Where are the test points located on the motherboard? - Nokia 1 Questions & Answers

Hi, I recently flashed an incorrect preloader and the device is now bricked and since this is an MTK device, i can restore it by knowing where the test points are located, please if anyone knows what the test point is, please post an image, thank you in advanced...

You can't use this method for MTK devices.
You just connect your device to your PC in download mode. Usually the device would be already in download mode, or if it isn't just press (VOL UP + VOL DOWN + POWER) simultaneously and it should boot to download mode.
To unbrick your device you'll need:
Stock ROM of your device.
SP Flash Tool.
Your device specific Scatter File (Can be included in the ROM, but if it isn't you'll have to search for it. If you can't find it then you're out of luck)
MTK driver (VCOM)
If you got all of the above. Then load the scatter file into SP flash tool and flash it in download mode. Then flash your stock ROM.
Now idk where you can find your device scatter file, maybe someone with the same device can make one for you here on the forums.
Goodluck.

XDHx86 said:
You can't use this method for MTK devices.
You just connect your device to your PC in download mode. Usually the device would be already in download mode, or if it isn't just press (VOL UP + VOL DOWN + POWER) simultaneously and it should boot to download mode.
To unbrick your device you'll need:
Stock ROM of your device.
SP Flash Tool.
Your device specific Scatter File (Can be included in the ROM, but if it isn't you'll have to search for it. If you can't find it then you're out of luck)
MTK driver (VCOM)
If you got all of the above. Then load the scatter file into SP flash tool and flash it in download mode. Then flash your stock ROM.
Now idk where you can find your device scatter file, maybe someone with the same device can make one for you here on the forums.
Goodluck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already tried this, but, since my preloader is corrupted, it doesn't recognise my device...

Hausemaster said:
I have already tried this, but, since my preloader is corrupted, it doesn't recognise my device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aah, you have a dead preloader. Nah you can kiss you phone goodbye.
Maybe there's a way to get to meta mode on your device that's specific to your chip, but if you can't then there no hope for you.
You can follow this thread for similar issue, but note that this is for MT65xxx chips, not MT67xxx. And yes those 2 numbers make a big difference.

XDHx86 said:
Aah, you have a dead preloader. Nah you can kiss you phone goodbye.
Maybe there's a way to get to meta mode on your device that's specific to your chip, but if you can't then there no hope for you.
You can follow this thread for similar issue, but note that this is for MT65xxx chips, not MT67xxx. And yes those 2 numbers make a big difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a multi meter and I don't want to kill it by shorting a pin with +5V to ground and fry something, so, after getting a meter, I'll give it a go...
Also, does the meta mode trigger exist mostly on the golden contact points in this phone, or is it required to take the shielding off the board and short a resistor near the emmc chip? Please try to find where its exact location is if possible... My device has the MT6737M processor BTW

I'm posting the images of the motherboard, both sides, please have a look at them, it might give you a better chance at locating the right one...
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Hausemaster said:
I'm posting the images of the motherboard, both sides, please have a look at them, it might give you a better chance at locating the right one...
View attachment 5350473View attachment 5350475
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a lot of pins here, I honestly have no idea. In most phones it's one of the pins below the sim card reader, however I see 4 possible pins beside the chip to the left too.
I don't think connecting it one by one is gonna do any issue to your motherboard, and I don't think you have any options either. Unless you find someone who knows his sht. I'd try the ones beside the chip to the left first.
But don't be in a hurry, I once burned a phone because of that. Do your research first so you don't feel regret if worse happens.
As you can see in this post just connect it one by one and pray to god. You have to keep it connected for about 10 sec to test if it's detected, and try to keep the cable as stable as possible tape it if you have to. If the flash fails this time this is junk.
If it works then post the results here.

XDHx86 said:
There are a lot of pins here, I honestly have no idea. In most phones it's one of the pins below the sim card reader, however I see 4 possible pins beside the chip to the left too.
I don't think connecting it one by one is gonna do any issue to your motherboard, and I don't think you have any options either. Unless you find someone who knows his sht. I'd try the ones beside the chip to the left first.
But don't be in a hurry, I once burned a phone because of that. Do your research first so you don't feel regret if worse happens.
As you can see in this post just connect it one by one and pray to god. You have to keep it connected for about 10 sec to test if it's detected, and try to keep the cable as stable as possible tape it if you have to. If the flash fails this time this is junk.
If it works then post the results here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, thanks for this valuable information, I will try it as soon as I get a multimeter, as I can't trust myself, and to prevent any frying as you said...
Edit: Just curios, is it required for it to be kept connected for 10 seconds for it to get detected, for example, if I short the pin for a second or two, will it not show up even if it's the correct point, right?

I tried all the small contact points, but, it didn't connect to the PC, I found out that the larger contact points have a voltage in them, so, I tested every small point and thankfully they were no shorts, the sad news is that it didn't show up in the PC, I kept it connected for 10 seconds on each point and my ground was the SIM slot shield (i think it's correct, because there were no markings on the board giving indication to a ground point), and one more thing I notices is that, when I connect the phone with the battery in to a charger or PC, it starts to get warm...(the board)
Also, do you know anyone who knows how to find this point, (if so, ask them about this..) I'm starting to think that the test point is under the board shielding, and if it is actually under it, it isn't a good idea for me to short random points without confirmation...

Hausemaster said:
I tried all the small contact points, but, it didn't connect to the PC, I found out that the larger contact points have a voltage in them, so, I tested every small point and thankfully they were no shorts, the sad news is that it didn't show up in the PC, I kept it connected for 10 seconds on each point and my ground was the SIM slot shield (i think it's correct, because there were no markings on the board giving indication to a ground point), and one more thing I notices is that, when I connect the phone with the battery in to a charger or PC, it starts to get warm...(the board)
Also, do you know anyone who knows how to find this point, (if so, ask them about this..) I'm starting to think that the test point is under the board shielding, and if it is actually under it, it isn't a good idea for me to short random points without confirmation...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The meta mode isn't available in all boards, it's found only in specific types of boards and the manufacturers use it to download their firmware.
If you can't find it, then it's probably not existent in this motherboard.
Try asking around on the forums, maybe someone else can help, make a new thread, search for more specific details about the MT67xxx or your device board, ask around in phone shops. You'll figure it out.
Sorry for not being of much help.

XDHx86 said:
The meta mode isn't available in all boards, it's found only in specific types of boards and the manufacturers use it to download their firmware.
If you can't find it, then it's probably not existent in this motherboard.
Try asking around on the forums, maybe someone else can help, make a new thread, search for more specific details about the MT67xxx or your device board, ask around in phone shops. You'll figure it out.
Sorry for not being of much help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'll give up on it, since, the voltage regulation circuit (in the board) gets stupidly hot if the battery is connected, and I now I remember the exact reason why it died, I flashed a GSI image from fastboot and left it there in fastboot and the screen was on probably the entire night, and in morning when it was dead I thought it was so flash tools fault, but, it wasn't, so, yeah, that's the end of to device for me, I guess

Hausemaster said:
YoI think I'll give up on it, since, the voltage regulation circuit (in the board) gets stupidly hot if the battery is connected, and I now I remember the exact reason why it died, I flashed a GSI image from fastboot and left it there in fastboot and the screen was on probably the entire night, and in morning when it was dead I thought it was so flash tools fault, but, it wasn't, so, yeah, that's the end of to device for me, I guess
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should disconnect the battery while doing this, if you change your mind in the future.

XDHx86 said:
You should disconnect the battery while doing this, if you change your mind in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, but I think my board doesn't have meta mode, because even the imei fix tools weren't able to get this in meta mode when it was alive, and also, I didn't search for test points when the battery was in the device...

Hausemaster said:
Okay, but I think my board doesn't have meta mode, because even the imei fix tools weren't able to get this in meta mode when it was alive, and also, I didn't search for test points when the battery was in the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try sending it to Nokia service center, if they say they can fix it, then it means there is still hope at least.

XDHx86 said:
Try sending it to Nokia service center, if they say they can fix it, then it means there is still hope at least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay,..

Just curios, do MTK phones with a dead preloader become extremely hot if the battery is tried to charge on it?

Should I connect the points with 0v to ground? I got a meter and took the voltage vales, I found a ground point, a point with the fluctuating voltage of 0.1 and o volts, then a point with 0.17 volts and another one with 5V, which points should I connect to ground to not kill the board?

Hausemaster said:
Should I connect the points with 0v to ground? I got a meter and took the voltage vales, I found a ground point, a point with the fluctuating voltage of 0.1 and o volts, then a point with 0.17 volts and another one with 5V, which points should I connect to ground to not kill the board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already stated hardware stuff isn't my field of expertise, so I recommend making a new thread with the new information.

There are many points, with some and no voltage, which ones give the best chance of not killing the board, can I connect any points with 0.1v? Or do I only connect points with either 0v or that switch from 0 to 0.011v?

XDHx86 said:
I already stated hardware stuff isn't my field of expertise, so I recommend making a new thread with the new information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, I just wondered if there was any general info...

Related

How I finally fixed the "can't connect to camera" issue on my THL w100

Sometime ago after purchasing a new W100 (THL),
I started having the "can't connect to the camera" message.
It has been debated widely over the different forums, and was always associated to ROM, software, permissions issues and such.
First, I'd like to say that this phone is fantastic value for money.
The other day, after trying numerous roms, and permission fixes, and with no luck,
I was playing with the charger cable (while connected), while the camera app was working.
I noticed that fidgeting around with the cable had influence on the app, freezing it at times, making the camera input flicker etc.
I knew right then, this was a connector issue, hardware, rather then something else.
I immediately decided to abandon the "warranty" procedure and take it apart to find the problem.
There is a little rectangular sponge which was right above the connector, but apparently was not pressing it enough,
so I attached 3-4 little squares of thin cardboard (really thin), in the same size of the sponge.
Re-assembled the phone, and voila!, works like a charm ever since!
I will post some photos later, if someone wishes, but the phone has been working for some time now, with no problems what so ever.
So that's it,
the mysterious "can't connect" issue, SOLVED,
at least for me, and to another phone I had ordered which had the same problem (also THL w100).
Gideon.
cool!
I had a similar problem with my thl w200. I google and tried numerous ways to solve the problem.
But none work. I experienced the same thing like you when I put on the charging cable.
I believe we had similar problem... It would be nice if you can post some pics on how to fix the connector.
Thanks a lot.
I also have the same problme. with my thl w200.
Today i install the app cameraMX and after reboot the camera back to work.
I also glad if you uploud some photo
Added photos of repair
here are the pics as promised...
hope this is helpful:
first, the connector:
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now, both the little thin cardboard pieces and
the sponge which should be pressing enough on the connector:
pieces applied with a little snippet of clear duct tape:
the outcome - u can see the shape of the plastic where the flesh is, bent a little upwards as a result:
Hi Gideon,
Brilliant. Thanks for the pics.
How did you figure that its loose connector?
if I open up my phone, I would guess it's some motherboard issue.
Thanks a lot. I am looking forward to fixing my camera
capcorn88 said:
Hi Gideon,
Brilliant. Thanks for the pics.
How did you figure that its loose connector?
if I open up my phone, I would guess it's some motherboard issue.
Thanks a lot. I am looking forward to fixing my camera
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
Well, the first time I took it apart, I just took the connector out, and firmly in again,
but that didn't "fly" fully, still did problems related to touch/pressure (on the area), so I just decided to thicken that place a bit.
Just be careful with the entire procedure, it's not difficult (far from it), but still,
would be a shame to fook something else
Hello, I'm Italian, sorry for my English is not good.
I have thl w100 and I have the same problem of the camera. My rom is 130912.
I change rom (also cusotm rom), wipe & reset.... nothing I still have the problem.
I tried your solution with the paper under the frame but nothing: "can't connect to the camera"
I have observed the operation of the camera and I have an idea
I have observed that works depending on the battery
I recharged the phone twice using a power bank and the camera is back to work for several days.
Then the last charge came only 99% and returned error.
The error disappears if you restart the phone and the screen does not open before 5/10 minutes.
Then once you open the camera and it works.
Has anyone observed the same things?
Paolorata said:
Hello, I'm Italian, sorry for my English is not good.
I have thl w100 and I have the same problem of the camera. My rom is 130912.
I change rom (also cusotm rom), wipe & reset.... nothing I still have the problem.
I tried your solution with the paper under the frame but nothing: "can't connect to the camera"
I have observed the operation of the camera and I have an idea
I have observed that works depending on the battery
I recharged the phone twice using a power bank and the camera is back to work for several days.
Then the last charge came only 99% and returned error.
The error disappears if you restart the phone and the screen does not open before 5/10 minutes.
Then once you open the camera and it works.
Has anyone observed the same things?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Paolorata,
Your English is all right. I understand what you wrote.
I don't think it has anything to do with the battery.
My camera did work even when it is not fully charged.
Maybe when you charge your battery, your charging cable tweak the connector and the camera works.
I thought I shared my experience in fixing my THL W200.
In the first picture, I removed all the screws and start plying open the casing.
It's tough to ply open the casing. A combination of flat head screw driver and finger nail.
The plastic edges were damaged in the process by the screw driver.
In the second picture, you will see my camera connector.
In the third picture, I cut a small slab from those 3M stick-on-wall sticker and paste it on my casing.
It's quite thick. I mount my casing back. I tested the camera with the casing half mounted.
I wanted to make sure it worked before I mount the casing fully back.
The removing of the casing was quite troublesome.
You also see the power and volume button in the picture.
My observation so far.
The casing is slightly arched like what Gideon has mentioned. The camera works without failure.
But when I put back my sim card, my camera works on and off. Most of the time it works.
I believe it's because the contact point of the sim card is on the motherboard while the end of sim card is on the plastic casing.
This possibly creates a small gap between my sticker and the camera connector.
Possible solution.
Cut my sim card or cut the plastic casing.
Thanks for answers.
I tried to move the usb connection: the first time it work , the second is not.
The only method by which I can run the camera:
1) restart the phone,
2) wait at least 10 minutes without touching it
3) then open the camera.
9 times out of 10 it works.It is also confirmed by some androidiani.it users.
can you try it and let me know?
Paolorata said:
Thanks for answers.
I tried to move the usb connection: the first time it work , the second is not.
The only method by which I can run the camera:
1) restart the phone,
2) wait at least 10 minutes without touching it
3) then open the camera.
9 times out of 10 it works.It is also confirmed by some androidiani.it users.
can you try it and let me know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If by playing around with the USB connection it works, then I would presume you have the same problem as me...,
and the connector is is troublesome.
Guigui96 said:
Sometime ago after purchasing a new W100 (THL),
I started having the "can't connect to the camera" message.
It has been debated widely over the different forums, and was always associated to ROM, software, permissions issues and such.
First, I'd like to say that this phone is fantastic value for money.
The other day, after trying numerous roms, and permission fixes, and with no luck,
I was playing with the charger cable (while connected), while the camera app was working.
I noticed that fidgeting around with the cable had influence on the app, freezing it at times, making the camera input flicker etc.
I knew right then, this was a connector issue, hardware, rather then something else.
I immediately decided to abandon the "warranty" procedure and take it apart to find the problem.
There is a little rectangular sponge which was right above the connector, but apparently was not pressing it enough,
so I attached 3-4 little squares of thin cardboard (really thin), in the same size of the sponge.
Re-assembled the phone, and voila!, works like a charm ever since!
I will post some photos later, if someone wishes, but the phone has been working for some time now, with no problems what so ever.
So that's it,
the mysterious "can't connect" issue, SOLVED,
at least for me, and to another phone I had ordered which had the same problem (also THL w100).
Gideon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Gideon,
I have a crappy connector on the camera, I tried to push it down but doesn't work reliably.
kinetix118 said:
Thanks Gideon,
I have a crappy connector on the camera, I tried to push it down but doesn't work reliably.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey
did u just try to push it down and reassemble again?
or did u put something extra there like i did?
cause at first i just tried to take it out and push back in, but wasn't working good still...
it was only after i put some extra thickness between the connector and back cover was it working 100%.
Tank you so much, for fix the camera for my w100. I folow this steps and fix my phone
Guigui96 said:
Sometime ago after purchasing a new W100 (THL),
I started having the "can't connect to the camera" message.
It has been debated widely over the different forums, and was always associated to ROM, software, permissions issues and such.
First, I'd like to say that this phone is fantastic value for money.
The other day, after trying numerous roms, and permission fixes, and with no luck,
I was playing with the charger cable (while connected), while the camera app was working.
I noticed that fidgeting around with the cable had influence on the app, freezing it at times, making the camera input flicker etc.
I knew right then, this was a connector issue, hardware, rather then something else.
I immediately decided to abandon the "warranty" procedure and take it apart to find the problem.
There is a little rectangular sponge which was right above the connector, but apparently was not pressing it enough,
so I attached 3-4 little squares of thin cardboard (really thin), in the same size of the sponge.
Re-assembled the phone, and voila!, works like a charm ever since!
I will post some photos later, if someone wishes, but the phone has been working for some time now, with no problems what so ever.
So that's it,
the mysterious "can't connect" issue, SOLVED,
at least for me, and to another phone I had ordered which had the same problem (also THL w100).
Gideon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tanks so much, for fix the camera for my w100. I folow this steps and fix my phone, it´s very easy and works.
---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------
Guigui96 said:
Sometime ago after purchasing a new W100 (THL),
I started having the "can't connect to the camera" message.
It has been debated widely over the different forums, and was always associated to ROM, software, permissions issues and such.
First, I'd like to say that this phone is fantastic value for money.
The other day, after trying numerous roms, and permission fixes, and with no luck,
I was playing with the charger cable (while connected), while the camera app was working.
I noticed that fidgeting around with the cable had influence on the app, freezing it at times, making the camera input flicker etc.
I knew right then, this was a connector issue, hardware, rather then something else.
I immediately decided to abandon the "warranty" procedure and take it apart to find the problem.
There is a little rectangular sponge which was right above the connector, but apparently was not pressing it enough,
so I attached 3-4 little squares of thin cardboard (really thin), in the same size of the sponge.
Re-assembled the phone, and voila!, works like a charm ever since!
I will post some photos later, if someone wishes, but the phone has been working for some time now, with no problems what so ever.
So that's it,
the mysterious "can't connect" issue, SOLVED,
at least for me, and to another phone I had ordered which had the same problem (also THL w100).
Gideon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guigui96 said:
If by playing around with the USB connection it works, then I would presume you have the same problem as me...,
and the connector is is troublesome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same model and folow the steps of Guideon, but i don´t use paper i used tape doble face and work perfetly the camera.
It works
Thank you, very useful and helpful! I thought it is a driver software problem since i was running different rom, but it's not.
Thank you! I have a device which one person took me to repair, i tried restore it to official rom then i was looking for a custom rom.. nothing.
I'll try this cause i think it could be the same reason. I'll try soon.
I made a video of how to fix the camera thl w200, w100 serves to thl, w200 and w300. I think also w8.
Good job ... Guigui96, :good:
Hello, I'm Portuguese, sorry for my english.
I have a THL W100 with s/n CFYSGM4W, and had the same problem with the camera ... "can not connect to the camera".
I already had done many experiments, but no results.
I made many donwload on the Net, and I install many rom's on my phone, but no one put the camara worked.
I installed this version "ThL.W100.130912.JBV2.QHD.EN.COM.V01.8P32_V01_MT65892", and with your precious help...
VOULA....
Everything works, the camera to.
Thank you for sharing with us.
Barony said:
Good job ... Guigui96, :good:
Hello, I'm Portuguese, sorry for my english.
I have a THL W100 with s/n CFYSGM4W, and had the same problem with the camera ... "can not connect to the camera".
I already had done many experiments, but no results.
I made many donwload on the Net, and I install many rom's on my phone, but no one put the camara worked.
I installed this version "ThL.W100.130912.JBV2.QHD.EN.COM.V01.8P32_V01_MT65892", and with your precious help...
VOULA....
Everything works, the camera to.
Thank you for sharing with us.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same sn but my fw version is ThL.W100.130912.JBV2.QHD.EN.COM.V01.8P32_V01_MT6589... I have not "2" at the end. Is your version an update? where do i find it? can you give me the link? thanks

[Q] GPS no lock or satellites

I don't seem to ever see any satellites.
I was wondering if there is possibly a setting I could have wrong or if I have to assume there is a hardware problem with the watch. Any advice welcome. I saw Loki's post on speeding up GPS lock but since I never see any satellites, I don't think that has any help. Unfortunately, I don't know how to read the Engineering Location pages. But I'd be happy to pull screenshots or anything in exchange for help.
Thanks
jd
Did you read the post : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2510696
They is a section for 'Common Issues and Fixes & MISC'
it will refered to Daniel Ortiz post on G+ : https://plus.google.com/u/0/111628072657804333818/posts/5UyzcSadTmw
jdommer said:
I don't seem to ever see any satellites.
I was wondering if there is possibly a setting I could have wrong or if I have to assume there is a hardware problem with the watch. Any advice welcome. I saw Loki's post on speeding up GPS lock but since I never see any satellites, I don't think that has any help. Unfortunately, I don't know how to read the Engineering Location pages. But I'd be happy to pull screenshots or anything in exchange for help.
Thanks
jd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tryed getting a GPS lock with a DatA connection. I was having an issue also but once I tried GPS while connected to wifi the watch received the GPS data it needed quickly. Once that happen my GPS was fine. I used GPS status from the PS. To track the sat.
rhineymac said:
Have you tryed getting a GPS lock with a DatA connection. I was having an issue also but once I tried GPS while connected to wifi the watch received the GPS data it needed quickly. Once that happen my GPS was fine. I used GPS status from the PS. To track the sat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried with and without data. With and without airplane mode. I tried following Loki's guide. But no matter how long I'm outside with clear view of sky, no matter which app I use, I never see a single satellite. I'm beginning to think the antenna might not be connected inside the watch.
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thats a possibility. there have been others with ant not connected or bad connections. i backed three ts. the one on my wrist works without issue. the one a gave to my buddy seems to be without issue. i have one more that i havent turned on yet. but whats the chances of all three being without issue. I backed nov std ed. i recieved Dev numbered ed
jdommer said:
I don't seem to ever see any satellites.
I was wondering if there is possibly a setting I could have wrong or if I have to assume there is a hardware problem with the watch. Any advice welcome. I saw Loki's post on speeding up GPS lock but since I never see any satellites, I don't think that has any help. Unfortunately, I don't know how to read the Engineering Location pages. But I'd be happy to pull screenshots or anything in exchange for help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in the same situation as you. One day, the GPS stopped working, until today. I have tried 'GPS fix' and similar apps from Google Play, but none of them seem to work. As you, I think this is a hardware problem, but I don´t know how to check or fix it.
huelvy said:
I'm in the same situation as you. One day, the GPS stopped working, until today. I have tried 'GPS fix' and similar apps from Google Play, but none of them seem to work. As you, I think this is a hardware problem, but I don´t know how to check or fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Others have experienced this. it is a bad connection with the ant. or the connection is broken off in the strap. It seems that everyday there are more and more issues.
I checked the antenna connector inside the watch. Popped it off and felt it click back on, but still no luck.
Found the problem. It looks as though the GPS antenna connector cannot be touching the metal shield of the component right next to it. Of course, the wire comes out of the band directly over this piece and folds over it to reach the connector. Currently I'm insulating it with a torn off piece of paper. If it happens again, I'll try some kind of tape.
The brass metal plug was touching the side of the round black component (vibration motor) ?
I suggested this might be the problem to others with poor wifi and BT reception, but word that came back was that there was no contact. That plug can rotate over to touch the metal !
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
jdommer said:
Found the problem. It looks as though the GPS antenna connector cannot be touching the metal shield of the component right next to it. Of course, the wire comes out of the band directly over this piece and folds over it to reach the connector. Currently I'm insulating it with a torn off piece of paper. If it happens again, I'll try some kind of tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please. could you upload a picture or a small scheme of what you've done? I don´t know how to try to repair it. Thanks.
huelvy said:
Please. could you upload a picture or a small scheme of what you've done? I don´t know how to try to repair it. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're lucky I don't feel like working today. But I take no responsibility if you break your watch more than it was or in entirely new and different ways.
Open the watch. 4 screws.
Lift out the battery
Take out the plastic spacer. 2 screws (Red). Yes, I lost one.
The charger connector lifts straight up and off (Blue). Also, there is some glue or something that holds it in the upper right quadrant of the picture. And the sticker in the bottom right sticks to electrical components on the board below. I believe it may be made to tear if you lift this spacer out but mine didn't.
Here is the guts of the watch.
Zoom in on the bottom left quadrant showing metal of antenna connector touching... something else metal.
I just put a bit of label on the metal something to prevent touching.
Good luck!
jdommer said:
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much! :good: I will try it.
Regrettably, it didn´t work for me. The Truesmart still doesn´t detect any satellite. :crying: But tomorrow I will try again.
Anyway, thank you very much for your help. And I´m sure your photos will help many people who have this issue.
The connector on the cable may also be damaged. I have two with bad connectors, one came off and one is pulled just far enough that the cable does not make contact to the internal points in the connector.
I reopened the watch and try the jdommer´s solution, but the result is the same.
I also have disconnected the antenna cable and I have reconnected several times, but it still doesn´t detect any satellites.
However, the watch has a curious behavior. It doesn´t detect any satellites at any time. However, if I let Sygic working, after 5 or 6 minutes, it detects the place where I am, even though undetected satellites (so I can´t use it to navigate or sports tracking).
That might be from WiFi or cell tower location, not GPS.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
I have same problem. 2 months GPS worked good, but now it dosn't work.
This app solved my problem: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chartcross.gpstest
I was getting 9 satellites but no fix.
What I did after installing the app:
1. Settings>>Datum and I chosed the one located closest to my country
2. Settings>> Clear AGPS
3. Settings>> Update AGPS
4. Got a fix with 5 satellites after 10 seconds from my window. For comparison my Note 8 got a fix in only 2 seconds but it's antenna is a few times bigger than the one Omate has
Followed jdommer's picture guide using a small piece of paper to insulate the wire and my gps works again! Thanks
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

[Q] Phone Gets Hot & Not Charging Or Powering On

Hi folks,
I bought a used SG2 for a friend recently but it’s having some issues…
As soon as the phone arrived I plugged into the PC and rooted it, along with flashing latest stock firmware.
That all went smoothly but as I was setting up Google etc I noticed it gets really hot both when charging and also when in use. It also discharges really quickly, even with all sync and data connections turned off. I’d read about stock JB not being the best so decided to install Resurrection Remix, however was still running hot and discharging far too quickly (also tried with no SD card, just to make sure it wasn’t a Media Scanner issue).
It also drains whilst charging too. For example, last night it got to 92% whilst powered off, then when I checked later it was at 88%... so I unplugged it before bed when I woke up it was completely dead. Now it doesn’t seem to charge at all. This is on original battery and a brand new one…. both won’t charge. I’ve tried different chargers, different cables, different USB sockets etc etc. Also tried leaving the battery out of a while, but all to no avail.
I have just ordered a new USB port from eBay, to see if there is there is a problem charging… but beyond that I guess I still need to figure out why it’s heating up so much evenw hen doing nothing. When it was still powering on, checking CPU Spy tells me it’s not running at max CPU or anything, and Wakelock Detector isn’t reporting anything abnormal.
The phone is currently plugged into my PC but I know it's not charging as it's cool to touch and pressing the power button doesn't display the battery icon.
We have another S2 in the family (rooted and running an old JB NeatROM) and whilst battery life isn’t the best, it can easily last most of the day on standby. It also doesn’t get hot like this one does.
Any ideas what might be causing the problem and how to fix it?
Cheers,
Lee
Take the charged battery from the other s2 in the house and put it in. Does it power up? Go into download mode? Recovery?
andrewwright said:
Take the charged battery from the other s2 in the house and put it in. Does it power up? Go into download mode? Recovery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the the suggestion.
I don't have the other S2 to hand unfortunately, plus as that one is working fine I wouldn't want to risk damaging it's battery in this faulty unit.
I've ordered an external battery charger too though, which should be here Friday.
The ext charger won't go to waste but I'd try the battery first as I don't think it will damage it. Terminal's look OK? Testing should be fine.
andrewwright said:
The ext charger won't go to waste but I'd try the battery first as I don't think it will damage it. Terminal's look OK? Testing should be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably get the ext charger before I have access to the other S2
The terminals look ok, nice and clean... and the USB socket looks a little grubby but no more so than my other phones.
Let's say for a moment that I do manage to get the batteries charged and the phone to power on again... do you have any idea what might be causing it to heat up so much? I did try setting governor to Conservative and set the max CPU to 1000MHz rather than 1200MHz, but it was still getting hot and draining quickly. Again, this is with nothing running in the background, no SD card and all 3G/Wifi etc turned off.
Thanks
Get it running and install BBS . better battery States. See from there what's running in the background.
andrewwright said:
Get it running and install BBS . better battery States. See from there what's running in the background.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah mate, BBS is one of my "first install" apps along with Wakelock Detector, CPU Spy, Root Explorer and Titanium Backup
Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to install it on this S2 before the problems started to appear.
Will report back once ext charger / new USB port arrives
I'm determined not to waste 60 quid on this thing, even if I have to spend a bit more to get it working!
Given that you've tried different firmware and ROMs I think you can rule out software issues. I *think* you're going down the right path by replacing the USB socket/board assembly...... Just make sure you're putting the correct version in......there are 4 non interchangeable versions of this part.....
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
keithross39 said:
Given that you've tried different firmware and ROMs I think you can rule out software issues. I *think* you're going down the right path by replacing the USB socket/board assembly...... Just make sure you're putting the correct version in......there are 4 non interchangeable versions of this part.....
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks bud, hopefully I got the right one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400684001792?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Well.....that *looks* right, but then all the versions of the board *look* the same..... It's the 'rev' number on the board you have to watch for.....
See this guide I created.....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2335961
it'll show how to tell the boards apart......
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
keithross39 said:
Well.....that *looks* right, but then all the versions of the board *look* the same..... It's the 'rev' number on the board you have to watch for.....
See this guide I created.....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2335961
it'll show how to tell the boards apart......
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again Keith, that is an excellent guide! Very informative.
The one pictured on eBay has GT-I9100 REV 2.2 R.B54 B on the board and looking at some other eBay and Amazon items, most appear to be selling Rev2.2 boards.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0098VPOK8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_8Hjotb1JF0Q2Z
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-Con...400688905&sr=1-3&keywords=i9100+charging+port
Here’s a Rev 1.5 though…
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-C...400688905&sr=1-9&keywords=i9100+charging+port
..and a Rev 0.2
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vktech-Char...00688905&sr=1-21&keywords=i9100+charging+port
I notice some of the Rev2.2 boards have different alphanumeric numbers below the rev (like R.B54 on the one I bought), does that make a difference too?
Knowing my luck this model will have a Rev that no one sells! I’ll check tonight after work, so fingers crossed for a Rev2.2!
Cheers
I'm not entirely sure what the other numbers are.....my guess is they're probably batch numbers or something similar......
The important numbers to match are the "rev version" numbers.....
In my experience (having repaired this issue on 2 S2s) the rev2.3 is the most commonly used version....but hey....you might be lucky....
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
keithross39 said:
I'm not entirely sure what the other numbers are.....my guess is they're probably batch numbers or something similar......
The important numbers to match are the "rev version" numbers.....
In my experience (having repaired this issue on 2 S2s) the rev2.3 is the most commonly used version....but hey....you might be lucky....
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well Sod's Law strikes, I have a Rev 2.3
I've messaged the seller to see if they have them, but have also ordered another from a different seller just in case.
Ah...bad luck fella.....it might have worked if you'd ordered a 2.4 to replace a 2.3.....newer designs *might possibly* have some backwards compatibility.... but I strongly doubt that older versions are forwards compatible.
And don't listen if the seller tries to tell you that the rev version doesn't matter.....most sellers aren't aware that there is more than one version of the board, and will probably base their reply on that incorrect information.......
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
Replaced the circuit last night, was really easy. The phones are like Lego compared to HTC!
After rebuilding the phone it did initially recognise the charger, and started to charge the battery however after a while I noticed it had depleted again (charging whilst off). Charging was also extremely slow. It also wouldn't charge properly when switched on... would go up then down again.
The ext. charger also arrived so I've just popped in a fully charged battery to see how it lasts (took forever to charge that too!). Hopefully wont get hot and drain rapidly like before but we'll see.
I'll report back later, but at the moment I'm thinking about cutting my losses and selling it for spares or repair :crying:
The plug on the end of the charger *might* be worn too....this will also cause poor connection during charging......the whole micro USB plug/socket arrangement is (IMO) pathetically fragile for what these manufacturers want it to do......
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
keithross39 said:
The plug on the end of the charger *might* be worn too....this will also cause poor connection during charging......the whole micro USB plug/socket arrangement is (IMO) pathetically fragile for what these manufacturers want it to do......
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Between home and work I have HTC, Samsung, LG and Sennheiser micro-USB cables, mostly new too... so probably safe to rule that out.
The phone has now been on battery for 4hrs 20min, and has only lost 8% battery in stand-by (WiFi on for the last hour or so too), so that's a step in the right direction! Temps seem normal as well.
Also, remember the Rev 2.2 I accidentally ordered before realising that variants existed? Well it turned up this afternoon and it's actually a Rev 2.4! Only difference I can see if the rubber thing is missing from the mic. Might give it a try later.
Thanks again for the help Keith!
No problems fella......
Putting the rev2.4 in shouldn't hurt.... as I said, I *think* there is backwards compatibility....
If that doesn't help, try going back to stock JB again. But this time root and debloat it. That is what I am running at the moment, and this is what I get from a full charge.....
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If that doesn't help.....have you thought of flashing a CM ROM?...the most recent one I tried was Markox89's linaro/sabermod CM11.....good on battery and pretty much bug free.....
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Cheers Keith, that's impressive stats!
Well the phone seems to have somehow fixed itself! Not only did the battery keep going all night, it allowed me to connect to the PC and transfer files, and also charged from the PC whilst the phone was powered on. Tested with the wallcharger and all seemed normal too. Maybe the batteries just needed the boost from the ext. charger to get them going since they were both completely drained?
I flashed Wanam JB but wasn't really keen on the super stock look and feel so then flashed NeatROM JB which is much better.
My friend actually decided he wants to keep his crappy old brick phone but at least now I can sell the S2 in good faith knowing that it works
I'd be tempted to keep it as a backup....I still have my first smartphone (galaxy W) safely stored away for just that purpose.
And from my point of view....I personally would be loathed to part with something that I'd invested time, effort and money into to bring back to life.....I know at the end of the day it's just a piece of tech and an asset, but for me, if I'd done what you've done....it'd be (I dunno) more personal than that......
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right

[Q] P9000 bricked?

Hi Guys,
I managed to brick my P9000 whilst trying to root it.
It doesn't power up at all and even the battery doesn't show when charging (it was at 95% before I broke it).
None of the SP Flash tool versions detect it but it does show up as a MediaTek DA USB VCOM in device manager so it can't be that bad..... can it?
Please help, I've only had the thing for 2 days
vortecks said:
Hi Guys,
I managed to brick my P9000 whilst trying to root it.
It doesn't power up at all and even the battery doesn't show when charging (it was at 95% before I broke it).
None of the SP Flash tool versions detect it but it does show up as a MediaTek DA USB VCOM in device manager so it can't be that bad..... can it?
Please help, I've only had the thing for 2 days
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the proper SP Drivers installed?
Yes, it was working ok when I first tried it. I managed to flash a custom ROM but then decided to go back to original and root it....that's when the problem happened
Ok..... I fixed it!
If anyone has the same problem, you have to remove the back cover, take out 4 screws (to gain access to the battery connector), disconnect the battery and plug it back in.
I warn you, it's not easy!
vortecks said:
Ok..... I fixed it!
If anyone has the same problem, you have to remove the back cover, take out 4 screws (to gain access to the battery connector), disconnect the battery and plug it back in.
I warn you, it's not easy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Too late but....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=66850690
Greetings
Vsrookie
Sent from my P9000 using XDA-Developers mobile app
vsrookie said:
Too late but....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=66850690
Greetings
Vsrookie
Sent from my P9000 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that, I could have done with it a couple of days ago
Taking a brand new phone apart when there's zero instruction on how to do it, is rather nerving!
vortecks said:
Thanks for that, I could have done with it a couple of days ago
Taking a brand new phone apart when there's zero instruction on how to do it, is rather nerving!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Having just softbricked my P9000 - phone now completely unresponsive after a successful flash using SP Tools using a stock image - I'd appreciate a litle help
How do you start the process of removing the back cover? I can't see anywhere to start prying it up...
nephster said:
Having just softbricked my P9000 - phone now completely unresponsive after a successful flash using SP Tools using a stock image - I'd appreciate a litle help
How do you start the process of removing the back cover? I can't see anywhere to start prying it up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a scalpel and slowly started at one corner (obviously between the case and the back cover).
It does take quite a while and you have to be careful where the power/volume buttons are - the ribbon has some adhesive on it which sticks to the back cover.
What I suggest is work your way around by levering the back off with a scalpel (the point of the blade) until you can see inside but be careful, don't run anything under the cover to make things quicker, you stand a chance of damaging the ribbon cables. When it's free, gently lift the case from the opposite side to the power button and you'll be able to slide something in, to ease the ribbon cable from the case. I can only go by my own experience but yours might not have the adhesive between the ribbon cables and the case.
After the cover is off, it's just a case of removing a few screws and a few bits of plastic and popping the battery connector off and back on again.
All the best with it
Tony
vortecks said:
All the best with it
Tony
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers Tony. Fingers crossed! Guess I don't have much to lose...
nephster said:
Guess I don't have much to lose...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the same thing I said
You may find this video useful although I couldn't get it apart with a plectrum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-KxuFfv7rk
vortecks said:
That's the same thing I said
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a mill Tony, and Vsrookie for the tips in your post.
I've aged ten years. Unplugging the battery alone didn't sort my problem, but I was able to get back to a booting, working phone (in bits!) after a lot of back and forth with SP Tools, META mode and installing drivers at the correct times.
Putting the bloody thing back together was something else, though. Back cover wouldn't fit back on properly at the top (turned out, one bit of the fingerprint assembly's lugs on the left was over rather than under the rim of the phone, keeping the cover from snapping down) . Then, while fiddling with this, the ****ing power button fell out, which led to having to figure out how it worked in order to attempt to put it back in.
Long story short, all sorted out, completely stock and wiped, and can now be returned to Amazon - unfortunately I'm frequently getting the dreaded sim tray errors with the SD and SIM cards and NFC won't work with my transit company's app so won't be keeping it... ho hum.
Either way, I'm glad you got it sorted mate. They're certainly not the easiest phone to take apart (and successfully put back together)
sorry to jump a dead thread but im new here and dont know how to make a new one, i have a elephone p9000 and i believe ive soft bricked it, i have access to the battery, my computer doesn't detect it under driver manager (it detects an unknown device(i have the correct drivers installed)) the problem occurred when sp flashtools crashed halfway through flashing a new ROM (now the phone wont boot and is stuck on the white elephone logo and i cant get into recovery) really stuck any help is greatly appriciated
Have you tried a stock ROM?
PS I was born in Boney Hay Road
vortecks said:
Have you tried a stock ROM?
PS I was born in Boney Hay Road
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
awesome about being from burntwood man, yeah i was trying to flash a stock rom when sp flashtools crashed
Sorry mate, I'm not really the person to answer. I was lucky really and I only needed to unplug the battery. I know it'll only be a soft-brick, it's apparently impossible to hard-brick them.
Hopefully, someone will be along with the answer
i managed to disconnect battery and connect my p9000 to my pc, but when flash with sp flash tool , i keep getting brom error : status_ext_ram_exception. can somebody explain to me what should i do, tq
after disconnect battery P9000 doesn´t work
Hello Guys,
I need your help.
I was trying to come back and old ROM of my new ELE P9000 for rooting it. I used Flash Tool (FT) and everything went fine; the firm was formatted and reinstalled and FT showed the "okay" message. After that, I tried to switch on the mobile but it does not work, even I can not open the Recovery System. FT does not recognize the Phone and I can not reinstall a firm; I am afraid it died.
I read this useful forum (thank you for sharing) and I switched off the battery as indicated (I think) but after reconnect the yellow cable of the battery and reinstall the screws and fix everything two times, the phone does not switch on, recovery system does not work and FT does not recognize the mobile and I can not reinstall software. Level battery shall be almost 50%.
I would like to attach pics about the surgery I did and I would like to know if it was done right or not, but I do not how to insert it.
Please, advises/instructios for realive the phone.
Thank you in advance
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ELEP9000 said:
I would like to attach pics about the surgery I did and I would like to know if it was done right or not, but I do not how to insert it.
Please, advises/instructios for realive the phone.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You first need to upload your pictures to a filehost like ZimageZ and they give you code to insert here in the forum.
Trying to figure out the META mode for Elephone P9000
nephster said:
Thanks a mill Tony, and Vsrookie for the tips in your post.
I've aged ten years. Unplugging the battery alone didn't sort my problem, but I was able to get back to a booting, working phone (in bits!) after a lot of back and forth with SP Tools, META mode and installing drivers at the correct times.
Putting the bloody thing back together was something else, though. Back cover wouldn't fit back on properly at the top (turned out, one bit of the fingerprint assembly's lugs on the left was over rather than under the rim of the phone, keeping the cover from snapping down) . Then, while fiddling with this, the ****ing power button fell out, which led to having to figure out how it worked in order to attempt to put it back in.
Long story short, all sorted out, completely stock and wiped, and can now be returned to Amazon - unfortunately I'm frequently getting the dreaded sim tray errors with the SD and SIM cards and NFC won't work with my transit company's app so won't be keeping it... ho hum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sharing the fate here but can you tell me steps how did you get into the META mode (what buttons did you kept pressed while inserting the phone to computer, did you have your battery on etc. Thanks.

Copy system files from one device to another. ZTE Spro 2 projector issue.

I get this message on several spro 2's that I have. You try to turn on the projector and again and again it gives this message. I have a few of these that have the same issue as I buy and fix these android projectors regularly as the fan is common to fail. I pull the actual projector unit out and put it in another known good unit and it works fine. So it has something to do with the motherboard or system files. I have tried to restore the system and it does not help. So either the motherboard has some bad component or there are some system files that do not change even after restoring. I think it is a failsafe thing zte put in to never allow you to run the projector as the fan has quit working.
So I have spent the past few days researching adb stuff. I rooted the device and can access the system folder. So as a last ditch effort I want to try pulling all system files from a known good spro2 and push/write over system files on the spro2 with this issue. Is this possible to do? Or would it freeze up the device or brick it or something?
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Since I have an spro 2 with working projector is it possible to somehow flash all files like a recovery type thing. Then run it in the recover with sd card in recovery mode? Please any help would be so awesome, these things are just paper weights if the projector doesn't work, lol I am not so stupid that I won't figure out medium level stuff, I have been familiar with system level stuff since windows 95. Back then drivers would actually create problems that you had to manually fix, yes I am old.
Yes NEEDED
Did yo ever figure this out? that would be awesome. its frustrating, because i have a $400 paperweight.
metallicahq2007 said:
Did yo ever figure this out? that would be awesome. its frustrating, because i have a $400 paperweight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing yet. Hope someone here has some idea's.
I will be working on this as I just started getting a similar message but the problem with mine is not the fan, the dialog box I get says" the battery life-cycle limit reached. please contact after-sale support to change a new battery. projector will turn off in 5 minutes. this is ZTE using randsomware on their device to extort you out of more money to keep your device running. this is at the moment an unproven theory but is supported by the following information that has conflicting accounts given from different branches of ZTE USA support staff.
contacted ZTE USA support from live chat on the ZTE USA support site. The support assistant told me that the battery needed to be replace and that it would cost 150USD for me to ship it to the repair facility and have them change the battery, I asked if I could purchase the battery as I was fully capable of making the exchange myself since it is no longer under warranty. I was told that under no circumstances would ZTE make the battery available for purchase except through paying for them to replace it, I searched around and found an aftermarket battery for 30USD with the exact same specs and battery connector as the original. (ZTE does not make these batteries, they are Samsung cells as I found when I took the original out which had swollen so much I couldn't close the unit around it while I waited for my aftermarket battery to arrive so in a way cool points to ZTE for making sure your battery didn't explode after it had a fault) I purchased the aftermarket battery and was able to do the full teardown, battery replacement and rebuild in less than 10 minutes meaning they are charging over 250USD hourly for repairs when the techs that do these repairs make on average 12-14USD per hour.
after replacing the battery I powered up the device and the dialog and shutdown still happens. I reached out to ZTE USA on Twitter because it was a weekend and livechat was unavailable on the support page to request the reset code/software/jig that is used to reset the message and shutdown function and was told that no such thing exist, and was asked to send it in for repair if the following steps did not remove it, It was then detailed to me that all ZTE does at the repair facility when replacing a battery was to install the battery, do a master reset on the device and reflash the firmware. I downloaded the firmware from the link on the ZTE USA support site. because it was not labeled update.zip which is what the stock recovery requires to flash the firmware, I asked a support assistant through the live chat on the support site if the linked firmware was the signed zip since it will not flash an unsigned update.zip in the factory recovery environment, the support assistant came back with "unfortunately you will have to send it to us to have the firmware reflashed as ZTE will not allow support staff to send firmware or provide download links to official firmware and that the link on the support site was NOT the official firmware. The support assistant then quoted the same 150USD charge to flash the firmware and not replace the battery since I had already replaced it. I decided to try the flash anyway as if it was not a signed firmware file it would just fail to flash and I would still be in the same predicament. it flashed successfully (proof support staff is lying to get repair orders filled and sold)
I followed those steps, replace battery, master reset, reflash the firmware. power it up, the dialog and shutdown still persist.
what's interesting to me is if there is not a software/firmware reset code, why is there a root application in the google playstore that is capable of resetting this issue?
the developer of the app is charging around 30USD for a permanent reset, but you can use a temporary free reset to "make sure its going to work before you purchase the full reset"
this issue has affected so many people I have decided I will be rooting my device, to find this issue myself, I will then try to build a team of developers to help me create a custom recovery/ and up to date ROM as well as a custom bootloader (i'm not 100% sure but I've seen a few posts that say the bootloader can be unlocked) for this device that will remove ZTE's randsomware without getting rid of the protective features. PM me if you have any experience in development of custom TWRP builds, and Custom ROMS and would like to contribute to restoring the proper function of these devices for everyone that has one.
MotoDefier said:
I will be working on this as I just started getting a similar message but the problem with mine is not the fan, the dialog box I get says" the battery life-cycle limit reached. please contact
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Sounds good! Let me know what you find out. I have wanted to mod the brightness to go even lower, low enough to use at night and not have the fan screaming or hopefully low enough to just stay off so I can sleep with it on.
It is strange you have this problem. I also had the swelled battery on my working spro2 and just removed it and use without a battery, I never get a warning. There are components next the the battery that I would think detect heat. I assume more of them for projector also which gives my error code. So I guess whenever it reaches a high enough temp there must be some chip that can not be wiped by firmware flashes, and it tells the software to not let the projector run. Come to think of it I should open my non working units again and see with my multimeter is there is some difference in them, maybe they are a fuse like thing, when they short to on it sends message to lock the unit down. That would be terrible to use those parts on a good working machine and get the permanent error code when nothing is wrong with it, lol. You know what, I would think maybe if your fuses did go out try opening it again and removing that whole battery compartment, or put tape over those connectors that press against the motherboard for them, maybe if there is no connection from them to the motherboard it will give the all clear and let you turn on the projector again.
My theory for the common swelled battery issue-- I would assume is from the battery sitting in the huge amount of heat that the projector gets to when running on high for a long time. I have my projector upside down mounted to my wall so I can control it while laying down in my bed. When it is upside down like this the heat gets even more, so hot that you can't keep your hand on the unit. A few months after using it upside down I hear a loud pop coming from it, the battery swelled so much that the case cracked open. I now have it all taped up because it damaged all the screw mounts.
BTW I made a full tear down video of the projector if you only made it to the battery part. Not too hard to pull it all apart, just takes a good hour or so.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/3VEwNGeXg5U?rel=0

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