So as others have posted here, I've got serious USB issues for months now. I first thought it's the cold weather, but after a week or three with nice weather above zero all the time, and now even 16C I still have issues. I tried to find the issue today, and removed everything from the radio that could interfere. Nothing at all!
I have a USB hub that I connect with a LED in it that indicates there's power. That LED is always on when I plug it in, so there's power, but the HU detects nothing that I plug in. Not with, or without the hub. Nothing from TPMS or DAB+. The USB Controller app also detects nothing.
Everything is screwed down properly it seems, and giving a push on everything doesn't change anything. I'm on the latest Malysk ROM with the so-called software fix, but that doesn't help either. Also manually executing the fix doesn't help. Even resetting the USB via the app doesn't work anymore.
I'm afraid my USB just completely died on my now. I've tried to reboot a few times, and still nothing.
I really don't want to lose DAB+ and TPMS. That's really useful if you're used to it. Going back to commercials and muddy sounds from FM is such a shame!
Any idea what I can do? I don't think I can replace the USB chip myself without ruining the complete unit. Replace SoM? Replace motherboard? Buy a new unit? Is anyone aware of new units with the proper USB chip? Maybe those PX6 ones?
btw, checked my board and it says HCT-PX5-REV4.0.
And now my sound is completely screwed up as well. Very soft and without bass. As if my amp doesn't really start anymore, anyone an idea which wire to check for that?
To me it sounds as if your MCU does not work properly. I guess that you have a faulty soldering joint. USB devices can draw quite a current from the board. It may be that this caused a soldering joint to crack.
I would go for an optical inspection first. Check if the SOM is plugged in properly and that no capacitors are blown as well.
f465gt said:
To me it sounds as if your MCU does not work properly. I guess that you have a faulty soldering joint. USB devices can draw quite a current from the board. It may be that this caused a soldering joint to crack.
I would go for an optical inspection first. Check if the SOM is plugged in properly and that no capacitors are blown as well.
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Already tried and check that. Nothing weird to see.
But guess what?! It suddenly worked now for 2 days!! Why/how?! It's so unreliable, not sure when it will break again.
It really looks like either temperature or soldering issues. I would go for an optical inspection, just to make sure that no wires are loose or pins are broken.
f465gt said:
It really looks like either temperature or soldering issues. I would go for an optical inspection, just to make sure that no wires are loose or pins are broken.
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Click to collapse
Already checked. Nothing weird to see. It has been 10+ degrees for weeks so I doubt it's the temperature.
I don't mean the outside temperatures. The unit heats up while being used. This causes bad soldering joints to get loose. Perhaps it is also a good idea to check the voltage supply. There should be some sort of voltage regulator that heats up. If e. g. the 5V regulator fails, your unit will show such a behaviour. I vaguely can remember that on the S160 units there was sometimes such an issue. Somewhere around here there were some schematics. Search for them.
f465gt said:
I don't mean the outside temperatures. The unit heats up while being used. This causes bad soldering joints to get loose. Perhaps it is also a good idea to check the voltage supply. There should be some sort of voltage regulator that heats up. If e. g. the 5V regulator fails, your unit will show such a behaviour. I vaguely can remember that on the S160 units there was sometimes such an issue. Somewhere around here there were some schematics. Search for them.
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I've got a 12V big fan on top and heatsinks on everything. The CPU never goes above 50C.
But I doubt heat is an issue after a few seconds when the system has booted.
Ah, then the MCU crashed during boot. Does your car interrupt the ACC power while cranking? If so it is a good idea to add a relay box that switches permanent battery voltage over to the ACC line for a few seconds. I am using this one: https://www.amazon.de/Phonocar-Spannungsstabilisator-Fahrzeuge-Start-Automatik/dp/B00AK95QUA
This is an actual relay, not just some diodes and capacitors.
https://www.roadnav.com/forum/knowl...lay-buffer-radio-power-on-during-engine-start
Related
Hey guys.
Any time I connect the phone to my computer via USB, the phone's touchscreen goes bonkers. It wont register my touch in the correct location, it jumps around and registers button-presses that I never pressed, or won't register a firm screen-press at all!
If the USB is unplugged, everything zips along accurately.
Any idea what might be causing this, and how I might fix it?
Just a quick background:
I rooted and installed the lag-fix. I encountered a problem with the lag-fix, restored factory settings, and root/lag-fixed again. The problem cropped up after the factory restore.
BTownTKD said:
Hey guys.
Any time I connect the phone to my computer via USB, the phone's touchscreen goes bonkers. It wont register my touch in the correct location, it jumps around and registers button-presses that I never pressed...
Any idea what might be causing this, and how I might fix it?
Just a quick background:
I rooted and installed the lag-fix. I encountered a problem with the lag-fix, restored factory settings, and root/lag-fixed again. The problem cropped up after the factory restore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's wacky. Since you've already done it once, I'd just restore again and see if that fixes it.
Also... not sure if this is a side-effect of the factory restore, but guess what suddenly appeared in my Widgets list??
Google Search!
BTownTKD said:
Also... not sure if this is a side-effect of the factory restore, but guess what suddenly appeared in my Widgets list??
Google Search!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using LauncherPro by any chance? It's been showing up with LP since Day 1.. If not, that's pretty darn cool then.
namebrandon said:
Using LauncherPro by any chance? It's been showing up with LP since Day 1.. If not, that's pretty darn cool then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops... launcherPro.
I've since reset the factory settings again; no luck. Still all wonky when USB is plugged in.
I'm considering taking it back to best buy and simply exchanging it for a different one, since I've only had it for a day. I would think that resetting everything to factory defaults would have fixed any software problem. Maybe this is a hardware problem that I just now noticed.
I have heard roomer, that if your usb is to low or to high of a voltage it will bork up the touch screen while plugged in.
it seems a common occurrence on many Android phones that use our style of USB port that if you use a 3rd party usb cable (i.e. one other than what shipped with the phone) as well as many 3rd party usb wall chargers that the touchscreen will either go bonkers or freeze up alltogether.
I've seen the exact same thing happen with my friends HTC MT3G and Motorola CliqXT using certain cables and chargers. Any cables/chargers that do this to my Vibrant do it to their phones too.
Interesting. I'm glad I read all this before I decided to take it back;
the laptop I had it plugged into is so fubar'd, that it would not surprise me to find that it has incorrect voltage...
This happens all the time on my Droid 2, Nexus and Fascinate. I just swipe very quickly and press lightly. However, no matter how many "tricks" I try it's still hard to flip through screens or open the correct app. Hardest task would be to navigate a website. Considering it happens on multiple Android devices and computers I never really put too much thought into it. Just figured it to be a Android bug.
Wow, never seen this. Now I do use the cable that came with my fascinate to plug into my computer, however car charger, wall chargers, and a USB charger (in my truck), I just use the cables from my Droid1. All my chargers are generics... Hmmm..
my htc touch pro 2 did the same thing when i used a gps car charger... screen went crazy
chargers
Ok. So for anyone wanting to know what's going on in the background to cause problems with your phone with crappy chargers....
I first discovered this with another touch screen player *cough*ipodTouch*cough*cough when I was trying to make a universal 4-port USB charging bay that would work with my sansa and my ...other player.
The specification that most device-manufacturing companies use nowadays for charging states that for a device to recognize a charger (and to start accepting a charge from the charger), the data pins must be shorted (connected together). This is what Sandisk, Apple, and several others are using. That is how I built my 4 port USB charger and it works flawlessly (with my sansa, ipod, galaxy, and Cowon S9).
NOW, somewhere floating around on the net are specs that state that some data must be sent/received through the USB's data cable (i believe it claims to need any 2.5V) which basically puts some resistors in to make a voltage divider.with the power and ground and data pins. THESE ARE BAD SPECS. They might have been legit in the past for some other device, but they are NOT what our phones need.
So some of the cheap, off-brand chargers are actually sending random messages to our Phones through the data pins (non-sense 2.5 volts). I haven't heard any reports of this damaging the phone or mp3 players yet, but whenever I plug mine into a charger and I lose the ability to control the screen, I get nervous b/c I know there is voltage on the data pins, and I don't know if it's the correct amount. So I get nervous
...does that make sense?
I had the Droid and the first time I saw that, it freaked me out. It seems to be an issue with touch screen android phones when they don't receive the correct voltage, whether because of a 3rd party cable, or a different computer voltage or something. I was using my blackberry mini usb charger and it would act like it had rabies. Nothing is wrong with your phone.
The charger included is plugged in next to my bed, and I'm using my Droid's USB cable in the computer without issues. That's very strange. I've never heard of this problem.
Kamar234 said:
I had the Droid and the first time I saw that, it freaked me out. It seems to be an issue with touch screen android phones when they don't receive the correct voltage, whether because of a 3rd party cable, or a different computer voltage or something. I was using my blackberry mini usb charger and it would act like it had rabies. Nothing is wrong with your phone.
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Click to collapse
Sorry dude. It's not just android handsets, and it doesn't (seem) to have anything to do with the proper voltage. I've taken multimeters to the chargers. They are providing the proper ~4.5-5V range. It has to be the data pins.
Although, that's just the chargers I've had. Take a voltmeter to your usb chargers (don't touch the casing at the same time!) and see what their voltage is. But a low voltage just wouldn't charge your phone, and a high voltage would damage it.
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
j0hn0n1 said:
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
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Click to collapse
i have the same problem with my x10 but i have warranty but whilst i was waiting for them to collect it, i cut my usb lead up and stripped the black and red cables back obviously positive and negative and took the battery out and wedged each cable on the phone connector with the battery my battery had a plus and negative signs on it so was easy 2 work out, it charges the battery but it doesnt come up as charging on the phone it will still blind red lights but doesnt turn off, you have to keep and eye on the charging levels on the phone status do not let it go over 99% as this method dont tell the battery to stop charging, also this is not full proof and could break your x10 if not dont correctly,but as for your question the usb port does need to be soldered good luck
j0hn0n1 said:
I know this isn't a new topic and I've read lot's of posts about similar problems, with various causes and fixes, but my x10i isn't charging at all. Neither through the wall charger or through the usb. When I look into the charging port I can see that one of the little metal pins is bent right up, so I've decided to try and replace the charging block.
I got a charging block off ebay, but I'm no expert when it comes to soldering & electronics, but since the phone is dead anyway I have nothing to loose.
As far as I can tell when I look at the original one, there doesn't seem to be any signs of soldering in the first place, although the connections are all so tiny that it's hard to tell.
So am I right in thinking that the charging block doesn't need to be soldered at all, and could I get away with just gluing it to the board, and if so what would be a suitable glue for this kind of purpose.
Thanks ...John...
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Click to collapse
Hi John,
I fixed my friends USB port, you will need:
"helping hands" (a tool for holding small things with a magnifying glass)
0.5mm or 1mm Soldering iron
Hot glue
Under the magnifying glass, there you will see the 5 pins the usb port was solderded onto. You will need to put a little bit of solder onto each pin and onto the board.
Hold everything together with the helping hands, and just tick the soldering blobs with your iron. This will connect all the points. Do not solder for to long, or you will bridge pins or remove the solder.
Continue until all 5 is connected. Solder the 2 points on the side (holds the USB port, you could do this first if you don't have the helping hands)
plug in cable, use multimeter to see if there is current by you battery pins.
Voila.
If no power then you have to follow one of those fixes online where you have to bridge the doide and the V+ port.
Thanks for the info, like I said the phone is dead anyway, so I can't really make it any worse (That's what I keep telling myself anyway).
It the parts were a lot bigger, I probably wouldn't be bothered as much, but if I do get it wrong, I'm hoping I can take it off, remove the solder and just start again. (hopefully)
I think I have a good idea now of what I'm supposed to be doing, but I'll probably have to wait till I get a new soldering iron, as mine is a little bit too big.
Thanks ...John...
So my tablet stopped charging yesterday. I know a lot of people are having issues with their wall charger, but I think my problem is due to the 40 pin connector. It looks like two or three of the pins got bent (not sure how). Every time I plug it in, it has a light crunching feeling. The wire to tablet connection is not sturdy at all and tends to bend downwards due to a lack of support in the tablet. Asus is sending me info on how to return the device. The tablet has been amazing other than this poor design. Anyone else having this issue?
punkcitykid said:
So my tablet stopped charging yesterday. I know a lot of people are having issues with their wall charger, but I think my problem is due to the 40 pin connector. It looks like two or three of the pins got bent (not sure how). Every time I plug it in, it has a light crunching feeling. The wire to tablet connection is not sturdy at all and tends to bend downwards due to a lack of support in the tablet. Asus is sending me info on how to return the device. The tablet has been amazing other than this poor design. Anyone else having this issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine wouldn't charge/transfer data but that's because the connector fell apart. Not sure how your pins managed to get bent, but it should be easily rectified via RMA. Until you get your new charger you could probably snag an OG TF charger and use that. However, I would also check the socket on the Prime itself, see if there is anything "odd?" going on in there that could have bent the pins (and possibly do it again once you get another charger).
same problem here- I started another thread. the tablet will no longer charge. It was intermittent at first. sometimes it would stop charging without ever removing the charger or 40 pin connector from the device.
I don't know if it is just a bad charger/cable , or if there is something wrong internally on the tablet. I will be shipping mine back for full refund from where i purchased, unless there is something else to try?
In some cars, such as mine, when I start the engine, ACC power is cut to the HU. So, if I am sitting in the car with the HU on and engine off, when I then start the engine, power is briefly interrupted to the HU. Sometimes this can cause issues with Android. It can also restart the boot sequence if the HU hadn't fully booted. So I have been considering this mod...
dsa8310 said:
Since the ignition wire gives a very weak signal to the HU, using a diode and a capacitor at the ignition entry of the HU should prevent the reset without any Xposed based module.
It works for my mirror with compass.
(the diode has one end connected to the ignition wire; the capacitor has one end connected to ground; the other two ends are connected to the ignition entry of the HU - the red wire(?))
Just use a so called solid/polymer capacitor (not with liquid electrolyte!) which works below freezing temperatures - or otherwise rated up to -40 degrees Celsius.
Code:
HU IGN
IGN o-------i>|-------X------i]-------o GND
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Click to collapse
dsa8310 said:
Any (Sillicium) diode would do, finding the appropriate capacitor value, only by testing. If it's too big, then the normal powering off is delayed objectionably, while if too small, it won't delay enough (to cover for those few seconds while the engine starter is working). You would also need a capacitor that still works at below freezing temperatures (solid, tantalum).
Just connect the diode between your ACC/IGN car (or CAN bus adapter) wire and the HU IGN entry, and the capacitor between the same HU entry and ground.
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clearchris said:
I reccommend against tantalum caps unless you really know what you are doing as tantalum caps failure mode is flames. :fingers-crossed:
Solid polymer organic caps, though harder to find, or low temp rated electrolytics (they exist) are what i would go with.
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dsa8310 said:
Read my lips:
Connect a diode (Si) between the car's ACC wire and the HU's ACC entry. If the HU does not start then reverse the diode.
Connect a capacitor between the HU's ACC entry and ground. Choose a capacitor able to function below freezing temperatures. If capacitance is too big, the HU will remain on too long after stopping the car engine. Conversely, if it's too small, the starter will reset the HU as before. Start with a 100uF capacitor and find the optimal value for your car.
If unhappy with this hardware solution, delve into the Xposed framework based software solutions (mtc... xposed... something).
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680uF & 1,000uF capacitors have been suggested.
But then I saw mention of some prebuilt timer PCBs and there were some links to listings on eBay USA. Has anyone got any links to tried and tested devices sold through UK based sellers that are relatively simple for a non-electronics expert to configure?
What are your exact problems with your HU?
I had the same issues with those cheap USB plugs for the cigarette lighter.
5V output is not stable during power on, the connected usb harddrive does a reset.
I took a look at the switched 12V supply. In my case when powering on the switched power supply is pulled down to 0V for about 2seconds.
That's nothing you can solve with a capacitor. Step 1 was to use a diode with resitor capacitor combination to switch a relay.
Step 2 was to use a different 5V supply which is stable down to 6V.
It's not a major problem. I just don't like power being interrupted when starting the engine. This can interrupt the boot process, causing a slight delay. It can also cause an error message when booted, some sort of system app / service doesn't like it. Also, I don't think it's good for device longevity having its power suddenly cut and reapplied in quick succession. So I wanna fit a capacitor to keep the ACC power live to the HU when starting the engine.
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi CARRisma, just use a capacitor rated above 12v, 16v would be fine, keep in mind that xxV referes to the maximun volta. the capacitor can handle, the other value ( µF, F...) is the "charge" it can hold. Very important, if you use electrolytic capacitor pay attention to the polarity (- to GND and + to POSITIVE), otherwhise it could EXPLODE
A picture (video) is worth a thousand words
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KX5HIE7Ddk
I'm going to have to do this too. Every time I start my car w/ the unit already booted up it starts to shut down and it says exchange service has crashed or something similar. Are you just using one cap and without a diode? Could you tell me what you go with?
Dave
Yes, that's the problem I have, some sort of Google service crashes. I plan to use a diode too.
CARRisma said:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want a 12 v one - "12 volts" in a car is actually closer to 13.5 v. I'd get a 25 v one. You can use one which is rated for more voltage within reason (e.g. don't go for a 250 v one), it's just that as the voltage rating increases so does the size and cost.
so are you guys going to use a 1 Farad 16v cap? Unless my math is wrong but that is HUGE.
Dave
Pass, I haven't got that far yet and electronics isn't my strong point.
Or based on size constraints i'm thinking maybe wiring three 5.5V 1.5F in series to get me to about 16.5V .5F. That'd give me about a second and a half of capacity down to 10V. You guys think that'd be acceptable for this instance?
Maybe try one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PD65UGA
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/timer-c-68/multifunctional-3v24v-time-delay-relay-timer-p-192.html
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
For packaging reasons I think I may go with this instead. Three of these will put me at 16.2V and 1.68F and I'd have ~5 seconds of runtime in a manageable package about 1.25" square. Problem is I have to buy 100 of these things although their 100qty is cheaper than most 5qty. Opinions?
Or maybe these as they're a bit cheaper and smaller
TT_Vert said:
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that a response to the timing I posted? If so this timer is programmable so if you want it to smooth out a drop in acc it will do that. You simply set its delay longer that you expect the drop for the cranking. Obviously, you can also use it for longer delays if you want your unit to be powered for a period of time after you turn off the car. Both short and long delays will smooth out your issue.
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
The ignition wire is only a signal, power is drawn from a different wire. Maybe a couple of mA? So, a few mF might do.
You're right. I thought it was more than a signal. it is only drawing 1ma. Excellent, looks like a 35v 1000μF should do nicely.
TT_Vert said:
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think perhaps you misunderstand how this works. If you configure the timer delay for 30 seconds it solves your problem. If you configure it for 10 seconds it probably solves your problem. You don't need to know specifically how long because if you set it at something like 30 and your cranking lasts 3 seconds it still works because the cut of acc triggers the timer and the power stays on for 30 seconds. 3 seconds later the power turns on and the timer stops because you have power again.
Thanks, I'll look further into this.
Dave
Went ahead and used a 470μF cap today w/ a 1A rectifier diode and it works great. W/O the diode i only got about 1/2 a second of capacity. with the diode I get over 7 seconds. It seems the HU will stay on when the acc. is all the way down to ~6.5v which surprised me.
I believe I have a broken USB charging port on my device, or possible the battery (but praying it's software)
Have tried multiple chargers/cable combinations and most of the time it hovers around 260-640mA. Often charging when it's off it loses battery. Seems if I wiggle it a bit sometimes I get a constant connection. When I leave it in fastboot mode I might get 50% charge of 12hrs. Anything else I'm missing to try this?
Sometimes when I run ampere it shoots up to 1240mA but drops slowly down after every refresh
I live in Austrailia where we don't have any Xiaomi support centres however it's still under warranty (10months old 2months to go) but would have to send back to China for assessment and fear they might just say it's my fault for bending the pins.
Thanks in advance
nickyyboyy said:
Seems if I wiggle it a bit sometimes I get a constant connection.
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Click to collapse
It sounds like a faulty USB port. No worries, a replacement is very cheap and easy to replace. It may be even cheaper if you replace USB socket but this requires soldering skills.
:good: