Hi all,
My Z4 has started to shut itself down reasonably soon after booting, usually after starting and using apps and when reporting at high levels of battery charge. (haven't tested at lower battery levels)
Immediately after the tablet won't boot with the screen showing the low battery icon. Plugging the power back in will allow the unit to start up again and it generally runs when connected to power even if it is using more power that it is charging with.
This laptop is stock with the original Battery.
DO these system heavily suggest that the battery is nearly dead or more likely a seperate issue.
I am trying to decide if I should buy a new battery or throw the unit.
Get a battery... if you want to keep it.
Yes, this sounds like old battery.
But be aware, you will have to remove the screen to replace the battery. It is possible (did it myself), but risky to break the glass! Use adjustable heat gun and very thin spudger. (don't use this blue triangle spudger stuff that is offered frequently, this would bend the glas to much)
allofmex said:
Yes, this sounds like old battery.
But be aware, you will have to remove the screen to replace the battery. It is possible (did it myself), but risky to break the glass! Use adjustable heat gun and very thin spudger. (don't use this blue triangle spudger stuff that is offered frequently, this would bend the glas to much)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah that will be tricky. Don't force it.
You can't use isopropyl alcohol either to soften the adhesive as it's a liquid crystal display. Any solvent can permanently poison LCD's if it makes contact with the edge of the display.
blackhawk said:
You can't use isopropyl alcohol either...
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Click to collapse
To be honest, I carefully used isopropyl alcohol without negative effects at the glass edges (without touching the display part). Nevertheless it did not really help to dissolve the glue.
Scraping with a plastic tool did it for me. But there should be a better solution, this was the most annoying part.
allofmex said:
To be honest, I carefully used isopropyl alcohol without negative effects at the glass edges (without touching the display part). Nevertheless it did not really help to dissolve the glue.
Scraping with a plastic tool did it for me. But there should be a better solution, this was the most annoying part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anhydrous Isopropyl alcohol is great for many things but each application is different and you need to use your best judgement when using it to avoid rude surprises.
The sides of a LCD aren't sealed; it's a permeable membrane. The liquid crystal layer is extremely sensitive to solvents. Even concentrated vapors can damage them.
I've built up prototype assemblies with these little buggers... hand soldering fine pitch flat packs is easier The LCDs always go on last.
Be careful...
allofmex said:
Yes, this sounds like old battery.
But be aware, you will have to remove the screen to replace the battery. It is possible (did it myself), but risky to break the glass! Use adjustable heat gun and very thin spudger. (don't use this blue triangle spudger stuff that is offered frequently, this would bend the glas to much)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, just bought one of the ifixit kits, but it sound like I may need a seperate spudger. Will also need a heat gun.
Evil-Santa said:
Thank you, just bought one of the ifixit kits, but it sound like I may need a seperate spudger. Will also need a heat gun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are welcome.
Hot plates are what the pros use but for a one shot deal it's overkill.
Hairdryers air volume is too high to be effective.
Get a good heat gun as they are useful.
If it has a no heat blower setting, use it to cool it off before shutdown.
Otherwise sit it down with the nozzle up. Sometimes the residual heat will melt the plastic impeller on cheaper ones.
Use a piece of cardboard to help contain the heat. Do not overheat the device...
Hi . I need to replace the battery of my Sony Z4 tablet . I live in Greece and i cannot find a new battery in order to do it. I have found battery for Sony Tablet S . Would it be compatible with my Z4? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Related
UPDATE: So, the digitizer I bought developed a massive dead zone. I already contacted the amazon store I bought it from, they're replacing it for me. Why does this matter? Because now I get to update this post with pictures/video! So, yeah, I guess this guide should get a lot more helpful soon.
Update 2: Ok, so, I don't even know how to express my anger and frustration. This girl at work shoved my phone out of my hands and into the leg of a table, completely destroying my phone. So, yeah, sorry, I guess I won't be updating with pictures/video, because the amazon store isn't going to take the screen back now.
Yo, guys. If anyone noticed that I was gone, I'm flattered, since I don't post a lot. But yeah, I havent had my Optimus G in about a month, so I havent been on this forum. In that time, I went through my Second Motorola Atrix HD, a broken Galaxy S3, and even lived through Google Voice on my computer. It's an extremely long story, and kind of ridiculous, so I'll spare the details.
HOWEVER, I did finally just buy a replacement Digitizer and LCD screen, and successfully installed it, and I want to share tips for anyone doing it themselves.
When removing the back, after you've removed torx screws, start prying the back off from in between where the Sim card and MicroSD go. Where the back of the phone and the chassis of the phone are separate is much more obvious in that cavity, PLUS dents/dings from jamming a screwdriver in there wont be noticeable when you put the bay cover back on.
Don't force anything off. Make sure you've removed every screw, unclipped every clip, and removed ribbons from everything you're trying to take off.
Removing the battery is tricky. Be careful not to deform it too much, cause that's dangerous. But there are 2 strips of double sided tape running horizontally beneath the battery. Try to get something between the top one and the battery, then carefully pull the battery off the second strip with your hands. sticking too much stuff beneath it to pry it up is going to cause some trouble, so lifting it with your fingers might be better.
Remove the motherboard. detatch all the ribbons, antennae, everything, then pull up from the left, then slide left and out. This is how I got it out with the least resistance, but there is no science to it. If you've gotten this far, you can figure out how to pull it out without breaking it in half.
Components that need to be removed before LCD+Digitizer removal:
Motherboard
Battery
Camera
Just put them off to the side, you don't want them damaged during the next part.
WARNING! If you plan on saving your LCD screen, DO NOT DO THIS. The high heat will cook your screen and make it unusable. Only do this to remove a broken or unsavable Digitizer+LCD.
Alright, now pull out the heat gun. Alternatively, you can do what I did, and use a hair dryer. Not even kidding, this will work fine, and will be hilarious when you tell your friends about it.
On a high heat, start heating the screen. If you're using a heat gun, just do your thing, you know how it works. Hair dryer folks, keep the dryer very low to the phone, low enough to feel the dryer being pushed up by the air, holding it just high enough so it sort of hovers. (You'll know what I mean when you try it. If you don't, just keep it about half an inch off the phone.) Move the dryer along the edges of the screen, all the way around, thats where the glue is. It should heat up pretty fast.
Using your pry tool, start at the speaker grill and pry all the way around the phone. lifting just slightly upwards. If it's not extremely easy, apply more heat. Work all the way around, then pull the screen off. Be careful, it's likely you'll shatter the screen even more at this part if you're not careful. User Bozwell had an excellent suggestion (post 4), cover your screen in tape, then begin separating the screen to keep from getting glass everywhere. Great idea, Boz!
Alright, so from here on out, it's just reassembling your phone correctly. Piece o cake.
Firstly, put your new screen in. If it came with adhesive, it's up to you if you want to apply it now. I'd think you probably have to, but up to you.
If you're like me, and no adhesive was provided, hold off on doing anything for now. Just put the screen in the hole, and thread the ribbons through.
The motherboard lines up with some contacts on the chassis in a few places, but most importantly, there is a connection on the top left corner of the body, and the UNDERSIDE of the motherboard that needs to be made. I believe it's proximity sensor, but not sure. It's very difficult to tell if its attached, but look at what I'm describing, and try your best to mate them.
Don't forget ANY cables. Like, that's pretty obvious, but even when you're sure you didnt forget any, check again. The camera's ribbon is underneath the screen's, don't forget that one. I reassebled the whole thing, everything was working perfectly, except I no longer had any mobile connection. I couldn't imagine what I'd broken, since that's a whole different area, but going to phone status and checking my signal strength revealed I forgot to reconnect the white antennae (status showed my signal at -200,000 dbm). So, double check, because the more often you have to reopen your phone, the more flimsy it's going to get.
Alright, screw the plastic shielding back on, reconnect your battery, then flip the phone to be face up. Power it on, test the screen to make sure it's functional. If all is well, power off and glue the screen in. What I did, and I welcome anyone to tell me a better glue type or method, is plain ol Super glue along all the edges where the old glue was. Press it in, flip it over, and while it's drying, finish reassembling the phone (should just be make sure everything is screwed in inside, then put back glass back on.
If your screen wasn't functional, I guess try to get it replaced by whoever you bought it from, and leave your phone disassembled for when it gets to your house.
Alright, that's pretty much the thick and thin of it, it genuinely isn't that hard of a replacement. I've done a number of digitizer/lcd replacements, not bad at all. I hope this helped anyone stuck or wondering about anything. This video can be used as a rough example, but it goes really fast.
Good Luck!
replacement of lcd/digitzer
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
gruiz3 said:
the removal was a nightmare for me. It was hilarious when the glass cracked it was exploding into a million little bitty pieces. I didnt use much heat, and there lied my problem. But yeah mine cracked in a way that it was completely unresponsive.
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Click to collapse
Haha that's crazy, it bothers me how fragile this phone seems to be.
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
bozwell said:
To keep the glass shards from going everywhere try covering the screen in tape before you start.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea, OP updated!
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
MoFoQ said:
So, what would I do if the screen itself is ok and it's just the glass (and digitizer) that is broken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
ripin150 said:
You'll need a real heat gun, I think. You'll have to find a heat just hot enough to soften the glue, but not cook your lcd. Hair dryer method might work if you are extremely careful and very quick, but not sure exactly what the best method would be. Sorry
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Click to collapse
I figured...though I've been eye-ing using the screen+digitizer+front housing if and when they get back into stock.
(digitizer only is also out-of-stock)
Hi Guys
Been trying to google for my answer, bur haven't found what im looking for.
Basically, I bought a heat plate to start repairing the samsung/htc rang.
But there are a couple of pointers im looking for, so please point me in the right direction if this isn't the place, bit I know there's alot of very helpful/knowlegable people here.
1- im getting mixed temperatures of 60-100 degrees Celsius. Is there a limit?
2- is there a time limit to expose the lcd to such heat? As a beginner on stripping glass, im going to taking my time.
Luckily I have about 5 damaged lcd/glass to play with before doing the real thing.
Thanks very much
what is your plan?
aFrI said:
what is your plan?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean?
IM planning on doing glass replacements as I have only done full lcd replacements. So would like to get as much information on the process as possible which I've asked above.
Dibbley247 said:
What do you mean?
IM planning on doing glass replacements as I have only done full lcd replacements. So would like to get as much information on the process as possible which I've asked above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would recommend you purchase a heat gun, and a infrared thermometer. 100C is too hot. You want to keep the temperature of the glass between 75 - 85 C. You will need to frequently heat the glass. If you get the glass too hot, you will damage the LCD underneath of it. If it's not hot enough, the glue holding the glass to the body of the phone won't melt, and you risk damaging the LCD.
This video may be helpful for you:
Glass only screen replacement on Samsung GS3.
Also, take a look at this picture walkthrough:
Glass Replacement on Samsunt GS3 (w/ pictures}
k-semler said:
I would recommend you purchase a heat gun, and a infrared thermometer. 100C is too hot. You want to keep the temperature of the glass between 75 - 85 C. You will need to frequently heat the glass. If you get the glass too hot, you will damage the LCD underneath of it. If it's not hot enough, the glue holding the glass to the body of the phone won't melt, and you risk damaging the LCD.
This video may be helpful for you:
Glass only screen replacement on Samsung GS3.
Also, take a look at this picture walkthrough:
Glass Replacement on Samsunt GS3 (w/ pictures}
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, ive actually bought one of those lcd stripping machines, so you set the temperature and clamp the glass/lcd down and use wire to cut through.
I was wondering if I had the temperature set at 75, can a prolonged period of time at this temperature damage the lcd? As we know, when first starting it can take time.
Thanks for the links etc!
It shouldn't damage it if you keep the heat steadily at 75. It will be low enough that it will melt the glue, but it won't damage the LCD.
k-semler said:
It shouldn't damage it if you keep the heat steadily at 75. It will be low enough that it will melt the glue, but it won't damage the LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant, thanks for that. The machine does vary by 5 degrees, so will keep it at 70 and see how that goes.
Thanks for the input everyone
Much appreciated! !!
Dropped z2 yday ;/ it was one of my frenchies who jumped on me, phone fall first on screen, than on back glass and finaly landed in dogs water bowl. took it out right away, screen ok, back glass broken and no visible sign of any water entered.
I want to replace the broken glass deck, but to make it so that phone will still be wateproof.. Anyone have any experiance with that? If so, where did you order back glass and did it come with adhesive coating ..?
Thanks for all answers!
102
aawawa said:
Dropped z2 yday ;/ it was one of my frenchies who jumped on me, phone fall first on screen, than on back glass and finaly landed in dogs water bowl. took it out right away, screen ok, back glass broken and no visible sign of any water entered.
I want to replace the broken glass deck, but to make it so that phone will still be wateproof.. Anyone have any experiance with that? If so, where did you order back glass and did it come with adhesive coating ..?
Thanks for all answers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got mine off of eBay. You need the back glass and new adhesive.
Phone won't be as waterproof anymore, but I've dipped my phone in the sink fora few seconds without harm.
http://iphoneno.com/categories/Sony-Mobile-Part/Xperia-Z2-Parts/
mariosraptor said:
http://iphoneno.com/categories/Sony-Mobile-Part/Xperia-Z2-Parts/
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Does this come with adhesive and would you know how if we can retain nfc? I heard changing the back you lose NFC...
Thanks.
It comes with adhesive. But nfc antenna must be unglued from the old back glass. To do that you have to heat up the glass very well so it won't break or torn off.
Heat up the old glass i mean.
hey guys , did anyone succeeded to buy original back glass , and after that phone is again waterproof ? cos some people told me that doesnt matter what back cover i buy even with adhesive , the phone wont be waterproof , only sony can repair it for waterproof again. is that true ?
No man
There are adhesive on the back of glass dont mention about it
You could either buy the plate AND the adhesive thingy (comes separately). Or go my way (slightly risky).
The stock glass plate keeps breaking so I took the measurements and made an Aluminium plate. Then drilled camera holes into it and painted it. Then came the tricky part. I stuck the plate into place using regular epoxy (waterproof) adhesive. You have to be very careful while doing the last part because of obvious reasons tho.
The problem with the adhesive thingy that you get to buy (And also the one that Sony uses in the device) is that although its water proof, it isn't heat resistant. and as we all know how Sony phones heat, the adhesive comes off.
MindfreakBS said:
You could either buy the plate AND the adhesive thingy (comes separately). Or go my way (slightly risky).
The stock glass plate keeps breaking so I took the measurements and made an Aluminium plate. Then drilled camera holes into it and painted it. Then came the tricky part. I stuck the plate into place using regular epoxy (waterproof) adhesive. You have to be very careful while doing the last part because of obvious reasons tho.
The problem with the adhesive thingy that you get to buy (And also the one that Sony uses in the device) is that although its water proof, it isn't heat resistant. and as we all know how Sony phones heat, the adhesive comes off.
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Click to collapse
This is very creative and I sure as hell would like to try my hand at it. How thick was the aluminum?
I bet your phone becomes hot as an iron when gaming haha, which is good for your internals because of better heat dissipation. Any adverse effects on mobile reception? wifi? bluetooth? guess NFC is gone haha
ice_lander said:
hey guys , did anyone succeeded to buy original back glass , and after that phone is again waterproof ? cos some people told me that doesnt matter what back cover i buy even with adhesive , the phone wont be waterproof , only sony can repair it for waterproof again. is that true ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I given my z2 to friend to replace battery and few days ago I left my phone in silk for 10 minutes, because it was dirty and no issue here.
@MindfreakBS
What are NFC and Cell reception like since installing the aluminium back plate?
Any deterioration in signal strength / call quality / WiFi / Bluetooth?
Pixelado said:
This is very creative and I sure as hell would like to try my hand at it. How thick was the aluminum?
I bet your phone becomes hot as an iron when gaming haha, which is good for your internals because of better heat dissipation. Any adverse effects on mobile reception? wifi? bluetooth? guess NFC is gone haha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aluminium is a millimetre thick. It does get hot, yeah.
Mobile reception is same (Maybe a tad bit lower, idk), wifi bluetooth work fine. NFC still intact. I fixed it onto the plate in position.
@rubiicon59 that should answer your question too
I was planning to post a tutorial. Haven't been able to take out enough time though.
How about a pic...
MindfreakBS said:
Aluminium is a millimetre thick. It does get hot, yeah.
Mobile reception is same (Maybe a tad bit lower, idk), wifi bluetooth work fine. NFC still intact. I fixed it onto the plate in position.
@rubiicon59 that should answer your question too
I was planning to post a tutorial. Haven't been able to take out enough time though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've asked about the pic for a long time:crying::silly:
MindfreakBS said:
Aluminium is a millimetre thick. It does get hot, yeah.
Mobile reception is same (Maybe a tad bit lower, idk), wifi bluetooth work fine. NFC still intact. I fixed it onto the plate in position.
@rubiicon59 that should answer your question too
I was planning to post a tutorial. Haven't been able to take out enough time though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What if I want to use a 2-mm thick acrylic as my black plate? Is it possible? Because I am afraid that it will exceed the metal frame of the phone and it will ended up looking terrible:crying:
I agree, I think 1.0mm would be more suitable.
At 2mm, you might get an M4 Aqua kind of look hahaha
aawawa said:
Dropped z2 yday ;/ it was one of my frenchies who jumped on me, phone fall first on screen, than on back glass and finaly landed in dogs water bowl. took it out right away, screen ok, back glass broken and no visible sign of any water entered.
I want to replace the broken glass deck, but to make it so that phone will still be wateproof.. Anyone have any experiance with that? If so, where did you order back glass and did it come with adhesive coating ..?
Thanks for all answers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that if the broken glass was the only issue, and you use a original replacement part, or decent adhesive tape to glue them back together, you'll have no problem. I've had the same issue few weeks ago, replaced the screen and the phone didn't experienced any problem when submerged.
Do anyone now where can I get an official or a good quality back glass for my xperia z2, I broke the original one but i don't want to replace with one without any quality.
buy a nice "glue" to fix that..
I have noticed that the rear glass area around the micro USB and sim is ever so slightly raised meeting the side plastic molding instead of being below it like the rest of the glass. I can get it to close for longer rather than pressing it if I place a soft sprung clothes pin clamping the area. I know everything isn't going to be perfect but should I be worried or do you other z3v users notice anything uneven with the adhesive on the back glass?
I have none whatsoever. It could be a precursor to battery expansion. I say that not knowing the position of the battery, rather having a battery expand on me in the past.
The phone is just over a month old plus the battery ends before the sim and micro usb. Even though my phone is my access to the web by using foxfi, the battery drain isnt heavy and it can be left on for 10 hrs+ before 30% active use, for example, from 8:45 am to 7:45pm it just started to creep into the upper 20's. Its "cool" to the touch considering my room can get warm up to 84F because of the open air desktop and tv as a monitor. When Qi charging it is also cooled by a 120mm delta elect. computer case fan.
XPS-Lionel said:
I have noticed that the rear glass area around the micro USB and sim is ever so slightly raised meeting the side plastic molding instead of being below it like the rest of the glass. I can get it to close for longer rather than pressing it if I place a soft sprung clothes pin clamping the area. I know everything isn't going to be perfect but should I be worried or do you other z3v users notice anything uneven with the adhesive on the back glass?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you tried heating it up with a hair dryer or heat gun to activate the adhesive then clamping it?
BladeRunner said:
have you tried heating it up with a hair dryer or heat gun to activate the adhesive then clamping it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I haven't. I don't have a proper clamp so just try some stiff sprung clothes pins with Popsicle sticks to make even pressure.
XPS-Lionel said:
No I haven't. I don't have a proper clamp so just try some stiff sprung clothes pins with Popsicle sticks to make even pressure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would still try applying heat, then just hold it in place for a few minutes until it cools and see if that works.
BladeRunner said:
I would still try applying heat, then just hold it in place for a few minutes until it cools and see if that works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tried your method after my last post and it looks and feels to be holding up well. I had thought about trying it before but I had never gotten around to it because I also wanted to ask around to see if it was normal.
Thanks
Late Update: It didn't hold up. It went back to its original state the next day or so in reference with the original thread date date.
I will try again and clamp it for longer than the 15-20 min I tried at first.
I just found out that the raised portion is now an air gap so it fails the pressure test if that edge isnt pressed down after an hr or 2.
Hello everyone.
I was looking for a non-damaging way for checking if the phone is still watertight with front glass cracked.
I supposed that increasing/decreasing the air pressure inside the phone and waiting how long it will stay deformed would be quite a good idea. (I understand that air-tight != water-tight)
To my surprise, blowing a compressed air into the microphone port causes to increase the pressure inside and deforms back panel, and then stays like this for a few seconds or more. (However I can't simply pump it with my mouth). Related video:
Then I tried to pump it and submerge in water to see where are potential leaking places. Here is the result (starts at 0:10):
It appears that most of the air goes through the microphone port, but there are also bubbles around panel, however the cracked screen seems tight.
My questions are:
1) Is it normal that you can pump the phone through microphone port like this and that the air comes out that quickly?
2) Should I improve the sealing of the back panel?
I'm not going to swim, just feel safer in case of rainy day or accidental splash.
Thanks in advance.
great vid. I'm a little bit surprised when I see the bubbles coming out when you did the waterproof test. I don't think that's supposed to happen.. but I believe it'll survive a rain and other watery splash. anyway does the phone functions normally after that? and how do you improve the sealing if I may know? thank you.
The phone seems fine. So far no problems occurred at all and I haven't seen any signs of moisture.
I assume that the sealing is made of heat-based glue, so I'll try heating edges (as you do before disassembly) and squeeze for some time. If that won't work, it would be necessary to take off the panel and replace the whole seal.