So I've been through this entire accessories forum and I'm pretty sure this hasn't been posted yet
What about pulling out the speaker in the droid and replacing ours with that one? I hear it's quiet a bit better... Honestly I don't remember much about speakers from electrotec but it can't be all that incompatible can it?
It depends. Also, you'll need to find out how much power the droid speaker needs, it might drain the battery even faster. I tried this with 2 wires and a SE k750i speaker and it didn't work. might have another go though
yes but thats where a larger battery comes into play =P i think the main problem would be getting the extra power to it? i should have payed attention more in electrotech haha
calgore said:
yes but thats where a larger battery comes into play =P i think the main problem would be getting the extra power to it? i should have payed attention more in electrotech haha
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That's what i meant. Regardless of battery size, you'd need to get the battery to deliver more power to use bigger speakers. dunno how the hell you'd do that
well as long as the speaker you put in has the same Voltage but Higher Ohm rating to get louder "volume". It would over drive the speaker tho, and probably kill it faster. But on the other hand, finding a 10 ohm replacement would probably sound better, but u would need to up the gain on the device.
I didnt know if u guys knew this, im 75% sure its correct. I don't believe u need to change batteries.
wattage is also a factor, It all depends on what we can find out about the speaker inside.
I thought, that a lower ohm rating would result in higher wattage and so it is louder.
If you put 4 volt to a 10 ohm speaker it would do 0,4 ampere. So you've got 1,6 watt. If you take a 1 ohm, you get 4 ampere and 16 watt.
As long as you take the "URI".
So i think, you will have to take one with lower resistance.
The resistance doesn't depend on the voltage. Because 10 ohm's are allways 10 ohm's. It's a question of the imprinted wattage.
Take a speaker with 10 ohm's and 16 watt on a circuit of 4 volt, you would hear nearly nothing.
On a circuit with 40 volt it play very loud.
If you take 400V, you would end up with a bomb.
Yes voltage will be specific to the speaker + amp setup you have. In the commercial speaker world, theres speakers that are 8ohm, but have a transformer on them to accept different voltages.. Ie. 100, 70, 25 volt systems.
I thought a smaller Ohm, Like 1 ohm, has less Resistance,(all most a short) then a 10 ohm would be more resistant.
But with meltus Modifying the amp output of a g1, i thought that u would want a speaker to sound better, not get distorted like the current one in there.
Over diving a speaker with voltage could throw the cone out of the spider,(Overextends). so yea 400v on any speaker, would outcome in projectiles.
I think ohm is not the problem, but the quality of the speaker. When you pay some more bucks for a speaker, then it hasn't more ohm, but ist better produced. Earphones are very similar to this. Buy some for 1$ and some for 50$. The difference could be as big as the difference in price. So the speakers for your car hifi.
I've looked http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC Dream SM (A04).pdf <-- there on the service guide thingy to see what its got on it about the speaker... only things i spotted was that its directly attached too the back casing... (see page 59) and some such about 36H00720-00M speaker, KDIC (page 101) dosn't really seem to say much else that i noticed =/
Related
as per title..anyone? mean to say PORTABLE.
I've stopped using gs2 to listen to music long time as the volume is too low and also finding harder to drive my headphones to full. Just only yesterday, my iriver broke and in the market for new player. Thinking whether should be better off with just getting Fiio E6.
yes, we do lack line out through usb (very hopeful that it'll be put on ICS) and the only way to connect is through headphone out which is already amplified.
impressions pls. Thanks.
starfarer said:
as per title..anyone? mean to say PORTABLE.
I've stopped using gs2 to listen to music long time as the volume is too low and also finding harder to drive my headphones to full. Just only yesterday, my iriver broke and in the market for new player. Thinking whether should be better off with just getting Fiio E6.
yes, we do lack line out through usb (very hopeful that it'll be put on ICS) and the only way to connect is through headphone out which is already amplified.
impressions pls. Thanks.
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Click to collapse
volume is too low???? either your ears or s2 is done!!!!
think it's both. But yes normally I listen to a high level of volume and gs2 is the one of the lowest sounding device (ie through headphone out) i've ever owned. Not made for each other and made worst by owning couple of higher impedance headphones.
i have been using a FiiO E5 from when i had a n900, i think the volume is too low on the s2 aswell, i think you can get them for less than 20quid now, deffo worth it imo
thanks for that. I'm almost set my heart to buy one of these for later to be paired with sansa clip+ or similar. Probably will be cheaper and better than cowon's or sony x's. It's just curious what will be the effect on sound which is already amplified as HO in gs2.
Try Voodoo Louder from the Market for a 6dB increase, or the app in my sig for more than that. I use Brainwavz M3's with this app & find I only need to have volume at around 30% even in noisy environments (public transport, walking around town).
I've not found the S2 volume to be too bad, but I've used both one of the small "pop up" speakers, as well as a full blown amp, and a car headphone in socket - all absolutely fine.
you've tried Equalizer?, is in the market, is very good. regarding your original question, i use mine with logitech LB21, and it's sounds amazing.
Regards.
with Poweramp I think the sound is louder than the music original application, you can find it on the market
yes i use the E6 - it works fine and the quality is good.
Do not use any of the EQ's etc as suggested here to get it louder. The samsung internal amp can only go so loud without distorting - all u are doing with software boosts is dynamically effecting the music you are listening to. Somewhat like the radio does. It makes all of the instruments in the track as loud as each other by compressing the loudest sounds and lifting the volume of the lower ones. If you really want to get a louder performance from your phone use different headphones - that run on less ohms or use an external portable amp like any of Eii's series.
that's a very good explanation. I've also tried with low impedance headphones but still lacks the "punch". My bad as in OP I used the wrong word "loud" instead of "punch".
so what's the effect of E6 on already amplified Headphone out? just to amplify few dbs on all spectrums??
Rockbox on [email protected] and [email protected] with Voodoo [email protected] did improve the overall sound. Also maybe in that time, my ears started to adjust with the sound coming off GS2. Found similar thread here where ppl's had good experience with amplifer. Ordered Fiio E11 and will post impressions arrive.
Hello.
I wanna to ask you for something - stock earphones from L9 has got 18 OHm impedance, but if I plug in earphones with 16 OHm impedance will broke my phone/DAC/jack or something other?
I wanna to buy Panasonic HJE120. Will be ok, or not?
Thanks for reply!
It's alright
I hate that not enough people use RMAA or just test these things (unless they're high-end devices). My NuForce NE-700Ms have 16ohms impedance, and they sound fabulous. The source impedance for the L9 has not yet been tested, but they at least seem to be able to drive my IEMs with little/no fuss.
On that note, I'll probably switch to an Optimus G. Source impedance of 1.89ohms places it just above the iPhone 4S (first [tested] smartphone to do that, as far as I know), and overall audio output is impressively low on distortion.
So, I haven't got any problem with 16OHm earphones, yeah?
mosak said:
So, I haven't got any problem with 16OHm earphones, yeah?
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Too much of worries with so much of details, may leads to heart problems after few years. I would have just plug in and use it without asking anyone. At least I am sure the headphone does not explode in my years. lolz
Hi.
2 OHM's difference can't broke your phone but this headphones will be little bit louder than stock.
http://www.amazon.de/dp/B007F906Q2/...and=476253706331216390&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=
i use this ones, hope that helps. stock jb rooted...,poweramp profile for headset, tasker turns headphone to max vol because controller at the cable.
beautifuel musik, heasdset!!! in ear, tel extrem good, test in wind and little storm...
If the music stutters in Poweramp when the mobile is in lock state, increase audio buffer one notch. Headset button controller app is also fine for volume setting, however, button long press is reserved by JB in contrary to ICS.
On my various Nokia phones, the volume limiter annihilated any volume differences between 16 and 32 ohm headsets to keep the phone and mainly you healthy. ****ing EU law.
every galaxy s model is always an excellent phone, but every year i have the same complaint with the headphone loudness. The headphones that come with it are great and i know they could handle more power. Anyone tried any non root way to increase the sound?
you need it louder? I have mine down one to two clicks from the bottom and it's almost too loud for me sometimes. I am around loud cars and trucks all day (I own both) but I guess my hearing is better than I thought lol.
unless you want a stronger sound and more power to the headphones for a cleaner richer sound, you'll need an external dac for that. I've never seen a phone capable of coming close to an external DAC (just look at their size, they wouldn't fit in a phone and be realistic.)
nosympathy said:
you need it louder? I have mine down one to two clicks from the bottom and it's almost too loud for me sometimes. I am around loud cars and trucks all day (I own both) but I guess my hearing is better than I thought lol.
unless you want a stronger sound and more power to the headphones for a cleaner richer sound, you'll need an external dac for that. I've never seen a phone capable of coming close to an external DAC (just look at their size, they wouldn't fit in a phone and be realistic.)
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it sounds good with my jl w7's , probably why i cant hear it so well haha, ive used apps before like viper Audio but im no longer a fan of rooting, just looking for an app that others are using
Hey guys! I'm looking to buy a pair of AKG K7XX and I'm wondering if the phone could drive them. I know it's best with an Amp, buy would the usb-c be able to provide enough power? The headphone's impedance is 62 Ohms
I highly recommend a good amp/dac with 7xx.. Max 2 might be able to drive 7xx in highest volume but not with full potential.. The highest impedance cans I have atm is the 612pro, and Max 2 don't have enough power to drive them..
appsmarsterx said:
I highly recommend a good amp/dac with 7xx.. Max 2 might be able to drive 7xx in highest volume but not with full potential.. The highest impedance cans I have atm is the 612pro, and Max 2 don't have enough power to drive them..
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Thanks for the response! I know they should be driven with an amp/dac but if they still sound at least decent, thanks quite ok . And i saw that your headphones are double the impedance, I was hoping the USB-C could provide decent power
KuranKaname said:
Thanks for the response! I know they should be driven with an amp/dac but if they still sound at least decent, thanks quite ok . And i saw that your headphones are double the impedance, I was hoping the USB-C could provide decent power
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I even have to use my yamaha mt220 at the highest volume with max 2 which is also kinda very low impedance around 37ohms.
But usually those marketed impedance values often makes no sense in real life.. As an example, 612pro is harder to drive than sennheiser 6xx series and beyerdynamic dt150, dt770/990/880(250ohm versions)
I also auditioned 7xx few years ago and it is far more drivable than 612 or 6xx series.. May be it it might needs around same power as q701.. Could be very close.. As as predicted earlier I still think Max 2 might be able to drive 7xx in highest volume, may be not in full potential.
Or you can simply get a good portable amp/dac like fiio E17K and use it with usb otg with max 2
appsmarsterx said:
I even have to use my yamaha mt220 at the highest volume with max 2 which is also kinda very low impedance around 37ohms.
But usually those marketed impedance values often makes no sense in real life.. As an example, 612pro is harder to drive than sennheiser 6xx series and beyerdynamic dt150, dt770/990/880(250ohm versions)
I also auditioned 7xx few years ago and it is far more drivable than 612 or 6xx series.. May be it it might needs around same power as q701.. Could be very close.. As as predicted earlier I still think Max 2 might be able to drive 7xx in highest volume, may be not in full potential.
Or you can simply get a good portable amp/dac like fiio E17K and use it with usb otg with max 2
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Thanks for the info
Hi everyone, I came across a mod on a russian forum and decided to give it a try myself.
My unit:
Eonon GA2171S - MTCE KLD PX5 with 4GB RAM, DSP built in.
The original amplifier chip is a TDA7851A and I have successfully replaced it with a Pioneer MOSFET PA2030A
There isn't a decent datasheet of the PA2030A but from what I have read it has a higher power output of approx 35W RMS and 60W MAX at 4 ohms. The TDA7851A is 28W RMS and 48W MAX at 4 ohms.
Replacement wasn't easy!
1) Disassemble the unit to remove the main board. My unit was especially bad because they used an adhesive silicon glue on every connector which I had to cut to free the parts.
2) Identify the amp chip - it is between the rear headers
3) Remove the old amp chip - I bent the amp chip to snap off the pins so that I could de-solder it easier. I tried with solder wick, but it wasn't working well. In the end I melted each pin and removed with pliers, and then went along each hole and used a solder sucker.
4) Fit the new amplifier chip - ensure it sits in the correct position to attach to the chassis. I found this was easiest by holding the chassis in place while I made the first few solder joints on the board
5) Solder all the pins carefully - You will want to use a fair bit of heat to ensure you don't get dry joints. Visually inspect when done to make sure you don't have any shorts.
6) Reassemble the unit
7) Test!
At this stage I would say the sound quality has improved noticeably but it isn't a huge change. The highs seem a little clearer and there does seem to be a bit more punch when pushing the bass too. I'm still trying to find the ideal DSP and EQ settings. With Flat EQ it sounds terrible as always so make sure you tune it well!
I sourced the part from WWW.UTSOURCE.NET
This mod is aviable Ford px3 mtcd eonon Ga8161 7.1? I have a tda7851a chip on mb and wadzio mcu mod but my mb not have a dsp.. Thanks.. Best work
Hi! Yes if you have the same chip I did then it is a direct replacement. It isn't dependent on the DSP
Thank you very much .. Do I have to remove the mcu patch of widzio in your opinion? I've been looking around for a while now on the internet and talk about adding or changing a capacitor, I currently do not get half of the maximum volume level with mods from wadzio and viper4android
An92 said:
This mod is aviable Ford px3 mtcd eonon Ga8161 7.1? I have a tda7851a chip on mb and wadzio mcu mod but my mb not have a dsp.. Thanks.. Best work
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An92 said:
Thank you very much .. Do I have to remove the mcu patch of widzio in your opinion? I've been looking around for a while now on the internet and talk about adding or changing a capacitor, I currently do not get half of the maximum volume level with mods from wadzio and viper4android
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Click to collapse
No you won't need to remove any mod as this just replaces the output stage. Volume probably won't improve, but have you tried the following things?
Factory settings > Voice > System (set to 20)
Factory settings > other > Amp volume (set to 0db)
Oh sorry and yes it is compatible with any unit running the TDA 7851A chip
@millab
Thanks for the information, I explained myself badly .. The volume is fine, it is set to 0 in the factory settings. First I wanted to say that already at half of the maximum power of the volume bar the audio is powerful. In the internet I read that in addition to changing it seems the amplifier chip with a pioneer must change the capacitor, but only if you use the volume as much as possible (professional audio tuning systems) in my case at 50% I already have to close my ears
I have a sound process BD375XX
Oh ok I understand. I didn't change my capacitor, the standard is 3300uf and from my reading it is a good match for this amplifier. I do not detect any distortion or lack of power at higher volumes.
What rating capacitor is recommended from your reading?
@millab
I have a 3300uf condensator on my mb KLD MTCD
Like yours .. So I know it's okay.. I have now ordered the pioneer chip, I wait for it to improve the audio quality, even if with the widzio mod it is viper4android and it has become much better .. Thanks for the advice my friend .. I'll let you know soon
millab said:
Hi everyone, I came across a mod on a russian forum and decided to give it a try myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, because if you see something on a Russian forum, you absolutely must do!!!!
The original amplifier chip is a TDA7851A and I have successfully replaced it with a Pioneer MOSFET PA2030A
There isn't a decent datasheet of the PA2030A but from what I have read it has a higher power output of approx 35W RMS and 60W MAX at 4 ohms. The TDA7851A is 28W RMS and 48W MAX at 4 ohms.
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Click to collapse
So here is the problem with what you did.
The PA2030A is **NOT** 60W. Its 50W.
The reason you can't find a "decent datasheet" is because it is NOT manufactured by pioneer. It is, in fact, manufactured by STMicroelectronics. It is, in fact, a TDA7850A that has been "rebadged" -- just like they do with cars where, for example, Nissan Frontier was (for a while) being sold as "Suzuki Equator". They even go so far as to use the same "A" suffix. PA2030 = TDA7850, PA2030A = TDA7850A. This is its datasheet: https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/tda7850a.pdf
So here is the thing..... TDA7388.
42 or 45 x4. People have been replacing THOSE with either TDA7850/1 or PA2030. Reason? Give you an extra 5W. Enough to make a difference? Heck no, but more watts!!!
I'm really sorry to tell you that any difference in sound quality is purely a figment of your imagination and nothing more. You have, in fact, replaced your amplifier chip with one that is very nearly identical.
96carboard said:
Yeah, because if you see something on a Russian forum, you absolutely must do!!!!
So here is the problem with what you did.
The PA2030A is **NOT** 60W. Its 50W.
The reason you can't find a "decent datasheet" is because it is NOT manufactured by pioneer. It is, in fact, manufactured by STMicroelectronics. It is, in fact, a TDA7850A that has been "rebadged" -- just like they do with cars where, for example, Nissan Frontier was (for a while) being sold as "Suzuki Equator". They even go so far as to use the same "A" suffix. PA2030 = TDA7850, PA2030A = TDA7850A. This is its datasheet: https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/tda7850a.pdf
So here is the thing..... TDA7388.
42 or 45 x4. People have been replacing THOSE with either TDA7850/1 or PA2030. Reason? Give you an extra 5W. Enough to make a difference? Heck no, but more watts!!!
I'm really sorry to tell you that any difference in sound quality is purely a figment of your imagination and nothing more. You have, in fact, replaced your amplifier chip with one that is very nearly identical.
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Click to collapse
Yes, quite right, has been discussed in other threads. Also what you are referring to is component 'binning' by the manufacturer. Note that the amp IC, unless obtained from Pioneer, it is likely to be a Chinese counterfeit part.
For those wanting an improvement, connect external amp(s).
For the OP, a very well detailed post, which would be very helpful to those wanting to replace a failed AMP.
@marchnz @96carboard
@millab
hi, I just replaced my Tda7851L with this so-called pionieer pa2030a, ok the sound seems slightly better, but if you're right I'll tell you something.
I always had a problem on my unit eonon px3 (KLYDE) 7.1 GA8161.
the problem is in the use of USB ports, as a memory, but above all with a USB dvr, which when I use it emits from the unit an annoying and audible noise.
after the replacement with the pa2030a this background noise with usb dvr and almost disappeared (there is but much lower), it is not my idea, he also noticed my friend. now, how do you explain ?? I'm banging for a year to remove this problem but I have not succeeded in any way, the manufacturer sent me a new MB and when I replaced the noise was always the. now it's gone ...
say that it is not original, the chip could ruin or be dangerous? can it catch fire??
---------- Post added at 21:48 ---------- Previous post was at 21:07 ----------
I have this
Tda on net
While the pioneers on the net are like that
Or
Apart this, look at the codes on the chip that I purchased (image 1) are the same as those on the chip tda (image 2) but different from all the images of the pa2030a that you find on the network (image 3) that the. Mio is a true pa2030a or tda .. If it was a copy that makes sense to put codes of a tda on a copy pioneer?
If you look at the pioneer for sale ripped off by the mb are like those sold on the network even from China for $ 3 4. It does not mean anything but I took from France for 11..that you say .. Are there any dangers of fire or damage?
One last question .. Reply @millab at the beginning I was wrong .. My is not a Tda7851a but a Tda7851L .. And anyway the tda7851l has 25 pins like the pa2030a and then I could do Plug and play while the tda7851a has 27 pins .. Did you isolate the external pins ??. You can kindly answer all my questions .. Above all the risks ??
I’ve done some research and I’ve found this comparison table from ST site, what do you think about this little guy? STPA003
Seems like pin to pin compatible
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa003.pdf
ciccimatt said:
I’ve done some research and I’ve found this comparison table from ST site, what do you think about this little guy? STPA003
Seems like pin to pin compatible
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa003.pdf
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Click to collapse
Miss the posts outlining there is nothing to gain?
Tda7851L have 25 pin
Pa2030a have a 25pin
Tda7850a have a 27 pin
How does pa2030a be the tda7850a?
Sorry I was mistaken, the original chip was a TDA7851L with 25 pins.
An92 said:
Tda7851L have 25 pin
Pa2030a have a 25pin
Tda7850a have a 27 pin
How does pa2030a be the tda7850a?
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Click to collapse
Hmm it does look like yours is a copy (rebadged TDA clone?) but due to different internal resistances that have been reported in TDA clones, maybe that is enough to lower the noise you used to hear? You shouldn't worry about fire, at worst it may fail prematurely in which case you know how to replace it.
The chip I purchased does look to be a genuine Pioneer chip. It is manufactured differently to the TDA chips. It has a heavier ceramic casing and has the correct codes and 'Japan' marked on the front. The sound is definitely improved, and it is not just a placebo I assure you - I'm a live audio engineer and there is definitely more power coming from this amplifier. When you are dealing with stock car stereo components, the difference of a few watts RMS and a stable power supply can make a huge difference in how your system can sound.
Should I stay with my tda7851L or do I put pioneer pa2030a?
An92 said:
Should I stay with my tda7851L or do I put pioneer pa2030a?
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Click to collapse
Missed the items suggesting there's no major benefit, use an external amp.
An92 said:
@marchnz @96carboard
@millab
hi, I just replaced my Tda7851L with this so-called pionieer pa2030a, ok the sound seems slightly better, but if you're right I'll tell you something.
I always had a problem on my unit eonon px3 (KLYDE) 7.1 GA8161.
the problem is in the use of USB ports, as a memory, but above all with a USB dvr, which when I use it emits from the unit an annoying and audible noise.
after the replacement with the pa2030a this background noise with usb dvr and almost disappeared (there is but much lower), it is not my idea, he also noticed my friend. now, how do you explain ?? I'm banging for a year to remove this problem but I have not succeeded in any way, the manufacturer sent me a new MB and when I replaced the noise was always the. now it's gone ...
say that it is not original, the chip could ruin or be dangerous? can it catch fire??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the thing... your radio isn't a big western or japanese brand. Its a nobody-ever-heard-of chinese brand. There is actually a very good chance that the chip it came with was actually counterfit or binned as "not good enough to sell".
---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:57 PM ----------
ciccimatt said:
I’ve done some research and I’ve found this comparison table from ST site, what do you think about this little guy? STPA003
Seems like pin to pin compatible
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa003.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For a custom board I've developed, I selected that stpa003 as the amplifier. Its a wonderful chip, and is stable all the way down to 6 volts. This morning it was so damned cold out that my engine would barely crank, but the sound never skipped a beat.
SO you are BOTH wrong.. The ST TDA7850A is a 27 PIN package as the Pioneer and those other variants are all 25 pin and are NOT compatible. The pioneer could very well be the TDA7850 as it IS pin compatible with the other package the OP listed. NOW lets look at the situation at hand and see what we COULD benefit from a swap of our Flexiwatt25 Amplifier IC.
ST was kind enough to provide us a database of pin capatible ICs. We are going to want to look at ONLY the 'Y' designation.
LINK- ST SITE, SEARC,H, sgaudiopow0315.pdf
NOW looking at this document provided by ST they have a few new variants that we could take advantage of. They have the lowest THD 0.15 IIR down to .007 TYP.
Also a higher output and GSM blocking internally. They are available in the 25 pin configuration and will work down to 6V (designed for automanufactures that are stopping engine cylinders for fuel mileage)
In this list here is the ICs that I would look at as the highest quality and PIN compatible.
STPA001,2,3,8 as they are all a little different. you want 25 pin VERTICAL. they have much better THD and a little boost in output. 2 Ohms capable also
sticking with the TDA line of ICs I would look at the MOSFET series and the following again with much better THD.
TDA7560, TDA7850
Hope this clears the air. DO NOT use the suffix A ICs as what I see they are all the 27 PIN Flexiwatt package
---------- Post added 7th March 2019 at 12:01 AM ---------- Previous post was 6th March 2019 at 11:58 PM ----------
the noise as you say could be GSM noise that ST targetted to reject in these later chips FYI