Hi!
I've some questions to you, as I'm trying to run LG G5 H850 without battery. For now, I've passed through a lot of troubles, but finally I'm in the point where:
- I'm using a 3.9V DC power supply with max 5A current(it's more than enough)
- I've soldered wires directly to the pins, where battery should be connected. Here is graphic of the pinout:
[ ] [ ] [ ] [ ]
If you read it correctly, the battery facing UP(on the left you should have a VCC +), I've soldered a resistor with 70k Ohm resistance, just to "fake" the battery BSI pin, and I've did it between GND and the inner pin which is the closest to it(after measures made on 2 old batteries).
- Without resistor phone wouldn't even boot, he was just dead. Resistor just let me boot my phone, but after some time(its not constant) the phone just pops the window with "Incorrect battery" and is just turning OFF. I've tried all tutorials on the internet, which told about clearing Cache and all those things. but it doesn't help anyway.
Have you some ideas?
I've measured all resistances, and I know, that there are 4 pins on battery. Two, that are the outside ones, are the GND and VCC. Two inner pins are BSI, which tells information about battery to phone, and second one is telling about temperature. Between GND and closes inner pin I've soldered 70k Ohm(after measures it was the average resistance of 2 batteries), and between GND and the inner pin, that is closest to VCC there is 120k Ohm, but it is just showing just on one direction(on my multimeter, i mean i need to place correcty red and black wires to see the resistance). Not sure if there are diodes or capacitors.
Maybe you know about some tips to just delete the file that is used to check battery( maybe in Lineage OS there is one option?).
I really dont know what could i do more,.
Hi, the first thing I can think about is trying to disassemble a battery, remove the Li-Ion cell and keep any circuit soldered to the connector. Then I would wire the power supply where the lithium cell was wired, solder the disassembled battery connector to the phone and try to run the phone.
I've never tried to do that, so maybe is hard to do that, but this is what I would try to do if I had your problem.
Related
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
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So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LZt4pW97P8
mtucker said:
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
i_max2k2 said:
This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Current Widget https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&feature=search_result For Samsung phones, it will display the current *10 until you dig into the menu and use the divide option to tell it to divide by 10.
My GSII would just barely charge with 500mA (screen and GPS on) so I wasn't surprised that the Note can't keep up with 500mA.
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This makes sense as a lithium ion charging circuit should charge quickly to 80 percent and trickle thereafter. Remember that the chargers ability to supply a large amount of current does not mean the phone will consume it; the charging circuit will only draw what it was designed to draw.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
Right. The charging process goes from constant current mode to constant voltage mode (voltage stops near 4.2V and the current drops to keep the voltage the same) somewhere around 80-90% of full charge.
Nice discussion here. I followed the Youtube link in the second discussion and created a short USB cable with the short. Works perfectly.
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together.
Anyways, I can't return it since I already modded it...
I somehow managed it to pull .7 amps using a modded data cable (only if I let the spring contact that touches the inside perimeter of the lighter port touch the metal housing of the USB socket, .5 amps if not touching) but that's all I can do. Voltage is the same between the wall stock wall charger vs car charger @ ~4V.
Is there anything else I can do?
Isn't the charger that came with the Samsung official Galaxy Note Car Dock gives out 1A already?
I saw the Car charger output is 1A and the pin should be shorted already, since there is no "sync" capability.
hyukki said:
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together............
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
mtucker said:
Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the inductor in mine is very flimsy and does not have the black cover around it. It literally is being held in place by the two leads of the wire coiled around the ring. I'll probably end up ordering a different plug. Or invest 11 dollars for the one that comes with the iPod cable. Although I'm not really complaining with .7 amps, since at least it doesn't let the battery drain as fast.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean 4000 to 9000 ma or 4A - 10A over usb? (this seems a little high for usb most chargers are 500 ma (0.5A) to 2A)
I think it is probably more like 400-1000ma (0.4 to 1A) [which sounds more reasonable for usb]
Hey all i am wondering if it will do just fine if i hook up the USB 5v/gnd to the pins on the back where the battery pins would go?
On the battery itself it says:
(4 pins )
HTML:
[][][][]
- +
However, the battery is rated 3.8vdc so i wanted to make sure it wouldn't blow something giving it 5v in that area.
And i am guessing the first 3 pins are all ground pins? And the last (4th) pin is the positive?
you will not burn it, because battery on 100% is 4,3 V. But i think it will not work, cause battery has electronics on 3rd and 4th pins
You cannot just apply current to the battery directly. It has to go through the charging circuitry of the phone first. Otherwise, you will blow up the battery.
I'm not also keeping the battery there. There will be no battery hooked up at the same time.
well, as i said it will not damage the phone, but phone will not work. Try, if you have time
i know it worked on sonyericsson T100
I want to make a bike charger for my S3. I made sure the converter is working and can deliver more than 2A of constant current at 5V.
As long as the phone does not detect the converter as a proper charger, it won't draw more than 500mA which is not enough to maintain charge while navigating or using apps. I have tried to measure out the charger that came with the phone and found out that the data lines are shorted. Apart from this, there seems to be no connection from the data lines to the supply voltage. I tried to replicate this on my selfmade charger but still the phone won't draw more than 500mA. I tried searching the net for info on the charging circuit but can't seem to get anywhere. I would like avoid cracking open the original charger.
Does anyone here have an idea what has to be done so the phone will draw more current from a homemade charging device?
you can always get a Kernel with charging control and up the amperage, but that's more of a workaround
There's a reason why i don't like workarounds like this. It violates usb specifications and may lead to damage to a regular usb port if handled improperly. It may be possible that i am missing something. Maybe i'll get another original charger and dig deeper into this matter. I'll post results as soon as available
Noume said:
I want to make a bike charger for my S3. I made sure the converter is working and can deliver more than 2A of constant current at 5V.
As long as the phone does not detect the converter as a proper charger, it won't draw more than 500mA which is not enough to maintain charge while navigating or using apps. I have tried to measure out the charger that came with the phone and found out that the data lines are shorted. Apart from this, there seems to be no connection from the data lines to the supply voltage. I tried to replicate this on my selfmade charger but still the phone won't draw more than 500mA. I tried searching the net for info on the charging circuit but can't seem to get anywhere. I would like avoid cracking open the original charger.
Does anyone here have an idea what has to be done so the phone will draw more current from a homemade charging device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The key in shorting out the data lines to achieve FAST charge rate is that the Phone sees it as shorted at the Micro Usb connection point of the phone. Anywhere else down the line is irrelevant. Depending on the Kernel, most phones slow down the charging rate after...hmmm...anywhere between 70-100%. The closer to full charge...the slower the charge rate gets...until it becomes a trickle charge...just in case you don't know.
If your still having issues, please post back with a more detailed explanation of your wiring and parts as best as you can and I will help you with it.:good:
[Solved] Charger for S3
Considering your suggestions i was asking myself if i've done everything right and as it turned out, i hadn't.
I do know that chargers current depends largely on the charging state of the battery. Good chargers start initiate completely drained batteries with a low current, which is ramped up to the max at around 5-10%. After reaching 85-90% the current drops down to small trickle pulses as the charging finishes. These values can be adjusted within the firmware/kernel to get a longer battery life/more power. That's why i always do charging tests with a battery that is at least down to 33%.
But back to topic now
Using an oscilloscope i found my switching regulator to have about 150mV ripple voltage which apparently is a bit more than the S3 is willing to take. After sorting it out, ie. resoldering a cold joint, it finally works as expected, the ripple voltage is now around 32mV. The regulator could deliver more than 2A before, but only with about 600mV ripple, which i unfortunately overlooked
Charging the phone's completely drained battery, i get around 320-340mA current draw from the battery(12Vnom LiFePO4) .
The phone takes around 950mA at 5.1V. I wonder why earlier charging circuits had to be so "complicated" like with Apple phones or Galaxy Tab, while most newer phones are happy with just shorted data lines.
The circuit i use is composed of a three-phase voltage doubling rectifier, that takes bike from a generator hub in the front wheel. This one is connected to a battery for storage and buffering. A small switching regulator provides 6V 600mA for the lighting system. A larger LM2596-based regulator (you can get those modules around $1.50) provides power for my S3 and a microcontroller that will later be used for monitoring the systems voltages and rotational speed of the front wheel. EAGLE layout files for circuit and PCB will be finished soon.
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Given the Gear S w/ cradle only has 300mah + 300mah battery to charge, any cell phone charger with microUSB will work. Even a PC USB port should work. I didn't even bother take the original AC charger out of the box. Using my alarm clock's USB port for charging every day even when it is totally dead without problem. So, anything with a USB port will work. You don't need to buy the original AC adapter.
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
You guys got a charging cord and adapter?
BAD ASS NOTE 4 + BAD ASS GEAR S
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
alanshortt said:
.....but could you theoretically or actually damage the cradle charger (or less likely i guess, the device itself) if you connected it to a charger with too high an output ?
eg i heard conflicting reports about whether it was safe to use the "wrong" charger for my various MacBooks - these might have anything from 45 - 65 -85w output etc - if i left the proper charger at work could i use any charger lying around at home with the same "magsafe" connecter ?
I was told don't do that versus don't worry the device will only draw the current it needs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. USB chargers output the same voltage (5V) and varies in current output capability. The adapter won't/can't output more current than the other end (your cradle) requested for. The only time it won't work is if your device need more amperage for charging and the adapter can't supply that much, e.g. a lot of cell phones requires 1000+ ma of amperage for charging but a lot of generic USB chargers can only output 500ma. This results in not able to charge when battery is almost dead.
As mentioned above, the watch has a tiny battery and only requires very little current for charging.
The official AC adapter for watch is labeled 5V 700ma.
Foxbat thx to the answers!
psicolizzard said:
Guys I lost my Gear's charger, not the cradle. Until I buy a original charger I will use a secondary charger. But for this I need to know the output of charger. Please, anyone could help me? REGARDS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wall wart for the Gear S says 5vdc at 0.7 amps. I have used other chargers though, computer usb comes to mind, just use a usb to micro usb cable.
I have a meter, and can check the pins for power on the cradle, if that would help.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using XDA Free mobile app
drjosephkim said:
Does anyone know how the charging pins on the Gear S are configured?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
chemman said:
Looking at the pins with them at the bottom of the cradle, micro USB on the right counting 12345
Pin 1 is +5 volts DC
Pin 4 is Negative ground
Pretty darn sure, measured it about 5 times and every other way possible. Same result every time.
If you were looking at the back of the watch then counting the pads 12345
pad 2 is Negative
Pad 5 is 5 volts DC
edited to add pad configuration
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
calinormy said:
Please post a photo with cradle and the pins order....it's more simple to understand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As this thread helped me when I missed my cradle for charging, I uploaded a photo for clarification.
The pads at the back of the watch are counted 12345 from left to rigth when holding the watch with SAMSUNG bottom side and SIM card slot on top. See attached jpg.
To avoid electrical damage to the watch, I put some transparent tape over the pads first. Then I carefully scratched little holes through the tape for pad 2 and 5.
Then I was able to charge the Gear S just with holding red and black wires from an old cutted USB cable on these pads (black 2 and red 5).
Next step would be to find a clever way for fixing the tiny wires on these micro pad spots while charging.
I tried with a clothespin and it took ages until it finally stayed fixed. Had to take watch out of the wrist band for this.
Fixing with tape didn't work at all.
Chears, Ulle
You guys mention "mini USB" on the charger cable. My Gear Fit2 came with the cradle hard wired and USB plug in. Are there various charge cradle options for the Fit2?
Pins pictures.
Calinormy you saved my gear S thanks.
Hello
I need to solder charging wires directly to my motherboard in a Nexus 7 2012- I put it into my car and I just don't have enough space for the USB plug.
So here is what I have done now:
The brown wire is +5V and I will solder the GND wire somewhere, but the real question is, which pins should I short? I heard shorting D+ and D- can help with my slow charging but I have no idea which pins these are on the picture. Can someone tell me which ones to short with a solder blob? Right now the connection I made draws 0.8A of current.