.
- Notably the amp chip is located next the power supply,
- the audio chip is on the rear side of the board from the powersupply / amp
- the clock does not have shielding around it, allow the board clearly was designed with that intention
can anyone identify the actual manufacturer of this board and help with the DSP mod
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.34.77eb1e36Nr5kPU
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000274050022.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.24.6030147dlf1vAh
I have updated the
- MCU to MTCE_HA_v3.40_1
- system to px5-userdebug 8.0.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct.20190428.180147 test-keys
update went smoothly.
It would seem that the sound problems are a grounding and/or VW noise issue powered via the quadlock connector
(i note it is not possible to power via the quadlock connector on the bench - presumably because no canbus connected)
The big question is, can i install a DSP and will it reduce the white noise problem.
I have the same media player with DSP, and have the same problems with background noise. Contacted the seller, and he sent me a new main board - the problem still exist, after replacing the board. The player is mounted in Honda Accord. Tried changing the capacitors - same **** different day ...
Will be following the tread if any solution comes up.
As7i said:
I have the same media player with DSP, and have the same problems with background noise. Contacted the seller, and he sent me a new main board - the problem still exist, after replacing the board. The player is mounted in Honda Accord. Tried changing the capacitors - same **** different day ...
Will be following the tread if any solution comes up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you make a photo of the board and particularly identify where the DSP is.
thks
gwaitsi said:
can you make a photo of the board and particularly identify where the DSP is.
thks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea where the DSP is ... For me it is just a board with some elements and chips on it, no idea what is what. But there are the pictures of the board, if they could be in any help for you.
<<<https://imgur.com/a/l7XVbuz>>>
Copy and paste the link only without "<<<>>>" ... had to cheat the forum since new users are not allowed to attach or send links...
As7i said:
No idea where the DSP is ... For me it is just a board with some elements and chips on it, no idea what is what. But there are the pictures of the board, if they could be in any help for you.
<<<https://imgur.com/a/l7XVbuz>>>
Copy and paste the link only without "<<<>>>" ... had to cheat the forum since new users are not allowed to attach or send links...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the same board. It is almost the same, but obviously a different revision. Turn the rear view so your thumb is on top. bottom left corner. You are missing the audio ZL3560 chip and the one below it. slightly to the right of the ZL3560 you have a square chip but i cant see the number on it with the quality of your pic.
Do you here varying background noise when downloads are occurring over wifi.
i uploaded your pics for the benefit of others
gwaitsi said:
It's not the same board. It is almost the same, but obviously a different revision. Turn the rear view so your thumb is on top. bottom left corner. You are missing the audio ZL3560 chip and the one below it. slightly to the right of the ZL3560 you have a square chip but i cant see the number on it with the quality of your pic.
Do you here varying background noise when downloads are occurring over wifi.
i uploaded your pics for the benefit of others
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
As7i said:
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. From the menu, i also get basic touch screen noise. Downloading just makes it more prominent. I am use the ISO connector for Skoda.
I would say you probably have a ground problem if you are engine noise. You want to make sure, if using an ext amp, the two units are grounded together at the same point.
I will take a look at the caps as well.
lennylen said:
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a factory fitted blaupunkt amp and connection via the ISO connector. The gain is currently set to -12dB and the amp mode is set to auto detect.
I might take the oscilloscope out when it warms up and have a look,.
As7i said:
I have not used the WiFi yet. I had a varying background noise while I was browsing the menu, and every touch of the screen was reflected in the speakers. I gave the media to a repair shop and they changed all the capacitors. Now the noise from browsing the menu is gone, but still there is hell of a "turbo" noise. I can clearly hear my rpm in the speakers. And the problem is gone with other players. Tested the same player to a different car - same "turbo" noise. Tried a "hi-low" filter/converter - the idea was not to use the RCA out ... and the problem became even bigger.
Now the car is in a car audio service, the boys will try to fix the noise, or the medial will be replaced. If it comes to replacing the media unit, since the EUNAVI shop won't assist anymore, claiming that there is no way their media to have such a problem ... the defective unit will gladly be run over by my car ... several times - just to be sure it is dead ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lennylen said:
I've tried 3 different boards with and without DSP and the solution was to turn down the gain on the amplifier. I'm using RCA.
However, I noticed a significant improvement when I plugged the microphone into the back of the unit. Can you test this out and let me know? Both microphones broke on this unit, I'm not sure why, but the whining is gone until I turn the gain on my amp up. It sounds pretty good now, especially after tuning with the dsp board. I'll still be returning it though to try a Dasiata board.
Regarding USB audio: my eunavi board has terrible white noise pops clicks. My newest unit(CHS) has no issues over USB audio. It's flawless. Im thinking about using a HDMI to RCA converter for digital audio and hooking it up to a helix for auto digital /analog switching.
Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gwaitsi said:
I have a factory fitted blaupunkt amp and connection via the ISO connector. The gain is currently set to -12dB and the amp mode is set to auto detect.
I might take the oscilloscope out when it warms up and have a look,.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been following noise issue on PX5 for a while (they all have them) but no one on this forum found the right fix (better ground, change caps, install DSP,ground heatsink of PX5, solder RCA directly nothing really fix it)
Did you solve the problem?
ELCouz said:
I've been following noise issue on PX5 for a while (they all have them) but no one on this forum found the right fix (better ground, change caps, install DSP,ground heatsink of PX5, solder RCA directly nothing really fix it)
Did you solve the problem?
i didn't yet, but can say many of the problems are not there when the unit is on the test bench using PSU rather than in the car. I have a filter and will put that in the car when i have chance. There is definitely a difference in the unit power design. If i try to power via the quadlock connector on the work bench, it doesn't power up. i have to use the non-quad connector. so would be interesting to know if the same unit is working better in a car without the quadlock connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could it be that the hardware is fundamentally flawed.
marchnz said:
Could it be that the hardware is fundamentally flawed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's most likely a combination of cheap components e.g. capacitors, grounding issues and RF isolation/shielding and cheap design shortcuts. it is clear, if you disassemble the unit and move the screen away from the CPU & baseboard, there is less interference from the touch screen. Also supporting that, my unit has an onboard VW Quadlock so it direct plug/play. There is clearly engine noise which doesn't appear with the original blaupunkt unit. But you pay one tenth of the price...so what can you expect. the question is, if you can do enough e.g. add noise filters in line for the quadlock to reduce the problems to an acceptable level.
The bigger issue in my mind is the inbuilt malware. My unit tries to contact a tencent IP address, and also probes the ports on my firewall if i connect the wifi to my guest network ;-)
So finally, I bit the bullet and started to work on solving the issues.
First step is to reduce the engine noise on my 2011 Superb 3T5 Diesel,
which is also particularly amplifier when using USB DAB.
Two possible options
1) so-called camera Rectifier is a 1000uF/16v cap on the input side with a IN4001 rectifier diode and a small cap (probably 10uF not sure) on the output.
2) so-called car power Filter is an inductor with a 2200uF/25V cap on the output side of the inductor.
You can see on the 2nd photo there is an inductor and 4700uF capacitor. I didn't trace the circuit yet,
but I guess this is on the power input from the RCA connector strip and not the Quadlock/VW ISO connector.
I hooked up a scope to the Quadlock connector power and there was noise and a sine wave on it. Although the Quadlock diagram for the Superb shows
12 – Voltage supply, negative, terminal 31
15 – Voltage supply, positive, terminal 30
16 – Anti-theft coding control signal, SAFE, positive
I connected one box of 1) on pin 15 and one box of 1) on pin 16.
There is about a 1v drop on the power to the unit i.e. 14.1v to 13.1-2v but the solution solved the engine noise and significantly reduced the noise of the DAB.
There is still some screen noise, but I noise there is provision for RFI shields around the various components (which have not been installed). I will try to replace the PCB caps and add some shielding to see if i can cut the screen noise out.
gwaitsi said:
So finally, I bit the bullet and started to work on solving the issues.
First step is to reduce the engine noise on my 2011 Superb 3T5 Diesel,
which is also particularly amplifier when using USB DAB.
Two possible options
1) so-called camera Rectifier is a 1000uF/16v cap on the input side with a IN4001 rectifier diode and a small cap (probably 10uF not sure) on the output.
2) so-called car power Filter is an inductor with a 2200uF/25V cap on the output side of the inductor.
You can see on the 2nd photo there is an inductor and 4700uF capacitor. I didn't trace the circuit yet,
but I guess this is on the power input from the RCA connector strip and not the Quadlock/VW ISO connector.
I hooked up a scope to the Quadlock connector power and there was noise and a sine wave on it. Although the Quadlock diagram for the Superb shows
12 – Voltage supply, negative, terminal 31
15 – Voltage supply, positive, terminal 30
16 – Anti-theft coding control signal, SAFE, positive
I connected one box of 1) on pin 15 and one box of 1) on pin 16.
There is about a 1v drop on the power to the unit i.e. 14.1v to 13.1-2v but the solution solved the engine noise and significantly reduced the noise of the DAB.
There is still some screen noise, but I noise there is provision for RFI shields around the various components (which have not been installed). I will try to replace the PCB caps and add some shielding to see if i can cut the screen noise out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are the frequency(s)/period of the noise?
The inductor, what is the physical size?
Have you considered using a shottkey diode instead of the 1n4001?
marchnz said:
What are the frequency(s)/period of the noise? i didn't record it, i saw enough to convince i needed a filter.
The inductor, what is the physical size? I never used option 2. because option 1 worked.
Have you considered using a shottkey diode instead of the 1n4001? i wouldn't over analyse. In summary, this could have been fixed by adding capacitors to the motherboard for the CAN connector power rails. Obviously they tried to save a few cents on manufacturing costs, or was simply an oversight in the initial design
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so youre unsure not sure how to design filters, select the correct components, including filtering and reducing voltage drops.
Not over analyzing, just knowing what the right path is to reducing switching noise.
marchnz said:
OK, so youre unsure not sure how to design filters, select the correct components, including filtering and reducing voltage drops.
Not over analyzing, just knowing what the right path is to reducing switching noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I provided two links;
1) Half Wave Rectifier
2) Low Pass Filter
of course, you can do this with the raw components for a few cents.
But the two aliexpress links provide them in plastic packaging, which makes them convenient for installing in the car. The half-wave rectifier is a smaller package, so I installed that first. It solved the problem in a much smaller form (given I put in two - without having checked the onboard Quadlock connectors). On the design of my motherboard, it is evident there are no capacitors in the power rails connected to the Quadlock connector (which is the 68pin dual-in-line connector)
While the low pass filter will have less voltage reduction, in this case it makes no difference to the head unit as it is simply reducing the noisy 14v to a clean 13v which is still with range, so frankly, I consider that part of the problem solved.