Hi there,
i know (and i don´t want to do/change that) that zoom is not possible while capturing a 40 MP photo. What i am trying to configure is that my "normal" photos (so no zoom etc) are taken in 40 MP, but that i still have the option to switch to the other lenses in the normal screen and not within the options.
In other words: While just shooting photos (10mp mode) you have 4 options on the right. Wide angle lense, normal photo (1x), zoom 5x and zoom 10x. When switching to 40 MP these options disappear and if you want to zoom you first have to disable 40 mp in the camera options. Why is this so? Again, i understand that my zoom or wide angle does not support 40 MP, but wouldn´t it be possible for the camera app to automatically switch the resolution while switching the lenses? Am i missing something, is this option present and i just don´t know how to use it or can anyone explain why the app has to work this way?
I know that the 40 mp mode is also used in the 10 mp mode, because 4 pixels are beeing used to produce 1 pixel with better lightning and such. Also i see myself using the 10 mp 99% of the time, there are just some situations with very good light where i see myself thinking about "how about shooting it in 40 mp to be able to print it bigger".
Regards
I fully understand what you mean.
I think it is for the user who isn't so tech-savvy. If I were not a technical person and I selected the 40MP camera mode, then zoomed it (with it switching to 10MP as stated above) then I might get annoyed that it hasn't taken a 40MP image, as I asked of it. Now the more technically minded user will think "That's because it is using a different sensor", but the non-technically minded user will think they've been lied to and that their phone isn't capable of something it should be.
As such I imagine it is a design choice rather than anything.
There is no way, you need to switch back to 10MP
Related
Hello!
Once I first heard about the Lytro technology I thought it was very expensive for too few megapixels (1MP). Then the guys of DigitalOptics (the ones behind mems|cam) presented the first sensors with high megapixels and lytro-like effect. AFAIK the technology behind these sensors seems to be advanced, but the idea behind it is simply to shoot various frames with different focuses.
And then I asked myself: even if our sensors actually aren't fast enought to mimic DO ones, would it be possible for static subjects (or slow ones) to let the camera shoot a series of photos forcing the sensor to focus at a certain distance? I understand the effect wouldn't be the same, but we may set the application to focus, let's say, from 1 to 30 meters. The resulting photo-set would then be trimmed and rotated accordingly to fit the same area in all the photos (via an image recognition algorithm, similarly to what PhotoSphere does). The whole process may take more than a moment, but it would be pretty awesome.
Or better, to record a 30 FPS video forcing the focus onwards (30 frames = 30 different focal planes = 1 second to take the picture, setting starting and final focus just tapping on two objects before the shoot).
Then... would it be possible, from an API point of view, to force this behavior?
EDIT: oh sh**, I posted on the wrong forum (how did I even get here?)! Please move me here! Thanks
Helo everybody,
I am wondering if there is a way to lock F2.4 lens with 2x zoom no matter lighting conditions? I am so frustrated when we get digital zoom instead of 2x optical zoom because of bad (under 100 lux) in worse than optimal light. It's F2.4 optical stablised lens so why digital zoom? That sucks don't you think..?
honestly, you'll be surprised on how bad the tele lens in capturing light.
You can play with this. Go to live focus mode, turn the blur effect all the way down. This will force the tele lens to be used. Make sure dual capture is ON.
Now go to your gallery and find that pic, compare the picture in Close up Vs. Wide. You'll be surprised on the difference between the two lens.
What boggled me more is the fact that the tele lens is the one that they used for the Slomo mode. You would think that they would use the main lens with brighter aperture for something that requires soooo much light.
This is with AI turned off:
When you choose to use the 40m resolution in camera setting, it removes the ability to use the 20m wideangle camera.
Example, if i want to take a wideangle photo, i have to go into settings, set the camera to 10m and then "zoom" out to get the 20m(!) wideangle camera.
How is this logic?
did you notice when swithcing to the 10mp setting and want to switch back tovthe 40mp setting, the settting isnt there anymore?!? you have to close the app and swioe away in multitask menu
It's probably because the wide angle lens is the 20mp camera. The main one is 40mp.
D_ralh said:
It's probably because the wide angle lens is the 20mp camera. The main one is 40mp.
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I know, that but thats not the issue here.
One more time:
When you have the main camera on 10mp you get the ability to change to the 20mb wide angle camera. Using the slider on the right side.
But when you have the main camera on 40mb, you are no longer able to change to the wide angle camera. I understand why zoom is removed but not the switch to the wide angle camera wich is another camera anyway
Why is that?
Because with 40mp you are limited to one lens and one sensor. 10mp option utilizes all lenses and sensors as they have 40,20 and 8 MP accordingly, so 10MO is an interpolated resolution.
boober78 said:
Because with 40mp you are limited to one lens and one sensor. 10mp option utilizes all lenses and sensors as they have 40,20 and 8 MP accordingly, so 10MO is an interpolated resolution.
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But still, it should be a button to switch to make it easier. Or a wide angle option in the camera modes (night, portrait, pro, wide angle ect.)
Well, you have the button. It's called settings. Just leave it at default if you don't know how it works maybe ?
boober78 said:
Well, you have the button. It's called settings. Just leave it at default if you don't know how it works maybe
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No need to be rude here. Good for you if you are happy with 10 mp, but for us who wants to use the full potensial of the camera are stuck with a 4-step operation just to make the wide angle work.
That just seem unnecessary.
if you want to use the "full potential" of the camera you would leave it at 10MP and not put it to 40MP.... that's called making use of all available pixels.....
besides you'd be better off asking Huawei tech support about it instead of shooting down everyone else's answers and opinions here.............
me.... i'm more annoyed by the fact that 1080p60 video recording is weirdly zoomed.......
terkje said:
No need to be rude here. Good for you if you are happy with 10 mp, but for us who wants to use the full potensial of the camera are stuck with a 4-step operation just to make the wide angle work.
That just seem unnecessary.
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Nobody is being rude. It's good to have a perspective. And you are not stuck at 4 step operation. Just leave it as is. You won't have 40mp wide angle as there in no 40mp sensor with wide angle lens, hope that is clear by now.
chewdaniel said:
if you want to use the "full potential" of the camera you would leave it at 10MP and not put it to 40MP.... that's called making use of all available pixels.....
besides you'd be better off asking Huawei tech support about it instead of shooting down everyone else's answers and opinions here.............
me.... i'm more annoyed by the fact that 1080p60 video recording is weirdly zoomed.......
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Click to collapse
No. Full potential would be having the camera switch between the main 40mp lens, the 20mp wide angle and the 8mp zoom lens.
But the software does not give us this option unless you set the 40mp camera to 10 mp. Thats not making use of all available pixels.
boober78 said:
Nobody is being rude. It's good to have a perspective. And you are not stuck at 4 step operation. Just leave it as is. You won't have 40mp wide angle as there in no 40mp sensor with wide angle lens, hope that is clear by now.
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Please read the thread properly. I never said 40 mp wide angle:
"When you choose to use the 40m resolution in camera setting, it removes the ability to use the 20m wideangle camera. "
terkje said:
Please read the thread properly. I never said 40 mp wide angle:
"When you choose to use the 40m resolution in camera setting, it removes the ability to use the 20m wideangle camera. "
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I read it properly. And replied. When you use the 40 MP sensor you can use only 40MP sensor. Not wide angle, not zoom, but the main one. Hope that's understandable. When you choose 10MP resolution, you can use all three. Quite frankly for me. And most of the users. Just leave it. Really.
---------- Post added at 01:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:27 PM ----------
terkje said:
Please read the thread properly. I never said 40 mp wide angle:
"When you choose to use the 40m resolution in camera setting, it removes the ability to use the 20m wideangle camera. "
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I read it properly. And replied. When you use the 40 MP sensor you can use only 40MP sensor. Not wide angle, not zoom, but the main one. Hope that's understandable. When you choose 10MP resolution, you can use all three. Quite frankly for me. And most of the users. Just leave it. Really.
BTW, you don't loose anything. 20MP option was never there.
boober78 said:
Nobody is being rude. It's good to have a perspective. And you are not stuck at 4 step operation. Just leave it as is. You won't have 40mp wide angle as there in no 40mp sensor with wide angle lens, hope that is clear by now.
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Look up "snide" in the dictionary and find your name there buddy (see how I used the emoji to deflect any hostile response there?)
40mp option is there for a reason. When you have plenty of light and don't need pixel-binning to get a clean image, 40mp gives you way more flexibility when editing. Just because some people don't know how to use their phones to take a great photo without all the software helping doesn't mean others can't.
P.S.: There's a whole thread where people complain about what's wrong with the phone (and the OS). This probably belongs there too.
Itaintrite said:
Look up "snide" in the dictionary and find your name there buddy (see how I used the emoji to deflect any hostile response there?)
40mp option is there for a reason. When you have plenty of light and don't need pixel-binning to get a clean image, 40mp gives you way more flexibility when editing. Just because some people don't know how to use their phones to take a great photo without all the software helping doesn't mean others can't.
P.S.: There's a whole thread where people complain about what's wrong with the phone (and the OS). This probably belongs there too.
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Wow, what a response. Don't really understand what snide means do you? Emoji is there for a reason. The response was not hostile, but was given number of times, maybe the OP should post the problems in the thread you mention or report the issue to Huawei support? There is simply no solution for us to help the OP...
I'd rather have the max resolution for each lens in the camera to unleash the maximum quality of the taken picture... The Huawei Camera software is currently kinda stupid as it limits the potential to do any quick changes.
ms2010 said:
I'd rather have the max resolution for each lens in the camera to unleash the maximum quality of the taken picture... The Huawei Camera software is currently kinda stupid as it limits the potential to do any quick changes.
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If you know what you're doing, you don't need to quickly change modes. Just manage your settings throughout the day.
what about tasker or some app that makes a shortcut to the 40 mp setting. with this it should be one press to swtich between the modes? someone tried that?
Lol long story short, to answer the op. 40 MP is a lot right. The isp can only handle so much data. When you're in normal 10mp mode the isp is still using data from the other 2 camera. For example. When you're in the dark and you zoom in it will not use the tele lens because it can see that the image isn't good enough. When you're using the full 40 MP there's simply not enough head room to sample any frames from the other camera. It's not a bug or an issue. It's just a limitation of the hardware
merewood bebox said:
Lol long story short, to answer the op. 40 MP is a lot right. The isp can only handle so much data. When you're in normal 10mp mode the isp is still using data from the other 2 camera. For example. When you're in the dark and you zoom in it will not use the tele lens because it can see that the image isn't good enough. When you're using the full 40 MP there's simply not enough head room to sample any frames from the other camera. It's not a bug or an issue. It's just a limitation of the hardware
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This is not about zooming.
Short: I just want to be able to switch to the 20 mp wide angle camera when I have 40mp in the main camera.
Just a button replacing "go into settings > resolution > change to 10 mp > exit resolution > exit setting > zoom(!?) out"
I have suggested to Huawei to at least add a "wide angle" option you can download in "more" menu.
If you agree, let Huawei know and hopefully we will see a update on this.
As you probably already know, there is more than one way to take close-up pictures with your P30 Pro. You can use the dedicated Super Macro mode (found under More in your stock camera app) or manually set the focus to macro in Pro mode. However, two years of experience have taught me that by far the best way to take really crisp macro shots with my phone is not an obvious one. In fact, I bet you have never even tried it.
You see, our phone comes with 2 primary lenses, each with its own sensor. The main lens boasts a 40MP sensor, making it the default choice for your everyday shots, while the wide secondary lens has a 20MP sensor, which makes it sound a little underwhelming. However, when it comes to macro photography, the wide lens has one major advantage over its big brother - a much shorter minimum focus distance. This allows you to bring the lens much closer to your subject before the image becomes blurry. So to take superior close-up shots with your P30 Pro, all you have to do is switch to the wide lens by selecting the Wide picture mode in the camera app. You can combine this with the dedicated HDR mode (found under More in your stock camera app) to eliminate any unwanted shadows. However, be aware that at such close proximity to the subject the autofocus can no longer be relied on. So manual focusing is strongly recommended.
Below are some sample pictures taken by each lens at their minimum focus distance.
40MP Primary Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/61kjmDQ
40MP Primary Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/ftpmCnx
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/f4J7rCD
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/dktkjqH
As you can see, the wide lens was able to capture far superior detail at minimum focusing distance compared to the 40MP shot. In real life application this means less cropping and more pictures like these:
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
https://ibb.co/1TtJHyz
https://ibb.co/Qb8PfNh
Have fun with your Macro shots!
That's really informative, and the difference in detail in your pics is quite stark. I'll try your suggestions for myself.
Thanks
That last pic is stunning!
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
All the colours are different between those two pics, not just the flower. What does post-processing involve?
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
poulos971 said:
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do enjoy playing with RAW. However, as I only ever post my pictures on social media where their quality gets butchered by the site's own compression engine, I find it difficult to justify the time investment in RAW editing. So I stick to JPEG format in Pro mode with master AI disabled.
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
tonybhoy said:
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
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You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
koi8ru said:
You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
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i just went to photo mode and slid slider down to wide,never went to pro
koi8ru said:
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, amazing picture ! :good:
Yeah editing takes some time indeed, but I really think it's worth it
guys, go see my page, i have a lot of photos taken by my P30 Pro. You will see a lot of macro photography
My name on instagram is Titibenze
poulos971 said:
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
Leoxur said:
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
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Click to collapse
Yes, the RAW file will always be a full resolution picture (i. e. 40mp using the main camera, 20mp on the ultrawide and 8mp on the telephoto).
To avoid noise, you must shoot at the lowest possible ISO setting ! It also depends on the sensor used (as the main one is bigger, it produces less noisy pictures than the ultrawide / telephoto).
This example picture was shot in 1/500s at 50 ISO using the ultrawide camera.
ok the pixel6 has three cameras. the front camera is self explanatory. but the stock camera app is very lacking in into.
1. what is the picture spec of "medium" photo resolution vs "full"
2. why would i want to switch between the two back cameras and how do i do that?
3. there are 5 things on the back camera block, what are they in order from left to right?
4. what is .7 vs 1x vs 2x? is it optical zoom or digital zoom? and how do they get .7 zoom? shouldn't .7 be 1x and the others adapted .
and no googling for answers did not revel any info.
all anyone seems to want to talk about is the software picture tweaks not the hardware and how you can use it,
I can take pictures of squirrels (Tree rats) with the Google camera app.
And Opossums with the night vision.
Just add, I believe you need to have a Google account to access all of the cameras app features.
Imo, these questions are easily answered by most reviews. Here's a review that tells you a lot about the camera.
pixel 6 specs
1. Medium vs full is going to be the amount of compression used. I don't know why you wouldn't ever use full.
2. You have to switch between cameras if you want different zoom since they use fixed focal length lenses. One is .7x and the other is x1.
3. Left sensor is the 50MP (x1) sensor, next is the x7 sensor, next is the laser auto focus sensor, and then the flash and I believe a microphone is above the flash. Just use your finger to cover one of the cameras if you don't believe me.
4. The main camera is used for x1, that's a 50mp sensor that uses 4->1 binning so it produces 12.5MP images. The .7x is just uses a more zoomed out focal length than the main sensor (lower quality sensor too). x2 is digital zoom on the main x1 sensor.
Gibsonflyingv said:
Imo, these questions are easily answered by most reviews. Here's a review that tells you a lot about the camera.
pixel 6 specs
1. Medium vs full is going to be the amount of compression used. I don't know why you wouldn't ever use full.
2. You have to switch between cameras if you want different zoom since they use fixed focal length lenses. One is .7x and the other is x1.
3. Left sensor is the 50MP (x1) sensor, next is the x7 sensor, next is the laser auto focus sensor, and then the flash and I believe a microphone is above the flash. Just use your finger to cover one of the cameras if you don't believe me.
4. The main camera is used for x1, that's a 50mp sensor that uses 4->1 binning so it produces 12.5MP images. The .7x is just uses a more zoomed out focal length than the main sensor (lower quality sensor too). x2 is digital zoom on the main x1 sensor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And if you think that is Kool.
Try using an Endoscope camera with the P6.
It really worked well for me trying to see up inside the dash of a classic car. (86 Monte)