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i know the TV out isto 3 phono, and can display in Pal or NTSC but it would be useful if there is a VGA one or a good way to do it,
any ideas
monkeyturnip said:
i know the TV out isto 3 phono, and can display in Pal or NTSC but it would be useful if there is a VGA one or a good way to do it,
any ideas
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Click to collapse
Search for these kind of cables:
http://www.nextag.com/Cables-to-Go-25FT-61235427/prices-html?nxtg=28c70a1c052e-34FA18FCC0551E95
RGB to VGA
monkeyturnip said:
i know the TV out isto 3 phono, and can display in Pal or NTSC but it would be useful if there is a VGA one or a good way to do it,
any ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm with you. I wanted to use a PC monitor for Remote Desktop control of a couple of PCs and servers with the TP2 (as I do with the Athena). Using the TP video out and converter cables will have the cables outweigh the phone by a factor of about 2 to 1.
I believe the output on the Blackstone is composite, not component in which case I don't think that would work.
Although you can get active converters to convert composite video to VGA/RGBHV, there will be a considerable loss of quality, especially in the fine detail. Basically, it will look very blurry.
There's plenty of them on Ebay, search for EXTUSB video , or "Touch pro video"
Yep, bought one of those composite/VGA converter boxes and can definitely confirm the loss of quality/bluriness. Also too bulky to carry around conveniently and requires a power supply. Hooked my Archos up yesterday (TP2 arrived today...!) just to remind myself, as it has the same screen res and also outputs via composite and apart from it being blurry, the image also flickers, which is quite annoying. Hadn't really noticed it before, cause it's not that noticable when watching video, but when viewing text or a presentation, that would be seriously off-putting! May just be my converter box, but thinking about the conversions the signal has to go through, I can't belive other converters are going to be much better.
BO$$
"Reqiures powersupply" ?
I cannot remeber that I used power supply with it, but yes, it does have a power-supply connector to allow charging while using tv-out.
Appologies, I was posting without properly referencing the post I was replying to.
I was relpying to crypticalpha's post, regarding composite to VGA converters. My converter box requires a powersupply in order to output a picture on the monitor/projector, else you can only get sound.
Since I have not yet held my TP2 in my hands, nor owned the TP1, I cannot comment on its TV out functionality.
I had assumed the phone itself would not be required to be connected to a power source, but it is actually good to hear that confirmed!
Kind Regards
BO$$
i think this one does work. and its cheap aswell
http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=130310497614
I bought a HTC adaptor for charging & 3.5 headphones etc. Then I thought I'd be clever and save money and use a Nokia N95 TV out cable, but when I plug it in the TP2 sees it as Headphones.
Any ideas of how to get it working?
daveke0201 said:
i think this one does work. and its cheap aswell
http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=130310497614
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Click to collapse
I can vouch for this being a good, cheap TV out cable; I bought it and it works well - the USB and 3.5mm jacks also work so you can plug a secondary sound source in or charge / sync it as well as using the TV out functionality.
One 'problem' though: using Core Player without the TV cable, the video playback is smooth as a baby's bum: with the TV out cable, it's slightly choppy. Is this to be expected or does anyone know how to improve video playback through TV cable? If so, it makes a great solution to travelling and being able to bring good TV and films with you on the phone!
Are there retail component cables available for TV out on an HTC device? If there aren't, is there a work around/DIY solution?VGA/S-Video/possibly HDMI....ANY ideas/ contributions are appreciated!
Seems to me it is a software issue and a cable one. The device can only put out NTSC/PAL. Composite video only requires one wire. Component would need 3. Where would the extra pins come from (in the USB connector)?
Wouldnt higher quality S-video still be possible though?
Not sure if this will work for you guys, but I used the multi-adapter that came with my Touch Pro2 and a 3.5mm jack to composite cable to get TV out from my TP2. Basically, it was a cable that came with my camcorder. I had to remove/cut the blue wire inside the multi-adapter to get it to work. It works automatically without additional software. I found the information from another poster at PPCGeeks.com. I would have provided a link, but since I'm a noob, this site would not allow me. Good luck. Hope this information helps.
Mossesman said:
Not sure if this will work for you guys, but I used the multi-adapter that came with my Touch Pro2 and a 3.5mm jack to composite cable to get TV out from my TP2. Basically, it was a cable that came with my camcorder. I had to remove/cut the blue wire inside the multi-adapter to get it to work. It works automatically without additional software. I found the information from another poster at PPCGeeks.com. I would have provided a link, but since I'm a noob, this site would not allow me. Good luck. Hope this information helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your response and yes this does work as I have been using this solution for about two months now and it's "okay" at best...I am still looking for something that would enable at least a "clean" 480p picture with every pixel cleanly represented without all the noise of the composite cables....
I am planning on getting a tv out cable from the following website as soon as my TP2 arrives (hopefully on tuesday):
http://shop.lab88.co.za/pL88OL-61/HTC-TV-Out-for-Pro--Pro-2.aspx
The cable sells for R188.00 approx. $25.00
They are the official importers of HTC devices in my country and their prices are very reasonable.
try sparkfun.com and search for 'extusb'. if you are feeling adventurous like me then go for the cheap one (style 1) otherwise go for the one with the breakout board. either way, its good fun but be prepared for anything. you should have a bit of knowledge on how to solder though. tried it myself and it worked but with all the bare wires hanging out of the video cable it's in a box somewhere in the garage, lol.
sorry about my lack of using the shift key, hehe
boxy
BASSMANBOB said:
Thanks for your response and yes this does work as I have been using this solution for about two months now and it's "okay" at best...I am still looking for something that would enable at least a "clean" 480p picture with every pixel cleanly represented without all the noise of the composite cables....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if that is possible since the output of the device is not digital. And even with a USB to composite cable, the data will still be in analog. Good luck with your search and please provide an update if you find anything. Thanks.
Im thinking "S-Video" would be achievable, no? Anyone have thoughts?
If you google for "composite-to-s-video" you get lots of little adapters for under $10, so it can obviously be done, but I doubt the video quality can improve. You also see decoders that cost $150.
If you look at the product description here
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-SVC2-Jack-S-Video-Converter/dp/B0002KR7G8
it actually says the quality won't be better than the original composite.
It's a huge sight, but it is a better question to research over here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/
I think component PAL output is created through hardware, as running video at the absolute highest quality without dropping frames still runs perfect(on the phone) when i click in the video output. if this was done in software then it would slow down the video.(tested with fast moving scenes at really high h264 bitrates in full res so it would be noticable)
The only way i can see it working is if you "somehow" send the screen output over a normal usb connection to an external device which then created the composit output. This would have to be done in software which would be slow and inefficent if it would even be possible at all. If your trying to say... play video at a higher quality then PAL along with software running in the background outputting to said device... well yeah it just wont happen.
What exactly are u trying to do? if its something other then video like presentation u might be able to set up a webserver on the phone(pretty sure there is already software to do this) and take screenshots(software to do this too) and generate webpages in a higher quality that u can see on a computer ect that can plug into a TV
BASSMANBOB said:
Im thinking "S-Video" would be achievable, no? Anyone have thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it definatly could, get the av to svid adapter from radio shack or somewhere
This is a recurring problem i keep having across android phones and I'm trying to find some kind of solution ....
Ive got a few different car stereos, they all allow usb mass storage mounting to directly read/play songs from the phone.
They all require the same basic things: they expect to see a fat32 partition, they load the first and only the first partition that they can see, and they load every "media" file in the drive, including the nav turn by turn cache, etc.
Im hoping someone can write a program similar to "multi mount sd card" that basically allows you to choose a particular folder where you know all of your music, and only your music, is stored, and present that single folder to the car stereo as a good old fashioned mass storage device with a fat32 partition. Theoretically, id hope to leave the rest of the storage access able to the other programs on the phone, the only thing that would be affected maybe is the music player....which i wouldn't be using. I have different kinds of problems with getting this to work across different phones, an app like this could fix them all at once.
Ive got a lot of different tech experience e but im not a dev by any stretch. Ive tried a lot and my current issue is card order, stereo is seeing the internal card but my music is on external and it refuses to look past the first partition.
Anyone got any ideas? Ive got a razr (vzw) on the 215 leak.
Just wondering, I have a few decks in my cars and trucks also... Why do you plug your phone into the deck? I just recently got a Pioneer deh-6400bt for 149$ that allows me to seamlessly use Bluetooth to play music and also to talk with for hands free since its technically illegal to talk on the phone in Oregon....gr... anyways, And another point almost all decks that I have used, kenwood, alpine, pioneer, don't push enough power through the USB to make it worth your while to plug your phone in while using it. And all of those decks that had USB input also had a AUX input in the front.
he probably wants to use the deck to control the music, which can't be done with the aux cable
That is true... Have to tell you though.. BT is the shizzz though.. get in your rig and start it up... connects to phone and continues streaming where it left off and having the hands free is awesome
1. I actually have the pioneer deh-p6200bt in one of my cars - and it doesn't stream bluetooth audio, only phone functions. My other vehicle has a deck which can stream BT audio, and it's great for some things, like pandora, but with my internal music collection the audio quality is just not up to par, it's an obvious weak link.
2. The USB port charges at standard USB rates. It isn't a quick charge but it's certainly enough to make things worthwhile. I've found that on extended, 6-10 hour drives, running pandora, wifi tether, nav, torque and leaving the screen on constantly, yes, it can discharge to the point where it shuts off. I was running this configuration while driving for a touring band once. More often, however, I'm not using everything at once, and i turn the screen off just because I don't always need it. It seems that I can run pandora, nav, torque, and have the phone still actually charge, it was serving wifi tether to the rest of the van that caused the phone to go over the edge and actually pull more power than it wAas getting in. Moreover, the bigger problem I wind up having is that phones will actually stop charging themselves from overheating (sun heat through windshield, and/or just to much load on the phones systems at once), at which point the amperage is irrelevant. In fact this may have been the ONLY problem I was having, while driving I couldn't pay enough attention to the phone to figure out much other than "oh hell it shut off cause its cooking itself".
3. Yes, I want control over tracks from front of deck, and USB is THE most complete way to do that, especially in the one car I have where i have steering wheel controls. I can search for specific tracks from the wheel, as well as call up any phone functions, which is more than the BT side would be able to do - in BT audio mode my systems seem to only be able to start/pause and track forward/reverse. Having hardware buttons that handle both phone and music leaves the screen of the device free for torque or maps.
4. On the audio quality note, if you're playing digital files stored on the device, nothing beats using the stereo to play them via USB, because the deck itself is the actual computer doing the conversion and the D/A converters in the deck should theoretically be nicer than anything in a cell phone. Its the cleanest path one could have.
For things like pandora, this isn't always possible, and in that case the next best option would be a toss up between BT and the 3.5mm jack, based on your ears which is cleaner. in absolutely ideal scenarios, where BT on the deck supports the more recent high quality a2dp codecs, BT can sound as good or better than the cable. A2DP audio isn't exactly this clear cut though, as the blanket of A2DP doesn't specify which codecs are supported, and the better ones are a more recent thing. I'll say that the cell phones have been good about this, it's more that the decks themselves don't always have the newer codecs. And in addition to that, there's still the matter of settings within either device, such at bitpool on the phone, that can have an effect on the sound. Unfortunately, my setup is such that only one deck I have does actual BT streaming, and while nice for some things definitely doesn't sound as good as when it is cabled or using USB directly.
The cable has the disadvantage of running through multiple conversions - the phone goes from D to A through it's own, lower quality converter, the stereo gets that signal as A, changes it to D in order to apply EQ/etc, then back to A as it goes down to the amps. It's generally unnecessary to do something like this if one can avoid it.
There is a third option, but this is very rare and just sort of coming to market - if you happen to have an in car video system with an HDMI input, it will send the streaming audio info as a pure digital signal and as with USB the radios D/A converters will be the units making the actual sound and thus being just as clean. An example of a unit like this is the Pioneer SPh-da100 (I could be wrong on model number), AKA the "appradio2". These are rare, and the least expensive version of this I've found is around 300-350 bucks. One thing I don't like about the appradio is that it seems to have only 2 sets of preamp outs....other than that, it looks like an amazing solution for at least one of my problems!
Basically.... sorry about the confused ramblings. I'm still trying to figure this out. The funny thing is - the phone presents the two storages, internal and external, and both of my radios make the connection - however one radio, a Dual unit, actually sees the external partition first and works fine, while the pioneer radio actually sees the internal first and it gives me nothing! the third vehicle I have, I actually am just using the 3.5mm in for sheer simplicity, it's an old crappy car that has no use for such a nice setup and the moto car dock with the combo usb/audio cable is actually a perfect fit for it. For the other cars, the moto car dock actually sucks, because it won't pass USB data, but that's another issue for another thread. Most likely I'm gonna gut it's frame and insert a straight through USB data cable for it.......
But I still need some way to make the phone consistently present the right info, all the time, every time!
Bump......
Anyone? Theres got to be someone else out there as frustrated by this as I am.....
Well, you're not the only one. I've running a Kenwood deck, on my Razr prior to the ICS update, I got it to work every time, since then...it's like rolling a die and trying to get lucky 7. Something in the update must have disabled the order of recognition of partitions coming up. I was able to get it to work...*once*. I've read that leaving dev/debug mode on some devices cause enough of a timing delay to let the deck recognize the sdcard, but this didn't work for me. There's actually a kenwood app that's supposed to help with all this but of course for me it does nothing. You might want to try the debug mode thing - I've read for some people that worked. I just want a way to configure the phone to *only* mount the sdcard drive when setup as a usb mass storage device. I'm assuming this is the problem, the internal storage confusing the deck.
It's been very frustrating...
I posted these questions in AT/T forum but got no answer probs due to lack of consumers actually using the official adaptor, so would love to ask u guys here since im really aiming at using the cable for presentations etc (and spent 50 dollars on it);
1) How do i fix the borders cut off in landscape mode when connected to TV?? If u look at youtube videos every user regardless of TVs have the screen bit cut off even thou phone's resolution is 16:9 720p?
2) Why does it display in 1080p not 720p (screen on galaxy s3 is 720p)? (my laptop using same hdmi cable without adaptor shows as 720p on TV) id like to be able to adjust it
3) My galaxy s3 heats up to 55 Celsius when playing with the phone and mirroring games. Is this normal? (although my alienware laptop heats up same also when connected to TV)
4) There is a abit of a lag between TV and a phone, the phone also seems to lag more when connected to TV (my laptop doesnt experience this)
Bump
Most TVs default mode is to cut off the borders, I find that odd with HDTV because it's digitial. With the analog TVs they would cut off a little border because the edges of the signal weren't always of the best quality, and it makes the picture look a little "bigger" too. On my Samsung TV there is a "P.Size" button (picture size I presume), and I push that until "screen fit" comes up, which shows the full image. On other TVs I've heard using the HDMI port labeled for PC/laptops will come by default setup to not cut the borders, if it's not labeled that way it's normally the port that shares or is right next to the DVI port.
I have the 1080p display issue with the horrible lag as you've seen. If you come across a solution let me know, because it drives me nuts and some games are basically unplayable which is one of the major reasons I got my MHL adapter. For videos and web it works well enough, since a video isn't interactive you don't notice the delay.
The heating up is probably normal, a phone a very dense compared to a PC and doesn't have fans like a PC has, and I bet the display cloning and charging takes up a bit of power.
Just got my new sammy tv with mhl support and more stuff, but have the same problem as you guys. Choppy playback at 1080p30, that really sucks. It shall be at 1080p60. I will give it a try with the other 2 hdmi slots, maybe it will work then. If not, I'm screwed and have to sell my hdmi-mhl-adaptor -.-'''
Really not cool and I cant explain it to myself, why it shouldnt work ((
alexx910 said:
Just got my new sammy tv with mhl support and more stuff, but have the same problem as you guys. Choppy playback at 1080p30, that really sucks. It shall be at 1080p60. I will give it a try with the other 2 hdmi slots, maybe it will work then. If not, I'm screwed and have to sell my hdmi-mhl-adaptor -.-'''
Really not cool and I cant explain it to myself, why it shouldnt work ((
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems max output is 1080p30, yet the phone is really nice and smooth on a tv with 720p or 1080i, as it's 60hz. Really annoying that there aren't any settings for the HDMI output to simply select an output resolution!
How many others still using their G5 as a daily driver?
I am since 2016 (h850) and using the latest available Lineage 18.1 (Android 11)
Using Proshot & open camera apps, although the camera quality is far behind whats available now but it still works and get decent images.
My GPS hasn't worled for a long time.
My vibration motor doesn't work, but thats ok.
The touch sensor doesnt work, I think thats because of LOS.
I'm using a modded samsung battery
I'm on my second display (replacement is an original LG part)
LOS is laggy sometimes, especially when turning on Wifi after a while then all apps seem to want to download their data, the phone becomes unresponsive.
Takes a minute to be stable. Other than that, cba and can't afford a new phone so still using as a daily driver.
Any better camera apps or further recommended tweaks?
Hi i want use my LG G5 h850 but i have miss the date to unlock it.
so i cant use it while the bootloader ist lockt and the LG System is over and i lost my unlock key
I'm still using my LG G5 H830. I have LineageOS on it which does not support VoLTE, now required for use on T-Mobile;s network.
I bought a new H830 (v7.0.0) off eBay and my plan this week is to root it, install recovery, upgrade to stock v8.0 Android then migrate everything to this phone.
@davestuarts , I recommend you buy a new H850 off eBay and migrate everything like I'm doing.
davestuarts said:
How many others still using their G5 as a daily driver?
I am since 2016 (h850) and using the latest available Lineage 18.1 (Android 11)
Using Proshot & open camera apps, although the camera quality is far behind whats available now but it still works and get decent images.
My GPS hasn't worled for a long time.
My vibration motor doesn't work, but thats ok.
The touch sensor doesnt work, I think thats because of LOS.
I'm using a modded samsung battery
I'm on my second display (replacement is an original LG part)
LOS is laggy sometimes, especially when turning on Wifi after a while then all apps seem to want to download their data, the phone becomes unresponsive.
Takes a minute to be stable. Other than that, cba and can't afford a new phone so still using as a daily driver.
Any better camera apps or further recommended tweaks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I gave up some months ago using the G5 as the chin started to randomly fail and not let me charge the phone. While I was using it I replaced two batteries, repaired multiple times the fingerprint sensor connectors on the motherboard and replaced the camera glass. Vibration motor started to fail too (squeaking instead of vibrating, I think I killed it playing Hooked On: COTD on the EKA2L1 emulator), and of course GPS was, and always had been, just barely working.
Despite all this, it was a great phone, especially shooting photos in RAW format: if you want to spend a minute or two to improve the photos you take, Adobe Lightroom for Android is the best software to make any decent picture taken with the G5 look as good as if it was shot on an iPhone.
In my opinion, by the way, the stock LG camera app is better than the other third party cameras, with only Google Camera being better in some occasions, albeit a bit buggy on the G5: on Celso Azevedo's website you can find all the modded Google Camera versions, with precompiled settings for the G5 too.
The last month I used it I switched from the stock Oreo ROM to a LineageOS-based one (DotOS, if I recall correctly), and it became surprisingly faster, even tough that meant sacrificing the FM radio and the IR remote.
Now I'm considering to buy an HDMI adapter and use the G5 as an Android tv box, if the chin proves to be reliable enough to keep the phone charged while it is sitting behind the TV.
tremalnaik said:
Hi,
I gave up some months ago using the G5 as the chin started to randomly fail and not let me charge the phone. While I was using it I replaced two batteries, repaired multiple times the fingerprint sensor connectors on the motherboard and replaced the camera glass. Vibration motor started to fail too (squeaking instead of vibrating, I think I killed it playing Hooked On: COTD on the EKA2L1 emulator), and of course GPS was, and always had been, just barely working.
Despite all this, it was a great phone, especially shooting photos in RAW format: if you want to spend a minute or two to improve the photos you take, Adobe Lightroom for Android is the best software to make any decent picture taken with the G5 look as good as if it was shot on an iPhone.
In my opinion, by the way, the stock LG camera app is better than the other third party cameras, with only Google Camera being better in some occasions, albeit a bit buggy on the G5: on Celso Azevedo's website you can find all the modded Google Camera versions, with precompiled settings for the G5 too.
The last month I used it I switched from the stock Oreo ROM to a LineageOS-based one (DotOS, if I recall correctly), and it became surprisingly faster, even tough that meant sacrificing the FM radio and the IR remote.
Now I'm considering to buy an HDMI adapter and use the G5 as an Android tv box, if the chin proves to be reliable enough to keep the phone charged while it is sitting behind the TV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, thanks for your input, very thorough, appreciate it. I'm pretty much in the same camp as you, although mine does charge though it's chin is a bit loose. I've got a back case on, which is tight and helps keep the phone together, kind of a cheat method.
I'm only using as I cannot currently afford to buy something new, and want something with a decent camera but with LOS support too or rootable. I have been looking at some used Pixel phones, but its about price.
Anyway, I was happy with proshot app, as I like photograpy and it gives great manual control and decent pics but seeing how newer phones are so much better, I have recently gone back to trying gcam (previously it would crash often), which you mentioned.
Playing around with v8.6 and it works suprisingly well and produces some really great photos better than proshot, although slow at times, especially the processing time.
v.8.7 worked but even slower with some features kept crashing it.
I'll have a go at lightroom, never thought about it before. Thanks.
Incidentally, what phone you got next? Also, great idea to repurpose G5 as android TV.
Have you got that running and if so, what rom is usable, especially to have HDMI out and does charging work at the same time?
After the G5 I got an Asus Zenfone 8: small, powerful processor, OLED screen, 3.5mm audio port and easily rootable. It's not a cheap phone, but I was lucky enough to find one used for 390€ (spending more than 400€ for a phone is unreasonable for what I use it for).
To repurpose the G5 as a media center, I will go back to the stock Oreo ROM, as DotOs (and I suppose all the LineageOs-based ROMs) doesn't support the HDMI out.
I've bought a Choetech xch-m180 4K Usb-C HDMI adapter, that "should" (I'll believe when I see it, but I've seen videos of it working as expected) be capable of 4K output and battery charging. I already have a USB-C to HDMI adapter, but without battery charging, and the phone lasts less than one hour, so permanent installation is impossible with that one.
Then I'll install a media center like Kodi (if it can be controlled using another phone via Bluetooth or WiFi) and Tasker to shut down the phone's screen without locking it.
The hardest part of the setup will probably be dealing with the restrictions that each app imposes on phones with root or HDMI output.
tremalnaik said:
After the G5 I got an Asus Zenfone 8: small, powerful processor, OLED screen, 3.5mm audio port and easily rootable. It's not a cheap phone, but I was lucky enough to find one used for 390€ (spending more than 400€ for a phone is unreasonable for what I use it for).
To repurpose the G5 as a media center, I will go back to the stock Oreo ROM, as DotOs (and I suppose all the LineageOs-based ROMs) doesn't support the HDMI out.
I've bought a Choetech xch-m180 4K Usb-C HDMI adapter, that "should" (I'll believe when I see it, but I've seen videos of it working as expected) be capable of 4K output and battery charging. I already have a USB-C to HDMI adapter, but without battery charging, and the phone lasts less than one hour, so permanent installation is impossible with that one.
Then I'll install a media center like Kodi (if it can be controlled using another phone via Bluetooth or WiFi) and Tasker to shut down the phone's screen without locking it.
The hardest part of the setup will probably be dealing with the restrictions that each app imposes on phones with root or HDMI output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the update. That Zenfone seems great value for what it has, especially with an OLED and 3.5mm, which I need, you've got it at a great price. In the Uk it's much more £600/€680 and very hard to find it used/refurbished, I can get a Sony Xperia IV for less, refurbushed and 12 months warranty but still too much for me.
Thanks for the other info too. I'll be interested to know how your G5 android project works out.
@tremalnaik Well, I bit took the plunge and found a good deal on a Xperia 5IV.
Brings back memories of my xperia Z3 compact, which I still have, used as a shared media/internet with lineage 18.1.
This new Xperia 5IV wioth its long slab design is so different but very usable.
Superb cameras, especially with their camera styled apps.
I can even use Gcam for better night shots.
Plus the needed 3.5mm jack AND Sdcard slot.
Hopefully, in a few years lineage will be available on, but unlikely to be a popular device due to cost though a great device for them to port one over with all it's extras.
Now, need to repurpose the G5, after I've transfered everyhig over and my phonbe cover arrives. I dont know why companies make such expensive/slipper styled backs, as so mnay people put on covers. Or just make the back more durable.
davestuarts said:
@tremalnaik Well, I bit took the plunge and found a good deal on a Xperia 5IV.
Brings back memories of my xperia Z3 compact, which I still have, used as a shared media/internet with lineage 18.1.
This new Xperia 5IV wioth its long slab design is so different but very usable.
Superb cameras, especially with their camera styled apps.
I can even use Gcam for better night shots.
Plus the needed 3.5mm jack AND Sdcard slot.
Hopefully, in a few years lineage will be available on, but unlikely to be a popular device due to cost though a great device for them to port one over with all it's extras.
Now, need to repurpose the G5, after I've transfered everyhig over and my phonbe cover arrives. I dont know why companies make such expensive/slipper styled backs, as so mnay people put on covers. Or just make the back more durable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish I found a good deal for an Xperia phone as well: it was my first choice, but any Sony device is really expensive here in Italy.
3.5mm jack is a must for me too, especially when it's the only way to listen music on a 14 years old car.
I wouldn't put much hope on Lineage for future upgrades though: while the developers take an honourable effort in keeping old phones up to date, most of the times any extra hardware feature of the phone will be hard to implement. If you take the G5 as an example, in 7 years nobody found a way to make the IR blaster or the FM radio to work, and neither VoLTE, HDMI, etc. due to the lack of documentation on how these functions are integrated in Android.
Going back to your previous post, I finally received the HDMI adapter and it works like a charm. Here's what I had to do to make it work:
-Connect the adapter to the tv, to the phone, and to a suitable USB plug (for some reason if I connected the USB power plug to the USB port on the tv, the adapter glitched, so I had to connect it to the router's USB port)
-Change the DPI settings to make the phone think it's running on a large screen
-Dowload a tv launcher: I found Simple TV Launcher to be simple and reliable
-Download TV version of the apps you need: Aurora Store has a convenient spoofing feature so I chose to make the phone appear like it's a Sony Bravia TV to download TV apps
-Download an app to control the phone usimg another phone as a remote. "Bluetooth keyboard & mouse" would be the best, if only Bluetooth wasn't a totally unreliable technology (out of three phones I tried to use as remotes, 2 had terrible lags, and another one wasn't able to connect at all). So my next choice was Zank Remote: not as good for non-tv apps, but as it works through wi-fi, it actually works. It can even be used like a rudimental wiimote to point at the screen.
-as I don't want to see ads on Youtube and I'm too lazy to try to compile ReVanced Youtube, I went for NewPipe: it's definitely not optimised to work on TVs, but it works.
So far I've only tested it with RaiPlay (national TV's online platform) and it works really well. My phone is rooted and I don't have any other movie platform subscription, so I don't know if this setup could work with Amazon Prime or Netflix. By the way I could test it with AceStream (the primary reason I wanted to make this setup, so I don't have to turn on the pc and stream from VLC to the Blu-Ray player connected to my not-so-smart TV), and it works flawlessly.
The hardest part of the whole setup is to shut down the backlight of the G5's screen while HDMI is connected: I had to use a shell script and automate it with Tasker. Still I haven't found a way to stop the HDMI out if the phone is locked, to save energy: if I lock the phone, the adapter will actively output a black screen to the TV, so it's likely wasting energy for nothing.
tremalnaik said:
I wish I found a good deal for an Xperia phone as well: it was my first choice, but any Sony device is really expensive here in Italy.
3.5mm jack is a must for me too, especially when it's the only way to listen music on a 14 years old car.
I wouldn't put much hope on Lineage for future upgrades though: while the developers take an honourable effort in keeping old phones up to date, most of the times any extra hardware feature of the phone will be hard to implement. If you take the G5 as an example, in 7 years nobody found a way to make the IR blaster or the FM radio to work, and neither VoLTE, HDMI, etc. due to the lack of documentation on how these functions are integrated in Android.
Going back to your previous post, I finally received the HDMI adapter and it works like a charm. Here's what I had to do to make it work:
-Connect the adapter to the tv, to the phone, and to a suitable USB plug (for some reason if I connected the USB power plug to the USB port on the tv, the adapter glitched, so I had to connect it to the router's USB port)
-Change the DPI settings to make the phone think it's running on a large screen
-Dowload a tv launcher: I found Simple TV Launcher to be simple and reliable
-Download TV version of the apps you need: Aurora Store has a convenient spoofing feature so I chose to make the phone appear like it's a Sony Bravia TV to download TV apps
-Download an app to control the phone usimg another phone as a remote. "Bluetooth keyboard & mouse" would be the best, if only Bluetooth wasn't a totally unreliable technology (out of three phones I tried to use as remotes, 2 had terrible lags, and another one wasn't able to connect at all). So my next choice was Zank Remote: not as good for non-tv apps, but as it works through wi-fi, it actually works. It can even be used like a rudimental wiimote to point at the screen.
-as I don't want to see ads on Youtube and I'm too lazy to try to compile ReVanced Youtube, I went for NewPipe: it's definitely not optimised to work on TVs, but it works.
So far I've only tested it with RaiPlay (national TV's online platform) and it works really well. My phone is rooted and I don't have any other movie platform subscription, so I don't know if this setup could work with Amazon Prime or Netflix. By the way I could test it with AceStream (the primary reason I wanted to make this setup, so I don't have to turn on the pc and stream from VLC to the Blu-Ray player connected to my not-so-smart TV), and it works flawlessly.
The hardest part of the whole setup is to shut down the backlight of the G5's screen while HDMI is connected: I had to use a shell script and automate it with Tasker. Still I haven't found a way to stop the HDMI out if the phone is locked, to save energy: if I lock the phone, the adapter will actively output a black screen to the TV, so it's likely wasting energy for nothing.
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Sorry, thought I had replied to your last message. Yeah, got lucky with the Sony, they're expensive in UK too. Last few years with the corrupt goverment and brexit has caused all prices to jump, only rich or corrupt exist easily.
You're right about Lineage or other custom rom being available for the Sony, as you said, they never figured out the IR blaster for the G5, theres always hope tho ha.
I've been trying to use the G5 as a android box but my issue is the battery drain. Its the old battery and the HDMI dongle with the charging port cannot sustain the battery with screen on, so it dies and also it gets quite hot.
I've been looking at apps or scripts to turn off screen while using, but cannot find anything yet. Theres an app on my Sony phone thats for gaming, it allows the charger to be plugged in, but not charge the battery instead it simply powers the phone, so it dont get hot and you can game for longer. I need an app like that.
My other option now is to take appart the phone, connect a third party battery which is big, like 5000mah and just leave phone open. I could also attach a heatsink or something to the phone internals to help with heat. I'm not bothered with leaving phone open.