Howdy all,
What size double sided tape should I use to stick my Asus TF201 digitizer and LCD back together? I have 3 options, a 1mm, 2mm and 3mm double sided tape. Not sure whats on it now, but if anyone has an idea I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
Nightpath said:
Howdy all,
What size double sided tape should I use to stick my Asus TF201 digitizer and LCD back together? I have 3 options, a 1mm, 2mm and 3mm double sided tape. Not sure whats on it now, but if anyone has an idea I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recommend not using any foam tape at all to stick the digitizer to the LCD. I thought there'd be light leaks if I didn't. There were no light leaks. I used double-sided scotch tape to stick the digizer to the front bezel. It worked very well.
If you *do* use foam tape to stick the LCD to the digitizer, you'll go ape-**** crazy if you notice any fingerprints or particles on the inside of the digizer. Without sticking the two together, you can easily separate the two if you need to.
So double sided scotch tape eh? Whats the difference, just easier to take apart if you have to?
Might be an idea, seems to be more of it around here and waaayyy cheaper
Would this be it (put in b0p 1n0 if it asks for a postal code)? : http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/c...191,4,6&name=CA_SK_SCOTCH+-+Double-Sided+Tape
here's another, says it's removeable tape so I don't think that's a great idea : http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/cat_sku.asp?CatIds=3,3191,4,6&webid=33734&affixedcode=WW
Here's mounting tape, would this work too you think? http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/cat_skuset.asp?CatIds=3,3191,4,6&name=CA_SK_3M+-+Mounting+Tape
And here's a tape of MC Hammer : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otCpCn0l4Wo
LOL on the MC Hammer!
On the mounting tape, keep in mind that the Prime's display has two types of mounting tape. The digitizer glass is affixed to the plastic bezel with very thin (and very sticky) double-sided celophane type adhesive. Then, the LCD is affixed with black foam tape (and screws). i used the Scotch tape to stick my digitizer to the bezel. This had the advantage of being very easy to trim with an exacto. I chose not to use any foam tape at all with the LCD and just rely on the screws to hold it in place. I was needlessly worried about light bleed. It did not. It was fine.
By not using foam tape, I had the HUGE advantage of being able to later remove a tiny speck of debris that got sandwiched between the LCD and digitizer. It was very small, but drove me nuts. If I had used foam tape to mount the LCD, the risk of breaking the damned thing again would have been too great to try removing the speck. It'd still be there.
I highly recommend not using any foam tape. At least try without first. You can always add it later if your heart is set on it. I've read other threads where folks ended up breaking the digitizer or LCD when having a foam-tape malfunction (stuck to the wrong spot, wasn't lined up right, etc.).
I don't use cheap tape or scotch tape (3m) as generally it's not sticky enough for most jobs like this.
I highly recommend mammoth tape for this job. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=m...AW81oG4Bg&sqi=2&ved=0CFoQrQQ&biw=1067&bih=693 don't get the one with the cloth membrane (labeled as Heavy duty double sided tape) as its too thick and very hard to cut, the one you need is labeled "multi purpose double sided tape".
I get it from a builders merchants but you can get it online. I have tried many brands and alternatives but mammoth is the best stuff I have found.
Ultimately folks can do whatever they want and feel comfortable with. I would council any close friends to just go with the double-sided Scotch tape to stick the digitizer glass to the bezel. It's plenty sticky enough and there's enough (around 1m total perimeter) that you get a good stick. BONUS: It's good and cheap.
With as fragile as the digitizer glass is, you really don't want to screw around with ridiculously sticky adhesives. On the likely chance (unless you're a pro) that you don't set the glass in the bezel just right, highly sticky adhesive is going to make repositioning much harder and you may very well break the new glass trying to reposition.
I highly recommend not using any adhesive at all to hold the LCD to the digitizer for the reasons I've already mentioned. You'll really wish you hadn't.
Jgrimoldy said:
Ultimately folks can do whatever they want and feel comfortable with. I would council any close friends to just go with the double-sided Scotch tape to stick the digitizer glass to the bezel. It's plenty sticky enough and there's enough (around 1m total perimeter) that you get a good stick. BONUS: It's good and cheap.
With as fragile as the digitizer glass is, you really don't want to screw around with ridiculously sticky adhesives. On the likely chance (unless you're a pro) that you don't set the glass in the bezel just right, highly sticky adhesive is going to make repositioning much harder and you may very well break the new glass trying to reposition.
I highly recommend not using any adhesive at all to hold the LCD to the digitizer for the reasons I've already mentioned. You'll really wish you hadn't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I was thinking. My LCD was slightly cracked on the edge, but not noticeable. With the 2 sided Scotch tape ($5 here) if it breaks again I can replace it without totally busting the LCD. And if it's sitting in a decent case the screen is going to be reinforced anyway.
Nightpath said:
That's what I was thinking. My LCD was slightly cracked on the edge, but not noticeable. With the 2 sided Scotch tape ($5 here) if it breaks again I can replace it without totally busting the LCD. And if it's sitting in a decent case the screen is going to be reinforced anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure going without the foam is the right thing in all instances. I'm working on a Casio G'Zone Commando, replacing the digitizer, and noticed that the digitizer will only work accurately if it is elevated slightly more than if it just sits on the frame where the foam tape was at. I can't tell if the digitizer is just wonky or if the slight elevation caused by the foam tape is needed with this phone.
This is purely for sharing purpose and proof of theory, if you decide to do it on your own, then its all your own risk
Since in my country, Whitestone Dome is not available, and i cant find any good similar product,
I decide to make it on my own,
i do smartphone repair on a daily basis, and i know how to use LOCA glue, and i had available tools around,
So i grab one Nillkin 3D CP+ Max Full Screen Glass Protector,
i put the LOCA glue on the screen, and apply the glass on top, let the glue spread evenly,
curing it using UV lamp, and....
Sorry i forgot to create video
Here's the result : Full Screen Tempered Glass With Full Adhesive :fingers-crossed:
Video of the result : https://www.instagram.com/p/BVmub7Mg5SD/
hello. i wait someone to post this theory about loca glue with normal tempered glass. but i ask you some question?
1. how many cc for loca glue on the screen?
2. what kind of loca glue? ( tp1000 , tp2500 , tp2500f)
3. Is it easy to remove tempered glass from phone after use loca glue?
hello.
I found new Nillkin product 3D AP+ Pro tempered glass. Unfortunately, pictures have only Chinese description, however it's easy to find glass is only 0.1mm thin.
http://nillkin.org/smartphones-acce...cessories/nillkin-samsung-galaxy-s8-3d-ap-pro
Did anybody try it?
wanlop40 said:
hello. i wait someone to post this theory about loca glue with normal tempered glass. but i ask you some question?
1. how many cc for loca glue on the screen?
2. what kind of loca glue? ( tp1000 , tp2500 , tp2500f)
3. Is it easy to remove tempered glass from phone after use loca glue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need less than 10cc absolutely,
One 10cc tube can do at least two installation
2500 should be good enough, its softer than 1000,
Removal is not that hard, but you need to slowly wipe away the dried/jellyfied loca
olegfusion said:
hello.
I found new Nillkin product 3D AP+ Pro tempered glass. Unfortunately, pictures have only Chinese description, however it's easy to find glass is only 0.1mm thin.
http://nillkin.org/smartphones-acce...cessories/nillkin-samsung-galaxy-s8-3d-ap-pro
Did anybody try it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also listed on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Nillkin-Edge-Full-Coverage-Oleophobic/dp/B071R7QYGY
Actually for this kind of project,
Any TG protector will do,
But i choose one that has color on the edge, since it will disguise if there's any micro bubble appear on the edge,
Even cheap $3 bucks glass will do,
I just did 2nd installation using those kind of glass,
Fit perfectly well
FAUguy said:
Also listed on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Nillkin-Edge-Full-Coverage-Oleophobic/dp/B071R7QYGY
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this is CP+ Max glass. I'm talking about AP+ Pro glass.
http://nillkin.org/smartphones-acce...cessories/nillkin-samsung-galaxy-s8-3d-ap-pro
check again
Take a closer look of the result from my video here :
https://www.instagram.com/p/BVmub7Mg5SD/
I am interested in giving this a try. From what it sounds like, you just put some adhesive on the glass, affix it to the screen, wipe away the excess, then cure it? How do you manage the glue around the speaker grill? I'm concerned the glue will gunk up the speaker.
vnamee said:
I am interested in giving this a try. From what it sounds like, you just put some adhesive on the glass, affix it to the screen, wipe away the excess, then cure it? How do you manage the glue around the speaker grill? I'm concerned the glue will gunk up the speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Put a paper tape on the speaker first. And remove it later,
Although, you can simply control the amount of LOCA you are using, so that there wont be too much excess that go near speaker.
If you accidentally gunk up your speaker, just use tooth brush, it will easily remove the dried up loca from the grill
olegfusion said:
No, this is CP+ Max glass. I'm talking about AP+ Pro glass.
http://nillkin.org/smartphones-acce...cessories/nillkin-samsung-galaxy-s8-3d-ap-pro
check again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's the difference between this both?
mydonose said:
What's the difference between this both?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AP should be thinner,
CP+ Max is still around 0.2-0.3mm
Wow..... is there any side effect, are there any leaked glue on the side/top/bottom ?
how is the sensitivity, i use Nillkin 3D CP+ Max Full Screen Glass Protector aswell, and the sensitivity on the top corner is horrible.
bakpau said:
Wow..... is there any side effect, are there any leaked glue on the side/top/bottom ?
how is the sensitivity, i use Nillkin 3D CP+ Max Full Screen Glass Protector aswell, and the sensitivity on the top corner is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Leaked glue was cleaned right away after installation
Sensitivity is perfect, since there's no air gap like what happen in most common tempered glass,
and although there's glue between the glass and screen, it's LOCA which designed and purposed for mostcof LCD-Touchscreen-Glass bonding, so it has almost 0 effect to sensitivity and light transmittance
And experience is much better compared to common rubber or tpu protector, since its glass
mydonose said:
What's the difference between this both?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
otonieru said:
AP should be thinner,
CP+ Max is still around 0.2-0.3mm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had found a YouTube video, and it was comparing the difference between the CP+ and AP+ screen protector for an iPhone, and the guy was saying th CP+ was better, but didn't really say why, or what the difference is.
EDIT:
I sent an email to the manufacturer got a response. The CP+ Max is Tempered Glass, the AP+ Pro is a PE Resen (flexible).
otonieru said:
This is purely for sharing purpose and proof of theory, if you decide to do it on your own, then its all your own risk
Since in my country, Whitestone Dome is not available, and i cant find any good similar product,
I decide to make it on my own,
i do smartphone repair on a daily basis, and i know how to use LOCA glue, and i had available tools around,
So i grab one Nillkin 3D CP+ Max Full Screen Glass Protector,
i put the LOCA glue on the screen, and apply the glass on top, let the glue spread evenly,
curing it using UV lamp, and....
Sorry i forgot to create video
Here's the result : Full Screen Tempered Glass With Full Adhesive :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm I personally wouldn't consider this full-screen coverage but how well it is working without a case (if you don't use a case)? Like is it peeling up at all?
moccor said:
Hmmm I personally wouldn't consider this full-screen coverage but how well it is working without a case (if you don't use a case)? Like is it peeling up at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No peeling up,
And i indeed, do not recommend to use case with this,
Since the glass is reaching the edge of the screen, most of case wont fit well
FAUguy said:
Also listed on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Nillkin-Edge-Full-Coverage-Oleophobic/dp/B071R7QYGY
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the CP+ Max in today. Removed the other screen protector that I had got last week:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHPMW98/
I didn't like that one since I could see the adhesive on the edges .
But the new screen protector is black all around, looks nice one, like you don't even have one installed. Still has the micro dots. Works with the two cases I have, EasyAcc and Diztronic.
Would a 3W UV torch be enough, or is 30W UV lamp necessary? And also, can you point me to the glue you used? I've been reading on the internet that theres some cheap loca that doesn't cure well...
Edit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011HY1QNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_nSGuzbFNNWDDM
this lamp comes with the whitestone dome glass, so i guess this works? any ideas?
Daax said:
Would a 3W UV torch be enough, or is 30W UV lamp necessary? And also, can you point me to the glue you used? I've been reading on the internet that theres some cheap loca that doesn't cure well...
Edit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011HY1QNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_nSGuzbFNNWDDM
this lamp comes with the whitestone dome glass, so i guess this works? any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3W or even 6W would be too small, it will takes too much time to cure
Am using 36W UV lamp box, the one which nirmally used for nail polish in beauty shop, it fully cure the glue in around 5-30 mins
This is amazon link : https://www.amazon.com/Salon-Edge-36W-Professional-Dryer/dp/B006QO4BRM
LOCA glue i used is mechanic brand. Quite popular among repair shop in my country, not sure that would be available in your country though,
Here's on alibaba : https://m.alibaba.com/product/60537...-glue-liquid-optical.html#show_specifications
I think as long as you are not using the shaddy cheap one, you should be okay.